DIY Ebike using a Car Alternator as a Motor Easy - No Hall Effect Sensors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ธ.ค. 2021
- In this video I'm showing my first homemade Alternator Powered Bicycle with no hall effect sensors installed, I'm using a Duel mode 48v 1500-2000 Watt controller, electric vehicle. I've wanted to do this for over 10 years even before I started my channel in 2011, I saw it done in a forum or on a webpage but I never sourced a controller until now. Alternators can make a fairly powerful motors and you can source them from junk yards or new very cheap. I only recently started ordering things online so I ordered some parts and controllers from Amazon and Ali. Years ago they didn't have duel mode controllers so I wasn't as interested in converting. The first test run on the ebike I believe I hit about 40mph but in the video test drive It only performed at half speed, I'm not sure if its the cold weather -5, maybe lower amps from the batteries at colder temps also the tires were kind of flat. The alternator I used was from a older 90s GM car I believe it's about 80 amps. Batteries I used 4 12v 10ah lead acid, and for the rotor power I made a 3s3p 18650 battery pack. To convert the Alternator it's pretty easy just disconnect the 3 phase stator coils from the bridge rectifier and attach /solder three thick wires, next disconcert electrical components connected to brushes and run two wires out from each brush contact. Put your alternator back together, connect the rotor wires to a 12v battery to create the necessary magnet on the rotor and than hook up the controller. Put the controller in learning mode by connecting learning wires, (do not hook up throttle yet) connect up power to controller and the controller will run a test on the motor let spin for a short while than disconnect learning wires. Than connect up throttle to controller and than re hook up power, motor should run when throttle is turned. I'll do a update video on this ebike in the spring, if you want more info on hooking up I'll make another video.
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This is a very useful video. Thank you for the information and the demonstrations :) I'm going to perform an alternator ebike conversion in the future and you've definitely made my project easier
Now I have a use for that trashed mongoose bike and the alternator out of my wrecked truck. Thanks.
It's amazing that you can use a car's alternator and use it to power the bike, Pretty sick man 👍
Hey, mate, I got caught up just now watching the Tesla car engine, and immediately I was like I gotta get back to watching your videos, especially the alternator bike!
I think batteries are fun to work with but not for electric cars… A combustion engine is just to much fun!
The alternator engine is so great, and it just shows how much training you sport in this area.
I’m hoping to start building my own alternator bike!
Thanks Man, I really appreciate it 👍 Check out the new Radial / Axial Flux EV motor, apparently 335 HP and its the size of a small water melon. Good luck on your E-bike build, I'm going to try and make some more videos in the spring on the alternator bike.
@@kurtscottage Ok, Great.
Amazing project, can you use a 12 v led battery to generate the magnetic field?
I want a 12v version - what are the motor RPMS as far as you know for sure? (Need be I can just divide 48/4 36/3 or 24/2 to get 12v RPM - depends on the controller though.)
This project is very good!
Subscribed because the clips at the end I really don't know what the hell's going on but I liked it lmao
Nice job bro. keep tinkering. At 6:08. You mention a heavy duty Buck converter. Where would you recommend to purchase one? Thanks. I'm working on generating 72V 5 amps for my ebike from an alternator. But I need to kick up the voltage from the alternator 13.5V 145 amps. Can a Buck Boost Converter do the job? Oh, my ebike battery bank is Lead Acid.
I got a 2006 f150 alternator that's still good wat else do I need to buy to get 1 going been trying to figure it out
40 MPH on a freaking e-bike and you're expressing disappointment?!? 40 mph is STELLAR !! Great video, friend. I am thoroughly impressed and I don't impress easily. Honestly, I'd say you are just this side of a genius. Questions, if I may (easy, common ones).
1 What do you believe to be your approximate hp @ motor sprocket?
2 With extreme weight at back wheel, is your steering sketchy at speed ?
3 Range @ moderate speed (20 mph ) ?
4 Are those small car batteries above back wheel and did you consider using marine batteries instead ?
5 How did you determine which size sprockets to use (drive/wheel) ?
6 The max speed for e-bikes, where I live (The Great White North) is 30 kph (18 mph). Above that speed the bike is considered an electricmotorcycle and must be plated/insured etc...have your local uniformed finest harassed
you at all?
Thanks. Be safe. Cheers.
Can I asked a question brother...if bypass the diode it becomes a AC out...now , how about the current...the output be still the same amperage..thank you
the batteries, which ones did you replace them with.
Were they not powerful enough to run the motor?
Could you walk us through the alterations that you made on the alternator, in more detail, please? Thank you.
Can i use a 30a 1500w controller to reach that kind of speed?
can you please send me the actual format of connections of covertion?
From the videos i've seen alternator motors seem to be happiest with about 1 to 1.5 Amps on the field winding.
The field windings are about 2 to 2.5 Ohms in resistance, so with a 3S battery you would be pushing 5 amps through it, which is way too much.
Excess magnetic field will just increase magnetic drag, while also overpowering the magnetic field of the stator winding.
Thanks for the info and advice 👍 I was going to try and vary the voltage to the rotor with a rheostat or a buck converter. I'm going to get back to the Alternator ebike project soon. Awesome comment.
Would this mean that the field windings should be 2 - 3.75 volts?
@@timglass6514 a single lithium cell works well for powering the rotor winding
How many amp is your controller?
How much power can I push through these I want to do 10 kw
Correct me if I'm wrong:
If I have a battery of 12.6 volts and 5.4 amps then total wattage would be 68 watts.
If the stator of the alternator i.e the electromagnet takes 48 watts then my battery should run the electromagnet for an hour or so.
Is this correct?
Total wattage is 68.04 watt-HOURS.
At an average load of 48 watts, your battery will be drained in 1.4 hours, or 1 hour 24 minutes. That's decent, but unfortunately the real average will be at least 200-300W, and that equates to 0.22 hours, which is only 13 minutes 12 seconds.
And, if you really want power, 800-900W is a possibility, but only for 270 seconds - 4 minutes 30 seconds.
My man, thank you so much✌️
You're welcome 👍 😎
Did you use a separate source to power up the field
Yes that's what the Lithium ion 18650 battery pack is for, you could also just use another 12v lead acid battery
Top speed sir????
Really good video now i just have to empty my pockets to buy a controller
Thanks!! 👍 I found the controller for this bike on Alie
@@kurtscottage thanks
Can this be used as a car starter and alternator combined? Like in the honda vario 150 scooter, the alternator is also used to start the engine
I'm interested but ignorant. Is this an electric bike that doesn't need to be plugged in ever? Self charging. Or just an alternator used as a motor?
Alternator used as a motor
How much volt and amp battery is used bro
Hey bro 48v 10Ah
this is more work than i thought it would be.
What did you expect?
Ok.Bro...but.why.not.Bedini..on.rotor..for.charging.battery.....
Why not add two alternator's one on each wheel make it awd. More torque
You could, you would need another controller tho, Interesting ideas! 👍
While you could add another alternator to the front, the bike won't be as easy to steer. And 600 watts is plenty. A pro athlete produces about 400-600 watts of mechanical power. Even 350 watts is enough for smaller, long range e-bikes.
And you don't have to overcomplicate, either. If you want a simple e-bike controller, use three MOSFETS connected to Hall sensors, with the wires shifted one wire (2 to 3, 3 to 1).. as the rotor moves, the Hall sensors switch in a specific order that activates a nearby stator coil to keep it going. Then you can use PWM regulation like DC motors, and the speed under load will be controllable. Crude, and not exactly energy efficient, but if you're on a 200€ budget like me, it's usable. Also, a heavy 12 volt lead acid battery is enough. While higher voltages provide faster acceleration and lower power losses in the wiring, it's much more expensive (especially when you make a lithium pack).
Hola! 🎈🎈🎈
The bearing wheel is bad in alternator
starter motor use it for your runs with ur bike
You really should go li-ion they are far superior over lead acid batteries, also that is over geared and so is your other bikes really.
On the bike it looks like he has a pack of 18650 cells (oh he actually says it about half way through)
@@MittyNuke1 No that controls something else it's not actually what makes the motor spin, for the motor he is using lead acid batteries that is on the rear rack.
👏👍🤔
Spends a lot of time building this cool project but forgets to inflate the tires.
Why not pump the tires up? You get time to do everything else inc long jobs! Annoying to watch tbf
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Is this engineering