Ford Ranger Camshaft Synchronizer DIY How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This video will show you how to change the camshaft synchronizer on your Ford Ranger. It will show the location of the camshaft synchronizer, the removal process, and the installation. Note, before removing the camshaft synchronizer, make sure you mark the location of the housing and tab with a magic marker to ensure the replacement camshaft synchronizer goes in exactly the same way.
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Dude that squeaking made me think my bushings were out or something to do with the front end. Guarantee it's coming from that now. Bro you are a fucking life saver. Thanks for the help!
Just a note: This video is for 95-up 3.0s. On 93-94s, a distributor is mounted where the cam synchronizer is mounted. On distributor engines, the CS is a integral part of the distributor. The last 10mm bolt you removed is the "distributor hold-down bolt," that's normally used to hold the disty in place.
Clearest video I've seen on this procedure. Thanks for sharing!
"I dont know if you can hear that or not" *Ears ringing*
Thanks for the video!
Solid tips, look forward to trying this out.
Don't got too much squeaking on my ranger, but I think it's starting to get there (286,000km.) the starts aren't as strong as they used to be.
Thanks brother. Giving me the confidence to do this!
Thank-you very much. Learn something everyday. This was very useful.
Thankyou so much I needed this video
Super super super helpful, thanks!!!!!
My 3.0 v6 syncronizer is not squeaking yet but my engine is running rough and has lost some power. I hear that replacing this part along with the sensor can help with the performance of the engine. When you replaced that part did you noticed any difference in engune performance?
Did you ever fix your issue? It's never a good idea to just throw parts at your vehicle just based on something you read or heard. I went down that trail and it leads nowhere except to an empty bank account.
Thanks man great explanation!!
So do you need to have the engine at top dead center, or does it not matter as long as the sync is exactly in the same position?
All these camshaft synchronizer are known to go out between 45K to 90K miles due to poor oil circulation from a design flaw when they converted it over from distributor ignition to distributor free system. The best way to make the camshaft synchronizer last longer is to change oil before it becomes filthy dirty at 5K miles oil changes or when oil becomes dark like dark pancake syrup. The bonus is a longer lasting camshaft synchronizer lasting to 90K miles and an engine that will last up to 300K miles.
Bad design on ford’s part. The thing can’t be oiled internally once it’s in. Definitely oil it before going in!
what brand was the replacement part? Did it last long or did you have to replace it again down the road? Thank you for the video. Will try and knock this out soon on my wife's Ranger
Motorcraft
Let’s say someone didn’t mark it and just popped in a new one, also got the check engine, how would someone correct the position ?
first you have to make sure the truck is top dead center on the right stroke. The you have to take the synchronizer out and make sure the tab that spins around is right in the middle of the space. Most of the time when you buy a new synchronizer it comes with a tool that holds it in place so that way it doesn't move at all when you're installing the synchronizer. Once you put that plastic tool which is like a cover on the top you line the arrow up on it with the 10 mm bolt. After that you should be good to go because your synchronizer will be in time with your motor and you should be all set. If you don't make sure it's on top that center and right it'll run like crap with barely any power or will even misfire. It's pretty simple to do hopefully that's helpful
Thank you that helped me a lot
I changed the head Cylinders on my ranger and i took the black Camshaft Position Sensor off for room. Put everything together and now it has no power and makes a loud click sound every 3 seconds so i left it off till i can figure out the problem. I need help if anyone knows or had experience. I bought 2 different Camshaft Position Sensors, the same one i took off on top in back of engine and the one in the front on bottom to see and hope it works.
Will this work on a 1997 3.0 liter ranger splash edition ?
How about when units are ok but the synchronizer in wrong position ?
Did you find the answer
@@jsolo7576 yes I did, can I some how help you?
Nothing out of the blue has happened on my ranger, lot of stuff was fixed but not sure if the camshaft is fixed cause I took it to an auto shop. My gas pedal is loose so gotta adjust the throttle cable to get the power. That’s basically it lol
Can u make a video on how to adjust a throttle cable on the 3.0
Hey, does the outer section of the synchronizer go in only 1 way? I mean do I need to only remember the location of the tooth on the inside that spins?
Look at the video at 2:23. I marked the location of the tab inside the circular area of the synchronizer and also the location relative to the screw on the left hand side. The synchronizer has grooves so they adjust the positioning of the unit. It really only goes in one way.
You said it made a squeaking noise. At idle or at certain speed?
I believe it made noise at idle and at speed.
Think I've got this problem beginning to occur. Although mine started as very faint and only apparent about a year ago when you were really stepping on the gas. And I mean barely audible you could kinda hear it if you mashed down the pedal going up an on ramp to try to get up to speed on a short amount of road. Fast forward a year later. Can't hear it at idle but takes much less acceleration to make it chirp and I swear the truck has been getting less mpg by about 5 on average per gallon, performance seems slightly subdued, and the starts while still pretty solid are getting weaker and sometimes longer or seem like it misses for a split second when immediate when it turns over then it's fine except for lesser performance. Anyone with these problems or who have fixed them please let me know if this sounds like the synchronizer. So far alot of signs are pointing to it
What size engine were you working on in this video
jeremysikes420 - 3.0L
Mine failed this morning on the way into work, haven't had a chance to tear into yet. However, I'm pretty sure my engine is seized up. Thanks for the vid!
I believe this failing causes the engine to have 0 oil pressure and will sieze quickly after.
Any different for a 2.3L? 2008
Is this just for the automatic trans? Mine is a manual 2003 Ranger 3.0L
This is for any 3.0 motor, regardless of transmission. Mine is a 5 speed manual as well. Thankfully I don't hear any squeals.
So you can do this without the top dead center thing as long as you mark the tab and put the new cam synchro in the same spot?
Correct, you have to be diligent about marking everything so it all lines up correctly with that new part.
@@UsefulVids it's better to just make sure it stopped at center because the part you're replacing might not necessarily be perfectly time so if you just make sure it stopped at center you know everything will be perfect.
Pretty much. The TDC method must be used if you didn't mark the sync/tab positions or if the old parts orientation is questionable. Also, when you pull the sync out the tab will usually shift an 1/8" or so. This is because of the helical gear on the shaft. So just note the shift and put the new sync's tab in the shifted position before reinstalling. The tab should move back to the correct position if everything was aligned properly.
Do anyone knows where can l get the o rings for the camshaf sincronizer
Did you need a angled screw drive (or right angled) to remove the shaft?
Gary no, you simply grab the shaft once the screw securing it is removed, and pull up while wiggling the shaft. It will come out, but may take some force.
Rəeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Thank you!
Anyone seen this for the 4.0 explorer I can't find a video anywhere and I being told I have to take off the intake on the 4.0 and dont want to do that is not necessary. Help..
Yeah....on the 4.0 OHV engine....which I assume you're referencing ....it is at VERY back of engine..and you need to remove UPPER intake manifold to access/perform replacement and dial in procedure....my 94 Ranger needed it and didn't want to hassle with big process so had mechanic do it......$
The death chirp
Is this the same for 1993 3.0 ohv?
No
Does cylinder 1 need to be at top dead center?
@Michael Bowman just dont rotate the engine after you pull it out of the block.
Michael Bowman well thanks guys I did it’s about a month ago and it went great
Michael Bowman I had replaced the tensioner months prior because it locked up on the way to work an throw the belt. Once I put the new synchronizer in the squeak went away
If you have a 95 or older 4.0 OHV engine...yes...you have to put Cylinder-1 at TDC on compression stroke (not exhaust stroke)...and then a whole host of other steps to complete setup.
What's the purpose of the synchronizer?
When Ford first went to the distributorless ignition system the problem they faced was the distributor turned the oil pump off the camshaft gear. So their fix was to install a synchronizer and they put the cmp sensor on top since it ran off the camshaft. The most important thing is to have the motor at top dead center on compression stroke when you replace synchro because then you know it is timed right, then install synchro using tool,keeps tab and vane centered, at 15 degrees from center line of synchro,As long as you are at top dead center can install synchro at any position does not effect timing like adjusting distributor position is for wiring harness.
@@phinphan7358 great response! Most of the time the tool will have an arrow on it that they want you to have facing the 10mm bolt. As long as it's top dead center and that tab is in between the groove you'll be good to go
How do you know where tdc is? I’m confused
mine won't fucking go back in
does this work on the 3.8 mustang too?