Tri-ang Hornby Track Plan along with a few other bits and pieces on the layout
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2019
- A look at my Tri-ang Hornby my Track Plan along with a few other bits and pieces on the layout including RT.266 Station/Yard Lamps (c1963-70) with Blue Tack cap replacement. The R.497 Isolating Track (c1962-71) and my homemade version of these and their position on the layout. The position of the Power Clips R.487 (c1962-73) feeds to the two separate circuits and a look at what I call the passing loop on the layout which can be accessed by both inside and outside lines. Use of cut track on the layout. In addition there are the following Models/Toys running R.351 EM2 "Electra"(c1961-71) with R.666 B.R. CARTIC Car Carriers with 16 Minix Car Load (1969-73), R.855 Flying Scotsman (c1968-77) with LNER Teak Coaches R.745 Full 3rd and R.746 Brake 3rd (c1970-77), R.753 Bo-Bo Electric locomotive with a single operating pantograph (c1969-72) with Rail Blue and Grey MK1 with dark roofs R.727 Composite/R.729 Buffet/R.728 Brake (c1969-71), R.555C Pullman Train two car set with R.426 Parlour Cars (c1969-72). All dates are approximate Music Source / Royalty-free Apple loops/Looperman.com
Link to Dave Angell’s Website: daveangell.co.uk
Link to video with Station Lamps with LED conversion: • Tri-ang Hornby RT.266 ... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Oscar, I love your layout and it gives me soo many ideas every time I see it and thanks for your detailed information about how you do things and where you put them.
Thanks Tim, glad you're enjoying the videos.
Take care.
Oscar
Mr Paisley this is a very good video. The more I watch your channel the closer I get to setting up my own Super 4 layout 👍💫💫💫💫💫💫💫💫💫💫💫💫
Good morning Tim glad you enjoyed the video I must say playing the system 6 at the moment I really do miss the super 4 it has a sound all of its own when in use.
Take care
Oscar
Demonstrates Exactly what Triang intended. Fun. Superb layout Oscar.
The beauty of your videos Oscar is that it gives us fellow modellers ideas, plus also shows us out here in TH-cam land that sometimes our own ideas are duplicated by others!
From this video to me, I’ve noticed that some “old” designs are very effective. Look at the power connecting clip and isolating rail. The power connecting clip is unobtrusive, not at all like that clunky thing that Hornby produce now. The old unit looks like a piece of real railway infrastructure!! And likewise the isolating rail.
I keep wondering what your next video could be Oscar!! Great stuff.
Thanks Andrew. Great comment. I think your right they made these things to look like pieces of railway infrastructure.
Oscar
Excellent Oscar. Loved seeing the layout in detail . I think this is a layout that lives at home but if you ever exhibited I’d be glued to it . Pure Tri-ang Hornby nostalgia. Brilliant. This is the layout I’d loved to have had in the late 60s/70s . Loved the playing with trains aspect . Just so much fun. Love these catalogues too . I cherish mine
Thanks Russell, definitely a home layout and gives me hours of fun. The catalogues are just the best, love the illustrations.
Oscar
Oscar Paisley just been running mine with 1974 R550 Black 9f , Evening Star and Brush Type. 4 or class 47 from 1975 ,. Lovely!
Thanks for replying to my question, that helps a lot .
Its a dying art form, forget toys or models, its a form of art. My neighbor (long since passed) used to make his own layout. The only thing he didn’t make was the track. Every loco, every carriage, every connector, every lamp post and every milk canister was made by hand, from sheet metal.. the lamposts he made took 5 months ‘each’..turned by hand on a lathe from 5” nails.. amazing modeler ( Rip Sidney Stubbs, Manchester Model Railroad Society).this video takes me right back, people see this in 2 ways, big kids toys.. or...specialized art.. for me, its the latter, this is Art...
I think you may be right. Sadly our local model railway shop closed about two years ago now. It was a terrific place and bears some of the responsibility in my returning interest in the hobby. It was a very social place, apart from the terrific staff, the customers were great from all areas of the hobby. And there were more than you might think that modelled from scratch from sheet/stock metal, wood and plastic, right across the modelling/collecting spectrum through to those like myself who play with toy trains. They were always happy to talk and equally happy to listen. Ideas were exchanged, laughs were had at each other expense, but always good-humoured.
I miss the shop and these type of places will not return.
Oscar
Very very interesting. Like the details and your explanations very much.
Thanks again Norbert for the kind words. Hope found it useful.
Oscar
Hi Oscar ,,, I must say ,, love the signaling ,, point work and overhead wiring ,,, I've built my own overhead wire towers on my coffee table layout ,, to power streetcar trams and the triang steeple locomotive ,, on my bookshelf layout ,, all electric points ,, I've kept since i was a kid,, and ebay orders of signal stands on the way ,, again ,, love the suspension bridge ,,, in canada ,,, at one time,, triang ruled ,,,, its difficult to find any triang ( Used ) at hobby shops,,, nevertheless,, i'm purchasing all the favorites ,,, again great video ,, all the best
Good evening Rob, glad you enjoyed the video sounds like you have some great item in your collection. Hope you still manage to find more great Tri-ang items when visit the models shops. Here most of the models seem to have closed my local model shop "Rolling Stock" sadly closed a few years ago now.
Thanks agin take care.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley In Toronto , there is a wonderful train shop,, Georges Trains ,, I've been going there as a child to this very day ,, Have have everything ,,, sadly im far from Toronto ,, but planning in the future for xmas to gift myself,, all the best my friend
Great video Oscar
Just found your channel Oscar, what a fabulous layout. great to see some Triang. I am back to the hobby after retiring and I still have some Triang rolling stock from donkeys years ago. I have Princess Victoria with solid wheels and the two coaches that came in its set, I wish it would run on Peco 100 points. I am starting on a small end to end layout with a fiddle yard and having great fun. I hope to put some film of it on my TH-cam channel soon.
Hi Philip. Thanks for watching. Nice to hear you're having fun with the model railway. Look forward to seeing what you create soon. Temperamental those old Princesses. It's why I use super 4.
Oscar
Great video it is a great layout
Hope to build my own layout soon
Thank you David. Hope you have fun planning and building your own layout. There was a lot of trial and error getting mine to this point and it's still changing. I don't think these sort of projects are really ever finished just a work in progress, until its time for a fresh start!
Oscar
Great layout Oscar, You must of spent thousands of pounds on it, I’m now in the process of doing my old layout from 40 years ago! I found it in my late Dads garage he started me off all those years ago, good memories, regards Paul.
Great to hear you enjoy seeing the layout. Sounds like your going to have great fun setting up your old railway.
Oscar
My late father built my younger brother and myself a massive Super 4 layout in 1972, immediately after moving into our new modern larger house (well it seemed larger than the previous Victorian terrace). He bought up the remaining stock of Super 4 track from Summers, Ashley Road, Parkstone, Poole, Dorset to do this, just before it closed.
The layout was a double track folded loop over and loop under with a "dent" in the loop so the bedroom window in my room could be reached. There was an embankment and cutting and the layout had two tunnels where the loops crossed over each other. Not much room in the middle for sidings but it did have a hump shunting yard, which only worked on pin point axle stock.
He had the novel idea to lay the track on roofing felt. The effect was good and it dampened the sound. The boards were cantilever mounted to the skirting board (my father was a time served carpenter joiner) which eliminated awkward vertical support legs. I was 10 years old at the time and my brother was 6.
My father also cut custom pieces of track to make things fit. He also cut the webs on a quad length straight to create a flexible track section to make a long varying radius curved siding.
The layout was dismantled and the track sold in 1980 to finance a giant all 4 walls Peco Streamline layout. However before this it did see the adoption of Hornby's Zero One DCC which I bought in 1979 and which ran just fine with Super 4 track. However I wanted to move onto scale model railways and a larger layout with enough sidings space to not have to keep rolling stock in boxes when not in use.
Thanks for sharing it must have been terrific as a 10 year old. What good memories you have of your father and the wonderful railway he built for you and your brother.
Oscar
Excellent layout. How does the suspension bridge and piers cope if a Triang (Wrenn) locomotive run taking into consideration the extra weight (Ex Hornby Dublo 2 Rail)???????
The suspension bridge does not cope very well with the Hornby Dublo 2 Rail nor does the span where I have missed out a pier on the flyover. I imagine it would be the same with the Tri-ang Wrenn models of which I have none. Please have a look at this video of the Barnstable th-cam.com/video/Fo4k1ybiHQ0/w-d-xo.html
Oscar
Can you tell me concerning your points , did you say you used a CDU to help them work ? If so how many CDU's did you use is it 1 per point or can they work more than 1 ?
Regards Colin
Hi Colin. Yes, I used a CDU it came in a Gaugemaster branded bag. For a layout of this size, you would only need the one unit it's just wired into the supply/return for the point motors. This CDU is capable of switching 6 different points simultaneously should you wish too. I think it may be a bit optimistic with these old super 4 points but it does change a pair of points at a cross over just fine.
Oscar
You have really made a great layout and it is only 10 x 5. I thought it was larger. I have tried to incorporate a turntable in my 8 x 4 layout, but as you say it takes up too much space. I have now designed an extension layout on a 8 x 2 board to run at a right angle to the main board on the right hand side. Just one problem. I have no told her in doors yet.
Ha Ha! Martin, know how you feel. Wouldn't want to be in your shoes when you tell the Wife! Good luck.
Oscar
Great stuff Oscar. I had that Track Plans book (cover shown at 23:37 in, And the catalogue shown just after it); and, as I Commented in another of your videos, it is only seeing your video now that I remember having those books back in the day.
They are great books that fuel the imagination.
Thanks again for watching
My pleasure.
Excellent video again Oscar, great to see your layout in full. Can I ask how you wire up the pairs of points? I am wanting to do that on my layout where the train moves from the inner oval to the outer through a diamond cross-over. I'm using Super 4 as well.
Thanks Simon glad you enjoyed the video. Hope you enjoying your Super 4 track. I have sat for a good few minutes trying to think how to put into words wiring up a pair of point-motors up to a switch together for a cross over. And I'm sad to say I failed. But I have found an excellent diagram which is more to the point than the words I was trying to use. Have a look at this link www.brimal.co.uk/articles/alternative-points-switch.html?mode=print the diagram Fig: 2 on this page is exactly the way I have wired my points. The diagram shows a microswitch being used any switch designed for points will do it just has to be momentary contact/Passing Contact type switch. As it mentions in the text limit the switch on time. As in the ON position the prolonged power will damage the motors. I have used a CDU to prevent this as it gives all the power in one short hit and then cuts out. (A bit the flash on a camera) The CDU is also very good if you are switching more than one point at a time especially these old Super 4 points as they are quite heavy. Have a look at the link below it will give some info on CDU's there are many available on the internet between £10 and £20. I bought a lightweight Gaugemaster one and it works well.
Oscar
www.microminiatures.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-capacitor-discharge-unit-twin-4700uf/
@@oscarpaisley Thank you Oscar. The diagram explains it very clearly I'm using the R.044 contact switch for the points. I will have a look at what CDU's Hattons have, as Micro Miniatures do not post outside of the U.K.
Hi Oscar, another excellent video, beautifully produced and informative as ever. How do you keep you track so wonderfully clean, if I may ask. Many thanks. Maurice.
Just basic track cleaning with an old track cleaning car R344. I use lighter fuel as the fluid for this. Occasionally a track rubber. Track cleaning is boring but necessary from time to time. I never do it all in one go.
Oscar
What do the double isolating sections acheive? I'm assuming its in connection with the overhead, but I'm a self procalimed electrical dunce so would simply be guessing. Excellent video.
Yes the double isolating track 4C helps to hold a train with the catenary in the passing loop whilst using one on the mainlines. Also makes its possible to hold a train powered from the track between 4C and 4D. Double isolating track 4E is a bit unnecessary at the moment but I have had plans for some time to set up the catenary so two trains can be running from the overhead power independently of each other. Just something I wanted to try as I had read it in an instruction leaflet. I only have schoolboy electrical knowledge there's a lot of trial and error.
Oscar
Brilliant as always Oscar. Just a quick question re the lever frame switches, I recently read that only the black plastic ones were for points, in having a passing-contact. Where as the yellow and green one's don't have a passing contact, and are either always on or off, so there is a potential to burn out the points motors? Any thoughts?
Thanks, Claire great that you enjoyed the video again. As I understand it these lever frame switches have the following basic functions.
Black switch: passing contact - good for point motors.
Yellow switch: On/On - good for Colour light signals (red to Green)
Green switch: On or Off -good for isolating tracks/switching lights on and off in buildings
Red Switch: Push to Run - good for the electrically operated level crossings.
www.tri-ang.co.uk/OONew/RT44.htm
Hope this helps.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley Many thanks for clarifying which of these switches does what. Regards. Claire
A very aptly titled video. I don't know why you would cut rail to create an isolating section when all you need to do is remove a fishplate. One question I did not hear you answer (forgive me if I missed it) was; did you plan the layout or did you just start laying track in the available space and see how it worked out? I quite recently obtained a copy of the R6166/70 track planning book, I think I shall spend some time today studying it. As always this has been a thrill on my Sunday morning. Thank you Oscar, David.
Hi David. I have removed fish plates in the past when I was using system 6 and also made use of the plastic rail joiners. It was a personal choice based on this previous experience to cut the track. As a single piece of track can be swapped out with its soldered wires if I change my mind. You are absolutely right David I had forgotten to mention that this track was not planned in advance it started out some years ago as a system 6 layout loosely based on track plan 9 from the 1976 Hornby Railways track plan book 4th edition. Plan number 9 was for an 8x4 layout as I was lucky enough to work on a 10x5 board I expanded it a little and found by removing the engine shed and yards from the middle of the plan I was able to put in a circuit of super 4 with catenary and the turntable. This circuit of super 4 with catenary and the turntable is currently still on the layout and I refer to it as the inside line. Indicated by the blue line on the track plan. I have only created the track plan in this video because a number of people have expressed an interest in seeing a plan of the layout. When I took away the system 6 I had a great deal of fun experimenting with super 4 track running around what I am now calling the inside line. There are some great plans in that book I wish I had the space to experiment with them.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley Thank you for a great reply Oscar. David.
Hi. Love your videos. How do you clean the tracks in the centre of your layout as it looks very wide.
Hi Peter, the layout is 5ftx10ft so its quit an easy reach in from either side to clean track and catenary. I think if I was unable move all the way around the layout cleaning would very problematic.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, its hugely appreciated.
Oscar
Oscar Paisley Thanks for reply. Love your videos.
Oscar there’s a product called “Bondic” which is a liquid resin. This is cured by UV light (provided with the kit). You could drop a couple of drops of resin in the top, which is self-levelling, cure it hard with the UV light and paint it. I have used it in a professional application and it’s wholly suitable.
Hi Bobby, thanks for the information have had a look at the product will definitely to give it a go.
Oscar
Hallo. Very good video. Like.
Thank you.
Oscar
Hello Oscar, is there any possibility that you could do a list of the required track for your layout? I have decided to recreate your excellent layout myself as the time has come to breakout all my dormant Triang items. Bringing them back to life after many decades of storage will be fun. Your weekly videos have inspired me to get cracking. I do not crave the new digital systems and will be doing everything as per original.
Best Regards.
Good evening, it sounds like you have great plans. I sure you will have many hours of fun and get great satisfaction bringing your collection back to life. I have made a rough count it's not down to the last fish plate and there are six pieces I of track that I have cut to fit and two of the ten isolating rails are homemade double isolating rails. I would love to hear how you get on with this project.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Oscar
27x R.481 Straight
24x R.480 Double Straight
10x R.497 Isolating Track
30x R.482 Quarter Straight
14x R.489 Long Straight
4x R.483 Double Curve(1st Radius)
2x R.484 Curve (1st Radius)
17x R.485 Double Curve(2nd Radius)
10x R.486 Curve (2nd Radius)
8x R.646 Double Curve(3rd Radius)
13x R.491 Right Point (with motor)
10x R.490 Left Hand Point (with motor)
1x R.493 Right Dimond Crossing
1x R.492 Left Dimond Crossing
x1 R.408 Turntable
4x R.457 Set of 7 Inclined Piers
11x R.453 High-Level Pier
16x R.431 Large Radius Curved Sidewalls
22x R.456 Straight Sidewalls
1x R.264 Grand Victorian Suspension Bridge
4x R.301 Power Masts (with link)
155 x R.300 Single Track Masts (with link)
8.5x R580 Double Track Gantry’s
Thank you for taking the time to reply in such comprehensive detail Oscar. I shall build my layout in stages as I need to add to my stock to build the complete plan. I am in the process of devising a track cleaning regime as my stock of Super 4 has sadly suffered in storage and once I am happy with the results I will put up a video of the track rejuvenation and the construction of my track table. Once I have track laid I can work on the locos and stock. Thanks again.
Was your layout plan the same as the one in the 1971 track plans book?
Hi its starting point was plan 9 from the 1976 track plan book.
Oscar
I am going build a layout with some super 4 track and lot of system 6 track can tell me how you clean up the super 4 track before use on your layout or could you do a video on this please
Some of it I washed in warm soapy water if it was really dirty and dried in the airing cupboard or similar. Light use of track rubber where needed. I paid special attention to the fish plates and rail ends, I used a rotary tool with a brass brush to finish off the ends. In some cases its necessary to slide the rails out to achieve this.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley Thank you for that I will try it
I should use a hot glue gun for doing those lamps - blue-tack will become sticky and collect dust. I use a Dremel 930 Glue Gun 240 V with Precision Non-Drip Tip, Dual Temperature and 18 Multi-Purpose 7 mm Glue Sticks. You get a range of colours, including black. £18.99 from Amazon.
Thank you that sounds great I will look into it.
Oscar