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Hey. Thanks for watching my video. I do not know the answer because I do not have a throttle on my e10. Sorry that I can't be more help.

I love my e10 also, but I felt it was important to make sure that e10 owners are made aware of the experiences of others. Thanks for watching the video and for commenting.

Regarding the Dengfu e10 headset, I do have a small bit of experience. The lower crown (head tube) on my e10 had only 9mm of insertion depth available for the lower cap, and the upgrade that I was considering needed about 12mm (if based on my memory--could have been more but I believe it needed about 12mm). I was looking into a Works Component headset upgrade, and after some correspondence with Works Components, they said "This does seem to be an issue with the Dengfu frames - they have prepared the headtube to a very shallow depth and only a small amount of headsets will fit as a result - the bearing itself is 7.5mm in height so this leaves only 1.5mm of cup wall thickness if installed internally at 9mm." Upon hearing that I decided to go with the headset provided by Dengfu, and I have not had any reason to change it out since I installed it in mid 2023. Responding specifically to your situation, the headset supplied by Dengfu did fit flush into the frame, but the lower cup was loose once it was installed. I used some tin foil and loctite to wedge it in tighter, and the inserted cup has not moved as long as I have had the bike (over 1.5 years now). Hopefully the bike shop can help resolve your issue; my guess is that the insertion point on the frame needs to be "milled-out" a bit. Not good, but probably not that uncommon especially on carbon fiber bikes. I did use the factory headset that came with the frame. As I explained above, I tried to upgrade the headset and the upgrade did not fit (flush) in the frame because the head tube insertion point was too shallow. Hope that helps.

I was curious, what is the weight of your e10?

Here are the weights of my e10: without out battery and pedals = 48lbs; with battery, without pedals = 57lbs; with battery and pedals = 58lbs. However, I can only weigh my bike using my bathroom scales. So I calculated the weights first with my weight and then my weight holding the bike. The difference would be the weight I am reporting. I am not sure just how precise these weights are, but that is all I have.

@@boydcombsakaGster Thanks! That gives me a good reference point. I am building my dengfu 10 with parts that are intended for e bike use so I am expecting it to be heavier than other builds.

Yes, I agree it will, most likely, be a heavy bike.

Thank you for watching and for commenting on my video. I really appreciate your suggestion. If you do not mind, would you let me know if this is the type of video you would like to see? I will take a mtb or emtb that has one brand of hydraulic disc brakes and replace those brakes with another brand of brakes. Then in another video (maybe more than one) I will show how I: fully bleed, partial bleed (when to do a full or a partial), lube the pistons in the caliper, check for a damaged lever, restore contaminated pads (not always successful), adjust the "throw", install new disc pads, etc. Let me know if there are other topics or if some of these are not very interesting. Thank you again for you suggestion.

Yes. I would find bleeding, checking for damage, and maintenance of brakes very useful! It’s not super difficult to do if you have the guided instruction(s) like your videos provide. I have been using your videos as a point of reference in knowing what to expect and watch out for. One last question for you. Do you know if you can upgrade the 10 headset? I have just got my frame and have yet to unbox it. I am thinking of upgrading to a crane creek headset. Do you have any insight?

I will work on some brake related videos along the lines of those I suggested. I normally prepare my videos and schedule them for public viewing and, as of right now, I have all my videos for the month of December ready to go. This means that I will most likely not have the brake videos until early next year. I hope that timing is OK. Regarding the Dengfu e10 headset, I do have a small bit of experience. The lower crown (head tube) on my e10 had only 9mm of insertion depth available for the lower cap. I was looking into a Works Component headset upgrade, and after some correspondence with Works Components, they said "This does seem to be an issue with the Dengfu frames - they have prepared the headtube to a very shallow depth and only a small amount of headsets will fit as a result - the bearing itself is 7.5mm in height so this leaves only 1.5mm of cup wall thickness if installed internally at 9mm." Upon hearing that I decided to go with the headset provided by Dengfu, and I have not had any reason to change it out since I installed it in mid 2023. Hope that helps.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I did not derive the Wh, I obtained those numbers (1008 and 840) from Dengfu. Therefore, I suggest that you contact Dengfu regarding the calculation of the Wh. I understand your other points, but I still believe an e82 offered with the same battery that is offered in the e10 would be an appealing option for many.

I appreciate you watching and for commenting.

Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. Congratulations on your upcoming bike build. I have really enjoyed my e10, and I hope you have a similar experience. Now let me answer your questions. Yes, I have the cranks that came with my e10. They are 170mm, and I prefer 170mm over 165mm because I ride the bike more like a pedal assist and less like a "always Turbo" type rider. The extra leverage from the 170 crank arms (as compared to the 165) is more compatible with my riding style. Also, I have 29er wheels front and back so the bike is high enough off the ground that pedal strikes are not an issue. (Based on some preliminary measurements, I believe I would be OK with the 170 cranks even if I had the bike set up as a mullet (29 front and 27.5 rear).) Good question on the Burgtec chainring. I have been running Deckas Aluminum chainrings (cheap but the Deckas only last about 200 miles). But I just recently decided to try the steel Burgtec to see if it last long enough to justify the additional cost (I doubt it as the Burgtec was about $40USD and the Deckas rings are about $5USD). I am running a Shimano m5100 derailleur with a 9 speed Box Component shifter (so my drive train is 9 speed). I use KMC chains (9 spd, 10 spd or 11 spd--all work great). Absolutely no issues with the compatibility. The Burgtec chainring fits on the side of the crank spider that is closes to the motor and the Burgtec has treads in the chainring so that I do not have to use separate crank nuts. (The Deckas rings fit the same way, except that I have to use nuts with them.) I hope that I answered your questions. If not or if you have other things that come up, please feel free to ask me more questions. Also, I hope that you are on the Dengfu Frame Ebike Owner's Group on Facebook and that you will be sharing pictures and experiences with your build. I look forward to hearing and seeing how it goes. All the best!

If you go to the burgtec web site under the the chainring section, they have five options to purchase from. Two options are for Sram which I don’t need, however the other three chainring options state either inside or outside fit. Not sure what they meaning? I want to go with the 32 tooth chainring, but I just wanted to make sure that I am purchasing the correct one. I am looking at chainrings meant for e bikes. Could you look at the site and give me your opinion? Thanks for the videos. They have been a great resource and I watch them all.

Good questions. I looked at the Burgtec E-Bike Steel Thick Thin Chanrings. Assuming that you use the Bafang spider and that the spider is the same spider as the one I received about 1.5 years ago, you need a 104 BCD chainring (which is very good thing because about 80% of all mtn spiders use 104 BCD--parts are plentiful). The inside vs outside refers to the slot on the spider that the chainring fits into. "Inside Fit" means that the slot on the spider (where the chainring fits) is "inside" the chainring, that is, the slot is between the spider and the motor. "Outside Fit" means that the slot on the spider is on the outside of the spider, that is, between the spider and the crank arm. My Bafang spider is "inside fit" and, most likely, your spider is the same. The reason that this is a big deal is that the "inside fit" chainring has threads and to tighten the chainring to the spider and therefore you only need bolts (and not nuts). Also, an "inside fit" chainring will only fit correctly on an inside fit" spider; whereas, an "outside fit" chainring will fit on a spider for either (but you will need to use nuts and bolts" on the "outside fit" chainring because it has no threads). Here is a link showing a picture of an "inside fit" spider: enduro-mtb.com/en/ochain-active-spider-review-2020/ Here is a link showing a picture of an "outside fit" spider: bike.bikegremlin.com/8326/chainring-standards/ If you are unsure, you can use the 104BCD 32chainring that comes from Dengfu when you get all the bike and parts (at least it came with mine). The chainring that came with my bike was an "outside fit" with nuts and bolts so i just used it and it lasted about 250 miles. There is nothing wrong with the OEM chainring except that it is aluminum and therefore has a relatively short life. Also, some spiders has attachment places on the inside and outside. Normally, if there are 2 slots, the outside slot is for a chain / bash guard and not the chainring. When the chainring is on the bike and the bike in the middle gear on the cassette, there should be a straight line through the chain between the cassette and the chainring. If not, then there is a problem with the chain-LINE and you need to get that sorted (normally with washers) or the drive components will wear out really quickly. I run a 32T chainring and an 11-42 cassette. I had an 11-46 cassette, but bigger cogs never got used because the motor even on ECO has a lot of torque and it can easily handle the moderately low gear ratio and does not need the 46. Forgive me as I babble on. Let me know what I missed. Cheers!

Oh yea. Thanks for watching all my videos!

BTW, here is a link to my Dengfu e10 build sheet. If you have not seen it, you may find it interesting. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ctxkF3XXIlgQlZ-q7vBbltInIiJ90yGdsLXIyVbbyn0/edit?gid=0#gid=0

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I am sorry to hear about your problem. If you are near either the Atlanta, GA or Charlotte, NC, I will be glad to try and directly help you. Also, I will take a closer look and see what I can come up with to maybe help. Another good source of information is the Dengfu Frame Ebike Owner's Group on Facebook. The moderator of that group and several of its active members have a lot of experience with the e10s. They are very knowledgeable and have creative with fixes. But back to your issue, I really do not like the design of those rear bolts. My DIY bolts are still doing great--no movement. I would consider making a set if someone wanted me to. Anyway, I will get back to you once I look at the OEM bolts and think about how to get off if they locked up. Cheers!

Ok. I looked into your problem using the OEM bolts and my e10. Man, I did not realize how easy it is to have a problem if the bolts seize up. Yikes! I am not sure I know exactly how to resolve this, but I would attempt 2 different approaches. My first pass was to try to find a way to grip the nut and then screw out the bolt. But the chamfer on the nut makes this pretty difficult (another terrible design issue with these nuts and bolts). Because the "flat spots" on the nut are so small and imbedded in the frame, it seems difficult to get a grip on them. But, my first approach would be to lodge something (like a old rag or a paper towel or a piece of plastic) in the hole in the frame where nut is to try and get it to resist the nut enough to allow loosening of the bolt. I would go easy here because I would worry about damaging the frame--and I would resist trying to lodge the nut with something hard. If that was not fruitful, I would drill off the head of the bolt with a 12mm drill bit. To do this, I would first take my dremel power tool and cut a straight line across the back of the nut and bolt. This straight line would allow me to put a screw drive in the gap cut by the dremel to hold the bolt in place when I drill it out. Then I would gently and slowly drill off the head of the bolt. The bolt is aluminum so it should drill off relatively easily. If you need to see pictures, let me know, and I will send you some to help. BTW, you mentioned that the spinning bolt damaged your frame. In my opinion, that is not a big deal as my DIY bolts do not rely on the flat spot to work. With that in mind, just be extra careful not to damage anything else with the bolt removal. Please let me know how you resolve this. If possible, take some pictures and forward them to me and I will make a YT video to help others. Thanks & good luck!

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate your well thought out, detailed comments. I did not understand the importance of greasing these nuts and bolts. I am going to change my process. Again, thank you.

@@boydcombsakaGster you're very welcome!

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I am sure that blue loktite will do a great job holding the nut and bolt together. However, I do not use it on my chainring bolts because it is difficult to get a good grip on the nut. If I were to use loktite, it would be much harder to remove the nut and bolt and may require removing the spider from the crank. Even if I did use loktite, I would put a zip tie through the nut just to make sure that I did not lose the nut and bolt in the event it did come loose. Thanks again.

Thank you for your comments. Regarding your question, as to why I would want to reuse a chainring bolt, I have had the nuts and bolts come loose when I am out riding, and I need to tighten them to be able to get back to the trail head or to be able to keep riding. I am trying to prevent the bolts coming loose, and I then loose them (which has happened to me) out on the trail. Also, if you have a good way to get a grip on the nut while the spider is still on the bike, I would appreciate your sharing that with me. I use the Park CNW-2 tool (wrench), but it is sometimes hard to get sufficient pressure on the nut. In my earlier comment, but I said that locktite "will do a great job holding the nut and bolt together." But using it in this application is just not ideal for me as I described. I appreciate your comments and suggestions; however, I plan to continue making videos. Thank you.

@@boydcombsakaGster I also use the blue locktite but look into the wolftooth chainring bolts. They use allens on the front and the back and are easier to torque to spec and also a lot easier to remove. Good idea with the zip ties though.

Wolffooth chain-ring bolt & blue Loc-Tite for the win

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I appreciate your sharing your experience with locktite and the wolftooth chainring bolts. I am going to look into the wolftooth option. I appreciate the tip.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I will definitely update if Dengfu offers the e82 with a battery compatible with the e10.

@boydcombsakaGster now i am using E22, planning to sell it coz too heavy with M620 motor. Like to buy E82 with m510

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate the positive feedback. I am just a regular guy who likes biking and, in most of my videos, I am trying to pass along something that I learned (normally the hard way) or something that helped me--all from a regular guy's perspective. I am thinking about re-making some of my earlier videos now that I have a bit more knowledge on YT. This one was a pretty early one. I plan to leave it out there, but I hope to do a better one on the same topic this winter (when it is too cold to ride). Sorry to babble, thanks again.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. Here is a link to my build sheet: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ctxkF3XXIlgQlZ-q7vBbltInIiJ90yGdsLXIyVbbyn0/edit?usp=sharing Please let me know if you cannot access it. Also, good luck with your build.

I was able to study it thanks. Question for you, why did you use a 30.9 shim on the seat post tube.? Could you not find a 31.6 mm seatpost? Also, did you have any trouble finding a 31.6 mm seatpost clamp or did you use a 31.8 mm clamp? Any suggestions and tips is appreciated.

Why did I use a 30.9 with a shim? I have several bikes, and some of the bikes use 30.9 posts and some use 31.6. To avoid issues with compatibility, I normally always buy 30.9 (dropper) posts and use a 30.9 to 31.6 shim (also sometimes called an adapter) if I need to run the post in a 31.6 bike. (I also hate (as in really do not like) internally routed dropper post cables, so I almost always re-route the dropper cable to be external...but I digress...sorry.) About once a year, I will have a dropper post that needs to be re-built and having them all at 30.9 makes it much easier to keep up with. Could I not find a 31.6 seat-post? I could have bought a 31.6. I normally use PNW posts, and they almost always have 31.6 posts. In my experience, there is no issue finding 31.6 posts. Did I use a 31.8 clamp? Sorry, but I may not understand this question. I used the seat-post clamp that came with the bike. In my build sheet I show that the stem is 31.8, but this 31.8 stem is referring to the stem connecting the handlebars and fork--not the downtube or the seat-post clamp. Please feel free to follow up on these or other questions. Also, if you are not already a member, I suggest that you join the Dengfu Frame Ebike Owner's Group on Facebook. The moderator and most members of that group are extremely knowledgeable and experienced with the e10. Several people have posted on that group as they have worked through e10 (and similar) builds.

Thank you.

Thank you...made my day! I appreciate your watching my video and commenting.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. Apologies, but I do understand well enough to directly respond to your comment.

Thank you for letting me know.

I am very sorry for the problem. After a bit of detective work (mainly a call to my tech savvy daughter), I believe the issue is that after the introduction, I recorded the video in mono (and not in stereo). So if you are listening to the video in some formats (ear buds for example) the sound changes (and in some cases goes away) when the video goes to mono. I am going to re-edit the video and re-post it with the problem corrected; however, I will not be able to get to it until later. Apologies for the inconvenience. Also, thank you very much for watching the video and for commenting.

Thanks for the comment. I am probably not the best person to ask this question, but I will answer it to the best of my ability. Better people to ask would be Kyle Foulkes on the Facebook group entitled "Dengfu Frame Ebike Owner's Group" or a "top contributor" on the "Bafang M500, M510, M560, M600 and M820 Users Group" (on Facebook). Ok, having said all of that, here is what I believe. The best bikes for the M560 (I am assuming that you know that the motor mounts for the M500, M510, M560, M600 and M820 are the same) with modern bike geometry and regular tires (2.5/2.6 front and 2.3/2.4 rear--not a fat tire bike) are: 1) Dengfu e10, 2) Hybridizer Sann, and 3) EM001 (Dengfu possibly). The e10 is great all around and lots of people have them so much good, timely information. The Hydridizer is relatively new and part of the appeal is its Santa Cruz-like suspension and high pivot (3rd) sprocket. The EM001 has a Horst-like suspension (tried and true) similar to the Trek Rail and this bike is cheaper than some of the other bikes (no idea why)--it takes the same battery as the e10 and some people get this bike to be able to share batteries between the bikes. If you want a long travel bike, the Dengfu e82 is an option (basically an e10 with more travel), but it has a very large battery (that is not compatible with the e10), and I am concerned that that battery will adversely affect the bike. There several Chinese bike representatives that are active on the FB groups who have good track records--Chili Shen and Ella Dengfu are 2 from whom I have had great experiences buying bikes and parts. Good luck. Let me know what you find out and what you decide to do. Cheers.

Dengfu E82

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I am a big fan of Koozer hubs. I have installed them on most of my bikes now and on several of my friends' bikes. Thus far, no major problems. I have upgraded most of the rear hubs with a steel axle shaft, and I plan to do a follow up video showing how to do this and why. The shafts on the newer Koozer's are steel, but most made in 2023 and before had rear aluminum shafts. The steel shafts are readily available on Aliexpress and cost about $10. If you try them, please let me know how it goes. Thanks again.

@@boydcombsakaGster Thank you for the video! Your review made me give these hubs a shot. I love the fact parts seem to be easily available for them and I think with it being a 6 pawl design, it should help distribute the load more equally. Interesting on the steel shafts. I just ordered a XM390 tonight and hoping to lace it into my rim Friday or this weekend. Fingers crossed it comes with the steel shafts cause anything that will make it stronger, I'm all for.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I believe that you are correct. I did not go with the Luna because I wanted to have different components. Thanks again.

Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. Great suggestion, I plan to follow up. Thanks again.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate it.

Thanks! Will do!

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. To get them onto a fork which is fully assembled, I would wrap the rubber band around the fork stanchion and then press together the 2 ends which have the rubber cement on them. In other words, the rubber band is re-connected when it is on the fork stanchion. I hope this helps. Also, apologies for the poor quality of the video. I made it when I was just getting started. I plan to do the video, and in that video I will most likely show it being attached to an assembled fork. Thanks again.

@boydcombsakaGster thank you I founded the video very helpfull! I've just subbed

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I understand where you are coming from. Many of the emtbs and other ebikes that are household names in the USA actually are built by companies like Dengfu in China. The Dengfu e10 is a very popular direct from China emtb which performs extremely well; has great, modern geometry; and can be purchased and built up much more cheaply than most other emtbs (the bike you see in the video was about $4,500 all in). Also, the Dengfu bikes use Bafang motors which are comparable or better than the Shimano, Brose, Bosch motors and, this is a big deal, parts for the Bafang motors are extremely easy to obtain and can be repaired and serviced almost indefinitely. (Not to mention, that the Bafang motors are about 1/2 the price.) If you are interested, look at several of my other videos where I discuss much more about the Dengfu e10. Like you, I was very, very skeptical when I bought it, but I have become a big fan of the bike. Again, thanks for commenting and watching. Cheers.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate it. Also, glad to hear about someone else who knows about Koozer hubs--I really like'm.

Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. I really appreciate it.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I am glad to know that my process is similar to that of others. I really like being able to grease those main bearings! Cheers!

Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. Fat squishing is called fativacation--topic for a different video.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. It has been over 10 years since I used inner tube sealant in an inner tube, so I am probably not up to date with the latest sealant, but, when I did use sealant in an inner tube, it worked OK for about 6 months, but, after that time, the sealant dried in the inner tube as a clump and rendered the inner tube worthless. Regarding the Maxxis anti-puncture tech, I assume they are referring to their EXO (+) or DD (or maybe silkworm which I believe is in all their tires). I have experience with those, but I have never relied on that exclusively to avoid punctures--I have almost always used Stans (with or without Cushcore) or the Tannus Armour. In my experience if you use the Tannus Armour and pump the tire up to at least 25 psi (or more), you have plenty of puncture protection. I would love to hear what you decide to do and what experience you have with whatever you choose. Thanks again.

@boydcombsakaGster Thank you for the reply. I believe I'm going to try the Muc-off first. I've read a lot of good things about the product. If it fails me, I can always go to Tannus Armour. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I appreciate the feedback, and you are correct. This was one of my first videos, and upon reflection it is pretty poorly done. I am going to re-shoot it, and, hopefully, I will eliminate all the camera movement. Thank you again.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. I respect your comments and opinion, but I still like my 840Wh battery for my set up. I hope you are able to eventually get what you want. All the best.

Thank you for viewing my video and for commenting. I agree with you. I hope that Dengfu will listen. Thanks again.

Thanks for you support and encouragement.

Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. It was a shred fest that day for sure.

Glad to see this. I appreciate the feedback!

Don’t worry about it Steve. Canoogas peak male athletic form makes us all self conscious!

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. Dengfu has not responded, but when they do I will update with another video. Thanks again.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. Hopefully we can ride our new 840Wh e82s together on the trail one day soon.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting.

Thank you for the kind words. Don't forget to mark your bolts!

Do you even ride?

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. Great point, I need to add more riding videos.

I have a very detailed build sheet that I will be glad to share with you, but I do not know how to add it to my description to the video. I will see if I can figure out a way to give you access to the file and get back to you. Sorry that I do not know what to do right now.

@@boydcombsakaGster A good old copy paste will work

Here is a link. Please let me know if you can access it. Thanks. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ctxkF3XXIlgQlZ-q7vBbltInIiJ90yGdsLXIyVbbyn0/edit?usp=sharing

@@boydcombsakaGster Yes...I can open the sheet...thank you so much!

Thanks for watching my video and for commenting. I agree that they had some debris on them. I took the picture after I had ridden the bike and after the grease was put on. I believe that I got some dirt on them as I was getting them ready to take the pictures and the grease really made it look extra dirty. But I agree with you the contacts in the pictures are filthy. Thanks again.

Thank you for watching my video and for commenting. Regarding the axle, subsequent making the video, I found and purchased an axle with the existing thread pitch that is removed using a 6mm hex key. This new axle works great and completely eliminated the axle issue. As to tuning, I have not tuned the bike motor at all. When I purchased the bike, I had it set up for a 29er rear wheel, and for class 1 status (in U.S. that means no throttle and limited to 20 mph). I did buy the Bafang BESST tool, but I have not used it to change anything on the motor. Glad to hear about your BBSHD. I see a lot about them on the internet, and, with all the press, they must be really great motors. Cheers.