Whoa dude I just bought a new gixxer in another city and rode it the 11 hours home and every 20 minutes or I had to pull in the clutch so I could take my throttle hand off - it was KILLING me. I realized when I got home the right bar end had come off completely. This video helped explain why it was so rough - thanks man!
Any time brother, ya that bar vibration is murder on the hands and you know when your missing a bar end that's for sure. I'm going to be working on a video that will demonstrate how to fill the bars with dampening material to reduce it even further.. i ride 100m a day and even though i have these heavier weighted ends my hands still take a beating.. stay tuned for that..
I found that if you take out whatever damper is in the bar, get a good heavy metal wall plug, encase it in rubber, insert in to the bars and get a long boot, the size you need and tighten. If you need to, trim the grip and throttle tube. Works great
Ya i've seen a video somewhere on YT not to long ago showing this exact thing. I may have to try and post my thoughts. Seems like a good idea although some may complain about added weight. On my daily commute I care more about my hands going dead then i do about weight reduction, last thing you want to do in traffic is whiskey throttle your way through because you cant feel the amount of force you're applying, Been there done that a few times having the bike buck on me like a wild horse. Not fun!
@@TheChemistDIY yeah that doesn't sound great. Don't be scared of re-drilling and tapping a thread in to the existing bar ends. Figure out the best fixing to use and grab a couple of stainless ones with some thread lock. Just be careful where the end and grip comes to where the throttle is. I agree with the want on vibe reduction over weight.
Thanks for the video. IMPORTANT NOTE to other people so you do not make the mistake that this person and I made. I also completely removed the bolt/screw from the assembly. As another video I have just seen explained, if you do that, the nut (into which you insert this bar-end bolt) may go farther into the handlebars, and it may be very difficult to retrieve. I am not sure if I have caused that problem for myself, but it seems not. The less risky way... Unscrew the bolt until it is loose but do not remove it completely. Wiggle the bar-end assembly out of the bar. Swap whichever parts you need to swap (probably you will do a wholesale swap and not mix parts form your original assembly and your new assembly). Insert your new assembly with its bolt and nut only finger-tight. Why?... the purpose of the rubber tube is to expand as you tighten the bolt, therefor holding the bar-end assembly in place. Tightening the bar-end assembly nut too much will mean the rubber gets too fat to insert. I did not know this when working on my bike yesterday. I think I may have been fortunate, but now I have to check. The other videos. th-cam.com/video/L4bM5ySmEqs/w-d-xo.html
Bar end weight his an important factor but if you get numb hands it's probably more because you hold too much on the handles. Relax your bar control and it'll make a big difference.
If your hands are going numb you need to hang on more with your knees and less with your hands. Support your body with your lower back. You only need to barely hang on.
I have a plug on the end of my right bar end, and when to replace it with the same one shown(10oz)but there’s nothing inside for the bolt or the rubber to sit into
Every bar end should come with the mounting hardware it needs to stay fixed within the tube. It's basically a nut with a piece of rubber and when tightened down the nut squeezes the rubber against the body of the bar end causing it to expand within the tube. Tighten your nut to the point where the rubber and bar end is a bit snug to get in.. then insert.. use some sort of fast drying lube if need be to slip in.. slowly tighten once in to complete the expansion..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for that, I figured it out and added a metal washer on the other side of the rubber plug to prevent it from sliding over the internal shaft when being tightened and now it’s very snug
Its as you stated, rubber piece. Any cylinder rubber piece with it a hole in the middle will work really. Its function is to expand within the handle bar to hold the barend in place.. As you tighten the screw, the nut and washer on the opposite end pull closer to the barend.. barbuching up the rubber piece till meets the inner of diameter of the handlebar.. simple but effective.
My, new to me, Connie 100 kills my hands. Never had a problem with my Harley, Voyager 1200 or Honda PC800. I just ordered nice, heavy bar ends. If that does not work I'm selling the bike.
This is a pretty well known issue with the Connie from my research. If the bar ends dont tone the vibration down to your liking and before you take your last ditch effort of selling the bike, try the old Harley trick of filing the bars with led buckshots. Some have even reported success with adding a watered down silicon solution with led buckshots to totally reduce the vibration to almost nothing. There are many vibration solutions to choose from, just google "handlebar vibration damper" and see for yourself. www.ebay.com/i/302747897325?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
I added a barkbuster handgaurd and the barkbuster weighted bar ends along with the OEM bar ends. The vibrations became too bad and started at just 3K rpm(originally after 6K).
I would imagine it would, you just added more surface area to vibrate along with the bar. 10oz. Weight Counteracts the vibration and weight travailing through the fixed bar.. you just latched on something hanging in free space collecting wind drag (larger surface area) attached to something thats alread vibrating and expect 6oz. Weights to counteract all this?
The outer diameter of that rubber piece is roughly 17.75 mm. The length as I'm speaking to you now measures 19.27 mm.. Hope that helps you out.. Don't forget to like and subscribe
Wow, the fact that you were able to screw your new screw into the nut that you left just hanging out in the bar was pure luck! This is definitely NOT the way to remove or install a bar-end. The entire assembly must come out, then the entire assembly goes back in. The tightening of the machine screw is not to thread into something already in the handlebar, but to pull the nut already on the end inwards to deform the rubber tube thereby tightening the whole assembly in the tube. Please people, do not follow these instructions. Intro about purpose of bar ends, weight etc. is good but the how-to is totally off the rails.
What up Dj, yes you are correct. Typical the full assembly does comes out.. but as you seen for yourself this is not always the case. Given the age of the bike and conditions it's stored in (outside) the rubber will expand and stick, staying lodge in place. Trying to fish the nut and lock-in place rubber bushings would be damn near impossible without full disassembly of the bar end.. not worth the Headache if you ask me.. but yes this may not be the case for everyone..
any feedback on how this particular bar end weight helped? Are you still using this same one because it worked? Thanks for the video, nice explanation - I was just wondering how you got on with them and if you tried any others since?
What's up David. The bar ends worked out perfectly. I still have them till this day and even ordered an extra set just incase I loose one. I tend to do things like this to avoid down time with parts that are a must have. My hands and wrists do get fatigued as with any sports bike that has you thrust forward but nowhere near what I was experiencing before. If your looking for a good weighted bar end then this is it.. if they made a heavier set trust me I would purchase it. I'm currently pursuing other methods to increase the vibration damping and make a video on it if I find a solution that adds to this one..
I just found your channel and all of your vids are great. Just picked up an 04 750 and your vids are going to help me out a lot!!! where did you get your flush mount signals? i have the same ones but one side is out and I can't find them anywhere.
Hajime Nakasone Welcome to the channel, great to have you aboard. I love 750 and can't imagine ever leting it go. To answer your question these flush mount LED turn signals came with the bike. to me they look like they were made by the previous owner with ABS plastic and 4 12 volt amber LEDs. Maybe I should post up a tutorial on how to make. I've searched the internet myself to try and find but I have never seen this model. They usually go by casket or tombstone style turn signals (HOTBODIES makes a few). here's a link for one's that are some what similar that I found on eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/111768671190 Don't forget to hit that bell button to receive updates of new videos I post. I try and put out something usefull every week.
If you tend to take long rides or have a long commute then these grips are actually really great and reduce the fatigue and numbness that riders tend to experience. This is my 3rd set of these foam grips and have to say they save your hands greatly from bar vibration (hence the topic of the video). The thicker foam keeps your hands away from the source of the vibration, the bar! This type of grip is most commonly used by Harley Riderz and for good reason. The larger engine and rougher idle puts out tramendes vibration that causes dead hands and wrist. The thicker foam gives you maximum distance from that source and dentens the blow so to speak. Dead hands is no bueno when you no longer have the control and feedback of how much throttle your applying. Dead hands and wrist have almost caused me to have a few low sides because I couldn't feel just how much throttle i was applying, its like trying walk on a leg that has fallen asleep, you can do it, but real sloppily. You don't want this on a machine capable of taking your life. I've gone through butt loads of grips searching for the ones that offer the least amount of vibration and I have to say if your a rider that rides for long hours or commutes far distance this is the way to go. Is this something i would use on track day.. hell na, for that I have other grips so I have all the feel and response from the controls as I should . Sometimes its not about appeal but rather functionality. Thanks for your comments brother.
Not sure what you have against foam grips brother but I am far from a weekend rider. In fact I put over 500 miles a week which averages out to roughly 2k miles a month, far surpassing the weekend worriers which I think you could categorize yourself in compared to me. The setup I have is for daily commuting and if it's on my bike then you know it works. I have gone through countless configurations to provide the most comfort. Have I tried them all, probably not but when you find the sweet spot that works for you then theres no need to look any further. You have to remember the stiffer the compound the more likelyhood it will transfer vibration, that includes rubber or gel. The fact that Harley riders use them should tell you something as their bike put out the most vibration with the large V Twins. At this point in time, until I find something better, foam is the way to go as it reduces the amount of contact surface between you and the bar. Thanks for commenting..
james moreno weekend rider or not, if comfort is such a big factor for you then why the F... did you buy a sports bike? That might be the dumbest bike class to buy if you like comfort over feeling/control and grip! The bike is designed to do lap times, full throttle, knee down. Not drinking coffee with a flip up helmet
@@TheDaniishDude LOL, I didn't buy the bike initially for commuting, it just end up that way. Who wants to buy a hog, a hog is for old people and at age 45 I don't see that coming anytime soon. Shit I love the twisties and the feel of getting pined back into the seat when I crack WOT and hit a buck-60 down the freeway.. but in LA traffic that's one in a few for me. With this setup I still have the best of both worlds. When its time to hit the snake you for sure know I'm fully tuned and modded for that ride brother.
james moreno there is a lot of different bikes there isn’t a hog but still great for commuting, and any more upright sitting bike would be waaaay better but you do you with your foam grips. Now you got a cruiser GSXR why not make a trackready gold wing while your at it?
None taken brother, to each his own. That said most of my newest content doesn't have background music. It's either a hit or miss. Thanks for the comment.
Whoa dude I just bought a new gixxer in another city and rode it the 11 hours home and every 20 minutes or I had to pull in the clutch so I could take my throttle hand off - it was KILLING me. I realized when I got home the right bar end had come off completely. This video helped explain why it was so rough - thanks man!
Any time brother, ya that bar vibration is murder on the hands and you know when your missing a bar end that's for sure. I'm going to be working on a video that will demonstrate how to fill the bars with dampening material to reduce it even further.. i ride 100m a day and even though i have these heavier weighted ends my hands still take a beating.. stay tuned for that..
Terrible background music selection and volume. 🤦🏻♂️
You nailed it buddy... totally agree with you...
I found that if you take out whatever damper is in the bar, get a good heavy metal wall plug, encase it in rubber, insert in to the bars and get a long boot, the size you need and tighten. If you need to, trim the grip and throttle tube. Works great
Ya i've seen a video somewhere on YT not to long ago showing this exact thing. I may have to try and post my thoughts. Seems like a good idea although some may complain about added weight. On my daily commute I care more about my hands going dead then i do about weight reduction, last thing you want to do in traffic is whiskey throttle your way through because you cant feel the amount of force you're applying, Been there done that a few times having the bike buck on me like a wild horse. Not fun!
@@TheChemistDIY yeah that doesn't sound great. Don't be scared of re-drilling and tapping a thread in to the existing bar ends. Figure out the best fixing to use and grab a couple of stainless ones with some thread lock. Just be careful where the end and grip comes to where the throttle is. I agree with the want on vibe reduction over weight.
- Thank you, kind Sir!
I have a 04 FXDL - Dyna Low Rider - need something like these.
Two down! 🤙🙃
Thanks for the video.
IMPORTANT NOTE to other people so you do not make the mistake that this person and I made.
I also completely removed the bolt/screw from the assembly.
As another video I have just seen explained, if you do that, the nut (into which you insert this bar-end bolt) may go farther into the handlebars, and it may be very difficult to retrieve.
I am not sure if I have caused that problem for myself, but it seems not.
The less risky way...
Unscrew the bolt until it is loose but do not remove it completely.
Wiggle the bar-end assembly out of the bar.
Swap whichever parts you need to swap (probably you will do a wholesale swap and not mix parts form your original assembly and your new assembly).
Insert your new assembly with its bolt and nut only finger-tight.
Why?... the purpose of the rubber tube is to expand as you tighten the bolt, therefor holding the bar-end assembly in place.
Tightening the bar-end assembly nut too much will mean the rubber gets too fat to insert.
I did not know this when working on my bike yesterday.
I think I may have been fortunate, but now I have to check.
The other videos.
th-cam.com/video/L4bM5ySmEqs/w-d-xo.html
Bar end weight his an important factor but if you get numb hands it's probably more because you hold too much on the handles. Relax your bar control and it'll make a big difference.
Constructive comment: Make your point and end. Could do this video in 2 to 3 mins. And next time, choose better music! Otherwise, thanks.
If your hands are going numb you need to hang on more with your knees and less with your hands. Support your body with your lower back. You only need to barely hang on.
I have a plug on the end of my right bar end, and when to replace it with the same one shown(10oz)but there’s nothing inside for the bolt or the rubber to sit into
Every bar end should come with the mounting hardware it needs to stay fixed within the tube. It's basically a nut with a piece of rubber and when tightened down the nut squeezes the rubber against the body of the bar end causing it to expand within the tube.
Tighten your nut to the point where the rubber and bar end is a bit snug to get in.. then insert.. use some sort of fast drying lube if need be to slip in.. slowly tighten once in to complete the expansion..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for that, I figured it out and added a metal washer on the other side of the rubber plug to prevent it from sliding over the internal shaft when being tightened and now it’s very snug
@@drewaitchison7482 awesome, as long as the goal was achieved that's all that matters.. lol. Ride safe 😉
Started to replace my OEM bar ends until I saw your video
I'm number 1000 on the subscribe!!!!!
Welcome to the channel madkilljoy and thanks for being the 1000th subscriber. I hope you find the information you need put out by my videos.
whats this rubber piece that goes inside the bar end called, and where can i buy one?
Its as you stated, rubber piece. Any cylinder rubber piece with it a hole in the middle will work really. Its function is to expand within the handle bar to hold the barend in place.. As you tighten the screw, the nut and washer on the opposite end pull closer to the barend.. barbuching up the rubber piece till meets the inner of diameter of the handlebar.. simple but effective.
My, new to me, Connie 100 kills my hands. Never had a problem with my Harley, Voyager 1200 or Honda PC800. I just ordered nice, heavy bar ends. If that does not work I'm selling the bike.
This is a pretty well known issue with the Connie from my research. If the bar ends dont tone the vibration down to your liking and before you take your last ditch effort of selling the bike, try the old Harley trick of filing the bars with led buckshots. Some have even reported success with adding a watered down silicon solution with led buckshots to totally reduce the vibration to almost nothing.
There are many vibration solutions to choose from, just google "handlebar vibration damper" and see for yourself.
www.ebay.com/i/302747897325?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
I added a barkbuster handgaurd and the barkbuster weighted bar ends along with the OEM bar ends. The vibrations became too bad and started at just 3K rpm(originally after 6K).
I would imagine it would, you just added more surface area to vibrate along with the bar. 10oz. Weight Counteracts the vibration and weight travailing through the fixed bar.. you just latched on something hanging in free space collecting wind drag (larger surface area) attached to something thats alread vibrating and expect 6oz. Weights to counteract all this?
@@TheChemistDIY Will remove the and add a heavier hvmp bar end and try.
you dont remove vibration , good bar ends purpose is to move the handlebars resonant frequency away from the engines operating RPM
great explanation love it !
good explanation.
G we got the same bikes, whats the size of that rubber piece 6:38 that goes inside the handlebar ?
The outer diameter of that rubber piece is roughly 17.75 mm. The length as I'm speaking to you now measures 19.27 mm.. Hope that helps you out.. Don't forget to like and subscribe
Wow, the fact that you were able to screw your new screw into the nut that you left just hanging out in the bar was pure luck! This is definitely NOT the way to remove or install a bar-end. The entire assembly must come out, then the entire assembly goes back in. The tightening of the machine screw is not to thread into something already in the handlebar, but to pull the nut already on the end inwards to deform the rubber tube thereby tightening the whole assembly in the tube.
Please people, do not follow these instructions. Intro about purpose of bar ends, weight etc. is good but the how-to is totally off the rails.
What up Dj, yes you are correct. Typical the full assembly does comes out.. but as you seen for yourself this is not always the case. Given the age of the bike and conditions it's stored in (outside) the rubber will expand and stick, staying lodge in place. Trying to fish the nut and lock-in place rubber bushings would be damn near impossible without full disassembly of the bar end.. not worth the Headache if you ask me.. but yes this may not be the case for everyone..
any feedback on how this particular bar end weight helped?
Are you still using this same one because it worked?
Thanks for the video, nice explanation - I was just wondering how you got on with them and if you tried any others since?
What's up David. The bar ends worked out perfectly. I still have them till this day and even ordered an extra set just incase I loose one. I tend to do things like this to avoid down time with parts that are a must have. My hands and wrists do get fatigued as with any sports bike that has you thrust forward but nowhere near what I was experiencing before. If your looking for a good weighted bar end then this is it.. if they made a heavier set trust me I would purchase it. I'm currently pursuing other methods to increase the vibration damping and make a video on it if I find a solution that adds to this one..
I just found your channel and all of your vids are great. Just picked up an 04 750 and your vids are going to help me out a lot!!!
where did you get your flush mount signals? i have the same ones but one side is out and I can't find them anywhere.
Hajime Nakasone Welcome to the channel, great to have you aboard. I love 750 and can't imagine ever leting it go. To answer your question these flush mount LED turn signals came with the bike. to me they look like they were made by the previous owner with ABS plastic and 4 12 volt amber LEDs. Maybe I should post up a tutorial on how to make. I've searched the internet myself to try and find but I have never seen this model. They usually go by casket or tombstone style turn signals (HOTBODIES makes a few). here's a link for one's that are some what similar that I found on eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/111768671190
Don't forget to hit that bell button to receive updates of new videos I post. I try and put out something usefull every week.
good 1
Nah dude.....those chrome grips Never looked cool.... lol ;)
You got real lucky that nut didnt fall off from the inside of your bars or you would be hit. Just saying,dont try this.
those grips looks so fkin bad and they are too soft too.... omg
If you tend to take long rides or have a long commute then these grips are actually really great and reduce the fatigue and numbness that riders tend to experience. This is my 3rd set of these foam grips and have to say they save your hands greatly from bar vibration (hence the topic of the video). The thicker foam keeps your hands away from the source of the vibration, the bar!
This type of grip is most commonly used by Harley Riderz and for good reason. The larger engine and rougher idle puts out tramendes vibration that causes dead hands and wrist. The thicker foam gives you maximum distance from that source and dentens the blow so to speak. Dead hands is no bueno when you no longer have the control and feedback of how much throttle your applying. Dead hands and wrist have almost caused me to have a few low sides because I couldn't feel just how much throttle i was applying, its like trying walk on a leg that has fallen asleep, you can do it, but real sloppily. You don't want this on a machine capable of taking your life.
I've gone through butt loads of grips searching for the ones that offer the least amount of vibration and I have to say if your a rider that rides for long hours or commutes far distance this is the way to go. Is this something i would use on track day.. hell na, for that I have other grips so I have all the feel and response from the controls as I should .
Sometimes its not about appeal but rather functionality. Thanks for your comments brother.
I can barely hear what is said, the music is not needed💯
I would never take advise from a guy having foam grips! Go buy a chopper already
Not sure what you have against foam grips brother but I am far from a weekend rider. In fact I put over 500 miles a week which averages out to roughly 2k miles a month, far surpassing the weekend worriers which I think you could categorize yourself in compared to me.
The setup I have is for daily commuting and if it's on my bike then you know it works. I have gone through countless configurations to provide the most comfort. Have I tried them all, probably not but when you find the sweet spot that works for you then theres no need to look any further.
You have to remember the stiffer the compound the more likelyhood it will transfer vibration, that includes rubber or gel. The fact that Harley riders use them should tell you something as their bike put out the most vibration with the large V Twins.
At this point in time, until I find something better, foam is the way to go as it reduces the amount of contact surface between you and the bar.
Thanks for commenting..
james moreno weekend rider or not, if comfort is such a big factor for you then why the F... did you buy a sports bike? That might be the dumbest bike class to buy if you like comfort over feeling/control and grip! The bike is designed to do lap times, full throttle, knee down. Not drinking coffee with a flip up helmet
@@TheDaniishDude LOL, I didn't buy the bike initially for commuting, it just end up that way. Who wants to buy a hog, a hog is for old people and at age 45 I don't see that coming anytime soon. Shit I love the twisties and the feel of getting pined back into the seat when I crack WOT and hit a buck-60 down the freeway.. but in LA traffic that's one in a few for me. With this setup I still have the best of both worlds. When its time to hit the snake you for sure know I'm fully tuned and modded for that ride brother.
james moreno there is a lot of different bikes there isn’t a hog but still great for commuting, and any more upright sitting bike would be waaaay better but you do you with your foam grips. Now you got a cruiser GSXR why not make a trackready gold wing while your at it?
Thanks for the review fella. I don't wish to offend, but have to mention you really should lose that ''very'' ''irretating'' background music.
None taken brother, to each his own. That said most of my newest content doesn't have background music. It's either a hit or miss. Thanks for the comment.
Ditch the music Buddy.
Horrible !