"I have no data and I don't know what's wrong?!" Install an AFR meter and EGT. You might be running lean. After that, start looking at an oil cooler with oversized lines for extra oil capacity, then a rad. Your oil temps were high and that's concerning
Terry Martin ∆∆∆ This, guys, this you have a tuning problem. Don't throw money at it and give up. Data log and find out what the problem is. I know several people who run low 13s in a stock 3 valve... with no mods. 14.3 is embarrassingly ridiculous.
Enjoying the Mullet Mustang vids guys! Here in Edmonton at 600m above sea level I ran a 13.6 @ 105 in my 2010 3v. JLT intake, 94 bama tune, longtubes and Roush cat back. It's also an auto with stock 3.15 gear ratio. I would have thought the Mullet would have destroyed my time with the cams and the fact that you're at a much lower elevation. Somethings going on with that thing.
My 2010 has 160,000kms on the engine and is running as strong as ever, I can't say the same for the tranny tho as it needs some love. With proper maintenance the engine wear is minimal. My day at the track consisted on 10 straight runs one after the other with plenty of heat soak in 28 degree Celsius weather and never ran slower than 13 seconds. Who's to say what kind of life Speed Academy's Mustang lived before their ownership tho right? It's definitely not running right here considering it puts down 320+ wheel horsepower...
I am glad you put out failures and successful videos. You provide a place where conversation is created with the viewer. I shared the black Civic videos with 5 others who really enjoyed it. Thanks for your time and looking forward to your future content.
We thought about pulling the hood off and may still try that if it's still running hot next time out. We've already upgraded the radiator, back in about Ep3 of this series :D
Speed Academy fingers crossed any changes you make will sort it out.. But looks like you'll have to make a fair few changes to drastically reduce the Temps.. 1 lap and heat issues is a big issue.. Best of luck.. Look forward to seeing what you do..
Put in a GT500 hood scoop, decent radiator and some ducting, I think you do need not much more. It would be a total shame if you guys do not beat the boss' time. Give the Mullet some more love!
aDaWaN Lmao, hood scoops do not aid in cooling the engine. They actually create negative pressure in the engine compartment. That means the air does not move. Hood scoops are meant to feed the intake for cars that have itb's, or top mount carburetors/intercoolers. Now they are just for looks.
I have a 2005 Mustang GT with a K&N cold air intake, Bama Tune, and axle back exhaust. I live in central Florida and haven't had any signs of heat soak issues while ripping around on the street, drag strip, and autocrossing. With that being said I haven't had the chance to take it to a track. I would suggest checking to make sure all of the cooling systems are working correctly. I've really enjoyed the series, keep up the good work, and good luck!
use pure alcohol, the pump will last way longer. also isopropyl alcohol is best because its higher octane than methanol, burns a bit cooler and isnt toxic
E-85 by itself wont do much unless the car is re tuned to take advantage. You can't run gas on an E-85 tune it will flood & foul the plugs visa versa gas tune won't run on E-85 ingition would be massively retarded to what you need on E-85. unburnable lean on a gas AFR.
Learn how to drive if you ya can’t keep a mustang straight! Sick of morons who think they can drive & give mustang owners a bad rep. Love the channel guys!
Don't give up... what was the DA? Try prepped track at night with less humidity; a drag setup (15x8 275/50) like you promised back in November; and less granny shifting PT.
Running a high volume cokd air intake with the tune it takes to make it sit decently at idle with cams... makes you run extremely rich and hot sparks... with an aluminum block, it quickly becomes and issue without a blower.. and with that comes another can of worms. Really tge only way to build these with the consistent power you want is a motor pull, honed out, rods, pistons and bottom end while you have it out. Limitations of the 3v with how modular they made the assembly lines. Makes for an extremely reliable and decently priced maintenance life cycle for a daily driver. Looks good, sounds good, feels good.
52mm rad and no AC condenser keeps my little LS1 happy all day/night long regardless of temp. Not running the auto cooler through the rad helps. Never saw engine temps above 91C, except when parked in traffic(might hit 94C stopped in traffic, both fans running)
Some things that you can check out is a performance oil pump, thicker radiator, lower temp thermostat and vented hood. It would also help to either wrap or ceramic coat those new headers.
Don't think the launches get any better than that, bit of wheel spin out of the hole to get the revs up then she hooks up :) Maybe try taking the headlight out on the intake side?
bring out to Queensland Australia and run it mid-winter, with max temps usually about 20 degrees C the air and track temps are ideal for fast laps. nice cold air for the intake, not so cold the tyres don't come up to temp.
Firstly, my B18C Civic goes down the 1/4 mile quicker lmao. and it was set up for circuit duty. Secondly, never set your expectations high before going to a track day, always set them super low. To the point that you don't expect anything other than coming home in one piece.
Have 07 GT. Try larger radiator, larger oil pan, tiger racing hood, subframe connectors, & 3 link with torque arm, better for s197 than 4 link. Look at Cortex racing, not whiteline, stick with stock sway bar plus a-arm brace from boss 302 with these mods made. Hope this helps. Years of s197.
Check the vtec solenoid, if that doesn't work re-jet the Holley. If your still experiencing issues it might be time to go full bridgeport and an oil cooler cooler.
does the car still have a stock differential in it? if so, it needs to be swapped out for something better that will actually put the power down coming out of the tight corners ... the added power is useless here
They changed it in previous episodes.I think it was EP07 and EP08.The changed it to a 4.10.They also put a Watts Link,Whiteline rear control arms and polyurethane bushings while rebuilding the rear end
Woo track footage! The build series are my favorite. The disappointment on PT's face hahaha The Mustang looks so heavy on the track in comparison to the other stuff you guys have ran
it's summer; how about Throttle body coolant by pass and TB gasket (not more whp, but less heat soak); intake manifold phenolic spacer and some setrab oil coolers! also, sorry if this is obvious, but did u try lowering the tire pressures for both the track and the strip?
No extra mods options: 1) bag of ice over the engine between runs (although that works mainly on boosted aplications) 2) run just after the temp. drop after dusk (when the pavement is still relatively hot) 3) prep surface 4) play with tire pressure between runs 5) Improve shifting times 6) take out the back seats (last case scenario) feel free to keep up adding options below...
Pull the hood and try it! Works for the roadkill guys. If you are having heat soak problems upgrade the cooling system, vent the hood so it can get rid of some of the heat. Make it so the air intake can get fresh cool air. If it's not sealed off from the engine compartment good enough it's just going to suck in hot engine compartment air and kill power. And if you are still having issues then either add water/meth injection or convert it to run on E85. And if you still can't figure it out sell it to a Mustang guy/gal.
Get a bigger radiator guys that should help. At the end of the day racing is racing you need to take the good with the bad. Great video guy's keep it up.
Run it with out hood to see if heat soak is really the problem. It's a free way to check, before you spend more money. I know these cars respond really well with 4.10 gears too.
They are supported by turn 14 not sponsored.They get a discount not free parts is the difference. That's why I haven't suggested a SC/ Procharger ,Paxton, Vortec, etc A CF hood is a hefty chuck of change for at best marginal improvement. The happy possibility is (cooler day= lower times), magic problem All gone, POOF! So might be that the smart move is wait for better weather cooler day higher barometric pressure (acts like lower elevation=denser air more o/2 in the cylinders more gas to keep AFR in check bigger boom more pwr). good luck guys have really enjoyed the MM STANG. You have already exceeded my expectaions on pwr from that 3valve turd. For what ever reason Fords mod motor has been a cronic under performer till the Coyote. Which finally is delivering on the promise of all those cams and valves.
Cam in combo with heat. I'm not sure what has been done on it, but it was mentioned of cams. If the duration was changed, it bumps torque band higher in the RPM. You want more lift and closer to stock duration. Higher in the RPM you stay that faster it will build heat. Easiest thing to do is get a better radiator, if undoing some of the mods is not an option. Butt dyno measures torque not HP. torque is what you feel.
Track Spec Motorsports hood louvers will help with brining the oil/coolant temps down; that alone is surely pulling tons of timing. IAT will also improve but the "hot air intake" effect will go up if the vent is placed directly over it. Maybe try boxing the filter and somehow pulling cold air from the bumper somewhere. Maybe gold wrap the intake to see if it resists heat soaking too. Tons of small stuff can help this situation and squeeze as much jam out of it as possible for lapping. Also lol at Pete's waterbox burnout fail XD
Charge motion Delete plates and underdrive pulleys are pretty easy and cheap mods to stick on this car for a few extra ponies. You could also try converting it to E85 -- It only requires bigger injectors and a tune for it, and it will run cooler.
Remove the underbonnet insulation(If fitted) and any other pointless plastic trimmings as they restrict airflow. Fitting bonnet/hood vents and lifting the bonnet/hood at the rear helps massively to release underbonnet heat.
Don't pack it in just yet guys, lots of good suggestions from a water Meth kit to venting heat out through an after market hood and bigger rad. Either way, this was more testing and should be looked at as such. Don't let the hard work go to waste until the heat problem is sorted. This should be as quick as you guys hope.
Take the hood off! You'll get nothing but the coolest air, and weight reduction. If it isn't faster you know the mods didn't work. If it is faster, you know where the trouble lies.
All you need is to manage the underhood heat. All the World Challenge and IMSA Mustang racers use vented hoods like the one sold by Tiger Racing. Hot air out = cooler operating temps, better areo and more power.
Heat management is probably the issue guys. Even do there is a cold air intake its still really sucking hot air from the engine bay as with the hood closed heat soak is always going to occur. Maybe looking into a headlight intake or even an over the radiator intake design along with airflow into and out of the engine bay should help heaps.
Dang that's crazy results! Don't give up now. Keep the Mullet ALIVE! What about that Canton oil pan that was left out? More oil more Cooling! Bigger oil cooler too! Yeeha!
i might be wrong but i have a 05 gt whrn i bought it i took it to the drag strip here in houston texas and ram a 13.0 to a 13.4 with stock tires and a cold air intake and a tune from bama. Now it has coil overs and a bunch of othere stuff i haven't taken it to the track lately caus im chaseimg a diff problem idk wht to tell yall. I would keep trying till you get there
Water/Methanol could be a possible solution, thermostat, bigger rad, dual rad fans, oil cooler.. Can't add power on stock cooling capabilities, specially for track purposes. I'm no track pro or master mechanic but from what I've learned, when you beef power, you've GOT to beef the cooling along with it as well.
From what you guys said, the IAT's are too high. Looks like you need a better solution for your intake. My Silvia isn't having heat soak issues, but my IAT's can climb up during track sessions. I will have to make an air box that is lined with gold reflective tape. I think making a better airbox, lined with heat reflecting tape and having ducting routed to force feed cooler air will help in your situation as well. Also a vented hood might help to clear some of that hot air out from the engine bay.
DavisSgt I agree that meth injection is an option, however I'm just against any thing extra that runs out over time such as meth or NOS. Just my preference.
Since everyone is throwing in their two cents......: I'd say your best bet would be an oil cooler, some kind of water/meth or E85 or race fuel, and a better/bigger rad. Used to run into heating issues with my 3v although I honestly never bothered to fix it.
What oil are you guys running? I work at a Ford dealer, and for track or high performance usage Ford recommends their Motorcraft full synthetic 5w50. From EcoBoost 4 cylinders to 6.2 Supercharged Roush Raptor engines. You can use whatever brand your heart desires, but for better oil temp management you should definitely be running 5w50 in the summer.
Get a hood scoop over the intake. Will improve the time a bit. There MUST be something wrong with it. My old 1.9TDI (131hp chipped to 180hp) Passat from 2002 ran a 14.60s at 132km/h.. Also weight reduction would be not bad. How much does it weigh?
3500 lbs is the factory curb weight rating. We've taken a bit of weight out with the racing bucket and a few other mods, so we may be at 3400 lbs so she's still no exactly a lightweight.
try to add a bigger oil cooler with a vented bonnet and some ducting to the intake agent 47 have a insert were you can remove 1 headlight to get better air temp to the intake and lastly a high blanket under the intake manifold to help reduce the heat transfer from the engine
Easy fix! Paint the brake calipres red, add a type-R badge and add a giant wing on the back. Oh and carbon fibre vinyl wrap. 8 second quarter mile, no sweat. Done.
Keep the mustang. Its the weather conditions that were letting you down. Test it again at the same time of year you tested the car in the first place. You could also let the car completely cool in the shade between runs with the bonnet open and a bag of ice on the intake manifold (This really works, I owned a bf xr8 with the same 5.4 modular motor.) Lower the rear tyre pleasures to 15 psi and when you launch fan the clutch at 4500 rpm and you will run a 12.99.
It should not be able to heatsoak efter 14 seconds. Does the engine detect knocking/preignition? Fuel should be alright if your dyno guy used a wideband lamda.
My 92 LX ran 13.8@100'ish with only lower and upper control arms, 3.73 R&P gear, and Nitto DR's. Would have died if I tried taking it on a road course though. Fox body brakes were the worst due to excessive nose-dive and rear drums.
The R888r are much heavier that the Kumhos. They eat up much of the power advantages. Try a lighter tire like a michelin cup 2 ore pirelli trofeo r... But first get the engine cooler, trow all unnecessary things out of the car and check the alignment of the suspension... BTW i would love it so much to do a trackday with you guys!
That generation Mustang is notorious for not having proper cooling, for engine and brakes. Only thing I can think of, is to make the scoop more functional, to introduce gobs of cold air to the engine block. When the block is how, that's how power seeps away during a hot lap or a strip run. Just my opinion.
Stock form (+ intake and tune) you can feel these motors heat soak when driven harder than normal. personal findings anyway. Give it a shot with some lower ambient temps to enjoy your build more so. you both looked to be having fun driving it until you saw the numbers after all.
You've already go a lot of advise on what you should do next, and it's more mods! I just ask that you don't give up in this Mustang, it's got a lot of potential. If you ever need any other advise join the FB page Corner Ponies.
I'd say do cheap/free mods to get the car flowing and cooling a little better. maybe some DIY cutting of ducts in the hood or front bumper, etc, or something. Might just give you an edge and could potentially cost nothing :)
re-do that oilcooler setup in such a way that it auto-bleeds any air out of it. remove the coolant thermostat. te-do the intake so it ONLY takes in air from outside the car, preferably the front airdam because that is a pressurised area. It should help induction.
maybe also consider a shorter axel ratio, that way the engine will be on-cam earlier and you can actually rev it out in top gear when you drag the car.
I'd got a 2005 Mustang GT with 182,000 kms on it, and it was having the same low power problems that you guys seem to have here--it would pull like a freight train off the line, and then pull timing, as if it was in protection mode, and then pull like a freight train again at higher RPM's, as if nothing was wrong. Did you guys ever datalog the 1/4 mile runs? Like with MAF voltage and spark timing and other parameters, to see if it was pulling timing? I suspect a MAF problem, or a dirty/ broken MAF. Even if you checked it once, you should have checked it a couple of times. Just spraying the MAF with cleaner isn't enough; you need to get a Q-Tip or a small brush to clean off any dirt, oil, dust and grime. I would have started with a datalog of some key parameters, including MAF voltage, spark timing and knock sensors. You should see a spike on the MAF volts when you press the throttle, even at normal regular driving speeds. A dirty MAF is enough to create a whole bunch of problems that won't necessarily throw a check engine light but bad enough to cause some issues; idle problems, transmission shifting issues, etc. I suspect your car would play nice on the dyno, but under real life high load conditions, that the MAF was buggering your air/ fuel enough that you were never getting the right reading to begin with.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but your oil pressure gauge looks like it's going bananas mid corner. Is it just oil demand from the active cams or is it actually starving? Especially on your fast lap coming back onto the straight.
Oil cooler, Wrap headers, Vented Hood, Thicker Radiator, Dual Radiator electric fans.
Skargun bingo
Cars Guns and Guitars Bango
Bungo
I think it has an oil cooler already.
MrDruaboyea2U didn't they mount it upside down?
See how it runs without a bonnet if heat is your problem. It will just show if you need more ventilation in the engine bay or not.
"I have no data and I don't know what's wrong?!"
Install an AFR meter and EGT. You might be running lean.
After that, start looking at an oil cooler with oversized lines for extra oil capacity, then a rad.
Your oil temps were high and that's concerning
Terry Martin ∆∆∆ This, guys, this you have a tuning problem. Don't throw money at it and give up. Data log and find out what the problem is. I know several people who run low 13s in a stock 3 valve... with no mods. 14.3 is embarrassingly ridiculous.
Greg Thomas look at your 60 ft times. If the mph is there, then the time is gained or lost out of the hole.
L C part of the problem is hes shifting slow AF. If you want killer times, you got to beat that thing like a rented mule.
driver mod lol
But they've dyno tuned it, so it can't be leaning out
you guys should look into a way to introduce could air to the intake. like having a complete cold air that runs into the bumper
if the engine is just burning out only real solution is fresh cold air.
Enjoying the Mullet Mustang vids guys! Here in Edmonton at 600m above sea level I ran a 13.6 @ 105 in my 2010 3v. JLT intake, 94 bama tune, longtubes and Roush cat back. It's also an auto with stock 3.15 gear ratio. I would have thought the Mullet would have destroyed my time with the cams and the fact that you're at a much lower elevation. Somethings going on with that thing.
Mike Lasenby its overheating and pulling timing probably
hotlap heatsoak and all those miles destroy performance. and auto is often prefered on the strip, less driver errors possible :)
My 2010 has 160,000kms on the engine and is running as strong as ever, I can't say the same for the tranny tho as it needs some love. With proper maintenance the engine wear is minimal. My day at the track consisted on 10 straight runs one after the other with plenty of heat soak in 28 degree Celsius weather and never ran slower than 13 seconds. Who's to say what kind of life Speed Academy's Mustang lived before their ownership tho right? It's definitely not running right here considering it puts down 320+ wheel horsepower...
Hi Mike! It's Stephen!
driftedgecko steeeeve!
I am glad you put out failures and successful videos. You provide a place where conversation is created with the viewer. I shared the black Civic videos with 5 others who really enjoyed it. Thanks for your time and looking forward to your future content.
Vents everywhere, let it breath... Bigger Radiator?
Take the hood off #RoadKill style :D
We thought about pulling the hood off and may still try that if it's still running hot next time out. We've already upgraded the radiator, back in about Ep3 of this series :D
Speed Academy fingers crossed any changes you make will sort it out.. But looks like you'll have to make a fair few changes to drastically reduce the Temps.. 1 lap and heat issues is a big issue.. Best of luck.. Look forward to seeing what you do..
Breathe*
Put in a GT500 hood scoop, decent radiator and some ducting, I think you do need not much more. It would be a total shame if you guys do not beat the boss' time. Give the Mullet some more love!
aDaWaN Lmao, hood scoops do not aid in cooling the engine. They actually create negative pressure in the engine compartment. That means the air does not move. Hood scoops are meant to feed the intake for cars that have itb's, or top mount carburetors/intercoolers. Now they are just for looks.
I think he meant a vent (see: gt500 hood vents). I can't recall any shelby in recent years that came with a hood scoop, they're all vented though
MrDruaboyea2U Yeah, Shelby GT500 vent. This is placed at the very front of the hood and really helps to move air through the radiator
I have a 2005 Mustang GT with a K&N cold air intake, Bama Tune, and axle back exhaust. I live in central Florida and haven't had any signs of heat soak issues while ripping around on the street, drag strip, and autocrossing. With that being said I haven't had the chance to take it to a track. I would suggest checking to make sure all of the cooling systems are working correctly.
I've really enjoyed the series, keep up the good work, and good luck!
Work on the cooling, and enjoy it on the track. Chasing numbers is a futile endeavor. Enjoy the car for what it is.
Jeffrey Ball That's why I love drifting, just fun not chasing numbers.
unless you like problem solving to gain hundredths and built consistency, in which case chase away
Try a water/methanol injection kit! Maybe that can help it run cooler despite the heat of the track
LenierEusoj yeah, IAT's will be cooler & timing can be turned up. Should get a tune to take advantage.
use pure alcohol, the pump will last way longer. also isopropyl alcohol is best because its higher octane than methanol, burns a bit cooler and isnt toxic
William Sampson true, might as well add e85 mix too. Those 2 alone should get them closer to 12's. Maybe driver mod. 😂 rolling tires in the water 😂
E-85 by itself wont do much unless the car is re tuned to take advantage. You can't run gas on an E-85 tune it will flood & foul the plugs visa versa gas tune won't run on E-85 ingition would be massively retarded to what you need on E-85. unburnable lean on a gas AFR.
Inked Buddhist they've said before they don't want to do E85 because it's not really available in Canada.
On the bright side, at least there were no crowds hanging around. That Mustang was clearly in a bad mood #SAVETHEPEOPLE 🙌
+
I guess it was just too hot this day. It sure does not seem slow on video!
TassieLorenzo yeah i agree. I know its definitely faster than that.
Learn how to drive if you ya can’t keep a mustang straight! Sick of morons who think they can drive & give mustang owners a bad rep. Love the channel guys!
Don't give up... what was the DA? Try prepped track at night with less humidity; a drag setup (15x8 275/50) like you promised back in November; and less granny shifting PT.
Running a high volume cokd air intake with the tune it takes to make it sit decently at idle with cams... makes you run extremely rich and hot sparks... with an aluminum block, it quickly becomes and issue without a blower.. and with that comes another can of worms. Really tge only way to build these with the consistent power you want is a motor pull, honed out, rods, pistons and bottom end while you have it out. Limitations of the 3v with how modular they made the assembly lines. Makes for an extremely reliable and decently priced maintenance life cycle for a daily driver. Looks good, sounds good, feels good.
Just ran my bone stock 2001 Mustang GT (Auto) 14.3 @ 96 lol my last bolt on 2003 GT did 12.89 @105.
52mm rad and no AC condenser keeps my little LS1 happy all day/night long regardless of temp. Not running the auto cooler through the rad helps. Never saw engine temps above 91C, except when parked in traffic(might hit 94C stopped in traffic, both fans running)
Some things that you can check out is a performance oil pump, thicker radiator, lower temp thermostat and vented hood. It would also help to either wrap or ceramic coat those new headers.
There have already been tons of suggestions for the fixes and I feel that taking the necessary steps to keep the car cool would be very worth it
Don't think the launches get any better than that, bit of wheel spin out of the hole to get the revs up then she hooks up :) Maybe try taking the headlight out on the intake side?
bring out to Queensland Australia and run it mid-winter, with max temps usually about 20 degrees C the air and track temps are ideal for fast laps. nice cold air for the intake, not so cold the tyres don't come up to temp.
Firstly, my B18C Civic goes down the 1/4 mile quicker lmao. and it was set up for circuit duty.
Secondly, never set your expectations high before going to a track day, always set them super low. To the point that you don't expect anything other than coming home in one piece.
Black intake tube running all the way across the radiator. Looks good for intake temps.
Have 07 GT. Try larger radiator, larger oil pan, tiger racing hood, subframe connectors, & 3 link with torque arm, better for s197 than 4 link. Look at Cortex racing, not whiteline, stick with stock sway bar plus a-arm brace from boss 302 with these mods made. Hope this helps. Years of s197.
Check the vtec solenoid, if that doesn't work re-jet the Holley. If your still experiencing issues it might be time to go full bridgeport and an oil cooler cooler.
does the car still have a stock differential in it? if so, it needs to be swapped out for something better that will actually put the power down coming out of the tight corners ... the added power is useless here
They changed it in previous episodes.I think it was EP07 and EP08.The changed it to a 4.10.They also put a Watts Link,Whiteline rear control arms and polyurethane bushings while rebuilding the rear end
Woo track footage! The build series are my favorite. The disappointment on PT's face hahaha
The Mustang looks so heavy on the track in comparison to the other stuff you guys have ran
it's summer; how about Throttle body coolant by pass and TB gasket (not more whp, but less heat soak); intake manifold phenolic spacer and some setrab oil coolers! also, sorry if this is obvious, but did u try lowering the tire pressures for both the track and the strip?
No extra mods options:
1) bag of ice over the engine between runs (although that works mainly on boosted aplications)
2) run just after the temp. drop after dusk (when the pavement is still relatively hot)
3) prep surface
4) play with tire pressure between runs
5) Improve shifting times
6) take out the back seats (last case scenario)
feel free to keep up adding options below...
You should turn up the VTEC
Always a good plan.
Oil cooler. Water wetter. Better ducting for radiator. Vented hood for greater air flow across engine. Ram air style intake.
I know my local road course can be 4sec slower per lap on a hot / humid day. Bring that mullet back in September for another go!!
Pull the hood and try it! Works for the roadkill guys.
If you are having heat soak problems upgrade the cooling system, vent the hood so it can get rid of some of the heat. Make it so the air intake can get fresh cool air. If it's not sealed off from the engine compartment good enough it's just going to suck in hot engine compartment air and kill power. And if you are still having issues then either add water/meth injection or convert it to run on E85.
And if you still can't figure it out sell it to a Mustang guy/gal.
Get a bigger radiator guys that should help. At the end of the day racing is racing you need to take the good with the bad. Great video guy's keep it up.
Run it with out hood to see if heat soak is really the problem. It's a free way to check, before you spend more money. I know these cars respond really well with 4.10 gears too.
Put some washers on the hood mount to give it a little gap and let some heat out. Or just get a vented CF hood, save some weight off the front.
They are supported by turn 14 not sponsored.They get a discount not free parts is the difference. That's why I haven't suggested a SC/ Procharger ,Paxton, Vortec, etc A CF hood is a hefty chuck of change for at best marginal improvement.
The happy possibility is (cooler day= lower times), magic problem All gone, POOF! So might be that the smart move is wait for better weather cooler day higher barometric pressure (acts like lower elevation=denser air more o/2 in the cylinders more gas to keep AFR in check bigger boom more pwr).
good luck guys have really enjoyed the MM STANG. You have already exceeded my expectaions on pwr from that 3valve turd. For what ever reason
Fords mod motor has been a cronic under performer till the Coyote.
Which finally is delivering on the promise of all those cams and valves.
Cam in combo with heat. I'm not sure what has been done on it, but it was mentioned of cams.
If the duration was changed, it bumps torque band higher in the RPM. You want more lift and closer to stock duration.
Higher in the RPM you stay that faster it will build heat.
Easiest thing to do is get a better radiator, if undoing some of the mods is not an option.
Butt dyno measures torque not HP. torque is what you feel.
Put washers on between your hood bolts I did it on my sn95 and it dropped the temp quite a bit letting the air escape lol
Track Spec Motorsports hood louvers will help with brining the oil/coolant temps down; that alone is surely pulling tons of timing. IAT will also improve but the "hot air intake" effect will go up if the vent is placed directly over it. Maybe try boxing the filter and somehow pulling cold air from the bumper somewhere. Maybe gold wrap the intake to see if it resists heat soaking too. Tons of small stuff can help this situation and squeeze as much jam out of it as possible for lapping.
Also lol at Pete's waterbox burnout fail XD
Charge motion Delete plates and underdrive pulleys are pretty easy and cheap mods to stick on this car for a few extra ponies. You could also try converting it to E85 -- It only requires bigger injectors and a tune for it, and it will run cooler.
weight reduction!!!
You talking about Dave or the Mustang?
Speed Academy ouch, burn. Lol
Remove the underbonnet insulation(If fitted) and any other pointless plastic trimmings as they restrict airflow. Fitting bonnet/hood vents and lifting the bonnet/hood at the rear helps massively to release underbonnet heat.
Don't pack it in just yet guys, lots of good suggestions from a water Meth kit to venting heat out through an after market hood and bigger rad. Either way, this was more testing and should be looked at as such. Don't let the hard work go to waste until the heat problem is sorted. This should be as quick as you guys hope.
Take the hood off! You'll get nothing but the coolest air, and weight reduction. If it isn't faster you know the mods didn't work. If it is faster, you know where the trouble lies.
i put an edlebrock water pump and a mishimoto thermostat in my 3v gt and it kept it too cool! its unreal it works crazy
All you need is to manage the underhood heat. All the World Challenge and IMSA Mustang racers use vented hoods like the one sold by Tiger Racing. Hot air out = cooler operating temps, better areo and more power.
Heat management is probably the issue guys. Even do there is a cold air intake its still really sucking hot air from the engine bay as with the hood closed heat soak is always going to occur. Maybe looking into a headlight intake or even an over the radiator intake design along with airflow into and out of the engine bay should help heaps.
At 13:58 "there are no more mods"
This disappoints me!!
Dang that's crazy results! Don't give up now. Keep the Mullet ALIVE! What about that Canton oil pan that was left out? More oil more Cooling! Bigger oil cooler too! Yeeha!
Edd Arell I think they already put it on off film
i might be wrong but i have a 05 gt whrn i bought it i took it to the drag strip here in houston texas and ram a 13.0 to a 13.4 with stock tires and a cold air intake and a tune from bama. Now it has coil overs and a bunch of othere stuff i haven't taken it to the track lately caus im chaseimg a diff problem idk wht to tell yall. I would keep trying till you get there
Only Cams doesn't shave of a second of the quarter mile... the car did not disappoint. Mullet Mustang is still the best build
Could ask calabogie motorsport park what they do to theres for cooling because there cars seem to run pretty consistant and get beaten on.
Keep these episodes coming!!! MULLET MUSTANG 4 LIFE
Water/Methanol could be a possible solution, thermostat, bigger rad, dual rad fans, oil cooler.. Can't add power on stock cooling capabilities, specially for track purposes. I'm no track pro or master mechanic but from what I've learned, when you beef power, you've GOT to beef the cooling along with it as well.
Put a few washers under the rear bolts of the bonnet to vent the temps out.
From what you guys said, the IAT's are too high. Looks like you need a better solution for your intake. My Silvia isn't having heat soak issues, but my IAT's can climb up during track sessions. I will have to make an air box that is lined with gold reflective tape. I think making a better airbox, lined with heat reflecting tape and having ducting routed to force feed cooler air will help in your situation as well. Also a vented hood might help to clear some of that hot air out from the engine bay.
Complete Custom Cars You could also run a methanol/water injection kit to cool down the intake temperature and get more power
DavisSgt I agree that meth injection is an option, however I'm just against any thing extra that runs out over time such as meth or NOS. Just my preference.
i loved this project, give it another try please. Maybe the tune is the problem?
Since everyone is throwing in their two cents......: I'd say your best bet would be an oil cooler, some kind of water/meth or E85 or race fuel, and a better/bigger rad. Used to run into heating issues with my 3v although I honestly never bothered to fix it.
What oil are you guys running? I work at a Ford dealer, and for track or high performance usage Ford recommends their Motorcraft full synthetic 5w50. From EcoBoost 4 cylinders to 6.2 Supercharged Roush Raptor engines. You can use whatever brand your heart desires, but for better oil temp management you should definitely be running 5w50 in the summer.
Get a hood scoop over the intake. Will improve the time a bit. There MUST be something wrong with it. My old 1.9TDI (131hp chipped to 180hp) Passat from 2002 ran a 14.60s at 132km/h..
Also weight reduction would be not bad. How much does it weigh?
3500 lbs is the factory curb weight rating. We've taken a bit of weight out with the racing bucket and a few other mods, so we may be at 3400 lbs so she's still no exactly a lightweight.
try to add a bigger oil cooler with a vented bonnet and some ducting to the intake agent 47 have a insert were you can remove 1 headlight to get better air temp to the intake and lastly a high blanket under the intake manifold to help reduce the heat transfer from the engine
V8's run hotter than your usual stuff, that's a fact, so cool it more, and enjoy !
Easy fix! Paint the brake calipres red, add a type-R badge and add a giant wing on the back. Oh and carbon fibre vinyl wrap. 8 second quarter mile, no sweat. Done.
Keep the mustang. Its the weather conditions that were letting you down. Test it again at the same time of year you tested the car in the first place. You could also let the car completely cool in the shade between runs with the bonnet open and a bag of ice on the intake manifold (This really works, I owned a bf xr8 with the same 5.4 modular motor.) Lower the rear tyre pleasures to 15 psi and when you launch fan the clutch at 4500 rpm and you will run a 12.99.
It should not be able to heatsoak efter 14 seconds.
Does the engine detect knocking/preignition?
Fuel should be alright if your dyno guy used a wideband lamda.
So my TT with a remap did the same time (that was like 10 years ago), and it had like 100hp less... Looks really fun tho in the bends
Damn... that last turn on this track is crazy dangerous with that wall right outside the exit. I can only imagine how many cars die there every year.
You should go head to head with the Stang and S2 around the track. That would be a episode to watch. Just keep that in mind.
My 92 LX ran 13.8@100'ish with only lower and upper control arms, 3.73 R&P gear, and Nitto DR's. Would have died if I tried taking it on a road course though. Fox body brakes were the worst due to excessive nose-dive and rear drums.
Didn't they use gps to get their quarter mile times last time? GPS is not a good measure vs the timed track times.
You say it did get any faster, but with that said I bet it is more consistent with all the parts over more road course laps.
Everyone loves an underdog. Maybe a bigger radiator and an oil cooler. I'm a VW guy and I've still found this series interesting.
try cooling mods. oil cooler, bigger radiator, channeling air through your engine with a gusseted hood?
The R888r are much heavier that the Kumhos. They eat up much of the power advantages. Try a lighter tire like a michelin cup 2 ore pirelli trofeo r... But first get the engine cooler, trow all unnecessary things out of the car and check the alignment of the suspension...
BTW i would love it so much to do a trackday with you guys!
That generation Mustang is notorious for not having proper cooling, for engine and brakes. Only thing I can think of, is to make the scoop more functional, to introduce gobs of cold air to the engine block. When the block is how, that's how power seeps away during a hot lap or a strip run. Just my opinion.
do you have a summary of all the mods with the before and after?
Stock form (+ intake and tune) you can feel these motors heat soak when driven harder than normal. personal findings anyway.
Give it a shot with some lower ambient temps to enjoy your build more so. you both looked to be having fun driving it until you saw the numbers after all.
You've already go a lot of advise on what you should do next, and it's more mods!
I just ask that you don't give up in this Mustang, it's got a lot of potential. If you ever need any other advise join the FB page Corner Ponies.
I'd say do cheap/free mods to get the car flowing and cooling a little better. maybe some DIY cutting of ducts in the hood or front bumper, etc, or something. Might just give you an edge and could potentially cost nothing :)
Heat management is one of the main challenges. Take it on. Would be interesting also.
re-do that oilcooler setup in such a way that it auto-bleeds any air out of it.
remove the coolant thermostat.
te-do the intake so it ONLY takes in air from outside the car, preferably the front airdam because that is a pressurised area. It should help induction.
maybe also consider a shorter axel ratio, that way the engine will be on-cam earlier and you can actually rev it out in top gear when you drag the car.
I ran a 14.2 with 20" Foose wheels when I got my slightly modded 06?
If Houston with the heat around 95 and humidity the same a friends car with about the same upgrade plus intake was 13.04
13 s are fast... What is the beef? Try a smaller diameter rear wheel tire combo to get you more torque. you should get low 13's
Anything to do with that oil cooler being upside down from when it was installed?🤔
Don't quit, did some much already. Give The 3v guys some hope.
Hood vents, that's where you want to start, cheap and easy and efffective
Honestly possibly even getting cooler running plugs or changing the plug gap could help with a few degrees.
You guys should do a USDM Legends series too. would like to see a return of badass corner muscle cars.
Meanwhile we are ecstatic if Buttonwillow and Thunderhill are below 95F during the spring and summer lol
vent hood, then maybe coat headers, and add ducting to rad like you did to the grip s14 if you haven't already done so
I'd got a 2005 Mustang GT with 182,000 kms on it, and it was having the same low power problems that you guys seem to have here--it would pull like a freight train off the line, and then pull timing, as if it was in protection mode, and then pull like a freight train again at higher RPM's, as if nothing was wrong. Did you guys ever datalog the 1/4 mile runs? Like with MAF voltage and spark timing and other parameters, to see if it was pulling timing?
I suspect a MAF problem, or a dirty/ broken MAF. Even if you checked it once, you should have checked it a couple of times. Just spraying the MAF with cleaner isn't enough; you need to get a Q-Tip or a small brush to clean off any dirt, oil, dust and grime. I would have started with a datalog of some key parameters, including MAF voltage, spark timing and knock sensors. You should see a spike on the MAF volts when you press the throttle, even at normal regular driving speeds. A dirty MAF is enough to create a whole bunch of problems that won't necessarily throw a check engine light but bad enough to cause some issues; idle problems, transmission shifting issues, etc. I suspect your car would play nice on the dyno, but under real life high load conditions, that the MAF was buggering your air/ fuel enough that you were never getting the right reading to begin with.
Have you checked your timing marks? If it skipped a tooth on the chain then power loss will occur but the car will still run and drive.
Wrap the intake with a heatshield mat?
Did you use a cooler thermostat?
Gear changes are slow. Is this due to the gearbox or the gate design?
The gearbox is a tank to shift, trust me I tried my best to bang a gear. the 2-3 shift takes SO long to complete.
Did the aftermarket cams move your power band (and redline) up?
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but your oil pressure gauge looks like it's going bananas mid corner. Is it just oil demand from the active cams or is it actually starving? Especially on your fast lap coming back onto the straight.
The oil pressure is actually higher than most cars we've seen but apparently its normal.
Team Speed makes some Jam on the track! 🇨🇦
@speedacademy what wheels are on it in this vid?? Definately not the ones you put on it in another video. They look awesome.
Those are GramLights wheels, we had them for another project and ended up throwing them on the stang!
@@speedacademy you are the man!!! They look sick. Can't believe I got a response. Who am I talking to?
@@Thomasrollins_ This time its Pete :)
@@speedacademy alright, man. I appreciate it!
@@speedacademy last question, hope you'll answer one more time. At what altitude are you guys?
try it with the OEM intake? maybe the aftermarket one is drawing in hot air from the engine bay.
oil cooler/ hoot cut out/ fat radiator/ cold air intake scoop