If you want to cut the vibrations down, pour a concrete base to bolt the lathe to. Filling the voids in the headstock with concrete will help a lot too.
Leaving those bearings open so chips get into them is a bad idea. You need some oil seals on them. Chips, dust, dirt etc can get in there in NO Time. I have a question. Why did you use a solid shaft instead of a hollow shaft you could pass through for longer items?
One to create another even better. That is how we have soooo many fine things to work with now. Well done fella. You must remember that only one bearing is needed to hold a shaft. All in all a great build fella ! Regular greasing is a must as well to pressure the stuff out of the chuck. Steel for tat tail end hub will give you less grief in the long run as well. Indicate the chuck alignment plate. That is most likely where your runout is but at the same time, a 10 $ chuck is not a 700 $ unit. Always tighten at least 2 chuck screws too. That will help a lot and NEVER run a dry bearing bud. LOL, time will get ya all dialed in fella. Great build ! Yer noggin is doing great fella !
You'll kill those bearings in no time running them dry. They're meant to be packed with grease. Grease seals on both sides would be advisable to keep the grease from being flung out and to keep chips out of the bearings. To vary the spindle speed, stepped drive pulleys are the simple way. Variable speed is nice but you can usually get close enough to the ideal surface cutting speed with a pair of stepped pulleys.
Good job. Yeah. Other than the bearings not being lubricated I still give you an A plus. You made something i would have never attempted to do myself. Smart kid. Love your builds man. Keep up the great work. Im a new fan of your channel & seen the entire lathe build. Love it.
Always take apart new Chinese made chucks and clean before use. They are normally full of casting grit and junk. Grease those new bearings! They'll burn up in no time with no lube.
good job!, but as others have already stated the bearings you have installed are often installed along with a oil/ grease seal on both ends to keep in lubricant and keep out contaminants so that you can get longer life, reduce heat buildup and friction. Grease will be the best bet for most of the RPM you'll be using, anything over 1500 rpms and a good gear oil is the way to.
RBW bubby i'm proud of you for doing this for yourself im sure you will improve it in time but you have to start somewhere and you got a big jump on this when you built it. glad to know of you.
The lathe looks awesome! This is the first video I've seen of it(new subsciber). I hate to reiterate what everyone else said but I agree, those bearings need grease. They may not get as much wear as they would inside an axle but they will get worn out pretty fast. I'm not sure how an oiler system works but maybe drilling the bearing housing so you could use a Zirc fitting or something.
I'm finishing up a homemade milling machine and have started getting the parts together for my own lathe build. You did an excellent job here, fuck what anyone else says. It's impressive as hell.
I know this is old as hell but you can buy a small 4speed 110cc atv engine, then gut the top end. Remove the crank and make a straight shaft with a pully or gear on it then hook your motor through that into the lathe. You would have a 4 speed gearbox with reverse.
Oh Hell Yea!! Good work man! I like this series, you have an engineering mind. I agree and liked other's comments about those bearings needing lubrication AND seals to keep grease in and keep grime/dirt out. You're two speed transmission for go-karts, or a version of that design might work with changing speeds on your lathe.....just a thought.
If you want to cut the vibrations down, pour a concrete base to bolt the lathe to. Filling the voids in the headstock with concrete will help a lot too.
Leaving those bearings open so chips get into them is a bad idea. You need some oil seals on them. Chips, dust, dirt etc can get in there in NO Time. I have a question. Why did you use a solid shaft instead of a hollow shaft you could pass through for longer items?
One to create another even better. That is how we have soooo many fine things to work with now. Well done fella. You must remember that only one bearing is needed to hold a shaft. All in all a great build fella ! Regular greasing is a must as well to pressure the stuff out of the chuck. Steel for tat tail end hub will give you less grief in the long run as well. Indicate the chuck alignment plate. That is most likely where your runout is but at the same time, a 10 $ chuck is not a 700 $ unit. Always tighten at least 2 chuck screws too. That will help a lot and NEVER run a dry bearing bud. LOL, time will get ya all dialed in fella. Great build ! Yer noggin is doing great fella !
You'll kill those bearings in no time running them dry. They're meant to be packed with grease. Grease seals on both sides would be advisable to keep the grease from being flung out and to keep chips out of the bearings. To vary the spindle speed, stepped drive pulleys are the simple way. Variable speed is nice but you can usually get close enough to the ideal surface cutting speed with a pair of stepped pulleys.
Good job. Yeah. Other than the bearings not being lubricated I still give you an A plus. You made something i would have never attempted to do myself. Smart kid. Love your builds man. Keep up the great work. Im a new fan of your channel & seen the entire lathe build. Love it.
Awesome
Always take apart new Chinese made chucks and clean before use. They are normally full of casting grit and junk. Grease those new bearings! They'll burn up in no time with no lube.
Wow, man you are awesome!....didn't realize that young people still had such skills and determination!
Dude, as an ASE Master since 78, I have wanted a metal lathe for sometime now. You have a nice sweet setup.
Great job champion! Enjoyed watching this and good to see a young guy having a go! 👍
good job!, but as others have already stated the bearings you have installed are often installed along with a oil/ grease seal on both ends to keep in lubricant and keep out contaminants so that you can get longer life, reduce heat buildup and friction. Grease will be the best bet for most of the RPM you'll be using, anything over 1500 rpms and a good gear oil is the way to.
RBW bubby i'm proud of you for doing this for yourself im sure you will improve it in time but you have to start somewhere and you got a big jump on this when you built it. glad to know of you.
The lathe looks awesome! This is the first video I've seen of it(new subsciber). I hate to reiterate what everyone else said but I agree, those bearings need grease. They may not get as much wear as they would inside an axle but they will get worn out pretty fast. I'm not sure how an oiler system works but maybe drilling the bearing housing so you could use a Zirc fitting or something.
Fantastic dude. Love your lathe series! You could add stepper motors to that bad boy and add some cnc capability!
I'm finishing up a homemade milling machine and have started getting the parts together for my own lathe build. You did an excellent job here, fuck what anyone else says. It's impressive as hell.
Well, as I saw your first video my thoughts were "That ain't gonna work even close to a lathe.."
I know this is old as hell but you can buy a small 4speed 110cc atv engine, then gut the top end. Remove the crank and make a straight shaft with a pully or gear on it then hook your motor through that into the lathe. You would have a 4 speed gearbox with reverse.
Oh Hell Yea!! Good work man! I like this series, you have an engineering mind. I agree and liked other's comments about those bearings needing lubrication AND seals to keep grease in and keep grime/dirt out. You're two speed transmission for go-karts, or a version of that design might work with changing speeds on your lathe.....just a thought.
bro, your machine is one of the best diy lathe i have ever seen.
Very impressive. I was surprised by your choice of bearings but cheap and readily available is a great advantage.