I went to a shop, for the lower control arm, the mechanic was charging 360 for the parts and 340 for the labor. I was stunned when i shop online for the parts, becsuse it was 70 to 150 complete parts. This is why trust is the number problem when it comes to this shops. I thank you for the step by step removing and installing of the parts instructions
For those with an automatic - you'll have to remove battery, air filter housing, unbolt the transmission mount from the body, and unbolt bottom of the front engine mount. All this while supporting the transmission with a jack. When everything is disconnected, raise the jack to give clearance to remove the front control arm bolt
yeah, nice and easy with a MANUAL tranny. What they DON'T show you is the pain in the ass part of getting the AUTOMATIC tranny out of the way for enough clearance to get the front bolt out!!!
disconnecting the bottom nut to the swar bar link and moving it out of the way helped give me extra room to install the lower control arm. If your links are old you might have to replace them if you take them off using the vice grip trick.
This video helped me changed passenger side lower control arm. But driver side is slightly different. What special tool do I need to access the front 19mm bolt ?
This MUST be a manual. Auto trans gets in the way of the front bolt. You might be able to loosen the subframe and drop it a little but those bolts may be hard to move. I do it by supporting the trans with a piece of wood and a jack. Remove the filter box and the trans mount underneath (remove the battery and you may be able to just remove the center bolt of the mount). Lift the trans out of the way.
A question regarding the ground position of control arms: When using a jack underneath the brake disc is there any tip or indicator of how much do you have to lift up the lower control arm via the jack to align it to the ground position?
Basically, when it starts to lift the car off the hoist or jack stands so it's at the same level as if it were setting on the ground with the wheels supporting the body, which is why you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing it. . . You want it to be at "RIDE HEIGHTH" when you tighten everything down so it is centered in the suspension travel.
@@cooldude5611 I have an 03 Vibe. I had a previous clunk due to bad sway bar links. I also replaced my ball joints after one of the boots had a tear in it.
I just had a mechanic replace these for me. My car now makes a loud screeching metal on metal sound. What could it be? The sound usually comes when I’m coming to a slow stop or making or turning at in intersection when i need to turn my wheel all the way. Then was i drive forward is when the sound starts.
+@tonybeop We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I am having issues getting the rear bolt out of the control arm. It spins and the nut spins separately from the bolt but it won’t loosen... when I spin the nut alone it spins the whole bolt but won’t loosen when I try
The rubber bushings will twist beyond their natural limits when you hit bumps in the road where the wheel goes up higher into the fender-well causing them to wear out faster or possibly even tear on the first major bump. Need to be centered in their travel so they can twist in both directions as the suspension goes up and down. If working in your driveway, I would assemble everything with it on jack stands then put the wheels back on and drive it up onto a pair of ramps so you can get under it again to finish tightening them.
Well god damn this will be annoying with hand tools. One thing though I was amazed at the digital torquer. I got to get me one of those atleast, thats just too neet.
@@TRQ I have a 2005 matrix and my transmission oil pan is in the way, on the drivers side. Even jacked up the motor and can't get clearance to get the bolt out. That's not the case in the video though. What's different? Auto trans compared to manual maybe?
This is a manual transmission. The automatic gets in the way. Easiest way to deal with it is remove the trans mount and then lift the trans out of the way.
On an automatic (not shown) you can unbolt the subframe and then pry it down at the front and that will allow you to get the control arm bolt th-cam.com/users/shortskHk3dAvF_jw?si=2-9MBHu0LDRzbA9n
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I went to a shop, for the lower control arm, the mechanic was charging 360 for the parts and 340 for the labor. I was stunned when i shop online for the parts, becsuse it was 70 to 150 complete parts. This is why trust is the number problem when it comes to this shops. I thank you for the step by step removing and installing of the parts instructions
For those with an automatic - you'll have to remove battery, air filter housing, unbolt the transmission mount from the body, and unbolt bottom of the front engine mount. All this while supporting the transmission with a jack. When everything is disconnected, raise the jack to give clearance to remove the front control arm bolt
yeah, nice and easy with a MANUAL tranny. What they DON'T show you is the pain in the ass part of getting the AUTOMATIC tranny out of the way for enough clearance to get the front bolt out!!!
disconnecting the bottom nut to the swar bar link and moving it out of the way helped give me extra room to install the lower control arm. If your links are old you might have to replace them if you take them off using the vice grip trick.
This video helped me changed passenger side lower control arm. But driver side is slightly different. What special tool do I need to access the front 19mm bolt ?
No special tool. Transmission needs to be pushed out of the way. Remove the air filter box and then the trans mount underneath and push the trans up
This MUST be a manual.
Auto trans gets in the way of the front bolt. You might be able to loosen the subframe and drop it a little but those bolts may be hard to move.
I do it by supporting the trans with a piece of wood and a jack. Remove the filter box and the trans mount underneath (remove the battery and you may be able to just remove the center bolt of the mount). Lift the trans out of the way.
+freshdoug Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Hey it's the a1 auto vee-er-gl guy!
A question regarding the ground position of control arms: When using a jack underneath the brake disc is there any tip or indicator of how much do you have to lift up the lower control arm via the jack to align it to the ground position?
Basically, when it starts to lift the car off the hoist or jack stands so it's at the same level as if it were setting on the ground with the wheels supporting the body, which is why you have to be VERY CAREFULL when doing it. . . You want it to be at "RIDE HEIGHTH" when you tighten everything down so it is centered in the suspension travel.
did the drivers side today... that was some bull crap!
Excellent video thank you.
Is there a video for the right side? the oil filter housing blocks the removal of one bolt on that side
Thank you
i got a crusty 2006 corolla manual is the "cluck-cluck" sound under the front right side this control arm or could it be something else
Me too I have the same problem I just bought a new lower arm control with the bushings hopefully that’s my problem.
Sounds like bad control arm or sway bar bushings
@@cooldude5611 I have an 03 Vibe. I had a previous clunk due to bad sway bar links. I also replaced my ball joints after one of the boots had a tear in it.
For the driver side, you gotta lift the transmission to get to a bolt
Not on manual transmission models, at least not with the 2ZZGE 12.8L and 6 spd manual.
How different would a 2009 matrix xr be?
The hockey puck looking bushing always ends up cock eye'ed when i tap the other bushing into place. Is this normal?
I just had a mechanic replace these for me. My car now makes a loud screeching metal on metal sound. What could it be? The sound usually comes when I’m coming to a slow stop or making or turning at in intersection when i need to turn my wheel all the way. Then was i drive forward is when the sound starts.
+@tonybeop We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I am having issues getting the rear bolt out of the control arm. It spins and the nut spins separately from the bolt but it won’t loosen... when I spin the nut alone it spins the whole bolt but won’t loosen when I try
Use a wrench on top nut
What about driver side its harder
No one shows that one lol
Haha. They don't show that side because you may not want to buy the part if it's too difficult....
Is the camera changing the view? It looks like the drivers side to me
@@77biker777 It is the drivers side. ;)
Transmission in the way
What happens if I snug them up without putting load on the new control arms?
The rubber bushings will twist beyond their natural limits when you hit bumps in the road where the wheel goes up higher into the fender-well causing them to wear out faster or possibly even tear on the first major bump. Need to be centered in their travel so they can twist in both directions as the suspension goes up and down. If working in your driveway, I would assemble everything with it on jack stands then put the wheels back on and drive it up onto a pair of ramps so you can get under it again to finish tightening them.
Well god damn this will be annoying with hand tools. One thing though I was amazed at the digital torquer. I got to get me one of those atleast, thats just too neet.
That looks like the driver side.
What year Matrix is that???
+jo nie This is a 2005 Matrix model.
Makes sense i have an 07 and i can't remove rear bolt because of transmission
@@TRQ I have a 2005 matrix and my transmission oil pan is in the way, on the drivers side. Even jacked up the motor and can't get clearance to get the bolt out. That's not the case in the video though. What's different? Auto trans compared to manual maybe?
@@jasonbrown2711 automatic transmission gets in the way of drivers side bolt. This video is more manuals only
Well as rusty as that pig is…I guess I don’t need to worry too much about breaking a bolt (or the hidden welded in but in the crossmember) on mine.
Good Lord I'm Glad in California and not in a Car Rust City lol
Why do I have no room to remove the front bolt? Why did you have so much room? I can't fit a ratchet much less an impact wrench.
This is a manual transmission. The automatic gets in the way. Easiest way to deal with it is remove the trans mount and then lift the trans out of the way.
Never seen so much rust falling from a car. Looks weak.
imagine doing this with hand tools. my hands hurt like hell
I did do it with hand tools :'(
+Jacob Fair Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
On an automatic (not shown) you can unbolt the subframe and then pry it down at the front and that will allow you to get the control arm bolt
th-cam.com/users/shortskHk3dAvF_jw?si=2-9MBHu0LDRzbA9n
Jk....saru batau.....
Your torquing looks unrealistic.
That whole subframe and frame is trash...the whole car is rust
Daily beater status vro
Do you need to Jack the tranny up to get to the bolt like some are saying? For automatic.
Yes. It's a pita. Remove the air filter box and then the trans mount and lift the trans to get clearance.