Smyth Busters: Are Bronze Brushes BAD for the Barrel?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Today's bit of Internet wisdom, what the mythical "they" are saying on the forums, social media, and even in comments to Brownells videos, is that a BRONZE bore brush will damage your gun's STEEL barrel. Sounds like a topic tailor-made for the Smyth Busters, doesn't it? Caleb thinks this idea came from somebody cleaning their barrel with a bronze brush, then inspecting it and discovering factory defects in the bore. Steve theorizes another cause of damaged rifling: shoving a bronze brush down a .22 rimfire bore using a 3-section, steel M16 cleaning rod.
There's no way a soft metal like bronze can damage a modern steel barrel. Now, the steel on old pre-1900s barrels MIGHT be soft enough that you could wear it out with excessive cleaning, especially if there's a lot of burnt powder in the bore. The powder residue could act as enough of an abrasive to attack the shallow rifling. But even then, you won't tear chunks of metal off the bore! Also be cautious of a bronze brush with a steel wire core. If that core scrapes the muzzle crown, it can cause damage. For extra safety, stick with brass-core brushes.
Uncle Steve's Advice: Don't clean your .22 rimfires any more than you absolutely have to. What would happen if you put a bronze brush on one end of a cleaning rod, chuck the other end in an electric drill, and really go at a dry bore? Cousin Caleb tells us about it.
So that myth is BUSTED. Go ahead and clean that bore with a bronze brush. When the rifling wears that brush down to a nub, get a new one. If you want to be extra careful, use a good-quality bore solvent and a NYLON bore brush. Even better, use a BORE GUIDE to protect that rifling. If you're using a steel cleaning rod, be careful to keep it from scraping the rifling.
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Let's hear it, what are the barrel rumors y'all have heard in the gun shop/gun range?
You don't need to clean your ar15s barrel after shooting 22lr all you need to do is fire a round of 223.
The famous myth of the "AK never needs to be cleaned". As a matter of fact, someone even told me once that the AK barrels were "cleaning themselves automatically".
That a Mosin isn't zeroed from factory with a bayonet. When I tell them that they were zeroed like that, they usually don't believe me.
rumor actually related to this video- “never change directions with your brush inside the barrel” or its sister rumor “never pull the brush back through the crown”. Combine those two rumors and you end up with the method of pushing the brush through, unscrewing the brush / jag, then gingerly pulling the rod back. (repeat for each stroke until you die of old age)
I'm 36 now, but when I was maybe 6, my dad took his single shot 22 to the lgs down the road because it had became inaccurate. They told him to heat the barrel red hot and it'll melt the lead out....
I guess if a bronze brush wears out a barrel, then a bullet traveling down the barrel under heat and pressure should have ruined the barrel after the first shot
The issue here isn't a bullet. The issue is focusing on the bronze brush. Sure, the bullet can do damage & probably has but the possibility that a bronze brush might ADD additional issues to the already possibly damaged barrel is not helpful. Just because you can use it, doesn't mean you should.
@@wonderblast953 stop being lame. Its a fucking gun. Treat it like it
@@wonderblast953 Look up, it's a 747.
@@wonderblast953 🤣 thanks for the laugh friend ✌️
@@wonderblast953 Lol..This isn't worth responding to.
Absolutely agree, one of my hobbies is clock making and clock repair; clocks for the most part have brass plates without jeweled pivots, the train of gears is steel and when wear occurs it is a wallowing out of the pivot. Bushings (bronze or brass) can be added to close up the egged out pivot holes. Occasionally, the steel pivot will need to be burnished to put a polish to the steel, but wear out the steel never. And that is in old (150 year) clocks that have been run 24/7 for a century.
True. Bronze is softer
@@Smith944 More corrosion resistant too.
Horology can provide some important clues here. Clocks and watches don't have steel "gears". Most have trains of brass wheels paired with hardened steel pinions. Wear becomes apparent on the steel pinion leaves or lantern trunnions long before it shows up on the half-hard brass teeth that mesh with them. That's a well-known fact. Same with glass-hard steel pallets. Escapement pallets show wear long before the brass scape wheel teeth that act against them. And if you haven't seen worn steel pivots, then you either haven't examined many or you don't know how to calculate what the original diameters/clearances should have been in order to measure the wear. Pivot holes "egg" for two reasons: side pressures and contamination of the liquid lubricant. It's not because of the inherent softness of brass or bronze. If you re-bushed the train using steel, the holes would wear FASTER. Jewels serve as hole bearings because they offer superior smoothness and wear resistance--and not just because of their hardness on the Mohs scale. When soft metals go head-to-head with hard metals and a RUBBING action is involved, the softer metal tends to win. That's why clock and watchmakers use copper, brass, bronze and zinc laps to polish hardened steel. Zinc plates are used to polish diamonds. Conceiving of the problem of brushes in gun bores as a simple battle of steel (hard) vs. bronze (soft) leaves out key elements. It's actually steel vs bronze in an environment filled with harsh chemicals, carbon, ash, metal oxides and common dirt. If any of the latter three components proves to be harder than relatively soft modern barrel steel (about 30C Rockwell), then that component will embed in the bronze bristles and wear away the steel. So, your clock experience should tell you that the "Smyth Busters" haven't properly conceived of the problem on this one.
@@PLdemorygray soft metals do not wear slower than steel. Why do you think engine bearings wear out faster than the crankshaft? I'd like to hear you explain the science behind that theory.
@@actionjksn The video repeated the "common sense" misconception that bronze cannot damage steel, because a soft material cannot scratch a harder one. While it's true that soft metals can't, by themselves, scratch harder metals, that's not the entirety of the barrel/brush equation. When you add dirt, carbon and solvents, the situation changes. The exact same thing takes place in crankshaft failures, even though it's a red herring comparison because crankshafts don't normally involve metals in direct working contact. Cranks are designed to work with a .0005 in film of oil between the bearings and journals. When you introduce dirt, excess pressure or excess heat, the situation changes. When an engine experiences "bearing failure" it's almost never a simple situation where the bearings have "worn out" and left the crank journals untouched. The adjustment for wear in this system is built into the bearing side of the equation, but that doesn't mean that the bearing material is what actually wears away fastest. It's often the crank journals that get measurably smaller, or go out of round, or get scored. Journal wear allows the crank to start beating the hell out of the bearing rather than wearing it away. And to be clear, the journals wear because they've been rubbing against a softer metal with dirt and grit embedded in it. The same thing applies to bronze brushes in bores. They're quite capable of damaging a steel barrel that's at 38RC. Will you wear a barrel out by passing a brush through it? No. But the idea that a bronze brush can't hurt a steel bore because bronze is softer than steel is pure hogwash.
Thank you Caleb for a good laugh at your delivery of "doo doo quality barrel". 😂
I don't know why it made me laugh as hard as it did. I guess I'm just a big kid cause I was cracking up at Caleb then again with above comment 🤣
Come on people. If a bronze ANYTHING even scratches a hardened steel surface, that hard steel surface isn't a hard steel surface. You got way bigger problems than a bronze/brass bore brush. The force/friction of that bullet riding on the rifling has to be 1000x greater than the brush. Reminds me of a friend who drank 8 shots of Wild Turkey with a twist of lime, the next morning he was sick as hell and said "man...I think I got a hold of a bad lime..." lol Oh no, it wasn't the 8 shots of 100 proof whiskey. It was that damn lime...
Makes perfect sense to me. Bronze is tough on fouling but totally innocuous on steel.Can't listen to all these misguided people on the internet. Rather hear it from a couple of experienced gunsmiths to be sure. Thanks for the informative video gentlemen.
I don’t use bronze brushes, I use steel ones, then I coat them with 80 grit grinding compound and impregnate that with industrial diamonds. Finally I Chuck the steel multi section rod in a drill and run it full blast for at least 20 minutes. After that, you should see the shine that bore has. My .22s now chamber .50 caliber bullets as well…win, win. 😂😂😂
I was just wondering about this the other day, because Ive heard this rumor too! However...It didnt make sense. How does a brush ruin a barrel meant to withstand pressure and bullets?! Thanks for answering all these age old questions!
The bass/bronze core brush will not harm a hardened steel barrel designed to withstand chamber pressure of 50,000 pounds per square inch. How many marine corps rifle barrels have worn out because of over improper cleaning. You waste my time…
People who have never worked in manufacturing or a machine shop don't realize how laughable this is. More worried about a hand brush than 50,000 PSI explosion going through it.
Why would brass or bronze that is soo much softer then the barrel metal is bullshit!!!!! Think about it???🤔🤔🤔
Thanks
That technical term "doodoo quality" !!! 🤣
I’m here to read the near-snowflake screaming about how a bronze brush will wear out a steel tube that is nearly as hard as diamonds in comparison! 😱
40+ years of the Dept. of Education...smh...
A video on bore guides would be great !
Agreed. I prefer ProShot products myself.
Possum Hollow makes great ones specific for different rifle receiver dimensions.
We hired a guide in Louisiana and he was very boring. A video on him would also be boring.
I've used Otis type Ripcord Nomex rods in my handguns for 4+ years, no issues, no flaws. Simple CLPs like Slip 2000 EWL or Clenzoil work fine. ✅️
It would seem the reasoning for nylon brushes is for use with de coppering agents so it's not dissolving the bronze brush.
A bronse soft brush hurting a barrel but not a HOT LEAD BULLET AT 2K FT per second ....
You should not use a bronze brush when you're using a copper solvent and brush to remove copper deposits. The bronze brush will give a false positive on the patch. Plus, the copper solvent eats the bronze brush.
Nope. Won't hurt the barrel. That's why we use brass/bronze hammers to tap on metal parts. The hammer takes the dings and dents rather than damaging the iron or steel parts. Myth busted.
Oh yeah... A bronze brush is gonna wreck a steel barrel --- Kinda like you're gonna scratch the diamond in your girlfriend's wedding ring by wiping it down with a paper towel. Anyone who swallows this myth didn't pay attention when the concept of material hardness was covered in school - Softer materials are scratched by harder materials, not the other way around. Compared to even the softest steel, a bronze brush is like a clean T-shirt compared to a plate glass window.
If a bronze brush wears barrels out them what does a copper washed steel jacketed bullet do???
The first law of machining is the cutting tool must be harder than the material being machined!!
Stop making sense...!
ok for cleaning barrels not butts
You can destroy the rifling in a modern barrel, though not necessarily with a bronze bore brush. I posted a comment last year on another popular channel about a customer I once had who managed to eliminate the rifling in his brand new stainless steel heavy match AR barrel by means of vigorous and frequent scrubbing with a special solvent he acquired in Canada. The rifle manufacturer ended up replacing the barrel for free on the condition he stop using the solvent and stop cleaning the bore after every single shot. Lord, did I get a lot of comments on that post.
Think i remember this.. On MAC?
@@michaelcabada2933 You have a good memory.
What? No way. I even clean my barrels after dry-fire practice, or if I open my safe. Also before and after Thanksgiving dinner.
@@Paladin1873 I watched that episode on MAC too. That guy must have OCD to wear out a barrel 🤣
@@mikewithers299 He was an interesting chap.
I just throw them in the dishwasher. On POT SCRUBBING. I'm pretty sure that's what the setting is for...
The real issue here is ignorance. 😂
Bronze brushes have been used for quite sometime. If there was an issue, manufacturer's wouldn't sell them.
Not that I can think of right now in terms of smithing, but there are plenty of products on the markets that aren't helpful to our everyday health yet they still profit. So you could make the same argument, "if there was an issue, manufacturers wouldn't sell them" yet they do & they still play havoc on our health. Apply that logic to smithing & perhaps you can find maybe 1 or 2 products that isn't/aren't very helpful yet is still available for sale? Just a thought
@@wonderblast953 Guns and ammo, are not good for my....................wallet.
@@wonderblast953 I can think of 1 for smithing. The upper receiver clam shell vice block. It is used to hold your upper in place inside a vice so you can install a barrel nut or muzzle device. It's terrible for the receiver because it only holds the receiver, thus putting all the torque on to the indexing pin and the thin aluminum where the pin sits. Which ends in breaking either the upper receiver or the indexing pin on the barrel.
What you're supposed to use is a reaction rod. It's a long rod that is squared off on one end so it can be clamped into a vice. The other end locks into the barrel's star chamber. It also has a "sail" that locks into the channel the charging handle rides in. This locks both the receiver and barrel together and transfers all torque into the vice.
@@wonderblast953 Big pharma........
Manufacturers will sell anything that people will buy
I've seen & heard a few, video content creators going on rants regarding this topic. Glad for Brownell's crew to create the proper response 👍 My response was mostly 🙄 🤭 🥴 😴
Steve, if you need to remove lead from a barrel, just use Hornady One Shot on a patch. No brushing or scrubbing needed. It reduces the leading to a powder and pushes/pulls it right out. Place a paper towel on your bench first, to catch the lead dust.
You're welcome!
That’s what I Use One Shot 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
brass or bronze brushes just fine. failing to clean your weapon can do more damage than not cleaning it. USMC platoon armor Vietnam
I actually took a brass brush, and a power drill, and brass coated the inside of my barrel. I actually did it long enough to coat the inside of the barrel with brass. It's actually a common technique to get brass colored metal, without it being brass. I've done work as a medieval armor and weapons smith, and so I know for a fact. That a properly tempered steel piece will never degrade, and the brass would rather give off it's material and Add it to the barrel rather than take away material.
Uh why...
As a cheat I’ve stuck the cleaning rod in the chuck of a drill. I run a slow speed & have found this reduces the cleaning times. I’ve always felt dumb about this but appreciate you guys touching this topic. I don’t see any negative results on the ER Shaw 10/22 barrel I got from you guys either. Thanks again!
Only bad thing about the bronze/brass brush is if you are cleaning with a copper solvent you will NEVER get a clean patch! 😅 It will keep showing off as blue not from the barrel but from the brush and jag! Use nylon/aluminum jags and brushes and WOW suddenly the patches won't stay coming out blue as a "dirty bore". 😉
I think that this video was put out in response to your earlier video, that claimed a bronze brush could ruin a 22 barrel, because 22 barrel's were made with "soft" steel. Now your specifying turn of the 19th or 20th century ( awfully broad 100 year span). I've searched and searched for evidence that 22's were made with any different steel than other rifles of the same era, and I'm unable to find any. I have a Browning SA/22 that's nearly 100 years old and still shoots tight groups after countless thousands of rounds and thousands of cleanings. I would love information on 22 barrel steel vs other rifle barrel steel of the same era.
Here you fellas are...always spreading that wisdom! Hope y'all are having a great week!
I put a lot of cheap 22lr through my ar15/22 ran a brush through it and it shot better clean🤷♂️.....lots of fouling.....no damage to the rifling.....just rifling shaped lead chunks
We shoot thousands of .22 every year...the ammo is just inherently dirty...a clean gun will always run better...some folks will say the copper bullets aren't dirty, I'm not buying that...you just get rifling shaped copper chunks, just like the lead ones...
@@PetuniaIii-pd1ww no damage though.....
“Beware Doodoo quality barrels.”
- Sir Caleb Savant
that's going on a new coffee mug...
@@CalebSavant HAHAHHA YES! i’ll buy one
@@CalebSavant Do it. I dare you. LOL
This is got to be one of the stupidest things I've ever heard in my life! I even noticed one remark down in the comments that bronze is so much harder than copper. Yes and steel is so much harder than bronze it isn't even a contest. I have laughed barrels with JB boar paste. Which is far more aggressive on a barrel then bronze would be in 500,000 Strokes of cleaning. You've got to be joking with me, these people have no idea what they're talking about.
Does cleaning do anymore damage than accelerating a a price of metal 3000 fps+ 10,000-20,000 times.
Guess this one's never going away.
Hmm? How can a SOFT metal Junk a Harder steel barrel? I just want to Shoot! and I shoot Black Powder "A Lot!" just clean it!
Caleb’s hair looks like my uncle did in 1965
I've known gunsmiths who would use copper brushes like a drill bit and run a drill in the barrel. That a bit much??
Just understanding the hardness scale makes be believe it's all a myth.
Such a great series. Thank you gentlemen. Quick, to the point, no fluff.👍🇺🇲
The military issues metal brushes...that's good enough for me...when they issue them 🙃
Ceramic stones attached to my cordless power drill, pesky groves, nice and smooth now 😳 😎 ( “we’ll sell you more”, perfect ! )
Do it to a .22lr, load up some ratshot, and shoot Mo-Skeet!
grooves
I have a doo doo barrel 😞
If you're still not convinced, you should probably get rid of all your firearms because I don't think you're intelligent enough to own them.
I have a few things that just shipped out of your place yesterday. I didn't order a bronze brush though. I have many of those already.
My barrel is a 4150V QPQ cold hammer forged one. I would hope it is not "doo doo quality." LOL
This myth is so obviously busted that you'd have to be really ignorant about the difference in hardness between modern barrel steels and bronze to think otherwise. Not to mention, how many times do you actually clean a barrel in its lifetime? Hopefully far less than you send bullets through it, which would be much more abrasive.
Caleb, how much $ to literally buy that shirt off your back? Haha, Dixxon needs to do another run of that Big Iron flannel!
I've always used the OTIS cleaning kit with plastic coated steel cables with brass or bronze fittings with a bronze brush dry always running it breech to muzzle and the barrels and rifling is always super clean and shiny with zero damage that I have ever seen....
You bet! 👍 Otis is what I use for my lever actions and my .22 rifles.
Otis Ripcords are ✅️. I use them often; Glock gen 4, gen 5. Walther PDP Compact 9mm. I avoid reloaded or lead style bullets. Newer non lead training loads.
Isn't this what Bore-Snakes are for? So you don't have to jam a cleaning rod down a barrel
I only use a bore snake a couple times on my 10/22 then put it back in the vault. Don't over clean your 10/ 22 .
I wish you guys were still building and selling M16A1's because I would buy one.
Bronze soft. Steel hard. Some people operate with soft spongy brains.
I think one good idea for a video which isn't necessarily a myth, but a comparison or different types of brushes, patches, felt pellets which I recently started using and so far I'm impressed, but any of these would be a good cover topic.
Don't worry guys, I'm gonna come out with an aerogel bore brush.
It won't even damage the fouling!
Lol
I still can't get my father in-law to ever clean his firearms. He claims even a nylon brush will damage the barrel.
While that may be true guys, I find that my diamond-impregnated end mill set from Harbor Freight is even quicker than the stiffest of bronze brushes at removing the lead, carbon, and even copper fouling from the bores on ALL of my guns. Thanks for the clarification though.
And right now 99.99% of the bench rest shooters just felt a cold chill in their bones. The School of the black rifle guy just fell to his knees and screamed no as tears fell from his eyes . Lol. Never ever believed a bronze brush could harm a modern barrel steel. Even hard chrome bores. And if flakes of hard chrome do come out it's because the plating was flawed, mainly due to cleaning process before plating or a flaw in the barrel material.. If a screaming projectile with massive pressure and cut your flesh heat don't hurt the chrome or bare barrel steel then a bronze brush ain't going to either.
MY Mossberg Patriot has a bore that looks like Swiss Cheese straight from the factory.
Ah yes; gun barrels. Notoriously fragile, they are….
How about boresnakes, I use hoppies brand, just asking!
Sounds like an excuse for "won't hit the X spot !".
As to bore guides, in an AR15, you've got one built in. Once you've broken down the BCG for cleaning it, simply insert the bolt carrier (minus the bolt and such) into the breach. Bingo! Instant bore guide! It's so simple it's stupid.😉
Holy shit! 🤦🏼♂️ You’re right! Good one.
How about a stainless bore brush ?
No bad idea!
I prefer nylon, because I can tell if there's still copper in the bore. With bronze brushes, a copper solvent just eats them away.
I inherited a 1924 colt police positive .38 from my grandfather.. it needed to be cleaned up a bit and I was told to use a brass brush and some wd 40 to clean it.. long story short, my Colt is scratched all to hell now and I'm really sick about it... I wish I hadn't touched it and just let it be.. I have no idea how to fix it 😢
When I was in basic, my drill sergeant told us how when he was in the infantry they would clean the crap out of their weapons every day, but they had to stop cleaning them so hard because it turns out they were damaging the barrels, so I was under the impression that it was true.
Granted, this is the army. Of there's anyone that's really good at breaking things that shouldn't be broken, it's definitely us LMAO
Most likely from the steel cleaning rods.
I second the steel cleaning rods being the cause.
Not all types of shooting demand the same level of accuracy. All of my competition guns have hand lapped barrels. We are very careful to use the correct bore guides. These days there are miracle cleaners like Patchout and Tactical Advantage that require almost no brushing. Brownell’s sells both products. Most of my competition shooting friends have gone to the minimum cleaning regimen. I have a borescope and will sometimes have to touch the area just ahead of the chamber with an Issoso Nylon brush. Insert just ahead of chamber and just enough to touch the carbon build up. The brush is rotated but not stroked with Tactical Advantage. In the old days a 6PPC had to be recrowned half way through the barrel’s life.
Stainless button rifled barrels may have a shorter life than cut rifled barrels. I have both the Kreiger Cut Rifle and Broughton button rifled barrels.
Now a disclaimer, my old Mosin Nagants require pretty aggressive barrel cleaning. Brass brushes and some aggressive copper removers… never let an aggressive cleaner sit on a non-stainless barrel any length of time. I have done tests on takeoff barrels and have watched them etch the steel in short order. This not an old wife’s tale. I believe I used Sweets 7.62 but it could of been Butches bore shine.
In the Competition Rimfire world we are experimenting with the Lead Out product. I do not work for Sharpshooters. We just want to take care of a screamer barrel. We used to use Kroil and MP-7. Finding the right barrel and ammo combination is an expensive and time consuming endeavor. More and more shooters are taking their guns to test centers. Lapua has two and Dan Kilo has one for Eley ammo. There maybe others.
A bronze brush in a hand lapped barrel is something I would do sparingly if at all. There are gunsmiths that microlap the throat area of their custom guns. Bill Calfee calls that part of his secret process.
That sounds very interesting to me. None of my weapons have this level of precision - they are mostly service weapons from different times between 1884 and 1990. But also sporting weapons in .22 caliber or historical lever-action rifles and muzzleloaders. In addition to nitro powder, I also use black powder, since historical weapons are not allowed to be loaded with nitro powder. I clean the barrels with black powder with soapy water and then wipe them dry and oil them - everything with fleece patches.
Typical service weapons such as my Sweden Mauser m96 in caliber 6.5x55 but also my Swiss infantry rifle model 1896/11 in caliber 7.5x55 I only clean with a cleaning cord. Both guns are almost 120 years old and I don't know how they were cared for before me and how much was shot with them, but they are in good condition. Both weapons have roughly the same groupings: at 50 m around 1.5 cm, at 300 m under 10 cm and at 1000 m you still hit a target for their original use.
I clean the guns the same day I use them, whether it's just one shot or forty shots. To do this, I use one of these modern cleaning cords with an integrated bronze brush and pull it dry four to five times through the barrel in the direction of the shot. After the first wipe, no powder residue can be seen with the naked eye and it shines like a mirror. When I had to clean my G3 assault rifle with the chain and nylon brush used in the military around forty years ago during my service, cleaning the barrel took forever compared to today. It was particularly bad to remove the melted plastic residue from the blanks.
Very rarely, and usually only when I want to shoot an old gun for the first time and the barrel is really dirty and uncleaned, which is unfortunately very often the case with used guns, do I also use a chemical cleaner. I then very gently wipe down the barrel with fleece pads soaked in soapy water to remove any chemical residue before preserving it with a light coat of oil. As I said, these are not bench runs, but normal runs that are also suitable for sporting competitions.
Lithgow's manual on the LA101 states to use an oiled nylon brush. I think I remember reading that Lithgow says not to use a bronze brush but could not find it. As bronze is considerably softer than steel, I cannot understand how a bronze brush could damage a steel barrel. If the barrel is chrome lined, that it even tougher than steel and definitely would not be harmed by a bronze brush.
"All these crying scrubs out here with DooDoo quality barrels" - Caleb
ALSO, clean from the chamber end whenever possible.
TRUE STORY: In 1975, at Marine Corps OCS, on the night prior to the battalion CO's inspection, my platoon's sergeant instructor came into the squad bay with an electric drill. He proceeded to chuck up a cleaning rod with bore brush then punch the barrel of each of our M14s.
You two gentleman set the standard for honest reviews!!!!
During WW1, the Russian soldiers were used to scrubbing their barrels clean because of black powder. When Issued the Mosins with Smokeless powder, they continued their scrubbing rituals and damaged the barrels. Of course, the steel cleaning rods may have had something to do with it.
Actually, the barrels were damaged from the corrosive nature of the primer compound they used in the cartridges. In fact, part of the cleaning kit that came with the rifles was a metal bottle of alkali salts to neutralize the acidity.
@@6Sally5 Good information ! Thank you
Do a video on bullet setback in handguns due to repeatedly chambering a round.
There are multiple videos out there on that
When I was much younger, I once got my 22 so fouled up with lead that it sounded like I was shooting through a suppressor. There was so much lead built up, it was impossible to get a cleaning brush pushed through by hand. So, we stuck the rifle in a gun vice, chucked up a bronze brush in an electric drill, and bored it out. Worked like a charm!
People would take a standard cleaning brush and wrap some pieces of 100% copper Chore Boy scrubber to help remove the lead.
He paused before he said," maybe i drink too much...... uh coffee," we'll say. Straight from the mountains of Columbia!
We are extremist in our delusional minds 😁👍😂.
Run your cleaning rod from the rear of the barrel if you can to avoid doing any possible damage to the crown.
What do you think about a bore cleaning snake? I put a little solvent before the brush on one. Then a little oil at the end.
unrelated, I know that leaning a rifle on the barrel doesn't hurt it but I still cant bring myself to do it
Here's the answer for that one! th-cam.com/video/HOnZkutQyEc/w-d-xo.html
What about a .223 chamber brush with steel bristles? Will that damage chrome plated or polished chambers?
That's a good one
Next video: Should we use bore guides?
Sales Department has entered the chat.
Would love a video on the ol’ “.357 magnum will crack the forcing cone of a K frame” myth/ legend. I’ve asked around and it’s seems like a 50/50 consensus. If there’s already a video I’d love to be directed to it 😁
I'd love to see some out-takes from Smyth Busters
*snicker* - Caleb said "poo poo".
Do a smyth buster on if it's bad to shoot pistols straight out of the box without taking them apart and cleaning them first.
It is not a pistol but the manual for my Winchester SX-4 states that it comes from the factory with a coating of a product that is a rust inhibitor and not an lubricate. The manual states one needs to apply a lubricate before using the firearm. I have purchase new handguns that seemed too wet and others that appeared too dry. One had a barrel so dirty that I could not tell if the riffling look good until I cleaned it.
Hi there, since the early 70's it was my job to clean my dad's FN FAL/R1 rifle when he was permanent force in the South African D F. As a kid i did this very often and he had stressed to be careful of the flexing of the steel cleaning rod. At no point, after many years, was there damage to the bore, brass brushes with a brass core, brass jags with cloth patches, zero. To this day i use both a plastic covered cable pull through and the original military issue steel rods that screw together. I have recently bought a bore snake for the first time, just for the sake of something new, happy with all and all my Milsurp rifles are 30 cal. so they work well for all. Thanks once again.
Most likely, cleaning rod without a bore guide, edges of rod sections damaging bore. Dropping bronze brush and getting sand, grit, whatever in the bristles of the brush. If the brush falls in dirt, throw the damn thing out, cheaper than a new barrel.
There are brushless solvents available. Of course someone will say they damage the bore. It gets tiring sometimes.
Well, im not done with the video yet but it leads me to ask: brass brush vs nylon brush?
I used a brass brush because it came with my kit. But i got tired of the brass breaking off and poking at my skin and getting stuck. They als eventually folded up in on itself making me wonder if its cleaning has been hindered. Thus, i got a nylon one mostly cuz it wouldnt break off.
What are the differences and are there any loss of cleaning when using a nylon vs brass cleaning brush?
If a bronze brush cannot damage a bore, why do virtually all top barrel makers who actually lap their barrels tell you to never use a bronze brush in them! A lapped bbl looks like a mirror. On your barrel, NOT mine, scrub it with a bronze brush after using as bore camera both before an after and tell me what you see!
Who you gonna believe. Good smiths that work on normal guns or the very pinnacle of precision barrel makers who are the top in their field?
I make very high end highly collected Fighting Knives. the steel is 62-63 hrc which is orders of magnitude harder than barrel steel. I have tested bronze brushes in it and it does mute the mirror finish. it does have an effect. Mix this with hard carbon, and yeah, it can damage a finely finished barrel.
KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the Craft
“We’ll sell you more.” 😂😂😂 love your videos guys! Keep ‘em coming! 👍
Looks like mild steel’s hardness on the Brinell scale is around 120, and bronze is around 65
SIMPLE FRICTION PHYSICS. Metal on metal ,is going to wear something out quicker. Use good old Hoppes#9 and a patch. A little fouling is actually good. Should it be a concern, Later, down the road, of many rounds.... Then use a tiny dab , of JB COMPOUND on a patch . Don't get carried away.
Correct
Wait... you can clean a barrel?!? I always just toss em out and get a new one 😬
🤣🤣🤣
All I do is keep my cleaning rods clean and my cleaning attachments clean with a little moonshine.
Never heard of anyone wearing hardened gun steel (especially CHF and treated) barrels with bronze brushes.
Have heard about plastic brushes being inefficient and somewhat ineffective.
Easy enough to find out for yourself.
Use a plastic brush awhile, and see.
Considering the frequency most gun owners clean guns, on average, cleaning wear is probably a myth more about selling supplies than minimizing wear.
JMO...