at what cost. there is a reason why it doesnt make economic sense in every sense of the word economic. the factory is set up much more efficiently. getting a new one and letting themetal go to scrap is more environmentally friendly and cheaper becuause the dude has to pay for his food during learning and cleaning the fork. in stead of working two hours at the job he already does well.
The bike shops are all booked solid these days and I was quite intimidated to work on my daughter's bike's jammed forks. Watched video, and am now certified hero. Thank you.
@@sebastiankerr427 The lowers were totally seized and never came off. I tried all the degreasers in the world and a car jack between the crown and lowers, but it never budged. Ended up getting the Rockshox xc-28 off eBay. Way better fork.
Your video was nearly 100% helpful. My suspension fork was not frozen by any means, but just wasn't riding right. It wasn't as "complex" as yours. After watching your video (and memorizing as much as I could), I took mine apart and discovered that it was filthy and was "storing" a little water. I cleaned and lubed everything as you showed and now it works good. Thank you.
Warren Linke Hell yeah!!! Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
Thank you for this video! I was inquiring recently with the local Trek bike shop about replacing my suspension fork or having it overhauled. They said no to both which makes me believe that their interest is only in selling high dollar new bikes. I have a '06 Trek Multitrack 7500 with an RST fork much like the one in this video. As a matter of fact my fork is in better physical shape, as is the whole bicycle. I looked online and the fork seal kit is available and I will get the slickoleum from Amazon and try my hand at this overhaul. What made me notice that my fork was stiff was that I recently test rode a new electric bike and obviously the new suspension fork worked much easier. I’ve done a lot of DIY maintenance to my Trek and will keep it along with buying my choice of an Aventon Level.2 ebike this summer.
I like the shocks with the socks, they work better than people think they are, I have some rst 60mm on my mongoose pro dx 3.5 and the socks saved it from dirt and rust
You definitely have a love for repairing things. I can appreciate the detail and step by step on how to repair these! Much success to you my friend! Looking at my forks now. Hope they don't drip with water from them! lol
Mike Jackson yeah....they don't like that! It's good 2 read positive comments on videos~especially b/c this guy genuinely just wants 2 helps others 2 help themselves ~
I looked for two weeks for a video like this, and today it just popped into my feed. I have a similar problem with a sun your fork, also on an old Trek. Great video, thanks!
Thank you RJ for the very helpful video. Instead of Scotch Brite, I typically use Brillo pads which are steel wool impregnated with de-greasing soap. For corrosion, I also use a wire brush attachment to a hand drill sometimes. For vinegar, I use instead Evapo Rust, from Tractor Supply, which is easier on the hands compared to the acetic acid in the vinegar. Hope this is helpful for the community. Regards, Colin
Thanks for very informative video. I just serviced similar Gila T5 of my 2005 Nishiki Bushwhacker I've converted into commuter e-bike with beefy road tyres. The bolts on the lowers were just turning and turning. The only way I was able to get them out was to hold the rod steady from inside the stanchions with 5mm allen socket attached to socket driver with couple of extensions that I happened to have. I could barely reach the rod from above and finally got the bolts apart. There was quite a bit of rust also in my forks and stanchions had rusty stains, I bet they haven't been serviced ever. Got it quite good for with it is with lot of cleaning and good greasing. Did also use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth the stanchions. Mine didn't have any elastomers inside the spring coils. So, these are quite like pogo-sticks without any dampening. Let's see how comfortable they are on curbs and other rough spots. I'm not using this as MTB anyways.
If they are not moving, they might be able to be fixed. If they are rusted, then I would probably pass, and unless it is minor. I have gotten a few bikes where I attempted to fix the forks, but they were trashed.
Hey RJ, I have already purchased the bike, disassembled, cleaned, lubed the folks and it is working great. No problems at all. It's a 2007 yellow / silver Trek 4300 that is 8.5, maybe higher on a 10 scale. So glad you posted this video. thank you!
oh man I love this kind of RAW videos where they really struggle and come up with all sorts of ideas how to make it through... perfect for DiY'ers like me SALUTE Sir!!!
This seems to be the exact front fork I have on my 2007 trek 4300. Awesome, great resource. Currently 3d printing the wrench to remove the upper plastic caps.
This video is gold! Have a pair of bikes, Trek 2005 3700 and a 2005 Gary Fischer, both have surface rust on the pistons but work fine. Still want to take them apart and clean and lube them up, 11 years old, it's time! Need a pair of top boots, mine are dried and split. Both bikes are in great shape overall except for the fork pistons. Thanks to this video there's no guess work now when I take these apart. I purchased these bikes new and had them in storage for a few years, should have packed them in grease, Florida is the rust capitol of the country. Thanks for this video, looks like a fun job.
I have to say, you are about the only guy who bothers to repair these kind of forks. Most just toss them. I take it you have a good business in fixing up bikes and selling them for a profit. I just don't know if I would have your patience,lol. Its really good to see someone fixing these up as now folks have somewhere to go if they choose to fix their bike, and it saves bikes from going to the dump. I have seen some nice bikes just get tossed over the most trivial things.
schlooonginator if you're rehabbing a vintage frame with v or cantilever brakes, there aren't many affordable options and it doesn't make much sense to put a $300 fork on a heavy steel bike. A well serviced set of vintage forks will perform adequately on an old bike like this.
You might ant to think about going with a magnetic pickup tool to retrieve future springs at he bottom of upper tubes. It'd be a little quicker. Most auto parts store will have at least two sizes. A shotgun bore brush might help clean the insides of the tubes too. That was an impressive technique you used to guide the bolts with wire into the lower tubes.
I've found rubbing aluminum foil on to the stancheons with some wd40 a good way to remove some corrosion. Plus a little scotch bright pad or fine sand paper
Interesting hint, have not tried that with Aluminum! automotive finish wet/dry sandpaper with water also leaves a very nice smooth finish in the 600-800 range start with rougher. Since this fork doesn't rely on any "sealing" it all spring and grease it doesn't matter if you have fine scratches. Not something you'd do to more exotic forks!!!
@@edwardmulder3777 Thanks - FYI, I have a friend who takes badly rusted items and uses a battery charger and tub of water or something (escapes me at moment) to use electrolysis to remove the rust from things and free them solid parts. Different than this repair but didn't know if you had tried that.
I just cant believe how some people treat they bikes. I do restore/fix/rebuilt bikes myself and sometimes there are things you would not beleive . And I am not talking chep bikes here . Great tutorial .
I have a job to do like that on one of my grandson’s bike , never done a fork job before but the video is informative and l know what’s to expect when l do the strip down . I ‘m and old mechanic from the 50’s to which l was a top guy , but with these later bikes l find l am still learning all new things . I went on to be a motorcycle mechanic and then furthered my knowledge as a vehicle mechanic in the forces . I love your videos 👍
Same I have a seized set of T4 forks on my old Norco I got when I was 16. Forks aren't original to the bike, but the bike is now 20 years old. I just want to ride it again.
I had serious doubts about this video, but you have some skills, RJ. I love renovating old bikes, but I thought these crappy forks were throwaway, and you proved otherwise. Nicely done.
Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
Nice to see an instructional that actually deals with one of those stupid awkward jobs that are normally edited away. I find all these simple jobs have a tendency to develop into major time eating nightmares that leave you wondering if it's even worth doing on a £50 set of forks. Another good trick for removing rust from the shiny bits is to use Cola and tinfoil. Works like magic
RJ, I use a dremel with a small gentle wire brush wheel to polish the outer tubes. Don't apply pressure, just lightly polish. It takes a little time, but cleans the surface corrosion off of it nicely, back to original metal.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Cheapest and minimally abrasive as a lapping compound for the outer stanchions just might be toothpaste with a Scotchbrite. Commenter Miranda's Shotgun cleaning kit sounds ideal for the inner fork tubes. A 12Gauge kit is roughly 3/4 inch wide in bore diameter, inexpensive, and includes often, soft plastic and or brass wire brushes and diaper snakes,lol. You might find a kit for a few bucks at a yard sale prowl. I have a 2003 TREK 4900 with a ROCKSHOX PILOT C that needs a massage. I don't think you overhauled one of those but it appears similar to this with magnesium lowers. Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to you RJ ( you rock!) and Mrs Bike Gal,phil
Thank you for this video. I just got a Specialized Hotrock in my shop with a seized RST shock. Was trying to decide which way was best to unseize them.
Another great video, great stepby step instructions easy and a pleasure to follow and understand. You sir are a great problem solver,most people wouldve gave up and ignored the for sale sign on the bike in the first place but as always you know how to be kind to the environment and extend the life of a neglected old bike, much kudos to you and please keep up all the great work.
I've got a different brand of forks than these, that are seized, but I'm pretty sure that after watching this video, I'll now be able to get them working again, so many thanks for the time you took to make this video. It was very detailed and informative.
When you take your loved old bike to repair and the guy of the bike shop says: "Get a new one, that's impossible to fix". And you awnser: "I know a youtube channel...."
It's more like it's not worth the shop time to fix it. You can buy a new one for less than the cost of the overhaul. But if you can do the work yourself, by all means do it.
Last time I rebuilt a stuck fork a friend of mine suggested filling up both sides with transmission fluid, I let them soak overnight and everything came out fairly easy, then I stuck a scotch bright pad on a coat hanger hooked up to a drill to clean out the fork tubes, I use the same scotch bright coat hanger combo on seat tubes
very informative video.... I remember when I was in 7th or 8th grade I used to steal little containers of grease from my teachers that they used on slide projectors. I always used the grease on my headset, and I used to charge my friends $1.50 to grease the bearings in their bottom bracket. I was a bad kid haha...good times!
I remember when I was a teacher I used to steal brake pads and seats from kids bikes and charge my fellow teachers $5 and $10 to put them on their bikes.
@@kasperii You think ?? Yes it's a ridiculous joke but I will make sure I check with you before making any more sarcastic remarks. It's amazing you made no comment on Vortec Mob who's (not) funny comment has been sitting here for 5 years and is probably 100% true..... smfh !
It is also possible to get the lockring side out by pushing down on the sylinder, shimming something between the bold and the fork, and then holding the sylinder fixed while turning. The extra leverage against the threads does it.
I have the plus version of these forks with my specialized mine wore so bad like actually rusted the springs were stuck together with rust but I still managed to restore them and they work like brand new again
A Rollinson Exactly! Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
this was exactly the video I was looking for, and a very common problem for 10-20 year old unserviced mountain bikes sitting in garages that you find at yard sales
you are the man, amazing and thank you so much, you have turned me into bike revamping freak, but I don't have a big workshop, I do it in my 3/F roof top glass house, now I am working on an Australian made dual suspension bike with a RST 280 spring fork, I got the bike for HK$199 which is about US$25, all the parts are junk, broken crank set, I have successfully used your method to pull out the drive side and have to cut the other side to remove the crank arm, yet I have to remove and replace everything else, which would be a fun project.
Man that quite a task as in time consumption but hey beats buying new shocks or second hand ones that may not work as well as a overhaul. Thanks for the video and time !
I just serviced a set of Gila T6 shocks that I bought on eBay. They weren't seized up but well on their way as a bunch of water leaked out as soon as I removed the lower bolts. The plunger rod on one side was pretty corroded but cleaned up fine as did everything else. My stanchion tubes are nearly pristeen. Lubed up everything heavily as the seals probably aren't the best at keeping the water out. Too bad parts for these are hard to find.
Great video, good for every one to see the perseverance needed to fix anything properly. Most people would of given up and bought new ones. Thumbs up from me dude.
I got a Trek 3500 with frozen fork for 90 bucks, is works good even without suspension, but i am gonna buy a new one for 75 bucks... i do not have time to do all all this....great video RJ
Thanks man I prefer cheap forks as I don't off road I've never had a driving license so been riding nearly 60 years as an ex powerlifter my joints are in an awful state so I just need something to take the bump's out of the road . Great video 👍
David Burt Exactly! Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
i had done most everything except tear apart a shock , dident know where to start even. this video is perfect , i just hope i can get the ancient shocks on a proflex 435 to work again . cant exactly replace them .
RJ I LOVE your videos and what you can do with any bike. As an inner city kid from The Bronx , New York , I ride A full sus mtb aggressively in the city lol and I come to your videos more often then not just to see you work your magic. Keep on , keeping on.
hi,i do same problem remove fork solid right hand sometime problem!i found you teach show tool wrench driver fast well!that why i brought new fork today.
I have a trek 7100 multitrack bike and the front suspension started coming apart. These are rst shocks but they are not built like the ones in this video. Please do a video on how to repair these kind of shocks or any kind of help will be appreciated. I love this bike and want to fix it.
Lotta work for an inexpensive fork ... Depends on what the bike will ultimately do ... Prolly a good candidate for an eBike conversion :D In a rough patch like the corroded sections, I run crocus cloth and penetrating oil to knock off any microscopic sharp edges that were formed. It makes the rubber bits last longer.
Hey there. I think I've got the exact kind of bike you have in the video. Thank you so much for the impact wrench tip. I had given up on being able to open them at all but that worked for me. Made it through to trying to remove the inner stack and they just won't budge. I beat the hell out of them from both sides. Going to leave them overnight with some oil in them and try tomorrow. If anyone has any other tips for unsticking them I'm all ears. If all else fails I might try heating the outer tubes a bit with a heat gun but I don't want to melt anything.
Much more fun to watch the same bikes serviced that we've ridden as well, compared to any dream build on YT. I was sure the fork is kaputt when water started pouring out from the legs... Nice work!
Love the videos. Just thinking two lengths of PVC pipe with a cap on the bottom. Slide over the top part of the forks once the bottom half is removed and fill with A.S.vinegar. Removes rust from inside and out with no paper towel required and better saturation.
I haven't taken one of those apart. And there isn't much in the way of documentation on RST shocks. So you pretty much have to open them up and see what's inside.
I just picked up some of that Totally Awesome degreaser from the Dollar Tree today. I feel quite validated seeing that it is what you use. It did a better job cleaning my chain than the Park Tool stuff that costs 16x as much.
There is a lot to this. Not sure I am brave enough to take my bike apart yet. but I will think about it after I watch this 50 more times. lol. I just cleaned up the outside of the forks as best I could and used some Pen oil. the forks are a bit sticky. we will see. Course I am four years late to the party but still find this very useful. thanks.
Great video.. Would you have any tips for removing elastomers that are stuck inside the fork tube. I have removed the top cap and spring/spacer but the elastomers are stuck, seemingly from dried up grease . Forks are Rockshox Indy SL. Thanks.
Hey RJ, keep up the great vids. Just got some similar RST forks free again. I think my preload adjusters are broken. Can you do a short video just showing these sort of preload adjusters out of the forks and how they should operate, please?
Best video explaination. Never done it before. I did not see you use the long Allen wrench at regaining to removed the bottom suspension. Was that required to removed it? Will I need to go buy the long Allen wrench for this procedure? Thanks.
Hi RJ. That was a nice video. i have Gila T6 Suspension. I am facing an issue that the preload adjustor on top of the fork is rotating freely i.e. it is not getting stopped at either end. Any solutions to this?
A good, quick, surface rust remover to use in addition to scotchbrite pads is auto chrome wheel cleaner. Spray on, let sit a few minutes, scrub, hose off.
Thanks! As a guy who's done some of these fix it videos I enjoyed it, wasn't sure you were going to win! On the stuck side, would PB Blaster harm the fork? I use a lot on cars. Also since the fork is not a air or oil fork why not use some 400grit sandpaper on legs? Maybe a parts washer would help since you do this regularly! I'm going to use this info just got daughter a bike where the RST fork is travel restricted.
I don't want to use anything that might damage plastic or rubber parts. 400 grit sandpaper would scratch the heck out of the chrome. I have a parts washer, but usually too much of a hassle to pull it out. Also, most people don't have a parts washer.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks, I was able to tear into the RST fork after viewing your video to see what was involved and although it was in great shape compared to this one you showed, there was a bit of water in one leg and the T shaped thing that sticks out into the lower was corroded some which i think was restricting movement. There were two soft rubber washers for travel limits and one broke in two, the other was split on one side..but just used sticky grease to hold in place and reassembled. The spacer in the lower seems to limit travel into bottom legs, might try removing it and getting some elastomers if I ever open it up again, but its for a campus bike for daughter. I was guessing at the grit of sandpaper but I took a high-end stainless cooktop I got cheap with bad rust stains and used automotive wet-or-dry sandpaper of 600-1000 grit & water and you'd be surprised at how well that worked - too well actually - as the cooktop started to look like chrome and wife told me to "rough it back up" LOL. Of course these stanchions will rust again no matter what if ridden wet on your bike as hard to stop but on this non-air fork should be fine! The rebuilt fork is now working a LOT smoother. :)
RJ, Thanks for the how to!!! I have this exact 4300 (different color) and thought they were blown b/c no oil...turns out they NEVER HAD ANY! I will freshen them up as you've shown me here and sell the bike. I've been gifted a Trek 4900 w/discs and it's lighter-I'll hit you up on your FB page!-) Thanks again!!!
RJ, how do you feel about using steel wool to remove corrosion? It seems to work well, but I wasn't sure if I was causing damage in the end with the abrasiveness or causing problems with all of the little fibers that seem to fall off. Thanks
Very nice instruction video - are the instructions valid for a RST Gila T4 too? Bought a second hand bike yesterday and I've never had a bike with suspension fork before....
were the lockouts on the forks engaged/partially engaged rj?,according to things iv'e read on the net the lockouts are notorious for getting stuck or broken on rst forks,even some of the more expensive ones break too.
I have this problem! But how do I get the bottom screws out if I don't have that impact drill? The screws just keep spinning and I cannot compress the fork at all unfortunately
Nice tutorial, RJ. Thank you. Anyone can buy a new fork. Making something work that would otherwise be unusable is where it's at. I like the fact that you fix the 'unfixable'. I learned a few things from you AND I have this fork ...frozen. Nicely done.
Unfortunately frozen/rusted forks are hit or miss. I have gotten bitten by a few of them that just weren't repairable, or after being overhauled just were not up to snuff. I have gotten a bit leery of buying bikes with fork like that.
Thank you for your videos pelon . They encourage me continuing working on my bike. I'm fixing my Schwinn with 190cl shockers broke I need the springs. Both springs are broken any suggestions where to get it? Please lmk thanks the vet
![[ASMR] Restoration Old Bike Suspension Fork](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/W18y8IG-58o/mqdefault.jpg)
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от ржавчены попробуй уксусную кислоту и оберни сверху салофаном
Were you able to find a seal kit?And if so where?
You know, you are one of the most environmentally friendly you tubers ever. I respect how you save bikes from the scrapheap.
at what cost. there is a reason why it doesnt make economic sense in every sense of the word economic. the factory is set up much more efficiently. getting a new one and letting themetal go to scrap is more environmentally friendly and cheaper becuause the dude has to pay for his food during learning and cleaning the fork. in stead of working two hours at the job he already does well.
The bike shops are all booked solid these days and I was quite intimidated to work on my daughter's bike's jammed forks. Watched video, and am now certified hero. Thank you.
I just got this exact same bike used with the same fork seized up. Talk about a perfect find of a video.
same!
@@sebastiankerr427 The lowers were totally seized and never came off. I tried all the degreasers in the world and a car jack between the crown and lowers, but it never budged. Ended up getting the Rockshox xc-28 off eBay. Way better fork.
CoderShare i fully unseized mine, greased and all, but they’re stiff as hell, even with no preload. you made the right choice switching.
Same!!!
That was brilliant. So good to watch someone overcome real life problems in DIY. Thankyou.
Your video was nearly 100% helpful. My suspension fork was not frozen by any means, but just wasn't riding right. It wasn't as "complex" as yours. After watching your video (and memorizing as much as I could), I took mine apart and discovered that it was filthy and was "storing" a little water. I cleaned and lubed everything as you showed and now it works good. Thank you.
I got an old Diamondback here in Kuwait with seized RST's. This video is IT! Gonna get them unstuck and cleaned up! Great video.
Warren Linke Hell yeah!!! Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
Thank you for this video! I was inquiring recently with the local Trek bike shop about replacing my suspension fork or having it overhauled. They said no to both which makes me believe that their interest is only in selling high dollar new bikes. I have a '06 Trek Multitrack 7500 with an RST fork much like the one in this video. As a matter of fact my fork is in better physical shape, as is the whole bicycle. I looked online and the fork seal kit is available and I will get the slickoleum from Amazon and try my hand at this overhaul. What made me notice that my fork was stiff was that I recently test rode a new electric bike and obviously the new suspension fork worked much easier. I’ve done a lot of DIY maintenance to my Trek and will keep it along with buying my choice of an Aventon Level.2 ebike this summer.
RJ is the Bob Ross of bike repair.
I like the shocks with the socks, they work better than people think they are, I have some rst 60mm on my mongoose pro dx 3.5 and the socks saved it from dirt and rust
You definitely have a love for repairing things. I can appreciate the detail and step by step on how to repair these! Much success to you my friend! Looking at my forks now. Hope they don't drip with water from them! lol
Mike Jackson yeah....they don't like that! It's good 2 read positive comments on videos~especially b/c this guy genuinely just wants 2 helps others 2 help themselves ~
I looked for two weeks for a video like this, and today it just popped into my feed. I have a similar problem with a sun your fork, also on an old Trek. Great video, thanks!
Thank you RJ for the very helpful video. Instead of Scotch Brite, I typically use Brillo pads which are steel wool impregnated with de-greasing soap. For corrosion, I also use a wire brush attachment to a hand drill sometimes. For vinegar, I use instead Evapo Rust, from Tractor Supply, which is easier on the hands compared to the acetic acid in the vinegar. Hope this is helpful for the community. Regards, Colin
To Colin. I do the same thing on chrome. Learned it body working cars. Things rust here in Hawaii. Take care and safe riding brother! Aloha
Thanks for very informative video. I just serviced similar Gila T5 of my 2005 Nishiki Bushwhacker I've converted into commuter e-bike with beefy road tyres. The bolts on the lowers were just turning and turning. The only way I was able to get them out was to hold the rod steady from inside the stanchions with 5mm allen socket attached to socket driver with couple of extensions that I happened to have. I could barely reach the rod from above and finally got the bolts apart. There was quite a bit of rust also in my forks and stanchions had rusty stains, I bet they haven't been serviced ever. Got it quite good for with it is with lot of cleaning and good greasing. Did also use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth the stanchions.
Mine didn't have any elastomers inside the spring coils. So, these are quite like pogo-sticks without any dampening. Let's see how comfortable they are on curbs and other rough spots. I'm not using this as MTB anyways.
Just picked up the exact frame and fork for $10 and the fork was ceased. Perfect video at the perfect time! Thank you!
I found a really good deal on a Trek 4300 this morning and passed on it because it's shocks were frozen. Going back tomorrow. Thank you RJ!
If they are not moving, they might be able to be fixed. If they are rusted, then I would probably pass, and unless it is minor. I have gotten a few bikes where I attempted to fix the forks, but they were trashed.
Hey RJ, I have already purchased the bike, disassembled, cleaned, lubed the folks and it is working great. No problems at all. It's a 2007 yellow / silver Trek 4300 that is 8.5, maybe higher on a 10 scale. So glad you posted this video. thank you!
oh man I love this kind of RAW videos where they really struggle and come up with all sorts of ideas how to make it through... perfect for DiY'ers like me SALUTE Sir!!!
My RST Gila fork was also rusted and stuck. Because of your outstanding video I succeeded in repairing my fork! Keep up the good work👍👍
This seems to be the exact front fork I have on my 2007 trek 4300. Awesome, great resource. Currently 3d printing the wrench to remove the upper plastic caps.
This video is gold! Have a pair of bikes, Trek 2005 3700 and a 2005 Gary Fischer, both have surface rust on the pistons but work fine. Still want to take them apart and clean and lube them up, 11 years old, it's time! Need a pair of top boots, mine are dried and split. Both bikes are in great shape overall except for the fork pistons.
Thanks to this video there's no guess work now when I take these apart. I purchased these bikes new and had them in storage for a few years, should have packed them in grease, Florida is the rust capitol of the country.
Thanks for this video, looks like a fun job.
I have to say, you are about the only guy who bothers to repair these kind of forks. Most just toss them.
I take it you have a good business in fixing up bikes and selling them for a profit.
I just don't know if I would have your patience,lol.
Its really good to see someone fixing these up as now folks have somewhere to go if they choose to fix their bike, and it saves bikes from going to the dump.
I have seen some nice bikes just get tossed over the most trivial things.
schlooonginator if you're rehabbing a vintage frame with v or cantilever brakes, there aren't many affordable options and it doesn't make much sense to put a $300 fork on a heavy steel bike. A well serviced set of vintage forks will perform adequately on an old bike like this.
You might ant to think about going with a magnetic pickup tool to retrieve future springs at he bottom of upper tubes. It'd be a little quicker. Most auto parts store will have at least two sizes. A shotgun bore brush might help clean the insides of the tubes too. That was an impressive technique you used to guide the bolts with wire into the lower tubes.
I've found rubbing aluminum foil on to the stancheons with some wd40 a good way to remove some corrosion. Plus a little scotch bright pad or fine sand paper
Peter McLachlan yeah but actually it's aluminum foil and water and yes it does polish without scratching anything chrome-plated
Interesting hint, have not tried that with Aluminum! automotive finish wet/dry sandpaper with water also leaves a very nice smooth finish in the 600-800 range start with rougher. Since this fork doesn't rely on any "sealing" it all spring and grease it doesn't matter if you have fine scratches. Not something you'd do to more exotic forks!!!
@@dirkdaddy2 there are a number of vids using aluminum foil and water to safely remove rust from chrome
@@edwardmulder3777 Thanks - FYI, I have a friend who takes badly rusted items and uses a battery charger and tub of water or something (escapes me at moment) to use electrolysis to remove the rust from things and free them solid parts. Different than this repair but didn't know if you had tried that.
I just cant believe how some people treat they bikes. I do restore/fix/rebuilt bikes myself and sometimes there are things you would not beleive . And I am not talking chep bikes here . Great tutorial .
7 years old but still great advice and guidance. Now to get my shocks 'unfrozen!'
I have a job to do like that on one of my grandson’s bike , never done a fork job before but the video is informative and l know what’s to expect when l do the strip down . I ‘m and old mechanic from the 50’s to which l was a top guy , but with these later bikes l find l am still learning all new things . I went on to be a motorcycle mechanic and then furthered my knowledge as a vehicle mechanic in the forces . I love your videos 👍
Finally i can repair my old bike, i love my bike since i was a teenager.
TANK YOU SO MUCH
My fork is A RST GILA T4, very similar
Same I have a seized set of T4 forks on my old Norco I got when I was 16. Forks aren't original to the bike, but the bike is now 20 years old. I just want to ride it again.
I had serious doubts about this video, but you have some skills, RJ. I love renovating old bikes, but I thought these crappy forks were throwaway, and you proved otherwise. Nicely done.
Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
Not every repair attempt ends in a positive result, except in TH-cam land.
Nice to see an instructional that actually deals with one of those stupid awkward jobs that are normally edited away. I find all these simple jobs have a tendency to develop into major time eating nightmares that leave you wondering if it's even worth doing on a £50 set of forks. Another good trick for removing rust from the shiny bits is to use Cola and tinfoil. Works like magic
So you soak the parts in cola and tin foil?
Soaking in Vingar totally removes rust; then go over with steel wool for the last of it. Wash with soap.
RJ, I use a dremel with a small gentle wire brush wheel to polish the outer tubes. Don't apply pressure, just lightly polish. It takes a little time, but cleans the surface corrosion off of it nicely, back to original metal.
A little too aggressive for my likings.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Cheapest and minimally abrasive as a lapping compound for the outer stanchions just might be toothpaste with a Scotchbrite. Commenter Miranda's Shotgun cleaning kit sounds ideal for the inner fork tubes. A 12Gauge kit is roughly 3/4 inch wide in bore diameter, inexpensive, and includes often, soft plastic and or brass wire brushes and diaper snakes,lol. You might find a kit for a few bucks at a yard sale prowl. I have a 2003 TREK 4900 with a ROCKSHOX PILOT C that needs a massage. I don't think you overhauled one of those but it appears similar to this with magnesium lowers. Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to you RJ ( you rock!) and Mrs Bike Gal,phil
Thank you for this video. I just got a Specialized Hotrock in my shop with a seized RST shock. Was trying to decide which way was best to unseize them.
Excellent video! I have the exact issue with my 2007 Trek 4300. Looking forward to tearing into it when I get home.
time an time again i keep coming back to your videos for bike repairs, you are the best rj
Another great video, great stepby step instructions easy and a pleasure to follow and understand. You sir are a great problem solver,most people wouldve gave up and ignored the for sale sign on the bike in the first place but as always you know how to be kind to the environment and extend the life of a neglected old bike, much kudos to you and please keep up all the great work.
I've got a different brand of forks than these, that are seized, but I'm pretty sure that after watching this video, I'll now be able to get them working again, so many thanks for the time you took to make this video. It was very detailed and informative.
I have the cappa t7 forks and have rebuilt them once can you do a video on them so I can see if I did it right?
When you take your loved old bike to repair and the guy of the bike shop says:
"Get a new one, that's impossible to fix". And you awnser: "I know a youtube channel...."
So true XD
It's more like it's not worth the shop time to fix it. You can buy a new one for less than the cost of the overhaul. But if you can do the work yourself, by all means do it.
Best instructional videos on bike repair and overhaul...By far...thanks once again for your videos
Last time I rebuilt a stuck fork a friend of mine suggested filling up both sides with transmission fluid, I let them soak overnight and everything came out fairly easy, then I stuck a scotch bright pad on a coat hanger hooked up to a drill to clean out the fork tubes, I use the same scotch bright coat hanger combo on seat tubes
thanks, you saved me from a very expensive repair job! Now I can put my forks back together, using that extra long 5 mm hex key.
I am trying to Restore some old bike forks myself. You are definitely are one of the best bike mechanics Ive seen on youtube 👍
Wow, thanks!
very informative video.... I remember when I was in 7th or 8th grade I used to steal little containers of grease from my teachers that they used on slide projectors. I always used the grease on my headset, and I used to charge my friends $1.50 to grease the bearings in their bottom bracket. I was a bad kid haha...good times!
vortec mob You've been reported to the proper authorities!
I remember when I was a teacher I used to steal brake pads and seats from kids bikes and charge my fellow teachers $5 and $10 to put them on their bikes.
Max Mason I kinda hope this is sarcasm
@@kasperii You think ?? Yes it's a ridiculous joke but I will make sure I check with you before making any more sarcastic remarks. It's amazing you made no comment on Vortec Mob who's (not) funny comment has been sitting here for 5 years and is probably 100% true..... smfh !
I repaired slide projectors for years. Almost never needed grease. Sheet metal and plastic cams.
It is also possible to get the lockring side out by pushing down on the sylinder, shimming something between the bold and the fork, and then holding the sylinder fixed while turning. The extra leverage against the threads does it.
I have the plus version of these forks with my specialized mine wore so bad like actually rusted the springs were stuck together with rust but I still managed to restore them and they work like brand new again
Great video I just bought a 2005 trek 4300 on Craigslist for $35.00 I like doing the same thing you do just build bike thought your videos were good
A Rollinson Exactly! Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
Standing Ovation and Hats off to you RJ!!! I couldn't take my eyes off this video...
this was exactly the video I was looking for, and a very common problem for 10-20 year old unserviced mountain bikes sitting in garages that you find at yard sales
you are the man, amazing and thank you so much, you have turned me into bike revamping freak, but I don't have a big workshop, I do it in my 3/F roof top glass house, now I am working on an Australian made dual suspension bike with a RST 280 spring fork, I got the bike for HK$199 which is about US$25, all the parts are junk, broken crank set, I have successfully used your method to pull out the drive side and have to cut the other side to remove the crank arm, yet I have to remove and replace everything else, which would be a fun project.
Definitely the best bike sizing video I’ve seen... thanks guys
Man that quite a task as in time consumption but hey beats buying new shocks or second hand ones that may not work as well as a overhaul. Thanks for the video and time !
Foot shot with grease at the end a nice segway to the finish. Great vid
Mr RJ, you are a genious !! My most sincere congratulations !
Wow RJ...!
These forks were rough but you made it happen...👍
Awesome job as always...👌
I just serviced a set of Gila T6 shocks that I bought on eBay. They weren't seized up but well on their way as a bunch of water leaked out as soon as I removed the lower bolts. The plunger rod on one side was pretty corroded but cleaned up fine as did everything else. My stanchion tubes are nearly pristeen. Lubed up everything heavily as the seals probably aren't the best at keeping the water out. Too bad parts for these are hard to find.
Great video, good for every one to see the perseverance needed to fix anything properly. Most people would of given up and bought new ones. Thumbs up from me dude.
I got a Trek 3500 with frozen fork for 90 bucks, is works good even without suspension, but i am gonna buy a new one for 75 bucks... i do not have time to do all all this....great video RJ
You sir are a genius, brilliant...was a lot more work than I was expecting, but I loved your patience and perseverance!!!
Thanks man I prefer cheap forks as I don't off road I've never had a driving license so been riding nearly 60 years as an ex powerlifter my joints are in an awful state so I just need something to take the bump's out of the road . Great video 👍
David Burt Exactly! Unless you're bombing it down boulders at 20mph you don't 'need' $500 shocks. I live in N.Italy where people pay 2,500€ for mtb that they ride on 'manicured' trails....it's a business I get it but I rode a Trek 4300 for 1,500miles last year here and NEVER 'needed' an expensive full suspension bike~ Simplicity works wonders!
Excellent step-by-step how-to video!
i had done most everything except tear apart a shock , dident know where to start even. this video is perfect , i just hope i can get the ancient shocks on a proflex 435 to work again . cant exactly replace them .
Excellent video! I have a used Raleigh Peak that has seized shocks. I want to try unseizing them before buying new ones.
Restoration work of art - well done
RJ I LOVE your videos and what you can do with any bike. As an inner city kid from The Bronx , New York , I ride A full sus mtb aggressively in the city lol and I come to your videos more often then not just to see you work your magic. Keep on , keeping on.
That was sick, That's what I try to do with old bikes but I usually mess them up more! lol
hi,i do same problem remove fork solid right hand sometime problem!i found you teach show tool wrench driver fast well!that why i brought new fork today.
I have a trek 7100 multitrack bike and the front suspension started coming apart. These are rst shocks but they are not built like the ones in this video. Please do a video on how to repair these kind of shocks or any kind of help will be appreciated. I love this bike and want to fix it.
Cool!!! I have the same Forks with the same issues good to know how to repair. Thanks RJ the bike guy.
Lotta work for an inexpensive fork ... Depends on what the bike will ultimately do ... Prolly a good candidate for an eBike conversion :D
In a rough patch like the corroded sections, I run crocus cloth and penetrating oil to knock off any microscopic sharp edges that were formed. It makes the rubber bits last longer.
Hey there. I think I've got the exact kind of bike you have in the video. Thank you so much for the impact wrench tip. I had given up on being able to open them at all but that worked for me. Made it through to trying to remove the inner stack and they just won't budge. I beat the hell out of them from both sides. Going to leave them overnight with some oil in them and try tomorrow. If anyone has any other tips for unsticking them I'm all ears. If all else fails I might try heating the outer tubes a bit with a heat gun but I don't want to melt anything.
I fixed everything else on this bike I saved from scrap, but after watching this think I'll just leave the fork seized 😂 this is quite intensive
The slickoleum's worth more than the forks. Good to see I'm not the only one saving these bikes from certain death.
Always enjoy your videos. I had no idea about using vinegar to remove rust. Thanks.
It's one of my favorites! How To Remove Rust From Screws And Bolts
jim mcdowell vinegar is dilute acid,don't forget to flush away the vinegar completely or any residue left behind will cause more corrosion!!
Much more fun to watch the same bikes serviced that we've ridden as well, compared to any dream build on YT.
I was sure the fork is kaputt when water started pouring out from the legs... Nice work!
Love the videos. Just thinking two lengths of PVC pipe with a cap on the bottom. Slide over the top part of the forks once the bottom half is removed and fill with A.S.vinegar. Removes rust from inside and out with no paper towel required and better saturation.
Great idea but I would try Evapo Rust.
Thanks to you I can repair my GILA RST fork. Greetings Friend.
is it the same for gila rl rst? thanks for sharing!!!
I haven't taken one of those apart. And there isn't much in the way of documentation on RST shocks. So you pretty much have to open them up and see what's inside.
The first video I have seen of your as such a huge help thank you so much you are a legend
I just picked up some of that Totally Awesome degreaser from the Dollar Tree today. I feel quite validated seeing that it is what you use.
It did a better job cleaning my chain than the Park Tool stuff that costs 16x as much.
Yeah, the stuff is great! And cheap!
Really enjoyed this.
I will use this as a rough guide restore some mozo pro's.
There is a lot to this. Not sure I am brave enough to take my bike apart yet. but I will think about it after I watch this 50 more times. lol. I just cleaned up the outside of the forks as best I could and used some Pen oil. the forks are a bit sticky. we will see. Course I am four years late to the party but still find this very useful. thanks.
Literally cheered when you finally got that thing out😂
Great video.. Would you have any tips for removing elastomers that are stuck inside the fork tube. I have removed the top cap and spring/spacer but the elastomers are stuck, seemingly from dried up grease . Forks are Rockshox Indy SL. Thanks.
Hey RJ, keep up the great vids. Just got some similar RST forks free again. I think my preload adjusters are broken. Can you do a short video just showing these sort of preload adjusters out of the forks and how they should operate, please?
S Word Got it RJ, thanks for the tip on your facebook page. Keep up the good work.
I have to admit, he's doing excellent on the bicycles he's been building for so long.
Best video explaination. Never done it before.
I did not see you use the long Allen wrench at regaining to removed the bottom suspension. Was that required to removed it? Will I need to go buy the long Allen wrench for this procedure? Thanks.
I could have used it. It would have been easier.
Hi RJ. That was a nice video. i have Gila T6 Suspension. I am facing an issue that the preload adjustor on top of the fork is rotating freely i.e. it is not getting stopped at either end. Any solutions to this?
I've learn a lot of things from you! New I also save every bike I can Thenks to you!!!
A good, quick, surface rust remover to use in addition to scotchbrite pads is auto chrome wheel cleaner. Spray on, let sit a few minutes, scrub, hose off.
Thanks! As a guy who's done some of these fix it videos I enjoyed it, wasn't sure you were going to win! On the stuck side, would PB Blaster harm the fork? I use a lot on cars. Also since the fork is not a air or oil fork why not use some 400grit sandpaper on legs? Maybe a parts washer would help since you do this regularly! I'm going to use this info just got daughter a bike where the RST fork is travel restricted.
I don't want to use anything that might damage plastic or rubber parts. 400 grit sandpaper would scratch the heck out of the chrome. I have a parts washer, but usually too much of a hassle to pull it out. Also, most people don't have a parts washer.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks, I was able to tear into the RST fork after viewing your video to see what was involved and although it was in great shape compared to this one you showed, there was a bit of water in one leg and the T shaped thing that sticks out into the lower was corroded some which i think was restricting movement. There were two soft rubber washers for travel limits and one broke in two, the other was split on one side..but just used sticky grease to hold in place and reassembled. The spacer in the lower seems to limit travel into bottom legs, might try removing it and getting some elastomers if I ever open it up again, but its for a campus bike for daughter. I was guessing at the grit of sandpaper but I took a high-end stainless cooktop I got cheap with bad rust stains and used automotive wet-or-dry sandpaper of 600-1000 grit & water and you'd be surprised at how well that worked - too well actually - as the cooktop started to look like chrome and wife told me to "rough it back up" LOL. Of course these stanchions will rust again no matter what if ridden wet on your bike as hard to stop but on this non-air fork should be fine! The rebuilt fork is now working a LOT smoother. :)
Very clear and easy to follow instructional video
RJ, Thanks for the how to!!! I have this exact 4300 (different color) and thought they were blown b/c no oil...turns out they NEVER HAD ANY! I will freshen them up as you've shown me here and sell the bike. I've been gifted a Trek 4900 w/discs and it's lighter-I'll hit you up on your FB page!-) Thanks again!!!
Well you certainly saved those sorry looking forks. Great job!
RJ, how do you feel about using steel wool to remove corrosion? It seems to work well, but I wasn't sure if I was causing damage in the end with the abrasiveness or causing problems with all of the little fibers that seem to fall off. Thanks
Very nice instruction video - are the instructions valid for a RST Gila T4 too? Bought a second hand bike yesterday and I've never had a bike with suspension fork before....
I don't know. I haven't done the T4.
were the lockouts on the forks engaged/partially engaged rj?,according to things iv'e read on the net the lockouts are notorious for getting stuck or broken on rst forks,even some of the more expensive ones break too.
neil crompton These forks didn't have lockouts.
I have this problem! But how do I get the bottom screws out if I don't have that impact drill? The screws just keep spinning and I cannot compress the fork at all unfortunately
If I only got the tools, I can follow this. Thumbs up!
Nice tutorial, RJ. Thank you. Anyone can buy a new fork. Making something work that would otherwise be unusable is where it's at. I like the fact that you fix the 'unfixable'. I learned a few things from you AND I have this fork ...frozen. Nicely done.
Unfortunately frozen/rusted forks are hit or miss. I have gotten bitten by a few of them that just weren't repairable, or after being overhauled just were not up to snuff. I have gotten a bit leery of buying bikes with fork like that.
good video. by the way is here a specific tool i could buy to remove the top cover of the suspension. cause i dont have the equipment to make one
They are very hard to find.
Thank you for your videos pelon . They encourage me continuing working on my bike. I'm fixing my Schwinn with 190cl shockers broke I need the springs. Both springs are broken any suggestions where to get it? Please lmk thanks the vet
Gotta google around to see if you can find some. Or ebay. I don't have any special sources.