Congrats! If you're not going to use it year round, I'd recommend putting "SeaFoam" in your fuel at all times. During periods of storage, purchase a quart of Echo Power Fuel, which doesn't contain ethanol, drain the fuel tank, pour in some Power Fuel, start the engine and let it run for a moment, and then shut it off. Doing leaves non-ethanol based fuel in the fuel lines, carburetor, and crankcase. You'll have no carburetor or rotting fuel hose issues, and it'll be ready to use the next time you need it. Likewise, Echo's Red Armor mix oil is going to be the best oil to mix in your fuel.
@@roberttaggart5757 Incase you weren't aware, octane rating has nothing to do with whether the fuel is made with corn (ethanol). If your 97 Octane is ethanol free, that's perfect. Fuel containing ethanol chemically fails after 30 days, creating a caustic solution that destroys rubber and attacks the metals in the carburetor. I'm in the US, so it's become a huge issue here, for power equipment and vehicles that aren't driven regularly (meaning they go through fuel faster than it can decay and damage them), so that's why I offered that advice.
Thanks for the kind words! The risk with jamming the piston, is that so much force is applied, that the connecting rod breaks, or that what is being used to jam the piston breaks off into the cylinder (in the case of the plastic "fingers" that are sold for this purpose, or that the piston top gets broken. On the assemblies that have a nut molded in, a quick blip with a half-inch air impact will spin them right off. Even on the versions that require some sort of fingered tool adaptor, the other side of the tool will take an impact socket, so the impact gun is once again the tool of choice. The clutches like the one shown here, that have the notches, are designed to be struck with a steel driver, and then spun off. It's more cumbersome to do it with the camera in the way and the saw sitting up on a 4x4 so that it's better in view. Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
@@austinado16 I noped out of messing with the piston myself, so couldn't check behind the clutch, but the method you showed worked very simply for me. I just had to give a hard steel rod directed in the nook, a couple of modest taps to free the clutch like you showed. Good pace and detail in the rest of the video too. I only clicked to hear the tone of the engine as I have 435 to tune without tachometer, but got more than I bargained for :D
There's a blue grease that comes in the little push tubes, that's made for these locations. Many different versions of it available from all the typical online recourses.
Thank you. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, and for the nice comment!
Just bought my 1st 435 saw !
Congrats! If you're not going to use it year round, I'd recommend putting "SeaFoam" in your fuel at all times. During periods of storage, purchase a quart of Echo Power Fuel, which doesn't contain ethanol, drain the fuel tank, pour in some Power Fuel, start the engine and let it run for a moment, and then shut it off. Doing leaves non-ethanol based fuel in the fuel lines, carburetor, and crankcase. You'll have no carburetor or rotting fuel hose issues, and it'll be ready to use the next time you need it. Likewise, Echo's Red Armor mix oil is going to be the best oil to mix in your fuel.
@@austinado16 Thanks man I’m from the UK so we have 97 % octane fuel and I use Sthil 2 stoke oil and Oregon bar oil
@@roberttaggart5757 Incase you weren't aware, octane rating has nothing to do with whether the fuel is made with corn (ethanol). If your 97 Octane is ethanol free, that's perfect. Fuel containing ethanol chemically fails after 30 days, creating a caustic solution that destroys rubber and attacks the metals in the carburetor. I'm in the US, so it's become a huge issue here, for power equipment and vehicles that aren't driven regularly (meaning they go through fuel faster than it can decay and damage them), so that's why I offered that advice.
Superb details. I didn't know the clutch might be jolted off without jamming the piston, or the proper tool.
Thanks for the kind words!
The risk with jamming the piston, is that so much force is applied, that the connecting rod breaks, or that what is being used to jam the piston breaks off into the cylinder (in the case of the plastic "fingers" that are sold for this purpose, or that the piston top gets broken. On the assemblies that have a nut molded in, a quick blip with a half-inch air impact will spin them right off. Even on the versions that require some sort of fingered tool adaptor, the other side of the tool will take an impact socket, so the impact gun is once again the tool of choice. The clutches like the one shown here, that have the notches, are designed to be struck with a steel driver, and then spun off. It's more cumbersome to do it with the camera in the way and the saw sitting up on a 4x4 so that it's better in view.
Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
@@austinado16 I noped out of messing with the piston myself, so couldn't check behind the clutch, but the method you showed worked very simply for me. I just had to give a hard steel rod directed in the nook, a couple of modest taps to free the clutch like you showed.
Good pace and detail in the rest of the video too. I only clicked to hear the tone of the engine as I have 435 to tune without tachometer, but got more than I bargained for :D
@@adymode I have never tuned with a tachometer. I tune for a safe, loaded, full throttle setting
Good stuff, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it, and I appreciate your comment!
How did you pressure wash it? With solvent or soap and water?
I'm not sure if my response came through, but I only use water, and then dry them with compressed air.
What grease do you use for the clutch assembly and what do you use for the bar tip?
There's a blue grease that comes in the little push tubes, that's made for these locations. Many different versions of it available from all the typical online recourses.