Much Clearer than the Tenpoint video in my opinion! I recently got the Viper 430 from you David (I am completely new to Tenpont and cranks.), and this video cleared up all of the questions I had on the cranking system. Thank you for taking the time to actually show what is going on inside the Bow. Great job on this!
I have a situation when decocking old model. I did about three clockwise turns while pushing the silver tabs forward until the hooks disengage. When I was winding down the string it felt like it was skipping and jamming. Planning to get a local shop to take a look.
There is a nylon washer on both sides of the strap. If you have too much slack the strap catches it and folds it over. Bet that is it. You will need a new strap and gear if that is the case
Just a quick clarification, around the 6:30 mark, you are showing the back crank on the Nitro, you SAY back crank twice, but you actually only physically back crank 1 1/2 times. Then half crank to finish. Just wondering if you MEAN back crank 1 1/2 then half to TOTAL 2 cranks? Hopefully that makes sense?
There is some plus and minus to two exact turns. Part of it is where the handle is when you get all the way back. What your doing with the two back cranks is allowing some slack so the trigger fully settles onto the pins. It can settle with less than 2 turns but generally if you say back crank two turns it turns into 1.5 or 1. If you say back crank 1 turn people would not go back enough. Good catch!!
Just wanted to clarify something. On my Nitro 505, new model, after I do the 2 back cranks, EVERY time that I hold the button and try the additional last 1/2 crank I get the clicking. You say this is OK, just want to make sure nothing is wrong as Ive never tried it and NOT had it click on my bow. It shoots fine and accurately but I dont want to be messing things up inside and have trouble later.
I got that. Is there any safety issue with having that screw come out? Does it have anything to do with the slide not going down the rails sometimes after the release is pressed?
I have an issue where the accuslide wont slide down without me forcing it loose after each shot. Even after doing the back cranking. Any way to resolve this
Watch out for the screw coming out of the collar. Mine did. Put some lock tight and hope it’s ok. So far ten point advice was to take it into a dealer who isn’t a dealer and didn’t service crossbows.
You’re over cranking it. It’s a left hand thread. When you tighten it up and yank the handle to back crank it you back off that screw. If you stop as soon as it latches and only crank forward just enough to release the trigger latch when decocking you won’t back off the screw
I’m having trouble understanding your terms. By cranking back do you mean while I am cocking? And you are saying when it latches when you crank it fully back, I am cranking too far back, and it’s loosing that screw? My main question is if having that come out made something happen on the inside I should be concerned with.
@@roberth.retallickr.n.8069as your cranking back the bow to cock it once the pins on the trigger latch stop cranking. When decocking only crank far enough forward to release the trigger latch. The bolt keeps the knob from back winding off the shaft
I have the 10 point siege for 25, it doesn’t have the pin in the crank handle to disengage the front string which makes the brush extend beyond the end. How can I disengage it?
So what you’re saying is that it doesn’t disengage at all. If that’s the case, can I put a slight tension on it to put the brush back behind the front so it doesn’t get damaged?
also i’m confused you said after cocking let back twice then once with the gear stop but on my 425 siege a sticker says “ backed d handle once and then hood gear stop and manually rotate silver knob backward until it stops
@@jojogrow5815 this year they went to a different series of instructions in an attempt to get people to stop over back cranking. As noted on that brake most times two turns back is all you need to do
I have the tenpoint havoc rs440 and some how the left trigger release pin fell off gone. I'm not sure where it came off, and I'm not sure how it came off. Where can I find one. Also, can the bow still work after getting wet in the rain. One day, my bow got wet, and when I attempted to de-cock and it make lots cranking noise, any explanation is appreciated
Ya…that is all one piece. You will want a service center to replace that for you they won’t sell just the part. There is a bushing that is probably gummed up from being wet. Same deal a service center can pop out the crank and clean the bushing for you
Im concerned with the gear mechanism being how I was caught in heavy rain storm last season. How can I check for damage, rust, and relube the gear housing? Thanks.
No it’s not a big deal. Take out all the screws on the right side of the bow and peel off the cheek with a small screwdriver. You may have to reglue the cheek back on
Thx for your help! This is awesome that you actually reply and very helpful. Much appreciated. I’ll give it a try on my Seige 410. I’m sure it’s the same set up as the others.
Thank you for disassembling and showing exactly why mine was clicking. I thought it was broken and was getting ready to call customer service.
Spot on David ! A much needed video. You covered everything very well !
Thank you for your time .
Much Clearer than the Tenpoint video in my opinion! I recently got the Viper 430 from you David (I am completely new to Tenpont and cranks.), and this video cleared up all of the questions I had on the cranking system. Thank you for taking the time to actually show what is going on inside the Bow. Great job on this!
I have a situation when decocking old model. I did about three clockwise turns while pushing the silver tabs forward until the hooks disengage. When I was winding down the string it felt like it was skipping and jamming. Planning to get a local shop to take a look.
There is a nylon washer on both sides of the strap. If you have too much slack the strap catches it and folds it over. Bet that is it. You will need a new strap and gear if that is the case
Thanks! Shop got it working without having to open stock. Should be ok, right?
If the washer was not too bent it will work fine
Just a quick clarification, around the 6:30 mark, you are showing the back crank on the Nitro, you SAY back crank twice, but you actually only physically back crank 1 1/2 times. Then half crank to finish. Just wondering if you MEAN back crank 1 1/2 then half to TOTAL 2 cranks? Hopefully that makes sense?
There is some plus and minus to two exact turns. Part of it is where the handle is when you get all the way back. What your doing with the two back cranks is allowing some slack so the trigger fully settles onto the pins. It can settle with less than 2 turns but generally if you say back crank two turns it turns into 1.5 or 1. If you say back crank 1 turn people would not go back enough. Good catch!!
Just wanted to clarify something. On my Nitro 505, new model, after I do the 2 back cranks, EVERY time that I hold the button and try the additional last 1/2 crank I get the clicking. You say this is OK, just want to make sure nothing is wrong as Ive never tried it and NOT had it click on my bow. It shoots fine and accurately but I dont want to be messing things up inside and have trouble later.
It just means that the two turns are enough to disengage the brake. Your good
I got that.
Is there any safety issue with having that screw come out? Does it have anything to do with the slide not going down the rails sometimes after the release is pressed?
Knob can loosen. You want it tight
Thanks so much for your help
is there anything i can do to fix that clicking noise because it happens everytime i decock
my crossbow just started doing that bumping noise like you showed how do i fix it
I have an issue where the accuslide wont slide down without me forcing it loose after each shot. Even after doing the back cranking. Any way to resolve this
If you dry fired it you bent the hooks. You will need to get them replaced
@WyvernsCreations was never dry fired, this is after each bolt
Watch out for the screw coming out of the collar. Mine did. Put some lock tight and hope it’s ok. So far ten point advice was to take it into a dealer who isn’t a dealer and didn’t service crossbows.
You’re over cranking it. It’s a left hand thread. When you tighten it up and yank the handle to back crank it you back off that screw. If you stop as soon as it latches and only crank forward just enough to release the trigger latch when decocking you won’t back off the screw
I’m having trouble understanding your terms. By cranking back do you mean while I am cocking? And you are saying when it latches when you crank it fully back, I am cranking too far back, and it’s loosing that screw?
My main question is if having that come out made something happen on the inside I should be concerned with.
@@roberth.retallickr.n.8069as your cranking back the bow to cock it once the pins on the trigger latch stop cranking. When decocking only crank far enough forward to release the trigger latch. The bolt keeps the knob from back winding off the shaft
I have the 10 point siege for 25, it doesn’t have the pin in the crank handle to disengage the front string which makes the brush extend beyond the end. How can I disengage it?
That one you can’t. It has a different dfi system
So what you’re saying is that it doesn’t disengage at all. If that’s the case, can I put a slight tension on it to put the brush back behind the front so it doesn’t get damaged?
yes just don’t go too far
Thanks!
I just bought a Turbo S1. This procedure is very complicated. I might take it back and get a Raven instead.
also i’m confused you said after cocking let back twice then once with the gear stop but on my 425 siege a sticker says “ backed d handle once and then hood gear stop and manually rotate silver knob backward until it stops
@@jojogrow5815 this year they went to a different series of instructions in an attempt to get people to stop over back cranking. As noted on that brake most times two turns back is all you need to do
You need to be a f....xx rocket scientist to operate that Acuslide.....
I have the tenpoint havoc rs440 and some how the left trigger release pin fell off gone. I'm not sure where it came off, and I'm not sure how it came off. Where can I find one. Also, can the bow still work after getting wet in the rain. One day, my bow got wet, and when I attempted to de-cock and it make lots cranking noise, any explanation is appreciated
Ya…that is all one piece. You will want a service center to replace that for you they won’t sell just the part. There is a bushing that is probably gummed up from being wet. Same deal a service center can pop out the crank and clean the bushing for you
Im concerned with the gear mechanism being how I was caught in heavy rain storm last season. How can I check for damage, rust, and relube the gear housing?
Thanks.
Ther is no real lube. You can take the side cover off and clean and dry the crank
Thx Wayne….do you have a video of actually taking the side cover off??
No it’s not a big deal. Take out all the screws on the right side of the bow and peel off the cheek with a small screwdriver. You may have to reglue the cheek back on
Thx for your help! This is awesome that you actually reply and very helpful. Much appreciated.
I’ll give it a try on my Seige 410. I’m sure it’s the same set up as the others.
Wouldn't worry, since he said the "plastic" teeth could wear down.
What's the name of both Cross bows?