I love your videos!! As a salesperson, I want nothing but to be upfront with my clients. I was raised in the industry but didn’t like how my dad was going about it and the place I used to work would have me manipulate (which I refuse to do). Looking to go back (I moved having to leave the industry temporarily), I can go back with my head held high and also not be surprised when I get these questions/able to be better prepared.
If you have car shows in your area I recommend going because you can look over and sit in cars you’re interested in without being pressured at the dealership. Also, I recommend knowing as much as possible about the car, including incentives that dealers may be getting, before stepping on the lot.
I bought a 21 Tacoma, had to go out of my state due to two main reasons.. One, I told dealers their add ons were a non started I refused to pay for them., that ended talks with 3 dealers. 3 other dealers stopped communicating me when I said I'd negotiate on out the door price only, not on monthly payment.
Sadly here in Alberta, unless you know someone stealerships charge 30%-100% above MSRP. IE a Mach-e that's around 50K I believe is 85-95K at a stealership.
Dealers (well, the one I've leased 4 Hyundai vehicles from) "hate it" when I show up before lease with the Hyundai website MSRP print out from "Build Your Vehicle" and I tell them I won't pay for X, Y, Z add-ons. They usually trick customers in having options like Mud Flaps listed as PIO, which are Port Installed Options, so you are forced to buy them as the dealer says "we didn't install them". I then tell them I'm expecting a discount then if you want my business. I almost walked out of my local dealership last time, but we'll see IF I get Hyundai #5 next year.
Hi Steve, it's an interesting strategy. I might actually try it. But wondering why you've been leasing from the same brand 4 times now? In addition to the fact that you can afford having monthly payments for 12 years... in my case, I lease to real life test the vehicle. Then I usually purchase the new model once my lease is up if I like the car. And technologies are not that different within 3 years. Maybe 6 years, yeah. Appreciate your inputs.
I drive Mazda 3 GT and I really like the design and the reliability of this car. This is a number one choice for me. Thanks to Shari who purchased it for me.😊
@@Jillousa answer questions that consumers knows answers to, and objective is to piss off the sales rep. I'd love to have a prick like You ask me those questions. I'd teach you rightchesness about customer service real quick
Having been in Dealership Mgmt., that's a pretty decent list. On trade-in's, I would get a quote from Vroom. They're generous on appraisals. Print it and once your ready to sign, say..."I'll buy this car NOW, if you match this quote! Otherwise, I'll just go home and sell it to them first. Then I'll see if I want to come back and buy this car. I LOVE it when a customer takes control of the deal!😂😂😂
Would the better question to ask be HOW do I remove the add-ons? This puts them in a bit more difficult position. If the add-ons can be added, they can be removed.
I love all of your advice, and could not agree more! I got sucked into a low interest loan from the dealer when I purchased a second hand vehicle. The lender was impossible to work with so I refinanced with a lender I trust.
SUGGESTION FOR A VIDEO: Buying a used car from Florida. You’re from Canada so you may be from an area that gets lots of snow and cold (I grew up in WNY). I know Florida is chock full of “sunbirds,” many of whom own lightly used vehicles without rust because they only drive their FL cars part of the year.
I've found that dealerships don't like you coming in saying you can write a check. They rather you finance. They still get a paid in full check from the financer and a kick back bonus.
@@Ian-mv4qq why should there be wiggle room for a new car? anything else and the price is FIXED. in my mind, im thinking of Amazon or Ebay. MSRP for new and used goods have a negotiable price. unless theres a premium to add on; the price should be fixed. *unless costs could be passed onto the buyer. like if you live closer to a car manufacting plant youd get a lower price, and higher the further you live from a car builder? (this idea would suck but at least it makes financial sense to me) if a toyota camry is 20k let it be 20k. PERIOD. lets be like the europeans and have all taxes built into the sticker price. none of that gotcha stuff from add ons, taxes, and fees. matter of fact, make the Company bear the burden of variable profit margins. 20k is 20k PERIOD. if you lived 50 miles from the manufactuer or in rural town washington state (that ackward part that is only accessible through canada) 2 weeks shipping would mean, LESS concrete lots around the USA. just go to any Dealership to test the Floor display, (same as a TV at Best buy) but the car would have hubs across the US. i mean, how many people truly need same day cars? most folks did reaseach for the 2nd largest purchase. (idk if student loans made car purchases 3rd tier yet?) 100s of thousands for houses 20 to 80 thousand for education and cars are also in the same price tier $2k to as high as $85k (with cars going both higher and lower, obviously but most cars 30k give or take 20k) Just think of it like this: only metro cities would have the actual stock of cars but minor cities would have unbranded places just to sign off. so that dodge would have an agent just to let you sign confirmation od receiving your toyota. again, this is for the useless concrete. meh $2000 no more just to ship and be a notary so that folks wont always have to drive from austin to houston, baton rouge la to houston, jackson mississipi to houston. the Hubs for cars would be in every other state that would have ALL their fleet. and the current car dealerships would again be glorified notaries to sign off on the customer getting their car (fee of $2000) meh, bah hum bug. theres a million ways to change the car buying system but if nothing else GET RID OF THEM. too much concrete and too many fees, and too much negotiation. better features for people with money, let discrimination not be based on haggling skills or unspoken racism but the "fair" racism: is their bank green or in the red.
Do your research up front. Don't "ask" the dealer anything. Tell them what you are willing to give them to make a deal. If the salesman has to "run the offer past his sales manager" realize that all your brilliant arguments will never make it to the deal maker. The salesman gets to persuade you, but you can't persuade the sales manager. Make it clear that you consider him to be an "order taker". "People don't do whatever they want, they do whatever you let them." Tommy Vercetti, Grand Theft Auto, Vice City (RIP, Ray Liotta.)
When it's hard to get a new vehicle these days, I experienced that dealers are like "just take it if you want else there are others waiting to get it". I had an experience from Honda claiming that if you need the car you gotta pay for all those. They are not ready to remove any add-on. What to do then?
A very common dilemma. Use the internet to get prices from several dealers. You may have to waste time finding out what they "really" will do. The four car brands I would consider acceptable are: Toyota, Honda, Mazda and Subaru. Check out reviews on the car you are interested in. Every car has advantages and disadvantages. It's not going to be perfect in every respect, but it should get you from here to there. Make it clear that there is a different car (or dealer) you are willing to buy if you don't make a deal with them. Sometimes it's a seller's market (just like real estate). Car dealers have a right to get the best price for their car. Unfortunately.
Tied selling is Illegal. Tied selling is when the dealer forces you to purchase product in addition to the vehicle. A different TH-camr has a roleplay of how to negotiate with the dealer that is practicing tied selling. They have a documents from the FTC that you can provide to the dealer
Excellent advice ✅ #1 Tip get the dealer cost of the vehicle and ask how much profit they require. $500 over cost is fair. #2 Never finance an automobile always pay cash. If you’re making monthly payments you’re driving a vehicle you can’t afford. The bank always pays you, you never pay the bank.
This is really bad advice. - $500 over cost is too much. May be $200 max. - And never pay finance; really? You can pay 20-25% down and invest the rest. Any decent ETFs will give you 5-15% gain every year. Which is technically saving you money rather than paying all cash to a commodity that depreciates the moment you roll it away from the dealer. Plus considering the price of cars these days, majority cannot afford cash payment for any car.
@@susanmeredith4957 APA, Car Cost Canada. There are plenty of reputable services. In fact they will even recommend professional dealers who willingly show you the cost and let you know the cost over price.
@@MasterXj-zb2mi Incorrect. This is a tight automotive supply market. $500 is accurate. 2 years from now $200-$300 over cost will be accurate. Let’s start with a bit of a reality check: new cars drop in value like a bag of rocks, losing 60% of their value in the first five years!This isn’t a smart investment. You really should only consider buying new if you have plenty of money to burn. If you are making lease or finance payments you are losing money and have no business driving the automobile. Cars like Honda and Toyota will easily last 300,000 KMS. Save up your money and buy a good used car for $10,000 if a transportation device is absolutely required. The average monthly car payment is $750. That amount invested wisely is $1.9 million dollars 30 years from now. Do you want $1 million dollars in your bank account between ages 25 and 50? Be an owner not a loaner. There are plenty of debt dummies on the verge of bankruptcy today. Dumb people buy things they don't need with money they don’t have to impress people they don’t like.
I'd disagree to, but really... 1) depends on what you're trying to buy, because if it's high demand right now then good luck getting it for $200-500 over cost. Normally I'd agree, but right now isn't normal. 2) Cash hasn't been king in years. Your best bet is actually getting financing with no prepayment penalty and paying it off shortly after getting the car. You're more likely to get a decent price since dealers make a lot more off interest than they used to. Beyond that, you can (probably) make more money elsewhere depending on the interest rate you're being given. E.g. Mazda offered me a 2.9% on a CX5, I could get more than that on a CD easily. If I were buying used and had terrible credit, I'd go with the first option and pay off the car after financing, ~15% is hard to guarantee and not worth the risk.
Is the mitsubishi Mirage 2023 to 2024 a good first car for an Asian family of 4? I need to mention that because we are relatively small to medium size people.
I think you listed things out of order. It should be 1- cost of new car, 2- trade in offer, 3- finanacing. You'll know how much you need to finance after you factor trade-in and down payment. Getting the finance offer early can only give an interest rate no clue as to total finance cost and monthly payments. Also telling the dealership that you'll be contacting the manufacturer customer service to establish a line of communication incase of any problems that could happen from the purchase of a vehicle puts the dealership on notice up front. You can even establish that customer service contact prior to visiting the dealership if you're pretty sure they. Have the vehicle you want.
Item 4. Get it in writing. Absolute fact. My son in law bought a 2022 Taos from Belleville VW. For weeks we talked to the salesman, and other dealers about a remote start. The answer was the same. It's not available but will be soon. Getting the remote start was included in emails, phone calls and in person visits. Yeah yeah yeah. On the day of pick up I asked that they make sure to write it on the bill that the remote is included when they're available. The salesman refused. The sales manager refused despite us showing them our correspondence. The sales manager went so far to say it hurts our margins. Say what? When the salesman was asked about it by the sales manager he flat out LIED right to her face saying we NEVER had the conversation. Short story long my son in law took the car, I lost it in the showroom and we reported their lies to VW Canada. VW Canada didn't give a shit. We've bought 4 cars there but NEVER again.
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I love your videos!! As a salesperson, I want nothing but to be upfront with my clients. I was raised in the industry but didn’t like how my dad was going about it and the place I used to work would have me manipulate (which I refuse to do). Looking to go back (I moved having to leave the industry temporarily), I can go back with my head held high and also not be surprised when I get these questions/able to be better prepared.
Dealers, manufacturers worst enemy.
Stealership is the consumers worst enemy for decades.
If you have car shows in your area I recommend going because you can look over and sit in cars you’re interested in without being pressured at the dealership. Also, I recommend knowing as much as possible about the car, including incentives that dealers may be getting, before stepping on the lot.
I bought a 21 Tacoma, had to go out of my state due to two main reasons..
One, I told dealers their add ons were a non started I refused to pay for them., that ended talks with 3 dealers.
3 other dealers stopped communicating me when I said I'd negotiate on out the door price only, not on monthly payment.
"Many transparent and professional dealerships . . . " Ha,ha,ha,ha!
Sadly here in Alberta, unless you know someone stealerships charge 30%-100% above MSRP. IE a Mach-e that's around 50K I believe is 85-95K at a stealership.
Prices in Alberta are insane. It's crazy what dealers get away with there.
Dealers (well, the one I've leased 4 Hyundai vehicles from) "hate it" when I show up before lease with the Hyundai website MSRP print out from "Build Your Vehicle" and I tell them I won't pay for X, Y, Z add-ons. They usually trick customers in having options like Mud Flaps listed as PIO, which are Port Installed Options, so you are forced to buy them as the dealer says "we didn't install them". I then tell them I'm expecting a discount then if you want my business. I almost walked out of my local dealership last time, but we'll see IF I get Hyundai #5 next year.
Hi Steve, it's an interesting strategy. I might actually try it. But wondering why you've been leasing from the same brand 4 times now? In addition to the fact that you can afford having monthly payments for 12 years... in my case, I lease to real life test the vehicle. Then I usually purchase the new model once my lease is up if I like the car. And technologies are not that different within 3 years. Maybe 6 years, yeah. Appreciate your inputs.
I drive Mazda 3 GT and I really like the design and the reliability of this car. This is a number one choice for me. Thanks to Shari who purchased it for me.😊
As a car dealer I can confirm . We hate these questions
I bet you will give the customer absolutely BEST price when they ask those questions
Which means you hate customer service.
@@Jillousa answer questions that consumers knows answers to, and objective is to piss off the sales rep.
I'd love to have a prick like You ask me those questions. I'd teach you rightchesness about customer service real quick
Having been in Dealership Mgmt., that's a pretty decent list.
On trade-in's, I would get a quote from Vroom. They're generous on appraisals. Print it and once your ready to sign, say..."I'll buy this car NOW, if you match this quote! Otherwise, I'll just go home and sell it to them first. Then I'll see if I want to come back and buy this car.
I LOVE it when a customer takes control of the deal!😂😂😂
Do you think they would hate it if I ask, “Why are most car salesmen douchebags?”.
Would the better question to ask be HOW do I remove the add-ons? This puts them in a bit more difficult position. If the add-ons can be added, they can be removed.
I love all of your advice, and could not agree more! I got sucked into a low interest loan from the dealer when I purchased a second hand vehicle. The lender was impossible to work with so I refinanced with a lender I trust.
Very helpful information. I feel empowered to deal with these car salespeople.
SUGGESTION FOR A VIDEO: Buying a used car from Florida. You’re from Canada so you may be from an area that gets lots of snow and cold (I grew up in WNY). I know Florida is chock full of “sunbirds,” many of whom own lightly used vehicles without rust because they only drive their FL cars part of the year.
But then you have to worry about floods from hurricane. Dealers will auction off cars damaged by hurricanes in Florida.
I've found that dealerships don't like you coming in saying you can write a check. They rather you finance. They still get a paid in full check from the financer and a kick back bonus.
Mazda Canada requires their dealers to provide OTD pricing to only in person buyers.
I’m planning to buy Honda HRV. Which variant should I buy ? Could you suggest a better car than Honda HRV? Budget 30k$
No reason to have dealers these days.
Soon, we'll all be buying cars online like Tesla does now!
That is the way to go, no BS
But sometimes dealership can knock some more dollars off the car price. Online purchase would be no BS but no more wiggle room.
@@Ian-mv4qq
why should there be wiggle room for a new car?
anything else and the price is FIXED.
in my mind, im thinking of Amazon or Ebay. MSRP for new and used goods have a negotiable price. unless theres a premium to add on; the price should be fixed.
*unless costs could be passed onto the buyer. like if you live closer to a car manufacting plant youd get a lower price, and higher the further you live from a car builder?
(this idea would suck but at least it makes financial sense to me)
if a toyota camry is 20k let it be 20k. PERIOD.
lets be like the europeans and have all taxes built into the sticker price. none of that gotcha stuff from add ons, taxes, and fees.
matter of fact, make the Company bear the burden of variable profit margins.
20k is 20k PERIOD. if you lived 50 miles from the manufactuer or in rural town washington state (that ackward part that is only accessible through canada)
2 weeks shipping would mean, LESS concrete lots around the USA. just go to any Dealership to test the Floor display, (same as a TV at Best buy) but the car would have hubs across the US.
i mean, how many people truly need same day cars? most folks did reaseach for the 2nd largest purchase. (idk if student loans made car purchases 3rd tier yet?)
100s of thousands for houses
20 to 80 thousand for education
and cars are also in the same price tier $2k to as high as $85k (with cars going both higher and lower, obviously but most cars 30k give or take 20k)
Just think of it like this:
only metro cities would have the actual stock of cars but minor cities would have unbranded places just to sign off.
so that dodge would have an agent just to let you sign confirmation od receiving your toyota.
again, this is for the useless concrete. meh $2000 no more just to ship and be a notary so that folks wont always have to drive from austin to houston, baton rouge la to houston, jackson mississipi to houston.
the Hubs for cars would be in every other state that would have ALL their fleet. and the current car dealerships would again be glorified notaries to sign off on the customer getting their car (fee of $2000)
meh, bah hum bug.
theres a million ways to change the car buying system but if nothing else GET RID OF THEM. too much concrete and too many fees, and too much negotiation.
better features for people with money, let discrimination not be based on haggling skills or unspoken racism but the "fair" racism: is their bank green or in the red.
Yea? No reason to have farmers, just grow your own food
Do your research up front. Don't "ask" the dealer anything. Tell them what you are willing to give them to make a deal. If the salesman has to "run the offer past his sales manager" realize that all your brilliant arguments will never make it to the deal maker. The salesman gets to persuade you, but you can't persuade the sales manager. Make it clear that you consider him to be an "order taker". "People don't do whatever they want, they do whatever you let them." Tommy Vercetti, Grand Theft Auto, Vice City (RIP, Ray Liotta.)
Thank you, your tips are super helpful. I am looking to buy a used reliable car soon.
I would like your opinion on 2017 impala with 32,000 miles at a cost of 21,000 with no warranty
When it's hard to get a new vehicle these days, I experienced that dealers are like "just take it if you want else there are others waiting to get it". I had an experience from Honda claiming that if you need the car you gotta pay for all those. They are not ready to remove any add-on. What to do then?
We had that "attitude" from our local Honda dealership. What did we do? We bought a Toyota Camry instead (of the Accord).
A very common dilemma. Use the internet to get prices from several dealers. You may have to waste time finding out what they "really" will do. The four car brands I would consider acceptable are: Toyota, Honda, Mazda and Subaru. Check out reviews on the car you are interested in. Every car has advantages and disadvantages. It's not going to be perfect in every respect, but it should get you from here to there. Make it clear that there is a different car (or dealer) you are willing to buy if you don't make a deal with them. Sometimes it's a seller's market (just like real estate). Car dealers have a right to get the best price for their car. Unfortunately.
Tied selling is Illegal. Tied selling is when the dealer forces you to purchase product in addition to the vehicle. A different TH-camr has a roleplay of how to negotiate with the dealer that is practicing tied selling. They have a documents from the FTC that you can provide to the dealer
Excellent advice ✅
#1 Tip get the dealer cost of the vehicle and ask how much profit they require. $500 over cost is fair.
#2 Never finance an automobile always pay cash. If you’re making monthly payments you’re driving a vehicle you can’t afford. The bank always pays you, you never pay the bank.
How do you find out dealer cost?
This is really bad advice.
- $500 over cost is too much. May be $200 max.
- And never pay finance; really? You can pay 20-25% down and invest the rest. Any decent ETFs will give you 5-15% gain every year. Which is technically saving you money rather than paying all cash to a commodity that depreciates the moment you roll it away from the dealer. Plus considering the price of cars these days, majority cannot afford cash payment for any car.
@@susanmeredith4957
APA, Car Cost Canada. There are plenty of reputable services. In fact they will even recommend professional dealers who willingly show you the cost and let you know the cost over price.
@@MasterXj-zb2mi
Incorrect. This is a tight automotive supply market. $500 is accurate. 2 years from now $200-$300 over cost will be accurate.
Let’s start with a bit of a reality check: new cars drop in value like a bag of rocks, losing 60% of their value in the first five years!This isn’t a smart investment. You really should only consider buying new if you have plenty of money to burn.
If you are making lease or finance payments you are losing money and have no business driving the automobile. Cars like Honda and Toyota will easily last 300,000 KMS. Save up your money and buy a good used car for $10,000 if a transportation device is absolutely required.
The average monthly car payment is $750. That amount invested wisely is $1.9 million dollars 30 years from now. Do you want $1 million dollars in your bank account between ages 25 and 50? Be an owner not a loaner. There are plenty of debt dummies on the verge of bankruptcy today.
Dumb people buy things they don't need with money they don’t have to impress people they don’t like.
I'd disagree to, but really...
1) depends on what you're trying to buy, because if it's high demand right now then good luck getting it for $200-500 over cost. Normally I'd agree, but right now isn't normal.
2) Cash hasn't been king in years. Your best bet is actually getting financing with no prepayment penalty and paying it off shortly after getting the car. You're more likely to get a decent price since dealers make a lot more off interest than they used to. Beyond that, you can (probably) make more money elsewhere depending on the interest rate you're being given. E.g. Mazda offered me a 2.9% on a CX5, I could get more than that on a CD easily. If I were buying used and had terrible credit, I'd go with the first option and pay off the car after financing, ~15% is hard to guarantee and not worth the risk.
An oil change already cost couple hundreds bucks. An inspection more likely 500
Excellent advice. Thank you.
Does MRSP price already include freight?
I wanna know that after placing factory order from honda how many days it take to get VIN number?
You should get the VIN from the dealer when your car has been manufactured, so about 4-6 weeks before delivery.
Let us make a video about RAV4 hybrid vs NX 350 h please. I love you man :)
Is the mitsubishi Mirage 2023 to 2024 a good first car for an Asian family of 4? I need to mention that because we are relatively small to medium size people.
Don't buy a Mirage, buy a Prius instead.
@sedonaarabella7595 why? Prius is expensive. Ill get a corolla instead of prius.
@@khenryking1091 you can get a Prius for less than $5000
should have studied this video clip before I had purchased my vehicle😢
Good idea!
Thank you.
I tried 4-5 dealer to book a Toyota rav4 but whenever I ask them to send me email quote they never reply back
They do, and they say "when can you come in to discuss further?"
We should go to walmart and demand cost on products so we can negotiate on bread and milk
Amazon should start selling cars straight from Manufacturers
Best video❤
I think you listed things out of order. It should be 1- cost of new car, 2- trade in offer, 3- finanacing. You'll know how much you need to finance after you factor trade-in and down payment. Getting the finance offer early can only give an interest rate no clue as to total finance cost and monthly payments. Also telling the dealership that you'll be contacting the manufacturer customer service to establish a line of communication incase of any problems that could happen from the purchase of a vehicle puts the dealership on notice up front. You can even establish that customer service contact prior to visiting the dealership if you're pretty sure they. Have the vehicle you want.
Can you come with me to the dealer, Shari⁉️😆
Seal ships will phase out next 20 years
Very handsome man
Very handsome
Item 4. Get it in writing. Absolute fact. My son in law bought a 2022 Taos from Belleville VW. For weeks we talked to the salesman, and other dealers about a remote start. The answer was the same. It's not available but will be soon. Getting the remote start was included in emails, phone calls and in person visits. Yeah yeah yeah.
On the day of pick up I asked that they make sure to write it on the bill that the remote is included when they're available. The salesman refused. The sales manager refused despite us showing them our correspondence. The sales manager went so far to say it hurts our margins. Say what? When the salesman was asked about it by the sales manager he flat out LIED right to her face saying we NEVER had the conversation. Short story long my son in law took the car, I lost it in the showroom and we reported their lies to VW Canada. VW Canada didn't give a shit.
We've bought 4 cars there but NEVER again.