How to fix your blown up chainsaw... WITHOUT buying new parts! Step-by-step diagnoses and repair!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- THIS WILL WORK ON YOUR SAW!!! (Provided it is not damaged too far beyond repair). You have nothing to lose but time! It took me 4 hours total.
This video shows the step-by-step diagnoses, tear down, repair and reassembly of a blown chainsaw piston and cylinder. The exact model is the powerful Husqvarna 272XP pro level chainsaw.
Originally I was going to make a quick video of the diagnoses and tear down of this saw, but when I cracked it open, I decided to “go for it” using the tools and sandpaper I had.
This is not necessarily meant to take the place of a new piston/cylinder kit, however, I will show you that with a bit of time and patience, you can bring your saw back to life… with great results using your OEM original piston and cylinder.
I think you will be pleasantly surprised!!!
Let me know what you think in the comments - I had a blast making this video.
Thanks for watching!
hopefully it's not a lemon!
Donyboy!!! Thanks for stopping in. Hoping to get your honest critique on my video. It was a lemon.... but I made lemonade!!!!
@@DavesSmallEngines i knew you could!
@@DavesSmallEngines compresion ? 140 psi good ?
@@Sensei948 yep!
@@DavesSmallEngines th-cam.com/video/jvBvHr9Pcmo/w-d-xo.html naprawi to jeszcze ?
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well th-cam.com/users/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
Very well done Dave. A little trick I use that I see you don't do is, If you're screwing in a bolt turn it counter clock wise first to find the thread start. You'll feel the bolt drop down every so slightly to sink up the threads.
Yes sir! If I find turning it in by hand is a bit “off”... I’ll turn it back and try and reset. Good point!
I learned that trick back in the 70's, but never told anyone because everyone thinks your nutz
Good tip, my dad taught me that when i was a kid, still use it. always.
Yes well done 👍
I was thinking the same thing, a tip I learned by myself, turn it backwards until it drops in, especially when screwing into plastic. I really cringe when people use a power tool to install the cylinder hold down screws without checking to see the thread is engaged correctly, very easy to cross thread. Great video, I just purchased a Chinese after market gas-tank/handle for the 272XP and I see that the trigger assembly is not working like the stock one should with at least three defects that I can see on mine, ripped off again! Thanks, excellent video!!
Glad I'm not the only one who works on a saw at night and then can't eagerly check it out because it will wake the neighbors :)
If the neighbors are sawing logs in bed, why can't I in my driveway?
For someone who rebuilds old chainsaws as a hobby, i would like to say thanks for putting the time in that video. Always thought it would work but never tried it. Great video! Thank you!
You’re very welcome, William!
Surprised you didn't use 2 cycle oil for lube inside the cylinder. WD40 is basically water displacement and a mild solvent. It's good idea to let a saw engine warm up before giving it the beans. Nice repair, I try that if needed. Good video.
Ever heard of cold seizing…no way would I be revving a cold saw like that!
@@tjgrossman did it seize? No, good.
You shoulda pulled the bar first,get it outta the way Speak abit louder😊
..I appreciate what you are doing here, but I would clean up the cylinder as best I could, and throw in a fresh Meteor piston with Caber ring..they are not that expensive, and it would likely be more reliable and last longer...I would reserve trying to save the piston for saws where the piston is unobtanium..272 pistons are easy to find, and a decent/very good aftermarket one is $25-$40...when you sand on a piston, it removes material and also can easily get it out of round or too much undersize...
I don't understand why people do this ! You should blow as much dirt off as possible BEFORE any disassembly. Then after you get the bar, handle and any covers off blow it off again ! Leaving dirt on the outside is just an invitation for it to get INSIDE the engine.
Also I would use wet/dry sandpaper or emery cloth with water or oil.
I agree Jack - however with my air compressor I made certain that nothing was inside before reassembly.
I thought the same thing.
I totally agree. I was a Tech/ Service Manager for a Honda motorcycle shop. Guys would bring dirt bikes in, that were due for a first service, which includes a valve clearance check. They’d be covered in dirt, or if it was “washed”, it was hit with a pressure washer, and not done correctly.
I’d say, “ would you go roll around in a mud puddle,then show up at the hospital for a scheduled heart surgery?”
It drove me nuts. We would tell them, it’s a $15. charge to wash it prior to service. The old man took $5. and whomever washed it got the rest lol.
@@chipper442 I would happily pay the $15 !
I know this is an old video, but to those who watched… when you see a piston that’s all cooked only around the exhaust side, that is usually from overheating. Factory mufflers on most saws are too restrictive and cause them to heat up when worked hard for a long time… if it was a poor gas/oil mixture the piston would be scored all the way around. I recommend, to whoever reads this, that you slightly modify your saws muffler to make it more free flowing. Not to make some hot rod saw, just so it doesn’t hold onto as much heat and risk smoking the piston like the one in the video
Please describe the modifications to a stock muffler that you recommend.
I like your approach to repairing an engine that is “hopeless”. That Husky would run for a long time without any replacement parts added. People who can’t afford to buy expensive oem parts take note: “You can do this with a little Common Sense and a bit of Elbow Grease applied.
Good video Mike!
In an age of need2repair. ...good advice .
I have got many chainsaws going this same way for my self and other peoples saws . The agent have said they are not worth fixing or going to need new cylinder and piston add labour to that and it comes close to the price of a new saw . I understand they want to put a warranty on the fix but if its just a firewood saw used a few times a year then many of the saws I’ve fixed have gone for years . Often its been run lean on the air/fuel mixture or the oil ratio is not correct . Once the ring pinches usual inline with the exhaust port then the saw wont start . Two strokes need good compression both on the top side of the piston and crankcase as the fuel/air mixture first enters below the piston through the reed valve and is compressed on the down stroke then as the piston clears the exhaust port the mix enters the cylinder . Any damage to the piston or ring will effect this process and saw wont start . Also poor crankshaft seals will also affect starting . These aren’t the only reasons a saw wont go but if its got good spark and fresh clean fuel and fuel filter plus a clean air filter and still wont start the its most likely a pinched ring or piston damage
Good work, Dave! ...Tip on refinishing; use stainless steel wool for the final polish.
I've never rebuilt a chainsaw, but have been working with wood and metal in various projects for years, from building/repairing violins, to building a tiny camper. I recently refinished a cheap single action revolver using fine sandpaper, and steel wool in running water, and little soap. Comes out super clean and polished!
If your using new rings, your better off with a slightly "rough" finish vs polished. You want the rings to seat in. New piston and rings should run through a few heat cycles before running full throttle, then move on to a load. Muratic acid works really good on the gaskets and gasket sealer used during the original factory assembly. I always use Yamabond semi-drying gasket sealer during assembly. Keeps gasket in place and helps with air leaks. Use any sealants VERY sparingly. a little goes a long way.
A dull chain will burn up a saw.
I have seen in automotive, when you have piston issue soak it with transmission fluid to build compression back up.I liked the advice about starting bolts by hand, after decades in automotive field have seen what being lazy can do. I have watched the younger guy's trying to get things done so fast that they will install spark plugs with cordless impact. Before I quit my job in the service station business I have noticed that my clients in landscape fields all switched to the highest octane fuel, they found it to be better for the fuel mix and caused less issue with carburetor. The down fall is the ethanol in gasoline
Thank you Dave for producing such a great video. The camera work was spot on the entire time.
It is obvious that you know your way around a combustion engine ,but just as impressive to me was the ease with which you presented the fix.You imparted a good deal of method and technique during your teaching process. I especially liked the fact that you kept a clean work area.
I also enjoyed that you were very eloquent, if I’ve watched 20 how to videos I’ve watched
100 + , for me it’s difficult to watch the fix when the presenter is stumbling over the choice of words and repeating themselves. Thank you, I look forward to seeing more of your videos.
Not a good idea using a so coarse emery cloth on the cilinder and piston. 🙄
Not wishing to sell a bad saw being a personal choice as you put it is admorable sir and well done for being honest in your dealings a pity there are not many more with
that attitude I have been had so to speak on a few occasions in my long life but as I say to my kids what goes round eventualy comes round and being honest always winns
that I am sure Good vid and thanks for taking the time to share this with us mere mortals !!!!!!!!!!!
You definitely needed to remove any aluminium impregnated in the bore and on the surface of the piston ring. Aluminium to aluminium binds up strongly. Just try pushing an aluminium tube (say 1½") into another with 30-40 thou clearance, but with a slight burr on either. They will bind and you won’t get them apart. Not without sacrificing the outer tube or severely scoring both. If the tubes were steel, much less problem.
I also learnt this the hard way when an ultralight powered by a 2 stroke 18Hp Fuji-Robin, seized at 500’. A repair after seizing before my ownership, had not cleaned the bore out adequately. No harm done (to me). Became a short flight in a poor performing glider.
I’m not sure sanding the piston needed to totally remove any evidence of scoring, perhaps just the high points and any sharp ridges. I noticed there was a bit of rounding of the ring groove due to hand sanding. Perhaps gentle stroking with a fine flat file circumference wise, would be better, then finish with the finer paper. Much less hand sanding.
Finally, to gauge how effective your fix was, squirt some oil down the plug hole and repeat the compression test. Any difference in the result will indicate how deficient is the piston / ring / bore seal. If you also performed both tests before repair, even more quantifiable. Use a few ml of gear oil (SAE 80 or 90) and give it a couple minutes to spread around the top of the piston. In 4 strokes, It is a technique used to separate bottom cylinder problems from top end problems. I.e worn rings, broken rings, scored bore/piston VERSUS valves (no tappet clearance, pitted or worn seats, bent stem), blown head gaskets, cracked or warped heads, hole in piston, etc.
I’ve had a Stihl 066 sitting on the bench for a couple years. Won’t start after doing some hard continuous work. You’ve inspired me … well, at least to think about it. 😊
Looking forward to watching you porting your saws!!!
You take your time and explain each step in detail. You are training the next generation of chainsaw restorers and modifiers.
I am one of them.
Wow, what a great comment. I appreciate that. I can say... I am not experienced in chainsaw porting. This isn't something I've gotten into. There is a fella Tinman's Saws that seems to be similar in age and has a great way of explanation. Check him out!
Good job I’ve cleaned up several cylinders in my life I cut the aluminum out of the bore with my pocket knife didn’t scratch the cylinder then used sand paper to clean up it sounds rough but I didn’t think I any thing to lose worked fine. I was very careful. Thanks for good informative videos
Also wondered why you did not coat the ring and cylinder with some oil instead of WD. I guess it worked. Would it have been helpful to have used a small engine cylinder hone to briefly to cross hatch the cylinder walls?
Bless you for sharing your wisdom with us!!!
Just an amazing amount of detail.
I am an visual learner, so thank you so much for zooming in and taking your time explaining each step!!!
Thanks so much for watching!
A bit of overheating due to build up on cooling fins. Got to clean those fins.
Back in the 80's we had to fix stuff like that. There was no Internet. It was hard to get parts and even harder to get money. Of the ring gets to hot and loses it's spring, you can spread the gap with a nut, heat it then dunk it,retemper it. Sometimes you just gotta make due. Great video.
thank you for this idea 🤔 i have an old 1961 mcculloch 1-71 am working on right now and i noticed the ring did kind of lose its spring. thanks
Save all the trouble to get a cylinder and piston kit from Amazon for less than $50.
Not even close to the same quality as OEM!
A new Husqvarna cylinder kit (comes with new cylinder, new piston, and ring) costs $80 on most places online. Edit: I should say, for a Rancher 460.
I didn't think that piston could be saved and used again. Kudos to you sir! I "blew up" my early 80's Stihl 024AVS and was too intimidated to try and save the top end so I ordered a cheap ebay replacement. Your video gave me the confidence to put in some elbow grease and at least try to save an OEM piston and cylinder. And they didn't even look as bad as yours did so I'm hopeful
I find using a wire brush on a die grinder works best on galled aluminum that has transferred to a nikasil coated cylinder. The wires dig the bits of aluminum out without changing the bore dimensions or roundness
Nice Padraic! I will try that one of these days. Cheers!
Why wouldn't you use a cylinder hone?
Thanks for making this video very helpful and educational 👍🏽👍🏽
That damage on the piston and cylinder may be caused by the unit running at high rpm with almost no load such as hedge cutting or very light delimbing.
One time had a Stihl with similar damage and no pressure/vacuum leak.
Stihl also does not cover this issue under warranty.
Have to run the unit at lower throttle in light loads, or lower the high speed rpm.
With some muriatic acid to disolve the aluminum and cylinder honing for cleanup you should have a good saw.
Great to see how everyone rebuilds. Good experience.
Best of luck for your saw!
Hey! Thanks for the great comments. Much appreciated. I had great luck with it - 160 PSI now! Cheers!
I do this sort of repair all the time on equipment for my own use (not for other people). I do spend $12 for a new set of Caber rings. I have found that Stihl chrome cylinders in straight gassed saws are rarely damaged and will clean up fine. I restore pistons that would make the purists gag. I do make sure that (1) the piston grooves are clean and free of aluminum transfer and (2) the bottom of the piston skirts are within reasonable tolerance (skirt to cylinder clearance < .0035). The critical areas are the rings (for compression) and the lower skirt (to prevent piston slap). They run fine.
Great video... I have a 2 stroke lawn mower with minor damage to piston and cylinder that I'm going to try this on. This has given me hope to re use the factory piston :)
Cheers
For a start you are flat spotting this piston, far to course paper.
Grooves don't matter only high spots and ring lands ,just take off the high spots fit a new ring and circlips and you are good to go.
The main issue is the bore, if you can't seal the piston RING to the bore it's going to have trouble making compression so the bore needs a hone and hope (I believe it's nicaseal ) not sand paper.
Course paper on the ring is ok because all you are doing is removing the aluminium from it.
Once overheated the ring will lose temper and elasticity so a new one is preferable.
Either way it will run but it will not put out the same power.
I've done this back in eighty nine good to see someone as savvy as me in a pinch keep going making content.😍
Nice long video! Although I cringed when you started with 300. Were it me, I'd start at 600-1000 even if it meant a little more sanding. Agree with the pre-cleaning, or a bucket of steaming hot water with some Dawn. Once you've gone that far, I'd throw some engine paint on the exposed metal maybe. I've got a Poulan Pro that runs great but clutch won't spin and you've convinced me to give it a go.
Great video Dave. Time consuming repair but you did very well. That saw will run a long time with 140 psi. All you had invested was some gaskets and time. DONYBOY73 would be proud. 👍🇺🇸 Roger
Hey there - there's an issue with HD quality - check back soon and it will be finished!
good to go now!
I sure am, he makes me look good as a teacher!
I would like to add something that is going to make your job easier and more important the correct way to clean up your cylinder and your ring grove on your piston. Tools are a very important part of doing a job correctly I would like to have you check out a piston groove cleaner and a cylinder hone. When using sandpaper you are concentrated on one spot causing a low spot I realize it’s not much but to a person not experienced it might be a problem. Using a cylinder hone moving it up and down while spraying a lube like WD will clean up the cylinder as well as giving you the cross hatch needed to make ready to put it back together. I’m not saying that you are not doing anything wrong I’m simply giving you additional information and tools to make your work easier. With Respect. RR
I have never known a chainsaw to blow up’!! Explode?? Nooo! Don’t be silly!!!😂
Thank you Dave. "Although I am Not mechanical minded I enjoyed the watch.I have my chainsaw certificate and have used chainsaw for years but I have always have them fixed professionally when needed by the guys like you who know what thet are doing... Cher :-)
Thanks Dave. I just got an Echo saw that won't start and found scour marks on the piston. I'm hoping to be able to save the cylinder and maybe even the piston after watching your video. Loved the muriatic acid trick. Something to think about. I heard to check for is gray discoloration on the crankshaft and down below in the case. I was told that should all be cleaned up with carburetor or brake cleaner or that material will work its way back up into the cylinder and cause more wear. I really enjoyed this video and the great detail.
Seems to me that the score on the cylinder walls and the damage to the rings would have been something of more concern to repair as to the score on the piston itself since the piston is not going to contact anything as long as specs are in place elsewhere.
Another tip for starting in bolt without cross threading is to turn it backwards until you hear it click, then tighten it. It's ridiculous what they charge for OEM parts. I'd like to see someone calculate how much it would cost to build a complete saw with individually purchased OEM parts. I bet it would be a couple of thousand! 👍
Good tip!
My dad was the sole salesguy for Partner saws and Oregon chains for a whole "socken" (basically a county) in Sweden in the 50's and 60's. He bought complete saws and disassembled into parts, one saw needed only to sell half its parts to pay for itself and only bought the parts that were the big sellers. He also got commission for saws sold, because the company banked on selling lots of spare parts. He got extra goodwill for selling fresh handles and other less-wanted parts cheap for customers when they fixed their saws with him, since he otherwise had those parts left over from the stripped saws. Everyone got great saws in great condition, he made bank, and even got free air-charter trips to spain from the company as a bonus when they started flying airplanes from Sweden to Spain. Sadly he sold to many saws on credit to people who decided not to pay and he didn't have anyone doing collections for him, or he'd been truly rich.
Dave, I am so proud of you! I wasn't sure if the sanding was going to be good enough to work, but a combination of that and the Muratic acid, seems to have done the trick. Also a good diagnosis on the stuff you found wrong like the loose bolts and stuff. I am happy for you buddy.
Thank you!! I appreciate it.
I always wondered if it was possible to repair those cylinders after the scoring and your video answered my question so thank you and great video !!!
What does sanding the scratches out actually do for the performance? As in, reducing the total diameter of the piston and increasing the gap between piston & cylinder wall.
Piston ring polishing I understand that it's a better compression. Thanks, good info
I went to tech school for auto machine. We were taught to knurled piston skirts and tune them with a large fine cut mill file. Polishing the piston with fi e grits probably doesn't help, removing any bumps so piston won't continue scoring is.
I was curious if the piston rings would have blow by, nice to see they didn't. I would be curious to see a more generally scored piston and cylinder go thru this and see if it worked ... did engine make enough compression to run and cut ok.
What you can do on the piston and it'll give you more horsepower as well and prevent piston slap is to get a centre punch have it slightly blunt and every 5 mm put an indentation quite heavily in the side walls, you need to have a block of wood the shape of the piston underneath it, and up to about 4 mm to the ring With a fine file or thousand grit wet and dry on a flat surface take off the burrs from the punch so you're left with 0.3 tho measuring with a feeler gauge to the side of the wall of the cylinder. Always run a Chainsaw with more oil so you've got slight smoke and dieseling and use synthetic not mineral.
Can you not buy the piston and ring from Husqvarna? And if not why not?
Having a slightly oversized ring 0.1 tho might be beneficial. you could get the cylinder chrome plating 15 microns after hatchings
you can make a gasket by just cutting an old foil tray seems to work for me all the time just make sure it's bit thick not the thin ones
Oh muriatic acid is some strong stuff. I use it clean the rust off heavily rusted metal. Turns it not rusted, completely. I guess you should put baking soda on what ever you put it on to neutralize the acid. Idk science and stuff. I hate the smell of the stuff. Burns your nostrils. Cool video though i just leaned out my husqvarna h350 and blew it up im pretty sure. And almost doing it to my mini mac 120. I dont even want to start another chainsaw until i learn how to not blow them up. Glad i got a 545xp mark 2 the other day with the auto tune though. Its almost idiot proof im hopeing
Nice to see that you have your channel going. I knew your name from being seen with Donnyboy. I watched one of his videos today on a decompression valve. I'm working on a Husqvarna K770 concrete saw. The customer stated that he can see fuel spraying out of the valve. Have you worked on any husqvarna 440's
I have cleaned up quite a few seized up piston ring grooves, some of which were carboned up as well. I used a sharp piece of metal (old ring piece or chisel.) to cut away any excess metal. The ring should then have about 2 thou clearance, and should wobble about a bit when pushed into the groove from outside... making a figure of 8 with the piston. Hope that new piston and cylinder sits on your shelves for a few years
Hi 🖐Dave happy new year 🎊 buddy that’s one nice looking chain saw you got buddy I can’t wait to see if you can make it run again thanks 🙏 for sharing 😀😀
Grab a coffee and buckle up!!!
Hey there - theres an issue with HD quality - check back soon and it will be finished!
Good to go now!
How did you know the engine was blown? What were the symptoms? Excellent video.
Just curious Dave these look a lot similar to its bigger brother the 395 xp I was hoping that you may have a theory on why a rebuild piston and head replacement will run perfectly on a cold start run beautiful until you shut it down. Then as a warm start is goes. No this ain't happening. Thank you. Aussie Jeff Moore
Good video Dave thanks for your tips will come in usefull
Thanks for watching!
Hello Dave, i have old husky 266 and doesn't have decompresion valve.
Can i install decompresion valve on my chainsaw for easy startup.
Thanks
11:50 Hey dave i would of used a air chuck and try to blast all the crud out arround the base and arround the carb before removing the cylinder to prevent less chance of debrie getting into the crank as i would be to be pulling off the cylinder
Good call - I ended up spending about 5 minutes blowing it out at 150psi before reassembly. I will do it before next time.
I really like this video and help me a lot.You are very good at explaining things and I want you to know that I got mine hot and I cracked the head right on top underneath the spark plug. Is there any way I could use JB weld or something? What would you do?
Have you replaced it yet or still running that piston?
Dave u have ended up with a nice saw that many would like to own . Great repair
You got that right!
SANDPAPER IS TOTALLY THE WRONG THING TO USE...YOU USE EMMERY CLOTH FOR MECANICAL STUFF...'SAND' FOR WOOD ECT...
EMERY CLOTH DOSE NOT LOOSE ITS GRIT WHILE USEING IT...
THANKS FOR UR VIDEOS..GOD BLESS..
Maybe you can help. I got a 450 husqvarna and was cutting a tree And I thouched the fence and the chain came and I damaged it. Replaced the chain and now it doesn’t want to turn on. I replace the spark plug and cleaned the filter and I’m lost now. I order a carburetor kit and fuel filter and when they get here I’ll replace them. What else could be the issue?
Before I put screws in, in plastic or other materials, I like to turn them out by hand until they fall back into the previous thread then hand tighten to make sure they're in the right thread. Makes many repetitive repairs less destructive to the fastening threads.
Very good point. I learned that lesson the hard way a few times!
Just a quick question, what can be used as lube on piston rings, bearings and what not, I have no Idea about 2 strokes but for 4s I just use assembly lube
Thanx Dave! Greàt video,but please clean before teardown and use rags on top of crankcase before setting circlips on w/pin. I learned the hard way on a Harley Sportster.
Good tips Ross, thanks!
I have a question I have a 365 71 cc chainsaw It had compression then all sudden it lost it and now it is dumping mix fuel into the piston and exhaust I cannot figure out why piston looks good when you look through the exhaust hole but you can pull it and watch it dump gas out of the exhaust port
Fun video! Great breakdown. I've got a couple old Poulan's with some scoring. One's got seized rings. I think (once my shop warms up this summer) I'll break them down and see what comes of a little clean up. Thanks again!
You’re welcome! Thanks for stopping in.
Why is there an arrow on the top of the piston to direct that side to the exhaust port? IOW is the piston different on one side than the other and how? I was wondering if the piston could be turned 180 when being put back in. Perhaps a diffirence is the location of the piston ring pin, which I am guessing is seen at 15:30-15:31 next to your thumb. At 27:00 you seem to be aware of it when installing the ring but don't mention it.
Minuto 23...QUE ANIMAL !!! Este chico todo lo arregla con lija
False economy doing this, when you have it all stripped down you’d be better getting a non OEM barrel and piston, at least you’ll get a year or two out of it. With this hash up you might not get two weeks out of it 😜
How long do you think that repair will last? For an occasional user like myself, 1 or 2 cords of firewood a year? I think it would last 10 years or more. Mabey 20.
I asked @donyboy73 that same question in our latest Q&A - stay tuned for that!
13:43 I love that. Do you love me? 😍💋 💝💖❤️
YES
I would have removed the carbon build up in the exhaust port, that's what eventually falls off and scores the piston and cylinder 🧐
it's crazy how everybody is ok with this hack, none of you will ever work on my saw....when you start sanding rings down , you're not a mechanic
Good job! Why put in a new piston & cylinder? It's an old saw. Just use it. Thanks again
I'd leave it together until it loses power & compression,as people say, " If it ain't broken, don't fix it "!
Hey Russell.. I think you're right. It has 160 PSI now and it screams!
Good work . Nice pertinent comments. Camera work was of good quality. You have a good voice for naratn. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Harold! Stay tuned for more!
Have you ever seen one where it was badly scored the intake and exhaust side of the piston and cylinder ? Just came across your channel
What kind of maniac takes a pro quality saw and screws it up like that? Some second hand homeowner?
WHAT????? No anti-seize lube to paint it all with??? LOL. Oh brother.
Great instruction! You can work in my shop any time! Just put the lid back on the acid immediately......
Yes sir! Will do. Thanks Don!
Fogging oil works wonders to lube piston & rings. Trash the WD40.
Perfectly usable! The Meteor piston and separate rings will make that say an awesome machine. NIce jobl Dave!
You bet!
I was told by beer can small engine repair on a cold start to let the saw run at a idle for a minute before revving it not to score the piston
Hey Fred - I agree. Always best to let it warm up to prevent cold scoring. Cheers!
I got a ton of 2strokes and 4 stokes engines in my garage from new to use hit me up if u guys need anything I let them go for 60 brand new
Nice repair. It may last longer than you expect. When the new parts arrive you now know that it is worth putting them into this saw when the time comes. I have not been doing much as far as video uploads lately due to several factors. But this video would be a typical one for my Trash or Treasure series. Enjoyed watching, big ..👍 #242
Stay safe, Joe Z
Hey JOE! Great to see you here. I agree, totally worth a new kit when the time comes/ Thanks for popping in, hope to see more comments in the future! Cheers!
@@DavesSmallEngines Will do. Stop by when you get a chance as well.
Any opinions on the value of replacing the piston rotated by 180 .
My friendo your a genial u got me out of a pinché and i thank you ,opened my eres alil more bestia to u
I wonder how long it would last. I repaced a jug and piston it a Stihl chain saw two days after the man bought it. He said he forgot to put the oil in. And they refused to replace it.
I don’t blame them, not really their fault. It’s unfortunate but there is an expectation as a user to have that precious oil in that gas!!!
Im not sure how long it will last. I asked @donyboy73 that same question in our upcoming Q&A!
@@DavesSmallEngines thats why i always use stihl motomix, never problems
I love this video. Thanks for walking us through not only the dissassembling of this Husq but your thought processes at ever step. This was a fascinating video to follow along and learn about the components and the 3-D “diagram/schematic” of this and most chainsaws.
I came across a Husq 440x that appears like it was rarely used, but feels like it has little compression. I bought a compression tester for under $20 from Amazon which arrived yesterday. I’m eager to take on this rescue. I’m quite familiar with my Stihls and have always babied them in maintenance and blade sharpening, but this Husqvarna is a bit unfamiliar in details. Not no mo’. Thank you.
Why not use 2 cycle oil for lubrication, rather than WD-40? I've never seen WD-40 used as assembly oil for an engine - I would recommend 2-cycle oil, since that's what it's designed for....
Good call, I will do that!
I only got this far but I gonna say it anyway. Throw it away. it aint gonna run at the revs needed for any length of time
Awesome fix man im really impressed how well that worked
I thought for sure he was gonna spill the bottle of acid. Glad he didn't.
I have a 441 also. just bought a big bore kit for it.. Don't gasp and faint... but I got it from Farmertec... guess i need to question walt(afleetcommander?) or tinman about what i should do before i install it. Big bore only adds 2cc? i thought it would have been more at least 5cc?? my mistake i guess.
No mistake! I have an off brand bigbore kit in mine... I have a video of this exactly, I have a 441C I turned into a 461c by a big bore kit. It’s 70cc to 76.5 cc I am quite impressed with it. Is yours the Mtronic carb?
@@DavesSmallEngines OK as i had thought i was thinking anywhere from 75cc to 77cc at first. No mine is just a MS441 magnum. no C or CM letters. i seen the others talk about squish and i am going man something else to think about. i was hoping slap it on and go... never know i might be able just to do that lol here's to hoping. but i do know about ring catching or what every they call it.. and base gasket deletes to rise compression. ah well fun in trying anyways. eh?
@@beingsneaky that’s the best part! I think it’ll be fine. I had to grind out part of the casing on the bar side and flywheel side to get mine to fit but man, what a powerhouse now!
Being cheap inside a engine makes me cringe .... seriously spend the cash do it right !
Good afternoon, very interesting. I am going to try one of my old saws.I have nothing to lose. Thank you for taking the time to video
Hey Steve! You’re right - nothing to lose. What saw are you going to try it out on?
Make an exhaust gasket out of a cereal box or something similar...
Fairplay! I've never done any serious chainsaw repairs and thought this was really impressive. I thought with the piston looking like that youd need a new one for sure.
Hey Legacy! Thanks!!! It turned out well. I can't guarantee how long it will last however.... it seems to be working great still!
Hey Dave ... I really enjoyed this build and appreciate your strong ability to teach.
Also ... this saw absolutely rips ! I was super impressed at how strong she runs and how much Ash and maple she swallowed up so quickly . Thanks fer selling me this saw brother !!
Awesome!!!
EPA lean running chainsaws all have a fine line between great running and destroyed chainsaw cylinder and jug and the carbon no older non EPA chainsaw gets as I run saws for. 54 years and love my old 330 limelight saw all that it needs is a intake boot every 15 years and a sharp chain and oil that's right for cold or summer running also post and hateful or mean or even rude posts not allowed as this man trying to teach you some skills and bothering to do just that and edit and post think of that he's no 15 year old that needs to post anything for attention also remember if you can't say anything nice don't say 8t at all
Also get yourself a great well made chain saw they have run a 13000 or 145000 rpm and have nothing but a carb adjustment and your cutting better than new chainsaws bet your bottom dollar you will see