OMG, FINALLY !! I've watched half a dozen videos that make this entire process sound completely convoluted by blabbing on about useless stuff and math when what you really need is to understand the logic to be able to execute this. Thank you for explaing this so clearly!!
Speaking for myself, the reason I could understand your tutorial (and not all the others I've seen!) is that you started out with a FBA without the dart, which I can do. Then you added the dart, which I haven't been able to do. There's something in my brain that just latches on to this. Thank you many times over!
This is an amazing video - you've made complexity into clarity! and in the meantime demonstrated underlying principles of patternmaking. Thanks so much for your generosity.
That was a lot easier then other articles and videos I’ve tried having it on your blog as well as a TH-cam video made it so much easier to follow for someone whose starting out in sewing but has never taken any classes!
a lot of videos, including this one are about dart position manipulations, but if i just want to add waist dart (like your second one), without first have done the side seam dart, how to do that?
So helpful and and the confusion 😕 is all gone but,my question is the space above dart will it affect bodice 2-are both darts not used on this particular pattern
thanks for this video! there is a point I am not clear about... at 5:10-5:20 you move the apex and I don't understand why, and what by that amount... surely the position of you Apex remains the same relative to shoulder and centerpioint? Could you (or someone!!) explain why? I'm confused...
Hi Ruth, thank you so much für your videos! This is the first time for me that all these strange looking store bought patterns make sence as to why they in the end fit ;) I would really love if you'd make a tutorial on how to draw the bodice from scratch - I have found other videos about this, but with you explaining things, It's just a lot easier to unterstand :)
Hi there! Thanks so much! I have a REALLY old video about it how to do it more simply, but..I plan to re-record the video soon. So, make sure to stay tuned. In the meantime, here is the old tutorial isntthatsew.org/custom-bodice-block-pattern/ ...Also, there is a free workshop you can register for to learn about making a knit top itsfashionschool.com/course-directory/
Thank you so much! What other kinds of videos would you like to see? Have a technique you want to learn? Or a certain style you wish to create? Let me know!
Hello Its really wonderful video but i have a doubt that when you adjust bust , waist length and width are changed, you did not made any adjustment in waist width. Means didn't add a waist dart, how to manage waist width ? can you please reply?
I've been too much of a coward to attempt sewing anything with a top capable of handling the DD girls. Hate it. I've been watching as many tutorials as I can get my hands on, and each one helps me in a different way. So thank you so much, isntthatsew! Question, though ... is the purpose of inserting a dart here or there just to take the 'boxy' out of something so that it's more fitted and flattering? I seriously need to study up on darts and fitting, period. Thank you!
Hi Megan, If you check out the blog post, there is another method I show briefly in the post. That can be used for both front and back bodice. isntthatsew.org/add-a-dart/
I haven't done the video yet on Princess seam...I know I talk about it one of the videos though! It's really easy! So, like you asked in your other comment....you can use your two dart bodice...or even a no dart bodice. You'll just draw in your shaping and separate the pattern. isntthatsew.org/princess-seams/
i think after the dart triangle has been created, the new pattern should have that opening area filled right? you cannot leave it open like that when cutting the fabric.
What if I want to make bust dart and waist dart together? I'm wanting to make princess seam and all tutorials show existing bodice already with the two darts
Great guide. I need to add bust darts to a long sleeve jersey top, but how wide does a dart need to be? I hope there is an easy way to work this out. :)
But you wouldn't do that until after all the slash and pivot is complete. Then you could just redraw the legs of the dart, moving the apex out from the apex of the actual bust.
Hi there. I really appreciate this lesson. Could you please help clarify something for me. I understand how to draw a basic sloper with ease, and seam allowance. Everyone say's that a flat pattern will fit a B Cup, so I know that I will need to do a full bust adjustment to this bodice, with ease already built in, and that will change the length of my side seam. I know this sounds silly... My confusion, will I loose the ease built to the bodice when I add a dart? Do I need to add any extra width to my pattern for a dart or is this all taken care of by adding length/depth? Thanks so very much. I just can't wrap my head around this shift!
lol I thought I'd done such a good job and when it was all finished and i pinned it to my manequin, i realised i'd put the dart on the centre seam....which, in my defence had a rounded v neck. every time i sew i get it wrong. i'm such a dodo. but loved your tutorial... back to the drawing board.
Didnt help me, im afraid. Why is the bottom of the dart never a straight line like the base of a triangle? How do we know how to draw the non flat lines of the base of the triangle and the lengths ... ? Sorry. No one seems to explain that. Darts give me the run around :(
the reason it's never a straight line is to account for the fabric that gets folded in the dart. when you cut in a straight line at the base, it ends up taking more fabric away than you're supposed to. when the dart gets folded over, it pulls the fabric up on one side, making the base of the dart uneven if it is cut using just a straight line. one side of the dart's base will be higher/lower than the other side of the dart. the way to draw the non flat lines is by folding the dart and connecting the lines that are next to the dart at the bottom of the bodice while that dart is folded over fold the dart to one side, connect the draw a line connecting to the bottom bodice line. then fold the dart to the other side and do the same thing. hopefully that made sense!
ADDING A DART..... RESPECTED MADAM INSTRUCTOR, LIKED YR VIDEO AND I FIND IT IS QUITE USEFUL.. EVEN CREATING A DART ON TO A DARTLESS ONE BY SPREAD TECHNIQUE IS NT EASY AS SPREADING IS NT EASY AS WE IMAGINE. IN THIS RESPECT YR METHOD SOLVES THE PROBLE THANKS. I HAVE TWO QUESTIONS ON DART FOR WHICH I DONT FIND ANSWER ANYWHERE. 1) DARTS ARE CREATED ON VARIOUS AREAS LIKE SIDE DART, FRENCH DART, WAIST DART, SHOULDER DART AND ARM HOLE CURVATURE DARTS. MY QUESTION IS ON WHAT BASIS, THE " DIMESION OF THE DART BASE" ARE CHOSEN? AND HOW TO CHOOSE? 2) INVARIABLY MOST OF THE INNUMERABLE VIDEOS I HAVE SEARCHED AND WATCHED THE DARTS ARE DRAWN AND THE SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE ADDED TO IT. AND THAT IS THE END TELLING THE VIEWER TO CUT THE CLOTH USING THE DIAGRAM. IS THIS RIGHT OR IS THERE MISSING GAPS? 3) WHEN A DART IS THERE , LET US SAY ON ARM CURVATURE, HOW TO EXTEND THE CURVATURE? I WILL BE GREATFUL IF YOU CAN GUIDEIN THE ABOVE CASES. VATSA INDIA
Hello, I'm wanting to know how I can add both a waist and a bust dart into a pattern? At the point where you pivot the pattern with the awl, should I be doing this if I want both darts? could you please explain?
Sorry about that..I think i left the wrong link. You'd be better off drafting a proper bodice with both darts....it will be more EXACT. I'd recommend getting book (like this one --> amzn.to/2td9EGs ((affiliate link)). It has nice step by step tutorials on how to do almost everything. It's a lot to take in..and a lot to just explain. . . .So, I highly recommend checking that out..... However, if you wanted to do it the quick and dirty way and possible have a bit of trial and error, you could try the following... If you drafted a fitted bodice (like the one from my site, that is meant to be a knit bodice) take that bodice (make sure to add ease for woven fabric) then, draw the darts in place where you want them.. Basically, they will come from the bust point, but be shifted away from the bust point (maybe about 1"), as you don't want to create a triangle shape to your bodice.....then, measure the width of the dart and swing out the side seam the same distance and repeat the same process with the side seam dart. Then, bend and true all of your lines. That may or may not work as well as drafting a two dart bodice from scratch, and like I said..may require a few muslins to get the fit just right..... As for the width of the dart, depends on the size of your bust.
Hi, I m French and your vidéo is very important for me, but i dont understand 1 thing, and the subtitles are not very good. At 0:44, what is the point that you draw, it's the point to the armhole's hight point to what ? The subtitles say "apec". Excuse me for my English but thanks u :))
IsntthatSew I would spilt the waist dart into two and the pivot one to the side or shoulder or where ever I want it to be thus making the original waist dart smaller. Pls could you explain how I would split the waist dart. Thank you
I'm a bit confused. when you say 1" dart - that is scaling it to fit your small pattern but for a standard pattern - determing cup size dart - where would that factor in. I'm a D cup....... when you rotate the cut section - do you rotate it to blend with the existing armhole seam as closely as you can?
Yes, correct. The size of the dart will change depending on the cup size. If you're a D cup, I'd add another 3/4" to 1". . . When you rotate it, yes...you will blend the side seam line if you're moving the dart somewhere else. Essentially, when you rotate...you're just closing the dart to move it somewhere else...You'll always blend and true the lines.
I want to add the dart to a button front shirt. it's a basic KwikSew pattern and it fits fine, but has no shape. I have to lengthen all of my tops 3" and sometimes more so the pattern I did buy that had a dart - (not kwiksew) had a dart, but it was an interior dart and I couldn't figure out how to add the length to the bottom using their l/s line that didn't interfere with that particular style dart. so back to my KwikSew but it needs a dart. either a side dart or perhaps even a french dart, but not quite sure how to do that (french dart) on such a long section of the blouse........ thank you for responding. I'm hoping to find one GOOD button front shirt pattern that I can continue using without always having to alter it somehow......LOL
no - I would consider my self a partly advanced NOVICE......I try - but I tend to overthing everything and end up getting nothing accomplished. I have the surefit designs kit for dresses which would aid in doing that and even that is a tad beyond me...........While I can excel at lots of things, sewing just not come naturally to me as it does to some............I"m not sure why,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
OMG, FINALLY !! I've watched half a dozen videos that make this entire process sound completely convoluted by blabbing on about useless stuff and math when what you really need is to understand the logic to be able to execute this. Thank you for explaing this so clearly!!
Speaking for myself, the reason I could understand your tutorial (and not all the others I've seen!) is that you started out with a FBA without the dart, which I can do. Then you added the dart, which I haven't been able to do. There's something in my brain that just latches on to this. Thank you many times over!
This is the most straightforward explanation I've ever seen. Thank you!
Brilliant! Finally someone has solved my problem. Now I know how to copy a favourite top I wear that has a dart. Thank you!
I was trying to copy a dart from ready to wear and your video was so helpful. Thank you!!!
This is an amazing video - you've made complexity into clarity! and in the meantime demonstrated underlying principles of patternmaking. Thanks so much for your generosity.
Thank you so much for your kind words! I truly appreciate them! And you are so welcome!
I can't thank you enough for this video. It was so easy to follow along. You explained things so well! Thank you!
Thank you so much for the amazing video! It was so easy to follow along and easy to understand! Darts were my nightmare, not anymore! 😊🥰❤🌸
That was a lot easier then other articles and videos I’ve tried having it on your blog as well as a TH-cam video made it so much easier to follow for someone whose starting out in sewing but has never taken any classes!
I love your videos! After the Holidays are over I will be buying your books. You have a nice voice.
Just what I was looking for. Clearly demonstrated and explained. Thank you.
a lot of videos, including this one are about dart position manipulations, but if i just want to add waist dart (like your second one), without first have done the side seam dart, how to do that?
This was really useful ☺Thanks 😚 Can u plz share those formulas for different cup sizes also clear the cup measurements also.☺
Wow thank you so much! Will use this technique and so easy to change to waist dart! 😊
could u put up the formulas for the different cup sizes in order to make a bust dart?
Been through so many FBAs - but yours is the first to sink in and make sense. Thank you!
Oh my goodness! Thanks so much! Glad that I can help. . Let me know if you have any more questions.
I look far and low for a video that was easy to understand, thank you 😊 I found it. And it worked,
Thank you. Explained so simply and clearly.
This was so helpful! I’m altering a unisex shirt pattern cause I like the plain collar but I def need darts!
So helpful and and the confusion 😕 is all gone but,my question is the space above dart will it affect bodice
2-are both darts not used on this particular pattern
thanks for this video! there is a point I am not clear about... at 5:10-5:20 you move the apex and I don't understand why, and what by that amount... surely the position of you Apex remains the same relative to shoulder and centerpioint? Could you (or someone!!) explain why? I'm confused...
Very, very useful! Thanks for sharing.
I love your tutorials, they are so helpful.
Thanks Audrey, I REALLY appreciate the kind words!
Hi Ruth, thank you so much für your videos! This is the first time for me that all these strange looking store bought patterns make sence as to why they in the end fit ;) I would really love if you'd make a tutorial on how to draw the bodice from scratch - I have found other videos about this, but with you explaining things, It's just a lot easier to unterstand :)
Hi there! Thanks so much! I have a REALLY old video about it how to do it more simply, but..I plan to re-record the video soon. So, make sure to stay tuned. In the meantime, here is the old tutorial isntthatsew.org/custom-bodice-block-pattern/ ...Also, there is a free workshop you can register for to learn about making a knit top itsfashionschool.com/course-directory/
what happens with the back block then? If you lengthen the front bodice the center back won't be as long when you take the bust dart back out again
Good evening I'm new to your channel, and thank you for this video. Just a question what is an a apex
Thank you!!! But does it make difference if the bodice style is fitted or loose? The same technique works?
thank you so much for helping out! this was super handy !
You're so welcome!
Wow, love the way you explain. Hope too see more videos from you.
Thanks :)
Thank you so much! What other kinds of videos would you like to see? Have a technique you want to learn? Or a certain style you wish to create? Let me know!
Hello Its really wonderful video but i have a doubt that when you adjust bust , waist length and width are changed, you did not made any adjustment in waist width. Means didn't add a waist dart, how to manage waist width ? can you please reply?
Thank you so much i saw so many video but i could only understand yours
I've been too much of a coward to attempt sewing anything with a top capable of handling the DD girls. Hate it. I've been watching as many tutorials as I can get my hands on, and each one helps me in a different way. So thank you so much, isntthatsew! Question, though ... is the purpose of inserting a dart here or there just to take the 'boxy' out of something so that it's more fitted and flattering? I seriously need to study up on darts and fitting, period. Thank you!
Do you have a video for the back bodice? Also do you have one for creating a princess line? Thanks :)
Hi Megan,
If you check out the blog post, there is another method I show briefly in the post. That can be used for both front and back bodice. isntthatsew.org/add-a-dart/
I haven't done the video yet on Princess seam...I know I talk about it one of the videos though! It's really easy! So, like you asked in your other comment....you can use your two dart bodice...or even a no dart bodice. You'll just draw in your shaping and separate the pattern. isntthatsew.org/princess-seams/
Thank you for the walk-through! I couldn't find my notes from a pattern-making class years ago and your demonstration brought it all back.
Awesome!
Just a quick question; would you leave your back panel as it is or alter it in any way, please?
Thank you, now I can move forward with fitting my shirt pattern.
Excellent!
Very clearly explained, thank you
You're welcome!
I m from India and its very useful information
Thaqqqqq
This was so helpful! Thank you so much!!
Increases volume at waist is not adjusted, request u pls explaine the reason
i think after the dart triangle has been created, the new pattern should have that opening area filled right? you cannot leave it open like that when cutting the fabric.
where can i find more info on how big my dart needs to be?
What if I want to make bust dart and waist dart together? I'm wanting to make princess seam and all tutorials show existing bodice already with the two darts
Awesome video
Great guide. I need to add bust darts to a long sleeve jersey top, but how wide does a dart need to be? I hope there is an easy way to work this out. :)
The bigger the bust, the larger the dart. :)
THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR INFOR. NEEDED IT B-BAD
very helpful, thank you so much!
This is useful when copying a garment with a bust dart.
And what if we want both waist and bust dart?
Very clear! Thank you!!
You're so welcome!
Can you please show us how to add 2 darts as the basis for a french dart?
just remember to lower the waist dart 1/2" or so from the apex to avoid the bullet look
But you wouldn't do that until after all the slash and pivot is complete.
Then you could just redraw the legs of the dart, moving the apex out from the apex of the actual bust.
So helpful thanks!
Sure thing!
Hi there. I really appreciate this lesson. Could you please help clarify something for me.
I understand how to draw a basic sloper with ease, and seam allowance. Everyone say's that a flat pattern will fit a B Cup, so I know that I will need to do a full bust adjustment to this bodice, with ease already built in, and that will change the length of my side seam.
I know this sounds silly...
My confusion, will I loose the ease built to the bodice when I add a dart? Do I need to add any extra width to my pattern for a dart or is this all taken care of by adding length/depth?
Thanks so very much. I just can't wrap my head around this shift!
lol I thought I'd done such a good job and when it was all finished and i pinned it to my manequin, i realised i'd put the dart on the centre seam....which, in my defence had a rounded v neck. every time i sew i get it wrong. i'm such a dodo. but loved your tutorial... back to the drawing board.
Thank you very much very helpful
May I know how to add dart to back bodice?
wow super, I subscribe and like your video, thank you
Thank you!
Thank you
Thx, I will try
So cool!
How do you find the apex?
If it isn't marked on your pattern, you need to measure your body to find location.
Thank you so much
Didnt help me, im afraid. Why is the bottom of the dart never a straight line like the base of a triangle? How do we know how to draw the non flat lines of the base of the triangle and the lengths ... ? Sorry. No one seems to explain that. Darts give me the run around :(
the reason it's never a straight line is to account for the fabric that gets folded in the dart. when you cut in a straight line at the base, it ends up taking more fabric away than you're supposed to. when the dart gets folded over, it pulls the fabric up on one side, making the base of the dart uneven if it is cut using just a straight line. one side of the dart's base will be higher/lower than the other side of the dart. the way to draw the non flat lines is by folding the dart and connecting the lines that are next to the dart at the bottom of the bodice while that dart is folded over fold the dart to one side, connect the draw a line connecting to the bottom bodice line. then fold the dart to the other side and do the same thing. hopefully that made sense!
ADDING A DART.....
RESPECTED MADAM INSTRUCTOR,
LIKED YR VIDEO AND I FIND IT IS QUITE USEFUL..
EVEN CREATING A DART ON TO A DARTLESS ONE BY SPREAD TECHNIQUE IS NT EASY AS SPREADING IS NT EASY AS WE IMAGINE.
IN THIS RESPECT YR METHOD SOLVES THE PROBLE THANKS.
I HAVE TWO QUESTIONS ON DART FOR WHICH I DONT FIND ANSWER ANYWHERE.
1) DARTS ARE CREATED ON VARIOUS AREAS LIKE SIDE DART, FRENCH DART, WAIST DART, SHOULDER DART AND ARM HOLE CURVATURE DARTS.
MY QUESTION IS ON WHAT BASIS, THE " DIMESION OF THE DART BASE" ARE CHOSEN? AND HOW TO CHOOSE?
2) INVARIABLY MOST OF THE INNUMERABLE VIDEOS I HAVE SEARCHED AND WATCHED THE DARTS ARE DRAWN AND THE SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE ADDED TO IT. AND THAT IS THE END TELLING THE VIEWER TO CUT THE CLOTH USING THE DIAGRAM.
IS THIS RIGHT OR IS THERE MISSING GAPS?
3) WHEN A DART IS THERE , LET US SAY ON ARM CURVATURE, HOW TO EXTEND THE CURVATURE?
I WILL BE GREATFUL IF YOU CAN GUIDEIN THE ABOVE CASES.
VATSA INDIA
Very clear explanation, going to have a go at cloning a dress I have with a bust dart. Thank you!
Wait but what IS the formula for bust adjustment? Bit useless if I dont know which measurements to use 🤨
Hello, I'm wanting to know how I can add both a waist and a bust dart into a pattern? At the point where you pivot the pattern with the awl, should I be doing this if I want both darts? could you please explain?
Hi there, check out this article. It explains it perfectly! thecuttingclass.com/post/3702837969/dart-clusters-viktor-and-rolf
IsntthatSew the article shows how to make cluster darts. But how do we add just the waist and bust dart?
yes! that was exactly what I mean by my question!
Sorry about that..I think i left the wrong link. You'd be better off drafting a proper bodice with both darts....it will be more EXACT. I'd recommend getting book (like this one --> amzn.to/2td9EGs ((affiliate link)). It has nice step by step tutorials on how to do almost everything. It's a lot to take in..and a lot to just explain. . . .So, I highly recommend checking that out.....
However, if you wanted to do it the quick and dirty way and possible have a bit of trial and error, you could try the following...
If you drafted a fitted bodice (like the one from my site, that is meant to be a knit bodice) take that bodice (make sure to add ease for woven fabric) then, draw the darts in place where you want them.. Basically, they will come from the bust point, but be shifted away from the bust point (maybe about 1"), as you don't want to create a triangle shape to your bodice.....then, measure the width of the dart and swing out the side seam the same distance and repeat the same process with the side seam dart. Then, bend and true all of your lines.
That may or may not work as well as drafting a two dart bodice from scratch, and like I said..may require a few muslins to get the fit just right..... As for the width of the dart, depends on the size of your bust.
See the reply above. :)
Help please l want to use both darts
What if I wanted both bust and waist darts?
Watch the dart manipulation video and you can split the dart into 2
Hi, I m French and your vidéo is very important for me, but i dont understand 1 thing, and the subtitles are not very good. At 0:44, what is the point that you draw, it's the point to the armhole's hight point to what ? The subtitles say "apec". Excuse me for my English but thanks u :))
Mael Baot it says to the “apex”, or the point of the line she drew. (The dot)
How do I add another dart with the waist dart
You want to have two darts? You can always split one dart into two...
IsntthatSew I would spilt the waist dart into two and the pivot one to the side or shoulder or where ever I want it to be thus making the original waist dart smaller. Pls could you explain how I would split the waist dart. Thank you
Have you watched the dart manipulation video? You can use the technique to achieve this!
Why add extra length
❤
Who's very helpful.
Why do this at all? Am I trying to solve a problem? What is problem I’m solving?
I'm a bit confused. when you say 1" dart - that is scaling it to fit your small pattern but for a standard pattern - determing cup size dart - where would that factor in. I'm a D cup....... when you rotate the cut section - do you rotate it to blend with the existing armhole seam as closely as you can?
Yes, correct. The size of the dart will change depending on the cup size. If you're a D cup, I'd add another 3/4" to 1". . . When you rotate it, yes...you will blend the side seam line if you're moving the dart somewhere else. Essentially, when you rotate...you're just closing the dart to move it somewhere else...You'll always blend and true the lines.
I want to add the dart to a button front shirt. it's a basic KwikSew pattern and it fits fine, but has no shape. I have to lengthen all of my tops 3" and sometimes more so the pattern I did buy that had a dart - (not kwiksew) had a dart, but it was an interior dart and I couldn't figure out how to add the length to the bottom using their l/s line that didn't interfere with that particular style dart. so back to my KwikSew but it needs a dart. either a side dart or perhaps even a french dart, but not quite sure how to do that (french dart) on such a long section of the blouse........ thank you for responding. I'm hoping to find one GOOD button front shirt pattern that I can continue using without always having to alter it somehow......LOL
Have you ever tried to draft a sloper?
no - I would consider my self a partly advanced NOVICE......I try - but I tend to overthing everything and end up getting nothing accomplished. I have the surefit designs kit for dresses which would aid in doing that and even that is a tad beyond me...........While I can excel at lots of things, sewing just not come naturally to me as it does to some............I"m not sure why,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Дякую!
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Very helpful .thank you
Very helpful, thanks!