Why we zero at 100 yards - AR15
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2025
- Quick explanation on why we zero our rifles at 100 yards instead of 25 or 36. Push the distance. Be as marksman!
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We zero at 100 because it's the most common distance of ranges available.
Also (and this is just my opinion); i fucking hate when people call it the "36yd zero". It's a Maximum Point Blank Range or MPBR zero and like most things, it depends on your location. It may be 36 yds at sea level with 55gr moving 2900fps but where i live in Colorado at over 6000' it's more like 40yds.
Your "far zero" is also dependent on how much of a spread you want. A 6" spread may mean your MPBR may only be good to 270yds while a 8" spread may mean you can hold center mass out to 300+.
Bottom line, no matter which zero you choose "you gotta get your ass outside" and use it.
@@PoliticallyInsensitive the best comment ever
I like to do the 36 yd zero
I'm just kidding bro
36 yard zero 5.5" spread to 300 yards, aim center mass hit center mass up to 400 in my experience
It could be good for that set up!
It’s not quite that simple, because you have to account for height over bore. With a 1/3 cowitness optic on a 16” barrel with 55gr, the spread from 0-300y is ~8.5” and with a Unity riser on the same rifle, the spread for 0-300y is ~13”.
If you confirmed on paper at that distance you’d know that’s not right.
This is why this conversation is important. Barrel length, twist rate, grain weight, optics height over bore, and 1 through 6 MOA different size dots will all produce extremely different results.
The take away is, put in the work and document in writing the DOPE for your setup with all Ammunition that you have available and then use whatever works best for your build.
It’s hungry, so feed it
been using that forever. great zero
Irons...25m zero. Aim for the gut out to 300. Adjust your hold upward to shoulder line past 300. Works great. Remember your marksmanship fundamentals.
With 100 yard zero, from 0 to nearly 200 you know your round is going into a tight two inch vertical window that does not go higher than what you see. Like you said it's a big deal if only a face is exposed. Also, most people who are on scene during an active incident are innocent bystanders/potential victims, and we have to know where the round is going to go. 100% agree with what you said about being able to conceptualize holdovers with 100 yd zero. One explanation I've come across with conceptualizing 100 yd zero, if you are close enough to make out facial expressions, hold over. If you can't see facial expressions, then aim where you want it to go.
Thanks for the insight and comment brother
What about 50 yards?
Good stuff here
Well I was about to argue and say there would be no reason to engage at 100 but you shut me up👍🏾👍🏾appreciate it!!
I just came back from a rifle training with a former DevGru member and he told us the 100 yard was the way to go for the same reasons Devin did in this video.
They do 36 he was probably not who he said he was lmfao
@@MaddenMagiciannot all of them do. It also depends on when he was in.
You just prove a loud mouth doesn't know shit.
WAIT, I've got it! All you have to do is add it all up, 36 + 50 + 100 = 186 yards! I am sure if you zero your rifle for 186 yards, you'll never miss another shot.
But let's be honest, I am just glad that I have something to shoot across the street with. I just bought my first AR-15, an 11.5 inch 6.5 Grendel from Alexander Arms, and Have Not zero'd it yet. No scope, just a green dot Holosun, and this video was exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you for all your energy and dedication to the art.
Thank you for the comment brother I truly appreciate it!
Ima try this one day😅
I'm probably gonna sound like an ass saying this but you went with absolutely the wrong caliber and barrel length for your first AR. The biggest issue is that you went with a caliber that while it's a great caliber, nobody uses it. In an emergency situation, supply and logistics-wise, you won't have ammo compatibility with anyone. Economically, they are much more expensive than 5.56. 11.5" barrels are so short that you are losing so much velocity and thus power behind the round. The GOOD news is that with AR set-ups, you can simply buy an AR15 upper and attach it to your current Alexander lower (get a complete upper with barrel, bolt carrier group, gas tub, handguard etc). Put the 6.5 Grendel upper in the safe and don't waste money buying ammo for it.
I had to sub ..
Had no choice ..
Organic and straight forward..no macho man BS
🍻
I appreciate you brother
100yd zero also has the advantage of having the bullet path never go above the point of aim. I agree best for a rifleman that knows his weapon.
Close zeros are for conscripts in the Russian army in WW2 who are told to aim at the belt buckle with 7.62x39, and guns/uppers that are dedicated to indoor use like for police entry teams.
I was at a class recently where everyone zeroed at 50y. Everyone was using various types of 55 grain FMJ. Nobody was dead on at 200. Type of ammo, bullet weight, ballistic coefficient, barrel length, elevation, weather, and so on all get a vote…
Also, I would rather fall short than go over.
Good info brother thank you.
The 50 yard zero should put you within a cunt hair at 220 yards, not 200. As long as you are using m193 55grain fmjs a direct cowitness height optic, and a 14.5"-16.5" barrel. Ymmv
Been using the 36-300 zero for 40 years. Out of a 5.56 shorty (I use 10.3, 11.5, and 14.5 lengths), that zero works with most ammo types and I get a 6 to 8 inch impact oval between close-in out to 300, no issues. Point and fire, you always get a solid hit. Beyond that, YES, the holdover is significant. I still agree, you MUST verify ZERO with the ammo and individual carbine/rifle. On longer barreled PR's, I generally use a 300 zero on 6.5CM and .300PRC and dope from there but those are precision rifles.
Free education is the best! You rock brother, keep it up and much appreciate your feedbak.
Thank you very much for the comment!
*Depends on your sighting system and expected target engagement distance.*
These goofy tall mounts and extra high RMRs can really change things up.
200 is preferable for irons, dots and scope like reticles. Out to 250 you're within the shooter/rifle/ammo capability, and 300 is a minor holdover.
BDC's should be zeroed for best _average_ distance/subtension alignment.
Thanks for the info brother!
Yeah, goofy tall mounts generally should be zeroed at 100, irons should generally be zeroed with the small aperture at ~25/300y and the big one at 50/200 if it's marked 0-2 with adjustments if the sight radius or projectile make that impractical, BDCs should be zeroed at whatever makes the subtensions nice, etc. 100y is generally the nicest zero if there's no other concern but there's too many tech specific constraints to give a single perfect zero.
I'm heading to the outdoor range tomorrow with my 2 sons. I'm sighting in my new LWRC with a Sig Tango 1-6 msr. Thank you for the advice. Cool dog too.
Love that sir! Have a great time.
What did you zero with after all
I zero everything at 100. Red dot 556 up too scoped 338Lm . It just works
-36 yard zero with 77 grains and 16 in barrel puts me within 3 inches up or down out to 275
-Human head is 8-9 inches
-Same set up with 100 yard zero has to hold high 10 inches at 275
-100% the 25 yard zero is horrible for 5.56 especially with a riser but 36 and 50 have their advantages especially when running a magnifier
-The conversation is much more nuanced than a 5 minute video can explain
I do see a use for the 50/200yd zero for a non-magnified optic like a dot or prism since it lends some reach but keeps trajectory within 3 inches above the POA do that's still a head shot for obscured targets.
I would use this for a loaner gun, and 100yd for my personal one and everything with a magnified optic.
A 50/200 gives you the shortest vertical shot string out to 250.
I zero at my front sight musket sights at about 10000m and I'm able to hit anything within a few inches from my face at .123 MOA of accuracy from space. If you're not doing how I do it, you're wrong.
If you don’t just pop a shot and bayonet charge , you’re wrong.
Really appreciate your input, teaching, advice. It’s humble and real. Even for myself as a two service veteran, lastly 19d, m249 gunner…it’s been awhile. So thank you. I subbed & notifications on. You guys make it easy to want to learn.
* I wonder how many of your students have been in a life threatening situation/environment within the civilian world? I can attest, being unarmed in an “active environment” can make for a very bad day/night and…long term. I was shot 2x in such an environment when I was 20, home from the Navy. Had I been armed…it would’ve changed my life forever. (1rnd next to my spine/8 pieces of copper jacket lodged in my left chest & back. Your training makes a difference. Thank you all. Ian
I do a 100yd zero because it lines up the most closely with the bullet drop compensator in my scope reticle. Whatever works!
Went into Army BCT with over a decade of training on carbines with instructors on my own dime and LE training. Learned the advantages 50 yd zero has for most setups, 0-200 your point of impact wont be further off than the distance between your barrel and the optic. So for normal height mounts about 1.5 inches from 0-200.
We use a 25 meter zero at BCT. The average guy learning how to shoot a rifle is so stressed by trying to remember fundamentals of marksmanship they cant even begin to think about ballistics. At the zero confirmation range I was spotter on the screen that shows where bullet is impacting at 150 and 300 meters. At 150 the overwhelming majority are shooting high over the shoulders of the target and some worse completely over the head. Because they were told to just aim center and pull the trigger by cadre. Its unnatural to aim at someones waist line at 100 or 150 meters to make a good hit. I brought it up in honor graduate interview with LTC and CSM when asked how the training could be improved and basically got blank looks, "well they'll learn that at their next duty assignment." But giving that more attention early could solve the majority of people who are struggling to qualify. I could only fix people in my platoon.
yea i was stuck on the 25m zero for awhile because of my time in the military
so you recommend 50yd zero?
@showtime1235 Yeah for red dot/ holo setups it's pretty hard to beat. Least deviation from 0-200 between point of aim/point of impact.
36
Been using for 27 yrs and hasn’t failed me yet
get it boys
I use 36 for my eotech cqb set up. 100 yards for lpvo set up.
1776
😂😂 you do have some magnificent pearly whites my friend. Keep up the good work. 🤘🏻
Delta34’s TH-cam channel has, by far, the best video out for finding the optimal zero for your rifle, optic height, ammo combo.
I think it’s rare for a “round number zero” (25, 36, 50, 100) to be optimal for any given rifle/ammo combination.
If you’re constrained to putting targets at specific distances, then do what you have to do. But if you can set your target at whatever distances you want, then dialing in your zero distance for the optimum trajectory is ideal.
For example, on my 11.5” suppressed rifle with a Unity height EOTech at my altitude, a 60 yard zero gives the best trajectory with 77gr projectiles and a 65 yard zero is best for 55gr training ammo.
I zeroed both rounds and marked the specific spots on the adjustment screws with paint pens for both types of ammo. Yes, this was takes more time and effort, but I think it’s worth the extra effort to optimize your self-defense guns’ zeros.
Delta 34 is quite legit I'd say!
Delta 34 is a wealth of information, Bought my first Acog because of his videos.
I use a 50yd zero (20in barrel and 55gr bullets) and this is good to 300yds for me. Beyond that the HK MR7.62 with the long range package comes out with .308.
good discussion, though i wish there was more comparison between the 50 and 100 yard zero's. ive been using 50 yards as a standard and it seems to work pretty well. though its a tad bit high at 100.
You just gotta get out there and experiment with it brother!
Pat Mac has a great video explaining the "angular relationship" between bore & line of sight of your optic. It's a couple years old & he's using standard optic riser height, but it's still relevant to for all users to watch
If you do like a 70 yard zero your bullets only going to rise like 1 inch but it will stop that bullet from dropping so quick out at 3:00 or 400
I run a 36 yard zero unless you have a BDC set for 100y. 100 is nice becasue all of your holds are UP. If its close UP, if its far aim UP. Easy to remember...
My 14.5 I have my LVPO is set at 100 yards. So from 100 to 200 yards on man size target it is dead on. But my canted Red Dot is at 50 yards. From 50 to 100 it is dead on. But anything under 50 there is a slight holdover. Best of both worlds
36 yards and everything except 300 yards will be in a cd size circle……..with a 16” barrel……..
I zero mine at 50. It makes the most sense to me for a ranch/varmint rifle.
As someone who lives in germany and cant own any guns because its strict af here, this video will definitely help me.
Great Video tho, I loved the explanation!
haha thank you sir
Real world advice!! Anything else is either completely competition shootings or non combat related.
Thank you for the comment and support!
I have a 100yard range trimmed out now still. Jave aot of brish trees to trimm for 200 . Thats max safety on my property
But what about eotech 50yrd zero
Yeah I've gone away from it!
@tacticalcowboy01 I have a bunch of gear but I have just recently started to cater to my ammo
Great succinct video. What about considerations for shorter barrel? I’m running a 10.3 with a 2.8” height over bore and m855.
Hey buddy thanks for the comment. It truly depends brother, I still zero all of my tools at 100 regardless so I have that carry over from platform to platform. The true key is going out and messing with it yourself! You have a range to do so?
@@tacticalcowboy01 I do. I’m going to try the 100 yd on my red dot home gun. I like the 36yd zero for a 16” but I’ve found I forget hold-under in the intermediate ranges, and think for a rifle I might grab to use under duress is likely going to be 100 and in and the holds are easier.
My ACOG is set for 25yrd Zero, been that way for 15yrs.
As long as you used the bottom of the chevron. If you used the tip your stadia are probably going to be off
Seems like a really nice guy. Not trying to dog him at all here, but he isn't fully up to speed on this. Not alot of people are. These super high mounts flooded the market and knowledge didn't come with them. The 36 yard zero is based on height over bore of iron sights. You put on a 2.26 like he's got in the video and it's a different ballgame. That 36 yard zero is now completely unattached to the methodology that created it because the math equation changed with that height over bore. Those unity mounts give you a 3.47 height over bore which requires a 57 yard zero. Not a 36 or 50. If you zero at 57 yards you get a group +/- 3 inches out to 300. That's a head shot aimed at the center of the face out to 300. Now you barrel or ammo may change this but all you need is a calculator and a few minutes to optimize it. In reality. This method is Far Far far better than zeroing at 100 and guessing your target distance for a hold over. I promise you if we throw paper plates up 100 to 300. Various ranges using this method and holding center will get more people more hits that your guesstimate holds on a 100 yard zero
exactly!!! I was looking for this comment. I run the 57 yard zero because of my H.O.B. but hey, most people are too lazy to use a ballistic calc and know what the bullet is doing in all phases of flight
@cliffordjamil people are super uneducated on TH-cam. But cameras are cheap and it's free to upload. The wild part is this video is still up
@@johnadams673 Yes, it should be taken down just because you like a 57 yard zero lol. Typical gun tube emo nonsense.
Zero ring at 100 yards gives you the maximum amount of effective range with the least amount of adjust. It has the most predictable data compared to a 36 or a 50 yard zero.
Now there is some intelligent information
I’m Zeroed for 50. The 25yard zero the Army teaches sucks imo. Can you possibly do a video of the Point of aim center mass and Point of contact between 10-100yards? Using a 100 yard zero. I would like to see some data on the differences in how much the point of impact changes between distances while only aiming center mass.
I Love You Bro, this is a really great informative video. You inspire me to be a confident firearms instructor.
Thanks so much! Pumped to hear that. If you ever need anything just reach out!
Thank You Bro💯 I will definitely keep you in mind!🤘🏼
You’re awesome bro!!!
Just ran a 100 yard zero into 4DOF and it shows that the bullet rises above the line of sight by 1/8 inch or so before intersecting the line of sight again at 150 yards
Hight over bore is a huge factor most people don’t think about nor do they true their rifles. With a 2.26” riser, a 36 yard zero should be more like 57- yards.
I am a hunter always 100 yards when all shots are touching I stop and go hunting 308 150 grain Hornady superformance
There’s a 100yd indoor range about 10 minutes from where this was recorded at TNT in Murray🤝
have a 10.5 PDW......going to try the 100 yard zero.......
@@EuropaChronicles Thanks Partner.....Needed some advice on it.
100yd zero is the way .. nice to hear others who think it as well.
it is a way! That works quite well for us
Finally someone explains it well.
Glad it helped!
Helpful zero for those guys that want a 100 yard but initially only have access to a 25 yard range. Your point of aim should be whatever the height of bore is for your point of impact at 25 yards. So I zero my dot is 2 inches above the impact. Real world I’m usually only a few clicks off wind and elevation.
Still have to get out and verify on paper!
The Ol Lab Nut shot
Haha YES
50 yard zero for me. Same concept as a 100 yard zero but when shooting at 100yards(with a 50yard zero) the max height the bullet will deviate upwards is only 3.5 inch's. Which is better than ideal for aiming at center face at 100 yards.
Haven’t hit that subscribe button in a minute. This was great!
@@WanderlustDigest we appreciate the kind words thank you
Why’s labs the best? I hear it a lot
What I’m getting from the comments is this. No matter what range you choose to zero, at least we’re fuckin doing the damn thing. Long as you know you’re setup you’re good to go.
Keep making great vids. All 100% valid.
Thank you brother, just out here trying to fight the good fight and get better
Zero according to your terrain. Urban areas 36yrd is usually best. There isn’t a zero that’s better than the rest. Pick a distance, study it, train with it and know your holds.
If you’re trying to shoot that bad guy in the face and have a 25 meter zero, you should know where to hold. This is your zero and should be an expert in understanding what the projectile is doing. Human head is on average 8” and the rise of a 25 meter zero is about 10” out to about 180 meters. Simply hold just around the chin to neck area and youre going to center punch the T box. It’s about practice and understanding. The reality is there is no perfect zero, only the perfection of knowledge of what your projectile is doing out of your weapon system. In other words dont just zero your rifle and tuck it in the closet. Go out and train and understand what your ammunition and weapon system are capable of within the thresholds of your selected zero. Good video!
Well said!
Absolutely agree. Know and train with the system you have chosen. After that, it is merely staying focused on the level of competency one wants with that system that requires time behind the system in all sorts of environmental conditions. Shooting at 2-6 inch objects appearing from behind something at distances out to 600 yards from behind cover is where one can start to realize their accuracy and efficiency of system. This will be dependent upon the level they take their training to. Up/down hill, brush, logs, from a stream bed, every consideration must be trained with. Start small, simple, crawl, walk, run. Select at least two grains of ammo at first. Understand each's ballistic limitations. Then follow up with more adversity of cartridges. The reason is simple, in any confrontation, extended, away from a supply source, one will or may have to find anything available, unmarked ammo. Most civilians offered will be here in US, in a certain aspect range of grains, tip. Understanding what you as an individual can melt into, make anything work. Since the 556 round is generally a close-quartered weapon system, it may be imperative to understand how well one can adapt with any system this is offered in. Short, medium and longer barrel lengths, cartridge discrepancies, optics. This is not a drill if things go sideways, learn your capabilities so that one can be proficient with most all systems in case you are confronted with having to continue with some other weapons system in a fight for survival. They all say to know your weapon, that's great. What if that should be destroyed, lost, confiscated? Be prepared when opportunity knocks, open the door. When out with the gang training, range, engage with others systems to allow yourself some adversity. If the individual one fires upon is missed, chances are he may not.
I zero mine at 300 like 6 inches low at 300 and depending on barrel length , ammo grain , and optic mount might be from 36 yards to 43 yards up close 🤙🤙🤙!!!!!!! Seems to keep simple for me , now do shoot as good you guys do , no , so that’s saying something !!!!!! I’ve gone out as far as 600 yards with no magnification, but did have someone helping me walk it in , took bout 3 or 4 rounds!!!!! I might change over to 100 !!!!!
Haha you badass mo fo!
What riser are you using for your Eotech? Scalar works? And how do you get your Unity mag mount to match it so high?
A longer form video covering zeros and your opinions would be pretty cool. Just sayin
What would you like to know my dude?
I love both 50 and 100.
What about using the zero target that imitate the 100 yard zero @ 25 yards until you can get to the range? .300 Blackout 14.5 pinned and welded Suppressed?
Good to get started, but you have to get out and confirm on paper at various distances! We have a video about this coming out soon!
A fifty yard zero, hits approximately one inch high at 100 yards. Zero at 150 yards.
The best video I've seen on this is Practical Accuracy's "The best Zero for home defense." He actually verifies things on the range.
Personally I zeroed all my ARs to 300m due to time in the army. My AR pistol i zeroed to 50m though.
As a civilian its almost impossible to have a legal shot at 100 yds you most likely will have a duty to retreat
It blows my mind that not more scopes have multiple settings to switch your zeros too….
Recommended zero for a 10.3 556? Or still 100 yards?
I thought he was going to piss on the camera, that would have been hilarious!😂
Do people bore soght anymore?
What if you can't get a 100yrd zero ? I have only in door ranges around me and they don't go over 75 feet. So I have to zero at 50 yards what's your suggestion lol
Devin, would you still use the 100yd zero for a home defense sbr?
Our rifles have a 100 yd zero and we use it up close as well. You need to be familiar with your height over bore regardless of your zero!
@@tacticalcowboy01 sounds good brother, thanks!
Love the Dog
Thanks bro he is a good pup!
Tell the people about those boots your rocking at the end of the video.
Got in a argument with my drill instructor about this I was like 100 yard zero is the way to go and he didn’t agree 😂 the army ranges at 300
because some guns come so nerfed out of the gate they won't even hit 400 yards.
The energy loss will drop the bullet typically on those guns.
Or it could just be made like crap.
Zeroing a gun is crap.
who make your Hat?
Great video thanks!
Anytime brotha
what do i sight my pistol optic to?
I used to zero at 25 until I started shooting at 50 then realized I was on at 25 but a few inches left at 50. Now I am zeroed at 50. Could be overkill but it's nice when I push the distance! up close it's no difference as you'd expect
Awesome videos thank you
Thank you for the comment we appreciate it!
If you don’t mind me asking , what do you recommend for red dot zero on Glock 17 ?
Great break down.
100y is the master race zero.
25y a hold on the chest at 100y goes over their head. So much up and down.
In my opinion the 25y zero was designed as a catch-all for young mediocre at best trained soldiers to get body hits by aiming mid torso (belly) out to 300y. Backed by big Army logistics and range limitations.
I think you may have a point
Also have to remember in combat you are mostly laying down suppressive fire.
“Comment about my teeth, whatever.”
Lol, I’ve had a ganked grill my whole life brother, at least yours are straight!
Great vid though
Bad ass channel!
Thanks for watching!
Really solid info guys. I’ve been teaching this to students for years now.
People tend to forget that 25 meter zeroes were invented way back in the old days because of iron sights. That zero made sense because you didn’t want your front post to be covering your small target at distance and hence being taught to aim at the belt line. With modern optics it just doesn’t make any practical sense to still be running that. Also, last I checked, targets don’t just stand in the open. You typically will only be able to see a small part of their body so good luck remembering those holdovers without a “belt line” reference.
The only other zero I fancy is 50 yard but that’s only for red dots without magnification and without a riser. This is mainly due to the fact that I don’t care how good of a shooter you are, it’s damn near impossible to get a well calibrated zero at 100 without the aid of magnification. 50/200 still gives you a nice flat trajectory and I would argue that shooting beyond 200 yards without magnification is almost a Hail Mary despite what zero you have on your rifle.
36 meter zero seems to be trending ever since that Shawn Ryan video but after testing it, the difference between that and a 50 yard zero is extremely negligible that I would just advise to stick with a 50/200.
Lastly, if you have a red dot on a riser or like in my case, a RMR piggy backed on a scope, definitely try the 100 meter zero. That thing will ring small steel plates all the way to 350 yards without using any holdovers.
Nailed it!
37
Haha oooo I like it
Puppy parts! 100 for the win
I’ll stick to either a 36 or 50 yard zero as long as I’m running an RDO.
Good for you?
Depending on your mount height, selecting an arbitrary zero distance isn’t great. It works well-ish for the military where large groups of people have to zero at the same time from the same line.
But we don’t have to live by arbitrary zero distances anymore. Why not dial in the absolute best zero distance for your rifle, optic height, ammo combination?
I am from Pakistan and thank you very much for the info
Im here to comment about your teeth just as you asked.
More seriously though, I love your videos I just found your videos a couple days ago and you make the most sense to me when you put out videos like this, so easy to understand the why and the how! Keep it up, I would love to get out west some day for a class
hahahah thank you bro
Also I appreciate the kind words. We are trying to help the every day person get better!
100 yard zero is horrible at distance if you are using holdovers. Nobody is dialing a 5.56. 36 yard zero gives you 400 yard holdover at top of head.
Outside it is.
Great video
Thanks!
50yd zero and drop it 2in for indoor range 🤔
I disagree, always go with the American Pitbull...cause this IS America my friend.
I subscribe because of the dog😊
All the people who are going against the 100 yard zero can’t even shoot at 100 yards. Sorry, not sorry, baby boys!!!!
Meh what he is saying is debatable. 4:31 I will say it depends on situation and training.
36 yards, done and done 👌
by your explanation a 36 yard zero is better. but you're using an eotech which is made to be zeroed at 50 lol....so this is kinda bad advice sorry
5:03 your welcome
Haha!