Cool, after 30.000 km on my 12 year old tourney bike, i replaced cassette, chain (with teflon hotwax), crank set, bottom bracket, shifters + cables, rear derailluer, i am now thinking of replacing theses also. Thx for the video. The industry wants me to buy new bike, but i say no thank you. 😂😂😂😂
@@thokar81 That totally make sense new bike won't make you a better rider or give you some new joy in it except maybe ebike but from manufactures point of view it not really matter you buy new bike or constantly replace parts in the old one. Btw lots of people fall into upgrading old bike only to find out that new bike with all that parts would be noticeably cheaper.
@Ayvengo21 that is correct, it depends on personal goals. On my 30.000 km comute bike i learned a lot, so i now assembly a tt bike just from frame and parts. Ill save 3k to 4k euro.
My cones are pitted just like those. I tried to find the same size but I can’t find them anywhere and my hubs don’t have any model number. I did find some replacement cones+threaded shaft+hardware of the same length….. but the shafts are slightly thicker (0.1 mm) than the original. Can I use them? If I do will it effect the bearing size or anything?
@@cheetocatto01 thanks. I was thinking maybe I should buy a new hub and just try my luck at lacing. But I’ll save that for another day. Haha. I bought all the tools and new bearings and will do the repair next week. Thanks so much for his channel. It was really helpful.
Quick release hubs with cup and cone bearings like these should be adjusted with the very slightest amount of play in the bearings. The quick release compresses the axle a bit which will takes out the play. Adjusting this hub with no play is probably why the cone went out like that as it was run too tight once the QR was done up. A hub without a QR should be adjusted with no play. Otherwise good video. I'd probably use more grease in the bearings and grease the axle where it goes through the hub just to prevent rust from condensation but you do you. In the same vein the amount of cleaning is a bit overkill but can't hurt.
O cone destruído é falta de limpeza e lubrificação na hora certa. Também a baixa qualidade do aço do cone. Nas bicicletas da década de 1980 após 2,3 mil km os cones estavam perfeitos.
Had cones, serviced often but!... When I changed wheels for machine bearings it was like a totally different bike in speed and performance! So I changed bearings also in bottom bracket, pedals and head tube. Still riding on my old bike but with new tires and all new machine bearings it became as fast as new lighter gravels.
Great work!!! I have one front wheel like that with both cones pitted, they failed because the cones were too tight from factory. I do not find the replacement cones anywhere.
Awesome video and idea 👍😉. I never looked at the wheel hubs on my bike.🚴 I have noticed my bicycle going slower, and when the wheels spin , there is a slight rumbling. Your video shows what the problem is. I need to repair the wheel hubs on my bike. Thanks for showing me what to look for and how to fix this problem. 👍😉🚴
Hello, I’m from France and they want to sell me a complete wheel, for a 2 and a half year old bike it’s a shame no spare parts, for a poor wheel axle ... Same as the cuve I’ve been struggling for a long time to find a solution ... Great job by the way
A craterização acontece por causa do material das esferas que geralmente são de aço carbono, se antes de usar a bike todas as esferas forem substituídas por de aço chromo isso demora 3 vezes mais para acontecer, e se você usar a bike relativamente pouco, a craterização jamais acontecerá.
I have cheap Shimano RM-80 front hub. For first year I had got craters in hub's cones. May be it was overtighten, may be carbon steel balls. Thank you! I learn something new.
@@NiceBikeService Bike is Jamis Komodo Comp 2015 trail aggressive 27.5+ hard tail. It has rear wheel on through axel with industrial sealed bearings hub. Front is much simpler eccentric front wheel - Formula wheel hub with ball bearings, just like Trek Marlin uses. Because the fork is very simplistic, Rock Shock coil for with dropouts 120 mm travel. Usually on such previous generation trail bikes it's the opposite - front is on axel and rear is eccentric - because for suspension you need more rigid wheel fixation. But front hub was very simple, and upon disassembly I found small groves on hub cones - nothing major tho - just grind it carefully, cleaned it, lube it and it will run many years.
@razzor4708 Mount a shaped motorized grinding wheel in the tool stock and spin it in the opposite direction of the lathe. Once you are down to a fresh race, you will need to polish the surface with boron nitride compound.
Eu coloco graxa chiclete usada para a lubrificação das engrenagens de guindastes que chegaram no Brasil no ano de 1920 e está em ótima condições até hoje . Não tem graxa igual.
That wouldn't happen so often if it was adusted correctly. A front hub with an axle like this should have a tick of play in it when it's out of the bike. Once it's in the bike and the quick release skewer is set in locked position all the play will go away. Same for the rear but just a tiny smidgen of play in one spot will do.
Quand je découvre le nombre de pièces qui composent un moyeu, les outillages spécifiques, moi qui ne connaît pas, je continuerai à m’en remettre à mon magasin de cycle pour l’entretien. En tout cas belle vidéo de démonstration…
Hello. What vaseline is that? I did a little over 21,600km with the same bike, in 2 years and one month. I have used several types of vaseline, one even from Tunap, and it still doesn't seem to run that easily. Cones and balls already changed. About 80% of the parts on the frame have been changed, at least once.
@@NiceBikeService Ok merci beaucoup 👍🏼 Encore merci aussi pour le partage de vos vidéos, je pense que sa aide beaucoup qui débute où qui veulent faire l’entretien de leur vélo tout seul.
Algunos errores comunes al hacer el mantenimiento como el no engrasar bien las mazas el que si fue muy visible ...no colocar las tapas de los balines en fin...
@@NiceBikeServiceis there any reason you’re so secretive about the products you use on your videos? In most of your videos where you go to grab a product stored in a bottle, you intentionally hide the label with your hand; I don’t understand this mentality …
ich mache mehr fett rein und vor allen dingen sollten die dichtungen auch fett abbekommen damit diese den dreck besser draussen halten und nicht hart werden ... beim festmachen der nabe ist es einfacher wenn die schon feste seite in den schraubstock eingespannt wird damit sich dies nicht bewegt bei befestigen der 2. seite und festziehen der kontermutter ... die kugeln sollten angeschaut werden ob diese noch glaenzend sind dann koennen diese ohne probleme wieder genutzt werden ... je nach nabe ist es wichtig die kugeln separat zu halten da es auch bei einer nabe teilweise unterschiedliche kugeln auf den beiden seiten gibt ... ausserdem ist das reinigen mit nem alten lappen bzw mit alten klamotten besser da man damit nochmals sachen wieder verwendet anstatt neuen krams zu nehmen und wegzuschmeissen - ansonsten nettes video fuer die leicht zu bearbeiten naben - schoener waere es fuer naben die nicht so einfach zu machen sind ...
Cool, after 30.000 km on my 12 year old tourney bike, i replaced cassette, chain (with teflon hotwax), crank set, bottom bracket, shifters + cables, rear derailluer, i am now thinking of replacing theses also. Thx for the video. The industry wants me to buy new bike, but i say no thank you. 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the comment, your components have traveled an incredible amount of kilometers
It sounds like you kind of did it already, but in another way
@Ayvengo21 i did clean the components with ultra sonic sometimes. But i desidednto replace everything now
@@thokar81 That totally make sense new bike won't make you a better rider or give you some new joy in it except maybe ebike but from manufactures point of view it not really matter you buy new bike or constantly replace parts in the old one. Btw lots of people fall into upgrading old bike only to find out that new bike with all that parts would be noticeably cheaper.
@Ayvengo21 that is correct, it depends on personal goals. On my 30.000 km comute bike i learned a lot, so i now assembly a tt bike just from frame and parts. Ill save 3k to 4k euro.
Kereeeen.... Apalagi buat pemula kek saya, baru terjun di pergowesan. Terima kasih ilmunya bang🎉🎉
My cones are pitted just like those. I tried to find the same size but I can’t find them anywhere and my hubs don’t have any model number. I did find some replacement cones+threaded shaft+hardware of the same length….. but the shafts are slightly thicker (0.1 mm) than the original. Can I use them? If I do will it effect the bearing size or anything?
0.1mm should be within tolerance.
most likely, it will not be very compatible. in such cases, grind the cone on a grinder or lathe to get the desired size
@@cheetocatto01 thanks. I was thinking maybe I should buy a new hub and just try my luck at lacing. But I’ll save that for another day. Haha. I bought all the tools and new bearings and will do the repair next week. Thanks so much for his channel. It was really helpful.
✊😉
Quick release hubs with cup and cone bearings like these should be adjusted with the very slightest amount of play in the bearings. The quick release compresses the axle a bit which will takes out the play. Adjusting this hub with no play is probably why the cone went out like that as it was run too tight once the QR was done up.
A hub without a QR should be adjusted with no play.
Otherwise good video.
I'd probably use more grease in the bearings and grease the axle where it goes through the hub just to prevent rust from condensation but you do you. In the same vein the amount of cleaning is a bit overkill but can't hurt.
thanks for the advice ! 😘
O cone destruído é falta de limpeza e lubrificação na hora certa. Também a baixa qualidade do aço do cone. Nas bicicletas da década de 1980 após 2,3 mil km os cones estavam perfeitos.
Had cones, serviced often but!... When I changed wheels for machine bearings it was like a totally different bike in speed and performance! So I changed bearings also in bottom bracket, pedals and head tube. Still riding on my old bike but with new tires and all new machine bearings it became as fast as new lighter gravels.
😮oh q buen taller de bmx. .yo tengo uno pero no tan sotisficafo como el tullo. Hoy ví loq haces y aprendí algo nuevo.
Great work!!! I have one front wheel like that with both cones pitted, they failed because the cones were too tight from factory. I do not find the replacement cones anywhere.
Thank you for your comment. Sometimes it's hard to find the exact cones you need. Try looking for a fart axle complete with cones and remove them
Awesome video and idea 👍😉. I never looked at the wheel hubs on my bike.🚴 I have noticed my bicycle going slower, and when the wheels spin , there is a slight rumbling. Your video shows what the problem is. I need to repair the wheel hubs on my bike. Thanks for showing me what to look for and how to fix this problem. 👍😉🚴
Where did you get that big syringe used to grease the bearings?
These can be found in Chinese online stores, as well as attachments for them
Hello,
I’m from France and they want to sell me a complete wheel, for a 2 and a half year old bike it’s a shame no spare parts, for a poor wheel axle ...
Same as the cuve
I’ve been struggling for a long time to find a solution ...
Great job by the way
Makasih ilmu nya Bang.. Manfaat sekali bua pemula kayak ane😂
Vad är för fett/smörjning ni använder till kullager?
Vi använder tjockt kalciumfett för smörjning. Du kan köpa specialfett i en cykelaffär
Um dos poucos canais que não salto os anúncios.
sim, não tenho anúncios integrados)
A craterização acontece por causa do material das esferas que geralmente são de aço carbono, se antes de usar a bike todas as esferas forem substituídas por de aço chromo isso demora 3 vezes mais para acontecer, e se você usar a bike relativamente pouco, a craterização jamais acontecerá.
I have cheap Shimano RM-80 front hub. For first year I had got craters in hub's cones. May be it was overtighten, may be carbon steel balls. Thank you! I learn something new.
isso é certo))
glad to be of service to the cycling community)
Are all bike hubs the same?
Muy bueno su video!
Consulta. Cuál es el nombre de la grasa verde que aplicas sobre la balinera nueva?
8:45 I can relate to that anytime I fix my bike and it's annoying 😂
But this is a real life situation😹
i just smoothed and grind those fractured bearings pathways in this wheel hub cones with manual very round and small grain file tool.
works like new.
super! i wanted to make a video like this too )
@@NiceBikeService Bike is Jamis Komodo Comp 2015 trail aggressive 27.5+ hard tail.
It has rear wheel on through axel with industrial sealed bearings hub.
Front is much simpler eccentric front wheel - Formula wheel hub with ball bearings, just like Trek Marlin uses. Because the fork is very simplistic, Rock Shock coil for with dropouts 120 mm travel.
Usually on such previous generation trail bikes it's the opposite - front is on axel and rear is eccentric - because for suspension you need more rigid wheel fixation.
But front hub was very simple, and upon disassembly I found small groves on hub cones - nothing major tho - just grind it carefully, cleaned it, lube it and it will run many years.
Yeah sure: if you mount them in a lathe, then shape a grinding tool...
Great tip, I'll have to try this as sourcing cones seems impossible!
@razzor4708 Mount a shaped motorized grinding wheel in the tool stock and spin it in the opposite direction of the lathe. Once you are down to a fresh race, you will need to polish the surface with boron nitride compound.
Eu coloco graxa chiclete usada para a lubrificação das engrenagens de guindastes que chegaram no Brasil no ano de 1920 e está em ótima condições até hoje . Não tem graxa igual.
Hola, me encantan tus videos, cómo haces para grabar ?
para 4 teléfonos y varios objetivos
@@NiceBikeService Macro video is high quality. Do you have very expencive telephone?
That wouldn't happen so often if it was adusted correctly. A front hub with an axle like this should have a tick of play in it when it's out of the bike. Once it's in the bike and the quick release skewer is set in locked position all the play will go away. Same for the rear but just a tiny smidgen of play in one spot will do.
You're absolutely right!
👍Perfect! 😁🙋
Thanks! 😃
The best bike service in Kyiv!🙃🙃🙃
😄😄😄
Quand je découvre le nombre de pièces qui composent un moyeu, les outillages spécifiques, moi qui ne connaît pas, je continuerai à m’en remettre à mon magasin de cycle pour l’entretien. En tout cas belle vidéo de démonstration…
Si ....me ha pasado...algunas veces olvidé colocar arandela a los rodamientos....🙃👋🚴🇲🇽
Ocurren las siguientes cosas 😺
Where did you order the wheel axel nuts, do you have a link?
We buy spare parts from a local wholesale store, so we don't have a link
It's very important to have good lubricated brakes. After that you will ride mutch faster. Especially downhill. Thanks me later.
Вітаю автора з новою камерою ))
Дуже гарно
та ніби все по старому? а що там нового?
Nicely done ✔️
thank you! I did my best for you!)))
Excelente video
Thanks for watching! 👍
What manufacturer/product is your green grease please? I use Weldtite Lithium grease which is white, but I want to change it next time. Thanks.
Ottimo lavoro ✌️
Grazie! 😍
Hello. What vaseline is that? I did a little over 21,600km with the same bike, in 2 years and one month. I have used several types of vaseline, one even from Tunap, and it still doesn't seem to run that easily. Cones and balls already changed. About 80% of the parts on the frame have been changed, at least once.
Top la vidéo!! 👍🏼
Peut-on remplacer un moyeu plein par un moyeu creux pour mettre une attache rapide?
Merci de votre attention !
Oui, l'axe intérieur peut être remplacé dans certains modèles de moyeux de bicyclettes.
@@NiceBikeService ok merci. J’ai un vélo équipé de roue en 26 " avec un axe plein et j’aimerais mettre un axe creux pour mettre une attache rapide.
Il s'agit des subtilités du moyeu de la roue de bicyclette, le cadre n'étant pas pertinent dans ce cas.
@@NiceBikeService Ok merci beaucoup 👍🏼
Encore merci aussi pour le partage de vos vidéos, je pense que sa aide beaucoup qui débute où qui veulent faire l’entretien de leur vélo tout seul.
I have tried replacing the hollow shaft to replace the shaft, and it is effective. Of course, you need some washers when necessary.
5:51 Hello spider :D
ж
Очищуюча рідина кольору пива) - це бензин калоша?
ага, Чернігівське 😂😂
Гумі від бензину був би гаплик.
Віскі, звичайно.
8:45 oh yeah!..
😸
Algunos errores comunes al hacer el mantenimiento como el no engrasar bien las mazas el que si fue muy visible ...no colocar las tapas de los balines en fin...
얼마전에 12년 묵은 제 하이브리드 허브 분해해서 구리스 발라주었는데 상태가 더 심각하네요. 야외주차장에 놔둬서 상태가 정말 메롱이었는데 😅😅😅
Is that small spray ethanol?
yes
Have things really come to this
There are other things that happen in the workshop😸
Ги... було весело. Дякую.
будь ласка)
Especially a spider and replay with placing protective dust covers.
😂😂
What is inside the spray bottle??
Degreaser
yeas. - Degreaser
@@NiceBikeService name of degreaser brand???
@@NiceBikeServiceis there any reason you’re so secretive about the products you use on your videos? In most of your videos where you go to grab a product stored in a bottle, you intentionally hide the label with your hand; I don’t understand this mentality …
Witam gdzie mozna kupic takie kunusy
Дякую за нове відео
Лайк
будь ласка 😘❤️
ich mache mehr fett rein und vor allen dingen sollten die dichtungen auch fett abbekommen damit diese den dreck besser draussen halten und nicht hart werden ... beim festmachen der nabe ist es einfacher wenn die schon feste seite in den schraubstock eingespannt wird damit sich dies nicht bewegt bei befestigen der 2. seite und festziehen der kontermutter ... die kugeln sollten angeschaut werden ob diese noch glaenzend sind dann koennen diese ohne probleme wieder genutzt werden ... je nach nabe ist es wichtig die kugeln separat zu halten da es auch bei einer nabe teilweise unterschiedliche kugeln auf den beiden seiten gibt ... ausserdem ist das reinigen mit nem alten lappen bzw mit alten klamotten besser da man damit nochmals sachen wieder verwendet anstatt neuen krams zu nehmen und wegzuschmeissen - ansonsten nettes video fuer die leicht zu bearbeiten naben - schoener waere es fuer naben die nicht so einfach zu machen sind ...
Bu atölyede sadece bisiklet değil motosiklet bile tamir edilir :D atölyede her şey var
Hahaha how many times did the same mistake happen to me. 8:45
😉 hahaha ...
Perfetto!!!!!!
Grazie per il vostro feedback! 😘
Great video with the sound off
Replace cones
1
Espetacular
👍👍❤❤
❤❤❤
8:45 - terard...
🙃🙃🙃
🔝
✊😘❤️❤️❤️
👍😉🙋
😉😘❤️❤️✊
コーンがこの品質だとカップも球もバレルもスポークもリムも同程度、さらにフレームもほかのパーツも同程度。新品コーン・玉に換えて見た目気分は良くなったけどまずはホイールの振れ取りと重量バランス取り(17-19秒のところで偏ってるのがわかる)のほうがパフォーマンスと寿命両方のためになるよ。ところでなぜコーンに虫食いが生じたかわかるかい？仮に粗悪品でも最初からあるわけじゃない。玉当たり調整方法が間違っててて締めすぎなんだよ。8分20秒あたりからホイールをフレームに装着しないで玉当たり調整してるけど正しくは、ホイールに装着してクイックを締結した状態でガタとスムーズな回転とのバランスを見極めて締める。ホイール単体で調整すると締めすぎてカップ-コーンの隙間で球が自由回転しなくなる。虫食いが全周ではなく部分的なのはそこで玉がスムーズに動いていないということ。ハブ単体やホイール単体で調整しても無意味だよ。でもまずは振れ取りと重量バランスだ。おっと、重量バランスはタイヤ・チューブ・バルブキャップ取り付けた状態で頼むよ。パンクしてタイヤはずすときは外す前の位置をマーキングして元の位置に装着してよね。だからチューブの銘柄は同じものをスペアで用意するんだよ。
さらに、ホイールは回転するからカップも回転、玉当たり調整ばっちりで玉も自由回転しても、コーンはフレームエンドに固定されて同じ位置のままだから、例えば千キロ走行ごとにクイック緩めてコーン(締め付けナット)を指で少し回転させてエンドとの位置を変えてやってくれよな。1回90度回しなら4回で元に戻る。3千キロ走行ごとにここばらしてグリスアップするのはちょうどいい感じだとおもうよ。だからコーンとエンドの位置もマーキングまたは画像取っておいて、OH後はずらした位置に嵌めてよね。コーン-エンドの位置ずらしはカネもグリスも手間もかからないけどパフォーマンスと寿命には重要なメカテクだ。
😂
✌️
Speed up your bike lose 10 lbs
haha))))
Can I borrow some of your tools my friend? 🫡
that's why I create educational content))
buy it in lidl
NO ! That's considered trespassing amongst my colleagues.