How to Replace Rear Shock 07-13 Chevy Silverado
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
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New Shock Absorber Set from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASS...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install , fix, change or replace your rear shocks. This video is applicable to the 08 Chevy Silverado
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/obD/1AX...
• 21mm wrench
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oeU/1AX...
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/ocA/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/owm/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/orQ/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/ogv/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/ofz/1AX...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/UJ/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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There is a little bit of metal on the rust there bud
Plenty of meat left.
Detailed the pro league, thanks that's why I buy with you
+Norm Jr Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Thank you so much that explains it to an old man I really appreciate that.
Thanks for the video, I thought it’s was going to be harder till I watched this, saved me money.
+Summit 1234 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
I didn’t quite understand what the pry bar was to be used for at the end but otherwise, typically good 1A Auto how-to video.
Honestly thought that bolt holding the shock to the frame was going to disintegrate after he put some leverage on that. That rust has good tensile strength. Curious why you just didnt replace the bolt with a new one?
I usually cut the wire holding the shocks until the end and use a screws driver on the opposite where the bolt goes in to hold it in place so I don't have to lift up the axle.
A couple of comments to add to this video since I did this on my '07 and is a Wisconsin truck which means dealing with rust.
I was able to get both shocks out without removing the spare tire. Removing the spare tire gives you just a bit more room to take out the driver's side shock but even with it in it's not really in the way.
The bottom bolt will most likely be rusted inside the shock mount. If you tap on the bolt to move it out and it won't go that's prolly what the issue is. I had to heat and quench the bolt up to get it freed. Also there is a possibility that the upper mount might be broken. Not the mount itself but the metal tube that the mount is attached to which is welded onto the frame. Watch out for that if it's rusted or broken off.
Again, just giving advice to those who have rusty and maybe not too trusty trucks here in the rust belt!
Otherwise this video was very helpful and I thank these guys for having it up here!
I have seen the future rust shower I shall take when I replace my own rear shocks😬.
Love your vids…. They’re very helpful. I do notice you guys never use crc or penetrant oil spray before taking components apart or I’ve never seen y’all use never seize on threads????
I think shocks are this guys last concern 😁😁
I was aiting for the "welded nut" to snap like my truck does.
Hey A1 Auto can you do a video on how to replace door hinges and other door maintenance?
+Joseph Still Smoking We're always cycling through cars filming hundreds of common repairs for common vehicles every month. We'll add this to our list of repairs to film. Check back again and hopefully we'll have it soon.
Thank you.✌
I've heard people say you need to charge the new shock by compressing/releasing the cylinder several times before install... Is this actually necessary? I would imagine it's easier to install with the shock compressed and the ties in place up hold it, then snipping the ties after it's mocked in place to install as easy as possible?
Going to be changing the rear shock on my 2500 Sierra tomorrow. Is it really necessary to drop the spare tire?
If I cut/weld top shock mount. Should I worry about the gas tank?
How long would it take change out the front and rear with shocks and struts on a 2013 Sierra 1500?
Was that the stock shock that you took out? Just wondering if mine is stock since it looks the same as that one with the plastic shield.
Is there a reason why I keep seeing this done on the bottom first then the top?
Literally my thoughts. Always top first. Its the hardest one to do! Makes putting the bottom bolt in so much easier. 🤦♂️
you forgot to put anti Seize on the bolts
+Tom Mack Thanks for the feedback!
Is 14-18 similar
is it entirely necessary to torque the bolts?
No just tide them real good without breaking them.
Depends. Do you want to risk having them too tight or not tight enough? They provide a torque spec because thats the ideal torque which will remove the risk of them being too loose and vibrating loose, or being too tight and shearing under stress.
Does anyone think I can put a 1 ton shocks on the back of my 2011 1/2 ton?
+Aaron French Thanks for checking us out! Replacing the original shock with a different design may require further modification and may not function properly. Hope this helps you out!
That didn't look too painful!
How come these videos keep showing how to do the driver side but not the passenger side