You dont't know what you are doing but I want to thank you for putting out videos like this. You are keeping appliance repair techs and refrigeration techs in business. Just so you know the ambient temperature is used to determine the proper saturated condensing temperature not saturated suction temperature that you were seeing on that gauge. You over charged that refrigerator. Anyone thinking of doing this, I hope you have lots of money to pay to have your refrigerator fixed properly
Lol sure... He did some things wrong but if you really believe anyone's going to pay " lots and lots of money" for that crapy old fridge to get fixed, good luck buddy.
Hi. Excellent video. Technician installed piercing valve on factory port to check the refrigerant pressure. Can I use that to add R134 instead of installing new piercing valve on suction line? Thanks a lot!
WARNING DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!You way overcharged that system! When you have a proper charge and the compressor is running the low side will run right at 0psi and the high side will be around 115psi! The pressure temp you used is for standing pressure not while running through the system. The low side will run 15 to 20 degrees lower than the temp you want in the freezer(zero) and 20 degrees warmer than ambient temp(outside of fridge) to discharge heat through the condenser. If people follow your tutorial they will likely damage their compressor. I have 22 years of experience and own my own business and I have done thousands of sealed system jobs.
Please do a video and show us the right way. I need to have my fridge re-gas urgently. I'm tired asking my neighbour for ice and to keep things in her fridge for me. Urgently awaiting your video for the correct help.
@@MonsterNinjazI work on airplanes for 15 years and I still watch videos of people that work on them, you not making much sense haha I have a boat and I watch videos of people with boats too lol
How do you know how much freon to put in it and is it okay to start charging with the compressor turned off like that my compressor is completely empty I thought you had to start the compressor first before charging it with the freon
Thanks for the video. Should have purged the air out of your hose and the pressure now indicates you are overcharged (no bueno). From what I have researched the R134a pressure scale should read around -15 to -20 or 3 to 0 psi Hg. Good luck with your refrigerator, I got one to fix myself.
If the system is flat, meaning zero freon, put nitrogen 100 psi and find the leak. Fix leak. Then vacuum the system and charge it with (134a) in this case. Before transferring 134a, purge air from your automotive contraption line and then charge your system. For Charging, your compressor should be running. Not sure if these automobile charging hose with gauges are accurate. In a properly charged system, your discharge line temperature should be 20 degrees F higher than the ambient temperature.
Dear friend thanks for your videos, I need to ask something, because I'm not too much prepared about the argument, I discovered a gas leak on a little refrigerant circuit I used as air conditioner... gas is propane R290, how I can charge it? Vacuum pump is needed right?
@Carlos4998 depends on the fittings used on the R290 tank. Unfortunately, I haven't messed with R290, so I'm not sure how to service a system that uses that refrigerant.
Yes for car AC systems and normal household AC systems but DO NOT mix oils like those together as they can damage the compressors or mess up the refrigerant.
Antonio, you somehow have an r134a can that does not have a self-sealing valve. I don't know if that's a state law and your state doesn't require it or it's federal law and you have an old can from before. My state requires the self-sealing valve and the piercing hose will not open the valve without the blue adaptor. You should have the piercing needle on the hose screwed all the way down (closed) and then attach it to the can as just screwing the hose onto the can will open the self-sealing valve.
Will your amps reduce if the R134a is low? In other words, is there a way to validate using a Multimeter the amp draw as the compressor is running? If so, does each compressor have a different value? Finally, as for the gauge reading, how did you know to bring it to ~ 2 psi. I note on your gauge at the 19:04 it reads three scales of degrees Fahrenheit, one for R134a, one for R600a and one for R-290. If correct, are you saying that you need to get the leveling of the gauge reading to ~3.1 because your temperature outside is around 50F. So, since I am in my basement and it is 62F then I probably want to be 4? Was all this information on the bottle of R134a? The bottle only says "Automobile A/C, only"....but R134a gas should be the same, yes?
Yes the amperage on the compressor will be significantly lower than the normal operating current on its name plate for instance the compressor in this video should be drawing about 6 amps give or take but it was only drawing 0.98 amps also it wont be as loud as it wont be under load. On the gage its not 2 PSI that is the Bar measurement. You take the ambient temperature then go to the little Refrigerant scales and line up the Refrigerant type with the pressure. example the ambient temperature is 50ºF and im using R134a so the pressure should be about 45 PSI or just over 3 bar and if its R22 then the pressure should be just over 80 PSI or 5.5 bar. Also it doesn't matter of its a Automotive type of refrigerant as long as it doesn't contain any compressor oil or additives for automotive type AC compressors.
@@antonioadkins5104 I'm sorry but you're mistaken. The gauge is just showing low side pressure which depending on the refrigerant being used will dictate evaporating temperature which in turn will dictate the temperature of the fridge or freezer. Roughly speaking 134a at 0psi will be about -20 and at 30psi will about 32.
134 has to be put in as a liquid. It’s a blended refrigerant, and you have to purge the air out the lines. Now you’ve made your own blend and contaminated the sytem.
Hi Antonic.....me again. Will the final Bar measurement / PSIG be, for you, at 3.2 / 46 while your system is shut OFF or is it while the gauge is hooked up and the compressor is still running?
Don't worry much about the standing pressure, the working pressure is more what you need. The low side should be running between 0-2 psi not bar and not 45 psi. 45 PSI will blow you comp up in short order and if for some reason it will run you will slug the comp with liquid refrigerant.
@@suiseidel1 When should it be between 0-2 PSI? I know, when running, but I noticed that the pressure will drop as a unit runs. Gauge reads Higher the first few minutes, than after 10-15 minutes it's a bit lower. What Value should be considered? I assume the one after 15 minutes, because we NEVER want to see a vacuum. Am I correct?
The pressure number on gauge was not shown before and after charging and no clue on what pressure number to stop charging. I know its +0-3 psi but wasn't able to confirm with your video.
Does anyone know why my pressure gauge is reading 70 psi when I open up the piercing valve to get an initial read? Definitely not showing up as negative pressure. I’m 99% positive I’m installed on the suction line.
I did not as this was an experiment but the fridge is working fine as of now. but I should note that I put a disclaimer as I am not a professional at this and this was my first time doing something like this.
Servicing a system with a leak thats gone flat has air in the loop. Adding refrigerant before repairing the leak and or pulling it into a vacuum is not recommended. Air = moisture which will eventually cause acid equalling in a compressor burnout.
Do not do it. It will ruin the sealed system. Pearcing Valve is going to leak 100% You must use brazing equipment,scale,nitrogen ,to work with sealed system. 1.Recover Freon. 2.Vacuum the system ( see if it change the pressure) 3. Add nitrogen 4.check for any leak 5.clear the restriction. Replace dried filter 6.vacuum again. 7. Add refrigerant by weigh.gauges will not do it right.
In California, my 3year old frig lost its cooling. The techs out here won't recharge the system, so the New frig will be going to the dump if I don't fix it. It's dyi or landfill, only two choices!
You put way too much pressure inside it! You misunderstand the temperature indication on the gauge. The temperature value you read on the gauge is for the fluid/vapor mix temperature inside the evaporator since you measure the pressure from the low pressure side of the compressor (the intake). If you want to reach low temperature (which is what we want in a fridge), you put way too much pressure in the system as with what you did, you will reach just something like 30-40° in the fridge and maybe break the compressor. For a freezer, you would expect below zero temp in the evaporator, so the pressure you should put inside should read something close to Zero PSI and maybe somewhere like negative 5-7 Hg (-1 to -2 PSI) instead, all measured with the compressor running for getting very low temperature. Pressure can go up to a few PSI for higher temperatures (for a fridge only, not a freezer), but no way near what you put in yours. Also, when you plug the hose on the fridge, you should purge it from air before opening the valve on the fridge otherwise you may put some air in the fridge circuit which is really not good.
Is it actually OK, if the pressure becomes slightly negative, or is it generally better st stay al low on the positive as possible? I assume a negative pressure will increase compressor load and power consumption?
Есть заправочный патрубок , только с ним и надо работать . Его можно пережать ниже проколки и запоять . Глупо лезть в нормальный трубопрвод и делать в нем дыры . ПОНИМАШ .
You totally are doing all wrong you have over charged the system. Properly charged it should have 3psi in it. And you should have had the back panel off in the freezer while charging it, you have a restriction in the system
The EPA will fine you $10000 for every instance of recharging without repairing the leak first. Also they will fine you if you are not properly certified for refrigerant recovery and evacuation. This is only due to appliance manufacturers getting together and lobbying the EPA to do this. They don't care about automotive unless you are a shop.
You dont't know what you are doing but I want to thank you for putting out videos like this. You are keeping appliance repair techs and refrigeration techs in business. Just so you know the ambient temperature is used to determine the proper saturated condensing temperature not saturated suction temperature that you were seeing on that gauge. You over charged that refrigerator. Anyone thinking of doing this, I hope you have lots of money to pay to have your refrigerator fixed properly
In California, they will not fix your leak! It's DIY, or the garbage dump!
Lol sure... He did some things wrong but if you really believe anyone's going to pay " lots and lots of money" for that crapy old fridge to get fixed, good luck buddy.
OMG!!! Thank you sooooo much!!! 🙌🙌🙌 I wish all of the tutorials were as simple and real as yours. You save me a lot of money 🙌
Wrong preassure! Frig should have 3psi max when running!
Hi. Excellent video. Technician installed piercing valve on factory port to check the refrigerant pressure. Can I use that to add R134 instead of installing new piercing valve on suction line? Thanks a lot!
Yes absolutely
WARNING DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!You way overcharged that system! When you have a proper charge and the compressor is running the low side will run right at 0psi and the high side will be around 115psi! The pressure temp you used is for standing pressure not while running through the system. The low side will run 15 to 20 degrees lower than the temp you want in the freezer(zero) and 20 degrees warmer than ambient temp(outside of fridge) to discharge heat through the condenser. If people follow your tutorial they will likely damage their compressor. I have 22 years of experience and own my own business and I have done thousands of sealed system jobs.
I hope people that look at this video heed your words .
Please do a video and show us the right way. I need to have my fridge re-gas urgently. I'm tired asking my neighbour for ice and to keep things in her fridge for me. Urgently awaiting your video for the correct help.
Then why are you even watching this video with that much experience?
@@MonsterNinjazthats like asking a car builder why is he watching a video of another car builder 😂
@@MonsterNinjazI work on airplanes for 15 years and I still watch videos of people that work on them, you not making much sense haha I have a boat and I watch videos of people with boats too lol
How do you know how much freon to put in it and is it okay to start charging with the compressor turned off like that my compressor is completely empty I thought you had to start the compressor first before charging it with the freon
What is the final stabilized pressure is? Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Should have purged the air out of your hose and the pressure now indicates you are overcharged (no bueno). From what I have researched the R134a pressure scale should read around -15 to -20 or 3 to 0 psi Hg. Good luck with your refrigerator, I got one to fix myself.
Where do you put the pircing valve between the 3 pipes
On the suction side or low pressure side.
how do you expel the air that is in the circuit?
in order to completely remove any air that may be in the system is to use a vacuum pump.
hi, is the fridge still working?
Yep still working good
If the system is flat, meaning zero freon, put nitrogen 100 psi and find the leak. Fix leak. Then vacuum the system and charge it with (134a) in this case.
Before transferring 134a, purge air from your automotive contraption line and then charge your system. For Charging, your compressor should be running.
Not sure if these automobile charging hose with gauges are accurate. In a properly charged system, your discharge line temperature should be 20 degrees F higher than the ambient temperature.
Dear friend thanks for your videos, I need to ask something, because I'm not too much prepared about the argument, I discovered a gas leak on a little refrigerant circuit I used as air conditioner... gas is propane R290, how I can charge it? Vacuum pump is needed right?
@Carlos4998 depends on the fittings used on the R290 tank. Unfortunately, I haven't messed with R290, so I'm not sure how to service a system that uses that refrigerant.
@@antonioadkins5104 I see... but I read that the valve you used in the video is also used for R290 systems
Do you need to put AC oil? In cars' AC system they pot PAG oil, not sure about this appliance.
Yes for car AC systems and normal household AC systems but DO NOT mix oils like those together as they can damage the compressors or mess up the refrigerant.
My Daewoo refrigerator says to use R-600 refrigerant. Can I use R-135 instead?
no
Antonio, you somehow have an r134a can that does not have a self-sealing valve. I don't know if that's a state law and your state doesn't require it or it's federal law and you have an old can from before.
My state requires the self-sealing valve and the piercing hose will not open the valve without the blue adaptor. You should have the piercing needle on the hose screwed all the way down (closed) and then attach it to the can as just screwing the hose onto the can will open the self-sealing valve.
Will your amps reduce if the R134a is low? In other words, is there a way to validate using a Multimeter the amp draw as the compressor is running? If so, does each compressor have a different value?
Finally, as for the gauge reading, how did you know to bring it to ~ 2 psi. I note on your gauge at the 19:04 it reads three scales of degrees Fahrenheit, one for R134a, one for R600a and one for R-290. If correct, are you saying that you need to get the leveling of the gauge reading to ~3.1 because your temperature outside is around 50F. So, since I am in my basement and it is 62F then I probably want to be 4? Was all this information on the bottle of R134a? The bottle only says "Automobile A/C, only"....but R134a gas should be the same, yes?
Yes the amperage on the compressor will be significantly lower than the normal operating current on its name plate for instance the compressor in this video should be drawing about 6 amps give or take but it was only drawing 0.98 amps also it wont be as loud as it wont be under load. On the gage its not 2 PSI that is the Bar measurement. You take the ambient temperature then go to the little Refrigerant scales and line up the Refrigerant type with the pressure. example the ambient temperature is 50ºF and im using R134a so the pressure should be about 45 PSI or just over 3 bar and if its R22 then the pressure should be just over 80 PSI or 5.5 bar. Also it doesn't matter of its a Automotive type of refrigerant as long as it doesn't contain any compressor oil or additives for automotive type AC compressors.
Wrong!! Your amps will be higher
@@travisorth9933No, you're wrong.. The less fuel the less work the compressor has to do.. The more fuel the more work (amps) the motor needs to run.
@@antonioadkins5104 I'm sorry but you're mistaken.
The gauge is just showing low side pressure which depending on the refrigerant being used will dictate
evaporating temperature which in turn will dictate the temperature of the fridge or freezer.
Roughly speaking 134a at 0psi will be about -20 and at 30psi will about 32.
@@antonioadkins5104😢
134 has to be put in as a liquid. It’s a blended refrigerant, and you have to purge the air out the lines. Now you’ve made your own blend and contaminated the sytem.
Charging with R-134a can be done either as a vapor or a liquid, it is not a blend it is a pure refrigerant
With a samsung what us happening whe the return line freeze up
Hi Antonic.....me again. Will the final Bar measurement / PSIG be, for you, at 3.2 / 46 while your system is shut OFF or is it while the gauge is hooked up and the compressor is still running?
Gauge connected and compressor running
@@antonioadkins5104 🤗
134afrge sustion 1.93. Discharge200.5only mor enot mor e no high triping not cooling
Don't worry much about the standing pressure, the working pressure is more what you need. The low side should be running between 0-2 psi not bar and not 45 psi. 45 PSI will blow you comp up in short order and if for some reason it will run you will slug the comp with liquid refrigerant.
@@suiseidel1 When should it be between 0-2 PSI? I know, when running, but I noticed that the pressure will drop as a unit runs. Gauge reads Higher the first few minutes, than after 10-15 minutes it's a bit lower. What Value should be considered? I assume the one after 15 minutes, because we NEVER want to see a vacuum. Am I correct?
What is you gauge peeasure of unit how much it
Now I understand why my fridge compressor is noisy. Inlet line should be negative pressured for it to be silent.
You are my today hero :D Thank you !
The pressure number on gauge was not shown before and after charging and no clue on what pressure number to stop charging. I know its +0-3 psi but wasn't able to confirm with your video.
Does anyone know why my pressure gauge is reading 70 psi when I open up the piercing valve to get an initial read?
Definitely not showing up as negative pressure. I’m 99% positive I’m installed on the suction line.
How long did your compressor last? Did your purge your hose before introducing the freon into the system?
I did not as this was an experiment but the fridge is working fine as of now. but I should note that I put a disclaimer as I am not a professional at this and this was my first time doing something like this.
@@antonioadkins5104 hi is the fridge still working? i wonder how much does it really affect the fridge without purging the hose first.
Not Complet video very important part was missed . He did not show running pressure while it was showing low Freon
It sprays because you need to tighten the valve all the way down first, when using the blue adapter.
I used the blue adapter, and it didn’t spray.
This is so crazy never ever saw it done this way
You should have pulled a vacuum on it first to see if you indeed did have a leak.
I know but didn't have the equipment to do that.
Servicing a system with a leak thats gone flat has air in the loop. Adding refrigerant before repairing the leak and or pulling it into a vacuum is not recommended. Air = moisture which will eventually cause acid equalling in a compressor burnout.
Not bad for a 5 dollar fridge, wonder if the blue corrosion on the lines will get worse similar to rust on a car
Do not do it. It will ruin the sealed system.
Pearcing Valve is going to leak 100%
You must use brazing equipment,scale,nitrogen ,to work with sealed system.
1.Recover Freon.
2.Vacuum the system ( see if it change the pressure)
3. Add nitrogen
4.check for any leak
5.clear the restriction. Replace dried filter
6.vacuum again.
7. Add refrigerant by weigh.gauges will not do it right.
Ur talking about replacing a whole compressor
In California, my 3year old frig lost its cooling. The techs out here won't recharge the system, so the New frig will be going to the dump if I don't fix it. It's dyi or landfill, only two choices!
@@artymowski Now in California, no dumping old fridges in the Landfills, that's now illegal.
@@travelguy1564 Take them to Gavin Newsomes front lawn and leave them there.
You put way too much pressure inside it! You misunderstand the temperature indication on the gauge. The temperature value you read on the gauge is for the fluid/vapor mix temperature inside the evaporator since you measure the pressure from the low pressure side of the compressor (the intake). If you want to reach low temperature (which is what we want in a fridge), you put way too much pressure in the system as with what you did, you will reach just something like 30-40° in the fridge and maybe break the compressor. For a freezer, you would expect below zero temp in the evaporator, so the pressure you should put inside should read something close to Zero PSI and maybe somewhere like negative 5-7 Hg (-1 to -2 PSI) instead, all measured with the compressor running for getting very low temperature. Pressure can go up to a few PSI for higher temperatures (for a fridge only, not a freezer), but no way near what you put in yours. Also, when you plug the hose on the fridge, you should purge it from air before opening the valve on the fridge otherwise you may put some air in the fridge circuit which is really not good.
Is it actually OK, if the pressure becomes slightly negative, or is it generally better st stay al low on the positive as possible? I assume a negative pressure will increase compressor load and power consumption?
I read that these small compressor's should have 3psi, not 50psi!!!!
Есть заправочный патрубок , только с ним и надо работать . Его можно пережать ниже проколки и запоять . Глупо лезть в нормальный трубопрвод и делать в нем дыры . ПОНИМАШ .
So thats what that noise was upside down eh... ? noted ...
You are showing us the gauge but not explaining what we are seeing.
You totally are doing all wrong you have over charged the system. Properly charged it should have 3psi in it. And you should have had the back panel off in the freezer while charging it, you have a restriction in the system
I agreed with you . He doesn't has experience how to fill the Freon in
Much blushing
The EPA will fine you $10000 for every instance of recharging without repairing the leak first. Also they will fine you if you are not properly certified for refrigerant recovery and evacuation. This is only due to appliance manufacturers getting together and lobbying the EPA to do this. They don't care about automotive unless you are a shop.
Is this a prank video?🤔
funny
He sucks he shouldn’t be doing this of work
Thai made junk now