we used to do this as well, but more like 350 to 400 sq ft at a time,plus we brushed on the oxide pigment into the silicon mold, we still colored our cement with the oxide dyes. Our mixes had 1/4" to 3/8" aggregate size stones, as well as fiberglass fiber added. Our admixtures were duracem and polarset. Duracem simply made the mix easier to pour and work with, the polarset just made it cure quicker, like in 1/2 the time. On any given day we would produce about 8500 to 9000 sq ft a day.. But then the "Housing Bubble" collapsed, and then that was the end of that! Buddy tells me that everyone showed up for work but found the doors closed and locked, and a note that said the GM would come to explain. 35 people lost their job just like that. I was smart and left for a new job about 9 mo earlier. The others didn't handle it too well.
Top man, you can tell how knowledgeable you are in this field. Given me the motivation to have a go and maybe set up a side hustle selling some ornaments .
Very informative, and you do a great job at explaining the process. I'm making flagstones using concrete mix and molds, and I've been wanting to add some streaks of green and reddish iron oxide to make them look more like real stones. Your video showing the "paint it in the mold" method is just what I've been looking for. Thanks!
Nice job I didn’t know about this technique with pouring concrete in silicone stone molds !I just got done installing 70 square ft of ledger stone behind a wood burning stove !Good video
I mixed acrylic paints with a concrete penetrating sealer and it worked pretty well. Still had to add a clear sealer on top of it though, mainly to protect the finish a little more. It made some interesting looking countertops that are holding up pretty well so far. Epoxy makes an awesome concrete finish too, especially for countertops or floors.
@@GlobMarble Actually I was going for an exotic marble look. We used a fluid art technique (dirty pour/straight pour) to get the desired effect. The counters are doing well so far, they've been holding up to normal cleaning. I am concerned that the clear coat will eventually start to break down and I'll have to re-do it, but that's not unusual for concrete or stone countertops. I have hand painted cultured stone before. I've got about 30 or so molds that I use for different projects. I have not tested this mix on exterior applications though. Generally, when I'm painting stone I go for a non-uniform look to more closely mimic real stones.
Thats cool, I could see this being used for countertops, but it would be little too time consuming for mass produced wall stones. Could you send me a picture of the countertop at Sales@globmarble.com?
@@GlobMarble Yeah, I'm not sure how well it would work for mass production. Although, I don't think it would be much slower than painting the molds, it would just be after the stones had cured for a bit. I'll have some videos up hopefully soon. I've got some pictures though, I'll be happy to send them over. :)
I have been looking for the right caps for my pond wall. I watched both beginner videos and will make the molds up this weekend. I did not know about the difference between store pre-mixed and concrete and self mixed cement and sand. I will definitely self mix. Now off to watch the vibration table video.
Thank you Vlad for the excellent tutorial! I cast a stone panel using the pigment painting method, but I think I picked pigments that were too different and I didn't think it looked natural, so I used a stain overtop and I think it looks better. I also tried the first method and really like that look especially after using sandpaper to scuff the edges to look more natural. I have to wait a few more days before I can apply sealant and then I will post my results. Keep making great videos!
Sounds great! The scuff marks will disappear after you seal but you can just scuff up the sealed surface again. By the way, do you mind if we post your video on some of our other social media platforms?
@@GlobMarble Thank you for the tips on the scuff and seal! Sure you can post my video I don't mind at all! Your videos have helped inspire me to keep at making veneer even when I've made mistakes and been frustrated. So I hope I can give back too and help other newbies get over the challenges of starting out. I have done a lot of DIY renovations to my house over the last 9 years so that inspires me to want to make more videos to help people learn some construction tips.
I would like to see an explanatory video of the Ledgestone mold LS 2001/1 and Stone Veneer Molds VS 101/2 .. I have in mind to make an investment in those molds, I would like to see the result and installation of the stones. Thanks Globmarble! keep in that way! greetings from Argentina!
You are the first to show this in detail. Very helpful. Could you maybe show you to produce the lighter colors like tans? The rocks local to my area are very light in color and I would like to try and match those as best I can.
Wow, thank you so much Vlad. I have been looking for this for some time now. You taught me so well and I'm really gearing up to do wonders in my house. Keep it up brother.
@@GlobMarble I would like to see an explanatory video of the Ledgestone mold LS 2001/1 and Stone Veneer Molds VS 101/2 .. I have in mind to make an investment in those molds, I would like to see the result and installation of the stones. Thanks Globmarble! keep in that way! greetings from Argentina!
Thanks for the comment! I usually use a 2 parts sand to 1 part cement mix ratio. In the description of the video I have links to all tools and materials I used. The molds all have specific casting weights of each part in the website description, check it out
Well done and very informative, I am looking to make some freehand stone slabs for a water feature, moulds to retain basic shape only and then hand trowel end result. The colour techniques you demonstrated I will use to best advantage to achieve a near natural look.
I like the idea of wall stones. Could be very modern and contemporary. Forgive my ignorance but how would you mount those since you didn’t imbed hardware into the wet cement?
Using the G1 release agent allows our molds to be casted thousands of times. Any other product may work in the short term but may ruin the molds and cost you much more money in the long run
The stones in this video are for external use. Every mold on our website has a detailed mixing guide with exact quantities of cement, sand, superplasticizer and water to use with each mold. You can find our molds here- globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/
So effective and practical..Thanks. I appreciate if you can tell me that , Are we heating the bricks in the oven/fire to make it hard after it gets dry?
Hello. Nice work. I am fron Dominican Republic. I am trying to start with triste Kind of work. But the big problem I have know is the way to protect the Stone. Please, I would like that you recomend me a product that I can buy in amazon to protect stone against water. Thank 😊
The easiest way is to use a sealer. We sell acrylic sealers which are UV resistant here- globmarble.com/decorative-concretes/concrete-sealers/acrylic-sealers2/
Nice tutorial! I hope you are able to give me advice. I bought face split tiles, I expected to be beige/cream colour but they are more white/grey. Any idea how to colour them? Thanks
I would recommend going with one of our stain options (the method I used for the white stone). We have many stain color options; you can check them out here- globmarble.com/water-based-concrete-stain-eco-stain.html
nice video. we manufacture stone as well. it's interesting and educational to see how other people are doing it. Your stone looks great. Are there certain pigment colors that are used more than others for body color? We either use no pigment or 3447 buff color. Trying new mix colors is on our to do list.
We don't actually manufacture the stone; we just manufacture and sell the molds. Some of our bestselling pigments are 8084, 6804, 160, and 6130. You can find them here- globmarble.com/concrete-color-oxide-pigment.html
A sealer will turn it even darker. The best way to ballpark how your concrete will look like with a sealer on it is to just wet it with water. A sealer would also remove the sandpaper antiquing effect. I should have mentioned it in the video but you don't need a sealer for the first method, none of the color will fade or rub off on your clothes or hands when you touch it like it would if you would use method 2 or 3 :)
Whose molds to you think are the most realistic look for River stone or a stacked stone? I am wondering if you have ever poured multiple shades of concrete in the same mold to create a more variegated look?
We have a mold for river stones, you can find it here- globmarble.com/river-rock-mold-rs-4001.htmlif you would like to see the coloring method you are talking about I mentioned it in this video- th-cam.com/video/qTl2A2g1Llw/w-d-xo.html
No concrete requires water curing, but water curing will always make the concrete stronger. So in short, water curing is not required but will still give you great benefits.
no you are not vibrating too much. chances are you need to add a plasticizer to reduce water / bubble amount - globmarble.com/concrete-additive-water-reducer-super-plasticizer.html
Thanks for the great video, I have a question. I always see air void on top surface no matter how long I vibrate it in the molds. Your stones didn't have any, what's your suggestions for me to prevent air void?
Do you use premixed concrete? Most premixed concretes will always give you voids. This is why we recommend using a 1 part cement, 2 parts sand mix with some superplasticizer which is measured at a 1% of cement weight dosage. The superplasticizer makes the mix much more liquid without making it any weaker. Also for large scale productions, we recommend using a vibration table. This will greatly reduce the amount of time you need to vibrate. All of these products could be found on our website.
We ship world wide!! Every mold I used is in the description but you can choose from all of our molds here- globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/
Great work bro. I live in Zimbabwe and just ventured into this business, unfortunately we dont have all the stains and sealants available here. Would it be possible to export to Zimbabwe? And I would really like to know what you use to wash your moulds after production especially when you want to change colours?
You could use some stones which aren't as long and place them in a circular fashion around the wall (check out our castle stones) globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/castle-stone-molds/ or you can physically bend the mold like seen in this video- th-cam.com/video/5HbsmFgdz0g/w-d-xo.html
It wouldn't be the same because the oxide pigments will clog up your spray bottle, they will settle to the bottom of your water much quicker, and you wont get the same results every time. To be safe, use the stains and oxide pigments as designed :)
@@GlobMarble I relay like the first method when you give shadows with the sandpaper! But if you put the sealer on the stone will be black as before or not?
Yes, we sell all of the products you see me using in the video. I have all the molds and pigments I used in the description of the video, but you can also check out all of our other molds here- globmarble.com/
You can use either cement with sand, or plaster of paris. plaster of paris is for indoor stones only, you cannot use plaster stones for exterior surfaces
If I already have stone made from concrete that’s on my house is there a good way to color it? I used a cleaner that was recommended to clean grout off the stone, which it did but it also took the color off the stone.
we used to do this as well, but more like 350 to 400 sq ft at a time,plus we brushed on the oxide pigment into the silicon mold, we still colored our cement with the oxide dyes. Our mixes had 1/4" to 3/8" aggregate size stones, as well as fiberglass fiber added. Our admixtures were duracem and polarset. Duracem simply made the mix easier to pour and work with, the polarset just made it cure quicker, like in 1/2 the time. On any given day we would produce about 8500 to 9000 sq ft a day.. But then the "Housing Bubble" collapsed, and then that was the end of that! Buddy tells me that everyone showed up for work but found the doors closed and locked, and a note that said the GM would come to explain. 35 people lost their job just like that. I was smart and left for a new job about 9 mo earlier. The others didn't handle it too well.
I'm just amazed! The quality of your hand craft is 5 stars!! Great content! Great Ideas!!
Glad I could help!!
Top man, you can tell how knowledgeable you are in this field. Given me the motivation to have a go and maybe set up a side hustle selling some ornaments .
You should! Its very straightforward and the learning curve is not steep at all :)
Ok super look; I’ve got 12 molds with color but haven’t started yet. This video is the most clear for me to understand, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative, and you do a great job at explaining the process. I'm making flagstones using concrete mix and molds, and I've been wanting to add some streaks of green and reddish iron oxide to make them look more like real stones. Your video showing the "paint it in the mold" method is just what I've been looking for. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I actually found that information about comments affecting the algorithm to also be interesting. Great content as well! =)
Thanks!!!
Nice job I didn’t know about this technique with pouring concrete in silicone stone molds !I just got done installing 70 square ft of ledger stone behind a wood burning stove !Good video
Glad I could help!
I mixed acrylic paints with a concrete penetrating sealer and it worked pretty well. Still had to add a clear sealer on top of it though, mainly to protect the finish a little more. It made some interesting looking countertops that are holding up pretty well so far. Epoxy makes an awesome concrete finish too, especially for countertops or floors.
That's interesting, I never heard of this technique. Did the color come out uniform, or were there light spots and dark spots in different areas?
@@GlobMarble Actually I was going for an exotic marble look. We used a fluid art technique (dirty pour/straight pour) to get the desired effect. The counters are doing well so far, they've been holding up to normal cleaning. I am concerned that the clear coat will eventually start to break down and I'll have to re-do it, but that's not unusual for concrete or stone countertops. I have hand painted cultured stone before. I've got about 30 or so molds that I use for different projects. I have not tested this mix on exterior applications though. Generally, when I'm painting stone I go for a non-uniform look to more closely mimic real stones.
Thats cool, I could see this being used for countertops, but it would be little too time consuming for mass produced wall stones. Could you send me a picture of the countertop at Sales@globmarble.com?
@@GlobMarble Yeah, I'm not sure how well it would work for mass production. Although, I don't think it would be much slower than painting the molds, it would just be after the stones had cured for a bit.
I'll have some videos up hopefully soon. I've got some pictures though, I'll be happy to send them over. :)
Very creative, beautiful work. 😊
Glad you liked it!
thanks for showing different effects to choose from
Glad you liked it!
Excellent explanations and demonstrations. You're a true craftsman. Thank you.
I appreciate that!
I can't get enough of these!
Thanks! There are more to come :)
I have been looking for the right caps for my pond wall. I watched both beginner videos and will make the molds up this weekend. I did not know about the difference between store pre-mixed and concrete and self mixed cement and sand. I will definitely self mix. Now off to watch the vibration table video.
Awesome! By the way, we also sell vibration motors and tables, not just molds- globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone-making-equipment/
Thank you Vlad for the excellent tutorial! I cast a stone panel using the pigment painting method, but I think I picked pigments that were too different and I didn't think it looked natural, so I used a stain overtop and I think it looks better. I also tried the first method and really like that look especially after using sandpaper to scuff the edges to look more natural. I have to wait a few more days before I can apply sealant and then I will post my results. Keep making great videos!
Sounds great! The scuff marks will disappear after you seal but you can just scuff up the sealed surface again. By the way, do you mind if we post your video on some of our other social media platforms?
@@GlobMarble Thank you for the tips on the scuff and seal!
Sure you can post my video I don't mind at all! Your videos have helped inspire me to keep at making veneer even when I've made mistakes and been frustrated. So I hope I can give back too and help other newbies get over the challenges of starting out.
I have done a lot of DIY renovations to my house over the last 9 years so that inspires me to want to make more videos to help people learn some construction tips.
You are very clear in explaining I appreciate your video
Glad it was helpful!
I would like to see an explanatory video of the Ledgestone mold LS 2001/1 and Stone Veneer Molds VS 101/2 .. I have in mind to make an investment in those molds, I would like to see the result and installation of the stones. Thanks Globmarble! keep in that way! greetings from Argentina!
Thanks! I have a video for LS 2001 in mind, stay tuned for it! :)
That’s an excellent video. I appreciate the detail and clarity!
Glad it was helpful!
You are the first to show this in detail. Very helpful. Could you maybe show you to produce the lighter colors like tans? The rocks local to my area are very light in color and I would like to try and match those as best I can.
Thanks!! The methods are all the same, and we have tan colors available. The link is in the description :)
Nice job! Wish you choose liter colors to work with.
I recommend using light colors with white concrete, not gray
ZThanks for sharing I’ve been wanting to do this for a long time and just didn’t know what all it involved you made it look very simple
Glad it was helpful!
Looks very good . I'll look at your website to get supplies
Good luck on your project!!
Wow, thank you so much Vlad. I have been looking for this for some time now. You taught me so well and I'm really gearing up to do wonders in my house. Keep it up brother.
Glad I could help! Stone manufacturing is easier than it sounds :)
Really awesome work bro, thanks for teaching us
Glad you liked it!!
Excellent! I have already bought two molds. this information is very useful
Glad it was helpful! Do you have suggestions for a next video you'd like to see?
@@GlobMarble I would like to see an explanatory video of the Ledgestone mold LS 2001/1 and Stone Veneer Molds VS 101/2 .. I have in mind to make an investment in those molds, I would like to see the result and installation of the stones. Thanks Globmarble! keep in that way! greetings from Argentina!
Great teaching teacher ~ Mister Walter
Thanks!
Hi Vlad. Could you do video about how to do light weight concert stones please. Thank you
AWESOME tutorial!! Going to love being creative and experimenting!
Please do!
Hola muy lindo tu trabajo quería saber cómo preparas el modelo marrón que proporciones de materiales usas muchas gracias saludos desde Argentina
Thanks for the comment! I usually use a 2 parts sand to 1 part cement mix ratio. In the description of the video I have links to all tools and materials I used. The molds all have specific casting weights of each part in the website description, check it out
Nice. I especially like the forms where you won't see a straight line when the pieces are installed.
Most of our forms are like that, only a few don't have the stepped edge
That was a great video and definitely answer few questions I had. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Looks good considering your molds for a outdoor fire place I'm going to build
If you do I would really like to see a picture of the finished product!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, dude. Great videos, hope you get a lot of followers. Thank you!
Thanks man, I really appreciate it!
Interesting color options. I would think the dyes in the concrete would be a longer lasting solution. The sealer DOES make a difference.
Doing both is best. The sealer locks in and protects all the colors
Excellent, Just what I was looking for !!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the video, very informative with great examples!
Glad you found it helpful!
Well done and very informative, I am looking to make some freehand stone slabs for a water feature, moulds to retain basic shape only and then hand trowel end result. The colour techniques you demonstrated I will use to best advantage to achieve a near natural look.
Sounds great! Good luck!
I like the idea of wall stones. Could be very modern and contemporary. Forgive my ignorance but how would you mount those since you didn’t imbed hardware into the wet cement?
You would attach them to a wall with either mortar mix or with Constuction adhesive. I will publish a video about it soon :)
Enjoyed your video, exactly what I was looking for....keep them coming!!
Thanks, there are more to come!!
Awesome craftmanship!
Thanks!!
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your videos. From Cyprus
Thanks for watching!
Thank you that was helpful. Can anything replace the release agent i know its not cheap ?
Using the G1 release agent allows our molds to be casted thousands of times. Any other product may work in the short term but may ruin the molds and cost you much more money in the long run
love it!!!!! my favorite method was the 1st one i love how the black looks!
Thanks! Do you have suggestions for a next video you'd like to see?
هل هذه الحجر التي صنعتها تستعمل داخليا ام خارجيا
The stones in this video are for external use. Every mold on our website has a detailed mixing guide with exact quantities of cement, sand, superplasticizer and water to use with each mold. You can find our molds here- globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/
So effective and practical..Thanks.
I appreciate if you can tell me that , Are we heating the bricks in the oven/fire to make it hard after it gets dry?
Not at all. You just need the concrete to sit for a week before application to finish its curing process.
just the video i needed! keep up the good work my man.
Thanks man, good luck!
Way to go Mr. smart guy I love it, keep going!
Thanks, that was a good tutorial with a lot of the information in one video.
Glad I could help :)
I've been looking for just this information! Thanks so much for sharing it
Glad it was helpful!
Hi there: I saw your video, looks great.For the beginners,how to start making this product?What kind of material needed?
All of the tools and materials are in the description of the video
i think I will be watching more of your videos.
Glad you like the videos!
Thanks - do you think you could do one with more charcoal and light sections? Kind of a glacial black color they sell?
Can you add the stain right after removing from the mold? And of course then wait at least a week to seal...?
Yup, that's what I usually do :)
I’m looking forward to trying this out
Thanks for the video
Good luck!
Hello. Nice work. I am fron Dominican Republic. I am trying to start with triste Kind of work. But the big problem I have know is the way to protect the Stone. Please, I would like that you recomend me a product that I can buy in amazon to protect stone against water. Thank 😊
The easiest way is to use a sealer. We sell acrylic sealers which are UV resistant here- globmarble.com/decorative-concretes/concrete-sealers/acrylic-sealers2/
Nice tutorial! I hope you are able to give me advice. I bought face split tiles, I expected to be beige/cream colour but they are more white/grey. Any idea how to colour them? Thanks
I would recommend going with one of our stain options (the method I used for the white stone). We have many stain color options; you can check them out here- globmarble.com/water-based-concrete-stain-eco-stain.html
@@GlobMarble thanks 🙂
Great work man, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
nice video. we manufacture stone as well. it's interesting and educational to see how other people are doing it. Your stone looks great. Are there certain pigment colors that are used more than others for body color? We either use no pigment or 3447 buff color. Trying new mix colors is on our to do list.
We don't actually manufacture the stone; we just manufacture and sell the molds. Some of our bestselling pigments are 8084, 6804, 160, and 6130. You can find them here- globmarble.com/concrete-color-oxide-pigment.html
@JHG please which materials do you use for casting your stones asides sand and cement?
Can I add crushed granite powder to get a harder stone?
excellent channel mate!
Glad you enjoy it!
I relay like the first method when you give shadows with the sandpaper! But if you put the sealer on the stone will be black as before or not?
A sealer will turn it even darker. The best way to ballpark how your concrete will look like with a sealer on it is to just wet it with water. A sealer would also remove the sandpaper antiquing effect. I should have mentioned it in the video but you don't need a sealer for the first method, none of the color will fade or rub off on your clothes or hands when you touch it like it would if you would use method 2 or 3 :)
very clear - thanks for posting
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful job: You’re very talented, you selling molds.
Glad you liked it!
Whose molds to you think are the most realistic look for River stone or a stacked stone? I am wondering if you have ever poured multiple shades of concrete in the same mold to create a more variegated look?
We have a mold for river stones, you can find it here- globmarble.com/river-rock-mold-rs-4001.htmlif you would like to see the coloring method you are talking about I mentioned it in this video- th-cam.com/video/qTl2A2g1Llw/w-d-xo.html
Great videos, learning a lot! Thank you!
Glad you like them!
Great work
Thanks!
pretty cool, gave me some ideas. cheers bro!
Glad I could help!
Woow Is Very Nice To Know How paint , Thanks Alots , I Like Your Videos Thank Again For All ¡¡¡
Thanks man, I try to make better videos for the subscribers every day :) Do you have suggestions for a next video you'd like to see?
Can you make a video about color charts
Good job on explanations!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow those look great! I’ll check out your store.
Thanks!
Thank You for the excellent video bro... I like all your videos..... Thank you once again
Thanks a lot man!! It means a lot, I try to make every video better than the last, whether it be the explaining, editing, or anything else :)
Nice video. I learned a lot
Glad you liked it!
Nice and informative video. I have one question though... Your concrete slabs don't require curing inside water?
No concrete requires water curing, but water curing will always make the concrete stronger. So in short, water curing is not required but will still give you great benefits.
Thank you so much I also want to see more!
Thanks! More coming soon :)
Any advice on air bubbles? I'm using a fitness vibration plate. But I'm getting loads of air bubbles. Am I vibrating it too much?
no you are not vibrating too much. chances are you need to add a plasticizer to reduce water / bubble amount - globmarble.com/concrete-additive-water-reducer-super-plasticizer.html
Thanks for the great video, I have a question. I always see air void on top surface no matter how long I vibrate it in the molds. Your stones didn't have any, what's your suggestions for me to prevent air void?
Do you use premixed concrete? Most premixed concretes will always give you voids. This is why we recommend using a 1 part cement, 2 parts sand mix with some superplasticizer which is measured at a 1% of cement weight dosage. The superplasticizer makes the mix much more liquid without making it any weaker. Also for large scale productions, we recommend using a vibration table. This will greatly reduce the amount of time you need to vibrate. All of these products could be found on our website.
Cheers for great idea mate.
Any time!
thanks this is the business I need to start
Good luck!!!!
vary very informative
I would like to do this business with my existing crusher setup in India
Guide me
We ship our molds worldwide :)
Awesome job, thanks for inspiring me 😊👍
I'm glad you liked it!!
Great work Could ceramic tile with a stone design be stain
No
Excellent
From where I can get your stone mold from UAE
We ship world wide!! Every mold I used is in the description but you can choose from all of our molds here- globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/
Great work bro. I live in Zimbabwe and just ventured into this business, unfortunately we dont have all the stains and sealants available here. Would it be possible to export to Zimbabwe? And I would really like to know what you use to wash your moulds after production especially when you want to change colours?
We ship world wide :) The best way to clean is with our G1 release agent. The sooner you clean it, the easier it will wash off.
Pave Doctor Pvt Ltd, can I get in touch with you? I live in Nigeria
Great informative video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Is there a method to use those molds to create a round wall? I want to build a round water feature.
You could use some stones which aren't as long and place them in a circular fashion around the wall (check out our castle stones) globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/castle-stone-molds/ or you can physically bend the mold like seen in this video- th-cam.com/video/5HbsmFgdz0g/w-d-xo.html
@@GlobMarble thanks for getting back to me. I'll check out those links.
How can I color existing artificial stone? For example, making a sandstone colored stone into something that is dark gray?
Easiest way would be to stain it :)
Great video thanks for the walk through 👌🏼
Any time!
Nice work
Thanks!!
This is dope love it !!!!!!
Thanks :)
Good work man!
Appreciate it!
Hai I m raghu from india .,.. I m very impressive of ur videos ... I want those moulds , is it possible ?
Yes, we ship internationally. You can find the links to the products in the description
Thanks for the advice
Any time!
Whats the difference stain and oxide pigment? If you mix pigments with water pretty much same?
It wouldn't be the same because the oxide pigments will clog up your spray bottle, they will settle to the bottom of your water much quicker, and you wont get the same results every time. To be safe, use the stains and oxide pigments as designed :)
Very good video! When you brush the pigment into the mold need to mix with water or just the pigment powder?
Thanks! They were dry in the cup, and they got mixed in with the liquid release agent that I sprayed on the surface :)
@@GlobMarble I relay like the first method when you give shadows with the sandpaper! But if you put the sealer on the stone will be black as before or not?
Cool video. Where can I purchase some of those molds pls?
You can find all of our molds here- globmarble.com/concrete-stones/concrete-stone/
To find all the materials I used you can check the description of the video
Very informative ! Will look deeper into this as a new business venture. Are you selling molds and pigments ?
Yes, we sell all of the products you see me using in the video. I have all the molds and pigments I used in the description of the video, but you can also check out all of our other molds here- globmarble.com/
أريد المكونات المستعملة لصنع الحجر الصناعي
وهل هو جبس ام إسمنت أبيض وهل تستعمل ألرمل أم لا
You can use either cement with sand, or plaster of paris. plaster of paris is for indoor stones only, you cannot use plaster stones for exterior surfaces
شكرا جزيلا واصل انت الافضل
I like it , your way is so helpfull , thanks alot
Glad to hear that! There's more to come :)
Nice thanks for the demo !
Our pleasure!
If I already have stone made from concrete that’s on my house is there a good way to color it?
I used a cleaner that was recommended to clean grout off the stone, which it did but it also took the color off the stone.
Is it a floor or a wall? With a floor you can spray the stain and seal it, while with a wall you can use a sponge with the stain and seal it.