It's about half what a made in the USA Conley v8 used to cost when you could get them (A decade ago). Pretty good deal considering the work and all; but, it is a cheap Chinese knockoff, ya get what ya pay for. No biggie for someone with a 5 axis mill.
@@steved479 3k. no biggie? It's pretty lame for anyone that's bought one that doesn't have a 5 axis mill... indeed, why the hell should anyone have to fix it before it works? Shame Conleys are no longer available
More so. You can tell these were designed to be started up once or twice, say "oh cooool!" and then forgotten. There is so much unreliability, i mean the fact that so many of these engines have horrible tuning/timing issues straight out of the box? And shearing off the bolts for the flywheel. It'll be cool to see Q90 get this up to snuff
Agreed. I was thinking that it needed some sort of variable ignition timing, like old V8's have. Either that, or throw some sort of electronic ignition on it.
Man, I thought the exact same thing. It's better for sure, but IMO, it's still clearly off from what it should be. It's a shame it shipped in such a shoddy condition, because it's so fucking close to being truly amazing.
I don't see them that way. Even a cheap chinese product like this has all the basics. Once you get the materials and specific flaws worked out, most china stuff is decent enough, especially at a fraction of the price. Without china, stuff like this would be completely outside the realm of normal hobbyists.@@macedindu829
So buy a better alternative engine then. Can't find one? Well there's your problem! This is a vanity engine. It's not supposed to actually be used. The fact that it works at all is supposed to be enough. As a curiosity item that's what most buyers will be expecting. And the price? Well there's not much in the way of competition and the production volume is extremely small so there's a lot of manual work and few standard components used. This makes it expensive already at the BOM, add the limited competition and the price just goes up.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 For $3K, I'd expect even a "vanity" engine to not rip itself apart just running without a load. Buuut, if you like wasting your money, I guess you do you bud
@@blahorgaslisk7763 you are sort of talking down to someone for having different market expectations from you. Some want more for their money, I imagine you do as well.
If that is your thought then it is deff not your hobby. I don't understand why I like to watch these vids but I to would never buy one EDIT: I would assume that for him all the tuning and tinkering is exactly what he likes about it
@@Cyge240sx Youre welcome to assume that. I have one of the largest RC collections in the world, so this is definitely my hobby.. Maybe thats why i know the quality it takes to make a decent engine? Maybe my comment isnt just some random guy on the internet talking shit, but a lifetime of knowledge and experience talking? These little engines are awesome, but theyre chineseium, and not built well. Cast parts vs machined, etc. Dont believe me? Watch the video again.
the fuel level dropped only after cutting the throttle, those pulse type carbs are meant to have a very distinct pulse from a single cylinder engine witch makes the diaphragm in the carb pump the fuel. a proper carburetor setup with a float would be substantial
I was thinking the same thing. It sounded like it was getting some pre detonation at the higher rpm. The pulse pump carbs are a likely culprit combined with the increased timing.
5:57 kinda sounds like detonation at full revs after fix.. hard to say for sure on an engine so small, the fundamental feels like 2 octaves too low but otherwise really feels/sounds like it!
For next video series, you should install electronic fuel injection and electronic control ignition. Then we can see the real performance of this engine
Idea is cool, but this engine is far too small, well tuned carbs of decent quality will provide as much performance and throttle response as fuel injection, main reason it's used in modern cars is fuel economy and emissions, as for ignition, the distributor is fine it just needs proper adjustment to get the correct timing, it also likely doesn't have spark advance so that's why it idled higher after adjustment but could rev higher over all.
High inertia flywheel driven by 4 little screws located close to the rotation axis. They were bound to loosen and eventually break when the engine was repeatedly accelerated and decelerated rapidly.
Protip: Disassemble any machinery or tooling you get the comes out of Southeast Asia or China. About 97% of the time you're going to find grinding dust or lapping compound in everything, ready to destroy the machine or tool you just bought. If you're buying tooling or machinery from USA, Europe or Japan you dont have to worry about this.
It still doesn't sound right after your timing fix. I could be really wrong, but the timing might be able to be further dialed in on it. I really enjoy your videos! Thanks for sharing stuff like this!
When I was a jobbie at GM Powertrain design there was a machinist that was into miniatures and he made an actual 350 1/4 scale that ran .This guy made a lot of miniature things like cars and airplanes so when it came time to think about retiring him and his wife went to Disney Land or which ever is the one in Florida , and applied for a job . When he got home he sent them a video of all the miniatures he had made and they hired him right away.
Nice fix. I wonder now at 6500RPM if you're starting to get some valve float. The cam grind is probably a compromise to give acceptable idle and throttle response, but has too much lift for high RPM operation. Wonder if you add some cam phasers to give it some more advance at higher RPM. Might only tolerate a few degrees, but it would be an interesting engineering challenge. Same potential on the ignition timing. If the distributor or ignition control doesn't have timing advance that would be a worthwhile upgrade to improve starts and high RPM performance.
Not quite how that works, lift won't be the issue, that'll only help with performance, spring strength, cam duration and overlap will be bigger factors, that and ignition not having spark advance.
@@ethancoy9237 right.... Spring strength, cam duration.... Which will directly improve/affect VALVE FLOAT hahahahahaha xD. Given the quality of the rest of this motor it wouldn't be the least bit surprising if the valve springs are not very strong in this case.
@@TehCheezMan Yeah no shit, it's Chinese made and barely runs out of the box, thing that was being said was ways to improve that, increasing valve spring strength and more duration, of which won't directly cause valve float, rpm will cause that as a result of the power band being changed and peak power being higher in the rpm range.
Be careful at full throttle, it sounds like you are getting massive valve bounce. It may be that the ignition timing was set to limit RPM to protect the valves.
There should be competitions with these engines on who can create the most power from one. Or maybe that will happen in the future, it would be so cool to watch.
Hey there Johny Q I find watching your videos truly mesmerizing , any chance of a workshop walk around as I see new machines and tools on every videos and as cool as the end build is I find the reengineering side of it just as interesting cheers Mark from NZ
It still has a timing issue. Problem being is its basically statically timed. You advancing it helped, but what it needs. Is either a vacumm or mechanical advance. Which advances the timing progressively, with RPMs. You may be able to run the spark, through a ignition module. Similat to an MSD unit, but with not that type of voltage output.
Can't imagine who, and how, someone machined a crank, a cam shaft, and a block with tolerances to be accurate enough to not only enable that engine to run but to not vibrate right off the table. Can't imagine the skill it took to make the heads with valves making that engine run pretty darn good. Bravo!
I was thinking the same thing except I will add that he paid $2800 and it came with 2 weed eater carburator's and runs like shit. I've always wanted one untill now.
Those engines actually don't have that close tolerances by the looks of it, and with modern CNC equipment keeping decent tolerances isnt that difficult. I work at a large engine plant, and we need to keep tolerances within thousands of a millimeter on some machined parts, and castings within a tenth of a millimeter before machining. For a model engine, I'm pretty sure sure most things have at least 10x those tolerances.
Needs vacuum advance like a real carb and classic V8 would have. Electric Ignition and Fuel injection would really give you lots of options, and more data to adjust things with.
Do you happen to have a timing light? I know very little about mini engines, but a full scale V-8 should be conservatively around 30° advance before top dead center at 3 to 5 thousand rpms. For performance (possibility for knock) 45° advance. It still doesn't sound as healthy as it should be, but great job so far tuning!
you can pull bank 1 cylinder head and see with a dial indicator absolute tdc of #1cyl. and set timing advance from there. then you will have total over all timing gain and not just a 8-10 degree operating window. but be aware it will very easily over rev. it sounds like she has way more in her.
It still sounds like it's fight to rev, I'd be curious for you to check how many degrees your at. Is there any you can dyno that thing? Maybe hook up a small generator to it and add electric load 🤔
I felt what you felt when you popped the fan shroud on the radiator/heater core. Yes, it's going to work, it's been engineered to do so.... But Oh Gawd those poor fins, lol
That sounds like pre detonation at the higher revs. Could the combo of increased timing and slightly lean mixture be causing a problem now? It may be able to rev even higher if that gets fixed. Hard to tell from just listening though. Just throwin the idea out there.
@@oldschoolmotorsickle that's wrong. Pre-ignition, detonation, and pre-detonation all refer to the same thing. Air fuel mixture igniting before the connecting rod has passed tdc on the crank journal, causing the combustion pressure to fight the momentum of the rotating assembly. Don't know where you're from, but here, it's referred to as pre-ignition or pre-detonation.
Im reading the comments and apparently this thing cost around 3 grand? I collect small engines(old horizontal shaft stationary stuff) Dont get me wrong, its badass.. and im always happy to see someone enjoying a project. Youve done really good work with the improvements. But i gotta ask, do you know how fast you can go with 3k? Like 200mph if you spent it on a crotch rocket (and with the right gearing). For 3 grand, you could go pick up a small block chevy and a project car and actually do some burnouts. The "bang for buck" on this little motor is not very much.
PRC junk, my '80's Conleys run like Swiss watches. Valve springs need constant checking for seat pressure because the material loses its memory so fast due to its lack of size from heat, but when they're new, they run, they run beautifully.
You should try to merge the exhaust. I had dual all the way back unmerged and I made an x pipe out of a 5 inch piece of vibrant exhaust tubing on my 2016 mustang gt. She made an extra 51 ft lbs and 19 hp at the wheels. It also sounds a thousand times better. Try it
Maniacracing- great work on this engine!! 👍👍 like Siskel & Ebert used to say. However you have a couple of issues going on that I hear and can see right off the bat. One is that bc your carbs are for a 2 cycle application, they have no accelerator pump. They are also undersized for the engine; this being evidenced by how we hear popping out of the carbs at speed; we are actually hearing detonation occur. Once you size the carbs accordingly to the displacement of the engine I dont really think you will still need accelerator pumps anyhow unless you plan to actually work the engine. Also if the thing will not see freezing temperatures, antifreeze is a terrible conductor of heat; it would behoove you to just run plain water in that puppy. Is that a 18436572 firing order that I hear?
Unless the engine is made of aluminum, i think the ethylene glycol should be fine as it will help if the block is made of steel (Edit: rust preventative). The water pump, unless it has a sealed grease bearing, will need the ethylene glycol to lubricate the water pump bearings to keep it working for the sake of cooling.
Sounds much better. You have found some great secrets in this motor. The radiator set up is boss.Thirsty little thing! It sounds to me some valve over lap and or just a bit loose.
I love all the work you do to make these things better. By default, they run like crap, the timing is off, you certainly manage to make the best of them. I would never buy any of these, ultimately, they are junk, and not usable reliably in any way but they are entertaining. They are not worth more than $150 tops, anyone who pays full price for these will regret it.
Does anybody know why the engine can only go up to 6500rpm after the timing has been fixed? My gut tells me that a smaller displacement engine (78cc) should be able to go way higher than that. Is it perhaps got to do with the friction of the engine due to having 8 cylinders? Would be interesting to learn about this.
My guess would be that the cams are really compromised, which leads to the low rpm. It also sounds like a cross plane crankshaft which doesnt rev very high with so many cylinders. The pistons should be fine for higher revs because of their slight oversquare design (bore 22.9mm, stroke 20mm) but i think that friction isnt the problem here. And of course the timing is still shit, even tough he adjustet it. If you want to learn more detailed stuff about engines, i would really recomend the channel 'driving 4 answers' to you.
… and with no load! Yes, I expect friction is a huge part of this, and terrible airflow and a woefully inadequate ignition system. If the designer thinks a gear pump is a good solution to move coolant around, who knows what other issues have been incorporated. A bendy crank with inadequate bearings is probably where to start the search for improved performance.
With that cubic inch motor, 4.75 inches, I estimated a 10cfm head flow through those heads, with a 100% efficiency, the calculator I’m using says the engine should be able to reach 21,946 rpm, or basically 22k. More research is needed, but such a tiny motor should spin WAY higher than its big counterparts. Another Calc I used showed a max piston speed of under 4000, so you would need forged internals for that, but it indicated a max rpm of 19,500. Similar to my estimation above. With those two stats combined, I don’t think I’m far off.
Dude, ... You have an immense amount of mechanical and machining talent, ... Why are you messing with little toys?.? I would be making custom engine parts with the lathe and the Cnc tools you have… Just saying.…. 👍😎👌
It still seemed to be “loading up” if anyone asks me. Are you certain that you didn’t have a hole out? Anyway I think it’s a wonderful project and you have done great with it and these videos. Bravo!
5k rpm seems about right to me for something like this. I feel like youre hitting 6500 and getting massive amounts of valve float. None of that is to say nothing seemed off before hand, because it definitely sounded wrong. Since you have the skill and tools, make your own cam profiles, experiment with less lift and more duration, lobe separation angle, the whole shebang. Also, the ratio of rotating mass on the end of the crankshaft conpared to the actual size, be it physical dimentions and dispacement of the motor seem very off
@lastofthebest5102 I looked and seen that too. 9k seems perfectly pheasible for and engine this displacement. But I'd imagine, since another commenter with more knowledge about engines than I was talking about terrible cam profile and substandard machining accuracy on the camshafts. I'd imagine it's not unfair to say that's all they could safely achieve. Something properly engineered at this size, with such little moving weight, 12k rpm is probably well withing our metallurgical grasp
While I agree your timing job fixed the bog, the valves are floating at 6,500. I say next video you should figure out how to install a working tachometer and keep the revs below 6,000
Keep tweaking with it brother maybe a different carburetor intake setup it is definitely cool. After you get it running good would be cool to install it in some type of vehicle
Awesome little engine! May have advanced the timing just a little too much. That crackling you can hear sounds like ignition gasses escaping just before the inlet valve closes, or some kind of pre-ignition.
I think your timing might be a few degrees slightly too advanced now. Hear the ping sound. Also if screws are shearing off on your flywheel that's another indication it's slightly forward mate.
Has this motor been sorted yet ? as one other said, carby not quite right for application and, perhaps more timing advance and and, i had a v8 sprint car back in the s day, it wouldnt rev. turns out too much fuel.
So you can't adjust the cam gears a tooth in either direction either to advance or retard the timing? If the distributor had to move that much I would check my cam timing alignment.. anything is possible for the timing issue.. you had 1 defective part already..
I'm not saying you're dumb either.. but educate yourself on timing.. timing on boosted applications changes too. So timing adjustment might be a custom thing.. but you can figure it out with a little knowledge on what needs to change. Advance the intake 1 toothbut retard the exhaust cam 2. That kind of stuff.. these are examples only.. idk how it applies to your application.. but I think you'll figure it out
may be nothing , but i noticed that the fuel line in the container is flat and may suck its self to the bottom , maybe cut the hose on a bias ? just in case
I got mine about a month ago the ignition box will not start it even though the plugs fire outside the engine they will not fire when under the combustion pressure trying a new ignition box and it fired up immediately but does not run the best. It is very tight when cold it is hard to turn over by hand also all the ignition wire in the distributer are loose, they are not crimped will that cause problem. Now I am trying to prove to Stirling kits that the ignition box doesn't work which is hard. ATM will not buy any more of these things I have a 32cc 4 cylinder that I got 3 years ago it is a book end and I think this will be a book end as well.
Imagine paying that much for that miniature V8 and the water pump dies, the timing is off, and the flywheel bolts sheer off right out of the box.
It's about half what a made in the USA Conley v8 used to cost when you could get them (A decade ago). Pretty good deal considering the work and all; but, it is a cheap Chinese knockoff, ya get what ya pay for. No biggie for someone with a 5 axis mill.
@@steved479 3k. no biggie? It's pretty lame for anyone that's bought one that doesn't have a 5 axis mill... indeed, why the hell should anyone have to fix it before it works?
Shame Conleys are no longer available
@@crissyb00cus it's cheap
@@crackedemerald4930 3k may be cheap to you, but it ain't for most
It's chinese garbage. What do you expect
i love how this thing has basically the same workings and maintenance requirements as a full size engine
As it should
And even emulates a full sized Ford engine's reliability...
Because it's an actual engine just smaller
If your unreliable full size engine was made in Germany.
More so. You can tell these were designed to be started up once or twice, say "oh cooool!" and then forgotten. There is so much unreliability, i mean the fact that so many of these engines have horrible tuning/timing issues straight out of the box? And shearing off the bolts for the flywheel. It'll be cool to see Q90 get this up to snuff
That is still a very unhappy engine. The popping through the intake leads me to suspect it still has timing and/or valve lash issues
Agreed. I was thinking that it needed some sort of variable ignition timing, like old V8's have. Either that, or throw some sort of electronic ignition on it.
It is actually reversion. Which is most likely valve float related
Man, I thought the exact same thing. It's better for sure, but IMO, it's still clearly off from what it should be. It's a shame it shipped in such a shoddy condition, because it's so fucking close to being truly amazing.
I don't see them that way. Even a cheap chinese product like this has all the basics. Once you get the materials and specific flaws worked out, most china stuff is decent enough, especially at a fraction of the price. Without china, stuff like this would be completely outside the realm of normal hobbyists.@@macedindu829
I thought I heard some detonation.
$2,800 dollar engine and the flywheel bolts shear off.
Excellent review- again.
Probably why it was limited to 5000 rpm from factory?
On the linked website it claims 9000 rpm max
How is a video of cheap chinese garbage where the "reviewer" doesnt even speak an "excellent review"?
@@deckname5794 like they 1,000,000mah power packs and 2,000,000 lumen torches?
What’s the stroke? It should be about feet per minute max at what, 3500?
Sounds a lot better then before, 2,800$ sounds too much for the water pump and the flywheel bolt to fail like that.
So buy a better alternative engine then. Can't find one? Well there's your problem!
This is a vanity engine. It's not supposed to actually be used. The fact that it works at all is supposed to be enough. As a curiosity item that's what most buyers will be expecting. And the price? Well there's not much in the way of competition and the production volume is extremely small so there's a lot of manual work and few standard components used. This makes it expensive already at the BOM, add the limited competition and the price just goes up.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 For $3K, I'd expect even a "vanity" engine to not rip itself apart just running without a load.
Buuut, if you like wasting your money, I guess you do you bud
@@blahorgaslisk7763 You can buy an actual full size V8 from a junk yard for that price
@@blahorgaslisk7763 you are sort of talking down to someone for having different market expectations from you. Some want more for their money, I imagine you do as well.
2800 is for the bare minimum quality
It still sounds really out of whack.. And all these problems. While its awesome to watch you dial it in, it really confirms that id never buy one..
However i'd build one myself
If that is your thought then it is deff not your hobby. I don't understand why I like to watch these vids but I to would never buy one
EDIT: I would assume that for him all the tuning and tinkering is exactly what he likes about it
@@Cyge240sx Youre welcome to assume that. I have one of the largest RC collections in the world, so this is definitely my hobby.. Maybe thats why i know the quality it takes to make a decent engine? Maybe my comment isnt just some random guy on the internet talking shit, but a lifetime of knowledge and experience talking? These little engines are awesome, but theyre chineseium, and not built well. Cast parts vs machined, etc. Dont believe me? Watch the video again.
the fuel level dropped only after cutting the throttle, those pulse type carbs are meant to have a very distinct pulse from a single cylinder engine witch makes the diaphragm in the carb pump the fuel. a proper carburetor setup with a float would be substantial
I was thinking the same thing. It sounded like it was getting some pre detonation at the higher rpm. The pulse pump carbs are a likely culprit combined with the increased timing.
Until you can spell which* and construct a coherent sentence I am thinking your opinion is irrelevant.
@@lastofthebest5102 ah nice pointing out my dyslexia, you must be fun at parties! uhm ACKTUALLY
@@lastofthebest5102clown 🤡
That looks almost exactly like the carburetor off my 2-stroke 25cc Echo weed eater
5:57 kinda sounds like detonation at full revs after fix.. hard to say for sure on an engine so small, the fundamental feels like 2 octaves too low but otherwise really feels/sounds like it!
For next video series, you should install electronic fuel injection and electronic control ignition. Then we can see the real performance of this engine
It'll just break more quickly 🙂
The MegaSquirt will be bigger than the engine haha
Idea is cool, but this engine is far too small, well tuned carbs of decent quality will provide as much performance and throttle response as fuel injection, main reason it's used in modern cars is fuel economy and emissions, as for ignition, the distributor is fine it just needs proper adjustment to get the correct timing, it also likely doesn't have spark advance so that's why it idled higher after adjustment but could rev higher over all.
It still sounds like it could run even better if you could dial the phase even more precisely
Yep. Possibly fuel issues too.
Or throw that pos in the trash and build a new engine from scratch.
High inertia flywheel driven by 4 little screws located close to the rotation axis. They were bound to loosen and eventually break when the engine was repeatedly accelerated and decelerated rapidly.
Good point
I feel it has more to give ... keep tweaking
Protip: Disassemble any machinery or tooling you get the comes out of Southeast Asia or China.
About 97% of the time you're going to find grinding dust or lapping compound in everything, ready to destroy the machine or tool you just bought.
If you're buying tooling or machinery from USA, Europe or Japan you dont have to worry about this.
still a good idea to check everything you get. Helps you understand how it all works too
Protip: dont buy asian garbage.
I feel like this needs to be the powerplant for a scooter. A V8 scooter just sounds too cool.
Cool and scooter are two words that definitely don’t belong together! You know what they say about fat chicks and scooters don’t cha?
Ive been having the exact same thought....
It still doesn't sound right after your timing fix. I could be really wrong, but the timing might be able to be further dialed in on it.
I really enjoy your videos! Thanks for sharing stuff like this!
Sounds so much better now . Awesome work as always
When I was a jobbie at GM Powertrain design there was a machinist that was into miniatures and he made an actual 350 1/4 scale that ran .This guy made a lot of miniature things like cars and airplanes so when it came time to think about retiring him and his wife went to Disney Land or which ever is the one in Florida , and applied for a job . When he got home he sent them a video of all the miniatures he had made and they hired him right away.
Nice fix. I wonder now at 6500RPM if you're starting to get some valve float.
The cam grind is probably a compromise to give acceptable idle and throttle response, but has too much lift for high RPM operation.
Wonder if you add some cam phasers to give it some more advance at higher RPM. Might only tolerate a few degrees, but it would be an interesting engineering challenge.
Same potential on the ignition timing. If the distributor or ignition control doesn't have timing advance that would be a worthwhile upgrade to improve starts and high RPM performance.
After the first couple of revs and hearing it break up at higher RPM that was my gut reaction.
Not quite how that works, lift won't be the issue, that'll only help with performance, spring strength, cam duration and overlap will be bigger factors, that and ignition not having spark advance.
@@ethancoy9237 right.... Spring strength, cam duration.... Which will directly improve/affect VALVE FLOAT hahahahahaha xD. Given the quality of the rest of this motor it wouldn't be the least bit surprising if the valve springs are not very strong in this case.
@@TehCheezMan Yeah no shit, it's Chinese made and barely runs out of the box, thing that was being said was ways to improve that, increasing valve spring strength and more duration, of which won't directly cause valve float, rpm will cause that as a result of the power band being changed and peak power being higher in the rpm range.
@@ethancoy9237what is valve float?
Great work brother! Every adjustment is making it better and better👍👍
Excellent work so far, but it seems like there might be a bit more joy waiting for you find in this thing.
Tuned perfectly. The sound of the machine is very smooth 🤤
Be careful at full throttle, it sounds like you are getting massive valve bounce. It may be that the ignition timing was set to limit RPM to protect the valves.
Good point. Who knows the float point of those itty-biddy valves
It sounds like a bag of nails. English expression to say it sounds like it's f**ked 😂
Waiting for the “1:1 Scale V8 Engine” video😂
I would love to see that motor in a quarter scale RC wood speed boat.
I want to see it put in a Power Wheels car.
There should be competitions with these engines on who can create the most power from one. Or maybe that will happen in the future, it would be so cool to watch.
Hey there Johny Q I find watching your videos truly mesmerizing , any chance of a workshop walk around as I see new machines and tools on every videos and as cool as the end build is I find the reengineering side of it just as interesting cheers Mark from NZ
Thanks for the time and energy in making this video.
It still has a timing issue. Problem being is its basically statically timed. You advancing it helped, but what it needs. Is either a vacumm or mechanical advance. Which advances the timing progressively, with RPMs. You may be able to run the spark, through a ignition module. Similat to an MSD unit, but with not that type of voltage output.
Can't imagine who, and how, someone machined a crank, a cam shaft, and a block with tolerances to be accurate enough to not only enable that engine to run but to not vibrate right off the table. Can't imagine the skill it took to make the heads with valves making that engine run pretty darn good. Bravo!
I was thinking the same thing except I will add that he paid $2800 and it came with 2 weed eater carburator's and runs like shit. I've always wanted one untill now.
Those engines actually don't have that close tolerances by the looks of it, and with modern CNC equipment keeping decent tolerances isnt that difficult.
I work at a large engine plant, and we need to keep tolerances within thousands of a millimeter on some machined parts, and castings within a tenth of a millimeter before machining. For a model engine, I'm pretty sure sure most things have at least 10x those tolerances.
Needs vacuum advance like a real carb and classic V8 would have. Electric Ignition and Fuel injection would really give you lots of options, and more data to adjust things with.
Do you happen to have a timing light? I know very little about mini engines, but a full scale V-8 should be conservatively around 30° advance before top dead center at 3 to 5 thousand rpms. For performance (possibility for knock) 45° advance. It still doesn't sound as healthy as it should be, but great job so far tuning!
Can i hear some ping after advancing timing? Or is just the exhaust
I would be very unhappy great work getting it going.
you can pull bank 1 cylinder head and see with a dial indicator absolute tdc of #1cyl. and set timing advance from there. then you will have total over all timing gain and not just a 8-10 degree operating window. but be aware it will very easily over rev. it sounds like she has way more in her.
One of my favorites on TH-cam.
Good morning from Arizona , amazing work Johnny .
Please vicariously send me just a tiny amount of your patience and perseverance.
keep on it. Love to see working out the problems and issues as it goes.
It still sounds like it's fight to rev, I'd be curious for you to check how many degrees your at. Is there any you can dyno that thing? Maybe hook up a small generator to it and add electric load 🤔
I felt what you felt when you popped the fan shroud on the radiator/heater core. Yes, it's going to work, it's been engineered to do so....
But Oh Gawd those poor fins, lol
What model is that CNC you're using for the Delrin milling?
so its a reupload?
what i said in the now not existing video
those model engines seem to often be very troubled with pumps and carbs
I love how you visibly see the v8 engine drinking fuel like a fish, just like a full scale model 😆
That sounds like pre detonation at the higher revs. Could the combo of increased timing and slightly lean mixture be causing a problem now? It may be able to rev even higher if that gets fixed. Hard to tell from just listening though. Just throwin the idea out there.
There’s pre-ignition and there’s detonation, but there’s no such thing as “pre-detonation”.
@@oldschoolmotorsickle that's wrong. Pre-ignition, detonation, and pre-detonation all refer to the same thing. Air fuel mixture igniting before the connecting rod has passed tdc on the crank journal, causing the combustion pressure to fight the momentum of the rotating assembly. Don't know where you're from, but here, it's referred to as pre-ignition or pre-detonation.
Im reading the comments and apparently this thing cost around 3 grand? I collect small engines(old horizontal shaft stationary stuff) Dont get me wrong, its badass.. and im always happy to see someone enjoying a project. Youve done really good work with the improvements.
But i gotta ask, do you know how fast you can go with 3k? Like 200mph if you spent it on a crotch rocket (and with the right gearing). For 3 grand, you could go pick up a small block chevy and a project car and actually do some burnouts. The "bang for buck" on this little motor is not very much.
What is that rattling after timing adjustment at 5:40. Is it too far advanced, because it almost sounds like it pinging.
PRC junk, my '80's Conleys run like Swiss watches. Valve springs need constant checking for seat pressure because the material loses its memory so fast due to its lack of size from heat, but when they're new, they run, they run beautifully.
You should try to merge the exhaust. I had dual all the way back unmerged and I made an x pipe out of a 5 inch piece of vibrant exhaust tubing on my 2016 mustang gt. She made an extra 51 ft lbs and 19 hp at the wheels. It also sounds a thousand times better. Try it
Maniacracing- great work on this engine!! 👍👍 like Siskel & Ebert used to say. However you have a couple of issues going on that I hear and can see right off the bat. One is that bc your carbs are for a 2 cycle application, they have no accelerator pump. They are also undersized for the engine; this being evidenced by how we hear popping out of the carbs at speed; we are actually hearing detonation occur. Once you size the carbs accordingly to the displacement of the engine I dont really think you will still need accelerator pumps anyhow unless you plan to actually work the engine. Also if the thing will not see freezing temperatures, antifreeze is a terrible conductor of heat; it would behoove you to just run plain water in that puppy. Is that a 18436572 firing order that I hear?
Unless the engine is made of aluminum, i think the ethylene glycol should be fine as it will help if the block is made of steel (Edit: rust preventative). The water pump, unless it has a sealed grease bearing, will need the ethylene glycol to lubricate the water pump bearings to keep it working for the sake of cooling.
It looked like the water pump shaft/shafts were damaged where they fit into the rear bearing? You may have to run a lubricant in the cooling system...
Sounds much better. You have found some great secrets in this motor. The radiator set up is boss.Thirsty little thing! It sounds to me some valve over lap and or just a bit loose.
I love all the work you do to make these things better. By default, they run like crap, the timing is off, you certainly manage to make the best of them. I would never buy any of these, ultimately, they are junk, and not usable reliably in any way but they are entertaining. They are not worth more than $150 tops, anyone who pays full price for these will regret it.
If Toyota produced a mini UZFE I would buy it in a heart beat. Man I love this, the sound melts my heart.
Does anybody know why the engine can only go up to 6500rpm after the timing has been fixed?
My gut tells me that a smaller displacement engine (78cc) should be able to go way higher than that.
Is it perhaps got to do with the friction of the engine due to having 8 cylinders?
Would be interesting to learn about this.
My guess would be that the cams are really compromised, which leads to the low rpm. It also sounds like a cross plane crankshaft which doesnt rev very high with so many cylinders. The pistons should be fine for higher revs because of their slight oversquare design (bore 22.9mm, stroke 20mm) but i think that friction isnt the problem here. And of course the timing is still shit, even tough he adjustet it. If you want to learn more detailed stuff about engines, i would really recomend the channel 'driving 4 answers' to you.
… and with no load! Yes, I expect friction is a huge part of this, and terrible airflow and a woefully inadequate ignition system. If the designer thinks a gear pump is a good solution to move coolant around, who knows what other issues have been incorporated. A bendy crank with inadequate bearings is probably where to start the search for improved performance.
Because at 6510 it would fly apart probably
Friction, or gas flow, or some ignition problem, but most likely friction. This is no load too!
So good to see the engine getting the love it deserves still got a way to go but its getting there
Why was this re uploaded?
Those are 2cycle carbs so you needed to lean the high speed out quite a bit from a 2cycle setting.
With that cubic inch motor, 4.75 inches, I estimated a 10cfm head flow through those heads, with a 100% efficiency, the calculator I’m using says the engine should be able to reach 21,946 rpm, or basically 22k.
More research is needed, but such a tiny motor should spin WAY higher than its big counterparts.
Another Calc I used showed a max piston speed of under 4000, so you would need forged internals for that, but it indicated a max rpm of 19,500. Similar to my estimation above. With those two stats combined, I don’t think I’m far off.
Seems Like they always have a LOT of Bugs to work out....
Do they not Expect people to run the engines or? what LOL!
I still find it funny that it uses the same carburetors as a Poulan leaf blower
They are garbage.
You'd have the most badass weedeater in the neighborhood with that!
Would be awesome to have a collaboration with the Speeduino team, imagine this with a computer ignition timing map!
AFAIK antifreeze has poor cooling properties. As there any point in using it if the engine is always indoors?
Are the inlet valves closing at the right time still?. Looks like its spitting back into the carbs as you rev it.
Suggestion Jon Use water soluble cutting fluid (used in machining) in your engine coolant. it will lubricate the brass gears in the water pump.
This is so cool. Is there an actual output shaft on this motor? I would love to see it in action, possibly installed into a Barbie jeep🤷🏽🤟🏼
Dude, ... You have an immense amount of mechanical and machining talent, ... Why are you messing with little toys?.?
I would be making custom engine parts with the lathe and the Cnc tools you have…
Just saying.….
👍😎👌
It still seemed to be “loading up” if anyone asks me. Are you certain that you didn’t have a hole out? Anyway I think it’s a wonderful project and you have done great with it and these videos. Bravo!
I was wondering can these engines be purchased?🤔
carb jettings might need some adjustments but holyyy this is dope!
Hey Johnny, you ever considered putting ITB's and a proper electronic ignition system on it?
5k rpm seems about right to me for something like this. I feel like youre hitting 6500 and getting massive amounts of valve float. None of that is to say nothing seemed off before hand, because it definitely sounded wrong. Since you have the skill and tools, make your own cam profiles, experiment with less lift and more duration, lobe separation angle, the whole shebang. Also, the ratio of rotating mass on the end of the crankshaft conpared to the actual size, be it physical dimentions and dispacement of the motor seem very off
Website states 9k which is laughable.
@lastofthebest5102 I looked and seen that too. 9k seems perfectly pheasible for and engine this displacement. But I'd imagine, since another commenter with more knowledge about engines than I was talking about terrible cam profile and substandard machining accuracy on the camshafts. I'd imagine it's not unfair to say that's all they could safely achieve. Something properly engineered at this size, with such little moving weight, 12k rpm is probably well withing our metallurgical grasp
While I agree your timing job fixed the bog, the valves are floating at 6,500. I say next video you should figure out how to install a working tachometer and keep the revs below 6,000
Man, that motor is a piece of junk. Breaks after every 5 minutes of run time.
$2,800 dollar engine
Well every component is sintered chineseium, and every fastener is borrowed from the same bin for the marital aids….
Keep tweaking with it brother maybe a different carburetor intake setup it is definitely cool. After you get it running good would be cool to install it in some type of vehicle
How many hours will these small engines last ? They must use bushings. Very cool.
looks real cool & fun...... good job.
Those headers are absolutely beautiful. 👍👍
Awesome little engine! May have advanced the timing just a little too much. That crackling you can hear sounds like ignition gasses escaping just before the inlet valve closes, or some kind of pre-ignition.
Fantastic video project , well done ,i like the phenolic spacers on the carbs , try using less glycol for better water cooling !!
Awesome job. Im wondering whats the lowest rom you can idle it... the lope would sound cool
I think your timing might be a few degrees slightly too advanced now. Hear the ping sound. Also if screws are shearing off on your flywheel that's another indication it's slightly forward mate.
Has this motor been sorted yet ? as one other said, carby not quite right for application and, perhaps more timing advance and and, i had a v8 sprint car back in the s
day, it wouldnt rev. turns out too much fuel.
So you can't adjust the cam gears a tooth in either direction either to advance or retard the timing? If the distributor had to move that much I would check my cam timing alignment.. anything is possible for the timing issue.. you had 1 defective part already..
I'm not saying you're dumb either.. but educate yourself on timing.. timing on boosted applications changes too. So timing adjustment might be a custom thing.. but you can figure it out with a little knowledge on what needs to change. Advance the intake 1 toothbut retard the exhaust cam 2. That kind of stuff.. these are examples only.. idk how it applies to your application.. but I think you'll figure it out
may be nothing , but i noticed that the fuel line in the container is flat and may suck its self to the bottom , maybe cut the hose on a bias ? just in case
As much as I dislike "Serpentine" belt drives, I must admit that is one "Sweet" sounding little engine you have there.
I want 4 of these to put in my vehicle- one for each wheel and the equivilant to a full V8!
I got mine about a month ago the ignition box will not start it even though the plugs fire outside the engine they will not fire when under the combustion pressure trying a new ignition box and it fired up immediately but does not run the best. It is very tight when cold it is hard to turn over by hand also all the ignition wire in the distributer are loose, they are not crimped will that cause problem. Now I am trying to prove to Stirling kits that the ignition box doesn't work which is hard. ATM will not buy any more of these things I have a 32cc 4 cylinder that I got 3 years ago it is a book end and I think this will be a book end as well.
wonderful machine. how many hp does it produce
That "Pocket CNC", do you have that at home??
Amazing how much it sounds like a full size V8.
Does the distributor have centrifugal weights to establish a timing curve relative to the piston speed?
Respect the time and effort here, but we ask this question a lot in the engineering world - All the trouble and for what?
Man you are amazing at building
What is the speed on the motor is awesome project for speed boat's and car racer be safe God Bless you and your family
Im waiting for someone to make a scaled down version of the Lexus LFA engine. That would probably sound amazing.
Bro is the embodiment of a pure car enthusiast.
Did you find something wrong in the first release of this video?
What material did you 3d print the radiator shroud from?