Jeff Smith DSP talk tonight
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.พ. 2021
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I noticed this too in my 20 XSE! Thanks for confirming Jeff! Thanks Dean for hosting him! Happy Trails Fernando!
Stereo Integrity HST24 modified for true IB is the most extreme driver you can ever have for low lows! I didn’t want to believe how quiet it is mechanically and how nearly 1000g of MMS can be still so musical! 🔊🔊
I've got two SI IB24s with the carbon caps just sitting in my house waiting to go in my Ford Transit 250
@@thedraftdoctor1 did you ever install those subs? That sounds insane!
Thank you for the meet and greet yesterday guys! Awesome talking with you and your recommendation of Frenchy’s Outpost was awesome!
Jeff smith is one cool guy. Part 2 needed for phase explanation. Great stuff👍
Man the amount of knowledge in this video is insane. I was especially impressed by the portion letting us know how to get full FLAC bitrate out of our iphone.
Learned a ton and just what great video anxious for part 2. Got a dsp finally crossing over some what
thanks for this episode and i can't wait for part two
This was such a kick-butt episode! I could listen to Mr Smith talk for hours, he was hitting all the points I find myself interested in.
Hey that's my name
Every time I start thinking of a subject you seem to have a video in a week or two for me to learn about. You make it easy to follow along to difficult to explain subjects. Keep up the great work!!
I suggested the diminishing returns topic for Reverse Polarity. Dean brought up my exact scenario and recommended what I was thinking about doing and used the speakers I was looking at in his example. I bought them the next day and am very happy with the results.
Nice video looking forward to Jeff being back on! Great info and advice
Amazing video(s). The portions on setting gains and level matching really made the pieces fit for me. Jeff seems like a good dude with a wealth of information and Dean, you did an awesome job of steering the conversation and adding your own pearls. Well done.
Sometimes videos like this get boring to me, but Jeff was really interesting to listen to and I was able to watch the whole video while paying attention to everything. Lots of good information in this video
this was awesome, i met jeff a couple of times over the years at CES. dude is awesome!
Can't wait for the next session with Jeff!
Jeff Smith. All around great dude. Met him at one of our trainings a few years back.
One of the best episodes to date. I noticed Smith Audio Designs on Mr. Smith’s laptop. Does he provide car audio services?
Do another session on all pass & phase EQ
JL Audio has an amazing video on their TwK trainings, I think it's the TwK #3 video that goes in depth on time alignment, phase adjustment, and how to use All-Pass crossovers for detailed phase adjustments.
Looking forward to part 2 as I have a helix DSP ultra. I was just curious when Jeff mentioned -6 db does that mean he puts all his channels he is using at -6 db as I see his tweeters were around -17.75db. Or does he adjust it on the IO screen? I would love to do an IB subwoofer install as that seems to be the best way to do subs for sound quality but don’t want to put a hole in the back of my new jeep lol
This was really good on high res lossless playback. iOS recently added the capability for playback on there music. Great info.
Peter is a f#ckin MAD MAN! And I Love it!! He has helped inspire to decide on some crazy things over the past couple years. Someone I truly appreciate for sharing their knowledge.
How can I get in touch with these guys. I need some help
Yes, I got The Who reference. Great vid! What is the difference between IB and a periodic? I get that the AP mat loads the speaker by offering some resistance, but it’s similar in that you vest to the outside of the vehicle. Please discuss.
How do I set the DM 608 input gain when using only a digital coax input?
Who got the contact info for the dude Jeff Smith?
Is there any loss by using a Pac amp pro with one RCA for sub (AP4-GM61) vs amp pro with 2 RCAs (APSUB-GM61) for sub?
Other then not being able to add more amps nope
Hey dean off topic question would a hd1200/1 amp be too much for 2 jl w3 4ohm subs or can it handle it I just happened to find a good deal on one please let me know
You can always get a bigger amp than you need. Just don't over power the subs. The problem area is not enough power. In that situation you might end up clipping the amp output to get more power and that can overheat the voice coils.
I need a sub system like that, I wonder if I could do that with.. (oh they just said JL ) or (sundown wonder 🤔)
Dean you do understand when you pulled out that 3055 Heaven's gates opened with trumpeting angels, rite???
How can I get to the level past hobby. I love car audio way too much, according to other people. The more I do the more I learn the more I want to do more of both!!!!
I'd suggest getting some measurement gear. An oscilloscope can be under $150. Get an xlr mic, an xlr to USB adapter, an rca to xlr and REW and you cam measure your speakers as well as measure the electrical responses. You can learn a ton with all this gear.
Next times let’s get to see some of his REW measurements. I
He uses Audiocontrol for measuring
@@FiveStarCarStereoInc eh whatever. I just meant his acoustical measurements in general
Ok what's wrong with the Daytona DSP? All I need to know is it a good start for a beginner?
@chris phillips
A few things to keep in mind:
1. This is a "budget" DSP. As such, the lowest possible quality parts and software development were used to meet its price point.
Think about it...at its selling price, in order to allow for any profit to be made by the manufacturer and seller, this unit most likely costs less than $50 to actually manufacturer. And that includes software development and testing.
That means the ADC & DAC chips, the actual processing chip/CPU, and the analog preamp output circuitry (basically cheap OPAMPS) are all very low grade and older tech, using a bare bones approach.
Having said that, we are so far along at this point in terms of digital audio tech that even the older, basic chips and circuits do a perfectly fine job that is more than satisfactory for the vast majority of consumers. But it's just a cheap, bare bones unit.
2. Dean is not a fan of this DSP partly do to his specific work environment. Time is money in the install bay, and he needs products "that just work" out of the box.
He doesn't have time to research or troubleshoot any issues that pop up when he has another perfectly functioning piece of gear on the shelf that he knows will work and that he is already much more familiar with and already knows its quirks, workarounds, etc.
The software is just "okay". It does include everything you really need to properly tune a system, but it's just "bare bones" and not a very "polished" experience overall.
The way in which you navigate and switch between the different adjustments and settings is a bit janky.
The main issue is that the RCA Preamp Output Voltage is low, and not particularly quiet. So gain staging and matching your other equipment to it is very important. It's not extremely versatile when trying to implement it into a large variety of setups, especially in terms of OEM integration.
It's also a bit finicky in terms of the source and input matching. So in general, its noise floor (hiss) and the potential for other noise issues such as ground loops, alternator whine, etc are more probable.
So if any aspects of your system aren't perfectly matched to its optimal I/O specs, you might get frustrated trying get everything to work together properly, and get a clean signal, etc.
For it's price point, it is a "decent" unit, but you really can't expect much. It's not going to be as versatile for all types of systems, or as polished in features and the software/user experience.
But if you have the rest of your system in order, and have the time and desire to learn its specific quirks and troubleshoot the problems, it will "get the job done". But it most likely will not be a quick "plug & play", seamless user experience. Nor will the resulting SQ be at the same level as the more expensive units.
Some people enjoy the challenge of solving problems and troubleshooting things just to "get something to work". But some don't need the frustration or have the time or desire to sort out any potential issues. They just want something that works out of the box and is "Plug N' Play", so that they can get "on to the next one".
I think that this unit would be much better suited for use in a budget DIY home audio system, rather than car audio. And I believe that is what it was initially developed for.
Personally, I would just save for a bit longer, and/or look for a used Helix DSP, miniDSP, or a RF DSR1 (if it fits your integration scenario), rather than potentially struggle with the Dayton DSP-408.
None of the car audio DSP units are perfect. They all have their particular quirks, no matter the price. And sometimes when you add a host of extra features, the overall complexity of operation and the tuning process increase as well.
But the Dayton DSP-408 is really made to meet a particular price point as a primary goal, and the results and user experience reflect this.
Lots of people upgrade from the original Helix DSP and DSP Mini units, so you can often find these used at close to the same price as a new DSP-408. The original JL Audio TwK 88 is a very good value if you find one used as well.
I'm personally not a fan of the AudioControl DSP products, but for a beginner their software is probably easier to use and learn. Just be careful if you want/need a digital optical Toslink input.
@@bbfoto7248 I'm going to have to say Bravo! That was a hell of an explanation. Enjoyed reading it. 👊
@@bbfoto7248 ty,ty,ty I'm still going to give this a shot! I've always been into caraudio all my life, and always been a fan of SQ but always helped friends compete in DBDRAG and BassRace but as I've gotten older i like my daily driver just to sound dam good! So guys just keep making the videos so I can learn more, ty very much Chris Phillips
@@samuariyugo He's right about level matching. It clips at the inputs somewhere shy of 2V rms. At least @ 40hz. So you do end up having to drive the outputs. I bought 3 PAC LD-10s to do that. ~$25 each. No noise problems at all. Software works fine and tweaking it from your phone is convenient. This is my first try at installing a sound system and it sounds amazing, so whatever. It was only $200 with the bluetooth dongle...what do you want? Tuning tip: Set the master level all the way up, it won't clip but keep the individual channels at 58/60 or they do start to clip.
Can 2 dual speakers be wired to 1 ohm
Any 2x matching SVC 2ohm speakers can be wired to 1 ohms.... Any 2x matching 4ohm DVC can be wired to 1ohm..... The only real difference will be the speakers dampening from the amplifier .......
HOWEVER and this is extremely important...... Your amp needs to be 1ohm stable.... So if you are bridging 2x 2ohm speakers you are creating a 1ohm mono load.... Which not many multiple channel amps can handle....
If using a mono amp make sure it is also 1ohm stable
@@shane35fowler can you send a diagram please?
@@shane35fowler You typically CAN wire a 1 ohm load to a 2 ohm stable amp. keep in mind that the 1 ohm you mean on the speaker leads is DC voltage. Music playing on the subs is AC so the impedance will move around based on the frequency it's playing. Subs wired to 1 ohm almost never get down to 1 ohm, they might get down to 2 ohm or maybe 3 ohm at the lowest. It depends on a lot of factors. This can be verified by looking at the impedance as you play different frequencies. This does put more stress on the amp as you might actually get its rated output.
@@dwainemckinney4190 There are lots of diagrams online. Just look up subwoofer wiring. Learn the difference between parallel and series wiring. Two dual 4 ohm subs can make a 1 ohm load. Each sub is wired in parallel to make a 2 ohm load and then the two subs are wired in parallel to make a 1 ohm load.
If you have dual 2 ohm subs you can get a 1 ohm load, only 0.5 ohm or 2 ohm.
I think that was w4 or W5 there was A IB Sub woofer for jl Can't remember but I know it's a paper cone paper woofer pulp ..... It was just different... And I'm not a big Is JL audio fan. I own W7.... I just don't think they're all that I like old school handcrafted Subwoofers kind of like Is digital zone and FI...... Handcrafted American made woofer
22 Presets - HAHAH. 4 is enough!
96 KHz 24 bit... vs. 44.1 KHz @ 16 bit - no one. NO ONE... can hear any difference. Sorry. Delude yourselves all you want. Placebo effect. That's why 44.1 KHz @ 16 bit (with 1,411 Kbps / 1.41 Mbps actual CD bitrate) was chosen way back in 1981. The engineers got it right. Only lab equipment can really tell the difference. Maybe...MAYBE in a totally quiet environment, with super sensitive headphones, could a human with amazing hearing discern a slight improvement in noise floor, but that's about it. But in a running CAR, idling, or moving anywhere from 5 to 75 MPH?!?! No way. 44.1 KHz @ 16 bit, 192 Kbps to 320 Kbps Bluetooth is perfectly fine.
There actually is a difference you can hear. It doesn't come from the bit depth or sample rate, though. What allows Hi-Res to sound better is the lack of a steep low pass filter above 20k. That filter that all CD players and music players use does cause an unforseen issue. Because Hi-Res extends the frequency response out to 30k Hz you do get a sound improvement that everyone can hear. Its a very interesting topic. For a long time people did not know why it sounded better, but it definitely did. Even with double blind tests, people could hear the improvement. So it's not a gimmick.