Nice... I always measure from the top of the nut to the end of the stud with a digital caliper as well as paint marking everything, that way i make sure I'm back on the same turn for the preload....
This was excellent. I like to count the turns to ensure it goes back to the right place, but I like the caliper idea mentioned below for the preload. I will be donating because you saved me a lot of money!
The axle problem turned out to be the kid at O’Reillys gave me the wrong bearing one right one wrong I want to say unbelievable but it’s believable it happened ha ha ha ha
I have a 2016 1500 with on 55k on the clock and was surprised to see this seal leaking already! Hoping this is still covered by my warranty but if not, this made the job a whole lot easier.
Thank you. You got right to the point, and you told us what year make and model vehicle you were working on. Excellent camera and audio work. Subscribed!
Liked and Subcribed. My 2019 just started to leak. I'm buying a seal puller and borrowing a air gun. Don't even want to think what the dealer would charge!! Thanks!!
Manual for 2007-2009 Silverado 1500 Preload torque but may be different for yours. Suspect 2007-2013 1500.: Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, New Bearings 3.4-6.2 N.m 30-55 lb in Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, Used Bearings 2.8-5.1 N.m 25-45 lb in
I'm having a hell of a struggle with getting that pinion nut off. I have an impact driver 20V that I'm trying to use after getting some PB Blaster penetrating fluid on it. I even tried a breaker bar. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x4 Z71 Extended Cab. Any suggestions?
I got a 92 Chevy c1500 4.3 ltr v6 and my seal will not go flush with the differential I got another new 1 and it's the same, what do I do? There's and very small gap around all sides .
I just had my rear pinion seal replaced. Now I get a random metal- on- metal chirping, grinding and shuddering on the front end. Do you think its related? 2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000miles There's no whirring, like a bad differential. Thanks 😊
Great job with the video thank you. Is the pinion nut a crush nut and should you use a new one every time you take it off ?? if so there is no mark on it to replace the same as you took it off ???
I pulled cloth , hard plastic, metal circle spring and some rubber gasket on the differential part, is that a bad thing or is that part of the pinion seal???
I did the front diff seal on my 2000 Yukon, never marked anything. Put it back together and now it locks up when in 4WD(Can't be driven). I obviously have the pinion on wrong and probably torqued wrong. Any suggestions when in this situation? Im going to back off the nut at lest to start.
It seems to have a crush shield, so I just backed it off, put the driveshaft in and very slowly moved forward in 4wd, like maybe 10 feet, which loosens it off. I then called a GM mechanic and he told me no harm done, lock tight and 100 ft/lbs torqued and do it in increments. So I did 40lbs, then, 70, then 100 and I have no balance issues and it has not backed off at all. I've had three snow storms since and have driven about 200 miles or so in 4wd without any issue. @@isaiahavinarosas8509
What happens if you dont put back the same way do you get a noise like a loud motorcycles noise!? I had my oil pan removed due to timing chain replacement by someone and when put back i started to get vibrating under my feet and noise over 80km speed please help!? Thanks
@@isaiahavinarosas8509 its was actually done by a mechanic! And he did mark the joints and went back again and rechecked everything and noise still only over 80 , 79km no noise!!!!!
Watching this after already removing the 32mm nut. Was not aware of pre load so didn't mark it with the sharpie like you did🤦♂️. Is there another way to ensure it's put back on correctly?
You are out of your goddamn mind! Tell me where do you get the torque specs from considering each differential requires a different amount of pressure to crush the crush washer!
I got a 92 Silverado and have a bad seal But the truck was previously a friend of mine who just passed away and I took everything off and didn't know about aligning that bolt but he got stuck and rope got into that seal and damaged it, I don't know if I'm doing any of this correctly and don't have any help. I don't know what 2 do and don't have money for a mechanic
Not that it matters one bit, but you're off a spline on reinstall. You did forget to mention how important it is to measure the depth of the nut on the pinion threads before you take the flange(yoke) off. The yoke must be all the way back in the same position that it was in when you removed it. There is no way of knowing this unless you count the threads showing or measure the depth with a precision measuring device such as a caliper or a depth mic. Also, one other tip. I always use a flange holding tool when I remove the nut and reinstall it. I don't like banging gears together when it is entirely not necessary.
It should be said though. Before you remove the drive shaft you should chalk your wheels, and set the e-brake.....unless it's on a hoist. But I've heard horror stories of this. The last thing you want is your truck rolling over you, in your slanted suburbia driveway!
The reason you mark the pinion NUT and pinion when replacing the seal is NOT to ensure you re-attach the driveshaft the same way it came apart, but to ensure when you replace the yoke and torque the nut you get the pinion bearing preload back to something close to proper values. If you didn't do that, good luck with obtaining proper pinion bearing preload. Now you'll need to pull it apart and start over with a new crush sleeve. You just turned an afternoon job into a multi-day-long thrash.
I have done this 3 times to my chevy and it still leaks. I just ran across an article saying to put rtv silicon on the pinion and yoke splines as well as on the back of the washer before putting the nut on. Did you do that and not show it or what?
No I have not done that before. But in my experience if the leak still appears you may have a bad yoke. The seal may have scored a ring around the yolk decreasing the diameter of it.
@@AaronHinesAuto Yeah, I noticed a seal inside the yoke but no vids on how to replace it. It could be the yoke is bad. Today I took the yoke off and put the sealant on the splines and washer and reassembled it. Test drive went well. Then I notice it all dripping again and the yoke was wet so maybe I tried to test drive before the sealant was dry or like you said the yoke might be bad. well, thx for reply
@@route67slidin I changed the yoke seal and pinion seal and it still leaks. I dont know why at this point. Maybe they keep selling me the wrong pinion seal or something.
It's a multi purpose puller and the link is correct. You can also use it for pulling steering wheels, flywheels, gears etc. You can't live without one of these if you do much auto work.
Yes. Video completely misses this part. A new pinion nut should be used, if possible. And preload should be measured with a proper torque wrench. Otherwise it will leak again or you’ll have a vibration at highway speeds
@@christopherhodge6154 I get a random metal on metal chirping and shuddering in the front end , after a rear pinion seal? Yikes..do I need to replace the old nut? 2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000 miles There's no whirring sound in the differential. Thanks 😊
Impact gun??….so, basically take it to Mechanic shop and pay them to do the work…. what average handy viewer who’s trying to diy is going to have air compressor, impact gun and socket, etc, space & money??🤦🏾♂️🤣😭 Details on alternate tools and more efficient method (and torque tools) for precise pre-load tension would have made this a fabulous video, instead of just okay…..but thank you for at least trying…. We appreciate it.
Did your grandfather tell you that an independently balanced driveshaft would make the car shake? He's wrong. The driveshaft is balance all by itself and there's no way for you to create a vibration by clocking it to any other position. Old wive's tales die hard --- and I wish they would. As far as marking the gland nut to come back to it during reassembly --- that's wrong. You feel the companion flasnge lose slop and then it stops wobbling and then the preload on the pinion bearings increases until you can feel a slight drag on them as you rotate the flange back-n-forth. It's feel --- not drawing lines on the differential. I've done hundreds of pinion seals in my lifetime on everything from Hondas to Greyhound busses, OTR big rigs, and more and I've never used all the gimmickry you do ---
Holy Bible-Romans 10:9-10: 9 If you declare with your mouth, "Jesus is LORD," and believe in your heart that God raised him from the dead, you will be saved. 10 For it is with your heart that you believe and are justified, and it is with your mouth that you profess your faith and are saved. Romans 10:9-10 We're living in the end times. Jesus will be rapturing his church before the 7 years of Tribulation begins. He will come back after the 7 years. If you miss the rapture don't take the mark of the beast, you can't go to heaven if you do. It will be on your right hand or your head. God bless you.
Nice... I always measure from the top of the nut to the end of the stud with a digital caliper as well as paint marking everything, that way i make sure I'm back on the same turn for the preload....
So, if the measurement is short do you tighten the nut till it meets that measurement while holding the yolk in place at the paint marks?
What happens if u dont do this how to fix it if u never marked it i need help
And also i didn’t mark because that middle bearing where u count the threads was so loose for some reason what can i do
What did you end up doing? I'm replacing parts and wondering the ramifications of not putting everything back exactly as it was. @miguelvasquez4231
@@ericalynnposton8661 the bearing will have too much slop or too much tension. Just wears out quicker and you will need a new pinion bearing.
Nice work on the video!
Great example of clear, concise information with easy visuals.
This was excellent. I like to count the turns to ensure it goes back to the right place, but I like the caliper idea mentioned below for the preload. I will be donating because you saved me a lot of money!
Need to count the turns when removing the nut to maintain proper preload upon reinstallation.
Teri Shuler
Or count the threads?
The axle problem turned out to be the kid at O’Reillys gave me the wrong bearing one right one wrong I want to say unbelievable but it’s believable it happened ha ha ha ha
I have a 2016 1500 with on 55k on the clock and was surprised to see this seal leaking already! Hoping this is still covered by my warranty but if not, this made the job a whole lot easier.
Great tutorial, straight and to the point. Thank You
Thank you. You got right to the point, and you told us what year make and model vehicle you were working on. Excellent camera and audio work. Subscribed!
Liked and Subcribed. My 2019 just started to leak. I'm buying a seal puller and borrowing a air gun. Don't even want to think what the dealer would charge!! Thanks!!
Great video! Very nice install he gave me step-by-step directions on how to do this myself. Also saves me a ton of money lol appreciate you.
Straight to the point. Thank you for the video !
Thank You! Detailed and to the point!
Nice work BROTHER!!!
Use new oil though.. 😊
Thanks 🙏
Thanks. Changing mine soo. This is the exact video I needed.
Manual for 2007-2009 Silverado 1500 Preload torque but may be different for yours. Suspect 2007-2013 1500.:
Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, New
Bearings
3.4-6.2 N.m 30-55 lb in
Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, Used
Bearings
2.8-5.1 N.m 25-45 lb in
You have to use wheel chocks? It will prob roll once you remove drive shaft?
Ouch, did you count the threads before you removed the nut? This is a crucial step when installing the nut back on.
I'm having a hell of a struggle with getting that pinion nut off. I have an impact driver 20V that I'm trying to use after getting some PB Blaster penetrating fluid on it. I even tried a breaker bar. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x4 Z71 Extended Cab. Any suggestions?
I got a 92 Chevy c1500 4.3 ltr v6 and my seal will not go flush with the differential I got another new 1 and it's the same, what do I do? There's and very small gap around all sides .
Awesome video easy and straight to the point great job
Great work brother 👍
Looks easy. Thank you!!
Since the drive shaft is balanced also, should it be marked before removal?
Excellent
I just had my rear pinion seal replaced. Now I get a random metal- on- metal chirping, grinding and shuddering on the front end. Do you think its related?
2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000miles
There's no whirring, like a bad differential.
Thanks 😊
I was always taught that the crush sleeve is a one time use part and needs to be replaced and preload set anytime the yoke is replaced.
Great job with the video thank you. Is the pinion nut a crush nut and should you use a new one every time you take it off ?? if so there is no mark on it to replace the same as you took it off ???
First of all there’s no such thing as a crush nut, It is a crush washer which is much different than a pinion nut!
Excellent very informative 👌
I pulled cloth , hard plastic, metal circle spring and some rubber gasket on the differential part, is that a bad thing or is that part of the pinion seal???
Very Helpful !
Thanks
Can you remove the bearing that is right behind the seal?
Pinion shaft has to come out first
Did this fix the problem without incident 6 months down the road?
If the yoke on the back axle spins without resistance what would i need to be replacing...would it be gears or bearings forgive me im new to this 👍
Open the diff cover and see what broke
I did the front diff seal on my 2000 Yukon, never marked anything. Put it back together and now it locks up when in 4WD(Can't be driven). I obviously have the pinion on wrong and probably torqued wrong. Any suggestions when in this situation? Im going to back off the nut at lest to start.
Did you fix it i did the same thing bro lmk
It seems to have a crush shield, so I just backed it off, put the driveshaft in and very slowly moved forward in 4wd, like maybe 10 feet, which loosens it off. I then called a GM mechanic and he told me no harm done, lock tight and 100 ft/lbs torqued and do it in increments. So I did 40lbs, then, 70, then 100 and I have no balance issues and it has not backed off at all. I've had three snow storms since and have driven about 200 miles or so in 4wd without any issue. @@isaiahavinarosas8509
What happens if you dont put back the same way do you get a noise like a loud motorcycles noise!? I had my oil pan removed due to timing chain replacement by someone and when put back i started to get vibrating under my feet and noise over 80km speed please help!? Thanks
This is because you did not align your stuff correctly you marked it before removing it
@@isaiahavinarosas8509 its was actually done by a mechanic! And he did mark the joints and went back again and rechecked everything and noise still only over 80 , 79km no noise!!!!!
If I put mine back together and I have vibration what do I need to do
Watching this after already removing the 32mm nut. Was not aware of pre load so didn't mark it with the sharpie like you did🤦♂️. Is there another way to ensure it's put back on correctly?
yes - torque wrench
You are out of your goddamn mind! Tell me where do you get the torque specs from considering each differential requires a different amount of pressure to crush the crush washer!
@@timcableokay but what is the torque spec if you know pls help me out
Did you find out the torque spec
It’s not a normal torque spec you need an old style torque wrench and it measures the resistance of the rear end as it turns with the wheels off
I got a 92 Silverado and have a bad seal But the truck was previously a friend of mine who just passed away and I took everything off and didn't know about aligning that bolt but he got stuck and rope got into that seal and damaged it, I don't know if I'm doing any of this correctly and don't have any help. I don't know what 2 do and don't have money for a mechanic
Not that it matters one bit, but you're off a spline on reinstall. You did forget to mention how important it is to measure the depth of the nut on the pinion threads before you take the flange(yoke) off. The yoke must be all the way back in the same position that it was in when you removed it. There is no way of knowing this unless you count the threads showing or measure the depth with a precision measuring device such as a caliper or a depth mic. Also, one other tip. I always use a flange holding tool when I remove the nut and reinstall it. I don't like banging gears together when it is entirely not necessary.
It should be said though. Before you remove the drive shaft you should chalk your wheels, and set the e-brake.....unless it's on a hoist. But I've heard horror stories of this. The last thing you want is your truck rolling over you, in your slanted suburbia driveway!
Agreed but if someone doesn't already know that they have absolutely no business attempting this themselves to begin with.
@@zachnuketown dude, i know that, but a safety reminder is a good thing to many
It doesn't hurt that bad if it's runs over the leg s
The reason you mark the pinion NUT and pinion when replacing the seal is NOT to ensure you re-attach the driveshaft the same way it came apart, but to ensure when you replace the yoke and torque the nut you get the pinion bearing preload back to something close to proper values. If you didn't do that, good luck with obtaining proper pinion bearing preload. Now you'll need to pull it apart and start over with a new crush sleeve. You just turned an afternoon job into a multi-day-long thrash.
I have done this 3 times to my chevy and it still leaks. I just ran across an article saying to put rtv silicon on the pinion and yoke splines as well as on the back of the washer before putting the nut on. Did you do that and not show it or what?
No I have not done that before. But in my experience if the leak still appears you may have a bad yoke. The seal may have scored a ring around the yolk decreasing the diameter of it.
@@AaronHinesAuto Yeah, I noticed a seal inside the yoke but no vids on how to replace it. It could be the yoke is bad. Today I took the yoke off and put the sealant on the splines and washer and reassembled it. Test drive went well. Then I notice it all dripping again and the yoke was wet so maybe I tried to test drive before the sealant was dry or like you said the yoke might be bad. well, thx for reply
sticknstonesbrkbones how did you make out ?
@@route67slidin I changed the yoke seal and pinion seal and it still leaks. I dont know why at this point. Maybe they keep selling me the wrong pinion seal or something.
@@sticknstonesbrkbones make sure that your vent is not clogged
Great video.
Redoing a 10 bolt GM rear axle everything went smooth until the passenger side axle won’t go back in it binds up or get stuck working this be
excellent! NOW i can do it................
Can you do this without a yolk puller?
Yes
what about the seal in the yoke that pinion seal slides into ?
Thank you!
All seals fail from age or just wear from high mileage.
can you use a breaker bar and 32mm socket by hand?
Yes that's what I used
Nice channel 👍
the tool he is using is for a timing set timing gear puller there 22 on amazon
hey there I have a leaky pinion seal but in the front differential. would technique work in the same fashion?
Yes! Same procedure
@@AaronHinesAuto nice my Denali AWD seal is leaking and I have all the tools already hopefully it wont take me to long!
Should the driveshaft be disconnected and does it matter which side the axles go in
Did you have to count the threads down to the nut or does it have to be torqued?
both
Have any other links or part numbers for the yoke puller? The link pulls up a harmonic balancer puller.
It's a multi purpose puller and the link is correct. You can also use it for pulling steering wheels, flywheels, gears etc. You can't live without one of these if you do much auto work.
Do you know what the preload should be? And shouldnt we use a new nut? Also the tools to measure preload are very cheap on Amazon.
Yes. Video completely misses this part. A new pinion nut should be used, if possible. And preload should be measured with a proper torque wrench. Otherwise it will leak again or you’ll have a vibration at highway speeds
@@christopherhodge6154 I get a random metal on metal chirping and shuddering in the front end , after a rear pinion seal? Yikes..do I need to replace the old nut?
2008 jeep grand cherokee 3.7 with 166,000 miles
There's no whirring sound in the differential.
Thanks 😊
probably a good idea to swap in a new axle bearing, right?
Is the front or rear one ?
Impact gun??….so, basically take it to Mechanic shop and pay them to do the work…. what average handy viewer who’s trying to diy is going to have air compressor, impact gun and socket, etc, space & money??🤦🏾♂️🤣😭
Details on alternate tools and more efficient method (and torque tools) for precise pre-load tension would have made this a fabulous video, instead of just okay…..but thank you for at least trying…. We appreciate it.
2:28 fuckin magic?
Did your grandfather tell you that an independently balanced driveshaft would make the car shake? He's wrong. The driveshaft is balance all by itself and there's no way for you to create a vibration by clocking it to any other position. Old wive's tales die hard --- and I wish they would.
As far as marking the gland nut to come back to it during reassembly --- that's wrong. You feel the companion flasnge lose slop and then it stops wobbling and then the preload on the pinion bearings increases until you can feel a slight drag on them as you rotate the flange back-n-forth.
It's feel --- not drawing lines on the differential.
I've done hundreds of pinion seals in my lifetime on everything from Hondas to Greyhound busses, OTR big rigs, and more and I've never used all the gimmickry you do ---
Really Aaron using a claw hammer?????????
Holy Bible-Romans 10:9-10: 9 If you declare with your mouth, "Jesus is LORD," and believe in your heart that God raised him from the dead, you will be saved. 10 For it is with your heart that you believe and are justified, and it is with your mouth that you profess your faith and are saved. Romans 10:9-10
We're living in the end times. Jesus will be rapturing his church before the 7 years of Tribulation begins. He will come back after the 7 years. If you miss the rapture don't take the mark of the beast, you can't go to heaven if you do. It will be on your right hand or your head. God bless you.
go to the carpenters videos dumbass -throws wrench at McFadden lol
but will he fix my leaky pinion seal?
WHY DOES THE SEAL FAIL ?
Seals fail from age and high mileage.
Buen trabajo🤔🚚💯
Thanks for the clear and concise tutorial!