Since a lot of people are asking, this is the spot welder we use and have had the most luck with: amzn.to/4a1Pwrp Any 801D, SeeSii just happen to have the best price there. It will actually do 0.25mm nickel strips while a lot of them wont (make sure it's nickel strips, ones that wont rust in a salt bath)
Next time we get an "import" battery manufacturer emailing us, I'll try to get some specs and pricing on how this all works for ordering the counterfeits. They'll build them for you with lots of options on cells including Samsung cells but they offer New or Reconditioned. Prices are obviously waaay cheaper for recon so they are building with the right cells but very likely used/reconditioned cells they took out of a "Bad" battery identified what cells still have a little juice then put them with other working recon cells (could be 2-4 years old with heavy use). You can also choose your packaging, really emphasizing they can say whatever you want. Shocking how cheap these can be if you want to order 1000+ look the part but will never last more than a few months before loosing performance, probably profitable if you don't mind being a shady counterfeiter. Really appreciate you highlighting how sketchy these batteries can be! People just try to save a few bucks but then realize you are getting ripped off!
Is it not possible they can easily buy fake wraps to put around junk Chinese cells? Far easier and cheaper to counterfeit those wraps than anything else.
In regards to the fake batteries numbers being so low, if I had to guess, the cells may be genuine but they are either used, recovered, or are factory rejects. Hence the price.
@@johncoops6897 Apologises if I upset you. In regards to the fake batteries, those numbers do not make sense on why they are so low. I have a few genuine Samsung cells that perform better than what I observed. My hypothesis is and was just guessing as to why. I really don't care that much but was thinking out loud. Thanks for the info.
I think the issue was more about the connections even with the added nickel strips. Without good spot welding on the cells themselves, resistance can be huge. Nickel is a lot more resistive than even aluminum so needs a very nice spot weld. Adding tabs on top helps for sure, but the bottleneck is still on the cell connection.
The comment from OhioPowerTool seems to back this up too - they aren't putting GOOD cells in these things, even if they look the part. The cells are the most expensive individual parts after all.
Didn't destroy the tool, but back in the day, I was working with DeWalt fan boys in the nicad days. They always made fun of my toy Makita drill. One day we were climbing poles, and a guys drill died, and he asked to borrow mine and it almost snapped his wrist, he wasn't ready for it. Shortly after, DeWalt also came out with lithium ion drills, but I'll never forget that day.
The lipo tech in RC batteries are pretty crazy. and if you ever feel like making tool monsters again, you can get some absolutely ridicules ESC+motor combos to take any impact hammer to the sky :) Love all the "skunk works" videos!
That was so fun! Thanks so much for the time and testing you put into this! I really liked those 15 Cell packs, they were crazy strong! With some very nice cells! Thanks again!
Hey thanks for building it more than once for us, and telling us to keep it around! It's a really fun pack. Let us know if you ever want it back to tinker more.
Those "Beasts" should be commercially available for those of us who are just as reckless with our tool torture. 1450... mmm amperage... I wonder what mag fluid would look like in a jar close to that motor..
I love the "Dr Frankenstein" type videos you do. I have always been one to open up and spice up my tools, sound systems, cars, vacuums, basically everything. This rustles my jimmys. The "holy crap" statement made my day.
@TorqueTestChannel chances are you shorted the windings as they weren't meant for that much power and simply melted some insulation. You should take it apart and test it. The much larger driver likely has a larger motor (obviously) that can handle the increase in power, like you said maybe designed with an eye toward bigger batteries anyways. Either way it can dissipate the heat much better than the smaller driver motor can.
13:28 "more capacity should mean less voltage drop" not when you have the same number of cells, higher capacity ones will usually have higher IR and more voltage drop. There are some exceptions ofc (like announced molicel P50B) but samsung 50S are not that powerful unfortunately. Forge has higher voltage in this test not just because of IR but because of the chemistry, lipos have different discharge curve with higher average voltage.
@@Thepornstar97 yeah, they have basically double the power output compared to 50S cells, or similar to 30T. So that pack should behave like FV 9Ah just with more capacity.
I dunno why these are so fun. It has the same spirit of dropping a really hot engine on the smallest econo crap box you can get your hands off, and blasting off 9 second pass.
Nailed it and reminds me of a car I did just that to! Bought and built a 13B rotary, massive turbo... shoved it in an 1800-pound 1976 Mazda RX2, 600hp at the wheels. Dirt cheap 10 second car. Would have done 9's if it wasn't sending the tires directly to Jesus. So sad I sold it.
These rc batteries designed to dump their power asap. Got one powering my longboard and has enough strength to take off faster than I can stay on the deck.
Except for the fact that you're dumping already generated amd stored power and losing tons of power to make lesser power... sure basically a generator 🙄
@@andrewfrey6960That's really interesting. I wonder if we could see a combination of battery technologies in the future. The more typical ones we see now, and a few of these high discharge RC batteries. Either have the RC batteries "activate" after like 5 seconds and have it give a big boost to output. Could be interesting.
@@jseen9568 It would get too complicated and that would mean expensive and it's already expensive enough. There's some other things though like the tradeoff with life expectancy. Tool batteries can last years with minimum wear. Meanwhile the packs I've used in my longboard dont even hold half a charge anymore after roughly 300 charges.
I Love it! Really appreciate you guys testing home made cells (and making your own) along with systematically testing as well as making that data so publicly available. Since a lot of viewers rely on cordless tools now for their profession It would be great if you added a column for how long it took you to assemble the battery. I think taking this into account as a type of opportunity cost is something that is relevant when comparing prices. If you can build your own battery but it takes 2-3hours of your day then paying a premium for NameBrand might actually be worth doing. I would have said buying a counterfeit vs making your own but I similarly believe 60-80% the performance doesn’t justify 60-80% price. It’s a logarithmic scale that steeply drops off below the 90% where value plummets such that 80% performance would justify 60% cost and a 60% performance normally wouldn’t even be worth purchasing except for the occasional Light Duty applications done by inexperienced homeowners which barely even justifies the material cost & transport to produce and bring to market.
I consider any ebay listings of M12 batteries with stock photos counterfeit by default. A lot of the sellers are high volume with 99+% feedback but you'll see dozens of negatives complaining about counterfeit and defective batteries.
First time to the channel. This was very entertaining and informative! Think I'll hang around. As a mech eng with a penchant for destruction, this torture testing stuff makes for great viewing! Happy I bought genuine Milwaukee after watching this. I liked the beast battery though. High C pouch LiPos are so handy. Glad to see someone else likes to shove them in places they have no business being.
This episode was just awesome. I can't believe the power you can get out of some of these packs. Milwaukee might want to change their packaging and stickers on their batteries since I couldn't tell the fake one from the original until you pointed out the lights and weight. Unfortunately you usually only get one light lit up when new, so you can't check to see before opening the package and charging it before hand. Great job as always guys!!!!
The price tag is often the giveaway. But simply buying direct from the manufacturer rather than a third party is an easy way to make sure you get the real deal.
i had a custom lipo pack running my milwaukee m12 right angle at 14 volts, it worked great for about a year snapping bolts in half left right and center before a bearing problem locked it up solid
Have you tried running these tools on ~24v? Just adding another set of cells in series sorta thing. Would be interesting to see what happens overvolting the situation a bit :)
The power of the battery made out of RC LiPo packs doesn't surprise me in the least. When you delve down the rabbit hole and dig further into the world of battery powered RC cars seeing the power these batteries put out is crazy. The average user who don't maintain their batteries will get themselves in trouble with LiPo's very quickly. They need to be discharged if they're ever to be stored for long periods of time. :)
As an old school RCer, I'm not gonna lie, I'm a little salty that LiPos have basically killed nitro RCs lol. But holy actual hell is the performance potential just undeniable. Absolutely insane what they can do today. Also, being a gearhead/hardcore car guy/racer/etc., having this interest in what's going on in the RC space(and, for that matter, power tools too), I've had a VEEEEEEERY different perspective on EV cars compared to the average dude with a turbo LS whatever lol. Guys can talk shit about EVs all they want - a Tesla Plaid still runs 9.20s straight off the showroom floor. I'm probably not going to be in the EV market any time soon, but I'm also fully aware of just how capable they can be. Not a one-size-fits-all solution for all use cases, but they aren't going away(even governments do finally realize that you can't "encourage" people to buy a certain type of car they don't want by having automakers just make more of them).
TTC (and anyone wanting to play with LiPo swapped packs) LiHV cells offer all the C ratings of 'normal' LiPo cells but with a nominal voltage of 3.85v (4.35v max). DJI and others use these to eek out further capacity and performance without adding another cell. They would take a nominal pack voltage from 18 (5x3.6v) to 19.25. Combine that with 50C+ discharge...
I also wonder about losses like you had with the battery adapters, low purity nickel? Are you checking the voltages to see what the knock off BMS is charging to? How well it's balancing? There's no reason those Molicells shouldn't be performing better than that if charged right.
Great video once again! It's the kind of stuff we all wish we could do but can't. Thanks! I love that you saved the drill for the end...hilarious! BTW, I hope your wrist survived better than the tool:-)
Are you kidding me two weeks ago i look and ridgid didn't offer one are i could find it. that's the tool platform I have and had to get makita instead, so new everything ☹️
Looks like most of them are using "recon" cells which have limited discharge anyways. Seems like they need to be specifically "hopped up" like the lifepo rig in order to kill anything.
Batteries prove wrapped or stamped with whatever they wanted it to say. Try maybe taking off the battery wrap and see what’s under there. I had this happen with 18650s a lot
The packaging on the fake 8.0 is different than the real 8.0s as well. The genuine batts have “blister sealing” (not sure the industry name for it) circumferentially around the pack whereas the counterfeit typically does not and has the paper glued to the plastic seal.
A idea for a future video could be to test aftermarket battery cases and bms for DIY batteries. I build my power tool batteries myself, but almost impossible to know which kit or bms is the best. If possible testing kits from aliexpress would be much appreciated since these products are available for us international viewers.
Man, you gave me the oh crap feels. I just checked the sequential lights on my 12ah HO's that I bought off of Amazon. Thank goodness they are sequential...
Another great video! What i would love to see is how mouch tourqe say a 21mm wrench would generate with a hammer blow or multiple. I often use hammer and wrench if my compact dewalt impact driver does not have enough umpf.
Why doesnt the 8.4Ah with Molicel spicy cells out preform the standard HO 8.0 with much less spicy cells? Especially when the 8.4Ah was made great with proper gauge wires and nickle strips?
I'm curious how your dyno works for the impact wrench. It looks like you have some load cells measuring the force applied from the plate, however, the force applied to the screw (rotationally) would be much LOWER than the compression force applied to the load cells. How do you measure the rotational force applied to the screw???
Impact wrench torque is not measured as an axial force like rotational torque. It can't be compared to for example against a drill. An impact wrench is specc'd based on how tight it can tighten a bolt, FWD and REV. Which implies how as well it can loosen. This is done with bolt tension according to the Skidmore Wilhelm process, we express bolt tension as ft-lbs of torque here using a coefficient in our calibrating process. But it's usually like lbs of clamping force or whatever metric unit you'd prefer. What you're describing is dynamic torque, or impulse force. A Skidmore TQ-1000 can do that, but it's generally not used by anyone.
so what I get from this is the cheap knock offs would be good for lighting applications especially for situations where battery damage is at high risk. also good for light applications of impact drivers and small drills doing light tasks, or changing your phone.
I am also making my own Makita battery out of the 50S and after seeing “The Beans” melting the nickel, decided to do a Bosch and slap copper instead - they laser solder fat 0.3mm copper, creating lots of connection point in the process but I don’t have the tools and will sandwich spot weld 0.1 nickel on 0.1mm copper. Swapping some of these batteries to copper could improve things
Impressive, I guess this shows what may be possible while sticking with a single 18v battery. Looks like a 12ah Forge battery might break some existing Milwaukee tools, wonder what they'll do about that?
Love the idea of shoving an rc battery in one of those things. 50c rating makes that 4.5kw, so I see why the voltage wouldnt drop at 700 watts. I planned on using 2 of them to power a gokart I'm building for some insane acceleration.
I bought what I thought was an OEM m12 Milwaukee battery. It works, but it doesn't seem right. It's a 6 amp hour, but it doesn't last any longer than the 4 amp hour. I've been wondering for quite a while.
Needs some sort of ramp controller with a dial or even a solo button for cycling would be fine, but something on the batteries to control their max C output would be nice
Yeah, even back in the early-mid 2010s when I got into RC, the output capabilities of LiPo pouch cells were absolutely outrageous. 5Ah 100C packs were readily available if you knew which brands wouldn't lie about their specs. I'm honestly surprised we didn't see them in tool packs a lot sooner, despite their inherent volatility. Their ability to resist voltage drop and retain rated capacity under heavy load is unmatched.
Awesome video, next time I think you guys could probably squeeze out even more using modern high end lipo's used in racing, in the rc world the difference is very apparent so I don't see why it wouldn't help the voltage drop in this application as well. 👍
Hi, love the channel. Talking of SeeSii have you seen there 500Nm cordless ratchet. They also claim to have 130Nm and 300Nm cordless ratchets. I would love to see your results for Torque Test. They also have a rattle gun claiming 800Nm.
Hey would you consider making a video showing all the tools you have and how you store them ? I'd be interested to see the collection you own for the channel
btw the craziest part of this story is how these tools don't have some internal current or power limit, they depend on battery IR... not very smart for reliability and longevity imho but great for experiments like this :D
My testing have shown that they do. Grinder and drill reliably cut out around 150-160A even when the battery is still going strong. When I did repeated tests, that cutoff current kept coming lower, so probably temp sensor on the ESC.
@@toolscientist ok, good to know, thanks! Maybe it is just set too high then, or they just wanted to max out the peak numbers until the motor gets too hot
@riba2233 it is possible that this tool doesn't have a cutoff as they know it can't be overloaded (without something jamming the hammer). More likely it's just a failure. We'd need to see the same thing happen on 3+ tools to see if it's a real problem. I guess you could also remove the front case and make an adapter to run it in direct drive to see if it has thermal protection.
@riba2233 if you want to see it yourself, it's on [RAW 005] at 55:50. Grinder cuts out at 158A, then 140A, and then 124A with no stop signal from the battery. So definitely some sort of temp sensor.
Once going with a RC lipo hell break loose optios are available, I am curious about using a High voltage lipo that charged to 4.35v per cells, now that might kill your tools but voltage sags be damn.
What messed up the drill, by the look of it, was the anti-backdrive mechanism that's needed to be able to use the keyless chuck with one hand. Can happen if you have a heavy load and let off the trigger too quickly. You can tell that's what happened because for the motor to do that to the chuck by itself you'd have had to have gone in reverse, not forward.
For me, do one on each series of the tools. It would see how each of the knock offs can compare to the original. Todd from Project Farm did a similar test on dewalt batteries.
Since a lot of people are asking, this is the spot welder we use and have had the most luck with: amzn.to/4a1Pwrp
Any 801D, SeeSii just happen to have the best price there. It will actually do 0.25mm nickel strips while a lot of them wont (make sure it's nickel strips, ones that wont rust in a salt bath)
You gotta sandwich copper with nickel strips for the molicel battery's
Plz test the new ridgid 3/4 impact it took a nut off torqued to 2400 fo0t lbs in under 10 seconds ...try it with at least the 8ah plz plz plz!@@@@
thank you! that's bloody handy to know!
@@WHATDATTOOLDO It's the 1/2" with a 3/4" anvil. The old 1/2" Octane has a larger hammer assembly and beats it
@TorqueTestChannel ohh i didn't know that in the video it looked like a monster he torqued lugs to 2400 and it took them off
A normal person "Oh, man, this knock off battery killed my tool"
TorqueTest "But will it kill... all my tools???"
To paraphrase judge Doug Marcaida on Forged in Fire: "Your battery.... will keeeel!" 😁
Next time we get an "import" battery manufacturer emailing us, I'll try to get some specs and pricing on how this all works for ordering the counterfeits. They'll build them for you with lots of options on cells including Samsung cells but they offer New or Reconditioned. Prices are obviously waaay cheaper for recon so they are building with the right cells but very likely used/reconditioned cells they took out of a "Bad" battery identified what cells still have a little juice then put them with other working recon cells (could be 2-4 years old with heavy use). You can also choose your packaging, really emphasizing they can say whatever you want. Shocking how cheap these can be if you want to order 1000+ look the part but will never last more than a few months before loosing performance, probably profitable if you don't mind being a shady counterfeiter. Really appreciate you highlighting how sketchy these batteries can be! People just try to save a few bucks but then realize you are getting ripped off!
Hey great info! Thanks OPT. I still find them putting 6ah in an 8ah battery funny every time
Save a lil now, pay big later.
- Modern buyers
I miss old business.
Is it not possible they can easily buy fake wraps to put around junk Chinese cells? Far easier and cheaper to counterfeit those wraps than anything else.
you can even buy the fake wraps for dirt cheap from the typical 'overseas' websites @@etherealrose2139
@@etherealrose2139 Yeah, that seems a bit more likely. "Sansumg" batteries don't last as long.
In regards to the fake batteries numbers being so low, if I had to guess, the cells may be genuine but they are either used, recovered, or are factory rejects. Hence the price.
@@johncoops6897 Apologises if I upset you. In regards to the fake batteries, those numbers do not make sense on why they are so low. I have a few genuine Samsung cells that perform better than what I observed. My hypothesis is and was just guessing as to why. I really don't care that much but was thinking out loud. Thanks for the info.
I think the issue was more about the connections even with the added nickel strips. Without good spot welding on the cells themselves, resistance can be huge. Nickel is a lot more resistive than even aluminum so needs a very nice spot weld. Adding tabs on top helps for sure, but the bottleneck is still on the cell connection.
@@amogusenjoyer makes sense
The comment from OhioPowerTool seems to back this up too - they aren't putting GOOD cells in these things, even if they look the part. The cells are the most expensive individual parts after all.
Or the cells themselves are also fakes?
increasingly sketchy bean boxes
Wait till even more house fires with all the eBikes sitting on charge.
😆😆🤣🤣
That’s the next step in sketchy bean boxes. Dual e bike battery pack backpacks
@@mr2_mike Louis Rossmann moments.
There were a lot of angry pixies wanting to get out of the beast!
God, that was hilarious watching the Beast annihilate the chuck on the cordless 😂
Had to laugh way too hard😂
That one got me roaring, absolutely friggin hilarious!
Didn't destroy the tool, but back in the day, I was working with DeWalt fan boys in the nicad days. They always made fun of my toy Makita drill. One day we were climbing poles, and a guys drill died, and he asked to borrow mine and it almost snapped his wrist, he wasn't ready for it.
Shortly after, DeWalt also came out with lithium ion drills, but I'll never forget that day.
@@lilsammywasapunkrocki
The lipo tech in RC batteries are pretty crazy. and if you ever feel like making tool monsters again, you can get some absolutely ridicules ESC+motor combos to take any impact hammer to the sky :) Love all the "skunk works" videos!
That was so fun! Thanks so much for the time and testing you put into this! I really liked those 15 Cell packs, they were crazy strong! With some very nice cells! Thanks again!
Hey thanks for building it more than once for us, and telling us to keep it around! It's a really fun pack. Let us know if you ever want it back to tinker more.
@@TorqueTestChannel
Awesome! I love the fact that you did want to play around with it more. It was a really fun project and TTC testing is the best!
Those "Beasts" should be commercially available for those of us who are just as reckless with our tool torture. 1450... mmm amperage... I wonder what mag fluid would look like in a jar close to that motor..
I love the "Dr Frankenstein" type videos you do. I have always been one to open up and spice up my tools, sound systems, cars, vacuums, basically everything. This rustles my jimmys.
The "holy crap" statement made my day.
"What that thing needs is, MORE POWER!"
"This little guy, is on the struggle bus out the gate" This video deserves a like for that quote alone!! 🤣
That's a shirt right there
This might be your best video yet! 🤣 Was surprised you risked the 1" D handle after killing the other impact but it was totally worth it
Sometimes you gotta just slide all your chips onto red and see what happens
@TorqueTestChannel chances are you shorted the windings as they weren't meant for that much power and simply melted some insulation. You should take it apart and test it.
The much larger driver likely has a larger motor (obviously) that can handle the increase in power, like you said maybe designed with an eye toward bigger batteries anyways. Either way it can dissipate the heat much better than the smaller driver motor can.
@@etherealrose2139 warranty replacement lol
So our battery made it within 15 FT lb of the beast. Very nice! - Mike
13:28 "more capacity should mean less voltage drop" not when you have the same number of cells, higher capacity ones will usually have higher IR and more voltage drop. There are some exceptions ofc (like announced molicel P50B) but samsung 50S are not that powerful unfortunately. Forge has higher voltage in this test not just because of IR but because of the chemistry, lipos have different discharge curve with higher average voltage.
I sure wish he had tested the peak performance of the P45B pack
@@Thepornstar97 yeah, they have basically double the power output compared to 50S cells, or similar to 30T. So that pack should behave like FV 9Ah just with more capacity.
“Don’t be surprised if your tools start to unionize” 😂😂😂
5:00 _twenty second quarter mile_ 😂
That car is a Daihatsu Mira with a factory 2 cylinder engine. I think the official quarter mile is more like 28 seconds. Trust me, I own one.
I had an old diesel station wagon that did a cool 30 something second 1/4 mile....
I dunno why these are so fun. It has the same spirit of dropping a really hot engine on the smallest econo crap box you can get your hands off, and blasting off 9 second pass.
Nailed it and reminds me of a car I did just that to! Bought and built a 13B rotary, massive turbo... shoved it in an 1800-pound 1976 Mazda RX2, 600hp at the wheels. Dirt cheap 10 second car. Would have done 9's if it wasn't sending the tires directly to Jesus. So sad I sold it.
HA !! - the descriptions of the Beast battery are timeless !! Love it ! What a cool episode guys - well done !!
I love that the Beast was completely unperturbed by the 700W load. That thing is basically a mini backup generator.
These rc batteries designed to dump their power asap. Got one powering my longboard and has enough strength to take off faster than I can stay on the deck.
Except for the fact that you're dumping already generated amd stored power and losing tons of power to make lesser power... sure basically a generator 🙄
@@etherealrose2139 hey don't Google "battery back up generator" you gonna have a bad time.
@@andrewfrey6960That's really interesting. I wonder if we could see a combination of battery technologies in the future. The more typical ones we see now, and a few of these high discharge RC batteries. Either have the RC batteries "activate" after like 5 seconds and have it give a big boost to output. Could be interesting.
@@jseen9568 It would get too complicated and that would mean expensive and it's already expensive enough.
There's some other things though like the tradeoff with life expectancy. Tool batteries can last years with minimum wear. Meanwhile the packs I've used in my longboard dont even hold half a charge anymore after roughly 300 charges.
I was thinking about a couple lipo packs the whole time. Glad you brought them up at the end.
I Love it! Really appreciate you guys testing home made cells (and making your own) along with systematically testing as well as making that data so publicly available.
Since a lot of viewers rely on cordless tools now for their profession It would be great if you added a column for how long it took you to assemble the battery. I think taking this into account as a type of opportunity cost is something that is relevant when comparing prices.
If you can build your own battery but it takes 2-3hours of your day then paying a premium for NameBrand might actually be worth doing. I would have said buying a counterfeit vs making your own but I similarly believe 60-80% the performance doesn’t justify 60-80% price.
It’s a logarithmic scale that steeply drops off below the 90% where value plummets such that 80% performance would justify 60% cost and a 60% performance normally wouldn’t even be worth purchasing except for the occasional Light Duty applications done by inexperienced homeowners which barely even justifies the material cost & transport to produce and bring to market.
I consider any ebay listings of M12 batteries with stock photos counterfeit by default. A lot of the sellers are high volume with 99+% feedback but you'll see dozens of negatives complaining about counterfeit and defective batteries.
Wow. I bought a forge for my track saw. Noticed a big improvement over the HD6.0 it came with.
First time to the channel. This was very entertaining and informative! Think I'll hang around. As a mech eng with a penchant for destruction, this torture testing stuff makes for great viewing! Happy I bought genuine Milwaukee after watching this. I liked the beast battery though. High C pouch LiPos are so handy. Glad to see someone else likes to shove them in places they have no business being.
Voltage drop is linked to internal resistance not capacity. It makes sense that a hugh discharge rate cell has a lower internal resistance
This episode was just awesome. I can't believe the power you can get out of some of these packs. Milwaukee might want to change their packaging and stickers on their batteries since I couldn't tell the fake one from the original until you pointed out the lights and weight. Unfortunately you usually only get one light lit up when new, so you can't check to see before opening the package and charging it before hand. Great job as always guys!!!!
The price tag is often the giveaway. But simply buying direct from the manufacturer rather than a third party is an easy way to make sure you get the real deal.
Friday vids are better than Christmas Day. Great work as always guys!
i had a custom lipo pack running my milwaukee m12 right angle at 14 volts, it worked great for about a year snapping bolts in half left right and center before a bearing problem locked it up solid
16:14 "It's a pissed off Octopus-looking thing that may kill half your tools if you press it to its limits... We love it."
What a hoot! That was intense. RIP your tools but all in the name of science. Hope you are all famous now, you deserve it all.
Have you tried running these tools on ~24v? Just adding another set of cells in series sorta thing. Would be interesting to see what happens overvolting the situation a bit :)
Here ya go: th-cam.com/video/vHVuF8YvCu0/w-d-xo.html
@@TorqueTestChannel How did I miss this!?
@@SomeGuysGaragenot sure. If you're subbed with notifications on you won't miss a thing.. just saying. Don't worry TTC I got your back.haha
The power of the battery made out of RC LiPo packs doesn't surprise me in the least. When you delve down the rabbit hole and dig further into the world of battery powered RC cars seeing the power these batteries put out is crazy. The average user who don't maintain their batteries will get themselves in trouble with LiPo's very quickly. They need to be discharged if they're ever to be stored for long periods of time. :)
As an old school RCer, I'm not gonna lie, I'm a little salty that LiPos have basically killed nitro RCs lol. But holy actual hell is the performance potential just undeniable. Absolutely insane what they can do today.
Also, being a gearhead/hardcore car guy/racer/etc., having this interest in what's going on in the RC space(and, for that matter, power tools too), I've had a VEEEEEEERY different perspective on EV cars compared to the average dude with a turbo LS whatever lol. Guys can talk shit about EVs all they want - a Tesla Plaid still runs 9.20s straight off the showroom floor. I'm probably not going to be in the EV market any time soon, but I'm also fully aware of just how capable they can be. Not a one-size-fits-all solution for all use cases, but they aren't going away(even governments do finally realize that you can't "encourage" people to buy a certain type of car they don't want by having automakers just make more of them).
I just tested a cheapo Seesi impact from Amazon and was actually amazed at how quick it zipped the lug nuts off of a 20yo Camry. Really surprised me.
TTC (and anyone wanting to play with LiPo swapped packs) LiHV cells offer all the C ratings of 'normal' LiPo cells but with a nominal voltage of 3.85v (4.35v max). DJI and others use these to eek out further capacity and performance without adding another cell. They would take a nominal pack voltage from 18 (5x3.6v) to 19.25. Combine that with 50C+ discharge...
I also wonder about losses like you had with the battery adapters, low purity nickel? Are you checking the voltages to see what the knock off BMS is charging to? How well it's balancing? There's no reason those Molicells shouldn't be performing better than that if charged right.
Great video once again! It's the kind of stuff we all wish we could do but can't. Thanks! I love that you saved the drill for the end...hilarious! BTW, I hope your wrist survived better than the tool:-)
I do declare, this the First Annual Built At Home Battery Showdown! !!👏🤞
16:45 ❤"tools st rt to unionize on you"
What's the name of that battery powered spot welder??? That look handy
BEAST MODE 2.0 - I will await the second video
Very interesting, funny to think each tool must have a sweet spot between supplying it enough juice and snapping it in half.
Can we add a measurement category for entry level DIY cheap cordless drills too, branded and unbranded 12V, 18V category
Coming to a theater near you - “Torque and the Beanstack”, a story of voltage loss and RPM redemption.
TTC, can't wait for your to get your hands on the new 3/4 Ridgid. We'll see how much Milwaukee allowed his little brother to shine 😂
Are you kidding me two weeks ago i look and ridgid didn't offer one are i could find it. that's the tool platform I have and had to get makita instead, so new everything ☹️
The Makita has the beans too, i wouldn't doubt that purchase. If you got the receipt and box maybe it'll work out.@@danielsmith-ze3wy
dude this channel is seriously underrated. love your content bro keep it up
I love this. "how much power can these tools actually handle"
I always worry about the aftermarket battery cause I worry without the current control to protect the tool and batteries
Looks like most of them are using "recon" cells which have limited discharge anyways. Seems like they need to be specifically "hopped up" like the lifepo rig in order to kill anything.
Summit has there own battery impact now 70 beans only tool. Though might be worth looking into
Y’all are awesome and I love it!!!! Please keep it coming and I’ll keep watching!!!!!
Very impressive. I wondered about the battery efficiency. Have you ever tracked the power in during charging compared to power out of tool use?
Batteries prove wrapped or stamped with whatever they wanted it to say. Try maybe taking off the battery wrap and see what’s under there. I had this happen with 18650s a lot
The packaging on the fake 8.0 is different than the real 8.0s as well. The genuine batts have “blister sealing” (not sure the industry name for it) circumferentially around the pack whereas the counterfeit typically does not and has the paper glued to the plastic seal.
A idea for a future video could be to test aftermarket battery cases and bms for DIY batteries. I build my power tool batteries myself, but almost impossible to know which kit or bms is the best. If possible testing kits from aliexpress would be much appreciated since these products are available for us international viewers.
#1
Please review more of the electric screw driver and also power scrubber.
Love your videos ❤
Man, you gave me the oh crap feels. I just checked the sequential lights on my 12ah HO's that I bought off of Amazon. Thank goodness they are sequential...
Another great video! What i would love to see is how mouch tourqe say a 21mm wrench would generate with a hammer blow or multiple.
I often use hammer and wrench if my compact dewalt impact driver does not have enough umpf.
Why doesnt the 8.4Ah with Molicel spicy cells out preform the standard HO 8.0 with much less spicy cells? Especially when the 8.4Ah was made great with proper gauge wires and nickle strips?
What spot welder are y’all using for adding nickel strips?
Added to pinned
This was a fun episode! 🤣 Thanks for the entertainment!!!
I'm curious how your dyno works for the impact wrench. It looks like you have some load cells measuring the force applied from the plate, however, the force applied to the screw (rotationally) would be much LOWER than the compression force applied to the load cells. How do you measure the rotational force applied to the screw???
Impact wrench torque is not measured as an axial force like rotational torque. It can't be compared to for example against a drill.
An impact wrench is specc'd based on how tight it can tighten a bolt, FWD and REV. Which implies how as well it can loosen. This is done with bolt tension according to the Skidmore Wilhelm process, we express bolt tension as ft-lbs of torque here using a coefficient in our calibrating process. But it's usually like lbs of clamping force or whatever metric unit you'd prefer.
What you're describing is dynamic torque, or impulse force. A Skidmore TQ-1000 can do that, but it's generally not used by anyone.
Awesome vid! Crazy performance out of those batteries. Wonder when we'll get those space aged graphene batteries. Think I saw CAT was putting some out
The forge 12ah will be the tabless cell design, not pouch, but it’ll output even more than the 6.0 pouch I bet.
Can you test the DCD130? I'm curious how a mud mixer/drill stacks up against a normal drill
so what I get from this is the cheap knock offs would be good for lighting applications especially for situations where battery damage is at high risk. also good for light applications of impact drivers and small drills doing light tasks, or changing your phone.
Nice! Surely you could have "ballparked" the Beasts cost estimate?
I'd love to see @Tronicsfix try and repair some of the boards you've cooked.
TTC is by far the best channel on YT.
I am also making my own Makita battery out of the 50S and after seeing “The Beans” melting the nickel, decided to do a Bosch and slap copper instead - they laser solder fat 0.3mm copper, creating lots of connection point in the process but I don’t have the tools and will sandwich spot weld 0.1 nickel on 0.1mm copper.
Swapping some of these batteries to copper could improve things
Impressive, I guess this shows what may be possible while sticking with a single 18v battery.
Looks like a 12ah Forge battery might break some existing Milwaukee tools, wonder what they'll do about that?
Can you test some Neuron Hilti ? We use a lot at work and keen to see a comparison !
Love the content!
Great vid. Did you fix that Milwaukee drill with a makita???? 🤔
Love the idea of shoving an rc battery in one of those things. 50c rating makes that 4.5kw, so I see why the voltage wouldnt drop at 700 watts. I planned on using 2 of them to power a gokart I'm building for some insane acceleration.
I bought what I thought was an OEM m12 Milwaukee battery. It works, but it doesn't seem right. It's a 6 amp hour, but it doesn't last any longer than the 4 amp hour. I've been wondering for quite a while.
Needs some sort of ramp controller with a dial or even a solo button for cycling would be fine, but something on the batteries to control their max C output would be nice
Use graphite based batteries for a better discharge rate. I've had good luck with turning graphine
Can you take 2 6 amp forge and put into a M18 12amp battery
Yeah, even back in the early-mid 2010s when I got into RC, the output capabilities of LiPo pouch cells were absolutely outrageous. 5Ah 100C packs were readily available if you knew which brands wouldn't lie about their specs. I'm honestly surprised we didn't see them in tool packs a lot sooner, despite their inherent volatility. Their ability to resist voltage drop and retain rated capacity under heavy load is unmatched.
I've seen 'new' m12 2.5ah batteries and 20v dewalt powerstacks for over half off on amazon recently. Now I feel unsure to buy them😅
Awesome video, next time I think you guys could probably squeeze out even more using modern high end lipo's used in racing, in the rc world the difference is very apparent so I don't see why it wouldn't help the voltage drop in this application as well. 👍
I watch every Friday and this was the best video yet
The new knockoff battery indicator lights work as they are supposed to, just an fyi
You guys are what Consumer Reports used to be.
16:14. I'm calling it the Pissed-off-topus.
Hi, love the channel. Talking of SeeSii have you seen there 500Nm cordless ratchet. They also claim to have 130Nm and 300Nm cordless ratchets. I would love to see your results for Torque Test. They also have a rattle gun claiming 800Nm.
Hey would you consider making a video showing all the tools you have and how you store them ? I'd be interested to see the collection you own for the channel
btw the craziest part of this story is how these tools don't have some internal current or power limit, they depend on battery IR... not very smart for reliability and longevity imho but great for experiments like this :D
My testing have shown that they do. Grinder and drill reliably cut out around 150-160A even when the battery is still going strong. When I did repeated tests, that cutoff current kept coming lower, so probably temp sensor on the ESC.
@@toolscientist ok, good to know, thanks! Maybe it is just set too high then, or they just wanted to max out the peak numbers until the motor gets too hot
@riba2233 it is possible that this tool doesn't have a cutoff as they know it can't be overloaded (without something jamming the hammer). More likely it's just a failure. We'd need to see the same thing happen on 3+ tools to see if it's a real problem. I guess you could also remove the front case and make an adapter to run it in direct drive to see if it has thermal protection.
@riba2233 if you want to see it yourself, it's on [RAW 005] at 55:50. Grinder cuts out at 158A, then 140A, and then 124A with no stop signal from the battery. So definitely some sort of temp sensor.
i know for a fact the Milwaukee die grinder has a woefully low safety limit. any torque and it shuts straight off
Love this stuff! Keep doing it!!!
I was laughing so hard, I had to sit down during the final drill test. Hahahahahaha
Edit: the outro recommendations are funny too.
Once going with a RC lipo hell break loose optios are available, I am curious about using a High voltage lipo that charged to 4.35v per cells, now that might kill your tools but voltage sags be damn.
What messed up the drill, by the look of it, was the anti-backdrive mechanism that's needed to be able to use the keyless chuck with one hand. Can happen if you have a heavy load and let off the trigger too quickly. You can tell that's what happened because for the motor to do that to the chuck by itself you'd have had to have gone in reverse, not forward.
14:10 “they only suggest a 12.0”
I wonder what the torque would be on it if you just put a 2.0 on it
We tried it with a 5ah at least: th-cam.com/video/l_pCeGmQU8w/w-d-xo.html
@@TorqueTestChannel ouch, almost 25% loss! Thanks I forgot you tested the 5ah with it
Whats that board you guys are using to test voltage,current,etc..? Is it a device you put together
Does the Milwaukee mid torque get any noticeable gains from using a forge battery?
Not noticeably
I used to ditch the nicd on power tools back in the day n put lipos. Nowadays are rc cars are at 40 volts. 60 volts when I want stuff to catch fire.
as far as I understood 12AH forge won't have lipos but 15x tabless 21700 cells, same they use in new MX fuel packs and in makita BL404F :)
Ahh, good point!
@@TorqueTestChannel 👍
Try one test connected to an outlet! (converting to DC and proper voltage)
th-cam.com/video/apSJCW5Wncw/w-d-xo.html
Have you guys already tested the 40v XGT BL4040F high output Makita battery, or still not available yet?
Don't be surprised if your tools start to unionize on you lmao 🤣😂😂 loved the vid and all the one liners!!
Your videos always make me laugh. Great stuff! Cheers.
Can you do one with DeWalt counterfeit batteries?
For me, do one on each series of the tools. It would see how each of the knock offs can compare to the original.
Todd from Project Farm did a similar test on dewalt batteries.
Where do I get that battery to support? I don't see anything for sale.
Absolutely loving it keep it coming guys