If it didn't run well, it wasn't taken care of or maintained properly. These used some of the best ignition components there were! They also used some of the same carburetors that all the others used! Dirty fuel systems and neglected maintenance will affect the theory of 2-stroke operations on any outboard motor.
Parts cannon is right! I would make sure the spark plugs (cheap) are actually in working order before going after other ignition system components. Good luck. Subscribed.
Nice Catch! Thanks Jeff, I actually bought two new Champion H-10C at Advance Auto Parts for $6/each and tested those before and after I cleaned the points and did record it. Unfortunately, my editing skills are subpar so I cut those shots out lol.
That same motor was sold by Seas in the 60s(?). Did a rebuild, but it did not improve anything. I want to see how you get the carb without pulling the whole power head ! I had to drill a hole in the case to get to one screw !
Standby, I already filmed the carb removal and will be posting soon, spoiler alert… it is a nightmare of parts everywhere and hopefully I can put this darn thing back together!!!
you need a spark gap tester, not a noid light. set gap to 3/8 , it should jump the gap, if not the plug will not fire under compression when installed. coils, points, plugs , plug wires, change the lot unless they look recent.
I would change the impeller on any old outboard, They don't age well and you don't know how the PO treated that motor. I was taught to not even crank a motor over unless it was in water. It may appear to pump OK, but it may not be getting enough flow to cool properly. You should check the head and block mating surfaces for flatness. A blown head gasket is often a symptom of a warped head. It's usually a result of being run wide open before the engine had a chance to warm up. On old 2 strokes, spray some fogging oil through the carb so that the crankcase bearings and seals get some lubrication before you start cranking.
Thank you so much. Awesome advice for everyone to consider. The world of impellers is strange as I have found some Evinrudes for like $10 and then for the fishing scott they are like $75 but some folks talk about retrofitting a Honda impeller with a different sleeve, not even sure what that means yet. On the block and head flatness, I took your advice last night and did the best I could using a piece of milled aluminum and a feeler gauge (watched a video). As far as I can tell they are flat and the closer I look at the old gasket, it never really blew out, it is just super old and crusty and when I took the head off it sorted flaked apart a little. Fogging oil through the carb before cranking is a great idea, I hadn’t thought of that. Keep those comments coming, I just got 3x more effective hahahah… 3 x “a little” is not much but I will take it!
@@partscannongarage Another thing to do is pull the prop off and make certain theres no fishing line or other crap that could cut the seal and that its got a proper shear pin and not a nail or something else in it's place. Change the lower unit oil, checking for water. A bad lower unit will scrap an old outboard more quickly than any engine trouble.
@@dondondon5695 more good advice, thank you… I did plan on changing the gear oil but I was going to do that at the end, sounds like it might be smarter to do it near the beginning… also, and you won’t believe this but I just went out and checked and “Scotty” has a freakin nail holding the prop on, a big framing nail lol… I will try to get it on video for Part 3b, the next “Scotty” update, unreal!
I like your Parts Cannon Garage hat. Will be keeping an eye out for any upcoming channel merch :-)
hahaha, what’s up man, thanks for watching, working on merch lol
I like your channel 😊 I have 1 small question I got a 1962 7/5. Scott Mcclloch the throttle handle won't turn
Any Ideas 😊 thank you
When they ran they ran well.
Somehow missed this comment, thank you for watching Victor!
If it didn't run well, it wasn't taken care of or maintained properly. These used some of the best ignition components there were! They also used some of the same carburetors that all the others used! Dirty fuel systems and neglected maintenance will affect the theory of 2-stroke operations on any outboard motor.
I like your channel
Thank you very much Thomas, I appreciate that
Parts cannon is right! I would make sure the spark plugs (cheap) are actually in working order before going after other ignition system components. Good luck. Subscribed.
Nice Catch! Thanks Jeff, I actually bought two new Champion H-10C at Advance Auto Parts for $6/each and tested those before and after I cleaned the points and did record it. Unfortunately, my editing skills are subpar so I cut those shots out lol.
That same motor was sold by Seas in the 60s(?). Did a rebuild, but it did not improve anything. I want to see how you get the carb without pulling the whole power head ! I had to drill a hole in the case to get to one screw !
Standby, I already filmed the carb removal and will be posting soon, spoiler alert… it is a nightmare of parts everywhere and hopefully I can put this darn thing back together!!!
you need a spark gap tester, not a noid light.
set gap to 3/8 , it should jump the gap, if not the plug will not fire under compression when installed.
coils, points, plugs , plug wires, change the lot unless they look recent.
ok, ordered one, was cheap, thanks for the tip and thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate it.
I would change the impeller on any old outboard, They don't age well and you don't know how the PO treated that motor.
I was taught to not even crank a motor over unless it was in water. It may appear to pump OK, but it may not be getting enough flow to cool properly.
You should check the head and block mating surfaces for flatness. A blown head gasket is often a symptom of a warped head. It's usually a result of being run wide open before the engine had a chance to warm up.
On old 2 strokes, spray some fogging oil through the carb so that the crankcase bearings and seals get some lubrication before you start cranking.
Thank you so much. Awesome advice for everyone to consider. The world of impellers is strange as I have found some Evinrudes for like $10 and then for the fishing scott they are like $75 but some folks talk about retrofitting a Honda impeller with a different sleeve, not even sure what that means yet. On the block and head flatness, I took your advice last night and did the best I could using a piece of milled aluminum and a feeler gauge (watched a video). As far as I can tell they are flat and the closer I look at the old gasket, it never really blew out, it is just super old and crusty and when I took the head off it sorted flaked apart a little. Fogging oil through the carb before cranking is a great idea, I hadn’t thought of that. Keep those comments coming, I just got 3x more effective hahahah… 3 x “a little” is not much but I will take it!
@@partscannongarage Another thing to do is pull the prop off and make certain theres no fishing line or other crap that could cut the seal and that its got a proper shear pin and not a nail or something else in it's place.
Change the lower unit oil, checking for water. A bad lower unit will scrap an old outboard more quickly than any engine trouble.
@@dondondon5695 more good advice, thank you… I did plan on changing the gear oil but I was going to do that at the end, sounds like it might be smarter to do it near the beginning… also, and you won’t believe this but I just went out and checked and “Scotty” has a freakin nail holding the prop on, a big framing nail lol… I will try to get it on video for Part 3b, the next “Scotty” update, unreal!
USE MY INTRO✨✨✨✨
you got it