I'm glad it worked out for you! This may come in handy for some people and works on multi port fuel injected Fords. With the engine off, push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then crank it over for about 5 seconds. The engine won't start as spark will be cut off, however you will be able to prime up the timing tensioners. This is also what you should do after an oil and filter change, this way you aren't starting up a dry engine.
@@DeadlyNerotoxins I do this with my '03 Explorer V6 to avoid morning startup rattle. I don't get excessive revving, but there is a li'l knack to releasing the pedal then quickly letting up on the ignition.
I did the same thing for cold Colorado engine starts in the winter. Purchased a pre-luber kit with the proper gear pump, internal check valve, adjustible solid state timer, oil filter adapter. Install was easy. Worked well. This was over 25 years ago. No need to re-invent the wheel.
people dont understand that just the action of cranking the engine over is hard on parts because of no oil in the system they say just hold your foot down on the new style that allows to clear a flooded condition but you are still cranking a oil starved engine is not only the running without oil its the fact that you are turning a crank and cam with no oil i love the way you have done this it works great that rattle isant just from timing chain its from all the oil starved parts great fix
I just replace my timing chain on my 08 ford explorer 4.0 v6, this is an amazing idea, I'm really happy I found your video, the only doubt I have is how to choose a pump, I don't know what kind of pump to choose or how many psi it should has
Love these ideas you have young man. Years ago, when I had my Mk1 Escort I used to roll down the hill with the ignition on, but with the choke in. Once I got oil pressure I pulled the choke and it fired up......so rarely did I have to start the engine with no oil pressure. That engine lasted me 6 years.
How about cranking it in clear flood mode. That will build pressure, then start normally. Cranking is very low rpm compared to 700-1000 rpm on a cold start.
That's what I do. Hold accelerator down and crank for 3+ secs. Bit of a knack to releasing the pedal and the ignition at just the right time, but it's smooth when you nail it, and rattle-free... 😁 Haven't replaced the tensioners because I keep hearing stories where people changed them and it didn't fix the issue (or made it worse!) That being said, if this trick didn't work, I'd have tried changing the tensioners by now. That noise makes me cringe 😖
Hans Gruper Thanks, good luck and make sure you know what you're doing before you do it. Obviously you don't want this thing to fail or be hooked up wrong or you'll be building the motor, again haha
dirtbike5100 Real quick, what is the name and model of the sandwich adapter you got? I can't seem to find it. And yea, I'll make sure everything is done right. After all, this engine was a real pain to rebuild.
Hans Gruper I ordered it off of eBay from a company called glowshift. I don't remember the specific model, I Googled what the 4.0sohc oil filter thread was and ordered the proper adapter.
.....then, to turn on the radio, you push this marble, which falls into the cup, counterweighting the pendulum, which knocks over the dominos........🙁 But seriously, very ingenious and creative. Nicely done!
I know this is a old video, but did this infact extend the life of the engine? I've got a 2005 land rover lr3 v6 4.0 with only 85,000 mi right now, evidently this is essentially the same Ford 4.0 used in the ranger, currently no rattling or anything on startup. Wondering if I should put together this pre oiler as a preventative maintenance type of thing? I like to tinker and plan to make this land Rover last forever....thoughts?
Ditch that check valve: it's not spring loaded. Check with a tubing supplier like Swagelok or Parker for an inline offering that will be reliable. System probably only needs 5# spring to help ensure it get reseated after shutoff.
Very cool. I was also wondering instead of doing this could you just wire a kill switch to the fuel pump where you could crank the engine for a few seconds to build pressure before energizing fuel pump to start?
If you hold the button down for the pre oiler, does the oil pressure gauge go up on the cluster? If it does that means the primary timing area is getting oil.
Hans Gruper Yes it does. However, the gauge on the cluster moves whenever there is more than 7psi of oil pressure. In my experience, that is not enough to keep my chains from rattling. I usually pre-oil to about 25 psi on my external oil psi gauge for best results.
OK, my first question is: They dont rattle when brand new, and you said in your video that after time the spring gets weak that's supposed to hold chain tension till oil pressure comes up- why not just replace the spring in the tensioner with a new one or come up with a better spring not-thru Ford parts? seems like a tons of stuff you had to wire and plumb and make a whole new starting procedure just to compensate for a badly designed weak ford spring?????
ok....... LOL so put a new chain? Haha - I can tell you this, when it breaks, besides all the normal shit you have to tear down to replace it and possibly repair the bent valves and cracked piston tops and bent rods, but you'll really regret now having to remove all this pre-oiler stuff! LOL (Just kidding man,) but it's funny
LOL, can I suggest a topic for your next video? Maybe post how you can wrap duct tape around the outside of a 100k mile timing belt to make sure it doesnt let go? LOL
I watched the other video on this. You mentioned about building oil pressure before starting , does it build running oil pressure ? I've worked for a couple different line haul trucking companies. They rebuild the city trucks on a time bases and our line haul tractors on mileage. The mechanics tell me our road line haul trucks could have 10 times the miles and show less bearing where than the city pickup and delivery trucks. They did studies on leaving them running all day as aposed to shutting down every stop. They last longer by running all day , but since fuel is so expensive now they put shutoffs in the computer programming when the parking air valves are set after a minute or so. On another note about the pumps. I use to run filtered used motor oil in my tractors and old mechanical pumped F250 6.9 diesel. I made a transfer pump from a PowerWheels Razor scooter motor coupled to a hi volume Small Block Chevrolet oil pump from an engine I rebuilt. With a good battery it would transfer a 55 gal barrel in a few minutes. It would drip a little oil around the input shaft tho. I wrote this for anyone to toy with this idea.
If you put the tensioner in a cup of oil filled above the hole on the tensioner and pump it in the oil it primes to where you can not push it in anymore. Tensioner gets tight and will work properly.
Wouldn't it be easier just to replace the tensioner on the timing chain? Quite ingenious on the fix, but sure looked like a lot of work to take away the start up noise. Kudos on your fix though.
Hi I like the idea and it works good, you got a good brain on you to figure it all out. One thing I would question would be the solid copper line from the pump back into the oil filter adapter. The truck motor is rubber mounted so it moves around a little. if your extra pump is mounted to the truck body rigidly and the motor moves. I wonder if over time that solid line might fatigue and rupture somewhere, and maybe cause a loss of oil pressure and damage the motor if it lets all the oil go out with the trucks own regular oil system,then being open circuit. maybe something like one of those stainless steel braided flex hoses would be better. Yeah the motors old but would be a shame to seize it solid prematurely!.
My gm 2.4L is doing this rattle right now, i figure the timing chain hydraulic tensioner is at the end if it's travel and it was replaced back @ 90,000 miles. Diesel engine like noise goes away after 5 minutes. Now the car has 245,000. A ex girlfriend has this truck and something was chewing up the alt belt. Dealership replaced the belt tensioner - did'nt fix it so she keeps buying belts.
Hey Dirt, I was wondering if this is still working for you? I hate the sound of my truck starting to to the timing chain rattle... I tried replacing the tensioner and the rattle got worse. I will be trying this next as long as it works and has kept working for you.. Thanks for posting this, as it has helped me a lot!
Still works good...but proceed at your own risk! Let me know how things go. I recommend using copper lines on the high pressure side of the pump. The hose barb fittings are not meant for high pressure
+dirtbike5100 Hey, I have been researching for the last few days on and off about what to do about this issue. Have you ever thought about using an oil accumulator? Accusump makes them for around 200 bucks... They are a little pricey, but from what I understand it should do the same thing your pre-oiler does... What do you think? I really want to get rid of the stupid start up rattle.... Thanks for the help!
How's the mod holding up? I am having the same problem on the same year with the same mileage and wanted to know if you still think it was worth your time?
So far it's been working well for me. I have had some small issues with oil leaks. I upgraded the lines to hydraulic lines and got rid of the hose barbs in favor of flare fittings. I've had good luck with it preventing startup rattle but I can't make any guarantees about your truck. If this system fails or is put together incorrectly it could destroy your engine.
Well shit saved me from pulling the motor in the old exploder. I know it's experimental but i paid 600$ for this explorer 3 years ago and only issue it has now is that start rattle may as well try to fix it as cheap as possible
Yes they do. I already replaced them and it didn't fix the rattle. The guides/cassettes are already too worn for the spring to function as it's supposed to.
Your timing chains have stretched, it may be an expensive repair but if those chains let loose while your driving a new engine is gonna cost you way more.
For sure. The sohc motors were an engineering fail in my opinion. Designed to fail basically. They were just trying to make it either expensive to repair and if didnt repair then youd have to buy another motor.
I always see people say oh my 4.0 sohc runs and sounds perfect with xxx,xxx amount of miles. It doesn't mean the timing chain and cassettes/chain guides are good! they all wear and break some sooner than others
If a shade tree mechanic, sidewalk engineer (I will be president of this club), can figure out a fix for this rattle issue, why can't the real automaker engineers fix this problem?
so they make the same mistake on 3.5 ecobomb with the same crappy plastic timing chain guides... brilliant. I am working on an ecoboost style one following this guide. I have a more industrial 12v pump, I am using a quality check valve, mcmaster part 7775K54, to prevent back flow through the pump. This is in conjunction with the amsoil dual remote oil filter as it gives me the perfect place to put the pressurized oil in, with the perfect output to go straight to a pressure gauge. With ford screwing me 2X on the timing chain TSB, TSB15-0131, and it coming back this will hopefully resolve their shitty design. All brands suck at this point. To be honest, it is a consequence of the american culture shifting away from actually caring about quality. Next new thing every few years...
No, the 3.5L is not known to have this problem any more so than other engines. What it is instead known for in transverse mount (FWD biased) applications is the internal water pump leaking into the motor oil and wrecking the engine if not noticed in time. The ecoboost version is also known for carbon fouling the intake valves, and the turbo fault.
hahahahahahahahhahahahahahhahah tweeker on meth by dodges and chevy...is that a hemi hahahahahhahahah got meth hahahhahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahahah go to rehab
my explorer has the SOHC so far no problems other than the tension pulley, it also has quit a bit of power, its a 2 door and 2 wd so its lighter than the others
I'm glad it worked out for you! This may come in handy for some people and works on multi port fuel injected Fords. With the engine off, push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then crank it over for about 5 seconds. The engine won't start as spark will be cut off, however you will be able to prime up the timing tensioners. This is also what you should do after an oil and filter change, this way you aren't starting up a dry engine.
any idea if this work on a 2005 4.0 v6? Don't want to risk starting the engine at max revs with weak tension and having timing slip...
@@DeadlyNerotoxins
I do this with my '03 Explorer V6 to avoid morning startup rattle.
I don't get excessive revving, but there is a li'l knack to releasing the pedal then quickly letting up on the ignition.
Hey I know this was forever ago but do you (or anyone else for that matter) know if doing this accelerates wear on the starter/ignition system? or na
I did the same thing for cold Colorado engine starts in the winter. Purchased a pre-luber kit with the proper gear pump, internal check valve, adjustible solid state timer, oil filter adapter. Install was easy. Worked well. This was over 25 years ago. No need to re-invent the wheel.
people dont understand that just the action of cranking the engine over is hard on parts because of no oil in the system they say just hold your foot down on the new
style that allows to clear a flooded condition but you are still cranking a oil starved engine is not only the running without oil its the fact that you are turning a crank and cam with no oil i love the way you have done this it works great that rattle isant just from timing chain its from all the oil starved parts great fix
I just replace my timing chain on my 08 ford explorer 4.0 v6, this is an amazing idea, I'm really happy I found your video, the only doubt I have is how to choose a pump, I don't know what kind of pump to choose or how many psi it should has
Very well done, from theory to the actual work. :) Jack
+Jack R Thanks Jack!
Love these ideas you have young man. Years ago, when I had my Mk1 Escort I used to roll down the hill with the ignition on, but with the choke in. Once I got oil pressure I pulled the choke and it fired up......so rarely did I have to start the engine with no oil pressure. That engine lasted me 6 years.
Nice Malc!
If you only replaced the secondary tensioners and still get a rattle it might be the main tensioners going bad
great fix dirt...wonder if this would work for lifters that make noise until oiled up...
In theory it would!
now that was pretty slick man... you did a good job explaining and not a bunch of nonsense talking..
Good work, and really not a bad idea for getting oil to top end of any engine on cold starts. Well done!
How about cranking it in clear flood mode. That will build pressure, then start normally. Cranking is very low rpm compared to 700-1000 rpm on a cold start.
That's what I do.
Hold accelerator down and crank for 3+ secs.
Bit of a knack to releasing the pedal and the ignition at just the right time, but it's smooth when you nail it, and rattle-free... 😁
Haven't replaced the tensioners because I keep hearing stories
where people changed them and it didn't fix the issue (or made it worse!)
That being said, if this trick didn't work, I'd have tried changing the tensioners by now.
That noise makes me cringe 😖
I'm currently building a 4.0 SOHC. Everything is new except the block. This will be my next project. Thanks.
Hans Gruper Thanks, good luck and make sure you know what you're doing before you do it. Obviously you don't want this thing to fail or be hooked up wrong or you'll be building the motor, again haha
dirtbike5100 Real quick, what is the name and model of the sandwich adapter you got? I can't seem to find it. And yea, I'll make sure everything is done right. After all, this engine was a real pain to rebuild.
Hans Gruper I ordered it off of eBay from a company called glowshift. I don't remember the specific model, I Googled what the 4.0sohc oil filter thread was and ordered the proper adapter.
dirtbike5100 Beautiful. Thanks for the fast reply!
Just wanted to say thanks. Love your ideas on the rangers keep them coming!!
burden T Thanks buddy, will do!
this is a ford problem on all big blocks from way back this is a great fix
.....then, to turn on the radio, you push this marble, which falls into the cup, counterweighting the pendulum, which knocks over the dominos........🙁 But seriously, very ingenious and creative. Nicely done!
Nice idea, should help increase life of the engine. Good work!
I think it will. Thanks for you comment!
I know this is a old video, but did this infact extend the life of the engine? I've got a 2005 land rover lr3 v6 4.0 with only 85,000 mi right now, evidently this is essentially the same Ford 4.0 used in the ranger, currently no rattling or anything on startup. Wondering if I should put together this pre oiler as a preventative maintenance type of thing? I like to tinker and plan to make this land Rover last forever....thoughts?
You gave me some good ideas. Try the turbo scavage pumps on Ebay and Amazon. That push button idea is a good one.
How has this worked out the last 3 years? Are you still running it like this?
now that you made it get a patent on it quick before someone steels your idea and puts it on the market good job
+DriveShaft Drew Good idea Drew!
Where did you get the hydraulic pump that gets enough oil pressure? I also watched you other video that didn't make enough pressure!
I'm impressed, something i probably wouldnt have thought of myself
Thanks for stoppin' by!
Ditch that check valve: it's not spring loaded. Check with a tubing supplier like Swagelok or Parker for an inline offering that will be reliable. System probably only needs 5# spring to help ensure it get reseated after shutoff.
nice fix and it gets oil everywhere before you crank. very nice.
Thanks Ian!!
Great idea. Hope it continues to be a success.
Thanks buddy! Me too!
Will that copper tubing allow the engine to move from vibration and torque? Other than that good job
Some others shared the same concern, I don't recall having problems but ended up replacing it with a hydraulic hose to be safe.
Awsome! Fantastic set up.
You can also use an oil accumulator instead of a pump.
You Sir are a genius!
Very cool. I was also wondering instead of doing this could you just wire a kill switch to the fuel pump where you could crank the engine for a few seconds to build pressure before energizing fuel pump to start?
It's possible although even without priming the fuel pump the truck might fire briefly from leftover fuel in the system.
+dirtbike5100 true. Guess you would have to wire it to kill spark and fuel. Pain in the butt I guess.
even if engine doesn't fire up, it will still run dry
If you hold the button down for the pre oiler, does the oil pressure gauge go up on the cluster? If it does that means the primary timing area is getting oil.
Hans Gruper Yes it does. However, the gauge on the cluster moves whenever there is more than 7psi of oil pressure. In my experience, that is not enough to keep my chains from rattling. I usually pre-oil to about 25 psi on my external oil psi gauge for best results.
Great idea and a Job well done :)))
Thanks Buddy!
OK, my first question is: They dont rattle when brand new, and you said in your video that after time the spring gets weak that's supposed to hold chain tension till oil pressure comes up- why not just replace the spring in the tensioner with a new one or come up with a better spring not-thru Ford parts? seems like a tons of stuff you had to wire and plumb and make a whole new starting procedure just to compensate for a badly designed weak ford spring?????
Eclidean I tried replacing the tensioners but the problem didn't go away. Chains have probably stretched.
ok....... LOL so put a new chain? Haha - I can tell you this, when it breaks, besides all the normal shit you have to tear down to replace it and possibly repair the bent valves and cracked piston tops and bent rods, but you'll really regret now having to remove all this pre-oiler stuff! LOL (Just kidding man,) but it's funny
LOL, can I suggest a topic for your next video? Maybe post how you can wrap duct tape around the outside of a 100k mile timing belt to make sure it doesnt let go? LOL
Eclidean The engine has to be pulled to replace the chains.
In that case, it would be easier to replace the belt since you already have to tear down everything to get to it.
I watched the other video on this. You mentioned about building oil pressure before starting , does it build running oil pressure ?
I've worked for a couple different line haul trucking companies. They rebuild the city trucks on a time bases and our line haul tractors on mileage. The mechanics tell me our road line haul trucks could have 10 times the miles and show less bearing where than the city pickup and delivery trucks. They did studies on leaving them running all day as aposed to shutting down every stop. They last longer by running all day , but since fuel is so expensive now they put shutoffs in the computer programming when the parking air valves are set after a minute or so.
On another note about the pumps. I use to run filtered used motor oil in my tractors and old mechanical pumped F250 6.9 diesel. I made a transfer pump from a PowerWheels Razor scooter motor coupled to a hi volume Small Block Chevrolet oil pump from an engine I rebuilt. With a good battery it would transfer a 55 gal barrel in a few minutes. It would drip a little oil around the input shaft tho. I wrote this for anyone to toy with this idea.
Nice fix would a switch on fuel pump to turn it off and crank with no start do the same then turn it on to start truck??
try holding down the accelerator before and during cranking.
@@BWater-yq3jx traducción
If you put the tensioner in a cup of oil filled above the hole on the tensioner and pump it in the oil it primes to where you can not push it in anymore. Tensioner gets tight and will work properly.
yes that works when you install a new tensioner but even ford motorcraft tensioners fails nowdays when cold start and this pre oiler fixes it
Wouldn't it be easier just to replace the tensioner on the timing chain? Quite ingenious on the fix, but sure looked like a lot of work to take away the start up noise. Kudos on your fix though.
Already replaced the tensioners but still had startup rattle
Only 2 out of the 3 tensioners can be replaced without having to pull the motor then might as well replace the belts...
Hi I like the idea and it works good, you got a good brain on you to figure it all out. One thing I would question would be the solid copper line from the pump back into the oil filter adapter. The truck motor is rubber mounted so it moves around a little. if your extra pump is mounted to the truck body rigidly and the motor moves. I wonder if over time that solid line might fatigue and rupture somewhere, and maybe cause a loss of oil pressure and damage the motor if it lets all the oil go out with the trucks own regular oil system,then being open circuit. maybe something like one of those stainless steel braided flex hoses would be better. Yeah the motors old but would be a shame to seize it solid prematurely!.
A flexible line may be a worthwhile upgrade in the future, good tip!
My gm 2.4L is doing this rattle right now, i figure the timing chain hydraulic tensioner is at the end if it's travel and it was replaced back @ 90,000 miles. Diesel engine like noise goes away after 5 minutes. Now the car has 245,000. A ex girlfriend has this truck and something was chewing up the alt belt. Dealership replaced the belt tensioner - did'nt fix it so she keeps buying belts.
At 245k I'd say it's paid its dues!
Hey Dirt, I was wondering if this is still working for you? I hate the sound of my truck starting to to the timing chain rattle... I tried replacing the tensioner and the rattle got worse. I will be trying this next as long as it works and has kept working for you.. Thanks for posting this, as it has helped me a lot!
Still works good...but proceed at your own risk! Let me know how things go. I recommend using copper lines on the high pressure side of the pump. The hose barb fittings are not meant for high pressure
+dirtbike5100 Hey, I have been researching for the last few days on and off about what to do about this issue. Have you ever thought about using an oil accumulator? Accusump makes them for around 200 bucks... They are a little pricey, but from what I understand it should do the same thing your pre-oiler does... What do you think? I really want to get rid of the stupid start up rattle.... Thanks for the help!
+Jason Schroeder It would probably work, I did not use one because of the price
Quick question, how is your oil pressure gauge on top of your dash hooked up? thanks
How's the mod holding up? I am having the same problem on the same year with the same mileage and wanted to know if you still think it was worth your time?
So far it's been working well for me. I have had some small issues with oil leaks. I upgraded the lines to hydraulic lines and got rid of the hose barbs in favor of flare fittings. I've had good luck with it preventing startup rattle but I can't make any guarantees about your truck. If this system fails or is put together incorrectly it could destroy your engine.
Well shit saved me from pulling the motor in the old exploder. I know it's experimental but i paid 600$ for this explorer 3 years ago and only issue it has now is that start rattle may as well try to fix it as cheap as possible
Is that a mishimoto sandwhich adapter
Very clever idea, and well implemented. Did small engine mechanic help with idea?There is always more than 1 way to skin a cat.
cheers
Paul
I came up with the idea but I did run it past SmallEngineMechanic first ☺
Why not change tensioners? Dont they just screw into to the motor like a big bolt
Yes they do. I already replaced them and it didn't fix the rattle. The guides/cassettes are already too worn for the spring to function as it's supposed to.
Seems like a good aftermarket product.... an extended-range tensioner
Computers just love to rev your engine... god I hate that. All cars need pre-oliers.
The copper tube will break from engine vibration. Thats why anything will go from fixed objects to the engine will use rubber hose!
Faris Bsoul I ran the copper line for several months without issue. However, I did eventually go to a rubber hydraulic line to be safe
but its a nice fabrication. well done
dirtbike5100 mine only rattles at 2k what's going on?? I have been watching a lot of ppl's vids they either do it at cold start or all the time???
+Ice cream Bus Sounds like your guides are pretty worn
Your timing chains have stretched, it may be an expensive repair but if those chains let loose while your driving a new engine is gonna cost you way more.
When this thing blows we'll drop an old 5.0 in it and be good for another 100k ☺
+dirtbike5100 Now that's the thinking I like!
For sure. The sohc motors were an engineering fail in my opinion. Designed to fail basically. They were just trying to make it either expensive to repair and if didnt repair then youd have to buy another motor.
Oil accumulator problem solved.
I actually thought of how a pre oiler would help the problem . But never would of come up with this
you replaced both tensioners?
Yes, I replaced both tensioners but that did not fix the rattle.
I always see people say oh my 4.0 sohc runs and sounds perfect with xxx,xxx amount of miles. It doesn't mean the timing chain and cassettes/chain guides are good! they all wear and break some sooner than others
Just because you don't hear the rattle does not mean its fixed
OR… you could just replace your timing chain tensioner.
Cool deal buddy, a lot better than pulling the engine to do chains and guides. Lol
That's exactly why I did it! ☺
cool
Thanks Wayne!
If a shade tree mechanic, sidewalk engineer (I will be president of this club), can figure out a fix for this rattle issue, why can't the real automaker engineers fix this problem?
he's a dimond geezer!
The A is missing ^^ Let's better call it diamond.
so they make the same mistake on 3.5 ecobomb with the same crappy plastic timing chain guides... brilliant.
I am working on an ecoboost style one following this guide. I have a more industrial 12v pump, I am using a quality check valve, mcmaster part 7775K54, to prevent back flow through the pump.
This is in conjunction with the amsoil dual remote oil filter as it gives me the perfect place to put the pressurized oil in, with the perfect output to go straight to a pressure gauge. With ford screwing me 2X on the timing chain TSB, TSB15-0131, and it coming back this will hopefully resolve their shitty design.
All brands suck at this point. To be honest, it is a consequence of the american culture shifting away from actually caring about quality. Next new thing every few years...
No, the 3.5L is not known to have this problem any more so than other engines. What it is instead known for in transverse mount (FWD biased) applications is the internal water pump leaking into the motor oil and wrecking the engine if not noticed in time. The ecoboost version is also known for carbon fouling the intake valves, and the turbo fault.
The things people will do to make a Ford run LOL!
At least I don't have a front seat full of spare parts ☺
Cool fix! Those harbor fright pumps are junk!
The rubber impeller wouldn't generate enough suction to even start pumping oil! I was asking a lot of it however!
dirtbike5100
I had the same problem.
Why don't you sale that POS and buy a Dodge a Chrysler products"? Ford are junk lot of timing chain problem.
+michaelheiland123654 hahahahahahahahahhahahahahaha dumbass
derzx 479 what is so funny? Is the true.. So sad that Ford are ripping stupid people like you.
hahahahahahahahhahahahahahhahah tweeker on meth by dodges and chevy...is that a hemi hahahahahhahahah got meth hahahhahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahahah go to rehab
my explorer has the SOHC so far no problems other than the tension pulley, it also has quit a bit of power, its a 2 door and 2 wd so its lighter than the others
Chrysler? what a joke. They make pretty cars not drivable cars..hahaha