This channel is a goldmine for tips and tricks regarding fixing tools. I'm an electronics engineer but trying to branch out into more forms of repair - thanks for the content, Dean.
That's quite common problem with DHP458. Too much moisture, too much plaster, cement and other kinds of dust and there you go. It's a wise thing to store those drills in fairly dry places, use a compressed air or air blower to clean the chucks and apply some dry lube+water repellent from time to time. Excellent video. Your professionalism is praiseworthy.
Cool video. I always, I have always wondered if the manufacturers make a spindle key of some sort for just this scenario. I have the Makita 486 and replaced the chuck for a Dewalt rohlm one from screw-fix. Had to use the "cut the chuck off method" from your's truly as is wouldn't undo for no one.
Simpler way to remove that counter screw. Use a 10 mm flat driver bit, it must be a round one. Snuggle the bit up lightly in the chuck so it does not wiggle all over the place, give it a bit of WD40, let it soak, give the bit a good tap with a hammer then use a regular impact driver to unscrew. It's a lot easier than using a regular screw driver especially with worn out screw heads because you can really lean into that impact driver to keep it from jumping out of the screw slot. If needed you can clamp the patient lightly in your vice. Works 99/100 times. A regular 10 mm flat bit might be a little bit too thick for the slot, I slimmed down the one I've been using for years on a daily base. Using a 10 mm bit instead of a smaller one is important. With the chuck snug around the 10 mm bit there is still room for the screw head to work it's way out. (all this from fairly rusty memory, I haven't repaired tools for years, bit size might be off). I'm sure about the good whack tho ;-)
That is a really helpful video, thanks for taking so much trouble. A question, if I may. My old Makita DHP 482 finally died so I treated myself to a new one here in France. When it arrived the chuck would accept a drill bit but it would not release it afterwards. I checked on TH-cam and this problem seems to have been around for at least a couple of years. I contacted the supplier but they wanted to repair it (a brand new drill)! When I asked why they were suppling potentially faulty equipment they finally agreed to a refund. I wonder has anyone else come across this attitude? It appears, that there is a batch of faulty chucked Makita drills, the suppliers seem happy to keep suppling the to customers (they make their initial profit, then when the customer complains they "repair" the faulty drill and no doubt charge Makita for the "repair" work). Two profits from one drill. Any thoughts please?
Thanks for that, I was wondering if there was a better method. I’ve got an excellent Röhm chuck lying around and I can’t get the factory chuck off my Makita drill. The Allen key method worked for me on a little Bosch drill once, but the Makita? Not a chance, it’s like that thing is welded in there. Might go looking for that special tool.
Awesome repair. Cant beat the old makita tools made in japan. My brother was in the ridgid platform, over there its AEG. He kept going through drills and recip saws all the time. Eventhough the have lifetime service, hes too lazy to bring them in and just kept buying new ones. Has like 4 or 5 of each of them. Still just kept buying them instead of sending the old ones in. Never a problem with the impacts or anything else, just drills and recip saws. I told him to switch to makita because they are far more reliable, and can fix them yourself. Little did i know, the newer ones are now made in china, like everything else these days. He got the xt288t kit, and the impact just stoped working in just under 2 years. Believe its the xdt16. Put the battery in, and nothing happens. No lights nothing. Is it more likely to be the controller or the switch? Whats the best way to figure it out? Check for continuity/resistance at the switch? Before his crapped out, i had bought the same kit. Now im worried mines going to fail. The clutch on my drill xph-14 has been kinda crap since day one. It works fine, but when you're tightening it to lock on to a bit, once its tight and you give it a little extra to make sure its locked in like i have done w every drill ever, you can feel it pop, then it gets loose and have to tighten it back up and stop just before that point. Never had any drill/chuck ever do that to me. Pretty disappointed with the quality of the newer makita tools since the started making them in china. Had i known that, i probably would have never recommended them to my brother, and switched platforms myself.
Nice tip on the custom socket. No thread locker, though? I suppose I'd use a medium (Blue) strength, since it'd be difficult to utilize heat in that space.
dean ive a 12v makita kango the drill works great but the batteries are shit any adapter i can buy to upgrade to lithium batteries and is it possible to up the power to 18v . thanks love your shows
Just one problem..the only Makita drill I have is the one that needs the new chuck. So no free tool or spare parts for me. Chuck was perfectly fine..until some idiot borrowing it left it in the rain. This is why I no longer let people use my tools.
Please would you tell me, what are those 3 little sticks below transmission on sides for? It's like 5mm short, it has head like mushroom an also there is spring. I could not switch my dhp481 between drill/screw/hammer. I found out 2/3 were broken so I ended up not putting them back (left only one). Do not even know what they are for...? You can remove them from below chunk. Drill works only one.
Hey @deandohertygreaser, I bought a HA3JAW to replace the chuck on my Makita drill but I can't seem to get the SDS adapter off it. Any tips? Or am I just crazy.
This channel is a goldmine for tips and tricks regarding fixing tools. I'm an electronics engineer but trying to branch out into more forms of repair - thanks for the content, Dean.
You are a man for the people Dean. Thank you.
That's quite common problem with DHP458. Too much moisture, too much plaster, cement and other kinds of dust and there you go. It's a wise thing to store those drills in fairly dry places, use a compressed air or air blower to clean the chucks and apply some dry lube+water repellent from time to time.
Excellent video. Your professionalism is praiseworthy.
Thank you
As if tradesmen will do that
@@smashyrashy You're right. But as a tradesman, I do it. I prefer my tools in working order :)
Excellent content,as usual. Best tool repair channel on TH-cam!
You give me hope in humanity Dean.
Neat idea using the deep socket and the ‘widget’ !
Keep the videos coming Dean.
Excelente video amigo saludos desde Honduras centro américa bendiciones para ti y tu proyecto
Cool video. I always, I have always wondered if the manufacturers make a spindle key of some sort for just this scenario. I have the Makita 486 and replaced the chuck for a Dewalt rohlm one from screw-fix. Had to use the "cut the chuck off method" from your's truly as is wouldn't undo for no one.
Found your channel a few weeks ago and have been obsessed
Love the videos
Glad to have you
Yeah, thanks for the content Sir. Your knowledge is pricless.
Thank you, Dean.
Simpler way to remove that counter screw. Use a 10 mm flat driver bit, it must be a round one. Snuggle the bit up lightly in the chuck so it does not wiggle all over the place, give it a bit of WD40, let it soak, give the bit a good tap with a hammer then use a regular impact driver to unscrew. It's a lot easier than using a regular screw driver especially with worn out screw heads because you can really lean into that impact driver to keep it from jumping out of the screw slot. If needed you can clamp the patient lightly in your vice. Works 99/100 times.
A regular 10 mm flat bit might be a little bit too thick for the slot, I slimmed down the one I've been using for years on a daily base.
Using a 10 mm bit instead of a smaller one is important. With the chuck snug around the 10 mm bit there is still room for the screw head to work it's way out.
(all this from fairly rusty memory, I haven't repaired tools for years, bit size might be off). I'm sure about the good whack tho ;-)
That is a really helpful video, thanks for taking so much trouble. A question, if I may. My old Makita DHP 482 finally died so I treated myself to a new one here in France. When it arrived the chuck would accept a drill bit but it would not release it afterwards. I checked on TH-cam and this problem seems to have been around for at least a couple of years. I contacted the supplier but they wanted to repair it (a brand new drill)! When I asked why they were suppling potentially faulty equipment they finally agreed to a refund.
I wonder has anyone else come across this attitude? It appears, that there is a batch of faulty chucked Makita drills, the suppliers seem happy to keep suppling the to customers (they make their initial profit, then when the customer complains they "repair" the faulty drill and no doubt charge Makita for the "repair" work). Two profits from one drill. Any thoughts please?
I suggest you get one of those wera chisel driver with the through shaft. The flat blade on those scredrivers fit really good on the screw.
Thanks
Thanks!
Welcome!
Thanks for that, I was wondering if there was a better method. I’ve got an excellent Röhm chuck lying around and I can’t get the factory chuck off my Makita drill. The Allen key method worked for me on a little Bosch drill once, but the Makita? Not a chance, it’s like that thing is welded in there. Might go looking for that special tool.
I like this method much better may take a little longer but it looks easier on the drill.
Awesome repair. Cant beat the old makita tools made in japan. My brother was in the ridgid platform, over there its AEG. He kept going through drills and recip saws all the time. Eventhough the have lifetime service, hes too lazy to bring them in and just kept buying new ones. Has like 4 or 5 of each of them. Still just kept buying them instead of sending the old ones in. Never a problem with the impacts or anything else, just drills and recip saws. I told him to switch to makita because they are far more reliable, and can fix them yourself. Little did i know, the newer ones are now made in china, like everything else these days. He got the xt288t kit, and the impact just stoped working in just under 2 years. Believe its the xdt16. Put the battery in, and nothing happens. No lights nothing. Is it more likely to be the controller or the switch? Whats the best way to figure it out? Check for continuity/resistance at the switch?
Before his crapped out, i had bought the same kit. Now im worried mines going to fail. The clutch on my drill xph-14 has been kinda crap since day one. It works fine, but when you're tightening it to lock on to a bit, once its tight and you give it a little extra to make sure its locked in like i have done w every drill ever, you can feel it pop, then it gets loose and have to tighten it back up and stop just before that point. Never had any drill/chuck ever do that to me. Pretty disappointed with the quality of the newer makita tools since the started making them in china. Had i known that, i probably would have never recommended them to my brother, and switched platforms myself.
Just remember this detailed instruction is free and if it helps you save money then why not make a contribution. (No affiliation to Dean)
Have you considered using an impact screwdriver for removing the chucks? Wera has one that turns when you hit it with a hammer.
nice work, I was thinking I would cut it off so i could have two broken pieces.
Can you cover the front bearing replacement. They seem to go crunchy quickly.
Nice tip on the custom socket.
No thread locker, though? I suppose I'd use a medium (Blue) strength, since it'd be difficult to utilize heat in that space.
Its gonna be a nightmare next time around then.
That L threaded screw bites a lot of blokes. Good lesson. Cheers!
We got the shop tour video but we're still waiting on the hardware store tour
I wonder if you got you inspiration from "makita 1r359" video tool demonstration.
Eitherway good job not paying hundres for the "official" solution.
Hello. What size is this impact socket?
Is that Makita blood on the bench?
dean ive a 12v makita kango the drill works great but the batteries are shit any adapter i can buy to upgrade to lithium batteries and is it possible to up the power to 18v . thanks love your shows
Not that im aware of, iv only ever seen 18v adaptors
there isnt from old 12v to new 18v series adapter bc you would just burn your devise- to high voltage
Any dtw1002 you’ve been working on lately?
Just one problem..the only Makita drill I have is the one that needs the new chuck. So no free tool or spare parts for me. Chuck was perfectly fine..until some idiot borrowing it left it in the rain.
This is why I no longer let people use my tools.
Never lend or borrow tools.
I see it all the time. Especialy never borrow big expensive tools.
I got a drill that the chuck wobbles has run out . I replaced the chuck but it’s still pretty bad is there anything else I can try 🤔🙏
Please would you tell me, what are those 3 little sticks below transmission on sides for? It's like 5mm short, it has head like mushroom an also there is spring. I could not switch my dhp481 between drill/screw/hammer. I found out 2/3 were broken so I ended up not putting them back (left only one). Do not even know what they are for...? You can remove them from below chunk. Drill works only one.
I always take a soldering iron and heat that screw in the chuck first
What brand is that slim bit in your Driver? Super handy that👍
the slip ph2 is actualy a makita collated drywall gun bit.
@@deandohertygreaser cheers fella 🙏
Do Makota sell that spline tool to anyone or do you have to be a repair tech?
Hey @deandohertygreaser, I bought a HA3JAW to replace the chuck on my Makita drill but I can't seem to get the SDS adapter off it. Any tips? Or am I just crazy.
It should be the same as the chuck on your drill. a left hand thread screw holding the chuck and then right hand thread to unscrew the chuck.
Wouldn't it of have been easier to just replace whole chuck-gearbox assembly?
Yes, but it would have also cost a lot more money
This is hard , yust use impact driver on the old chuk from autside and do not dosmantle anything , I try it worked very easy.
i know that, im simply demonstrating a different method
dean its makita hr160d 12v sds
YES
No volume!
It sounds like a grinder
🪛
Fifth lol