Everything? He could have mentioned in the description which materials he used, don't you think? Instead of describing "hardly known exotic tools like: Speed square for drawing straight lines - 4-foot level for checking high/low spots - Utility knife for cutting underlayment (can also be used to cut vinyl planks) - Mitre saw for cutting planks - Mallet & pull bar for setting the joints - Multi-tool for cutting door trim and other precision cuts He could named the materials used. Are we mind readers? At least, I am not able to read off the screen what's the brand of the dimple mat or the Eva underlayment. Excuse me!
@@sfuchs thanks for helping out with the extra details. Although I don’t think he left that info out on purpose. Sometimes we forget that things that are common to us may not be that common for others. It’s just human imperfection. You could call off the dogs on this one.
@MK-zf6or what's the point of posting this video for DIY Dudes, if you end up needing hiring a contractor?? You make a total sense bro. I only ask for the materials used, as there are multitude of options and I don't want to purchase a wrong ones, as it's a considerable investment comparing to a $7 speed square, or $5 malet, which he described so well.
You’re a master craftsman! It’s so hard to find good tradesmen. Why pay high for a botched job? I’m going to take my time and do it myself. This is a perfect video!❤
Exactly what I was looking for as far moisture barrier layers for concrete. Couple of questions please! 1) I would have put the moisture barrier down first, then the underpad on top. You did the opposite - underpad down first. Wouldn't moisture coming up would hit the underpad first then? Why did you do that order? 2) How is the flooring adhering to the under layer? Is it? What keeps it from bowing up? So the planks lock together at the joints? Thank you so much, very helpful video!
Regarding 2) the flooring doesn't adhere to the under layer. The flooring is interlocked via tongue and groove so the entire weight of the floor is what holds it down.
Honestly both layers provide water proof benefit. The dimple board creates an air gap and the foam pad provides a continuous sealed surface/insulation and sound dampening Good luck
When you hammer the planks in to get the joint tighter, what is stopping the whole floor from shifting, since you want to maintain the expansion gap along the wall?
Nice straight to the point. What are my option in basement if I have drain in the middle and the floor is not obviously leveled and slops towards drain in center.
Thank you for the great video and info. After reading and talking with flooring companies, I've concluded that a vapor barrier is required underneath the vinyl planks if you have an older home. I'm positive a vapor barrier was not installed when my home was built (1980). Two separate flooring companies mentioned they use 6 mil plastic when installing vinyl planks for customers. Just another alternative (cheaper) to consider. Do you see any reason why regular plastic wouldn't work?
They still don’t put moisture barrier on new homes if on slab. I just purchased new home. They are finally gonna redo the whole floor and install moisture barrier. Due to buckles started to form after few months since moved in. 🙄
Great video! Thank you! Question about the moisture and layers underneath the plank flooring - is it likely for mold to develop between the porous concrete and the plastic layers? To prevent mold, is a more absorbent material (other than plastic) necessary to absorb moisture? Thanks for your help!
Hey there. No the idea is you don’t want any thing to absorb and hold moisture the plastic dimple board creates an air gap…. If moisture does accumulate than it can evaporate into the air gap. If it absorbs into something it will stay trapped. Organic material will grow mold. Plastic shouldn’t. Good luck!
Your video was great. You went step by step and explained why and how it would work. I do have a question for you. My son is remodeling our library at church for his Eagle project for boy scouts. There is currently carpet in there but it is concrete underneath. Should we just use the Eva form or both items you suggested in the video?
The layer of dimple board is huge benefit in terms of the ability to allow your floor to dry if there is moisture coming through the slab but you could do with out it if you arnt worried about that.
Great Video. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on my idea I'm tossing around for my office build in the basement. I just bought a house built in the 50's and building an office in the basement with the goal of minimizing sound and any moisture/vapor. I'm looking into getting LVP flooring and putting down a 6 mil vapor barrier on the cement, underlayment (QuietWalk from Home Depot), then the plank flooring. Again, looking to minimize sound transfer and any moisture/vapor.
Hey Luke the only thing I would be concerned about is adding the vapour barrier right on top of the concrete. I used the dimple board to create an air gap…. That way as moisture does wick through the concrete it will have a space to evaporate…. If the moisture barrier is right on top of the concrete water will just collect there…. Talk to the guys at Home Depot I’m sure they can give you some advice on their products. Thanks for watching
Very professional, love the video. Have a question regarding the underlay and vap barrier you put down in preparation. I have Life Proof vinyl flooring I purchased from Home Depot which already has a backing underlay and snaps into place. would this be overkill using your prep method as well as the vinyl floor with the backing or not recommended to do both? Kind regards Cliff
Hey Cliff thanks for the comment, the underlay on the back of your flooring probably is not designed to be a vapour barrier but more likely to be for insulation/sound dampening. If you are flooring on top of concrete I would recommend using an additional vapour barrier with a dimple bottom.
@@DIYDudes I have the same question my situation is a little more complicated. I have cinder blocks for the wall in the basement. They are porous. I have sealed it with hydraulic cement as well as a sealant. But I don't think it is 100% fixed :(. Eventually, I will have to seal it from the outside. So coming to the problem. I was thinking that if I seal the concrete with sealant and then have no undergarment - then the rainwater if it comes over the vinyl floor as there is very little space between floor and vinyl. so that I can wipe that water from the vinyl tiles or vacuum it. The little water between vinyl and cement floor will evaporate faster as there is no undergarment.
Thanks for your efficient video! I wonder how expansion gaps be treated, for wood subfloor I think first and last panels are nailed. Here no treatment, will them go toward wall causing gaps? which brands base materials you used?
So I bought a new townhome and it’s on a slab. After few months. Noticed buckles on the floor ( LVP) come to find out there is no moisture barrier on the slab. How is possible new homes they don’t put moisture barrier on the floor due to slab has moisture. I don’t understand why new homes miss that.
I'm putting a kitchen in a basement. two walls are drywall (from previous construction) and one is new studs. The fourth side will abut with carpet, so I'll just put a threshold there. Is there any reason I could not put the floor in before the drywall on the one side? Any suggestions on the transition to the carpet (~13 ft)?
No problem putting the floor in first. Just have to make sure you keep it covered to keep it clean and ensure you have a wide enough gap in the wall. For the transition, your best bet would be to find a T moulding that matches your floor color. If you haven’t purchased your floor already, you can get a flooring that has a matching t moulding
someone said with the new vinyl planks, you dont need the underlayment. is that true? it's built in? have things changed or still go with underlayment?
I want to install 2x2 foam tiles (like the one for children or for yoga) in the basement (I will leave the corners and edges next to the wall uncovered). Do I need a dimple moisture barrier underneath that foam, specifically to avoid mold? What about a thin polyethylene later under the foam? Or the blue dmx? Or will the foam be enough. The underneath of the foam is flat. Thanks!
I wouldn’t worry about mold Forming under foam tiles. They are meant to be temporary… you can remove them and clean as required if you spill or anything
@@DIYDudes thanks ❤️. So the moisture seeping up from the concrete won't get stuck under the foam and get all moldy? I don't know much about the chemistry of concrete/foam combination and if mold grows there if there is no air flow! 🙂
It depends on how your house was built with respect to the quality of the foundation. I would lay the foam down and just periodically check under a corner to see how it’s doing. Good luck!
I bought dimple plastic and wanted to do vynal but i was told i need a subfloor plywood but for the price they are now i stopped trying. So i don’t need plywood subfloor? I can just put underlayment on top of the dimple plastic n put the flooring on top?
Dimple board, the under pad, then flooring and you are good to go. Only concern would be because the dimple board isn’t as rigid as plywood you need to have a rigid vinyl floor some thing about 1/4” thick should be a minimum
Always follow your manufacturers recommendations. If you wanted to do a system like I am using you would need to select the right flooring material that allows for underlayment Thanks for watching
We have thinks like check valve access pipes and other types of things we need access to on the slab... How do you do flooring when you need to be able to remove part of it if you need to access the check valves or something? Was told we can ot cover over them.
You’ll have to box them out using trim. Build a trim square around the opening, butt the floor up to that and then cover the gap with another piece of trim. Cut a lid out of wood or use flooring material for the opening itself. Good luck!
You could but you wouldn’t get the same benefit… this adds insulation, sound dampening, moisture protection from “above” sources… water can dry out if it’s spilled. Most floors are water proof Now so they won’t warp but water can still be trapped underneath and mold if it can’t dry out Also redguard is a a chemical you might not get full or good coverage and it smells horrible
We are looking for the same colored flooring that you are using. Please tell me where you got is and what color the walls are. Looks like Agreeable Grey to me but you know how colors on phone are like. Thanks
Drew - think I need the same vapor barrier and EVA if I'm doing this on a slab, ranch home in FL built in 2018? Or, can I just go with the 6 mil plastic and skip the EVA?
The Eva or similar soft under pad makes the floor feel softer and dampens the sound of people walking. I wouldn’t skip it but check the manufacturer’s instructions for the floor you are putting down. And if your Lee really concerned you can call their tech and discuss your specific area. They will give you specifics. Thanks for watching!
Instead of using Moisture barrier can I use the carpet underlay that is still there after I removed the carpet to replace it with vinyl? It's in good shape. Thanks.
i need advice...ourr basement is only 1 meter above the ground....what kind of underlayment to be used...and i have 4 windows..but the floor is concrete..
What are the two types of underlayment/ moisture barrier you used in this video? Do you have suggestion for alternative for the foam pad? I can find what was used at Home Depot
The foam pad I got from a flooring specialty store. It’s a thick eva Foam… much better than Home Depot brand. The dimple board is standard from Lowe’s or home depot
@@DIYDudes Was it similar to Dekorman from HD? 3mm thick. That's too thick for LVP (at least it is according to Lifeproof) - did you have any issues with it being too soft and boards separating? I want to do the same thing and would love some insulation below the floor but don't have much room, don't want to increase the height much. But you need very solid underlayment that can take a lot of PSI usually.
So most underlayments tell you to go 2 inches up the wall not butting it up against the wall. How does this work with corners, and how does the trimming process work after board installation? Does the excess get trimmed at the top of the floor (extending about 3/4" up the wall effectively or a sheer cut down?
@@DIYDudes I had the same question. The instructions when I bought my underlayment by Sentinal had mentioned this. My problem when I do this is that it all buckled when I to butt the next piece. I’m at the point where I’ll just cut it like you, tuck it underneath ,then retape the pieces again to make sure it’s all level. I bought the thick green underlayment.
Im following people around repairing thier interlocking vinyl plank because they used a moisture barrier..it it breaking the joints because it allows the lvp up and down movement ..i dont recommend using anything under lvp or lvt it should be in direct contact with the solid subfloor
There are so many poor quality floors out there with crap joints. It’s best to use a rigid core thicker floor People often crack joints during the install, don’t notice and then it buckles later. Especially in big long rooms
If you can find the Eva foam one use it otherwise you can get a dimple board product with a foam topper built all in one now. Ask the Home Depot guys when u get there. Thanks for watching
I would check the underlayment requirements for your engineered hard wood it will likely be different. If you have to nail it down you will need to do a ply wood subfloor. Good luck!
I’m sure it would work. The products i use help with insulation and sound dampening… a roll on sealer wouldn’t but either way would be a good moisture barrier Thanks for watching
Great video. But I am a little bit confused, could anyone help me on that? Throughout the whole process, no nail needed and there are gaps at boundary, how can the floor stay in place? Will the pieces at boundary become loose over time?
Hey there so the idea is that the floor floats. It has the ability to slightly expand and contract over time. Google floating floor and there will be a more detailed explanation… thanks for watching!
Do you got any issue with moisture? My living house is built in late 60s and living room is concrete. I've put laminate tile amd have moisture issue. Ive pulled it up and laid down eco cork underlayment. Still moisture issue. Think i can just add the dmx under the eco cork foam?
@@DIYDudes its not a surface leak at least to my knowledge. We let it air dry before installing them again. Also the my neighbor had same issue with same home structure.
I noticed you mentioned you used a rigid vinyl plank. Is it okay to install vinyl planks with a cork back on top of the moisture barrier and foam underpad? Or is all this extra padding going to give the floor a water bed type feel was you're walking on it.
Thanks! Question, i am using quiet walk LV for lvp with cork baxk, is this a good way to go? I see people just using 6mil plastic, dont see that being comfortable, hmmm
My house is built on a slab. My floors are directly on the concrete slab. I have to replace my floors. Should I start with the waterproofing? Such an awesome idea 💡 also, there are pet stains in the concrete. Do I need to put down a stain blocker first? What is dimplesboard? Awesome video!! I have the tools ⚒️!Thank you. Happy Halloween! 🎃
My whole house is on a slab and it's all carpet. I've layed vinyl floor before, but not on concrete. With the dimple and vapor barrier stuff you put underneath, can you feel it squish or bounce when walking on it? I feel like I am able to do this, I just want to get the right supplies first.
The dimple board creates an air gap that allows air flow. Really no moisture should come through but if it does that gap Allows it to breath. Thanks for watching
Very helpful video I have a quick question I bought the barn house and when ever is raining or bad weather I see moisture in my kitchen and living room what should I do and do you recommend vinyl or laminate?
Hey Naaz I would definitely recommend focusing on water proofing your home before doing any renovations. If you were putting flooring in an area that might see moisture like a bathroom I would use a waterproof vinyl… make 100% sure it says waterproof and not just water resistant
I would add self leveler abit more weight shouldn’t matter. Unless your building structure is failing the cracking is probably just due to settlement. What ever settlement was going to happen had probably already happened. If the cracking gets worse I would contact an engineer
Thanks so much. No extra chit chat that drives me nuts you got right to the point and explained everything really well! Subscribed.
Thank you
Everything? He could have mentioned in the description which materials he used, don't you think?
Instead of describing "hardly known exotic tools like: Speed square for drawing straight lines
- 4-foot level for checking high/low spots
- Utility knife for cutting underlayment (can also be used to cut vinyl planks)
- Mitre saw for cutting planks
- Mallet & pull bar for setting the joints
- Multi-tool for cutting door trim and other precision cuts
He could named the materials used. Are we mind readers? At least, I am not able to read off the screen what's the brand of the dimple mat or the Eva underlayment. Excuse me!
@@sfuchs thanks for helping out with the extra details. Although I don’t think he left that info out on purpose. Sometimes we forget that things that are common to us may not be that common for others. It’s just human imperfection. You could call off the dogs on this one.
@@sfuchs if you're that clueless, you're better off hiring a contractor for your renovation.
@MK-zf6or what's the point of posting this video for DIY Dudes, if you end up needing hiring a contractor??
You make a total sense bro. I only ask for the materials used, as there are multitude of options and I don't want to purchase a wrong ones, as it's a considerable investment comparing to a $7 speed square, or $5 malet, which he described so well.
Best and most helpful video I've come across. No BS talking or promoting their products
Thank you!
@2:25 overlay the butts and cut. So simple, but I never would have thought of that. Thanks!
Thank you. It’s the easiest way to get a perfect joint!
This is going to save me so much money thank you
This is a great tutorial. I feel confident to tackle my basement floor now. Thank you
Thank you good luck!
Thanks bunches certainly I now know more than I did 10 mins ago.
Great video for beginner.
Sign Dudette 😊
Thank you!
This has been a hard decision to make. Now we are clear. Great demonstration
Thank you!
Excellent mate. To the point, professional, informative, all relevant content. Just need a video on laying vinyl adhesive to concrete flooring.
Thank you!
Very instructive...I am about to tackle a huge basement project and this is my go to video for the flooring part. Thanks.
Thank you.!!🙏 good luck!
Thanks. I will do my son’s floor which will be on a slab. Your video was helpful.
Thank you!
You’re a master craftsman! It’s so hard to find good tradesmen. Why pay high for a botched job? I’m going to take my time and do it myself. This is a perfect video!❤
Thank you! Good luck!
Exactly what I was looking for as far moisture barrier layers for concrete. Couple of questions please!
1) I would have put the moisture barrier down first, then the underpad on top. You did the opposite - underpad down first. Wouldn't moisture coming up would hit the underpad first then? Why did you do that order?
2) How is the flooring adhering to the under layer? Is it? What keeps it from bowing up? So the planks lock together at the joints?
Thank you so much, very helpful video!
Regarding 2) the flooring doesn't adhere to the under layer. The flooring is interlocked via tongue and groove so the entire weight of the floor is what holds it down.
Honestly both layers provide water proof benefit. The dimple board creates an air gap and the foam pad provides a continuous sealed surface/insulation and sound dampening
Good luck
Excellent video. I see that you do not use the plastic tapping blocks that some people complain about breaking or messing up their vinyl.
Thank you. Yes I like to use a scrap piece of flooring… that way joint has full contact and is less likely to break
Thanks for keeping it straightforward and Simple! Great video
Thanks for the like!
Does one still use underlayment if the vinyl plank as an attached pad?
Thank you very much. Your video are great and very explainable trough the whole process. 👍👍
Thank you!
When you hammer the planks in to get the joint tighter, what is stopping the whole floor from shifting, since you want to maintain the expansion gap along the wall?
Good video, we’re about to do a new construction basement so thankfully no molding or doors to work around
Good luck thanks
Thank you very much I didn't know what to do you help me out alot and easy to understand thank you👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you!
Nice straight to the point.
What are my option in basement if I have drain in the middle and the floor is not obviously leveled and slops towards drain in center.
If you want to level out the floor you would have to do a plywood subfloor and shim them level.
Thanks for watching!
Great well-explained video!...Thank you, DIY Dudes, very much!
Thanks rodney!
Glad I found this video. Great job boss!!
Thanks!
Thanks for this great instructional video! We needed it!
Good luck thanks
Why do you use Eva foam on top of the other underlayment? Is it necessary?
Thanks so much! You explained it very well.
Thank you!
Thank you for the great video and info. After reading and talking with flooring companies, I've concluded that a vapor barrier is required underneath the vinyl planks if you have an older home. I'm positive a vapor barrier was not installed when my home was built (1980). Two separate flooring companies mentioned they use 6 mil plastic when installing vinyl planks for customers. Just another alternative (cheaper) to consider. Do you see any reason why regular plastic wouldn't work?
No there’s no reason that wouldn’t work as a vapour barrier. It would not provide any additional insulation or sound dampening though
They still don’t put moisture barrier on new homes if on slab. I just purchased new home. They are finally gonna redo the whole floor and install moisture barrier. Due to buckles started to form after few months since moved in. 🙄
@@davidh9820 buckle on basement floor? Because of concrete? Or all the floor upstairs etc? Thanks.
Great video! Thank you! Question about the moisture and layers underneath the plank flooring - is it likely for mold to develop between the porous concrete and the plastic layers? To prevent mold, is a more absorbent material (other than plastic) necessary to absorb moisture? Thanks for your help!
Hey there. No the idea is you don’t want any thing to absorb and hold moisture the plastic dimple board creates an air gap…. If moisture does accumulate than it can evaporate into the air gap. If it absorbs into something it will stay trapped. Organic material will grow mold. Plastic shouldn’t. Good luck!
5* out of 5 partner. Great show.
Thank you!
Right to the point great!
Thank you!
Thank you!! Very easy to follow
Thank you!
Your video was great. You went step by step and explained why and how it would work. I do have a question for you. My son is remodeling our library at church for his Eagle project for boy scouts. There is currently carpet in there but it is concrete underneath. Should we just use the Eva form or both items you suggested in the video?
The layer of dimple board is huge benefit in terms of the ability to allow your floor to dry if there is moisture coming through the slab but you could do with out it if you arnt worried about that.
Excellent video. Thanks!
Thank you!
Great Video. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on my idea I'm tossing around for my office build in the basement. I just bought a house built in the 50's and building an office in the basement with the goal of minimizing sound and any moisture/vapor. I'm looking into getting LVP flooring and putting down a 6 mil vapor barrier on the cement, underlayment (QuietWalk from Home Depot), then the plank flooring. Again, looking to minimize sound transfer and any moisture/vapor.
Hey Luke the only thing I would be concerned about is adding the vapour barrier right on top of the concrete. I used the dimple board to create an air gap…. That way as moisture does wick through the concrete it will have a space to evaporate…. If the moisture barrier is right on top of the concrete water will just collect there…. Talk to the guys at Home Depot I’m sure they can give you some advice on their products. Thanks for watching
Very professional, love the video. Have a question regarding the underlay and vap barrier you put down in preparation. I have Life Proof vinyl flooring I purchased from Home Depot which already has a backing underlay and snaps into place. would this be overkill using your prep method as well as the vinyl floor with the backing or not recommended to do both? Kind regards Cliff
Hey Cliff thanks for the comment, the underlay on the back of your flooring probably is not designed to be a vapour barrier but more likely to be for insulation/sound dampening. If you are flooring on top of concrete I would recommend using an additional vapour barrier with a dimple bottom.
@@DIYDudes Thanks for the reply and direction, will take your advice. Kind Regards Cliff
@@DIYDudes where can you find the Eva foam underlayment?
@@DIYDudes I have the same question my situation is a little more complicated. I have cinder blocks for the wall in the basement. They are porous. I have sealed it with hydraulic cement as well as a sealant. But I don't think it is 100% fixed :(. Eventually, I will have to seal it from the outside. So coming to the problem. I was thinking that if I seal the concrete with sealant and then have no undergarment - then the rainwater if it comes over the vinyl floor as there is very little space between floor and vinyl. so that I can wipe that water from the vinyl tiles or vacuum it. The little water between vinyl and cement floor will evaporate faster as there is no undergarment.
@@DIYDudes
Awesome tips man. Question for ya. Do you measure the width of the room prior so you don’t have one small plank run at your termination?
I roughly do but yea it’s good practice to do that
Great video - very informative!
Thank you
nice...ill try to do this....
Good luck thanks
Thanks for your efficient video! I wonder how expansion gaps be treated, for wood subfloor I think first and last panels are nailed. Here no treatment, will them go toward wall causing gaps? which brands base materials you used?
Great video! Why not lay the moisture barrier first?
The dimple board acts as an air gap to allow the moisture that does permeate from the concrete to dry rather than be compressed and not dry
If I install a waterproof laminate in my basement, do I need to put the barriers you mentioned underneath the laminate?
I still would. You don’t want moisture collecting under the floor
So I bought a new townhome and it’s on a slab. After few months. Noticed buckles on the floor ( LVP) come to find out there is no moisture barrier on the slab. How is possible new homes they don’t put moisture barrier on the floor due to slab has moisture. I don’t understand why new homes miss that.
Might also be the way it was laid. If the joints are hammered to tightly the may buckle… some of the thin flooring is very flimsy
did you put in the underlayment the wrong way? isn't it silver side down?
No not this brand.
Amazon Link to the padding used in this video please
What happens to the water vapor conning up from the concrete and hits the dimpled vapor barrier? Does the floor underneath collect moisture and mold?
It creates an air gap that allows moisture to dry …. If you didn’t have an air gap then the moisture would be stuck and not dry. Good luck!
U should use a softer mallet so you don’t break your edges I have a soft mallet and haven’t broken or chipped any edges
Yes definitely, The hammer I used was a soft plastic but I also use rubber mallets as well
Thanks for watching
I'm putting a kitchen in a basement. two walls are drywall (from previous construction) and one is new studs. The fourth side will abut with carpet, so I'll just put a threshold there. Is there any reason I could not put the floor in before the drywall on the one side? Any suggestions on the transition to the carpet (~13 ft)?
No problem putting the floor in first. Just have to make sure you keep it covered to keep it clean and ensure you have a wide enough gap in the wall. For the transition, your best bet would be to find a T moulding that matches your floor color.
If you haven’t purchased your floor already, you can get a flooring that has a matching t moulding
Can I use self adhesive floor tiles on the underlayment you used here
No. Adhesive tiles would need to be attached to a rigid surface like wood.
someone said with the new vinyl planks, you dont need the underlayment. is that true? it's built in? have things changed or still go with underlayment?
I want to redo my floor but Im on a budget, Are there cheaper alternatives or items least-necessary that I could skip on ?
You could get a cheaper under pad…. Check out your building big box store to see what the are offering and wait for a sale.
Good luck !
there isn’t a Big Box store near me
I already bought the laminate at a habitat for humanity
Do you have to leave an expansion gap when laying the flooring??
I want to install 2x2 foam tiles (like the one for children or for yoga) in the basement (I will leave the corners and edges next to the wall uncovered). Do I need a dimple moisture barrier underneath that foam, specifically to avoid mold? What about a thin polyethylene later under the foam? Or the blue dmx? Or will the foam be enough. The underneath of the foam is flat. Thanks!
I wouldn’t worry about mold
Forming under foam tiles. They are meant to be temporary… you can remove them and clean as required if you spill or anything
@@DIYDudes thanks ❤️. So the moisture seeping up from the concrete won't get stuck under the foam and get all moldy? I don't know much about the chemistry of concrete/foam combination and if mold grows there if there is no air flow! 🙂
It depends on how your house was built with respect to the quality of the foundation. I would lay the foam down and just periodically check under a corner to see how it’s doing. Good luck!
What is the names of products you used the materials that silver and gray for the floor
I bought dimple plastic and wanted to do vynal but i was told i need a subfloor plywood but for the price they are now i stopped trying. So i don’t need plywood subfloor? I can just put underlayment on top of the dimple plastic n put the flooring on top?
Dimple board, the under pad, then flooring and you are good to go. Only concern would be because the dimple board isn’t as rigid as plywood you need to have a rigid vinyl floor some thing about 1/4” thick should be a minimum
Are all vinyl toxic? Which brand do you recommend that has less toxins?
They shouldn’t be if they are being sold in store. Check with the manufacturer
Do I need the underlayment? It says it will void the warranty
Always follow your manufacturers recommendations. If you wanted to do a system like I am using you would need to select the right flooring material that allows for underlayment Thanks for watching
What if the flooring has a pad on the back side do you still need the underlayment?
Check the manufacturer recommendations but it shouldn’t hirt
Did you leave an air gap at the edge/between trim for the dimple board? Saw it on the instructions but not sure.
We have thinks like check valve access pipes and other types of things we need access to on the slab... How do you do flooring when you need to be able to remove part of it if you need to access the check valves or something? Was told we can ot cover over them.
You’ll have to box them out using trim. Build a trim square around the opening, butt the floor up to that and then cover the gap with another piece of trim. Cut a lid out of wood or use flooring material for the opening itself.
Good luck!
@@DIYDudes thanks.
Hope it works out for you good luck!
Question...why not use RedGuard or a similar product to waterproof/seal the floor?
You could but you wouldn’t get the same benefit… this adds insulation, sound dampening, moisture protection from “above” sources… water can dry out if it’s spilled. Most floors are water proof
Now so they won’t warp but water can still be trapped underneath and mold if it can’t dry out
Also redguard is a a chemical you might not get full or good coverage and it smells horrible
We are looking for the same colored flooring that you are using. Please tell me where you got is and what color the walls are. Looks like Agreeable Grey to me but you know how colors on phone are like. Thanks
I feel like I did all the steps and my LVP still buckles in between boards. I think I'm done with DYI projects
Drew - think I need the same vapor barrier and EVA if I'm doing this on a slab, ranch home in FL built in 2018? Or, can I just go with the 6 mil plastic and skip the EVA?
The Eva or similar soft under pad makes the floor feel softer and dampens the sound of people walking. I wouldn’t skip it but check the manufacturer’s instructions for the floor you are putting down. And if your Lee really concerned you can call their tech and discuss your specific area. They will give you specifics.
Thanks for watching!
Instead of using Moisture barrier can I use the carpet underlay that is still there after I removed the carpet to replace it with vinyl? It's in good shape. Thanks.
No you need to remove the carpet underlay. It’s too spongy to support your floor
Hi, could you pls link below which 2 underpayments that you used ?
i need advice...ourr basement is only 1 meter above the ground....what kind of underlayment to be used...and i have 4 windows..but the floor is concrete..
I would use the same system which is an underpad that has an air gap
ok...i watch some videos that they installed the green underlayment...lol i dont know the name...
I want to do my basement and I half drywall and half concrete walls… is it still possible to put vinyl against that?
Yes definitely… just make sure to leave your expansion gaps at the walls
So the tile is just set ontop of the stuff and not stuck down at all?
Yes that’s correct it’s designed to be a floating floor so it expands/contracts slightly
What are the two types of underlayment/ moisture barrier you used in this video? Do you have suggestion for alternative for the foam pad? I can find what was used at Home Depot
The foam pad I got from a flooring specialty store. It’s a thick eva Foam… much better than Home Depot brand. The dimple board is standard from Lowe’s or home depot
@@DIYDudes Was it similar to Dekorman from HD? 3mm thick. That's too thick for LVP (at least it is according to Lifeproof) - did you have any issues with it being too soft and boards separating? I want to do the same thing and would love some insulation below the floor but don't have much room, don't want to increase the height much. But you need very solid underlayment that can take a lot of PSI usually.
So most underlayments tell you to go 2 inches up the wall not butting it up against the wall. How does this work with corners, and how does the trimming process work after board installation? Does the excess get trimmed at the top of the floor (extending about 3/4" up the wall effectively or a sheer cut down?
Not sure what you mean. The underlayment needs to go all the way to wall similar to the floor (with a slight expansion gap)
@@DIYDudes I had the same question. The instructions when I bought my underlayment by Sentinal had mentioned this. My problem when I do this is that it all buckled when I to butt the next piece.
I’m at the point where I’ll just cut it like you, tuck it underneath ,then retape the pieces again to make sure it’s all level.
I bought the thick green underlayment.
Great tutorial, thank you so much! Is this type of floor strong resilient enough to handle a big dog running around?
thank you for the video. can you please provide a link to purchase the same premium Eva foam pad you used in this video, thanks again
Yes please!!!
Could I just use pergo gold underlayment instead of the dimple?
Great video. I apologize, I did not see what thickness the EVA was,(3mm?) for the same exact use in basement? thanks
Yes I believe it is 3 mm thick thanks for watching.!
How is your flooring holding up? Many ppl say the simple Matt is too thick for spc flooring and will cause it to come apart at some seams
It’s holding up really good actually…!no joint separation and it’s nice and warm and quite.
Thanks for watching!
@@DIYDudes thanks man, I’m stressing about an underpayment, so many mixed reviews. Have a good one:)
Great Video
Thanks for watching and good luck with your diy!
Thank you for detailed video, could you please put the item numbers or full name for both mats you used under laminate.
This is great. What about vinyl that has an underlay attached underneath the plank?
Check your floors manufacturer recommendations. Usually you should not use two underpass. Thanks for watching!
Im following people around repairing thier interlocking vinyl plank because they used a moisture barrier..it it breaking the joints because it allows the lvp up and down movement ..i dont recommend using anything under lvp or lvt it should be in direct contact with the solid subfloor
There are so many poor quality floors out there with crap joints. It’s best to use a rigid core thicker floor
People often crack joints during the install, don’t notice and then it buckles later. Especially in big long rooms
do you need the premium eva foam? i can’t find the one you used anywhere. Like can you just use the dimpled moisture barrier
If you can find the Eva foam one use it otherwise you can get a dimple board product with a foam topper built all in one now. Ask the Home Depot guys when u get there.
Thanks for watching
Hello, would it be the same instructions if the new flooring is engineered hardwook?
I would check the underlayment requirements for your engineered hard wood it will likely be different. If you have to nail it down you will need to do a ply wood subfloor. Good luck!
@@DIYDudes Thank you
Very helpful, thank you! I’m wondering if there would be an issue if I just did the dimpled rubber underlayment without the Eva foam layer?
You can you just get reduced insulation/sound dampening…. Good luck!
I have to redo my floors over concrete as well….is this efficient for four season weather?
Yes it’s fine for a northern climate. Thanks for watching
Thanks for a great video. What do you think about using a roll on membrane like Bona R540 instead of the simple board?
I’m sure it would work. The products i use help with insulation and sound dampening… a roll on sealer wouldn’t but either way would be a good moisture barrier
Thanks for watching
Does that underlayment take the place of sealing the concrete?
Great video. But I am a little bit confused, could anyone help me on that? Throughout the whole process, no nail needed and there are gaps at boundary, how can the floor stay in place? Will the pieces at boundary become loose over time?
Hey there so the idea is that the floor floats. It has the ability to slightly expand and contract over time. Google floating floor and there will be a more detailed explanation… thanks for watching!
Hi I have expansion gaps in my concrete in my basement. What do I need to fill it in with before putting self leveling concrete on it?
How deep and wide is the gap?
@@DIYDudes about 1/2 inch wide and around 1/4 in deep
@@TsoHangry do you need to fill it?
If u could only use one of the underlayment which would u use?
I prefer the type i used in the videon
Do you got any issue with moisture? My living house is built in late 60s and living room is concrete. I've put laminate tile amd have moisture issue. Ive pulled it up and laid down eco cork underlayment. Still moisture issue. Think i can just add the dmx under the eco cork foam?
You should figure out where the moisture is coming from. If it’s through the concrete you likely have a drainage problem on the exterior of your house
@@DIYDudes its not a surface leak at least to my knowledge. We let it air dry before installing them again.
Also the my neighbor had same issue with same home structure.
I noticed you mentioned you used a rigid vinyl plank. Is it okay to install vinyl planks with a cork back on top of the moisture barrier and foam underpad? Or is all this extra padding going to give the floor a water bed type feel was you're walking on it.
No I think it would be fine. You could do a small test section to check. Good Luck
Thanks! Question, i am using quiet walk LV for lvp with cork baxk, is this a good way to go? I see people just using 6mil plastic, dont see that being comfortable, hmmm
That sounds good to me. The thicker the better, the really thin stuff has fragile joints
Can u put some links to wear you get the underlayment stuff
I think you can get it at Home Depot online now
My house is built on a slab. My floors are directly on the concrete slab. I have to replace my floors. Should I start with the waterproofing? Such an awesome idea 💡 also, there are pet stains in the concrete. Do I need to put down a stain blocker first? What is dimplesboard? Awesome video!! I have the tools ⚒️!Thank you. Happy Halloween! 🎃
I would just clean the floor then so the dimple board/ underlayment.
You should be good with that. Thanks for watching good luck!
What brand/type of flooring and Underlayment did you use? Good video!
I’m not sure the exact brand. Check out Home Depot online though
What’s wrong with just putting OSB on top of the vapour barrier?
You could do that as well. Would just cost s fortune these days
My whole house is on a slab and it's all carpet. I've layed vinyl floor before, but not on concrete. With the dimple and vapor barrier stuff you put underneath, can you feel it squish or bounce when walking on it? I feel like I am able to do this, I just want to get the right supplies first.
No just get a rigid plank at least 3/8 thick preferably 1/2” to 3/4” Good luck!
What will happen with the water moisture coming out from the floor that is trapped on the moisture barrier ? Will I not accumulate or start to smell?
The dimple board creates an air gap that allows air flow. Really no moisture should come through but if it does that gap
Allows it to breath. Thanks for watching
Does the floor feel squishy after that?
No not bad… not. As firm though as a board on concrete though
Very helpful video I have a quick question I bought the barn house and when ever is raining or bad weather I see moisture in my kitchen and living room what should I do and do you recommend vinyl or laminate?
Hey Naaz I would definitely recommend focusing on water proofing your home before doing any renovations. If you were putting flooring in an area that might see moisture like a bathroom I would use a waterproof vinyl… make 100% sure it says waterproof and not just water resistant
What advice can you give for a Condo concrete subfloor that has settled with cracks.
Would adding another Self level add more weight ???
DIYER, TIA
I would add self leveler abit more weight shouldn’t matter. Unless your building structure is failing the cracking is probably just due to settlement. What ever settlement was going to happen had probably already happened.
If the cracking gets worse I would contact an engineer
What is the name of the silver floor insulation you used?