Sat through all of your videos from start to this one. It warms my heart to see a young man spending his time so productively instead of shacked up in his room in front of video games. Please, please, please heed the safety warnings. Please don't shrug them off and say you don't care. You'll care if that machine grabs an arm and rips it off. You've obviously put a great deal of thought into the machine, do the same for your safety every time you use it. Your series on this build is great, don't ruin it by becoming another tragic video for everyone to cringe at. And now, just a couple suggestions. Try a 4-jaw chuck, this will allow you to align your work pieces better and overcome any run out in the chuck. Never accept a few thousandths as "good enough", especially when there are simple things you can do to alleviate it. Consider changing your cut tooling to high speed steel. Also take the time to learn how to grind your cutters yourself, that way you'll be able to handle clearance issues. High speed steel will put a better finish on your work in that lathe. Carbide is fine and can create great finishes, but it's really designed for heavy cuts. It doesn't so so well with light cuts, as you're finding out.
A most impressive machine, she's coming along well, great job :) Remember though, cutting metal is all about rigidity, you had too much of the cutting tools sticking out, the squeeling sound your lathe is making is called chatter which is caused by the tool flexing. The effects of which leave a distinct pattern on the workpiece as you experienced. In all honesty the insert holders you used are way too small for your lathe, unless your doing intricate work that is. Ideally you should be using bits, or carbide insert holders as large as your toolpost will take. As a rule for boring, the deeper the hole, the bigger the boring bar in order to overcome the flex issue. As to the pulley itself, have a look at how threading is done on the lathe, much of the same principles can be applied to making a pulley if you don't have a form tool. Pulleys have specific angles and a slight recess at the base of the trench to allow for optimum traction while allowing the belt to flex along it's inner circumference. Basically set the top slide to the correct angle and cut one side first, then flip it over and do the other side. I know it's not good practice to flip work around in three jaw chucks but with limited resources it will come out better in the long run (I too have limited tooling so know what it's like). Anyhoo, keep those chips flying and I look forward to seeing more ;)
I just stumbled upon your channel, I’m a machinist by trade and hobbyist welder, and small engine mechanic and after skimming thru your lathe project, I gotta say I am thoroughly impressed. You made quite a good machine with minimal tools and just a fraction of money investment, and a ton of ingenuity! I have a mini mill and a small old lathe in my garage and you’ve given me some great ideas to improve on them. My mill I’m halfway done converting to CNC operation and my lathe needs some repairs but I’m thinking after watching your videos I may make some improvements to make it more specific to my needs. I also had a thought that you may be able to put to use, you could even make it able to cut threads if you made a set of half nuts and use your 6 ft long threaded rod. That would be a cool feature to add...
Hi, in my book you are Mr Grind. I am busy watching your videos about the home made lathe. This is the Wild-West as wild and west as you can get. I really enjoyed every video I had watched so far. I am old enough to have seen a couple of things and you are young, patient like with the grinding methods you got going, you have pioneering blood in your veins and is the type of person that when everything goes south and all around you quit, you marches on as if nothing has happened. Out of my experience of many years ago, I once build a mini landrover. I had problems getting gears to it, I got advice from engineer which was a waste of money. So after much thought, I bought a new suzuki waterpump overhead valve engine, couple an old centrifical clutch from those green english lawnmovers to it (Revs high torgue low), and here comes the gearbox. I went and buy a 50cc bike engine for cheap, removed the head, barrel and piston/connecting rod, blocked off the crankcase, add a pulley to the from connecting with a V-Belt to the centrifical clutch, sproket to a chain drive(revs low orgue high) on the rear and two rear wheels with short highpower Gates belts(the ony ones that lates a long time). It was strong enough to tow a car and proved to be very reliable over time max speed 25Km/h. I could change gears on the fly(slack on throttle), never used the clutch of the 50cc engine.. So here is my suggestion which you may consider, like or not like. Fit a 50 or 100cc motorcycle gearbox between lathe and motor, 6 gears the better......Just a wild thought. You can even use the clutch to set a slip value should lathe crash.
I just found that trick with the old chinese quad motor removing the engine components, making a shaft to replace the crank shaft and making plates to block off the motor and add another bearing into the front plate then running a pulley.. then you have bike style gears in anything.. could be slapper gears for a big gokart or small buggy.. such a fantastic home made mod!
When I'm using a shop made arbor like this, I generally face off the end slightly below flush with the workpiece. Center drill it, drill and tap the hole, and make a fairly thick washer to clamp the workpiece down. Next, indicate the end and center drill the hold down bolt. Works like a charm and avoids the runout induced by setscrews. Just a thought.
I have machined 100's of pulleys on high end lathes. This is amazing and you built it! As I am old enough to be ya grandfather and I say pay no attention to negative replys or trolls. Just good to see the young guys or girls with a creative mind. Don't worry I too been filed stabbed skinned knuckles lost finger nails; part of growing up or school of hard knocks I guess. What ever they say I give you 5 stars because my two hatchlings have no interest in machining. thanks for this vidio hope more kids see this. (anybody under 50 is a kid to me) sincerley Sam
Forgot to say I have a couple half ass utube vidios under samuel pine old school line boring with 100 yr old Greaves Klusman or punch in Greaves Klusman ; sam
I use a 12v motor off my sons old and unused fire truck it’s already wired up with forward and reverse and it’s got a geared system for more torque than speed but if you need speed it can be done too. It’s small and easy to use without compromising your work space around the lathe hope this gives you ideas to use. Great video thanks for building your lathe and doing some projects on it too.
Good work very passionate about but my friend safely first, not worthy loosing a finger or a hand dont say I dont care, we watching you and learning a lot from you we need you sound and healthy. Take care buddy From the UK
très belle usinage avec un tour qu ne possède pas toutes ses fonctions.bravo a toi.Je fait de la mécanique depuis 35 ans et je trouve que tu as de la volonté et de la persévérance.N arrête pas si comme moi c'est ta passion .Bon copeaux a toi
Cool video....like the way you didn't cut the super glue mistake or file injuries out.... everyone makes mistakes and then edits it to make it look perfect...nice job well done!!! 👍
The first time I made one of these it took forever. I was constantly changing the position of my tooling. It's a great exercise though, it really helps you learn to visualize what kind of clearance you're going to need for tight spaces and that the best method to go about something isn't always obvious. But now you know that it's easier to just plunge in with a large cut-off tool and attack the sides afterword. Since you didn't measure the angle, you're likely to get slippage if you push it real hard. Ideally, you want it to grab all of the side surface. btw, If you don't have a demagnetizer you can get a strong magnet and use it to scrabble the alignment in that chuck. Basically, you just wipe/brush the magnet around the chuck varying the position you are holding the magnet in and the direction of your strokes. It won't work as well as an actual demagnetizer but it sure helps. You may have better results varying the chuck's alignment with the earths poles constantly too but unless you have a marry-go-round in your back yard to sit in the middle of, it just seems tedious and silly to me.
Eres un ejemplo a seguir para otros jóvenes y también para los no tan jóvenes. Es admirable lo que has logrado, hacer un torno funcional desde cero con materiales de la chatarra, con poco presupuesto pero mucha fuerza de voluntad,al final, transformaste la basura en oro. 30.43 esas son las manos de un hombre.
Great job man.Now all you need is a milling machine. Build a home made lathe. It will be easy to build a milling, with your lathe. You can do alots of work with milling. All the best and waiting for your homemade milling video
DO not use gloves on high speed machines such as lathes or grinding wheels/wire wheels. Get a guard for that motor fan or swarf will tangle and break it as a minimum. I guess you got your response to the " i don't care" when you got that file in your hand. If it was a bigger one it could be in your stomach. You only have 2 hands and you need both for machining.
I know a guy who was using a hand grinder with a cutoff disc without gloves. Disc blew apart and tore his hand up! Dammed if you do dammed if you don't.
@@rubenclark8017 I would say it's advisable to use gloves when running an angle grinder (I do anyway...) if your glove gets bound up in an angle grinder, ya it sux, I've had it happen. It hurts like hell, but the little motor on the grinder WILL stop. If your glove gets bound up in a lathe, you lose the hand. While I do see your point, It's not exactly apples to apples.
Look man, I think it is awesome you are making this stuff, got that old lathe to perform for you, and are learning all that you are. Take a moment I spend a little for a personal space heater, like a propane one. I realize it is perhaps cooler in this video, but you need to shed that sweat shirt and forget any gloves. I promise you that the most expensive shop heaters are still cheaper than all the arm and body surgeries that will occur when that machine sucks you in. Don't underestimate the small horsepower, the momentum of the machine and that small horsepower will mess you up badly. A rule of thumb, if it spins, no loose or long clothing. Even a little angle grinder will bust bones and remove large sections of skin before they jam up.
Well, I read some of the comments below and pretty sure you got the message. Took Machining in college and even in the cold of winter, no sleeves and no gloves. Some minor injuries, but fortunately, everyone made it out with all the parts they came in with. Cheers brother
Almost forgot, you just got a new subscriber. Also, most of the reason for the chatter and squealing was most likely due to the speed you're running the lathe. All metals like different cutting speeds. Awesome lathe. Hope you're still making videos and sharing your work. Cheers
The pulley looks great! You should try to make the videos shorter though by removing scenes that repeat itself or only show for example 10 seconds of a step. People tend to stop watching the video if they have to wait too long for the next step. Awesome work
Get a bit of sheet metal thats as wide as your cross slide and maybe 4 or 6" long, bend the last 1/2" 90 degree and bolt it to the rear (or from the camera perspective front) of the cross slide. Will deflect the swarf so it doesnt jamb up your cross slide leadscrew.
Next project = make a half dozen aluminum or wood handles for your files! Haha j/k talk about adding insult to injury eh? Some of us always have to learn the hard way. I have plenty of scars and stitches to prove it. Kudo's on the home made lathe. I'd never attempt a project like that in a million years. But I lucked out on my smithy. Can't do big work on it but I do what I can.
Potential pf losing a fuxxing hand. He's an idiot and frankly not a single good shop would keep his arrogant ass around. It's been a couple years so hopefully he grew out of this stage a grew up....
please use the lathe tool to chamfer the items you make, instead of files and find some short no head bolts (like that you had used to trace the holes on the first mandrel plate but with the hole for the allen wrench internal a the treading, maybe the name is groan or similar) for locking the items on the shaft. When you must make a grove you can use one other kind of tool (used to separate an item from the non machined portions of the material you have on the mandrel) so you can deeply make a parallel cut, large as the bottom of the groove and later you can cut the angled sides of the groove rotating the little sliding by the some degrees of the side. your Lathe is a fantastic construction (i've seen all your videos during building it) and you are very able but now it is better for your health you'll take some lessons about using this. Maybe searching, in youtube too, someone who's knowing very well how to use the lathe, it was a simple machine but potentially very dangerous and some many tricks are very helpful to obtaining nicer and faster and very healty items. just one little trick: when you close the mandrel tight all the three screw to obtain a more sure (healty) connection and check if the bar is centered rotating by hand the mandrel during tightening jaws and checking if the bar is woweling at the opposite side of the mandrel approaching the sliding head as a checkpoint sorry for my bad language but im italian, i'll hope i was correct in my speech Hi to you P.S next step is buyng a rotating counter point to use instead of the greased cone !!! Go on Johnny bravo!
I think the chatter is coming from play in the chuck. Those bearings will have a small amount of play in them. Try getting some tapered roller bearings that you can preload axially to take up any play and hopefully make less chatter
And I think there might be a little too much tool stickout on such a narrow tool. Thats a pretty hefty machine and some faily large diameter work, could probably benefit from some bigger tooling.
You should watch some of “This old Tony “videos. He’d up your game. In my opinion your doing a great job but we can all improve. I don’t remember why you ditched the dc motor but having different speed has to be super beneficial in using a lathe
Really nice job! First one of its kind I am seeing in long long time. Truly inspirational. The video has also produced some very important safety related comments. Best wishes!
Really get a roller skate wheel on a piece of metal with a spring to tighten up the belt for now. Like on your car / truck the timing cam belt adjuster. Place your screws in to the slot on the shaft or put a flat edge on the shaft to help grip.
did you know that you can get tapered roller bearings for really cheap? this would kind of eliminate the headstock from moving back when you put axial load on it :)
i live in germany. bought mine from ebay i think... they should be available kind of everywhere. they were like 7-8$ each. well spent money, because it made the lathe go much more accurate and quiet
Pick any car you can get parts for easy. Buy a set of inner and outer front wheel bearings, with races. Install. If you want them to be the same size, just buy two of which ever size fits your need. If you want "big" bearings, buy for a big truck. You can pack the smaller bearings, but the big ones will need too be in an oil bath. And that's where the trouble starts. :-)
The chatter might be caused be resonance because you're so far away from the chock. If you set up a speed control for the motor so the speed automatically fluctuates a little bit the piece wont have a chance to resonate. I think... AvE does it this way on one of his vids.
Suggestions from experience: You're turning too fast for that large drill. You can hear it and see the chips which are being scraped. Same for the larger diameters. Use the right inches per second and you will get better results. In turning off so much of the OD it looks like you're taking no more than .025 at a time. You should be able to take .075 or even .100 IF you get the speed right and your system is stiff. Plan your work so you don't have take the part in an out the chuck so many times. It is very difficult to keep everything concentric and square - rather important for a pulley. Every time you take it out and put it back in, dial indicate it to make sure you got it back in the chuck as on center as possible. Why didn't you leave it in the chuck to cut the V groove?
I don't think he has a DRO, wondering what he has for speeds since its a motor seems to be directly attached to the shaft by a belt. 13:20 smack that new metal finish with that steel bolt loll. also 13:50 this dude just plunges in with his center dirll, he is for sure an amateur on a home made machine lol. 16:55 he is smacking his part right out of the chuck then clearly took a cut but took too much off and decides to glue it?
But guys he dosent care... Obviously he has not taking 30 min to look on you tube at lathe accidents.. 15 min in and I don't want to stand beside one again in less I'm naked.. This kid will be a classic case of natural salection.. If the the lathe dosent get him something else will
Im very impressed with your metal Lathe, it really has come a very long way since you first started. Your next steps should focus on improving the lathe itself in terms of rigidity. Unless you plan on winging it from now on, which is fine as well. Scraping the ways to reduce slop, and tapered roller bearings for the headstock would go a long way to reducing chatter. If your school has a machine shop they likely have a surface grinder where you can grind the mating surfaces for the tool post base and carriage top that will improve the fit.The threaded rod for the carriage should be replaced with a precision acme unit and the end installed in preloaded bearings should you pursue lathe threading in the future.
He's looks like he's in speed motion sometimes. Gloves are a good idea anytime you're working with your hands. Still need a quicker read. People watch industrial Arts when they have probz of their own to solve. I wanted to hear about the homemade lathe. I'll put him on my playlist "Too Much Like Work".
Forget the guard but please ditch the long sleeve. I do stupid things constantly while working but sleeves around those "set screws" while filing is asking to get wound up in a bloody mash of shavings and grease which is ideal for surgery and ensuring limb loss(take it from someone down one due to stupidity)
While working in PA several years ago I took a machine shop class at night at a community college. The first night the instructor gave us a thorough introduction to shop safety. One of the points I remember was why they have kill switches about every 20' along each wall all the way around the shop, to kill every machine throughout the shop in case someone gets caught. That was in response to a student with long hair getting caught in a lathe and it SCALPED him before anyone could get the machine turned off. Remember that lesson when wearing lose clothing, including long sleeves or gloves. There are several other safety issues but I'll refrain. You have only a set number of eyes, hands, and fingers. Be careful my friend, you don't have enough of any to sacrifice some to rotating machinery. Best wishes.
I'm amazed at the repeatability you achieve flipping the work in and out of your three-jaw. I can never do that. You must have yours dialed in really well. I was wincing while watching you use that file with no handle. Glad the injury was only minor. Overall, that's a way cool tool you've built yourself.
A boring bar is the proper tool to provide support for your cantilevered cutting tool rather than relying on the cutting tool to provide all the support for the tip.
Rule of thumb is to never use a file without a handle, esp. on the lathe. That little boo-boo could have been a lot worse. That said, if you must, try swapping ends on the file and coming up to the work from underneath. Without a death-grip, I might add. If it somehow gets pulled from your fingers, you won't go with it, and that tang will be moving away from you. You could also imp some handles, anything from a bit of large wood dowel to a golf ball with a hole drilled in it ... even duct tape is better than nothing.
You just turned the steel down to size that's why the super glue went off quickly it was still warm. Hows the height of your cutter to the middle of the work piece?
Bonjour, c'est très bien de faire une poulie mais pourquoi ne pas faire deux poulies étagées à quatre gorges pour avoir une plus grande possibilité de vitesse. Attention ne jamais travailler avec une lime sans manche les risques sont nombreux et dangereux, si il y a des vibrations il se peut fortement que les outils soit trop sorti, il aurait été bien bien d’affûter un barreau HSS avec deux angles de gorge de courroie cela évite le retournement de la pièce. Si vous n'avez pas la possibilité d'avoir des vitesses de rotation différentes installer un variateur c'est bien aussi. Sinon l'usinage est bien avec un tour de fabrication maison, bien cordialement Denis du Var France.
Glue not necessary if you made a proper fit mandrel. And if you held the job closer to the Chuck there was no need for center drill and center support.
You're very talented. Have you ever thought about getting sponsored by Go Powersports? They sponser lots of videos. The only issue I see is that you seem to make almost all of your parts instead of buying them but I don't see that being a problem. Keep up the good work.
Your lathe is just amazing, but i get triggered every time I see, that your cross slide threaded rod is not supported at the end😂 And have you thought about some simple caliper DROs oder something like that? I just made one for my lathe and it works like a charm ;)
Never use a file without a handle. My friend at work ended up with one 3" deep in his forearm... nice video. 👍👍👍 where are you from? Watching in Alabama
On V-belt pulleys, all (except International Harvester 'wide' pulleys) are 40-degrees between faces, and the belt should NEVER touch the bottom flat...friction is carried SOLELY by the sides of the belt, while the tensile is carried by a combination of the friction hold and the belt itself. If the pulley allows the belt to touch the flat (bottom) tension and friction are reduced (causing a slip...and often why belts 'squeal', because wear and age have reduced their dimensional size while the pulley was probably cut or formed too wide starting life).
Sat through all of your videos from start to this one. It warms my heart to see a young man spending his time so productively instead of shacked up in his room in front of video games.
Please, please, please heed the safety warnings. Please don't shrug them off and say you don't care. You'll care if that machine grabs an arm and rips it off. You've obviously put a great deal of thought into the machine, do the same for your safety every time you use it. Your series on this build is great, don't ruin it by becoming another tragic video for everyone to cringe at.
And now, just a couple suggestions. Try a 4-jaw chuck, this will allow you to align your work pieces better and overcome any run out in the chuck. Never accept a few thousandths as "good enough", especially when there are simple things you can do to alleviate it.
Consider changing your cut tooling to high speed steel. Also take the time to learn how to grind your cutters yourself, that way you'll be able to handle clearance issues. High speed steel will put a better finish on your work in that lathe. Carbide is fine and can create great finishes, but it's really designed for heavy cuts. It doesn't so so well with light cuts, as you're finding out.
A most impressive machine, she's coming along well, great job :)
Remember though, cutting metal is all about rigidity, you had too much of the cutting tools sticking out, the squeeling sound your lathe is making is called chatter which is caused by the tool flexing. The effects of which leave a distinct pattern on the workpiece as you experienced.
In all honesty the insert holders you used are way too small for your lathe, unless your doing intricate work that is. Ideally you should be using bits, or carbide insert holders as large as your toolpost will take.
As a rule for boring, the deeper the hole, the bigger the boring bar in order to overcome the flex issue.
As to the pulley itself, have a look at how threading is done on the lathe, much of the same principles can be applied to making a pulley if you don't have a form tool. Pulleys have specific angles and a slight recess at the base of the trench to allow for optimum traction while allowing the belt to flex along it's inner circumference.
Basically set the top slide to the correct angle and cut one side first, then flip it over and do the other side.
I know it's not good practice to flip work around in three jaw chucks but with limited resources it will come out better in the long run (I too have limited tooling so know what it's like).
Anyhoo, keep those chips flying and I look forward to seeing more ;)
its*
I just stumbled upon your channel, I’m a machinist by trade and hobbyist welder, and small engine mechanic and after skimming thru your lathe project, I gotta say I am thoroughly impressed. You made quite a good machine with minimal tools and just a fraction of money investment, and a ton of ingenuity! I have a mini mill and a small old lathe in my garage and you’ve given me some great ideas to improve on them. My mill I’m halfway done converting to CNC operation and my lathe needs some repairs but I’m thinking after watching your videos I may make some improvements to make it more specific to my needs. I also had a thought that you may be able to put to use, you could even make it able to cut threads if you made a set of half nuts and use your 6 ft long threaded rod. That would be a cool feature to add...
Hi, in my book you are Mr Grind. I am busy watching your videos about the home made lathe.
This is the Wild-West as wild and west as you can get. I really enjoyed every video I had watched so far. I am old enough to have seen a couple of things and you are young, patient like with the grinding methods you got going, you have pioneering blood in your veins and is the type of person that when everything goes south and all around you quit, you marches on as if nothing has happened.
Out of my experience of many years ago, I once build a mini landrover. I had problems getting gears to it, I got advice from engineer which was a waste of money. So after much thought, I bought a new suzuki waterpump overhead valve engine, couple an old centrifical clutch from those green english lawnmovers to it (Revs high torgue low), and here comes the gearbox. I went and buy a 50cc bike engine for cheap, removed the head, barrel and piston/connecting rod, blocked off the crankcase, add a pulley to the from connecting with a V-Belt to the centrifical clutch, sproket to a chain drive(revs low orgue high) on the rear and two rear wheels with short highpower Gates belts(the ony ones that lates a long time). It was strong enough to tow a car and proved to be very reliable over time max speed 25Km/h. I could change gears on the fly(slack on throttle), never used the clutch of the 50cc engine..
So here is my suggestion which you may consider, like or not like.
Fit a 50 or 100cc motorcycle gearbox between lathe and motor, 6 gears the better......Just a wild thought. You can even use the clutch to set a slip value should lathe crash.
I just found that trick with the old chinese quad motor removing the engine components, making a shaft to replace the crank shaft and making plates to block off the motor and add another bearing into the front plate then running a pulley.. then you have bike style gears in anything.. could be slapper gears for a big gokart or small buggy.. such a fantastic home made mod!
When I'm using a shop made arbor like this, I generally face off the end slightly below flush with the workpiece. Center drill it, drill and tap the hole, and make a fairly thick washer to clamp the workpiece down. Next, indicate the end and center drill the hold down bolt. Works like a charm and avoids the runout induced by setscrews. Just a thought.
I have machined 100's of pulleys on high end lathes. This is amazing and you built it! As I am old enough to be ya grandfather and I say pay no attention to negative replys or trolls. Just good to see the young guys or girls with a creative mind. Don't worry I too been filed stabbed skinned knuckles lost finger nails; part of growing up or school of hard knocks I guess. What ever they say I give you 5 stars because my two hatchlings have no interest in machining. thanks for this vidio hope more kids see this. (anybody under 50 is a kid to me)
sincerley Sam
Forgot to say I have a couple half ass utube vidios under samuel pine old school line boring with 100 yr old Greaves Klusman or punch in Greaves Klusman ; sam
Очень хороший станок получился. Много труда и материала потрачено на него.
I use a 12v motor off my sons old and unused fire truck it’s already wired up with forward and reverse and it’s got a geared system for more torque than speed but if you need speed it can be done too. It’s small and easy to use without compromising your work space around the lathe hope this gives you ideas to use. Great video thanks for building your lathe and doing some projects on it too.
Great job for a young man on a diy lathe. Congratulations from Austria.
WOW! Your lathe and new lighting/camera are working awesome!!!!!! thanks!
Excellent work. you should now hack cheap digital calipers, and add digital readout DRO and then your lathe would really kick ass..
Good work very passionate about but my friend safely first, not worthy loosing a finger or a hand dont say I dont care, we watching you and learning a lot from you we need you sound and healthy.
Take care buddy
From the UK
très belle usinage avec un tour qu ne possède pas toutes ses fonctions.bravo a toi.Je fait de la mécanique depuis 35 ans et je trouve que tu as de la volonté et de la persévérance.N arrête pas si comme moi c'est ta passion .Bon copeaux a toi
Geezzzzz. If you only had a lathe to make handles for your files... lol
Great videos
That's a Man who knows how to run his lathe!!
Definitely not. The machine is an impressive build but his workflow makes me cringe (I'm a trained mechanic).
Lucky it wasn't bad. Golf balls make great file handles
Cool video....like the way you didn't cut the super glue mistake or file injuries out.... everyone makes mistakes and then edits it to make it look perfect...nice job well done!!! 👍
I'm impressed with how good the lathe project turned out and i seems to work rather well!
Great lathe, all it needs is three phase variable speed motor and maybe a guard.
good job by your feeling not much by measuring haa ...amazing ..I like ure video
The first time I made one of these it took forever. I was constantly changing the position of my tooling. It's a great exercise though, it really helps you learn to visualize what kind of clearance you're going to need for tight spaces and that the best method to go about something isn't always obvious. But now you know that it's easier to just plunge in with a large cut-off tool and attack the sides afterword. Since you didn't measure the angle, you're likely to get slippage if you push it real hard. Ideally, you want it to grab all of the side surface.
btw, If you don't have a demagnetizer you can get a strong magnet and use it to scrabble the alignment in that chuck. Basically, you just wipe/brush the magnet around the chuck varying the position you are holding the magnet in and the direction of your strokes. It won't work as well as an actual demagnetizer but it sure helps. You may have better results varying the chuck's alignment with the earths poles constantly too but unless you have a marry-go-round in your back yard to sit in the middle of, it just seems tedious and silly to me.
Eres un ejemplo a seguir para otros jóvenes y también para los no tan jóvenes.
Es admirable lo que has logrado, hacer un torno funcional desde cero con materiales de la chatarra, con poco presupuesto pero mucha fuerza de voluntad,al final, transformaste la basura en oro.
30.43 esas son las manos de un hombre.
Класс! Отличная работа, здорово сделано!👍👍👍
Lathe looks home made. I just bought a 500$ warner swasey. Hope it turns ok, your seems to so now I feel pretty good
Bonno460xvr he has a whole series where he builds it. Pretty interesting
Great job man.Now all you need is a milling machine. Build a home made lathe. It will be easy to build a milling, with your lathe. You can do alots of work with milling. All the best and waiting for your homemade milling video
You take a big piece of aluminium and turn it into grit. Nice. Finally you should collect all the grit and melt it into a big piece of aluminium.
DO not use gloves on high speed machines such as lathes or grinding wheels/wire wheels. Get a guard for that motor fan or swarf will tangle and break it as a minimum. I guess you got your response to the " i don't care" when you got that file in your hand. If it was a bigger one it could be in your stomach. You only have 2 hands and you need both for machining.
Dont forget the long sleeve unzipped baggy sweatshirt just asking to get sucked in
Sensible advice to follow couldnt of put it better myself.
0k
I know a guy who was using a hand grinder with a cutoff disc without gloves. Disc blew apart and tore his hand up! Dammed if you do dammed if you don't.
@@rubenclark8017 I would say it's advisable to use gloves when running an angle grinder (I do anyway...) if your glove gets bound up in an angle grinder, ya it sux, I've had it happen. It hurts like hell, but the little motor on the grinder WILL stop. If your glove gets bound up in a lathe, you lose the hand. While I do see your point, It's not exactly apples to apples.
Look man, I think it is awesome you are making this stuff, got that old lathe to perform for you, and are learning all that you are. Take a moment I spend a little for a personal space heater, like a propane one. I realize it is perhaps cooler in this video, but you need to shed that sweat shirt and forget any gloves. I promise you that the most expensive shop heaters are still cheaper than all the arm and body surgeries that will occur when that machine sucks you in. Don't underestimate the small horsepower, the momentum of the machine and that small horsepower will mess you up badly. A rule of thumb, if it spins, no loose or long clothing. Even a little angle grinder will bust bones and remove large sections of skin before they jam up.
Thank you for your works and video it helps a lot watching from.phillipines
You're a genius. There's people who make a lot of money machining and welding and u do both. Awesome video!👍
Great job on your lathe build.
What you've accomplished is nothing short of amazing.
Well, I read some of the comments below and pretty sure you got the message.
Took Machining in college and even in the cold of winter, no sleeves and no gloves.
Some minor injuries, but fortunately, everyone made it out with all the parts they came in with.
Cheers brother
Almost forgot, you just got a new subscriber. Also, most of the reason for the chatter and squealing was most likely due to the speed you're running the lathe. All metals like different cutting speeds. Awesome lathe. Hope you're still making videos and sharing your work. Cheers
Love your lather.
pedum tssss
The pulley looks great! You should try to make the videos shorter though by removing scenes that repeat itself or only show for example 10 seconds of a step. People tend to stop watching the video if they have to wait too long for the next step. Awesome work
NamibianBackyardEngineering I personally like longer videos
NamibianBackyardEngineering: Your 'e in minority !:-))
Get a bit of sheet metal thats as wide as your cross slide and maybe 4 or 6" long, bend the last 1/2" 90 degree and bolt it to the rear (or from the camera perspective front) of the cross slide. Will deflect the swarf so it doesnt jamb up your cross slide leadscrew.
Next project = make a half dozen aluminum or wood handles for your files! Haha j/k talk about adding insult to injury eh? Some of us always have to learn the hard way. I have plenty of scars and stitches to prove it. Kudo's on the home made lathe. I'd never attempt a project like that in a million years. But I lucked out on my smithy. Can't do big work on it but I do what I can.
Jesus dude! You have a lot of potential man. Great job!
Potential pf losing a fuxxing hand. He's an idiot and frankly not a single good shop would keep his arrogant ass around. It's been a couple years so hopefully he grew out of this stage a grew up....
please use the lathe tool to chamfer the items you make, instead of files and find some short no head bolts (like that you had used to trace the holes on the first mandrel plate but with the hole for the allen wrench internal a the treading, maybe the name is groan or similar) for locking the items on the shaft. When you must make a grove you can use one other kind of tool (used to separate an item from the non machined portions of the material you have on the mandrel) so you can deeply make a parallel cut, large as the bottom of the groove and later you can cut the angled sides of the groove rotating the little sliding by the some degrees of the side.
your Lathe is a fantastic construction (i've seen all your videos during building it) and you are very able but now it is better for your health you'll take some lessons about using this.
Maybe searching, in youtube too, someone who's knowing very well how to use the lathe, it was a simple machine but potentially very dangerous and some many tricks are very helpful to obtaining nicer and faster and very healty items. just one little trick: when you close the mandrel tight all the three screw to obtain a more sure (healty) connection and check if the bar is centered rotating by hand the mandrel during tightening jaws and checking if the bar is woweling at the opposite side of the mandrel approaching the sliding head as a checkpoint
sorry for my bad language but im italian, i'll hope i was correct in my speech
Hi to you
P.S next step is buyng a rotating counter point to use instead of the greased cone !!!
Go on Johnny bravo!
turnd out great ,very nice work ! long sleeves on a lathe will eat your arm alive
That Lathe you made trun out good. Your cutting metal and mKing chip ‘s right good to see and good job.
I think the chatter is coming from play in the chuck. Those bearings will have a small amount of play in them. Try getting some tapered roller bearings that you can preload axially to take up any play and hopefully make less chatter
And I think there might be a little too much tool stickout on such a narrow tool. Thats a pretty hefty machine and some faily large diameter work, could probably benefit from some bigger tooling.
The last gladiator !!! Good job !
You should watch some of “This old Tony “videos. He’d up your game. In my opinion your doing a great job but we can all improve. I don’t remember why you ditched the dc motor but having different speed has to be super beneficial in using a lathe
Really nice job! First one of its kind I am seeing in long long time. Truly inspirational. The video has also produced some very important safety related comments. Best wishes!
Also it’s good practice to only cut towards the work not away. You can break the cutter or worse. Good job though
Hi friend. Do you make your lathe yourself?
Really get a roller skate wheel on a piece of metal with a spring to tighten up the belt for now. Like on your car / truck the timing cam belt adjuster. Place your screws in to the slot on the shaft or put a flat edge on the shaft to help grip.
Great attempt ,well done
el torno lo fabrico usted? se ve bien lo mismo que la polea
Great video but it probably would have been better to edit it down just a little bit
did you know that you can get tapered roller bearings for really cheap? this would kind of eliminate the headstock from moving back when you put axial load on it :)
Where from?
i live in germany. bought mine from ebay i think... they should be available kind of everywhere. they were like 7-8$ each. well spent money, because it made the lathe go much more accurate and quiet
Got it. Thanks!
Pick any car you can get parts for easy. Buy a set of inner and outer front wheel bearings, with races. Install. If you want them to be the same size, just buy two of which ever size fits your need. If you want "big" bearings, buy for a big truck. You can pack the smaller bearings, but the big ones will need too be in an oil bath. And that's where the trouble starts. :-)
Buy some red Scotchbrite pads, and maybe a couple Green ones, too.
The chatter might be caused be resonance because you're so far away from the chock. If you set up a speed control for the motor so the speed automatically fluctuates a little bit the piece wont have a chance to resonate. I think... AvE does it this way on one of his vids.
Moi trai bon molist dingection
Suggestions from experience: You're turning too fast for that large drill. You can hear it and see the chips which are being scraped. Same for the larger diameters. Use the right inches per second and you will get better results. In turning off so much of the OD it looks like you're taking no more than .025 at a time. You should be able to take .075 or even .100 IF you get the speed right and your system is stiff. Plan your work so you don't have take the part in an out the chuck so many times. It is very difficult to keep everything concentric and square - rather important for a pulley. Every time you take it out and put it back in, dial indicate it to make sure you got it back in the chuck as on center as possible. Why didn't you leave it in the chuck to cut the V groove?
I don't think he has a DRO, wondering what he has for speeds since its a motor seems to be directly attached to the shaft by a belt. 13:20 smack that new metal finish with that steel bolt loll. also 13:50 this dude just plunges in with his center dirll, he is for sure an amateur on a home made machine lol. 16:55 he is smacking his part right out of the chuck then clearly took a cut but took too much off and decides to glue it?
But guys he dosent care... Obviously he has not taking 30 min to look on you tube at lathe accidents.. 15 min in and I don't want to stand beside one again in less I'm naked.. This kid will be a classic case of natural salection.. If the the lathe dosent get him something else will
Instead of files use emery paper, you also need a slower speed to do aluminum :)
Love your video bro. But GOD DAMN PUT A GUARD ON THAT LATHE AND STOP WEARING SWEATERS OR GLOVES.
god forbid anything happens !
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O god forgive they dont know when happens... shit. ... happened.. safety first...
Did you melt down that aluminum on a home forge?
Im very impressed with your metal Lathe, it really has come a very long way since you first started. Your next steps should focus on improving the lathe itself in terms of rigidity. Unless you plan on winging it from now on, which is fine as well. Scraping the ways to reduce slop, and tapered roller bearings for the headstock would go a long way to reducing chatter. If your school has a machine shop they likely have a surface grinder where you can grind the mating surfaces for the tool post base and carriage top that will improve the fit.The threaded rod for the carriage should be replaced with a precision acme unit and the end installed in preloaded bearings should you pursue lathe threading in the future.
your most dangerous enemy ?...... yourself . oh boy; take care . there is no spares for fingers and eyes .
He's looks like he's in speed motion sometimes. Gloves are a good idea anytime you're working with your hands. Still need a quicker read. People watch industrial Arts when they have probz of their own to solve. I wanted to hear about the homemade lathe. I'll put him on my playlist "Too Much Like Work".
Thanks ... I like the machine he built - but seeing him work? Ouch.
Awesome job!
Great job
No automatic feed?
Forget the guard but please ditch the long sleeve. I do stupid things constantly while working but sleeves around those "set screws" while filing is asking to get wound up in a bloody mash of shavings and grease which is ideal for surgery and ensuring limb loss(take it from someone down one due to stupidity)
While working in PA several years ago I took a machine shop class at night at a community college. The first night the instructor gave us a thorough introduction to shop safety. One of the points I remember was why they have kill switches about every 20' along each wall all the way around the shop, to kill every machine throughout the shop in case someone gets caught. That was in response to a student with long hair getting caught in a lathe and it SCALPED him before anyone could get the machine turned off. Remember that lesson when wearing lose clothing, including long sleeves or gloves.
There are several other safety issues but I'll refrain.
You have only a set number of eyes, hands, and fingers. Be careful my friend, you don't have enough of any to sacrifice some to rotating machinery.
Best wishes.
Was gonna comment on the gloves and loose clothes but plenty of you already beat me to it. LoL
Your ideas so awesome...
esta pieza te queda perfecta si la haces entre centros, y con una hta de forma, tomando en cuenta lo docil del material aluminio.
The lathe is awesome! Good for you!! But where is the cooling?
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Ola amigo esse seu torno e caseiro ???
I'm amazed at the repeatability you achieve flipping the work in and out of your three-jaw. I can never do that. You must have yours dialed in really well. I was wincing while watching you use that file with no handle. Glad the injury was only minor. Overall, that's a way cool tool you've built yourself.
Does your machine only have one speed?
Damn that lathe almost looks commercial. Nice job dude!
A boring bar is the proper tool to provide support for your cantilevered cutting tool rather than relying on the cutting tool to provide all the support for the tip.
Nice work. Wrong tooling , but nice job.
Rule of thumb is to never use a file without a handle, esp. on the lathe. That little boo-boo could have been a lot worse.
That said, if you must, try swapping ends on the file and coming up to the work from underneath. Without a death-grip, I might add. If it somehow gets pulled from your fingers, you won't go with it, and that tang will be moving away from you. You could also imp some handles, anything from a bit of large wood dowel to a golf ball with a hole drilled in it ... even duct tape is better than nothing.
You would love this also th-cam.com/video/1oaC8VH5LC0/w-d-xo.html
You just turned the steel down to size that's why the super glue went off quickly it was still warm. Hows the height of your cutter to the middle of the work piece?
Nice Job!
you should make a cover for your motor to keep the metal shavings out of it as they will cause catastrophic failure
Instead of using a file, use 0.0 sandpaper. It will improve the finish of your piece.
Bonjour, c'est très bien de faire une poulie mais pourquoi ne pas faire deux poulies étagées à quatre gorges pour avoir une plus grande possibilité de vitesse. Attention ne jamais travailler avec une lime sans manche les risques sont nombreux et dangereux, si il y a des vibrations il se peut fortement que les outils soit trop sorti, il aurait été bien bien d’affûter un barreau HSS avec deux angles de gorge de courroie cela évite le retournement de la pièce. Si vous n'avez pas la possibilité d'avoir des vitesses de rotation différentes installer un variateur c'est bien aussi. Sinon l'usinage est bien avec un tour de fabrication maison, bien cordialement Denis du Var France.
Glue not necessary if you made a proper fit mandrel.
And if you held the job closer to the Chuck there was no need for center drill and center support.
Nice job
Hey dude! Dont wear gloves while turning. Its very dangerous.
nice work
You're very talented. Have you ever thought about getting sponsored by Go Powersports? They sponser lots of videos. The only issue I see is that you seem to make almost all of your parts instead of buying them but I don't see that being a problem.
Keep up the good work.
how much did the machines and all of the cutting tools cost ?
ever thought of adding a keyway to the pulley, you probably shouldn't hold it with just setscrews
If you use cap fluid it will make beautiful cuts and beautiful threads
You should try and make some sort of hydraulic cylinder! That would be a great test
Justin, that´s Major League Lathing.
well said Wild Weasel
I just want to add that you may want to use sanding paper to finish the job
Had it been moi doing this deal I would have slightly heated the ring expanding it thus a very tight fit up !
and let the shaft cool before test fitting
Those aluminum chips were *tiny*!
Use a slower speed and you'll see nice, long curls
Awesome work remember lube is your friend
is your tool cutting tip below the center of your job?, that maybe the cause of the chatter!
Your lathe is just amazing, but i get triggered every time I see, that your cross slide threaded rod is not supported at the end😂
And have you thought about some simple caliper DROs oder something like that? I just made one for my lathe and it works like a charm ;)
The great to show up
I have to learn
Never use a file without a handle. My friend at work ended up with one 3" deep in his forearm... nice video. 👍👍👍 where are you from?
Watching in Alabama
Nui
So, I need to make 2 handles for my files
Absolutly You must be careful. It's safety first.
On V-belt pulleys, all (except International Harvester 'wide' pulleys) are 40-degrees between faces, and the belt should NEVER touch the bottom flat...friction is carried SOLELY by the sides of the belt, while the tensile is carried by a combination of the friction hold and the belt itself. If the pulley allows the belt to touch the flat (bottom) tension and friction are reduced (causing a slip...and often why belts 'squeal', because wear and age have reduced their dimensional size while the pulley was probably cut or formed too wide starting life).
when you grind through the holes, put a napkin behind the Cams, you don't have a lathe. clean chip cartridge