Thank you so much for posting this video! I have been looking for the exact information for making silicone molds but usually only found things that were trying to be sold to me. I’d much rather create my landscaping blocks myself rather than pay over $1,000 or more to get them from a big box store. I’m a very happy subscriber to your channel now!!!😄
Thank you ever so much. I cannot even order the bricks I am seeking until maybe next year due to you know what. It would cost me $5,000.00 CDN even if I could. This is a real game changer in a world that has pretty well shut itself down. So, do it yourself! Yes I will! Thank you again.
How could you go about mold making when wanting to copy a pattern indentation though? For example a stone, paver but only the outter detailed impression. Thanks.
I'm assuming that you mean you're trying to make something like a stamp. There would be two methods to do this. Easiest would probably be using a different kind of mold making product. The two part "putty" types of mold making compound that you need to knead and mix with your hands until the color is uniform and then press your object into or smooth on top of your object to capture the texture or shape. Those work best for making thin surface molds but are generally harder to deal with. There is also the technique of "painting" on the mold. However, that's a long process involving mixing small amounts of your mold making compound and literally smearing it on the object you want to mold in thin layers, waiting for each layer to cure to the touch before carefully painting on another until your mold is as thick as you need it to be sturdy. Your best bet is to use a method similar to what he explained, but before using the molding compound fill in the empty sides of the mold until you see as much of the sides of the object you're molding as you want. You can use whatever you want to fill in the sides, depending on how you want the top edges of your mold to look. Sand, clay, even the molding compound itself would work, but that last one would require a two step molding process of allowing the first part to cure before spraying or painting on more mold release and pouring the actual texture mold you want. ...And I'm done rambling now. Hope something in there helped you a bit. Good luck! 👋
Hi! Great video! How long would you say these molds last with approx usage? I'm looking to make multiples of 11x14 picture frames out of hydrostone or cement. Would you say this method would work? I would hope to be able to get 30 frames out of it or more? Would you suggest this material over Eurathane-Vitaflex 20 or 30 ?? If you happen to have time to answer these questions, thank you in advance!!
I would suggest trying an end grain sealer to seal your brick surface. It’s a liquid waxy solution, brush it on let it absorb in. If you put it on thick you can wipe it smooth once dry. Ipe end grain sealer, in expensive and worth a try.
I want to make a multi brick me in one pour. It's all the same brick style. Can I just make an outer frame to hold the silicone pour in & place my bricks appropriately?
Thank you so much for this as I am trying to do a few projects on little money and just can't afford the 6 dollars per brick for 70 or so bricks. Ive been searching for how to do this for a bit with such luck.
Enjoyed this VERY much, but would have been an added bonus watching you pour or make a brick from concrete or adobe once you made the mold, and see what the mold produces. Another thing ... would you make several of these silicone molds to make a large batch at once, or do them piece meal ? Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the feedback! I'll be making a separate video on how I make my concrete mix and pour the bricks into the molds. This video was a lot to create as it was so I cut it there. For a large production, I would need to make several molds for each brick style. I can pour the molds twice per day at the most as they need time to dry between.
Isn't PVA just Elmer's glue? Could you use silicone to coat the wood since (I have been told) silicone won't stick to silicone? Would this work using silicone that comes from the caulking section of the Hardware store? I only need 20 or so.
I’ve often thought of using hinges to hold together exterior corners of molds. The mold sides would not pivot on the hinge, but rather when it came time to disassemble, the hinge pin could just be tapped out. Has anyone done this ?
I would also suggest that the brick should be placed with the the edge (opposite the rough hewn edge) down in the mold, rather than flat. That way the sides of the mold are the smooth side of the brick, rather than the rough hewn edge. Will unmold much easier. The only difference in the mold is that it will be deeper, but narrower. The hewn edge will end up "down" when you cast the concrete, and the back of the brick (opposite the hewn side) will be will be up.
Great Video, many thanks - Q. will the silicone mold deform if it is bigger. I need to make a custom mold for a garden curb, dimensions will be 500mm L x 200mm H x 50mm W. I would pour about 9kg of cement/concrete into the mold, Do you think it will handle the weight or will it warp? Thanks again for the great content
Hey! Do you think this would stick as badly to glass? and is it easy to cut with a utility knife if I want to submerge an object inside and do a slit to get it out?
Is there some reason you can't use something else beside the actual brick to make your mold from? Cut the shape you want from a block of wood or something else not so porous?
I have a few questions :) -would you use a release agent/poly on the melamine? I know you said you don't *need* to but is there an instance you'd suggest it? -And if you wouldn't initially, would you feel eventually you'd need to in order to maintain using that same mold? -if using plywood, would you suggest reapplying the poly/release agent each time or after so many times, etc? Last questions - what kind of clay/putty did you use and what was that aerosol release agent? Thank you SO much for this video. Super helpful!
Why couldn't you use the board that needs no release agent to form the masonry brick/block directly and skip the rubber molds? Which material is cheaper?
Yes, you can definitely do that. Use the melamine board for rectangular bricks. I only use the silicone because I'm making architectural carved bricks mostly. I do create some for standard bricks too, but that is mostly for convenience and they will last forever.
Yes, absolutely! I forgot to mention that in the video. But these same type of molds would be perfect for making adobe blocks. I actually got the idea to make these from a video I saw of workers in India churning out adobe blocks at a rapid pace using silicone molds like this.
@@elizabethjudy6340 Yes. 1. Verify the sand/clay ratio is about 70/30. 2. Sift.3. Add water, emulsified asphalt or some waterproofing agent. 3. Pour into mold or mix very dry for ramming into form.
my friend used that spray butter thingy in the kitchen and they came right off. no way /2 hour for 2 bricks, i thought my freind was a dingleberry but his came off in seconds
great video , use beeswax to treat the inside of your standard plywood molds the silicone wont stick to it , you can use a brush and heat gun to apply it.
I have been looking for a USA dealer that sales clay interlocking bricks molds and machines. Everyone is outside of the US. Do you have any interlocking bricks molds?
Why use the centuries old standard brick model? It requires mortar. An interlocking design would not. Also, you can customize the overall size based on end use, e.g., security wall, interior wall, and bricks/blocks that need a hole for re-bar.
Better off using off cut timber walls, some painters tape used to 'connect' all 4 timber wall sides, and some dumbbells to support the timber sides in case they sag Don't need silicone that way if it's a standard shape Architectural pieces = diff storg
I have the most beautiful door knobs Amigo 🤗 But they are made out of brass...Do you do online consultation? I don't mind paying for your advice 🤗🙌💃🇨🇦 Great job on the brick molds💪🍻
I used the same products on sale here in the UK. For speed, I needed TWO moulds of the same custom brick shape so I could make 4 bricks a day to speed up the build. Each house brick mould I made cost me £72.10 in Polytek 74-45 Liquid Polyurethane Rubber for (4 Kg) also the wood was £9.76 and the 5L mould release agent was £21.56 for the frame. I needed 94 custom shaped bricks to reline two entrances to two Old Terraced houses.
Good point. Thanks for noting that. I got some particular type of clay with my silicone mix kits that I've been using. I guess its that sort of clay you're talking about.
Wouldn't it be easier to carve something softer, the size of a brick, then use that to create the mold? ...I guess the texture would be different. Cast a brick in something easily carved, customize , make a mold cast?
@@thiscobhouse I appreciate your informative video. I need to replicate a hard rubber bushing for an older tractor/excavator that is no longer made. The bushing is sandwiched in between a female and male toothed plates and we can arrange them in the correct position and pour something to make the mold. The plates are hardened steel and by pouring a mold this way it will make ( I think ) a negative of the part we need and then we would use this and pour another mold conforming to this first mold ( hope this makes sense ). What release agent would suggest for the steel plates and then a release agent for this rubber mold to form a positive using a née pour. I really hope all this makes sense, we have the hard rubber compound to make our part, we just have to make a mould to do so, and unfortunately the part we need to replicate isn’t available as it has been destroyed from years of use. Any help or advice would be appreciated
Just a small editorial comment. Your use of the word "silicone" is misleading. You are using polyurethane, which is completely different from silicone. While you make the mold the same way and they pour similarly, they have different benefits and drawbacks. Might want to reconsider how you use the terms.
SICK! i want to start making molds for casting concrete decorative blocks - thank you!
Thank you so much, I really like that you go straight to the point, no music and not so much bla bla bla
Thank youuuu!
This video is incredibly helpful! I've always needed custom molds for things but never knew exactly how to do so! Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for posting this video! I have been looking for the exact information for making silicone molds but usually only found things that were trying to be sold to me. I’d much rather create my landscaping blocks myself rather than pay over $1,000 or more to get them from a big box store. I’m a very happy subscriber to your channel now!!!😄
Thanks for learning about this good possibility.
Thank you ever so much. I cannot even order the bricks I am seeking until maybe next year due to you know what. It would cost me $5,000.00 CDN even if I could. This is a real game changer in a world that has pretty well shut itself down. So, do it yourself! Yes I will! Thank you again.
Thank you so, so, so much. Will happily follow your Amazon links when purchasing. Thank you
Hi could you advice on making moulds for planters ? This video was so helpful and is to understand
Excellent work and demonstration! Thanks guy.
Excellent video. Thanks.
How could you go about mold making when wanting to copy a pattern indentation though? For example a stone, paver but only the outter detailed impression. Thanks.
I'm assuming that you mean you're trying to make something like a stamp. There would be two methods to do this. Easiest would probably be using a different kind of mold making product. The two part "putty" types of mold making compound that you need to knead and mix with your hands until the color is uniform and then press your object into or smooth on top of your object to capture the texture or shape. Those work best for making thin surface molds but are generally harder to deal with.
There is also the technique of "painting" on the mold. However, that's a long process involving mixing small amounts of your mold making compound and literally smearing it on the object you want to mold in thin layers, waiting for each layer to cure to the touch before carefully painting on another until your mold is as thick as you need it to be sturdy.
Your best bet is to use a method similar to what he explained, but before using the molding compound fill in the empty sides of the mold until you see as much of the sides of the object you're molding as you want. You can use whatever you want to fill in the sides, depending on how you want the top edges of your mold to look. Sand, clay, even the molding compound itself would work, but that last one would require a two step molding process of allowing the first part to cure before spraying or painting on more mold release and pouring the actual texture mold you want.
...And I'm done rambling now. Hope something in there helped you a bit. Good luck! 👋
That. Is a good. How can I buy them. It is easy to release clay mix with cement brick?. Do U also make interlocking mold
are these 1 gallon pales? trying to gauge how much ill need. Cant get a volume off the amazon site, just pounds.
Hi! Great video! How long would you say these molds last with approx usage? I'm looking to make multiples of 11x14 picture frames out of hydrostone or cement. Would you say this method would work? I would hope to be able to get 30 frames out of it or more?
Would you suggest this material over Eurathane-Vitaflex 20 or 30 ??
If you happen to have time to answer these questions, thank you in advance!!
Which wood is better for pressing butter?
Would It be possible to incorporate a small steel pipe into the mold? Then you could pressure it , to get it to release
Very nice video. Thank you. Have a great day.
I would suggest trying an end grain sealer to seal your brick surface. It’s a liquid waxy solution, brush it on let it absorb in. If you put it on thick you can wipe it smooth once dry. Ipe end grain sealer, in expensive and worth a try.
I want to make a multi brick me in one pour. It's all the same brick style. Can I just make an outer frame to hold the silicone pour in & place my bricks appropriately?
Thank you so much for this as I am trying to do a few projects on little money and just can't afford the 6 dollars per brick for 70 or so bricks. Ive been searching for how to do this for a bit with such luck.
Enjoyed this VERY much, but would have been an added bonus watching you pour or make a brick from concrete or adobe once you made the mold, and see what the mold produces.
Another thing ... would you make several of these silicone molds to make a large batch at once, or do them piece meal ?
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the feedback!
I'll be making a separate video on how I make my concrete mix and pour the bricks into the molds. This video was a lot to create as it was so I cut it there.
For a large production, I would need to make several molds for each brick style. I can pour the molds twice per day at the most as they need time to dry between.
Do you have in interlocking clay brick molds?
What is the hardness of the polymer used
The degree of its hardness
Thank you so much for sharing
Sir, thank u. You are a game-changer.
You are most welcome!
How firm can you make the silicone?
Material used (liquid rubber polyurethane)
How hard is it, knowing that there are degrees of hardness
and thanks
One question, I would like to know how long you spend moving it and then putting it in the mold. Thank you .
Great video!
Isn't PVA just Elmer's glue? Could you use silicone to coat the wood since (I have been told) silicone won't stick to silicone? Would this work using silicone that comes from the caulking section of the Hardware store? I only need 20 or so.
I’ve often thought of using hinges to hold together exterior corners of molds. The mold sides would not pivot on the hinge, but rather when it came time to disassemble, the hinge pin could just be tapped out. Has anyone done this ?
Could you use a plastic container for the box?
I would also suggest that the brick should be placed with the the edge (opposite the rough hewn edge) down in the mold, rather than flat. That way the sides of the mold are the smooth side of the brick, rather than the rough hewn edge. Will unmold much easier. The only difference in the mold is that it will be deeper, but narrower. The hewn edge will end up "down" when you cast the concrete, and the back of the brick (opposite the hewn side) will be will be up.
Thanks
Great Video, many thanks - Q. will the silicone mold deform if it is bigger. I need to make a custom mold for a garden curb, dimensions will be 500mm L x 200mm H x 50mm W.
I would pour about 9kg of cement/concrete into the mold,
Do you think it will handle the weight or will it warp?
Thanks again for the great content
How about making a brick stamp mold?
Hey! Do you think this would stick as badly to glass? and is it easy to cut with a utility knife if I want to submerge an object inside and do a slit to get it out?
I wish you had a list of the product that you used to do this
Is there some reason you can't use something else beside the actual brick to make your mold from? Cut the shape you want from a block of wood or something else not so porous?
Yes, you can do that too.
why have you used bricks and not wooden forms to create the mould?
Dear brother! Which mold ( Rubber or Silicone or polythene ) is best and long lasting for cement ( concrete ) usage
I have a few questions :)
-would you use a release agent/poly on the melamine? I know you said you don't *need* to but is there an instance you'd suggest it?
-And if you wouldn't initially, would you feel eventually you'd need to in order to maintain using that same mold?
-if using plywood, would you suggest reapplying the poly/release agent each time or after so many times, etc?
Last questions - what kind of clay/putty did you use and what was that aerosol release agent?
Thank you SO much for this video. Super helpful!
Why couldn't you use the board that needs no release agent to form the masonry brick/block directly and skip the rubber molds? Which material is cheaper?
Yes, you can definitely do that. Use the melamine board for rectangular bricks. I only use the silicone because I'm making architectural carved bricks mostly. I do create some for standard bricks too, but that is mostly for convenience and they will last forever.
Looks great.
Cool. Do you think this would work good for Adobe bricks?
Yes, absolutely! I forgot to mention that in the video. But these same type of molds would be perfect for making adobe blocks.
I actually got the idea to make these from a video I saw of workers in India churning out adobe blocks at a rapid pace using silicone molds like this.
Awesome! Thanks!
Sixty years ago I made adobe blocks by pouring into plywood forms coated with used engine oil.
Don Duncan was it easy to do?
@@elizabethjudy6340 Yes. 1. Verify the sand/clay ratio is about 70/30. 2. Sift.3. Add water, emulsified asphalt or some waterproofing agent. 3. Pour into mold or mix very dry for ramming into form.
What does your concrete mix consist of? What is your recipe?
Can you make it with holes in the bricks
Can you please explain how you knew you needed 8lbs of silicone? Is it because the bricks weighted 8lbs!??
my friend used that spray butter thingy in the kitchen and they came right off. no way /2 hour for 2 bricks, i thought my freind was a dingleberry but his came off in seconds
What are the names of the two mixes?
👏👏👏
Thank you for your work!
I'm looking to make my own bricks, how do you add color to make them look old?
Fun Life you kiln them, you have to look them up there are plenty videos on TH-cam
great video , use beeswax to treat the inside of your standard plywood molds the silicone wont stick to it , you can use a brush and heat gun to apply it.
Thanks!
Awesome idea!
How long does the mold last and how many times can you use one single mold?
The mold can last for many many years. You can use the mold hundreds, and possibly thousands of times if you take simple care of it.
I have been looking for a USA dealer that sales clay interlocking bricks molds and machines. Everyone is outside of the US. Do you have any interlocking bricks molds?
Nope. But they could be made this way.
It has to dry for 60 hours ?
12
Why use the centuries old standard brick model? It requires mortar. An interlocking design would not. Also, you can customize the overall size based on end use, e.g., security wall, interior wall, and bricks/blocks that need a hole for re-bar.
Would like to find interlocking brick molds in the US.
@@Life_Is_Hilarious How about adjustable molds for custom brick? Or a speciality company that sells only interlocking?
can you just heavily wax your wood as a release agent before you pour the polyurethane in?
Yes, I think that would work. Just might be more messy, but I think it would work.
Better off using off cut timber walls, some painters tape used to 'connect' all 4 timber wall sides, and some dumbbells to support the timber sides in case they sag
Don't need silicone that way if it's a standard shape
Architectural pieces = diff storg
Molds however, are WAYY easier to work with, requires no unscrewing or re drilling, and super satisfying lol
I have the most beautiful door knobs Amigo 🤗
But they are made out of brass...Do you do online consultation?
I don't mind paying for your advice 🤗🙌💃🇨🇦 Great job on the brick molds💪🍻
Great job
How much per brick mold does it cost ya?
I used the same products on sale here in the UK. For speed, I needed TWO moulds of the same custom brick shape so I could make 4 bricks a day to speed up the build. Each house brick mould I made cost me £72.10 in Polytek 74-45 Liquid Polyurethane Rubber for (4 Kg) also the wood was £9.76 and the 5L mould release agent was £21.56 for the frame. I needed 94 custom shaped bricks to reline two entrances to two Old Terraced houses.
Right
I believe you have to use sulfur free clay with *some* silicon, or it won't cure.
Good point. Thanks for noting that. I got some particular type of clay with my silicone mix kits that I've been using. I guess its that sort of clay you're talking about.
Polyurethane is actually different from silicone. I would suggest trying a silicone mold, you might have an easier time with the release.
Thanks!
6 hours and 950 dollars latter we have a brick
😅
Says a douche that never created anything🤦♂️
Wouldn't it be easier to carve something softer, the size of a brick, then use that to create the mold? ...I guess the texture would be different. Cast a brick in something easily carved, customize , make a mold cast?
To hell with wood and metal frames, I'm going sillicon.
Would you make a mold for a customer and sell it to him?
Yes, maybe. :) Its a lot of work.
@@thiscobhouse I appreciate your informative video. I need to replicate a hard rubber bushing for an older tractor/excavator that is no longer made. The bushing is sandwiched in between a female and male toothed plates and we can arrange them in the correct position and pour something to make the mold. The plates are hardened steel and by pouring a mold this way it will make ( I think ) a negative of the part we need and then we would use this and pour another mold conforming to this first mold ( hope this makes sense ). What release agent would suggest for the steel plates and then a release agent for this rubber mold to form a positive using a née pour. I really hope all this makes sense, we have the hard rubber compound to make our part, we just have to make a mould to do so, and unfortunately the part we need to replicate isn’t available as it has been destroyed from years of use. Any help or advice would be appreciated
CREATING A BRICK W/0 THE SAME Locking FEATURES AS THE FÀMOUS LEGO AND/OR SIMILARITIES, TO ME WOULD WOULD BE A WAIST OF TIME.
It would also be a lot harder to make, so these work for my needs.
You could I have used Vaseline
Fed up of Amitabhs add
Just a small editorial comment. Your use of the word "silicone" is misleading. You are using polyurethane, which is completely different from silicone. While you make the mold the same way and they pour similarly, they have different benefits and drawbacks. Might want to reconsider how you use the terms.
Do you know if silicone would hold up as a concrete mold? I'm talking actual silicone and the caulking section at the hardware store.