I have just started watching and not fully seen the video but coming from your old videos I am pretty much sure that you are gonna nail this one! Please do not stop creating, your work gives inspiration internationally. Love from Turkey ♡.
To my surprise it was not the most complicated. You need to be thorough but otherwise it is a relatively easy one. As I said in my video: don’t hesitate to do it. You’ll have fun and that’s what is the most important. And one other thing, later if you don’t like anymore what you did, you just have to redo it ;)
I'm working on moving up to painting GKs, but one thing I noticed in watching you paint eyes is your paint is too thick. Better to apply multiple thin coats to get a very smooth finish at the end than apply one thick coat that adds texture to the end. This will also help make things like eyelashes easier - thin paint tends to flow of the brush easier as well, making quick purposeful lines easier to do. The other alternative is masking and airbrushing.
Thank you for the tip! I already thinned my paint from my previous work but completely agree with you. Plus it is very long to dry. I’ll try to thin even more on my new project
Iirc, Bome did two versions of this kit. The GK one had floating hair, the one with the hair down was a limited edition porcelain cast. The recasted version of the kit, which was popularised further by e2046's workshop, uses the porcelain cast. At one point they had a version that featured the floating hair as extra parts, but i think they removed them to make the assembly easier for beginners(the connection pegs were drastically different, they needed advanced prep work to be assembled properly).
Hello, I have a couple of questions for you: Please tell me how you can print a figure in a completely disassembled form (what does it depend on), I bought resin figures, they were disassembled, but not like in your video. I am new to this hobby and for me the more the figure is disassembled the better. Maybe you need to look for some special files for printing and use them to buy figures? And the second question, tell me, do you use some kind of special Vaseline, or will any one do?
Sorry I missed your comment. Actually most of the kits you buy online to print yourself are not well disassembled. The people who are doing it usually don’t know enough about it - sorry to say that but it is true - and it can be super tricky to paint them. There are several possibilities: either you ask the artist to review of it is disassembled and give him hints where to split the pieces, or you asked for the original file and do yourself - but I doubt you will have enough it - or you print as is and you do your best. You are right when you say the more pieces the better. It helps to not struggle masking and having better paint. But you will see, the more you practice the better you’ll be masking and managing 1 single blocks :)
@@amagonrosh-gk Thank you very much for your detailed story, I enjoyed reading what you wrote and drew conclusions. There is one more question left for you, please tell me what kind of varnish should be applied after painting? Thank you so much again
@user-du2nt1mi5r it really depends on what type of finish you want too… I mostly use Mr hobby super clear UV cut for both flat and gloss. It helps to protect the paint from UV and keep the colors for way longer than with normal varnish. Now flat is helping to remove any reflection of light and gives a better finish for my point of view - especially for skin, cloth, etc… Gloss will give a finish super shiny. You can use it more for latex cloth, metal, silk… As I said it really depends what is the results you want to give.
@@amagonrosh-gk Thank you very much for your great help, advice and recommendations. I found a varnish (I saw it in a spray can) please tell me, it is available in matte and glossy, which one is better to buy?
As I was saying in my previous comment it really depends on the effect you want to give. If you have to choose, at the beginning mat is the varnish you’ll need the most. So go with that one
Not sure I get 100% of your question. What I understood is you ask what could be the length of the rod when pinning? That’s a very good question. It depends on the size of the kit I would say. For 1/6 scale I usually do between 5/8mm. It doesn’t help to do longer. For a 1/8 and more I can go up to 1cm(?)
You don’t have to start with an airbrush at all! Depending the size of the kit you can work with paint brush. It won’t be as good as with an airbrush but it is fine when you begin! If you want to start airbrushing go with a 0.5mm or a 0.3mm needle. You can find very affordable airbrush kit on Amazon - airbrush + mini compressor.
I realized I didn’t put it in the description! I will add it. The tool is from funtec CS-PT Kikugi series carbide scraper (plastic model tool). This is only the head. You also need to buy a holder. I bought it on Amazon.
I have just started watching and not fully seen the video but coming from your old videos I am pretty much sure that you are gonna nail this one! Please do not stop creating, your work gives inspiration internationally. Love from Turkey ♡.
Thank you 🥹! I am getting better and better. Not only working on garage kit but also editing my videos 😅. Better equipment and more skills
she came out beautiful! awesome work as always! also i understand huffing that polyester putty smell too lol can’t get enough
Amazing! I got an airbrush as a gift and I want to use it on my cold porcelain figurines. Thanks for this fantastic video.
Beautyful work 👍
Amazing!! I have this kit waiting on me but im a little nervous about starting it haha
To my surprise it was not the most complicated. You need to be thorough but otherwise it is a relatively easy one. As I said in my video: don’t hesitate to do it. You’ll have fun and that’s what is the most important. And one other thing, later if you don’t like anymore what you did, you just have to redo it ;)
@@amagonrosh-gk Im glad you told me that! Thank you :D Now im more ready to give it a go!
Don’t hesitate to show us the results!!!! And if you need any help let me know ;)
@@amagonrosh-gk You're the best!!
Stunning work!
I'm working on moving up to painting GKs, but one thing I noticed in watching you paint eyes is your paint is too thick. Better to apply multiple thin coats to get a very smooth finish at the end than apply one thick coat that adds texture to the end. This will also help make things like eyelashes easier - thin paint tends to flow of the brush easier as well, making quick purposeful lines easier to do.
The other alternative is masking and airbrushing.
Thank you for the tip! I already thinned my paint from my previous work but completely agree with you. Plus it is very long to dry. I’ll try to thin even more on my new project
Iirc, Bome did two versions of this kit. The GK one had floating hair, the one with the hair down was a limited edition porcelain cast. The recasted version of the kit, which was popularised further by e2046's workshop, uses the porcelain cast.
At one point they had a version that featured the floating hair as extra parts, but i think they removed them to make the assembly easier for beginners(the connection pegs were drastically different, they needed advanced prep work to be assembled properly).
Thank you for letting me know! I understand better why the kit I saw with the hair down is so expensive 😅
you did such a great job on this! instant sub!
Super Sailor Moon was a real pleasure to work on! And it is the one I customize the most so far. And thank you for following me ❤️
I really enjoy ur videos 💖🌙
Thank you for your message! Give me more energy to continue ❤️
this looks amazing!!! :D
I will say that initially hair color might work well for Haruka
Yes exactly!
For small parts recommend ULTRA-FINE DIAMOND FILE 0.5 square or round by Sujibori Do
Thank you for the tip! I’ll look at it
Hello, I have a couple of questions for you: Please tell me how you can print a figure in a completely disassembled form (what does it depend on), I bought resin figures, they were disassembled, but not like in your video. I am new to this hobby and for me the more the figure is disassembled the better. Maybe you need to look for some special files for printing and use them to buy figures? And the second question, tell me, do you use some kind of special Vaseline, or will any one do?
Sorry I missed your comment. Actually most of the kits you buy online to print yourself are not well disassembled. The people who are doing it usually don’t know enough about it - sorry to say that but it is true - and it can be super tricky to paint them.
There are several possibilities: either you ask the artist to review of it is disassembled and give him hints where to split the pieces, or you asked for the original file and do yourself - but I doubt you will have enough it - or you print as is and you do your best.
You are right when you say the more pieces the better. It helps to not struggle masking and having better paint. But you will see, the more you practice the better you’ll be masking and managing 1 single blocks :)
@@amagonrosh-gk Thank you very much for your detailed story, I enjoyed reading what you wrote and drew conclusions. There is one more question left for you, please tell me what kind of varnish should be applied after painting? Thank you so much again
@user-du2nt1mi5r it really depends on what type of finish you want too… I mostly use Mr hobby super clear UV cut for both flat and gloss.
It helps to protect the paint from UV and keep the colors for way longer than with normal varnish.
Now flat is helping to remove any reflection of light and gives a better finish for my point of view - especially for skin, cloth, etc…
Gloss will give a finish super shiny. You can use it more for latex cloth, metal, silk…
As I said it really depends what is the results you want to give.
@@amagonrosh-gk Thank you very much for your great help, advice and recommendations. I found a varnish (I saw it in a spray can) please tell me, it is available in matte and glossy, which one is better to buy?
As I was saying in my previous comment it really depends on the effect you want to give. If you have to choose, at the beginning mat is the varnish you’ll need the most. So go with that one
How do you where to cut the metal when creating new pegs? Do you have a recommend length?
Not sure I get 100% of your question. What I understood is you ask what could be the length of the rod when pinning?
That’s a very good question. It depends on the size of the kit I would say. For 1/6 scale I usually do between 5/8mm. It doesn’t help to do longer. For a 1/8 and more I can go up to 1cm(?)
Do I need more than one airbrush to get into this hobby? :o
You don’t have to start with an airbrush at all! Depending the size of the kit you can work with paint brush. It won’t be as good as with an airbrush but it is fine when you begin!
If you want to start airbrushing go with a 0.5mm or a 0.3mm needle. You can find very affordable airbrush kit on Amazon - airbrush + mini compressor.
Where did you get the scraper, or what is the name of it?
I realized I didn’t put it in the description! I will add it. The tool is from funtec CS-PT Kikugi series carbide scraper (plastic model tool). This is only the head. You also need to buy a holder. I bought it on Amazon.