My favourite part was "setting the relief angle" with the bent threaded rod and a drill bit :), that was awesome ingenuity, you know for us home shop guys this will work fine. Nicely done.
Good show sir, you can’t argue when it works. I dragged an antique tool and cutter grinder home one day for $50, don’t be too impressed though it is far from in good shape. Thank you for sharing.
Bardzo świetny filmik na jutubie i bardzo świetny pomyśł z tym wiertłem do betonu i tak z niego Powstał frezownik do metalu pozdrawiam twórcę tego filmiku i tego kanału na TH-cam 👍👍👍👍
Why does it feel like I got taken for a ride by the “no cutter grinder, no problem part” … ? I guess technically he didn’t have a dedicated cutter grinder but i don’t know if having a dedicated grinder post for your lathe classifies as fundamentally different 🤨. But I Enjoyed the show all the same!😅
I trust you have determined it is not worth the effort/work involved to figure out and execute ....unless of course ....you've all the time in the world and are satisfied with the end result. The actual cutting edge is not "jointed" ....meaning, very likely only one edge is actually providing the finished cut location and finish. This is one reason supporting replaceable inserts. .
@@stevohdee8118 rounded or angled will give a stronger corner, especially good for roughing cuts. Keep sharp cornered mills for finishing, if you need to cut a sharp corner. Although it is best to try to avoid an unnecessary sharp corner as in some applications it can become a stress raiser but frankly that is unlikely to be a problem as most home shop stuff is over strength to start with and is unlikely to be over stressed.
Your edges would last far longer if you did a 2 angle grind. A 2 to 5 degree "edge clearance", then about 10 more degrees (so 12 to 15) "relief". Get your edge clearance about 3mm wide, then back it with the relief. Puts more "meat" behind the cutting edge, so far more support than your ski slope relief, lol. Yours works, so it's not like "you done it wrong!", but more support equals longer edge life. But, that said, sweet job of improvising a working tool out of a well abused "junk" cutter, using somewhat less than ideal tooling!
Thanks for your info, i never sharpened a milling cutter before so just went for it. Another commenter pointed out that i had the wrong angle at the points so i studied new cutters and went dam, i missed that. So its been a real learning curve, thanks again, cheers
From the final finish shot, it seems like you forgot to angle the front clearance into the centre of the cutter......that is to enable the flutes to cut on the outer edges when you are side milling and keeps the centre of the cutter off the job........this gives the cutter end face a concave effect. I can't give you 10 out of 10 for this as you used an adjustable wrench on a machine.....that is the sign of a hack merchant not a machinist, but I would grudgingly say quite clever overall.
Thanks Ian, I did wonder about that angle, just checked a standard cutter & yes you are right, I will re-cut & see if I can get a better result. As for the spanner I really need to let the moths outa my wallet & buy one or 2, cheers
You need to test the cutter on the Z axis plunge cutting as thats the cutting points you sharpened . To achieve the same finish just sharpen 1 point and grind small releff on the other points this will turn the cutter into a small fly cuter run fast on alloy with fine feed and you will get a brill finish. also diamond wheel on only Hss cutter is ott . 5 stars for the idear and I love your cutting head.
I wish I had your rig. Just starting out and no dividing head ...no tool post grinder yada yada. Just a mini lathe. BUT I sharpen everything myself. I do it free hand with a dremel tool and diamond wheels. Not the fine stuff like reamers...that requires a different rig but still doable by hand.
Hey traffer, I've hand sharpened milling cutters the same way with fair results. I put the cutter in the drillpress and face the end by pressing down onto a diamond plate then regrind the edges with the side of a 20mm cutoff wheel. Is this what you use? Or a straight shank burr?
@@stevohdee8118 That's a great idea. But nope. I do it freehand with the dremel in one hand and the bit in the other. They don't come out looking very good but with trial and error you can sneak up on having them even and straight. ...mostly 2 flute endmills. I do the 4 flute but they end up looking really bad...but work for some applications.
Very impressive. I'm surprised you were able to obtain such a good surface finish with such a wide cutter on your Mini Mill. My Mini Mill struggles to do face milling with even a 1/2" end mill. Did you do anything to improve your mill's rigidity?
Hey Ian, I have only adjusted the gibs, nothing fancy. I've noticed with milling there's a speed & feed rate that suits certain cutters & a whole lot of info about material. Near the end of the vid on the last pass I slowed down the power feed a 'smidge', which produced a better finish. Fussy little machines. So adjust gibs, experiment, watch lots of machining videos & have fun, cheers mate
Nice save on the end mill, is the two piece vice a homemade, or store bought job, Steve?, I've thought about making one for my X2, because I've only seen them down to 6'' wide. Thanks, Scott.
@@stevohdee8118 Awesome, thanks, Steve, I'm in the process of making hold downs for my new screwless vice, woohoo, no more cheapsh!t mill vice, and I can see a homemade two piece in the works.
Gday pete, people make their own grinders because the commercially availiable are for larger lathes. Ive done 3 vids on home made units, the first 2 show what doesnt work, "TPG 3 third time lucky" is a solid unit that works well. I suggest a high torque variable speed motor coupled to a substantial bearing block is the best solution, best of luck, cheers
Do you have a link to the electric motor and ER collet holder that is attached? I have a similar one but the shaft is too small and it deflects a little too much for my liking.
Gday Nicholas, the motor was from a friend that does robotics, "unkermotoren BG42X30" made in Germany. Er16a collet chuck from ebay, they come in various shaft sizes. I've since upgraded tool post grinder, watch my vid TPG 3, the bearings in motor too small for good results, hope this helps, cheers
Well Gordon, thanks for such a technical question. Smidging is the universal term for minute adjustments regardless of one's region in the world. It is an acquired & required instinct for anyone playing with machinery, there is a fine line between yippee & grrr. Over Smidging will produce the grrr so I recommend sneak Smidging. You can always under smidge but over smidge @ your peril... Cheers haha
@@stevohdee8118 Thank you for that in-depth response. You have established a cultural bridge between machinists in England and the US. However, we are jealous of your beautiful freehand scribing!
@@gangleweed thanks Ian, just googled it, a smidge is the informal term for smidgen, which is spelt without the 'o'... Who knew? I've been calling it a smidge forever, may be an aussie thing but you are correct, haha cheers
Well you know there is also the "hair" and the "titch" ne c'est pas? Or is it "tidge" along the lines of tidgen? Which is which and what to do? That is the question only the hands can know . . .
or you can send your broken dull endmills to me and i will resharpen(for example) that 1" end for around $10 each. HSS or Carbide I recondition almost any machinist tools. J&A Grinding ventura ca 93003
@@stevohdee8118 Sorry i had no idea, thought you might be local . , 7 to 8 degrees on the primary angle(cutting angle) and double that for secondary with about 2 degrees taper to the center. You did just fine , nice job!! GOD bless
My favourite part was "setting the relief angle" with the bent threaded rod and a drill bit :), that was awesome ingenuity, you know for us home shop guys this will work fine. Nicely done.
thanks for your nice comment, yeah we make do a lot don't we, cheers
@@stevohdee8118 Hay even us pro's make do just get the job done
Good show sir, you can’t argue when it works. I dragged an antique tool and cutter grinder home one day for $50, don’t be too impressed though it is far from in good shape. Thank you for sharing.
Excelentes. Trabajos maestro ingeniería. Pura felicidad es
Bardzo świetny filmik na jutubie i bardzo świetny pomyśł z tym wiertłem do betonu i tak z niego Powstał frezownik do metalu pozdrawiam twórcę tego filmiku i tego kanału na TH-cam 👍👍👍👍
Why does it feel like I got taken for a ride by the “no cutter grinder, no problem part” … ? I guess technically he didn’t have a dedicated cutter grinder but i don’t know if having a dedicated grinder post for your lathe classifies as fundamentally different 🤨. But I Enjoyed the show all the same!😅
Great to see somone sharpening tool bits ive met tradesmen that think once a drill is blunt you throw it away 😂
Often its cheaper to buy a new one. Cost of my time vs cost of tool.
You magnificent bastard! Well done :D
"Necessity the mother of all invention".
Thanks for sharing, at first this looks very sketchy but you've done a fine job. And I love the music.👍
Thanks for your nice comment... Cheers
Excellent job! I've got a 20mm cutter that needs similar treatment - you've given me hope. 😎
Nice, let me know how ya go , cheers
Makes hand sharpening drill bits look easy.
very sharp now, nice
Thanks, its actually my favorite cutter, the cheap stuff doesnt leave a great finish and goes blunt easily
Very nicely done
I really love the backing stiffer on your demond wheel they never run true
I trust you have determined it is not worth the effort/work involved to figure out and execute ....unless of course ....you've all the time in the world and are satisfied with the end result. The actual cutting edge is not "jointed" ....meaning, very likely only one edge is actually providing the finished cut location and finish. This is one reason supporting replaceable inserts.
.
Aprovado
Valeu muito obrigado!!!.
Very creative.
I might have been tempted to grind an angled corner rather than a sharp one, for strength and finish, but you did good.
Hey Chris, buy angled do u mean round? Because I'm toying with the idea of rounding the points like a lathe cutter.... Hmm
@@stevohdee8118 rounded or angled will give a stronger corner, especially good for roughing cuts. Keep sharp cornered mills for finishing, if you need to cut a sharp corner. Although it is best to try to avoid an unnecessary sharp corner as in some applications it can become a stress raiser but frankly that is unlikely to be a problem as most home shop stuff is over strength to start with and is unlikely to be over stressed.
Good job.
Your lathe, with the indexing attachement and the toolpost mounted spindle, makes a decent approximation of a cutter grinder....
Thanks foggy
Отличная работа!!!
Thats more like a resurface rather then sharpening.
Your edges would last far longer if you did a 2 angle grind. A 2 to 5 degree "edge clearance", then about 10 more degrees (so 12 to 15) "relief". Get your edge clearance about 3mm wide, then back it with the relief. Puts more "meat" behind the cutting edge, so far more support than your ski slope relief, lol. Yours works, so it's not like "you done it wrong!", but more support equals longer edge life. But, that said, sweet job of improvising a working tool out of a well abused "junk" cutter, using somewhat less than ideal tooling!
Thanks for your info, i never sharpened a milling cutter before so just went for it. Another commenter pointed out that i had the wrong angle at the points so i studied new cutters and went dam, i missed that. So its been a real learning curve, thanks again, cheers
Ну, разумеется! Подумаешь, нет заточного...токарный ведь всегда под рукой! У всех и каждого.)))
Ну вы ребята молодцы! А я до сих пор напильником затачиваю...
Да,да чем крупнее напильник тем лучше и острее
Nice job done with that cutter ! 👍👍👍
Lovely video
What a great lesson in sharpening. Thanks. Where can I buy a 40 x 2mm diamond grinder disc?
Gday Danny, yeah just search eBay for 40mm diamond disc 8mm shank will find it, cheers
ottimo lavoro bravo
Quite tidy indeed!
From the final finish shot, it seems like you forgot to angle the front clearance into the centre of the cutter......that is to enable the flutes to cut on the outer edges when you are side milling and keeps the centre of the cutter off the job........this gives the cutter end face a concave effect.
I can't give you 10 out of 10 for this as you used an adjustable wrench on a machine.....that is the sign of a hack merchant not a machinist, but I would grudgingly say quite clever overall.
Thanks Ian, I did wonder about that angle, just checked a standard cutter & yes you are right, I will re-cut & see if I can get a better result. As for the spanner I really need to let the moths outa my wallet & buy one or 2, cheers
@@stevohdee8118 OK....you're forgiven.....my hats off for the ingenuity.
Excelente, soy tu nuevo suscriptor 👍
Thanks fernando
Fantastic whork fantastic tools👍👍. Amazing homemade ✌️✌️✌️✌️ Bravo 💪💪
You need to test the cutter on the Z axis plunge cutting as thats the cutting points you sharpened . To achieve the same finish just sharpen 1 point and grind small releff on the other points this will turn the cutter into a small fly cuter run fast on alloy with fine feed and you will get a brill finish. also diamond wheel on only Hss cutter is ott . 5 stars for the idear and I love your cutting head.
Thanks Geoff, I'll give that a try, cheers
I knew you were in Australia. Recognised the green waste bags
Aussie, Aussie ,Aussie...dam , I've been outed haha
@@stevohdee8118 Mate, there's no way you could be anywhere else with the descriptive comments you put on the vid! 🤣
I wish I had your rig. Just starting out and no dividing head ...no tool post grinder yada yada. Just a mini lathe. BUT I sharpen everything myself. I do it free hand with a dremel tool and diamond wheels. Not the fine stuff like reamers...that requires a different rig but still doable by hand.
Hey traffer, I've hand sharpened milling cutters the same way with fair results. I put the cutter in the drillpress and face the end by pressing down onto a diamond plate then regrind the edges with the side of a 20mm cutoff wheel. Is this what you use? Or a straight shank burr?
@@stevohdee8118 That's a great idea. But nope. I do it freehand with the dremel in one hand and the bit in the other. They don't come out looking very good but with trial and error you can sneak up on having them even and straight. ...mostly 2 flute endmills. I do the 4 flute but they end up looking really bad...but work for some applications.
I touch them up with the bench grinder at work all the time..lol nice
Rŕ
Rrrrŕr
Rrrrrtrrrrrrr
R9r
Rrrrtŕrrrrrrrrrŕrŕ
Bravo
Muito bom seu trabalho abraço fique com deus que deus abençoa todos nós
Very impressive. I'm surprised you were able to obtain such a good surface finish with such a wide cutter on your Mini Mill. My Mini Mill struggles to do face milling with even a 1/2" end mill. Did you do anything to improve your mill's rigidity?
Hey Ian, I have only adjusted the gibs, nothing fancy. I've noticed with milling there's a speed & feed rate that suits certain cutters & a whole lot of info about material. Near the end of the vid on the last pass I slowed down the power feed a 'smidge', which produced a better finish. Fussy little machines. So adjust gibs, experiment, watch lots of machining videos & have fun, cheers mate
3:31 что такое факинг тхэ схарп битс евен?
What is that grinder wheel you using called 🤔 and where can get one?
Well i call it "the beast" coz its so aggressive. Try ebay, diamond wheels, 40mm x 3mm thick, 8mm shaft, you should find it
my saw company only charge five quid to sharpen them properly its just not worth the time
are you trying to drill in to the grinding wheel when sharpening the faces? :D
hello great job. where can i find the diamond cutter?
Gday Giovanni, Search eBay, 40mm diamond grinding discs, this will find both types I used, cheers
you don't need a diamond cutter as it was HSS he was grinding. Diamond wheels can be used on hss but usually for Carbide!
Excellent.
Man, I love me some diamond abrasives
Nice save on the end mill, is the two piece vice a homemade, or store bought job, Steve?, I've thought about making one for my X2, because I've only seen them down to 6'' wide.
Thanks,
Scott.
Hey Scott, vice is home made, there's detailed pics on homemade tools.net, just search stevohdee, cheers
@@stevohdee8118 Awesome, thanks, Steve, I'm in the process of making hold downs for my new screwless vice, woohoo, no more cheapsh!t mill vice, and I can see a homemade two piece in the works.
Where can I get that tool post grinder?
Gday pete, people make their own grinders because the commercially availiable are for larger lathes. Ive done 3 vids on home made units, the first 2 show what doesnt work, "TPG 3 third time lucky" is a solid unit that works well. I suggest a high torque variable speed motor coupled to a substantial bearing block is the best solution, best of luck, cheers
Do you have a link to the electric motor and ER collet holder that is attached? I have a similar one but the shaft is too small and it deflects a little too much for my liking.
Gday Nicholas, the motor was from a friend that does robotics, "unkermotoren BG42X30" made in Germany. Er16a collet chuck from ebay, they come in various shaft sizes. I've since upgraded tool post grinder, watch my vid TPG 3, the bearings in motor too small for good results, hope this helps, cheers
Steve, how does the English smidge compare with an American skosh (we stole this from the Japanese . . . skoshee)?
Well Gordon, thanks for such a technical question. Smidging is the universal term for minute adjustments regardless of one's region in the world. It is an acquired & required instinct for anyone playing with machinery, there is a fine line between yippee & grrr. Over Smidging will produce the grrr so I recommend sneak Smidging. You can always under smidge but over smidge @ your peril... Cheers haha
@@stevohdee8118 Thank you for that in-depth response. You have established a cultural bridge between machinists in England and the US. However, we are jealous of your beautiful freehand scribing!
@@stevohdee8118 ....and if you want to take off a small amount its a smidgeon.
@@gangleweed thanks Ian, just googled it, a smidge is the informal term for smidgen, which is spelt without the 'o'... Who knew? I've been calling it a smidge forever, may be an aussie thing but you are correct, haha cheers
Well you know there is also the "hair" and the "titch" ne c'est pas? Or is it "tidge" along the lines of tidgen? Which is which and what to do? That is the question only the hands can know . . .
Tell me about that indexing plate...is that a lock hasp i see?! Man we need to hang out lol.
Thanks RDF, yeah looks a lot like a pad bolt or slide bolt, haha cheers
the vise you're using on the mill did you make that can you give a better picture of it
Sure Keith, just dial in stevohdee to homemadetools.net, it's in there somewhere, cheers
The drill bit relief creator, dbrc for short.
Haha... Nice
Better than nothing i guess
or you can send your broken dull endmills to me and i will resharpen(for example) that 1" end for around $10 each. HSS or Carbide I recondition almost any machinist tools. J&A Grinding ventura ca 93003
Thanks Steve, just calculated the postage from South Australia to California, kinda doesn't work but thanks anyway haha
@@stevohdee8118 Sorry i had no idea, thought you might be local . , 7 to 8 degrees on the primary angle(cutting angle) and double that for secondary with about 2 degrees taper to the center. You did just fine , nice job!! GOD bless
even if it hadnt worked it was still cool
you can do that with a piece of wood
relief angle 3 to 5 ?
Yeah, about that I recon, I just set it with the drillbit under the tool post grinder block to set angle, cheers
👍
4:40 - what on earth are you wearing? Oh it’s a cat...,
No, no, noooooooooo.
can do it with bare hands.....
Andre reznte
Avuç taşlamayı ders çevir
Yada aynayı tornanın
cut som steeel now bet i dont
i dont think u no the right way to do it do u
Muita moagem pra afiar perde muito tempo
Het Jorge, o tempo é meu para desperdiçar e este é agora o meu cortador favorito, saúde
Ciao, Ciao bambino
va dormir
ur cutting aluminum.big fukin deal
das vid ist umsonst und deine arbeit auch.