Dry chainring bolts have a lot of friction when tightened due to their large-diameter threads and heads. This explains why dry bolts tightened by the manufacturer are pone to loosening. Therefore, chainring bolts need to be greased. Their threads and both heads. This will allow you to achieve proper torque so they don't loosen up. Grease will ensure corrosion is prevented or kept to a minimum. Grease allows for future service without issue. Grease also prevents annoying creaking that can occur. Given the comments below, I'll add that having a proper chainring bolt tool for the backside is imperative. 40 years in the bike biz greasing threads and it hasn't failed me yet. Mountain and road tandeming where chainrings undergo a LOT of stress & torque and I've never lost a properly installed and tightened chainring bolt. I've destroyed five rear hubs climbing really steep stuff on the mountain tandem, so lots of torque going through the main drive train.
Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate your well thought out, detailed comments. I did not understand the importance of greasing these nuts and bolts. I am going to change my process. Again, thank you.
Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I am sure that blue loktite will do a great job holding the nut and bolt together. However, I do not use it on my chainring bolts because it is difficult to get a good grip on the nut. If I were to use loktite, it would be much harder to remove the nut and bolt and may require removing the spider from the crank. Even if I did use loktite, I would put a zip tie through the nut just to make sure that I did not lose the nut and bolt in the event it did come loose. Thanks again.
Thank you for your comments. Regarding your question, as to why I would want to reuse a chainring bolt, I have had the nuts and bolts come loose when I am out riding, and I need to tighten them to be able to get back to the trail head or to be able to keep riding. I am trying to prevent the bolts coming loose, and I then loose them (which has happened to me) out on the trail. Also, if you have a good way to get a grip on the nut while the spider is still on the bike, I would appreciate your sharing that with me. I use the Park CNW-2 tool (wrench), but it is sometimes hard to get sufficient pressure on the nut. In my earlier comment, but I said that locktite "will do a great job holding the nut and bolt together." But using it in this application is just not ideal for me as I described. I appreciate your comments and suggestions; however, I plan to continue making videos. Thank you.
@@boydcombsakaGster I also use the blue locktite but look into the wolftooth chainring bolts. They use allens on the front and the back and are easier to torque to spec and also a lot easier to remove. Good idea with the zip ties though.
Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I appreciate your sharing your experience with locktite and the wolftooth chainring bolts. I am going to look into the wolftooth option. I appreciate the tip.
Are those the crank arms that came with Bafang motor? Why did you go with the burgtec chainring? Do you run the burgtec with shimano, and is the chainring the inside or outside fit model? Sorry for so many questions, I am just trying to piece together my build. Just got my frame yesterday.
Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. Congratulations on your upcoming bike build. I have really enjoyed my e10, and I hope you have a similar experience. Now let me answer your questions. Yes, I have the cranks that came with my e10. They are 170mm, and I prefer 170mm over 165mm because I ride the bike more like a pedal assist and less like a "always Turbo" type rider. The extra leverage from the 170 crank arms (as compared to the 165) is more compatible with my riding style. Also, I have 29er wheels front and back so the bike is high enough off the ground that pedal strikes are not an issue. (Based on some preliminary measurements, I believe I would be OK with the 170 cranks even if I had the bike set up as a mullet (29 front and 27.5 rear).) Good question on the Burgtec chainring. I have been running Deckas Aluminum chainrings (cheap but the Deckas only last about 200 miles). But I just recently decided to try the steel Burgtec to see if it last long enough to justify the additional cost (I doubt it as the Burgtec was about $40USD and the Deckas rings are about $5USD). I am running a Shimano m5100 derailleur with a 9 speed Box Component shifter (so my drive train is 9 speed). I use KMC chains (9 spd, 10 spd or 11 spd--all work great). Absolutely no issues with the compatibility. The Burgtec chainring fits on the side of the crank spider that is closes to the motor and the Burgtec has treads in the chainring so that I do not have to use separate crank nuts. (The Deckas rings fit the same way, except that I have to use nuts with them.) I hope that I answered your questions. If not or if you have other things that come up, please feel free to ask me more questions. Also, I hope that you are on the Dengfu Frame Ebike Owner's Group on Facebook and that you will be sharing pictures and experiences with your build. I look forward to hearing and seeing how it goes. All the best!
If you go to the burgtec web site under the the chainring section, they have five options to purchase from. Two options are for Sram which I don’t need, however the other three chainring options state either inside or outside fit. Not sure what they meaning? I want to go with the 32 tooth chainring, but I just wanted to make sure that I am purchasing the correct one. I am looking at chainrings meant for e bikes. Could you look at the site and give me your opinion? Thanks for the videos. They have been a great resource and I watch them all.
Good questions. I looked at the Burgtec E-Bike Steel Thick Thin Chanrings. Assuming that you use the Bafang spider and that the spider is the same spider as the one I received about 1.5 years ago, you need a 104 BCD chainring (which is very good thing because about 80% of all mtn spiders use 104 BCD--parts are plentiful). The inside vs outside refers to the slot on the spider that the chainring fits into. "Inside Fit" means that the slot on the spider (where the chainring fits) is "inside" the chainring, that is, the slot is between the spider and the motor. "Outside Fit" means that the slot on the spider is on the outside of the spider, that is, between the spider and the crank arm. My Bafang spider is "inside fit" and, most likely, your spider is the same. The reason that this is a big deal is that the "inside fit" chainring has threads and to tighten the chainring to the spider and therefore you only need bolts (and not nuts). Also, an "inside fit" chainring will only fit correctly on an inside fit" spider; whereas, an "outside fit" chainring will fit on a spider for either (but you will need to use nuts and bolts" on the "outside fit" chainring because it has no threads). Here is a link showing a picture of an "inside fit" spider: enduro-mtb.com/en/ochain-active-spider-review-2020/ Here is a link showing a picture of an "outside fit" spider: bike.bikegremlin.com/8326/chainring-standards/ If you are unsure, you can use the 104BCD 32chainring that comes from Dengfu when you get all the bike and parts (at least it came with mine). The chainring that came with my bike was an "outside fit" with nuts and bolts so i just used it and it lasted about 250 miles. There is nothing wrong with the OEM chainring except that it is aluminum and therefore has a relatively short life. Also, some spiders has attachment places on the inside and outside. Normally, if there are 2 slots, the outside slot is for a chain / bash guard and not the chainring. When the chainring is on the bike and the bike in the middle gear on the cassette, there should be a straight line through the chain between the cassette and the chainring. If not, then there is a problem with the chain-LINE and you need to get that sorted (normally with washers) or the drive components will wear out really quickly. I run a 32T chainring and an 11-42 cassette. I had an 11-46 cassette, but bigger cogs never got used because the motor even on ECO has a lot of torque and it can easily handle the moderately low gear ratio and does not need the 46. Forgive me as I babble on. Let me know what I missed. Cheers!
BTW, here is a link to my Dengfu e10 build sheet. If you have not seen it, you may find it interesting. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ctxkF3XXIlgQlZ-q7vBbltInIiJ90yGdsLXIyVbbyn0/edit?gid=0#gid=0
Dry chainring bolts have a lot of friction when tightened due to their large-diameter threads and heads. This explains why dry bolts tightened by the manufacturer are pone to loosening. Therefore, chainring bolts need to be greased. Their threads and both heads. This will allow you to achieve proper torque so they don't loosen up. Grease will ensure corrosion is prevented or kept to a minimum. Grease allows for future service without issue. Grease also prevents annoying creaking that can occur. Given the comments below, I'll add that having a proper chainring bolt tool for the backside is imperative.
40 years in the bike biz greasing threads and it hasn't failed me yet. Mountain and road tandeming where chainrings undergo a LOT of stress & torque and I've never lost a properly installed and tightened chainring bolt. I've destroyed five rear hubs climbing really steep stuff on the mountain tandem, so lots of torque going through the main drive train.
Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate your well thought out, detailed comments. I did not understand the importance of greasing these nuts and bolts. I am going to change my process. Again, thank you.
@@boydcombsakaGster you're very welcome!
A drop of blue loktite is not sufficient?
Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I am sure that blue loktite will do a great job holding the nut and bolt together. However, I do not use it on my chainring bolts because it is difficult to get a good grip on the nut. If I were to use loktite, it would be much harder to remove the nut and bolt and may require removing the spider from the crank. Even if I did use loktite, I would put a zip tie through the nut just to make sure that I did not lose the nut and bolt in the event it did come loose. Thanks again.
Thank you for your comments. Regarding your question, as to why I would want to reuse a chainring bolt, I have had the nuts and bolts come loose when I am out riding, and I need to tighten them to be able to get back to the trail head or to be able to keep riding. I am trying to prevent the bolts coming loose, and I then loose them (which has happened to me) out on the trail. Also, if you have a good way to get a grip on the nut while the spider is still on the bike, I would appreciate your sharing that with me. I use the Park CNW-2 tool (wrench), but it is sometimes hard to get sufficient pressure on the nut. In my earlier comment, but I said that locktite "will do a great job holding the nut and bolt together." But using it in this application is just not ideal for me as I described. I appreciate your comments and suggestions; however, I plan to continue making videos. Thank you.
@@boydcombsakaGster I also use the blue locktite but look into the wolftooth chainring bolts. They use allens on the front and the back and are easier to torque to spec and also a lot easier to remove. Good idea with the zip ties though.
Wolffooth chain-ring bolt & blue Loc-Tite for the win
Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I appreciate your sharing your experience with locktite and the wolftooth chainring bolts. I am going to look into the wolftooth option. I appreciate the tip.
Are those the crank arms that came with Bafang motor? Why did you go with the burgtec chainring? Do you run the burgtec with shimano, and is the chainring the inside or outside fit model? Sorry for so many questions, I am just trying to piece together my build. Just got my frame yesterday.
Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. Congratulations on your upcoming bike build. I have really enjoyed my e10, and I hope you have a similar experience. Now let me answer your questions. Yes, I have the cranks that came with my e10. They are 170mm, and I prefer 170mm over 165mm because I ride the bike more like a pedal assist and less like a "always Turbo" type rider. The extra leverage from the 170 crank arms (as compared to the 165) is more compatible with my riding style. Also, I have 29er wheels front and back so the bike is high enough off the ground that pedal strikes are not an issue. (Based on some preliminary measurements, I believe I would be OK with the 170 cranks even if I had the bike set up as a mullet (29 front and 27.5 rear).) Good question on the Burgtec chainring. I have been running Deckas Aluminum chainrings (cheap but the Deckas only last about 200 miles). But I just recently decided to try the steel Burgtec to see if it last long enough to justify the additional cost (I doubt it as the Burgtec was about $40USD and the Deckas rings are about $5USD). I am running a Shimano m5100 derailleur with a 9 speed Box Component shifter (so my drive train is 9 speed). I use KMC chains (9 spd, 10 spd or 11 spd--all work great). Absolutely no issues with the compatibility. The Burgtec chainring fits on the side of the crank spider that is closes to the motor and the Burgtec has treads in the chainring so that I do not have to use separate crank nuts. (The Deckas rings fit the same way, except that I have to use nuts with them.) I hope that I answered your questions. If not or if you have other things that come up, please feel free to ask me more questions. Also, I hope that you are on the Dengfu Frame Ebike Owner's Group on Facebook and that you will be sharing pictures and experiences with your build. I look forward to hearing and seeing how it goes. All the best!
If you go to the burgtec web site under the the chainring section, they have five options to purchase from. Two options are for Sram which I don’t need, however the other three chainring options state either inside or outside fit. Not sure what they meaning? I want to go with the 32 tooth chainring, but I just wanted to make sure that I am purchasing the correct one. I am looking at chainrings meant for e bikes. Could you look at the site and give me your opinion?
Thanks for the videos. They have been a great resource and I watch them all.
Good questions. I looked at the Burgtec E-Bike Steel Thick Thin Chanrings. Assuming that you use the Bafang spider and that the spider is the same spider as the one I received about 1.5 years ago, you need a 104 BCD chainring (which is very good thing because about 80% of all mtn spiders use 104 BCD--parts are plentiful). The inside vs outside refers to the slot on the spider that the chainring fits into. "Inside Fit" means that the slot on the spider (where the chainring fits) is "inside" the chainring, that is, the slot is between the spider and the motor. "Outside Fit" means that the slot on the spider is on the outside of the spider, that is, between the spider and the crank arm. My Bafang spider is "inside fit" and, most likely, your spider is the same. The reason that this is a big deal is that the "inside fit" chainring has threads and to tighten the chainring to the spider and therefore you only need bolts (and not nuts). Also, an "inside fit" chainring will only fit correctly on an inside fit" spider; whereas, an "outside fit" chainring will fit on a spider for either (but you will need to use nuts and bolts" on the "outside fit" chainring because it has no threads). Here is a link showing a picture of an "inside fit" spider: enduro-mtb.com/en/ochain-active-spider-review-2020/ Here is a link showing a picture of an "outside fit" spider: bike.bikegremlin.com/8326/chainring-standards/
If you are unsure, you can use the 104BCD 32chainring that comes from Dengfu when you get all the bike and parts (at least it came with mine). The chainring that came with my bike was an "outside fit" with nuts and bolts so i just used it and it lasted about 250 miles. There is nothing wrong with the OEM chainring except that it is aluminum and therefore has a relatively short life.
Also, some spiders has attachment places on the inside and outside. Normally, if there are 2 slots, the outside slot is for a chain / bash guard and not the chainring. When the chainring is on the bike and the bike in the middle gear on the cassette, there should be a straight line through the chain between the cassette and the chainring. If not, then there is a problem with the chain-LINE and you need to get that sorted (normally with washers) or the drive components will wear out really quickly.
I run a 32T chainring and an 11-42 cassette. I had an 11-46 cassette, but bigger cogs never got used because the motor even on ECO has a lot of torque and it can easily handle the moderately low gear ratio and does not need the 46.
Forgive me as I babble on. Let me know what I missed. Cheers!
Oh yea. Thanks for watching all my videos!
BTW, here is a link to my Dengfu e10 build sheet. If you have not seen it, you may find it interesting. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ctxkF3XXIlgQlZ-q7vBbltInIiJ90yGdsLXIyVbbyn0/edit?gid=0#gid=0