ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2023
- K_8_b_y_p@IEEE.ORG
#whirlpool
#r134a
#hvac
#refrigeratorrepairservice
#refrigeradores #refrigeratorrepairing #réfrigérateur
The WHOLE procedure, not just snippets with equipment you dont have or cant get easily.
Recharge on Whirlpools JUNK refrigerator with slow leak.
Bad brazing work. WRT314. Evaporator leak. This is the second
el -Crapola Whirlpuke box Ive had in 7 years. Same problem.
Oddly enough, the evaporator leak causes freezing at the defrost switch and mimics defrost problems. The defrost sensor was covered with ice.
BAD info in Utube videos on this topic. These kids are mechanics, not techs, they know nothing about refrigerant properties or sealed systems, just buzz words and mechanical procedures.
The WhirlPuke service documentation is WRONG, so I'm using high side pressure, freezer temperature, condenser heat and compressor current to recharge a partial system. The goal is to get rated freezer temperature, but charging by monitoring the other factors. Refrigerator freezers generally dont go to zero or much below, for that, get a deep -freeze. The refrigerator portion pulls the freezers temps up.
The pressures on the WhirlPuke service sheet are R134 pressures, not operating high side values. Useless.
The current of 1.2- ish amp (150W at 120 VAC) on the Service Sheet with the unit must be total for the whole unit, the compressor was 340 mA up to 570 mA.
Theres no way to charge by weight except to first discharge the system.
Im charging 134 vapor till it reaches about the proper freezer temp.
Charged, it made 2F in the freezer but wouldnt cycle off, decreased the cold control and it wouldnt make enough cold.
Had to increase the freezer air diverter to put more cold air into the refrigerator compartment then set the cold control, now its a steady 40F in the refrigerator.
A day later, perfect ,0F in the freezer, 40 +/- 1 in the fridge.
VERY IMPORTANT. MUST CHARGE SLOWLY IF WE ARENT CHARGING BY VOLUME and give the system time to pull the freezer temp down. It takes time to pull heat from the contents, its easy to rush it and overcharge it to get a fast temperature drop.
When charging with warm water, dip the whole can including fittings under water to check for leaks. I lost half a can of 134 from a leaky can valve.
Theres. an EXTREMELY small leak where the tubing was brazed into the evaporator near the defrost switch, refrigerant vapor is coming down the plastic tube that contains the return line from the evaporator, also an extremely small amount down the condensate line, proving its from the freezer compartment. My Robinair Leak Detector is rated at a minimum of 1/2 oz. per year and could barely detect the leak, it took 4 years to flatten the system.
Not worth fixing, just juice it every 2-3 years. It may even be too small to locate.
BEWARE OF BUYING R134 CANS, THEY ***LEAK*"" SITTING ON THE SHELF WAL MART IS SELLING THEM, SEVERAL I PICKED UP HAD LOST MAYBE A THIRD OF THEIR WEIGHT!
Its the fault of those worthless can valves that arent supposed to leak.
Thats why they were $10... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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At 18:50, noisy compressor means improper charge.
Like in MIG welding, hiss, bacon frying, not popping buzzing etc.
Popping and irregular sounds in a compressor means its not getting a steady flow of vapor, thats bad on the compressor seals.
I build the Vent in the wrong pipe... on the WaRm pipe ... the messurement was very far in the Red danger Zone... what now ? ... when Machine was turned off, than everythings looks good. But when i turned the machine on, than i reach the middl of the red District... :(
My refrigerator is correct to charge in the warm pipe, compressor high side. I do not know about your machine.
Discharge some gas to lower the pressure, start the compressor to see if pressure is in red zone, if it is, discharge more gas .
If pressure increases when it runs then the compressor is working.
@@k8byp Thank you so much. That is a good plan. I will try that later. Have a good day.
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When installing a new R134A compressor is it ok to vacuum and charge from the service port? It call for 5.5 OZ of refrigerant. What psi would I be looking for on the Service Port if this is alright? 25-50?
*MUST MUST MUST MUST FLUSH THE SYSTEM WITH REFRIGERANT SOLVENT. * ( if possible)
(If its an oiled compressor! 134 is used in refrigeration and automotive)
NEVER change a compressor on an old system even with a new filter/ drier!
Evacuating for hours will remove most of the solvent liquid and vapors out, but sweep the system with 134 vapor to flush out the remaining solvent vapors!
I actually remove the coils and flush them thru with liquid solvent.
The point is to get contaminants and OLD OIL out!
Yes, in to the LOW PRESSURE SIDE, NEVER CHARGE THE HIGH SIDE, that can explode a refrigerant can.
See a P- T chart for 134 for inside) outdoor temps for correct pressures, but usually 35-45 psi on the low side. For MVA 134, probably 40/ 320 psi or similar.
There is a practice to charge to frost but thats a bit tricky
, its best to put in the specified charge weight WITH THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF OIL.
@@k8byp thank you very Much! What is the correct amount of oil. Is it written somewhere. Does it have to do with the proper charge? I tried doing the till frost thing and overcharged it and ruined the compressor.....(Plus I'd read that it should be charged to 85-95 lbs but didn't realize that was the high side,).
I dont know, the oil goes in the compressor, its focuments must tell how much. At least drain out the old oil and measure it.
Maybe the new comp already has oil?
Frost depends on temp and humidity, it may not work in dry places.
I may have been wrong about 40/320 psi, that would be for a vehicle, for a refrigerator, my Whirlpool refrigerator went to about 110.
If its a vertical refrigerator it may not be needed to flush the system.
how to differentiate between clog and low refrigerant? can you do it just with the current clamp?
A restriction should make a rise then fall in current as the compressor sucks the refrigerant in and the low side pressure drops. The time depends on the distance from the restriction and the low side compressor port and how much refrigerant is in that part of the sealed system, more volume means longer time.
Low charge means no or low load on the compressor at startup, measure the start winding current. Currrent will also be low in run.
In my heat pump, the current slowly increases thru the cooling cycle.
Measure the current profile on each system you work on to know what it should be. Current is directly related to SEER rating, BTU per KWh.
There may be a temp drop at a restriction, feel for
' cold'.
Both problems result in compressor noise, the low side isnt sucking in a steady stream of refrigerant. The TXV restriction in my heat pump caused the compressor to sound like water pipes with air bubbles.
@@k8byp i checked with current clamp and it started at .7amp and climbed to .96 amp after half an hour or so and compressor is warm, i dont feel any of the tubing being that cold, except maybe at the start of the evaporator. i'm leaning towards refrigerant leak.
But the fridge suddenly became warm i think almost instantly and all the coils were room temp. Does refrigerant leak result in complete loss of cooling? wouldn't it be a slower process instead of like a step function?
Can a leak happen that fast out of nowhere?
Leak happen that fast? Absolutely, a braze joint cracks and its under 100 psi, its gonna disappear fast, especially a fridge that only has a few ounces of refrigerant in the sealed system.
Look up "oil canning" - materials under repeated temperature and pressure stress flex back and forth. Especiallly poorly brazed joints like in my WhirlPUKE refrigerator.
If its not doing any "work" (cooling") then the current rise is due to the compressor windings heating. Thats the heat felt thru the compressor can.
The "only cold at the start of the evap" is what mine did, there is a pinhole leak at the start of the evap coil (it kept freezing there) but there just was no cooling.
It could also be a defrost system stuck on, disconnect the defrost heater and try it again after letting the compressor cool.
Theres not much refrigerant in a refrigerator system, could just dump the system and recharge it.
@@k8byp I see thanks, I will check the defrost and go buy a can of refrigerant, i already have that piercing valve kit
do you think it's worth trying a hard start kit? I noticed the compressor might be starting a little slower than before. But i don't know if it will help with the overall issue since I still see .9 amps being drawn thru the relay@@k8byp
Can i do this on the service end??? My mini fridge useies R-600a, Thanks for the video.. Ive seen all the otheres..
What is " the service end?"
600 is availiable in small cans like 134, just try to find service info on it. If not, have to do as I did in this video, charge a little at a time till the condenser is making heat
@@k8byp The end that's cut and cramped off. 4:16. Yes I have everything I'm just rewatching videos.. I had a leak that I fixed so I have to pull a vacuum and do a little bit of a different procedure.
Thats a Process Stub. Thats how they charged it originally. It may be too short to clamp a saddle valve on, might cut it and fit a compresion fitting to it. There may not be enough high side tubing to put a clamp on.
No need to vacuum, its a tiny system, just sweep it with vapor. A leak may not mean air got in.
Sweeping is putting vapor in one end of the system and discharging it at the other. The refrigerant vapor flow forces the air out. Can also do it from one point, but its more difficult, pressurize it with vapor then discharge it. Thats how I evacuated the TXV bulb with no process stub. See my TXV repair videos, Id put a Schrader valve on the cap tube using compression fittings.
I sweep the system even though its been evacuated. That basically removes any air the pump missed. More importantly, it removes water vapor.
@@k8byp ok.. I only have 3 small 6oz cans and I need to do my second fridge 2 year old Samsung full fridge with what I got. I've learned how to solder and also have a bunch of Schrader valves and just doing my last bit of homework before I go for it. I'll check out your other video.. THANKS SO MUCH!!
2 years old and it leaked? Thats pathetic!