If you dont tighten the drive side cup completely the unit can move a little and the left cup goes on easier . Once the left cup threads have catched you can screw it halfway in, tighten the driveside cup and then tighten the non driveside/left cup. Sometimes when the alignment of the threads in the housing is off or threads slightly damaged you can try to screw in the cup in an alernating matter (1turn left/1turn right aso.) That is of course not the perfect way because the bearings will be shot quickly, but that's relative. When the bb housing is warped then you need luck and/or a bb cutter 😮 Keep on rollin' 👍
@@GaLaxY-1905 every company can make faulty products, it's just how often it happens depending on the company, it usually happens less with well known name brands, but it does still happen.
Thanks for sharing the video. What is the tightening torque achieved by this homemade pipe? Looks at the high end compared to recommended 50-70 Nm torque.
That's a good idea, that threaded tool holding the bb tool firmly engaged. If the spindle were hollow all the way through, I definitely would have shoved a quick release skewer through for the same purpose. This looks way better. I never thought about lubing the inside of the cup. BB shell was so out of square, there were marks on rhe edge of the center shell drive side. That bb ran awful from day 1! It never creaked surprisingly. 4 hours of filing and test fitting with machinists bluing, and all was well. Probably could also have not tightened the drive side cup until the flange bottomed against the shell. All tightening from the non drive side! It's hard to measure exact chain line on the track bike, but probably could get1mm outboard of where it was, or 2mm inboard as it is now. For $20, I got 8200 miles out of the last one despite the flaws!
I would like to report a problem I experienced with the un300: the cable guide screw under the BB interfered with the BB and could not be installed correctly. This caused the BB to tilt slightly. So I installed washers on the screws to prevent interference and solved the problem. Next, after riding only 30 km in the rain, I removed the BB and observed that the steel tube was rusted. I think it was probably caused by rainwater entering through the frame, not through the sealed bearing. un300 seems to be very sensitive to water and the bearing collapses in less than a year. But it is good to be able to test a variety of cheap cranksets.
Thank you for the interesting story. Water often gets in through the holes in the frame. If possible, it's better to seal these holes with tape or cover them with rubber.
6:30 I'm pretty sure this type bottom bracket doesn't have bearing that gets tighter when you torque the bolt more. The only task for the torque is to keep the bottom bracket in place and the actual bearing is inside the tube-like structure of the whole bottom bracket.
That's true with sealed bearings. There's no point in getting them too tight. You just want them tight enough so there's no movement or creaking. More isn't better
I was lucky to find a spare washer thick enough to give a flush fit between the crank securing bolt and the removal tool. Used an old vacuum cleaner pipe over the wrench to get both cups out. Good to know about that left cup issue. Waiting for a UN300 to arrive.
different sizes for a reason, it's for new cranks bike. if you liked this video, share this video with your friends ❤️ it will help the development of the channel! 📈
For what it's worth: The BB UN300 has rubber seals on the caps but the seals on the bearings themselves seem to be pretty crap so if water gets in past the seals or down the frame into the BB shell I think the water gets trapped and rots the bearings out either way. Pulling the bearings off and replacing them with something better isn't impossible.
Your 4 pipes at 0:59 , I'm assuming the 12 point star & the 6 point ones are probably both 1" size, for bottom bracket & freewheel removal tools? The 2nd one from the top though, that is niether one of those, what is that one & what's it for? 🤷♂️ Also, are those 2 basically just wrenches you stuck inside the pipes, or outside the pipe? Are they straight wrenches, or offset, where the head curves off to the side in relation to their own handles? I've been wondering for awhile so I figure I should probably just go ahead & ask! 👍
You're the one wrong about this one to install the Square type is To put it both sides don't tighten the drive side yet because that will result uneven spindle tighten the non drive side first before tightening the drive side so it will align the spindle
Hi, can you tell me how to get the tool you used at 0:52 please. The internal ring teeth are very shallow and damage easily using bbt-22 on it's own as it slips.
Don't use the UN-300. A better choice for a lower priced BB is FSA. I've had no problems with the FSA. Of course I do like the Shimano UN-55 best. To each his own
Poisé pra que apertar tanto? Dá maior medo espanar a rosca do quadro. Eu aperto muito menos do que isso e mesmo assim nunca soltou. E do lado esquerdo menos ainda porque é so um apoio pro rolamento esquerdo. Quem segura tudo no lugar é só a rosca da direita.
@@andrelange9877 o meu central bbun300 no começo ja esperei tal problema descrito no video porem no meu so não encaixo o lado esquerdo pois o direito entrou perfeitamente o lado esq tinha uma trava rosca que no começo não me possibilito coloca-lo todo no quadro e dps d 6 dias usando começou a estralar removi e retirei a trava rosca dae entrou todo e esta funcionando perfeito não sei se o problema que ta no video foi reaolvido mas o meu tava bom o que deu trabalho foi a trava rosca que venho nele pois chega uma hora que o aperto fica no limite do possivel para a rosca do central e quadro.
@@Viagembikevlog Tenho um desse modelo pra instalar no lugar do absolute. Ele veio com o trava rodca azul. Achei estranho pois é uma peça onde eu prefiro não travar nada. Peko contrário, monto com graxa na rosca pra preservar o quadro e não ter dificuldade de tirar o BB quando gastar. Você acha melhor remover o trava rosca da Shimano? Qual produto consegue dissolver essa cola?
@@andrelange9877 man eu eu tirei na unha (kkkk) pois e uma pasta colocada la mas não ta colado, eu não queria usa nenhum produto ou ferramenta muito bruta pra isso pra não estraga a peça nova pois ainda tinha devolução.
@@NiceBikeService youre content is how to replace bicycle bottom bracket, shimano UN300 failure, I would like to know the length of the spindle of the bb.
@@litoramirez4365 The bracket itself is either 68 mm or 73 mm. And the axle has 4 possible lengths. You have to measure the old part to figure out the correct replacement part.
Hoje eu me deparei com essa mesma situação na hora da montagem do movimento central, aí eu coloquei o esqurerdo primeiro aí de pois coloquei o lado da coroa aí deu certinho 🧏🏾♂️🫡
It appears that you removed a 73mm bottom bracket and installed a 68mm bottom bracket. This is the wrong size of bottom bracket for this bottom bracket shell, and is the reason that the non-drive side threaded in so far.
@@NiceBikeServiceSame shit happen to me. Right side easy as butter, left side I needed to do massive strenght to go in. Quality control going garbage too for Shimano.
Najpierw lewa miska prawie do końca gwintu a potem suport z prawej dokręcić i lewą miskę dokręcić do końca Ty zrobiłeś błąd dlatego niechciała Ci się wkręcić lewa nowa miska
ShiTmano >> FIFY. Of course it FAILED. I could see this was CHEAP JUNK the second I got it out of the box, so I took it back. Get a FSA 7420. It has bigger bearings and overall is 10 times better machined. Only $10 more or so. You get what you pay for.
@@xKillYourTVx What? Who? Anyway, I just looked up the bad original BB, it's a $10 POS made in China. LOL. Good bearings should go 15,000 miles easily, unless you muck around the mud a lot of the time.
@@GordoGambler ive read very many bad reviews about the 300 so i wont touch that too. ou suggested the 7420 so i wondered if its still running for you. I will get the original BB-UN55 (the old version they dont produce anymore, but had good quality) probably for now.
❤ If you liked this video,
🙏 share this video with your friends
📈 it will help the development of the channel!
❓ ask your questions
If you dont tighten the drive side cup completely the unit can move a little and the left cup goes on easier .
Once the left cup threads have catched you can screw it halfway in, tighten the driveside cup and then tighten the non driveside/left cup.
Sometimes when the alignment of the threads in the housing is off or threads slightly damaged you can try to screw in the cup in an alernating matter (1turn left/1turn right aso.)
That is of course not the perfect way because the bearings will be shot quickly, but that's relative.
When the bb housing is warped then you need luck and/or a bb cutter 😮
Keep on rollin' 👍
Yup
Don't tighten the drive side the whole way before you install the none drive side..
thank you for your comment! 😘
That's right, there is a problem with the assembly, I don't think shimano produces faulty parts.
@@GaLaxY-1905 every company can make faulty products, it's just how often it happens depending on the company, it usually happens less with well known name brands, but it does still happen.
Its the opposite 😅
Colocar o lado esquerdo antes de travar o direito para não sair de centro e causar dificudade de rosquear essa peça
@@NiceBikeServiceesse problema vem em todos bb un300?
Thanks for sharing the video.
What is the tightening torque achieved by this homemade pipe? Looks at the high end compared to recommended 50-70 Nm torque.
Primero se enrosca la copa del lado izquierdo para que no de problemas al enroscarle. Por último se enrosca eje y luego se ajusta. 🚴🚴🚴.
Ok 👌 listo. 🚴🚴🚴Tuvo que poner la copa de hierro y desechó la de aluminio que es más liviana. 🚴🚴🚴
Cambie el eje de pedalier de mi bicicleta por ese modelo y no tuve ningún problema. Muy buena la tapa del lado izquierdo.
gracias por tu comentario 😘
That's a good idea, that threaded tool holding the bb tool firmly engaged. If the spindle were hollow all the way through, I definitely would have shoved a quick release skewer through for the same purpose. This looks way better. I never thought about lubing the inside of the cup. BB shell was so out of square, there were marks on rhe edge of the center shell drive side. That bb ran awful from day 1! It never creaked surprisingly. 4 hours of filing and test fitting with machinists bluing, and all was well. Probably could also have not tightened the drive side cup until the flange bottomed against the shell. All tightening from the non drive side! It's hard to measure exact chain line on the track bike, but probably could get1mm outboard of where it was, or 2mm inboard as it is now. For $20, I got 8200 miles out of the last one despite the flaws!
I would like to report a problem I experienced with the un300: the cable guide screw under the BB interfered with the BB and could not be installed correctly. This caused the BB to tilt slightly. So I installed washers on the screws to prevent interference and solved the problem. Next, after riding only 30 km in the rain, I removed the BB and observed that the steel tube was rusted. I think it was probably caused by rainwater entering through the frame, not through the sealed bearing. un300 seems to be very sensitive to water and the bearing collapses in less than a year. But it is good to be able to test a variety of cheap cranksets.
Thank you for the interesting story. Water often gets in through the holes in the frame. If possible, it's better to seal these holes with tape or cover them with rubber.
6:30 I'm pretty sure this type bottom bracket doesn't have bearing that gets tighter when you torque the bolt more. The only task for the torque is to keep the bottom bracket in place and the actual bearing is inside the tube-like structure of the whole bottom bracket.
Thank you for your feedback! 😘
That's true with sealed bearings. There's no point in getting them too tight. You just want them tight enough so there's no movement or creaking. More isn't better
which is the extra tool that you use to tighter the bottom bracket removal tool with the axle of the bottom bracket? did you make it by yourself?
0:50 Nice trick with the bolt to make sure that the socket doesn't slip!
I bought one from e bay waiting for it to arrive £4
I was lucky to find a spare washer thick enough to give a flush fit between the crank securing bolt and the removal tool. Used an old vacuum cleaner pipe over the wrench to get both cups out. Good to know about that left cup issue. Waiting for a UN300 to arrive.
don't change anything, I love this channel, bye!!
Thank you for your feedback 😽
Hi, great video, and can you please explain the old one was 127.5mm, but the new one is 113mm, so can you pls , is the chainline be same ?
different sizes for a reason, it's for new cranks bike.
if you liked this video,
share this video with your friends ❤️
it will help the development of the channel! 📈
For what it's worth: The BB UN300 has rubber seals on the caps but the seals on the bearings themselves seem to be pretty crap so if water gets in past the seals or down the frame into the BB shell I think the water gets trapped and rots the bearings out either way. Pulling the bearings off and replacing them with something better isn't impossible.
When things are really bad, it is better to wash the entire bottom bracket at once and, if possible, seal the holes in the frame
Do you know if that model of bottom bracket fits every Triban bike ? Or is it depending on the size of the frame ?
It's not that simple, the size of the bottom bracket depends on the size of the frame cup, crankset and front derailleur
Your 4 pipes at 0:59 , I'm assuming the 12 point star & the 6 point ones are probably both 1" size, for bottom bracket & freewheel removal tools? The 2nd one from the top though, that is niether one of those, what is that one & what's it for? 🤷♂️
Also, are those 2 basically just wrenches you stuck inside the pipes, or outside the pipe? Are they straight wrenches, or offset, where the head curves off to the side in relation to their own handles? I've been wondering for awhile so I figure I should probably just go ahead & ask! 👍
You're the one wrong about this one to install the Square type is To put it both sides don't tighten the drive side yet because that will result uneven spindle tighten the non drive side first before tightening the drive side so it will align the spindle
thanks for the advice ! 😘
動画中に出てたVPボトムブラケットみたいにベアリングのシールが剥き出しのBBは、組んだ後に水道ゴムパッキンをグリス塗ってスクエア軸に嵌めておくと防水防塵になります。
（シマノのBBみたいに確りしたダブルシールじゃないけど）
Hi, can you tell me how to get the tool you used at 0:52 please. The internal ring teeth are very shallow and damage easily using bbt-22 on it's own as it slips.
@@NiceBikeService I can't find a bolt with the right threads that fits, how is the tool called?
What to do when the ring teeth are damaged, can't unscrew it anymore?
What tool did you use to remove the bottom bracket?
Parabéns pelo trabalho ! 🇧🇷
Don't use the UN-300. A better choice for a lower priced BB is FSA. I've had no problems with the FSA. Of course I do like the Shimano UN-55 best. To each his own
thanks for the advice ! 😘
Omni Racer makes great BB Ti and regular. And the you can look at IRD . Don’t know how the original Shimano died like it did.
thank you for your comment! 😘
May I know what kind of green grease you use
For lube, we use thick calcium grease Divinol. But you can look for something similar from other manufacturers
I also keep TOKEN and NECO as they are reasonably good quality .
0:40 what is the name of the wrench that secures that crankset wrench?
mam zerwany gwint w mufie. co robic? support się niewkręca całkowicie.
Very good
❤❤❤
Movimento Central amigo não precisa aperta muito
Esse problema que ele teve vem em todos os bbUN300? Acabei de compra 1 e ja ta chegando nem imaginava que isso ae poderia acontecer 😢
Poisé pra que apertar tanto? Dá maior medo espanar a rosca do quadro. Eu aperto muito menos do que isso e mesmo assim nunca soltou. E do lado esquerdo menos ainda porque é so um apoio pro rolamento esquerdo. Quem segura tudo no lugar é só a rosca da direita.
@@andrelange9877 o meu central bbun300 no começo ja esperei tal problema descrito no video porem no meu so não encaixo o lado esquerdo pois o direito entrou perfeitamente o lado esq tinha uma trava rosca que no começo não me possibilito coloca-lo todo no quadro e dps d 6 dias usando começou a estralar removi e retirei a trava rosca dae entrou todo e esta funcionando perfeito não sei se o problema que ta no video foi reaolvido mas o meu tava bom o que deu trabalho foi a trava rosca que venho nele pois chega uma hora que o aperto fica no limite do possivel para a rosca do central e quadro.
@@Viagembikevlog Tenho um desse modelo pra instalar no lugar do absolute. Ele veio com o trava rodca azul. Achei estranho pois é uma peça onde eu prefiro não travar nada. Peko contrário, monto com graxa na rosca pra preservar o quadro e não ter dificuldade de tirar o BB quando gastar. Você acha melhor remover o trava rosca da Shimano? Qual produto consegue dissolver essa cola?
@@andrelange9877 man eu eu tirei na unha (kkkk) pois e uma pasta colocada la mas não ta colado, eu não queria usa nenhum produto ou ferramenta muito bruta pra isso pra não estraga a peça nova pois ainda tinha devolução.
Whats the length of the spindle of the bottom bracket you install? How many mm?
@@NiceBikeService youre content is how to replace bicycle bottom bracket, shimano UN300 failure, I would like to know the length of the spindle of the bb.
@@litoramirez4365 The bracket itself is either 68 mm or 73 mm. And the axle has 4 possible lengths. You have to measure the old part to figure out the correct replacement part.
based on the old BB, its 127.5
@@carldivine2174 It appears that UN300 is available with BSA threads in lengths 110, 113, 117.5, 122.5 and 127.5 mm.
SUPER SUPER BRAVO 👍👍👍
💁😘
Hoje eu me deparei com essa mesma situação na hora da montagem do movimento central, aí eu coloquei o esqurerdo primeiro aí de pois coloquei o lado da coroa aí deu certinho 🧏🏾♂️🫡
os fios não coincidem, é impossível cumprir
⚠ ❓ ⚠
*ASK YOUR QUESTIONS*
👇👇👇
It appears that you removed a 73mm bottom bracket and installed a 68mm bottom bracket. This is the wrong size of bottom bracket for this bottom bracket shell, and is the reason that the non-drive side threaded in so far.
شكرا على الفديو ياورده
شكرًا لك على تعليقك! 😍
إذا أعجبك هذا الفيديو
شارك هذا الفيديو مع أصدقائك ❤️
سيساعد ذلك في تطوير القناة! 📈
I have same one my cube Analog 26 hardtail 2012 😇
Good
Glad you liked it! 😁
czemu ta miska się nie chciała wkręcić?
Потому что надо было ослабить резьбу со стороны шатунов, накрутить с обратной стороны несколько витков и обе потом затягивать.
Gościu ale masz tą rure do odkręcania i przykręcania
I bought same crap , same issue with the left bracket !!!
Sent it back what a garbage
My condolences to you
@@NiceBikeServiceSame shit happen to me. Right side easy as butter, left side I needed to do massive strenght to go in. Quality control going garbage too for Shimano.
Anything can happen
Де діствти такий болт для каретки ?
@@NiceBikeService так спасибі за інформацію як він себе в роботі показує норм інструмент?
Najpierw lewa miska prawie do końca gwintu a potem suport z prawej dokręcić i lewą miskę dokręcić do końca Ty zrobiłeś błąd dlatego niechciała Ci się wkręcić lewa nowa miska
dzięki za radę ! 😘
👍
Currently, shimano failed the quality control.
Many shimano parts are going wrong, BB, derailleurs and shifters...
Doesn't anyone know what kind of bearings are there?
6903 RS 17x30x7mm
No words equals unhelpful. What are you spraying in bottom bracket. Is that grease? Super lame.
Thank you for your feedback 🙀
Same issue here with the left bracket
どうしたシマノ。
this type of bb are the worst. goddamn it
Couple of mistakes....not ok.🤔
But at the end works ok.
Yes, the main thing is the result
ShiTmano >> FIFY. Of course it FAILED. I could see this was CHEAP JUNK the second I got it out of the box, so I took it back.
Get a FSA 7420. It has bigger bearings and overall is 10 times better machined. Only $10 more or so. You get what you pay for.
👍
thank you! is it still going?
@@xKillYourTVx What? Who?
Anyway, I just looked up the bad original BB, it's a $10 POS made in China. LOL.
Good bearings should go 15,000 miles easily, unless you muck around the mud a lot of the time.
@@GordoGambler ive read very many bad reviews about the 300 so i wont touch that too. ou suggested the 7420 so i wondered if its still running for you. I will get the original BB-UN55 (the old version they dont produce anymore, but had good quality) probably for now.
The breathing and the mouth sounds are freaking me out. Had to mute it.
This is an old video, it's better now🤭