A few questions keep popping up so I thought I would make a pinned post. We will continue producing maintenance tip videos like this one as well as other video content. I'm sharing my experience servicing 20k plus AR's and tens of thousands of other types of firearms. As I said in the video, if you disagree with these tech tips that's ok. I make these videos to help those looking for information, not those who have nothing to learn. Question 1 - Who makes your kit? Answer 1 - It's something I pieced together. The case is made by Voodoo Tactical. It may not be made any longer. I'll make a separate video about the entire kit and include the names of the items in the kit. Question 2 - Who makes the sectioned rod with brass connections? Answer 2 - It's from a Swiss K31 Cleaning Kit. Question/Statement 3 - You don't use bronze or stainless brushes but use a bore snake with a built in metal brush? Isn't that hypocritical? Answer 3 - I rarely use bore snakes because of the built in brush. Others may use them often, thus the reason for the video. The items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop. Question/Statement 4 - You tell us to worry about the use of bore snakes but have sectioned rods in your kit. They cause damage too. Answer 4 - I never said segmented rods were 100% safe. Segmented rods have risk too, and Ill do a follow up video about them. I use them a very specific way to limit damage. The items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop. Question 5 - Will you do a video about the entire contents of your portable cleaning kit? Answer 5 - Yes we will do that. That being said, the items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop. Question/Statement 6 - Do you need to worry about the angle if you have a muzzle device? Won't that prevent you from pulling at an angle? Answer 6 - You can still put an angle with open ended flash suppressors. Brakes will force you to pull more inline with the bore. Question/Statement 7 - You said not to use scraping tools yet you have plastic scrapers. Answer 7 - I don't use those plastic tools to scrape at the bolt tail or other critical surfaces. It's mainly to clear or pry out things like mud, snow, and other items that find their way into the firearm. That being said, the items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop. Question 8 - If a bore snake breaks and gets stuck, why not just drive it out with a rod? Answer 8 - A bore snake gets tighter in the bore when it's pushed and often becomes more difficult to remove. Some people use special fittings with compressed air or grease guns with success. I have seen the results people trying blanks or live ammo to clear a stuck bore snake. It will usually blow up the gun or bulge the barrel. I wouldn't try that. I have my own methods to remove broken bore snakes that grab it with prongs so it can be pulled out. Question 9 - Why no bronze brushes? Answer 9 - When you use barrel cleaners meant to remove copper fouling you generally clean until your patches no longer have blue or green residue (copper being removed). Bronze brushes will leave bronze in the bore and your patches may lead you to believe there is still fouling to be removed. Bore cleaners can degrade bronze brushes as well. ***I'll update this pinned post as necessary.***
Thanks Chad. It's amazing the sorts of inferences people take away from you merely showing your field kit, almost like they don't know how anything works and they assume you don't either. What a pain to have to not only instruct people on how the AR works, but also on general mechanical and tool-use principles. Many folks seem to think selves born mechanics, but are hamfisted kludges in reality.
@@seanoneil277 thank you my friend. I just ignore the naysayers and move on. The good to bad ratio for our content is quite well and I'm thankful. For every person that acts like a wild animal, 50 people are kind and gracious.
I order 2 and take a razor cut a line in and remove the bronze brush on one and keep the other one as is for hard cleaning but use the brushless one for just after range trip or random down time
@George you have to order direct through communist Nations, I don't like to give communism money but I will pay for that and a AK of course. About the only good thing that's ever been produced by communism is an AKM
I've been a rifleman in the military for 10 years. I've always carried and used the same 2 boresnakes during my time in. I always clean the upper receiver, followed by the star chamber then run a dry boresnake 3 times. ( I always run the boresnake after cleaning the receiver and chamber, if you do it first you will just drop carbon back into your already clean barrel). I've personally never had a problem with them. I'm also constantly lending it to other guys while cleaning weapons and I have never seen particular problems. From what I have seen it tends to be the most affective way to clean an AR barrel. With that being said I did see a guy run a 7.62 snake through a 5.56 rifle and that was a disaster. Attention to detail
How to clean a bore snake: Hot water with a couple of drops of dawn soap in a mason jar, shake vigorously! Rinse hot water only, shake vigorously. Air dry.
I use a Nalgene wide mouth bottle. That little weight banging the glass jar as I shake vigorously made me think high strength plastic might be a better idea. Loop over a plastic coat hanger to dry.
The crown is the last thing that touches the projectile leaving the barrel, making it an essential part of the accuracy equation. Chad even mentions the potential for embedded material lapping the metal away. Considering that barrel tolerances are measured in thousandths of an inch (.001 inch) and less (.0001 inch) that's not much material to remove before there's potential accuracy degradation. For sure not eggshells, but not invincible either and for sure not cheap to fix or replace.
I had a customer bring in a bolt action rifle with a broken bore snake in the bore. He said he tried pushing it back out with a rod and jammed the aluminum rod and then stripped the threads leaving the snake and a section of rod in the bore. I soaked both ends with WD-40, let it sit about an hour and used air pressure. I hose clamped (I used 3 clamps) a piece of high pressure rubber hose to the muzzle end with a hose barb with a quick disconnect and gradually increased pressure, it took almost 85psi but luckily it popped out. I hope I never have to do that again.
Grease guns (NOT the M-3 type) with a suitable adapter at the muzzle will make a smaller "POP" when the obstruction departs. Works well with faulty cartridges stuck in the chamber. Not so much if it is a stuck fired case; the primer just pops out.
I think it would take 10's of thousands of pull through's to damage the crown or chamber. They are extremely hard! I don't think any normal shooter needs to worry about it. I could be wrong, I have been before, but I don't think a weekend shooter or hunter has to worry about it. Don't over think it. Just be careful and keep it clean.
I agree. Even if the bore snake is carbon filled how is that worse then a copper jacketed projectile going through it at 3000 ft/sec. Dont see a dirty bore snake damaging a barrel or crown
Cleaning gear has evolved tremendously since the olé M16-A1 days. Cleaned my first one in Feb.1977 with the buttstock cleaning kit on Paris Island. Thanks for the great videos,,,,,,, Semper Fi,,,
@@osdreadlord3205 Yeah, they probably still have a billion of them warehoused somewhere. Some of the Otis kits are just the A2 kit with some extra stuff inside.
Dude, that lil’ kit you put together is exactly what I’m trying to put together. Cleaning kits for individual firarms can be soooo frustrating. So many sizes of rod ends and brushes and patch heads. Very Nice and alittle old school.
I always use mine sparingly, dry. I run patches after that to clear any debris out of the barrel. I was sure you were going to talk about a potential barrel obstruction that could go unnoticed due to a bore snake falling apart. I worry about that and always check the bore to ensure it is 100% clear. Good idea about the replacement policy, I was looking at mine the other day and thinking I had better replace it soon.
I always considered the bore snake something that is really compact for when you don't have the space to carry a rod with you. I wouldn't consider using the bore snake if I have cleaning rods handy. The cleaning rods just seem like a much better tool for cleaning the barrel. I think the mops do a great job and seem very safe. I use a patch first so that I don't get the mop so filthy as quick.
@@lobsterbark I don't know I don't own a bore snake, I use the rods that screw together but that is what I always assumed they were designed for, which is portability or rifles where you can't get a rod into the breach. My AR-15 actually has a stock that has a storage compartment where I could put a bore snake inside.
I always inspect my cleaning tools before I use them, haven't had an issue with bore snakes up to this point, but I also don't go crazy with them either. Smooth even pressure applied while pulling, and always try to pull them as straight as possible out of the barrel is key to eliminating the extra pulling pressures that may cause bad things to happen to the barrel and snake. Additionally, one must be aware of the potentials for snagging the snake on the chamber end of the barrel... you have to make sure that you route the snake in a way that snagging it is neigh to impossible.
The risk of damaging the crown by pulling out a snake at an angle seems to only apply if there is no muzzle device fitted. I avoid pulling the snake through at an angle since it seems more likely to damage the snake.
Lots of good advice here. I only use a bore snake occasionally and discard them when I notice significant signs of wear [usually a lot more than 100 uses]. The straight-pull technique is old as the hills...it was SOP since corrosive ammo was issued for military guns and daily cleaning was mandatory. Note that bore snakes can be washed with soapy water...this will remove most or all of the wear-creating carbon that sticks to them.
Thanks for pointing out how to clean the bore snake!! Not sure how the author would go to such pains to highlight how the carbon could be so damaging yet assume the audience knows how to clean the tool !
This is the channel where you learn any and everything I don’t watch any other channels talk about ball carrier groups because I know that they can’t test it in depth and diagnose it like this man can. This is completely free to watch even .
Usually a worn out boresnake that fails, it’s only the brush that will hang up in a bore and it’s very easy to remove. Anyone running AR has to carry a rod anyway to knock out stuck brass
I just started using these and they are great. Never even thought of it breaking off in the barrel, so thanks for that warning. I really appreciate the video about bolt carrier groups as well. I didn't know you had to break the whole thing down and keep those rings lubricated.
You can get oil into the rings through the weep holes on the side of the carrier. Keeps from breaking it down in the field to loose a firing pin retaining pin lol.
I like to guide the bore snake so that when the larger part with the brush enters the chamber it's as parallel to the chamber as I can get it and then when it's started , pull it like you showed. I also wash them in a warm detergent every now and again, rinse well and let air dry. ( keep it clean .)
The big reason you don't want to brush or use harsh solvents on your bore is to avoid degrading carbon/copper fouling equilibrium in your bore. There's a certain point at which you establish that equilibrium, where basically no more copper or carbon are building up in the rifling of your bore, and the bullet is pushing the excess out. It's at this point where your rifle will group most consistent, and you don't want to damage that. Just run a patch with CLP down it, and call it good.
Unit armorer running a patch through your bore: yah see that there high speed that's carbon alright now try again Obviously a military specific problem, but it still gets drilled into a lot of shooters that any carbon = bad and they end up over cleaning the hell out of everything. Hard habit to break.
@Michael-uc2pn I had that exact same issue. Had to sit down and explain barrel break in to an armorer. He looked at me with a blank stare and said "uhh. Can you just go clean it again?"
If you're worried about it you can always just use a doubled over piece of heavy fishing line with loops tied on the ends to pull patches through. Works great really. Sometimes you might need a drinking straw or the like to avoid getting snagged on muzzle devices
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried string trimmer line and had problem preventing the old cotton shirt patch from pulling through the trimmer line when I tried melting the end of the line to create a bulge to hold the patch on. If the patch is sized big enough to create a little friction when passing through barrel then it will often pull out of the cotton rag patch. I run 10 to 20 patches through a barrel when cleaning so I don't want to take a lot of time security each patch. Do you tie a new new loop for each patch you run through and cut off the loop before you tie a new patch on?
@@richardburnett-_ I tried string trimmer for .177 air rifle as I don't have a fiberglass rod that small. The problem is I have not been able to keep the cotton rag (t-shirt) material from pulling off the trimmer line even after melting the line to create a bulge on the end. A smaller bulge may bull through. Some ends I created have broken off. What type of patches are you using and how are you keeping the patches on the line?
@@raykettel1837 A melted blob may not work without stout patches. A knot first, then melted a bit to ensure it doesn't unravel, would be better. I'd rather use weed trimmer than fishing line, but maybe I don't have enough stout fishing line handy. You can melt the other end a wee bit and sort of twist the melted plastic into a bit of a point to help push stout patches onto the line.
I've never used a bore snake, and I absolutely despise the cables. I was issued an Otis kit for my M4. I used it once and promptly acquired an old school cleaning kit. I still have that kit too.
I'd like some more info on what you keep in your optics cleaning kit. I have a lens pen and some basic spray and wipe cleaners, but I'm always interested to learn what others use.
Love bore snakes and I believe your 100% correct about pulling them straight out because of the possibility of lapping. Also like the idea about replacement intervals. The thing I wonder about when I see people cleaning their barrels with bore brushes or snakes is that I think they get over zealous with it and they brush the crap out of it and some don't pay attention to which direction they pull or push the brush through or worse, they go back and forth repeatedly. I was taught to just wet the bore down with solvent, let it sit for a few minutes (about the time it takes to smoke cigarette). Then push or pull a brush through 3x to 5x from the chamber towards the muzzle only unless weapon design prevents you from doing so in which case I'll opt for the bore snake. Then start pushing oily patches through till they come out clean. Sometimes I'm lazy and will rinse the bore with break parts cleaner blow air through to evaporate it then run a few oilly patches through til they come out clean followed by one dry patch. Been getting good results, my barrels are still accurate, and feel like I'm doing what's needed without over doing it. I've watched alot of people go at it, scrubbing their barrels like they were scrubbing a toilet bowl and thinking to myself, that's got to create unnecessary wear but I could be wrong.
You can go either way. You just have to be sure the brush comes all the way out first. So the bristles can filp the other way when pulling back through with a rod. I guess thats one advantage to the snake, you can keep going the same way throughout. Action to muzzle keeps the debris out of the action but it's not a must.
@@matthewbeaver5026 I think some claim pulling a brush back in from the muzzle end can damage the crown. That is why it is recommend to insert from the chamber end if at all possible when using a rod. A rod cannot be inserted from the chamber end in all long guns so a snake may be a better choice. A rod can be used from the muzzle end but with understanding that it could damage the crown. I think there are devices one may insert to protect the crown.
I think a lot of folks try to understand cleaning by doing "research" (whatever methods they prefer, internet forum searches or YT videos) and then have no ability to put into context just what their findings suggest. A soldier looking for field utility and reliability with his infantry rifle has different concerns than a benchrest shooter who measures his impact deviations in the smallest fractions. A person who shoots his rifle 1x/yr and 20-30 rounds on that 1x has no reason to obsessively clean his barrel and use a borescope to "make it shiny". A casual shooter has no need for benchrest shooter rifle cleaning strategies. The military have historically taught soldiers to clean too often, and as an outsider non-mil person I'd say it probably was to keep them busy while indirectly stressing the idea of a well-maintained rifle. But it's definitely possible to overdo the cleaning, and it's possible to stress about things which have no positive impact on your rifle or your own accuracy.
More damage is done using Aluminum Cleaning rods that are uncoated and no muzzle guide /crown protector. Steel cleaning rods that are dirty can also cut the Muzzle. You should also roll your Boresnakes up and put in a cloth bag tied closed and toss them in the washing machine every 3rd or 4th time they are used.
I’ve had my .22 boresnake since I got my first AR in 2008 and it’s still in great condition. I just used it last night in fact to clean it. I’ve had other boresnakes for about as long and never have had an issue with them either. With that said though, while I do like them and value them, I only use them to clean the barrels in between cleanings and keep them in my emergency kit. I come from a law enforcement background when it comes to shooting and maintaining my firearms ans d was taught that every time I shoot, no matter if it’s an entire range session with a gun or I just run a mag through it, it gets thoroughly cleaned afterwards. That includes solvents and a good bore brushing and then running patches through until they come out clean. Otherwise, especially with my carry guns, when in between cleanings when I’m simply wiping the gun and oiling it back up, I run a bore snake with a few drips of oil on the leading edge through the barrel to get any loose debris out. They’re handy tools for that and in case of minor emergencies in the field, but there’s no way you can get a bite aptly cleaned just using them.
Good video.. I use Boresnakes as well.. but usually before and after a shooting session with CLP only.. at the beginning, a couple pull throughs to make sure there's no obstruction and clean out dust.. and after shooting again to clean dust, minor fouling and just for me to know it's cleared and safe..
Using them dry can be problematic, too. I ran one dry once and had a heck of a time with it. I thought it was stuck in there for good. A little squirt of Ballistol and it slid out.
That is a very pristine looking cleaning kit! Sometimes they need to be used. Has anyone ever thought about just replacing them when they start to get frayed rather than letting them getting into a shape like that?
I was wondering this too, I’ve only pulled out from an angle maybe 7-9 times with a muzzle device (dead air flash hider) Installed. Good to know this info so I won’t do it again.
With brakes it's more difficult to cause damage because the front of the brake forces alignment. Some flash hiders can allow you to pull at an angle. Clean however you wish.
You still want to pull it straight just for the fact of reduced chance of breaking the bore snake in the barrel, can’t say I’ve never pulled it off for one reason or another but I do try to keep it straight
I had a horrible experience with a bore snake. Ended up send my rifle back to Savage to get it re-barreled after the crown was damaged by a gunsmith who tried removing it. It was my fault for getting it stuck. I will say, Savage was awesome. They didn't even charge me for the new barrel. All I paid was shipping both ways.
@@mikeanthony07 It was the correct size. It got balled up on the end as I was pulling it through the barrel. It was my fault for not paying attention to what I was doing.
Last measure on broken or object stuck in barrel is air pressure. I have filled both ends with oil, then seal the air hose nozzle end on barrel and apply air. It has worked for me. Be careful, it will come out forcefully.
I never use bore snakes anymore. Shotgun patches and hoppes. And Iosso nylon brushes for tough scrubbing. If THAT doesn't do it. I use JB bore cleaner, that stuff it great.
Very interesting. I have been most fortunate in that I have always pulled my bore snake through my rifle barrels straight out -- it was the way it was taught in the British Army, although no reason was given. Now I know! 😇
Until I saw this video it would have never occurred to me that someone would be dumb enough to not pull it through straight. That just doesn't make any sense to me
This is good info. I use bore snakes on my ARs and hunting rifles. Always have been cognizant to pull straight through. I don’t clean my rifles’ barrels after every shooting. I’ve seen some guys that over-clean and put a lot of wear on their guns. After sighting in, my hunting rifles don’t get cleaned for the remainder of the season unless they get extraordinarily dirty or wet. I clean them before they are placed into storage. My ARs are usually shot several times before the barrel gets cleaned (I shoot my ARs multiple times a week, usually 140 to 200 rounds in a session). Most of the time, I just break down my BCG, wipe, and re-lube while it’s still warm. My AR barrels don’t need that much attention. When I do clean them, I typically run a bore snake with hoppes applied to the brushes through the barrel twice. I’ve never had an issue.
Some one put a brass brush on a drill to the end of their f class rifle on "soft stainless" and all it did was polish it a little bit. He hit it at all angles supper agressive too.
@@____MC____ honestly, I’m less concerned with wear on the chamber or bore from over cleaning than I am with wear to bolt of an AR. I used to go to town cleaning the concave area of the bolt near the gas rings where carbon builds heavily. I used to scape at that with steel tools. That will run a bolt in a hurry if repeated often enough.
@@leifhoklin2681 ive done that too. Good to know. Ive even polished one to help keep the build up away before finding this guys videos on bcg's. Maybe if you had a plasic scraper it would be ok
I think many of us use a bore snake not as a replacement for a good cleaning kit, but as something to simply run sown the barrel once or twice before we case everything up at the range. The real cleaning happens later for me.
a lot of the newer bore snakes have a hand peace that you can use to help keep you steady while pulling them through. i just picked up a AR10 and got a new cleaning kit and the bore snake that came with it has a plastic disk that you hook the end of the snake on and you have finger grooves to help with leverage and keep it straight and when you finished with it you rap the snake around it and it all stores together. i love it so much lol. thanks for all of the great videos, i have been subscribed to you for a while and love how thorough you are.i realy feel bad about how hard youtube has made it for you but i will always support you as long as you make videos. thanks again
I've run bore snake type of barrel devices from various makers, of various calibers, with various chemicals for longer than care to remember. I've used them all hundreds if not thousands of times in some calibers but I also clean them regularly with hot water and mild dish detergents. I just replaced my well used set of Hoppes original Boresnakes with the Vipers and expect them to last hundreds of uses as well. I would say you're spot on about pulling them through nice and straight....that's probably where 99% of the wear can be avoided if you clean them regularly.
2:21 what? Pay a gunsmith? If one is inside you just: Push it out with a ram rod? Or shoot a blank? Or blow it out with a air compressor? I agree it's pain ofc. Btw I'm a fan of yours You do great, useful content.
I just started using bore snakes. Always used the three piece rod for years. The bore snake that i use seams to be hard to pull through even though it says 223 on it. I think that i like the rods better even though i have to unscrew the end off every time. Thanks for the info.
I like the idea of nylon or plastic bushes and cleaning tools. I have seen some top shooting channels like MarkandSam Afterwork basically saying that never cleaning your barrel is the best option, because of the lead/carbon/copper is already perfectly smooth using a brush destroys your barrel’s accuracy. I’ve still used copper brushes recently just for wanting to keep my gun clean for storage.
Many who compete with rifles may thoroughly clean their entire barrel at the end of each season. Other who maybe do not compete may recommend only thoroughly cleaning once one starts getting more fliers or the groupings get much worse. One still likely needs to remove the carbon ring that forms much more often. It may require leaving a patch soaked with bore cleaner advertised to remove carbon.
Copper can build up to cause dangerous pressure although it takes a ridiculous amount of rounds, Have you ever tried to clean a BBQ grill or oven with a plastic brush? It's not effective
Long range rifle competitors tend to be obsessive. There are some that subscribe to complete myths like “barrel break in procedures”. There are others who follow very anal retentive cleaning regimens, and I hesitate to use the term “anal retentive” because some of the regimens are deliberately simple, e.g. a couple patches soaked in hoppes run through the barrel after every range day. The most defensible argument I’ve seen is that in long range shooting, you’re probably going to replace a barrel every 3000 rounds or so. There are shooters who feel there won’t be sufficient fouling in that lifespan where cleaning is necessary. By not cleaning, their DOPE is a lot more predictable from match to match, and consistency is key. Having one less variable to worry about can be a huge advantage.
You have definitely given me something to think about in regards to the bore snakes. Do you have a rule of thumb for how often chrome lined barrels should be cleaned, or how often copper needs to be removed from a chrome lined barrel? Thank you for offering you're experience to us.
The FAL got a long muzzle device in British service because cleaning pull throughs were used with that off center line pull by soldiers cleaning their rifles in the field and that created a wear in the crown of the muzzle.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle Old mistakes, made over and over are 'fun'. I should be clear, it was the Enfields (No1s, No4s, etc) that were the ones damaged at the crown by pull-throughs dropped in the dirt with extra abrasives added in. And the British Small Arms Establishment fixed that when they adopted the FAL.
I never thought about one breaking off inside the barrel. Thanks for the heads up. When the snakes start to fray, or get really dirty, i just replace them. Never had one break though. The hard part about removing one would be the pressure created by trying to push it through with a rod. The impaction pressure pushing outwards would make it almost impossible to remove. You would need a rod with a screw type hook, like a spring, to press up against the impaction, turn to grasp, then pull towards you to release the pressure. That would be the best way to remove one.
the weave on many bore snakes will expand in diameter when trying to push through the barrel if stuck, thats why you really dont want to get them stuck, they are very difficult to remove...
I went out of my way to find some bore snakes that don't have abrasive brushes in them. The OTIS ripcord and the iosso "cleaning rope" that comes in their cleaning kit both do not have brushes on them.
love the portable cleaning kit! I was never really a fan of bore snakes, for all the reasons you mentioned. My biggest dislike is the fast accumulation of fouling. Its like re-useing a patch you just put through the bore. As someone who specializes in profesional cleaning, i always use brand new clean patches. Even if a new patch gets dirty, Ill throw it out and use a new one before it goes through a clients gun.
@@thingsstuff6564 ..they’re NOT that expensive really. For those who REALLY care about their firearms..it’s well worth it. Edited to add: I’ve cut up ‘old’ T-shirts for patches..and it works EVERY bit as good if not better.
"Professional cleaning" LMFAO"!!!!!!. I worked at a gun store for decades. Never once has the word"Professional cleaning " came up. Somebody that wants to give themselves a title to feel important. Yes I've dismantled and cleaned almost every gun out there. But I don't need to give myself a title
Funny timing Chad, Perrin and I were just talking about bore snakes the other day. Personally, once I see any type of fraying - it’s tossed. It’s a relatively low cost and disposable item. To be fair too, I really don’t even use them on a arm where the snake is shorter than the barrel/receiver/ejection port - just in case of breakage, my thinking being there’s still something to get ahold of to get it out of the barrel.
I can't tell you how many high-mileage M1s, Enfields, Mosins and other milsurp rifles I have shot over the years. And we were always taught to scrub the bore with wet patch, dry patch, wet brush, dry patch, etc. Shot out or corroded (from corrosive ammo) bores had trouble and others were OK even after a million rounds and lots of rushed cleanings. I think some guys today are insane about hurting their barrels with cotton or aluminum! ;( Peace.
I have a few bore snakes that I keep in travel kits on the "better than nothing" principle, but I've never really been a fan of them. Not knocking anyone who is, but I tend to stick to what has worked well for me for 50 years.
I sing the bore snake a song as I’m pulling it through to keep its mind focused on coming out as straight and consistent as possible. and I take the barrel to therapy to ensure it maintains its integrity. It was Recently diagnosed with acute bipolar disorder and is liable to fail at anytime, you know how those pesky rifle barrels are, so weak and unpredictable! Luckily it was prescribed a healthy dose of Wellbutrin and xanex.
I once had an otis cleaning kit cable stuck down the bore of a rifle for about 4-5 years (wasn't my gun, long story), only got it out very recently by using a standard screw together USGI style cleaning kit for an AR15 and gently tapping out the patch eye after unthreading the cable. Never using any kind of cable type cleaning kit again.
I wonder if you'd do a video on how to properly check out, clean, and lube a fresh AR, or even cleaning one from the range I'm not someone who owns a ton of ARs but am looking to get another (I currently have an a2 clone from using a 20" delton HBAR upper with a PSA a2 lower, as well as a carbine length M&P I got used from trading) and since ARs seem to be your specialty, I'm curious as to what you'd recommend to check and do to a new rifle before you go out and shoot it, even what lubes you recommend or the difference between lubes and CLP...even if it covers the obvious stuff like check BCG staking and such, as well as things to do when building an AR from a kit build(what parts you suggest to lube, or any tips and tricks you can offer) As while I can search and find other videos on this topic, they all don't seem to have the knowledge of the AR15 platform you have Plus it'd be nice to have a go-to video I can point any of my friends deciding to buy an AR15 based rifle for the first time, or build one, either as their first AR or as their first time building But I imagine you have a huge list of more important topics you wanna make videos on, just if you ever do run out of topics, or just want an easy one to cover, I'd highly suggest making the video, and know I'd be personally appreciative as what's out there is so generic, it never covers the little things I'm curious about like if different gas systems require different considerations, like if there are specific issues to the rifle length gas system or the fixed stock I should worry about, vs my adjustable carbine stock and carbine length gas system or even mid length, or barrel style, govt profile, pencil, heavy Barrel etc Maybe consideration for Magpul parts(as they're so common) with some tips, like your use of Velcro to stop rattle etc... I guess really a video on new or beginner AR rifle checks for a new rifle, what to do before taking a new rifle to the range, and tips and tricks you've learned over the course of your years of experience with ARs that some of us who are either new, or would appreciate an experts guide for newer AR owners I know that's a big topic.. so I can understand if you don't cover it... Either way keep up the great videos, as I've enjoyed each one since I've become a subscriber
A few questions keep popping up so I thought I would make a pinned post.
We will continue producing maintenance tip videos like this one as well as other video content.
I'm sharing my experience servicing 20k plus AR's and tens of thousands of other types of firearms.
As I said in the video, if you disagree with these tech tips that's ok. I make these videos to help those looking for information, not those who have nothing to learn.
Question 1 - Who makes your kit?
Answer 1 - It's something I pieced together. The case is made by Voodoo Tactical. It may not be made any longer. I'll make a separate video about the entire kit and include the names of the items in the kit.
Question 2 - Who makes the sectioned rod with brass connections?
Answer 2 - It's from a Swiss K31 Cleaning Kit.
Question/Statement 3 - You don't use bronze or stainless brushes but use a bore snake with a built in metal brush? Isn't that hypocritical?
Answer 3 - I rarely use bore snakes because of the built in brush. Others may use them often, thus the reason for the video. The items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop.
Question/Statement 4 - You tell us to worry about the use of bore snakes but have sectioned rods in your kit. They cause damage too.
Answer 4 - I never said segmented rods were 100% safe. Segmented rods have risk too, and Ill do a follow up video about them. I use them a very specific way to limit damage. The items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop.
Question 5 - Will you do a video about the entire contents of your portable cleaning kit?
Answer 5 - Yes we will do that. That being said, the items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop.
Question/Statement 6 - Do you need to worry about the angle if you have a muzzle device? Won't that prevent you from pulling at an angle?
Answer 6 - You can still put an angle with open ended flash suppressors. Brakes will force you to pull more inline with the bore.
Question/Statement 7 - You said not to use scraping tools yet you have plastic scrapers.
Answer 7 - I don't use those plastic tools to scrape at the bolt tail or other critical surfaces. It's mainly to clear or pry out things like mud, snow, and other items that find their way into the firearm. That being said, the items in my portable kit are for limited and field expedient use. I use different tools in the shop.
Question 8 - If a bore snake breaks and gets stuck, why not just drive it out with a rod?
Answer 8 - A bore snake gets tighter in the bore when it's pushed and often becomes more difficult to remove.
Some people use special fittings with compressed air or grease guns with success.
I have seen the results people trying blanks or live ammo to clear a stuck bore snake. It will usually blow up the gun or bulge the barrel. I wouldn't try that.
I have my own methods to remove broken bore snakes that grab it with prongs so it can be pulled out.
Question 9 - Why no bronze brushes?
Answer 9 - When you use barrel cleaners meant to remove copper fouling you generally clean until your patches no longer have blue or green residue (copper being removed). Bronze brushes will leave bronze in the bore and your patches may lead you to believe there is still fouling to be removed.
Bore cleaners can degrade bronze brushes as well.
***I'll update this pinned post as necessary.***
Thanks Chad. It's amazing the sorts of inferences people take away from you merely showing your field kit, almost like they don't know how anything works and they assume you don't either. What a pain to have to not only instruct people on how the AR works, but also on general mechanical and tool-use principles. Many folks seem to think selves born mechanics, but are hamfisted kludges in reality.
@@seanoneil277 thank you my friend. I just ignore the naysayers and move on. The good to bad ratio for our content is quite well and I'm thankful. For every person that acts like a wild animal, 50 people are kind and gracious.
A stuck bore-snake is like Chinese handcuffs.
Question 5. A video on that would be great. I'll keep an eye out!!
I order 2 and take a razor cut a line in and remove the bronze brush on one and keep the other one as is for hard cleaning but use the brushless one for just after range trip or random down time
Can’t damage your bore with brushes and solvents if you never clean your barrel 👌
About the only thing I clean on my AK in the barrel and breach, everything else is lubed with communist tears 😢
@@mattgeiger8247 this is about REAL guns. Not commie crap.
@DRTMI the only good thing to come from communism is an AK, go hug your double-barrel fudd
@@mattgeiger8247 where do you obtain your communist tears? And don't they damage accuracy?
@George you have to order direct through communist Nations, I don't like to give communism money but I will pay for that and a AK of course. About the only good thing that's ever been produced by communism is an AKM
I've been a rifleman in the military for 10 years. I've always carried and used the same 2 boresnakes during my time in. I always clean the upper receiver, followed by the star chamber then run a dry boresnake 3 times. ( I always run the boresnake after cleaning the receiver and chamber, if you do it first you will just drop carbon back into your already clean barrel). I've personally never had a problem with them. I'm also constantly lending it to other guys while cleaning weapons and I have never seen particular problems. From what I have seen it tends to be the most affective way to clean an AR barrel. With that being said I did see a guy run a 7.62 snake through a 5.56 rifle and that was a disaster. Attention to detail
Ive been using bore snakes for like 20 years. They are great
How to clean a bore snake:
Hot water with a couple of drops of dawn soap in a mason jar, shake vigorously!
Rinse hot water only, shake vigorously. Air dry.
I use a Nalgene wide mouth bottle. That little weight banging the glass jar as I shake vigorously made me think high strength plastic might be a better idea. Loop over a plastic coat hanger to dry.
Washing machine, just make sure the wife isn't home
I use the washing machine, but put the bore snakes in a lingerie bag so they do not tangle or damage the machine.
@@fiveowaf454old socks work according to the internet. Idk though because after all. It is the internet
Do you clean after every use? 5 used? Etc
I found it interesting that you showed great concern for the crown of the barrel but had a sectional steel cleaning rod in your inventory.
The crown is the last thing that touches the projectile leaving the barrel, making it an essential part of the accuracy equation. Chad even mentions the potential for embedded material lapping the metal away. Considering that barrel tolerances are measured in thousandths of an inch (.001 inch) and less (.0001 inch) that's not much material to remove before there's potential accuracy degradation. For sure not eggshells, but not invincible either and for sure not cheap to fix or replace.
Sectioned rods for potentially driving squibs or that broken bore snake.
@@TOOLMAKERA think you replied to the wrong person since you mentioned egg shells. That was someone else
Why did you have to bring logic into this?
I have those steel rods for one thing and one thing only, squibs
I had a customer bring in a bolt action rifle with a broken bore snake in the bore. He said he tried pushing it back out with a rod and jammed the aluminum rod and then stripped the threads leaving the snake and a section of rod in the bore. I soaked both ends with WD-40, let it sit about an hour and used air pressure. I hose clamped (I used 3 clamps) a piece of high pressure rubber hose to the muzzle end with a hose barb with a quick disconnect and gradually increased pressure, it took almost 85psi but luckily it popped out. I hope I never have to do that again.
Grease guns (NOT the M-3 type) with a suitable adapter at the muzzle will make a smaller "POP" when the obstruction departs. Works well with faulty cartridges stuck in the chamber. Not so much if it is a stuck fired case; the primer just pops out.
I think it would take 10's of thousands of pull through's to damage the crown or chamber. They are extremely hard! I don't think any normal shooter needs to worry about it. I could be wrong, I have been before, but I don't think a weekend shooter or hunter has to worry about it. Don't over think it. Just be careful and keep it clean.
Totally agree, we are talking hardened steel here
I agree. Even if the bore snake is carbon filled how is that worse then a copper jacketed projectile going through it at 3000 ft/sec. Dont see a dirty bore snake damaging a barrel or crown
as a machinist i can guarantee yu that you are not going to change hardened steel with a piece of cloth
also i dont think these people realize that you can change a barrel in 15 minutes or less.
Yah, I was wrong once too. That is the time that I thought I was wrong.
Cleaning gear has evolved tremendously since the olé M16-A1 days. Cleaned my first one in Feb.1977 with the buttstock cleaning kit on Paris Island.
Thanks for the great videos,,,,,,,
Semper Fi,,,
'93 for me, and an A2, but same shithole. Semper fi.
That kit is still legit.
@@osdreadlord3205 Yeah, they probably still have a billion of them warehoused somewhere. Some of the Otis kits are just the A2 kit with some extra stuff inside.
Dude, that lil’ kit you put together is exactly what I’m trying to put together. Cleaning kits for individual firarms can be soooo frustrating. So many sizes of rod ends and brushes and patch heads. Very Nice and alittle old school.
I always use mine sparingly, dry. I run patches after that to clear any debris out of the barrel. I was sure you were going to talk about a potential barrel obstruction that could go unnoticed due to a bore snake falling apart. I worry about that and always check the bore to ensure it is 100% clear. Good idea about the replacement policy, I was looking at mine the other day and thinking I had better replace it soon.
I always considered the bore snake something that is really compact for when you don't have the space to carry a rod with you. I wouldn't consider using the bore snake if I have cleaning rods handy. The cleaning rods just seem like a much better tool for cleaning the barrel. I think the mops do a great job and seem very safe. I use a patch first so that I don't get the mop so filthy as quick.
@@actionjksn If you have room for the rifle itself, I don't see how you wouldn't also have room for those screw together cleaning rods.
@@lobsterbark I don't know I don't own a bore snake, I use the rods that screw together but that is what I always assumed they were designed for, which is portability or rifles where you can't get a rod into the breach. My AR-15 actually has a stock that has a storage compartment where I could put a bore snake inside.
I always inspect my cleaning tools before I use them, haven't had an issue with bore snakes up to this point, but I also don't go crazy with them either. Smooth even pressure applied while pulling, and always try to pull them as straight as possible out of the barrel is key to eliminating the extra pulling pressures that may cause bad things to happen to the barrel and snake. Additionally, one must be aware of the potentials for snagging the snake on the chamber end of the barrel... you have to make sure that you route the snake in a way that snagging it is neigh to impossible.
The risk of damaging the crown by pulling out a snake at an angle seems to only apply if there is no muzzle device fitted. I avoid pulling the snake through at an angle since it seems more likely to damage the snake.
Thanks for putting your take on these out there. Have a few but I've heard varying opinions on whether I should even use them at all.
Really like these quick tip like videos, gives good information for your everyday Rifleman. I’ve learned a lot just by these videos. Thank you!
Lots of good advice here. I only use a bore snake occasionally and discard them when I notice significant signs of wear [usually a lot more than 100 uses]. The straight-pull technique is old as the hills...it was SOP since corrosive ammo was issued for military guns and daily cleaning was mandatory. Note that bore snakes can be washed with soapy water...this will remove most or all of the wear-creating carbon that sticks to them.
i don't see one bit of good advice here, all i see is some fool who cant figure out how to take a used up bore snake out of a barrel with a rod!
Thanks for pointing out how to clean the bore snake!! Not sure how the author would go to such pains to highlight how the carbon could be so damaging yet assume the audience knows how to clean the tool !
How often do you clean the snake?
@@saucyscrambler8710 When it gets visibly dirty. Since I don't use it that much, it doesn't get dirty quickly.
@@r1pbuck thank you. Do you only run the bore snake 1 time through so you aren’t “using a dirty bore snake down a clean barrel”?
This is the channel where you learn any and everything I don’t watch any other channels talk about ball carrier groups because I know that they can’t test it in depth and diagnose it like this man can. This is completely free to watch even .
Usually a worn out boresnake that fails, it’s only the brush that will hang up in a bore and it’s very easy to remove. Anyone running AR has to carry a rod anyway to knock out stuck brass
I just started using these and they are great. Never even thought of it breaking off in the barrel, so thanks for that warning. I really appreciate the video about bolt carrier groups as well. I didn't know you had to break the whole thing down and keep those rings lubricated.
You can get oil into the rings through the weep holes on the side of the carrier.
Keeps from breaking it down in the field to loose a firing pin retaining
pin lol.
@@matthewbeaver5026 Good call! Thanks.
I’ve been using BoreSnakes for twenty years! On inspection, a few were pretty bad. Thank you for sharing this
Good info as usual. I use bore snakes but very sparingly. Good to know i need to pay attention to pulling straight out
that's what she said
Always informative. Thanks!
I like to guide the bore snake so that when the larger part with the brush enters the chamber it's as parallel to the chamber as I can get it and then when it's started , pull it like you showed. I also wash them in a warm detergent every now and again, rinse well and let air dry. ( keep it clean .)
The big reason you don't want to brush or use harsh solvents on your bore is to avoid degrading carbon/copper fouling equilibrium in your bore.
There's a certain point at which you establish that equilibrium, where basically no more copper or carbon are building up in the rifling of your bore, and the bullet is pushing the excess out. It's at this point where your rifle will group most consistent, and you don't want to damage that. Just run a patch with CLP down it, and call it good.
Unit armorer running a patch through your bore: yah see that there high speed that's carbon alright now try again
Obviously a military specific problem, but it still gets drilled into a lot of shooters that any carbon = bad and they end up over cleaning the hell out of everything. Hard habit to break.
@Michael-uc2pn I had that exact same issue. Had to sit down and explain barrel break in to an armorer. He looked at me with a blank stare and said "uhh. Can you just go clean it again?"
Thank you! Excellent advice to know & to pass on to new shooters.
Thank you for the warnings and tips.
That’s cool to see you have the Swiss rods, mirror and handle in your kit. They are my favorite rods to use.
If you're worried about it you can always just use a doubled over piece of heavy fishing line with loops tied on the ends to pull patches through. Works great really. Sometimes you might need a drinking straw or the like to avoid getting snagged on muzzle devices
String trimmer line.
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried string trimmer line and had problem preventing the old cotton shirt patch from pulling through the trimmer line when I tried melting the end of the line to create a bulge to hold the patch on. If the patch is sized big enough to create a little friction when passing through barrel then it will often pull out of the cotton rag patch. I run 10 to 20 patches through a barrel when cleaning so I don't want to take a lot of time security each patch. Do you tie a new new loop for each patch you run through and cut off the loop before you tie a new patch on?
@@richardburnett-_ I tried string trimmer for .177 air rifle as I don't have a fiberglass rod that small. The problem is I have not been able to keep the cotton rag (t-shirt) material from pulling off the trimmer line even after melting the line to create a bulge on the end. A smaller bulge may bull through. Some ends I created have broken off. What type of patches are you using and how are you keeping the patches on the line?
@@raykettel1837 A melted blob may not work without stout patches. A knot first, then melted a bit to ensure it doesn't unravel, would be better. I'd rather use weed trimmer than fishing line, but maybe I don't have enough stout fishing line handy.
You can melt the other end a wee bit and sort of twist the melted plastic into a bit of a point to help push stout patches onto the line.
@@s0nnyburnett Bench racers are the funniest folks.
I've never used a bore snake, and I absolutely despise the cables. I was issued an Otis kit for my M4. I used it once and promptly acquired an old school cleaning kit. I still have that kit too.
I'd like some more info on what you keep in your optics cleaning kit. I have a lens pen and some basic spray and wipe cleaners, but I'm always interested to learn what others use.
Love this channel. Always learning.
I really appreciate this video I’ve really been looking for information on this.
Love bore snakes and I believe your 100% correct about pulling them straight out because of the possibility of lapping. Also like the idea about replacement intervals.
The thing I wonder about when I see people cleaning their barrels with bore brushes or snakes is that I think they get over zealous with it and they brush the crap out of it and some don't pay attention to which direction they pull or push the brush through or worse, they go back and forth repeatedly.
I was taught to just wet the bore down with solvent, let it sit for a few minutes (about the time it takes to smoke cigarette). Then push or pull a brush through 3x to 5x from the chamber towards the muzzle only unless weapon design prevents you from doing so in which case I'll opt for the bore snake. Then start pushing oily patches through till they come out clean. Sometimes I'm lazy and will rinse the bore with break parts cleaner blow air through to evaporate it then run a few oilly patches through til they come out clean followed by one dry patch.
Been getting good results, my barrels are still accurate, and feel like I'm doing what's needed without over doing it. I've watched alot of people go at it, scrubbing their barrels like they were scrubbing a toilet bowl and thinking to myself, that's got to create unnecessary wear but I could be wrong.
You can go either way. You just have to be sure the brush comes all the way out first. So the bristles can filp the other way when pulling back through with a rod. I guess thats one advantage to the snake, you can keep going the same way throughout.
Action to muzzle keeps the debris out of the action but it's not a must.
@@matthewbeaver5026 I think some claim pulling a brush back in from the muzzle end can damage the crown. That is why it is recommend to insert from the chamber end if at all possible when using a rod. A rod cannot be inserted from the chamber end in all long guns so a snake may be a better choice. A rod can be used from the muzzle end but with understanding that it could damage the crown. I think there are devices one may insert to protect the crown.
I think a lot of folks try to understand cleaning by doing "research" (whatever methods they prefer, internet forum searches or YT videos) and then have no ability to put into context just what their findings suggest.
A soldier looking for field utility and reliability with his infantry rifle has different concerns than a benchrest shooter who measures his impact deviations in the smallest fractions.
A person who shoots his rifle 1x/yr and 20-30 rounds on that 1x has no reason to obsessively clean his barrel and use a borescope to "make it shiny". A casual shooter has no need for benchrest shooter rifle cleaning strategies.
The military have historically taught soldiers to clean too often, and as an outsider non-mil person I'd say it probably was to keep them busy while indirectly stressing the idea of a well-maintained rifle. But it's definitely possible to overdo the cleaning, and it's possible to stress about things which have no positive impact on your rifle or your own accuracy.
More damage is done using Aluminum Cleaning rods that are uncoated and no muzzle guide /crown protector. Steel cleaning rods that are dirty can also cut the Muzzle. You should also roll your Boresnakes up and put in a cloth bag tied closed and toss them in the washing machine every 3rd or 4th time they are used.
Yep, also for cleaning rods, plastic is a ok
Those are the cleanest cleaning tools and kit I have ever seen.
I’ve had my .22 boresnake since I got my first AR in 2008 and it’s still in great condition. I just used it last night in fact to clean it. I’ve had other boresnakes for about as long and never have had an issue with them either.
With that said though, while I do like them and value them, I only use them to clean the barrels in between cleanings and keep them in my emergency kit. I come from a law enforcement background when it comes to shooting and maintaining my firearms ans d was taught that every time I shoot, no matter if it’s an entire range session with a gun or I just run a mag through it, it gets thoroughly cleaned afterwards. That includes solvents and a good bore brushing and then running patches through until they come out clean.
Otherwise, especially with my carry guns, when in between cleanings when I’m simply wiping the gun and oiling it back up, I run a bore snake with a few drips of oil on the leading edge through the barrel to get any loose debris out.
They’re handy tools for that and in case of minor emergencies in the field, but there’s no way you can get a bite aptly cleaned just using them.
Dang man, I didn’t even think of that, I just ordered a new set, mine are over 5 years.
Thank you for this amazing tip.
Good advice. Thanks
Thank you, great reminders.
Thanks for the heads up
I only use clp with my bore snakes and Dewey cleaning rods for a proper cleaning. In my youth I messed up a barrel crown with my surplus cleaning rod
Thank you for that info.
Good video.. I use Boresnakes as well.. but usually before and after a shooting session with CLP only.. at the beginning, a couple pull throughs to make sure there's no obstruction and clean out dust.. and after shooting again to clean dust, minor fouling and just for me to know it's cleared and safe..
Good information and schedule idea. Thanks
Using them dry can be problematic, too. I ran one dry once and had a heck of a time with it. I thought it was stuck in there for good. A little squirt of Ballistol and it slid out.
That is a very pristine looking cleaning kit! Sometimes they need to be used. Has anyone ever thought about just replacing them when they start to get frayed rather than letting them getting into a shape like that?
Although I agree with 100% about pulling the snake strait through. How much are you really going to damage the crown with a muzzle device installed?
I was wondering this too, I’ve only pulled out from an angle maybe 7-9 times with a muzzle device (dead air flash hider) Installed. Good to know this info so I won’t do it again.
With brakes it's more difficult to cause damage because the front of the brake forces alignment.
Some flash hiders can allow you to pull at an angle.
Clean however you wish.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle ya an A1/A2 birdcage is basically a hollowed out opening at the end
You still want to pull it straight just for the fact of reduced chance of breaking the bore snake in the barrel, can’t say I’ve never pulled it off for one reason or another but I do try to keep it straight
@@Arthurian.and yet here you are on a video about bore snakes, concern8n* yourself with what random people on the internet are “worried” about
I had a horrible experience with a bore snake. Ended up send my rifle back to Savage to get it re-barreled after the crown was damaged by a gunsmith who tried removing it. It was my fault for getting it stuck. I will say, Savage was awesome. They didn't even charge me for the new barrel. All I paid was shipping both ways.
Did you use the wrong size bore snake and got it stuck?
@@mikeanthony07 It was the correct size. It got balled up on the end as I was pulling it through the barrel. It was my fault for not paying attention to what I was doing.
Last measure on broken or object stuck in barrel is air pressure. I have filled both ends with oil, then seal the air hose nozzle end on barrel and apply air. It has worked for me. Be careful, it will come out forcefully.
Very good tip. Something I never knew. I'm not a fan of snakes. But I learned something!
Very good information! Thank you,
Great advice thanks
Man, I love these videos. Thank you for keeping me from doing damage to my guns in my ignorance.
Thank you for your confession.
I never use bore snakes anymore. Shotgun patches and hoppes. And Iosso nylon brushes for tough scrubbing. If THAT doesn't do it. I use JB bore cleaner, that stuff it great.
Very interesting. I have been most fortunate in that I have always pulled my bore snake through my rifle barrels straight out -- it was the way it was taught in the British Army, although no reason was given. Now I know! 😇
Until I saw this video it would have never occurred to me that someone would be dumb enough to not pull it through straight. That just doesn't make any sense to me
@@actionjksn😂😂😂😂 true but believe me you got some real idiots in this world
These videos are great! Keep them up.
When I heard you say, “Do-Dads” it reminded me of my Grandma!😃
Won't use any bronze brushes, just nylon. But will use a bore snake with a bronze brush built into it. LOL. Excellent advice.
This is good info. I use bore snakes on my ARs and hunting rifles. Always have been cognizant to pull straight through. I don’t clean my rifles’ barrels after every shooting. I’ve seen some guys that over-clean and put a lot of wear on their guns. After sighting in, my hunting rifles don’t get cleaned for the remainder of the season unless they get extraordinarily dirty or wet. I clean them before they are placed into storage. My ARs are usually shot several times before the barrel gets cleaned (I shoot my ARs multiple times a week, usually 140 to 200 rounds in a session). Most of the time, I just break down my BCG, wipe, and re-lube while it’s still warm. My AR barrels don’t need that much attention. When I do clean them, I typically run a bore snake with hoppes applied to the brushes through the barrel twice. I’ve never had an issue.
Some one put a brass brush on a drill to the end of their f class rifle on "soft stainless" and all it did was polish it a little bit. He hit it at all angles supper agressive too.
@@____MC____ honestly, I’m less concerned with wear on the chamber or bore from over cleaning than I am with wear to bolt of an AR. I used to go to town cleaning the concave area of the bolt near the gas rings where carbon builds heavily. I used to scape at that with steel tools. That will run a bolt in a hurry if repeated often enough.
@@leifhoklin2681 ive done that too. Good to know. Ive even polished one to help keep the build up away before finding this guys videos on bcg's. Maybe if you had a plasic scraper it would be ok
Many thanks! Much appreciated!!
I think many of us use a bore snake not as a replacement for a good cleaning kit, but as something to simply run sown the barrel once or twice before we case everything up at the range. The real cleaning happens later for me.
Thank you Sir
Semper Fidelis
Thanks for the information
The pace of your explanation is perfect.
a lot of the newer bore snakes have a hand peace that you can use to help keep you steady while pulling them through. i just picked up a AR10 and got a new cleaning kit and the bore snake that came with it has a plastic disk that you hook the end of the snake on and you have finger grooves to help with leverage and keep it straight and when you finished with it you rap the snake around it and it all stores together. i love it so much lol. thanks for all of the great videos, i have been subscribed to you for a while and love how thorough you are.i realy feel bad about how hard youtube has made it for you but i will always support you as long as you make videos. thanks again
I came with an open mind and was mildly surprised, thanks for the info. I will replace my bore snake(s) before it frays.
I've run bore snake type of barrel devices from various makers, of various calibers, with various chemicals for longer than care to remember. I've used them all hundreds if not thousands of times in some calibers but I also clean them regularly with hot water and mild dish detergents. I just replaced my well used set of Hoppes original Boresnakes with the Vipers and expect them to last hundreds of uses as well. I would say you're spot on about pulling them through nice and straight....that's probably where 99% of the wear can be avoided if you clean them regularly.
Good advice!
I'm for sure guilty of pulling through from a slight angle .
2:21 what? Pay a gunsmith? If one is inside you just:
Push it out with a ram rod?
Or shoot a blank?
Or blow it out with a air compressor?
I agree it's pain ofc.
Btw I'm a fan of yours You do great, useful content.
I just started using bore snakes. Always used the three piece rod for years. The bore snake that i use seams to be hard to pull through even though it says 223 on it. I think that i like the rods better even though i have to unscrew the end off every time. Thanks for the info.
I used to use the 3 piece. Till I broke one at a joint in a barrel.
Rural king has full length one piece rod with spinning handle for $20+/-
Now I've seen it all, you're telling me tards are f en up guns with bore snakes? Yikes
Taters are gonna potate, and tards are gonna tard!
Interesting info. Thanks for the information.
I like the idea of nylon or plastic bushes and cleaning tools. I have seen some top shooting channels like MarkandSam Afterwork basically saying that never cleaning your barrel is the best option, because of the lead/carbon/copper is already perfectly smooth using a brush destroys your barrel’s accuracy.
I’ve still used copper brushes recently just for wanting to keep my gun clean for storage.
Many who compete with rifles may thoroughly clean their entire barrel at the end of each season. Other who maybe do not compete may recommend only thoroughly cleaning once one starts getting more fliers or the groupings get much worse. One still likely needs to remove the carbon ring that forms much more often. It may require leaving a patch soaked with bore cleaner advertised to remove carbon.
Copper can build up to cause dangerous pressure although it takes a ridiculous amount of rounds, Have you ever tried to clean a BBQ grill or oven with a plastic brush? It's not effective
@@hardcorefishermen false
I follow their cleaning regime.....it hasn't failed yet....and I don't think I'll change anything soon
Long range rifle competitors tend to be obsessive. There are some that subscribe to complete myths like “barrel break in procedures”. There are others who follow very anal retentive cleaning regimens, and I hesitate to use the term “anal retentive” because some of the regimens are deliberately simple, e.g. a couple patches soaked in hoppes run through the barrel after every range day.
The most defensible argument I’ve seen is that in long range shooting, you’re probably going to replace a barrel every 3000 rounds or so. There are shooters who feel there won’t be sufficient fouling in that lifespan where cleaning is necessary. By not cleaning, their DOPE is a lot more predictable from match to match, and consistency is key. Having one less variable to worry about can be a huge advantage.
Standard USGI Cleaning rod sets don't absorb garbage, they don't degrade due to chemicals, and don't break off in the barrel.
You have definitely given me something to think about in regards to the bore snakes. Do you have a rule of thumb for how often chrome lined barrels should be cleaned, or how often copper needs to be removed from a chrome lined barrel?
Thank you for offering you're experience to us.
I had not even considered this, thanks.
Great advice!
Thanks for the info, Chad
The FAL got a long muzzle device in British service because cleaning pull throughs were used with that off center line pull by soldiers cleaning their rifles in the field and that created a wear in the crown of the muzzle.
I did not know that. Thank you for the history lesson.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle Old mistakes, made over and over are 'fun'.
I should be clear, it was the Enfields (No1s, No4s, etc) that were the ones damaged at the crown by pull-throughs dropped in the dirt with extra abrasives added in. And the British Small Arms Establishment fixed that when they adopted the
FAL.
Thanks for the video. Getting anything through a ar15 barrel is tough for me. Would liked to have you describe how you clean the bore snake.
I never thought about one breaking off inside the barrel. Thanks for the heads up. When the snakes start to fray, or get really dirty, i just replace them. Never had one break though. The hard part about removing one would be the pressure created by trying to push it through with a rod. The impaction pressure pushing outwards would make it almost impossible to remove. You would need a rod with a screw type hook, like a spring, to press up against the impaction, turn to grasp, then pull towards you to release the pressure. That would be the best way to remove one.
the weave on many bore snakes will expand in diameter when trying to push through the barrel if stuck, thats why you really dont want to get them stuck, they are very difficult to remove...
I went out of my way to find some bore snakes that don't have abrasive brushes in them. The OTIS ripcord and the iosso "cleaning rope" that comes in their cleaning kit both do not have brushes on them.
Caveat on the iosso rope is that i don't think they make it for calibers other than 22cal.
love the portable cleaning kit! I was never really a fan of bore snakes, for all the reasons you mentioned. My biggest dislike is the fast accumulation of fouling. Its like re-useing a patch you just put through the bore. As someone who specializes in profesional cleaning, i always use brand new clean patches. Even if a new patch gets dirty, Ill throw it out and use a new one before it goes through a clients gun.
Or you can just wash the bore snake if you’re that concerned
You gotta use dozens of patches to clean a rifle, how can you afford that?
@@thingsstuff6564 ..they’re NOT that expensive really. For those who REALLY care about their firearms..it’s well worth it. Edited to add: I’ve cut up ‘old’ T-shirts for patches..and it works EVERY bit as good if not better.
"Professional cleaning" LMFAO"!!!!!!. I worked at a gun store for decades. Never once has the word"Professional cleaning " came up. Somebody that wants to give themselves a title to feel important. Yes I've dismantled and cleaned almost every gun out there. But I don't need to give myself a title
@@thingsstuff6564lol.
maybe because you buy them by the hundreds for less than ten bucks.
Funny timing Chad, Perrin and I were just talking about bore snakes the other day.
Personally, once I see any type of fraying - it’s tossed. It’s a relatively low cost and disposable item.
To be fair too, I really don’t even use them on a arm where the snake is shorter than the barrel/receiver/ejection port - just in case of breakage, my thinking being there’s still something to get ahold of to get it out of the barrel.
Good info! Thanx!
I can't tell you how many high-mileage M1s, Enfields, Mosins and other milsurp rifles I have shot over the years. And we were always taught to scrub the bore with wet patch, dry patch, wet brush, dry patch, etc. Shot out or corroded (from corrosive ammo) bores had trouble and others were OK even after a million rounds and lots of rushed cleanings.
I think some guys today are insane about hurting their barrels with cotton or aluminum! ;(
Peace.
I have a few bore snakes that I keep in travel kits on the "better than nothing" principle, but I've never really been a fan of them. Not knocking anyone who is, but I tend to stick to what has worked well for me for 50 years.
Helpful, thanks
I definitely prefer cleaning rod over bore snake, especially with higher end barrels!
Great advice , very much appreciated 👍
Great pointers
I sing the bore snake a song as I’m pulling it through to keep its mind focused on coming out as straight and consistent as possible. and I take the barrel to therapy to ensure it maintains its integrity. It was Recently diagnosed with acute bipolar disorder and is liable to fail at anytime, you know how those pesky rifle barrels are, so weak and unpredictable! Luckily it was prescribed a healthy dose of Wellbutrin and xanex.
I once had an otis cleaning kit cable stuck down the bore of a rifle for about 4-5 years (wasn't my gun, long story), only got it out very recently by using a standard screw together USGI style cleaning kit for an AR15 and gently tapping out the patch eye after unthreading the cable.
Never using any kind of cable type cleaning kit again.
I did not know any of this and since im hoping to buy my first rifle this year its something im glad i know now,so thank u
That’s why you inspect them before every use!
Much appreciated
I wonder if you'd do a video on how to properly check out, clean, and lube a fresh AR, or even cleaning one from the range
I'm not someone who owns a ton of ARs but am looking to get another (I currently have an a2 clone from using a 20" delton HBAR upper with a PSA a2 lower, as well as a carbine length M&P I got used from trading) and since ARs seem to be your specialty, I'm curious as to what you'd recommend to check and do to a new rifle before you go out and shoot it, even what lubes you recommend or the difference between lubes and CLP...even if it covers the obvious stuff like check BCG staking and such, as well as things to do when building an AR from a kit build(what parts you suggest to lube, or any tips and tricks you can offer)
As while I can search and find other videos on this topic, they all don't seem to have the knowledge of the AR15 platform you have
Plus it'd be nice to have a go-to video I can point any of my friends deciding to buy an AR15 based rifle for the first time, or build one, either as their first AR or as their first time building
But I imagine you have a huge list of more important topics you wanna make videos on, just if you ever do run out of topics, or just want an easy one to cover, I'd highly suggest making the video, and know I'd be personally appreciative as what's out there is so generic, it never covers the little things I'm curious about like if different gas systems require different considerations, like if there are specific issues to the rifle length gas system or the fixed stock I should worry about, vs my adjustable carbine stock and carbine length gas system or even mid length, or barrel style, govt profile, pencil, heavy Barrel etc
Maybe consideration for Magpul parts(as they're so common) with some tips, like your use of Velcro to stop rattle etc...
I guess really a video on new or beginner AR rifle checks for a new rifle, what to do before taking a new rifle to the range, and tips and tricks you've learned over the course of your years of experience with ARs that some of us who are either new, or would appreciate an experts guide for newer AR owners
I know that's a big topic.. so I can understand if you don't cover it...
Either way keep up the great videos, as I've enjoyed each one since I've become a subscriber
Cool! Good info.
This is the first negative thing i have ever heard about bore snakes