Thanks for this very well explained video. I’m doing every step as per the video but I am finding the screws are not going in flush. Are there differences in strength of impact drivers. Mine works great until the last 3mm. Very frustarting
@@andyzankowicz1802 you may not be drilling the holes deep enough. Also, it will help if you back out the screw when it starts to bind. Then screw it back in feathering the trigger. When you back out the screw it helps remove any concrete particles that are binding.
@@falsealarmno I had my framing done already. You can install it underneath the framing. It's a better method to have the Delta-FL beneath non load bearing walls IMO.
I'm blown away at the quality of information. You didn't try to sell anything, you just gave straightforward information in an easy to digest manner. I'm eager to explore your other videos
I've been watching videos on doing this exact thing for two days now. FINALLY, I've found the one that explains exactly what I need to know, and in language I can understand (as a DIY'er). THANK YOU!
That’s what this YT channel is about. Simplifying the construction process so that anyone can understand the process. Thanks for your support it’s much appreciated.
Great video and thanks for landscape fabric tip. TY for sharing. Ideally, Delta-FL / OSB T&G is installed onto slab before non-load bearing walls are built. Then, for exterior walls, frame them ~1" from the foundation wall and create vapor barrier with closed-cell spray foam. This method provides an ideal transition from the subfloor underlayment to the poured concrete foundation wall.
This is a great video regarding install of wood sub-floor on concrete basement floor. The main problem I see is, is that very few builders can properly dig & install basement structures using proper site prep., and drainage (my sub-contractor experiences). It's refreshing to see someone (this guy) doing a job correctly. I hope he stays busy and makes good profits.
Good job buddy great vid. I’ve been in construction for 17 years and I just nod my head when I see diy’s leaving Home Depot with three buggy’s of those 2 by 2 panels such a rip off, for my basement I actually used foundation membrane with the landscaping cloth already attached, as I got it for free from work. Again good job on showing ppl how to save their hard earned money.
Thanks! You have to be careful using the foundation wrap for a subfloor application. It is manufactured with different plastics and generally not built as stiff as the Delta-FL.
Excellent video, my friend. Honesty, tips, and knowledge. I've been researching this for several weeks and you somehow explained all my concerns in 1 8 minute video. Again, excellent work. I'm going to do the sub floor first, then line the block wall with 1" foam board (for R value and vapor barrier) then build the walls on top of the sub floor. The additional tuck tape around the perimeter where the foam board meets the subfloor may be overkill for my build, but we ain't come this far...
Thanks for your kind words. It’s great to see that a video I made years ago is still helpful to people working on their projects. You have a great plan in place. Here is a great resource on insulating basements that you might find helpful: www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/basement-insulation Best of luck on your project!
i am in the process of removing asbestos tiles and mastic and then I am going to prep the floors for new tiles.Reading and watching everything that I come across. You are the best!
Thanks for taking the time to put together such a great and informative video. It's answered questions I previously couldn't get answered about the sub floor from suppliers here in the UK.
I am super late but I’m beyond grateful for this video. Thank you so much! I’m building out my basement gym & the price of the dricore is killing me. I’m going to purchase the items in the video & I will install it in the rest of the basement to avoid spending my life savings on a floor. Thank you so much!
Thank you for giving us some honest information that's not skewed by some sponsored deal. This is how TH-cam used to be. Now it's all just clickbait commercial garbage. Thanks man, I'm gonna check out some of the other "how to" stuff on your channel. I just bought my first house and I'm finishing the basement. Just started pouring concrete after busting up the floor and putting in drain tile, and some of your videos cover things I'm about to start doing.
Thanks for the positive feedback! Make sure to subscribe to my channel I will be posting a lot more videos. I'll be documenting my next build from beginning to end.
I used Delta FL on the basement subfloor I designed 9 years ago. The Delta FL installation specs say do as you are doing here, and put the plywood directly on top of that. I did something a bit different. Mike Holmes goes on about the benefits of a thermal break. He installs rigid foam direct to the concrete. That's going to sweat, as concrete lets moisture come up as well as go down. Hence the need for the Delta FL. But on top of that, you'll get a vastly better floor if you install a thermal break. I put in 1" codeboard. That's R5 all over the floor. The thermal break works to keep a very stable temperature in your basement. It will cost more than what you're doing here, but the end result will be a floor that's so much nicer to have your feet on. And it will give you savings on your heating. If your basement is properly insulated, you'll go from sitting on top of a cold space in the main house, to sitting over a warm space. It turns out to be integral to the house's temperature and your bank balance.
Vic da G hey there, the order of the flooring is a subfloor like the delta, or dmx roll out stuff, then 1"of closed cell foam board, then the plywood subfloor. You can even do a tongue and groove floating subfloor and have the pieces connected with small strapping on the edges. Then frame in the basement walls and it'll keep everything from ever shifting. Now you've got a fully sealed vapor barrier without a million holes in it for tapcon screws. You've got a nice thermal break and energy saving floor and a dry and warm basement.
Is the landscaping fabric felt or the plastic kind? And why do I see people putting the vapor barrier above the plywood sometimes? Which way is correct?
Thank you for a very informative video! Apprecaite your camera person too. I did not get a headache from the camera moving too fast and all over the place like many you tube videos that are posted. Keep up the great work!
I am a teacher trainer and looking at this video and assessing the teaching skills, well I would definitely give 10 out of ten to you, perfect, clear, and simple!
Hi. I found your video because our project is going to be over our house floor (not basement). We are looking for an affordable option bc we bought an approximately 5,000+ sq ft slaughterhouse (yea, I know), and it’s all uneven concrete flooring with drains. We attempted to level them about 12 years ago and made it worse. Since then, it’s been a hurry up and wait, trying to find the answer. I think your video could be the right answer since it appears to be forgiving and affordable. We live in NW Florida with LOTS of humidity and rain and have an inground pool. Do you think this would be a feasible option for us!!??
There is an addendum to this though. A few weeks ago we had a small basement flood. The ground was saturated and it rained all night. We came down in the morning and there was a bit of water just on the surface of the laminate flooring. We ran an emergency pump out of the window, but the damage was already done. The laminate was cupping by the afternoon and it was so not going to be ok. Water in every single Delta FL pocket, filling up past my thermal break, through the plywood seams. All has been ripped out and is a big insurance job now. The difficulty I face is we laid our great big beautiful subfloor first and then built walls. Now we have to rebuild under those walls. My recommendation, following this experience is to build walls first, then do Delta. I don't know if there is a sacrificial product that can go on the concrete level, but I'd be looking for one and then put the bottom plate of the wall on top of that. Could composite wood material work? Is anyone using this method of construction? What's needed is something impervious to water to give you a couple of inches grace before water hits the wall framing. Then Delta all internal floor spaces and seal, thermal break, 5/8" T&G plywood. Would you save the floor if you used marine ply? If someone hasn't already designed a system for this, I don't know why. 3M, Corning, I'm looking at you awesome ideas generators. PS As a preventive measure, we also installed a second sump line on full strength sump pump, plus a battery backup unit with alarm in case of all round power failure.
LadyDMcollector thanks for sharing your experience. I framed my walls first before installing the Delta-FL. I used BluWood (mold/mildew/insect resistant) for the bottom plate. I staple FoamSealR Sill Gasket (made by Owens Corning) to the bottom of the base plate. This way the wood is not in direct contact with the concrete slab.
The BluWood sounds good for the bottom plate. We didn't use that (not aware of its like in Canada), just regular construction grade pine. Can BluWood withstand a flooded basement situation? Insurance companies are whizzbang about ripping out your basement installation, I notice. I absolutely loved the codeboard thermal break between the Delta and the plywood. Can't wait to reinstate that. I think we're going to have to use spray foam under the bottom plate to the wall, since the tear-out crew damaged my codeboard on the wall under the walls. So... next time I design a basement build, I'll be thinking about how I can refit in case there's a flood, AS WELL as installing multiple sump pumps and backups. Sigh. Good for you, putting up a no-nonsense film. Nice job.
LadyDMcollector thanks I appreciate it. I'm from Toronto you can purchase BluWood from Lowes. It's unfortunate that you had a flood in your basement. Thanks for sharing what happened. I'm sure others reading through the comment section will learn from your story.
at least you noticed, it can pool under the floor and into the pockets without affecting much immediately which is a disadvantage of this type of floor. while mine is well waterproofed, on the lowest/slopped parts i put tiny access panel in the floor i can manually check or put a small alarm under like leak detect rope. leaks will pool there and you'll know before its too late.
Landscaping fabric is nice. Roofing felt, tar paper is a better option if your basement floor "sweats, or wicks water" like in an older house where the builder didn't use poly under the slab. The tar paper will hold the moisture underneath better than a regular poly vapor barrier and the water concentration will reach equilibrium and stop wicking.
I came across this video at the perfect time...I am looking to finish my basement and this method seems to be really economical compared to the Dri-core method, also it seems so much simpler to do. How do I access your other videos...you also have very good presentation skills
Thanks Richard, I appreciate your feedback! This is a much more economical and efficient method compared to using Dri-Core. Here is a link to my Channel: th-cam.com/channels/O6uBjL3lbJEVQEwmEmPJxw.html Make sure you subscribe to my channel so you can get notifications when I upload new content.
Great video, and thanks for being so generous with your honest advice and perspective. Keep up the great work. I am doing a home theater and was not planning to do a subfloor. Just want to carpet the room. I understand the need for a subfloor for the nice laminate floor you did, but is it ok to do carpet and pad directly on the concrete floor? Thx.
This is directly from the manufacturers installation guide: The floor should be as level as possible. Remove any bumps or ridges. In areas with depressions greater than 1⁄4”, self-leveling compound should be used.
This video helped me a lot!!! Had to order the landscape fabric on the internet because of winter time in Canada, but I feel like it was worth it! Thanks you so much!
Thanks for the feedback Jimmy it’s much appreciated. I’m glad you found the video helpful. It’s a smart move installing the landscape fabric IMO. Good luck on your project.
Thanks for making this video. I was looking at a solution that would let the concrete slab breathe while being able to add insulation. Do you think I should be ok putting in that order : fabric, dimpled plastic sheet, rigid foam board then vinyl (like laminate snap-on)?
The materials and order you listed them in sounds great. I personally have never used foam board for added insulation. Let me know how it works. Thanks for your feedback and comment. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel to stay connected. Dwight
Great video, thanks! One question: would you lay down some foam underlayment on top of the OSB before installing the laminate? I guess that would make it less rigid, right? You don't lay the laminate in the video, so I'm asking.
This is an excellent technique, differences .. use ZIP flashing tape especially on perimeter. Use tyvek then fabric over the concrete. And 23/32 tongue groove OSB, and glue the joints.
Great video and very informative, but I have one Question: In your tutorial here, you stated that the manufacturer recommends low expansion foam at the edges, but instead you used the tuck tape to seal it down to create the vapour barrier. I was told by the manufacturer that you don't tape down the edges, because that 1/4'' gap is for the moisture to escape. Could you clarify the reason why you taped the edges? Also, they say leave a 1/4" for the DMX from the drywall, do you do the same for the OSB on top? I'm about to do my basement floors and I want to make sure I"m doing the right thing. Thanks.
Thanks! Just to clarify I used Delta-FL in this tutorial not DMX. I used tuck tape on the perimeter to maintain the vapor barrier. The slab conditions were typical so I’m not concerned about excess moisture beneath the subfloor. The main purpose of this subfloor is to provide separation between your finished floor and the concrete slab. The way I look at it is when you’re installing vapor barrier on a wall you don’t leave the perimeter with no seal so the wall “can breathe”. Ultimately the choice is up to you. This is the Cosella Dorken tech support line I use if you’re interested: 1 (888) 433-5824
Tor thank you so much! That means a lot to me. I have recently invested in new camera & audio gear. I am currently filming a new web series that will be documenting building my families dream home. Those episodes should start airing in the fall.
Not sure why you would emphasize cleaning all the organic material the apply landscape fabric which can contain organic. Once you screw down the subfloor the noise should be eliminated.
Hey man, thanks for this video, I'm going with this technique with the added 1" rigid foam insulation on top of the Delta FL. I have a question for you, I've had some moisture issues in my basement and aside from digging around the house and installing a better drain system and gravel, a contractor told me I should also seal all the basement floors with redguard to keep moisture out. That's like an extra $1K and am wondering if that wouldn't only create more problems down the line with the concrete not being able to breathe.
Zak Dylan Wass Zak Dylan Wass thanks Zak! I would recommend that you address any moisture problems and waterproof your foundation prior to installing the subfloor. Excavating around the perimeter of your home, fixing any cracks, installing new weepers and foundation wrap is the best way to address the problem. A cheaper alternative is to do an interior French drain system but addressing the problem from the outside is the best. The only time I have heard of waterproofing products being used on the concrete pad is due to hydrostatic water pressure. Any cracks in the concrete surface were chipped clean and K7 Waterplug was applied. It has a compressive strength of 5,500 psi after 28 days. Then a coat of Terraco Weathercoat 571 was applied. It's a waterproof coating suitable for concrete, masonry and plaster. I believe Redguard is designed for waterproofing wet areas such as a shower. You would have to check the product specs to see if it's rated for reducing hydrostatic water pressure. I don't think it's design for foundation repair. Once again, if possible you want to address any moisture problems from the outside.
I have a three season room I'm looking at putting ceramic tile on I have the Ditr product I'm looking at putting rigid foam over it and tile board over that would this work or would you recommend another route? Appreciate the detail in your video.
Thanks for the great video! We just finished 730 sqft basement and built the entire subfloor the same way your video describes. Our basement is very dry and the sump pump rarely ever runs. Only difference is that we are going to do our framing on top of the subfloor and we taped the Delta FL to our rigid foam installation instead of the walls. We will frame next and add Roxul R14 batts for total of R20 insulation. Took your advice with the little bit of silicone in the holes as well. All 230 Tapcons we used went in easier than expected! I recommend buying the Bosch bits, in a longer length than the ones that come with the Tapcons so its easier to get the depth that you need since you need to go in deeper than the length of the tapcon. One thing, in your description, the 1/4" tapcons require 3/16" bits, not an actual 1/4" bit. Also thanks for the landscape fabric tip. Worked like a charm and only added $50 to the project!
Thomas Lowry thanks for the feed back I really appreciate it. I will update the bit size in the description. I ended up using an SDS drill as well. It was much faster. I'm currently building my families dream home and documenting the entire build. I will be shooting an updated version of this as installation as well. Good luck with the rest of your project!
I'm doing something very similar, but I was going to hold off on rigid foaming the walls until I decide when I want to frame the walls. For now it will just be the floating floor in the basement. Question: can I tape the edges of the plastic right to the concrete walls as my vapor barrier or will the tape not hold well enough? Thank you!
I just removed laminate as there was mold smell coming from foam film that was put directly on concrete. I like Delta-FL idea but not sure about landscape fabric. Can it spread mold grows?
The landscape fabric is designed to be buried in soil and not break down from exposure to the elements. You won't have any issues with the landscape fabric growing mold. You can skip that step and not use it but then there is a chance of hearing that hallow sound.
If you strip one just insert a piece of insulated wire about 6” long and run the screw back in same hole. It works so well you can use wood screws. No joke...try it....you’ll be blown away how good it works. Speaker wire, automotive wire, as long as its stranded wire it will grab like mad.
Great video. I used the same technique as you. I went with DMX (yes I agree with you, all the same). The only difference technique I used I didn't drilling with screws into concrete. I used Mending plates to join and lock all the OSB floors. Using the Mending plates makes the job easier and less time to drill in screw. (yes drill the screws if there is a bounce in the floor). Therefore, your Delta is floating and so is your OSB floor. thanks for the video. Yes it is cheaper then dry-core.
Question: Thougts on mending plates instead of tapcons? I want to avoid drilling into the concrete, am on a budget, & will be sealing the OSB to use a “finished” floor until I’m ready to lay down plywood planks. I’ve taken copious notes on this video as I am doing a DIY remodel (with zero expertise) on my little house. So far, this video +comments has been the most helpful. I would love to follow your recommendations....EXCEPT, it would incredible for me if I could use mending plates rather than tapcons (both of which I had to look up, since I had no idea what they were!). Last year, I prepped, I sealed & painted the concrete thinking that it would fine, as I am in a warm, dry climate - but, it’s cold in the winter....so, now I’m committed to an insulating sub-floor. I know about dricore, but cost is a factor & it doesn’t look like rocket science...especially if I don’t have to drill. Thoughts & advice much appreciated!
Thanks for your comments and questions! I have never heard of mending plates as well until you mentioned them. I looked them up and I could see them people a possible issue for your finished floor. Now your subfloor surface will not be perfectly smooth due to the mending plates. I would contact the manufacture and ask them if its recommended using the mending plates rather than tapcons. Here is a link to the companies contact page: contact:www.deltams.ca/contact_deltams.htm
if you use the gun for the foam, it actually controls it pretty well. Does not make a mess at all and the bead is very controlled. I have one and probably would do it that way
Excellent video and advice....I am currently in the process of finishing a basement floor with the 2'x2' panels...there's a lot of work pounding them together....I will be using your method on my next project
Great vid. It really affirmed a lot of the things that I've been thinking about in my head while weighing my basement flooring options. New subscriber here!
Hi Simpson, Great job on the video, and all the information you provided. I have a question about the sub floor? I have a townhouse which is on a slab guess, and right now it has Ceramic Tile on it but I want to put down wood flooring thought out, and my question is can I just lay the padding that you have in your video on the cement floor and then lay the wood down? Any help you can provide would be great. Again, awesome job, and the Fireplace looks awesome as well!
Thanks Linda! If it were my home I would demo the ceramic floor first the install the new sub floor. If you want don't want to remove the ceramic tile you could install landscape fabric then Delta-FL. I wouldn't recommend installing OSB in top. Just install an under pad and floating floor over the Delta-FL.
The holes on the top side of the Delta FL could act as cups and could hold water if the basement were to flood. You would have to take up all the osb. I recommend dry barrier subfloor. Has dimples on the bottom side and the top is flat.
If that much water is in the basement the entire floor would have to be removed anyway. The slab would have to be exposed and air movers would have to properly dry the space.
Interesting video but you have to gap OSB about 1/8th inch around all sides. If you don't, you risk cupping when the OSB expands. Also, tongue and groove would be a better choice for floors. Finally, code requires far more fasteners than 8 per sheet of plywood.
Thanks for your input it’s much appreciated! I agree that a 1/8” gap should be left around the perimeter of the OSB for expansion and contraction. Unless, an OSB like AdvanTech is being used because it has the gap incorporated in its T & G. T & G laminate floors were used. In this case the concrete slab is the structural floor. The subfloor was installed as per manufacturers recommendations in regards to the amount of screws that were used.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd Not to be argumentative, but building codes (which vary) usually require fasteners every 6"-8". They will govern, not the manufacturer's instructions. It is difficult to know what code is, because this is such an unusual application. Typically subfloors require fastenets 4" OC on seams and 8" OC in the field.
FL FL it’s all good I appreciate the input. I agree with with in regards to code with typical floor sheathing installed on top of floor joists. In this videos application it’s a sub floor over a structural concrete slab.
Great tutorial/video but a couple things. In your video you called the subfloor "OSB Plywood" - It's either OSB or plywood, not both. Also, when installing subfloor never slam the tounge and groove tight together. There should be a 1/16 to 1/8th inch gap between joints to allow for expansion of the wood. I'm not sure if you did this in the vid but it looked tight. Thank you.
Further on this method of using osb sheets and butting them together (tightly) as shown in the video.... In theory I can see where Pete's logic makes sense; as wood is a natural material prone to expansion/contracting. Especially if they're not tongue and groove sheets too, I could foresee butt ends rubbing and squeaking over time. But at the same time, a very popular subfloor product like dricore panels are installed together with tongue and grove with no consideration of expansion... So what is the correct school of thought here?
Great and informative video. I am going to be using this system on a pole building slab floor. New construction, cold climate here in Michigan. I have plenty of height and my entry doors are 3.5 inches above cement grade, so no clearance issues. I would like to use 1 inch ridgid foam board for added R value. My concern is could the TapCon screws compress the foam board at that thickness, making my OSB appear wavy? Should I step down to 1/2 inch foam board to be safe? Thanks and keep up the great video work. People like you make TH-cam great!
Thanks for your kind comments. I would recommend you give the Cosella Dorken tech support a call with that question: 1 (888) 433-5824. They are the manufacturer and will be able to steer you in the right direction.
I also want to add some insulation foam board to my cement floor to add R-value and help make the floor feel 'warmer' What did you end up using thickness wise and how did it workout, would you do anything differently?
In the end, I decided to use no foam board at all. I rolled out DMX 1 step in the entire building, except for a 1 car garage area that I left bare. About 1000 SQ ft of area with DMX. I framed interior walls directly on the DMX, using tapcons to secure to the floor. (1 tapcon about every 2 feet along the framing) Most of the DMX had LifeProof vinyl plank flooring installed directly over it. It's worked great and the floor is quite comfortable, even now with outdoor temps in the teens. The exterior walls have 3 inch thick foam in addition to fiberglass loose fill blown in using roll out mesh to hold in place before drywall. ( I ran the lower 4 feet of drywall first on exterior walls and stapled mesh to the studs in the upper parts, cutting a slit where needed to insert the hose for fill. I also put 24 inches of fiberglass blown in the ceiling.
Thank you for posting this great video. You have saved me $$. Your presentation style is excellent. I’m wondering if you have any videos pertaining to installing ceiling in a basement. I want to use drop but I’m concerned about losing precious headroom. I don’t want to go drywall, I want full access to plumbing, electric, etc
Fantastic job well done I don't know if you are a professional or not but I know professionals that would not do a job that well done but I always like to do a nice base molding all the way around and a lot of times I will make my own base molding
I do construction and I'm at the point where me and a partner are able to buy and flip houses and everybody wants a basement that's basically finished or done to the point where they can do a few things and make a rental apartment so when it comes to doing the floor I use tar paper for roofing from my vapor barrier because are basement it's extremely very extremely important to have that for stay dry because you will have mold growing under your floor plus taping it off is just important as that vapor barrier but I will put down on top of that ceramic flooring it looks like wood very adorable does not scratch and they just snap together so easily you could use a razor knife to cut the flooring I just use my chop box just because it's faster but people if I'm going over a wooden floor then I'll just use a staple gun but this was a good video
I have had this system in my basement for 16 years now, great as far as warmth, no hollow sound anywhere, they did not use landscape cloth underneath, I would suggest against that personally. At some point, you will get water coming in, anywhere water has gotten to the basement floor the worst spots are at the fasteners, they act as a wick for water and also you are puncturing the protective membrane. It's like going for a canoe ride and poking holes in your canoe. Overall a good cost-effective solution but can you not leave the OSB without the fasteners? Still looking for a better solution!
Unfortunately, the OSB has to be fastened the concrete floor. Otherwise there would be to much movement and the finished flooring surface would reflect that movement.
Your videos seem to always be worth while watching , including this one I have a question pertaing to this type of installation . I have a sun room that may have been an ( add on with a concrete floor , there is no basement in this area of the house )at one point those linoleum square were put down and has stayed for decades it's still there cracks and all then a carpet had been over that for too long as well , I ve taken that up and would like to continue the wood flooring that in the rest of the house , I'm hearing I can put hard wood over this concrete ( hopefully ) use ing the pre method you just showed on this clip , and then I hear others saying it's not a good idea .Whats YOUR OPINION on the subject ?
Bruce Beamon if that sun Room is not a condition space and humidity levels are not within the manufacturers specs you may run into problems. Warping and gaps may form between the planks. You could install a subfloor and then the hardwood if you have concerns with the slab. You could also install directly on top of the slab using a glue down method. There are specific glues you can use for this application such as Tite Bond 771- Step. It’s an advanced polymer adhesive, moisture and sound control system. It provides moisture control protection which is critical for installations over a concrete slab in basements or slab on grade applications. It’s critical that the concrete is dry to the touch and fully cured to bond properly. It can be used to secure engineered hardwood, solid wood, bamboo and cork flooring.
Going to give this a go this weekend. We just pulled up shag carpet to discover concrete. Not a basement, just an office. Anything you'd do differently for a room on a slab?
Thanks for leaving a comment. You're install should go smoothly tomorrow and good choice on your subfloor materials. To keep updated with my new videos in the future make sure to subscribe to my channel.
Hey!! Thank you so much for. The video!! It’s Clean cut and easy to follow. I just pulled Up carpet, and it’s. Not in the basement so would you recommend doing anything differently? Will I still need the Poly product or could I just put the vapor barrier ? I’m in SC so chances Of flooding are Slim. I’m just wondering if there are any advantages to using it outside of a basement/ flood prone area.
Thanks! My apologies for the late reply. Having a good under-pad is money well spent. If your budget allows for a subfloor on top of the concrete it will be better than not having one.
Nice and very well said about Drycore! :D Great job, did my research and this i a way to go as for me. Also nice access panel on the left side on the floor. Is it for sewage cleanout? I have mine in the middle of the room for some reason on new property and looking the way to make it look good.
It’s a good idea to leave at least an 1/8” gap between the OSB sheets for expansion and contraction. I forgot to mention that point in the video. Some OSB brands such as AdvanTech have that gap built in to their tongue and groove.
Great vid and thanks for the awesome info. Would the same principles apply if putting in flooring in a garage? (building a home office in the corner of the garage)
We have a difficult flooring situation...our basement floor experienced either heaving across the middle of our basment floor near the footers, or, settling around the perimeter of our basement floor. Either way, structural engineer evaluated and gave us the all clear as far as no water issues or foundation wall issues to worry about. However, we have 1/2" cracks that run down the middle of our basement floor. We sealed them, and have never had water issues. Now that we are wanting to finish the basement we realized that our floor is not level and is off by as much as 2.5 inches in some spots--so the floor near the exterior walls sit lower than the middle of our basement floor. We put 33 bags of floor leveler down to fix the worst parts, but we have a 12X12 section that is still unlevel...and so we have what feels like a hill or a peak in the middle of the room. My question for you is would this subfloor work for our floor since it's still quite unlevel? My fear is we would still get quite a bit of "rocking" sensation under the OSB. We looked at Dri Core and we are completely out of spec for using that product. Basically we are working with a floor that isn't flat. So, will this subfloor type work or not?
This is directly from the manufacturers spec sheet: "The floor should be as level as possible. Remove any bumps or ridges. In areas with depressions greater than ¼”, self-leveling compound should be used." Unfortunately you will have to do some more prep work most likely before you can install your subfloor.
Very clear and well structured tutorial! I do have a question for you. I have an enclosed patio addition that has tile on concrete. The patio floor level is lower than the house floor and would like to raise it to the same level. Would you recommend installing this subfloor directly on tile?
Septimiu Sarca thanks! It's always a best practice to remove the old material then install your new flooring. It's going to be tough to properly secure your subfloor with tile underneath. Usually your sub floor is installed on top of wood joist and fastened with wood screws or installed on top of concrete using concrete screws to fasten it to the concrete slab.
Great Video! 2 questions I have... 1) I didn’t caulk the tap cons before drilling them in. Is that a problem? 2) I tuck taped my outside edges up to bare block wall. Should I leave those open for air flow underneath? I have never had moisture problems and I was thinking the DMX AirGap would keep any moisture issues at bay. Worried I may be creating a bigger problem by not having any airflow available.
Intro: 0:30
Landscape Fabric: 0:53
Delta-Fl Taping Seams: 1:37
Installing Wood Subfloor: 3:38
Installing Tapcons: 5:32
Outro: 7:23
Thanks for this very well explained video. I’m doing every step as per the video but I am finding the screws are not going in flush. Are there differences in strength of impact drivers. Mine works great until the last 3mm. Very frustarting
@@andyzankowicz1802 you may not be drilling the holes deep enough. Also, it will help if you back out the screw when it starts to bind. Then screw it back in feathering the trigger. When you back out the screw it helps remove any concrete particles that are binding.
Why didn't you put the Delta underlayment underneath the wall stud plate? It stops at the wall.
@@falsealarmno I had my framing done already. You can install it underneath the framing. It's a better method to have the Delta-FL beneath non load bearing walls IMO.
Nicely done! I am a retired structural engineer and wish all contractors would have your conviction and dedication to detail. Cheers from Canada.
I’m Canadian as well! I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching.
I'm blown away at the quality of information. You didn't try to sell anything, you just gave straightforward information in an easy to digest manner. I'm eager to explore your other videos
@@jmurray726 thanks for the comment. I have been slacking on posting new content but check out my other videos. Thanks
I've been watching videos on doing this exact thing for two days now. FINALLY, I've found the one that explains exactly what I need to know, and in language I can understand (as a DIY'er). THANK YOU!
That’s what this YT channel is about. Simplifying the construction process so that anyone can understand the process. Thanks for your support it’s much appreciated.
I like that you put silicone in the screw hole for vapour barrier continuity. A small detail that I haven't seen others do. Nice work.
Thanks. It’s all about the small details.
I could never find a contractor that would care this much
They are out there! Keep looking.
Very refreshing to see a pro at work giving instructions and not trying to sell you something. Thanks a lot sir
It’s fun to share knowledge so that others can apply it to their projects. Thanks.
Great video and thanks for landscape fabric tip. TY for sharing. Ideally, Delta-FL / OSB T&G is installed onto slab before non-load bearing walls are built. Then, for exterior walls, frame them ~1" from the foundation wall and create vapor barrier with closed-cell spray foam. This method provides an ideal transition from the subfloor underlayment to the poured concrete foundation wall.
Thank You for the regular everyday normal guy installation video! cheers
No problem! Thanks for watching and the support.
Best darn video about subfloors and underlayment installation I've seen to date. Great job. Very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback! It’s much appreciated.
Man you just saved me a ton of time and money! Thanks for posting 👍🏽
Glad I could help!
This is a great video regarding install of wood sub-floor on concrete basement floor. The main problem I see is, is that very few builders can properly dig & install basement structures using proper site prep., and drainage (my sub-contractor experiences). It's refreshing to see someone (this guy) doing a job correctly. I hope he stays busy and makes good profits.
Thanks Mike! I am more than busy haha working on my own projects for the most part.
Excellent instruction and calm voice with no fluff. Keep up the great work young man !!
Thanks!
Good job buddy great vid. I’ve been in construction for 17 years and I just nod my head when I see diy’s leaving Home Depot with three buggy’s of those 2 by 2 panels such a rip off, for my basement I actually used foundation membrane with the landscaping cloth already attached, as I got it for free from work. Again good job on showing ppl how to save their hard earned money.
Thanks! You have to be careful using the foundation wrap for a subfloor application. It is manufactured with different plastics and generally not built as stiff as the Delta-FL.
Great video. This solidified my basement flooring plan. Kudos to camera person.
Thanks! It was my wife that shot the video. I will be sure to pass on the message. Good luck with your project.
Excellent video, my friend. Honesty, tips, and knowledge. I've been researching this for several weeks and you somehow explained all my concerns in 1 8 minute video. Again, excellent work.
I'm going to do the sub floor first, then line the block wall with 1" foam board (for R value and vapor barrier) then build the walls on top of the sub floor. The additional tuck tape around the perimeter where the foam board meets the subfloor may be overkill for my build, but we ain't come this far...
Thanks for your kind words. It’s great to see that a video I made years ago is still helpful to people working on their projects. You have a great plan in place.
Here is a great resource on insulating basements that you might find helpful:
www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/basement-insulation
Best of luck on your project!
i am in the process of removing asbestos tiles and mastic and then I am going to prep the floors for new tiles.Reading and watching everything that I come across. You are the best!
Thanks for the feedback. It’s greatly appreciated 🙌🏽
Thanks for taking the time to put together such a great and informative video. It's answered questions I previously couldn't get answered about the sub floor from suppliers here in the UK.
Steven Morrison thanks! That's exactly why I created this TH-cam channel help people like yourself. Thanks for the support.
I am super late but I’m beyond grateful for this video. Thank you so much! I’m building out my basement gym & the price of the dricore is killing me. I’m going to purchase the items in the video & I will install it in the rest of the basement to avoid spending my life savings on a floor. Thank you so much!
I'm happy to hear you found the video helpful! Wishing you the best of luck on your project.
Use Simpson Strong-Tie Titen Turbo masonry screws. They drive easier and are stronger, which means they don't snap as easily. You'll be glad you did.
@@markhewitt3160 Thanks for the heads up!
Great work! Thanks for being so thorough, and slow enough for people to listen to! Room looks super nice! I may do our basement with the same colors!
greatnationnow thanks! I purchased the paint from Benjamin Moore. Here are the colour codes HC-166 Kendall Charcoal and 2112-70 American White.
Thank you for giving us some honest information that's not skewed by some sponsored deal. This is how TH-cam used to be. Now it's all just clickbait commercial garbage. Thanks man, I'm gonna check out some of the other "how to" stuff on your channel. I just bought my first house and I'm finishing the basement. Just started pouring concrete after busting up the floor and putting in drain tile, and some of your videos cover things I'm about to start doing.
Thanks for the feedback and support. It’s much appreciated 👍🏽. Best of luck in your project.
This guy knows what he's doing. Great work and thanks for the information!
Thanks for the positive feedback! Make sure to subscribe to my channel I will be posting a lot more videos. I'll be documenting my next build from beginning to end.
I am trying to put a floor in a house in spain it has rising damp in the walls, and was interested what youd suggest?
@@stuartdicks2082 젻사 듀엣 ㅠ 모두 ㅐㅅ ㅓ
@@simpsonpropertiesltd 컫유
Perfectly done perfectly explained you even moved the silicone away from the top of the screw.
Thanks!
I used Delta FL on the basement subfloor I designed 9 years ago. The Delta FL installation specs say do as you are doing here, and put the plywood directly on top of that. I did something a bit different. Mike Holmes goes on about the benefits of a thermal break. He installs rigid foam direct to the concrete. That's going to sweat, as concrete lets moisture come up as well as go down. Hence the need for the Delta FL. But on top of that, you'll get a vastly better floor if you install a thermal break. I put in 1" codeboard. That's R5 all over the floor. The thermal break works to keep a very stable temperature in your basement. It will cost more than what you're doing here, but the end result will be a floor that's so much nicer to have your feet on. And it will give you savings on your heating. If your basement is properly insulated, you'll go from sitting on top of a cold space in the main house, to sitting over a warm space. It turns out to be integral to the house's temperature and your bank balance.
LadyDMcollector thanks for the I fo. What is the order or materials on your cement floor, and combined thickness?
LadyDMcollector when you talk about 1” codeboard for thermal break are you referring to the R5 pink panther foam insulation?
LadyDMcollector Hello did you put the osb over the codebord ? Thanks Rich
Hello is it better to use a concrete sealer first?Will that fabric cause moisture?You are very helpful Thanks Rich
Vic da G hey there, the order of the flooring is a subfloor like the delta, or dmx roll out stuff, then 1"of closed cell foam board, then the plywood subfloor. You can even do a tongue and groove floating subfloor and have the pieces connected with small strapping on the edges. Then frame in the basement walls and it'll keep everything from ever shifting. Now you've got a fully sealed vapor barrier without a million holes in it for tapcon screws. You've got a nice thermal break and energy saving floor and a dry and warm basement.
Excellent video. Covered everything (no pun intended) and you didn't take forever to do it. Basement looks great!
Thanks!
I just told someone yesterday, I thought this would work.. and you proved it.. awesome. Thank you... very cost effective.
Awesome! I’m glad you found the video helpful.
Is the landscaping fabric felt or the plastic kind?
And why do I see people putting the vapor barrier above the plywood sometimes? Which way is correct?
Thanks a lot for posting. I think there's some great advice in here. So happy to live in the age of "free information"
Thanks Lucas! I agree, we live in an amazing time with an abundance of information at our fingertips.
Just finished my floor install two weeks ago using this method in my detached garage. Feels great and Im very happy with it
Thank you for a very informative video! Apprecaite your camera person too. I did not get a headache from the camera moving too fast and all over the place like many you tube videos that are posted. Keep up the great work!
Lori Perkins thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback. It was my wife that filmed this I'll be sure to pass on your kind words.
I am a teacher trainer and looking at this video and assessing the teaching skills, well I would definitely give 10 out of ten to you, perfect, clear, and simple!
Thanks Bill! Your feedback is appreciated.
What a nice, elaborate and precise how-to video! Thank you very much.
Learn Bangla thanks for the positive feedback and subscribing!
Hi, How much height did you loose in total? I understand the OSBs are 5/8. Thanks.
Learn Bangla Delta-Fl is 5/16" + 5/8" OSB = 15/16". It's almost 1" in total.
Hi. I found your video because our project is going to be over our house floor (not basement). We are looking for an affordable option bc we bought an approximately 5,000+ sq ft slaughterhouse (yea, I know), and it’s all uneven concrete flooring with drains. We attempted to level them about 12 years ago and made it worse. Since then, it’s been a hurry up and wait, trying to find the answer. I think your video could be the right answer since it appears to be forgiving and affordable. We live in NW Florida with LOTS of humidity and rain and have an inground pool. Do you think this would be a feasible option for us!!??
PS, we are diy-ers (fortunately or unfortunately?!?!)
Thank you for making this video. One of the easiest overall to follow.
Thanks for the support! It's much appreciated.
There is an addendum to this though. A few weeks ago we had a small basement flood. The ground was saturated and it rained all night. We came down in the morning and there was a bit of water just on the surface of the laminate flooring. We ran an emergency pump out of the window, but the damage was already done. The laminate was cupping by the afternoon and it was so not going to be ok. Water in every single Delta FL pocket, filling up past my thermal break, through the plywood seams. All has been ripped out and is a big insurance job now.
The difficulty I face is we laid our great big beautiful subfloor first and then built walls. Now we have to rebuild under those walls.
My recommendation, following this experience is to build walls first, then do Delta.
I don't know if there is a sacrificial product that can go on the concrete level, but I'd be looking for one and then put the bottom plate of the wall on top of that. Could composite wood material work? Is anyone using this method of construction? What's needed is something impervious to water to give you a couple of inches grace before water hits the wall framing. Then Delta all internal floor spaces and seal, thermal break, 5/8" T&G plywood. Would you save the floor if you used marine ply?
If someone hasn't already designed a system for this, I don't know why.
3M, Corning, I'm looking at you awesome ideas generators.
PS As a preventive measure, we also installed a second sump line on full strength sump pump, plus a battery backup unit with alarm in case of all round power failure.
LadyDMcollector thanks for sharing your experience. I framed my walls first before installing the Delta-FL. I used BluWood (mold/mildew/insect resistant) for the bottom plate. I staple FoamSealR Sill Gasket (made by Owens Corning) to the bottom of the base plate. This way the wood is not in direct contact with the concrete slab.
The BluWood sounds good for the bottom plate. We didn't use that (not aware of its like in Canada), just regular construction grade pine. Can BluWood withstand a flooded basement situation? Insurance companies are whizzbang about ripping out your basement installation, I notice.
I absolutely loved the codeboard thermal break between the Delta and the plywood. Can't wait to reinstate that.
I think we're going to have to use spray foam under the bottom plate to the wall, since the tear-out crew damaged my codeboard on the wall under the walls. So... next time I design a basement build, I'll be thinking about how I can refit in case there's a flood, AS WELL as installing multiple sump pumps and backups. Sigh.
Good for you, putting up a no-nonsense film. Nice job.
LadyDMcollector thanks I appreciate it. I'm from Toronto you can purchase BluWood from Lowes. It's unfortunate that you had a flood in your basement. Thanks for sharing what happened. I'm sure others reading through the comment section will learn from your story.
Hope so, that's why I was so detailed.
at least you noticed, it can pool under the floor and into the pockets without affecting much immediately which is a disadvantage of this type of floor. while mine is well waterproofed, on the lowest/slopped parts i put tiny access panel in the floor i can manually check or put a small alarm under like leak detect rope. leaks will pool there and you'll know before its too late.
Well explained, easy to follow, great advice... even the boo boo's Easy Peasy to follow these instructions.. Thanks... Keep these coming...
Thank you 🙌🏽
Very informative video. Thanks for the info.
Thanks I’m glad you found it helpful!
Landscaping fabric is nice. Roofing felt, tar paper is a better option if your basement floor "sweats, or wicks water" like in an older house where the builder didn't use poly under the slab. The tar paper will hold the moisture underneath better than a regular poly vapor barrier and the water concentration will reach equilibrium and stop wicking.
That's a great point for people who have concrete slabs with a heavy moisture content. Thanks for the tip!
I really liked your job am convinced another member on board 👌🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words 👌🏽
Way late to this vid - but this is exactly what I need to do in an old porch turned sunroom on my 80yo house. Quality stuff. Thank you!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
I came across this video at the perfect time...I am looking to finish my basement and this method seems to be really economical compared to the Dri-core method, also it seems so much simpler to do.
How do I access your other videos...you also have very good presentation skills
Thanks Richard, I appreciate your feedback!
This is a much more economical and efficient method compared to using Dri-Core.
Here is a link to my Channel: th-cam.com/channels/O6uBjL3lbJEVQEwmEmPJxw.html
Make sure you subscribe to my channel so you can get notifications when I upload new content.
Richard Haslam and
cool i dont care
Great video, and thanks for being so generous with your honest advice and perspective. Keep up the great work. I am doing a home theater and was not planning to do a subfloor. Just want to carpet the room. I understand the need for a subfloor for the nice laminate floor you did, but is it ok to do carpet and pad directly on the concrete floor? Thx.
Very good video. the lady behind the camera sounds that has hypnotized from your perfect job.
The lady behind the camera is my wife and was probably annoyed to film this. Far from being hypnotized by my work hahaha
Do I need to level the concrete before I start working? my floor has up and downs about 1/2 inch. Thank you
Yes you should. Floor leveling compound is easy to mix and pour, it dries fast and saves a lot of grief and disappointment later.
This is directly from the manufacturers installation guide:
The floor should be as level as possible. Remove any bumps or ridges. In areas with depressions greater than 1⁄4”, self-leveling compound should be used.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd What about areas with a 3 inch depression?
This video helped me a lot!!! Had to order the landscape fabric on the internet because of winter time in Canada, but I feel like it was worth it! Thanks you so much!
Thanks for the feedback Jimmy it’s much appreciated. I’m glad you found the video helpful. It’s a smart move installing the landscape fabric IMO. Good luck on your project.
Thanks for making this video. I was looking at a solution that would let the concrete slab breathe while being able to add insulation. Do you think I should be ok putting in that order : fabric, dimpled plastic sheet, rigid foam board then vinyl (like laminate snap-on)?
The materials and order you listed them in sounds great. I personally have never used foam board for added insulation. Let me know how it works. Thanks for your feedback and comment. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel to stay connected.
Dwight
In the UK we call this product / method "tanking". That's what you should search for if you are interested in doing this over here. Great vid btw!
Thanks for the info. That’s interesting!
Great video, thanks! One question: would you lay down some foam underlayment on top of the OSB before installing the laminate? I guess that would make it less rigid, right? You don't lay the laminate in the video, so I'm asking.
Thanks! Yes definitely use a foam underlayment if you're installing laminate flooring. Some laminate floors come with an under pad built-in as well.
This is an excellent technique, differences .. use ZIP flashing tape especially on perimeter. Use tyvek then fabric over the concrete. And 23/32 tongue groove OSB, and glue the joints.
I really like those details you use. I’ll give that a try in my next project. Thanks for sharing!
Great video and very informative, but I have one Question: In your tutorial here, you stated that the manufacturer recommends low expansion foam at the edges, but instead you used the tuck tape to seal it down to create the vapour barrier. I was told by the manufacturer that you don't tape down the edges, because that 1/4'' gap is for the moisture to escape. Could you clarify the reason why you taped the edges? Also, they say leave a 1/4" for the DMX from the drywall, do you do the same for the OSB on top? I'm about to do my basement floors and I want to make sure I"m doing the right thing. Thanks.
Thanks! Just to clarify I used Delta-FL in this tutorial not DMX. I used tuck tape on the perimeter to maintain the vapor barrier. The slab conditions were typical so I’m not concerned about excess moisture beneath the subfloor. The main purpose of this subfloor is to provide separation between your finished floor and the concrete slab. The way I look at it is when you’re installing vapor barrier on a wall you don’t leave the perimeter with no seal so the wall “can breathe”. Ultimately the choice is up to you. This is the Cosella Dorken tech support line I use if you’re interested: 1 (888) 433-5824
Your videos are very professional and very thorough. One of the best on youtube. Looking forward to more.
Tor thank you so much! That means a lot to me. I have recently invested in new camera & audio gear. I am currently filming a new web series that will be documenting building my families dream home. Those episodes should start airing in the fall.
That sounds exciting. I'm really looking forward to this. Having seen many videos, I get the feeling you've got something unique here. Cheers :)
Thank you, I almost skipped the fabric step.
You're welcome! It's an important step in my opinion. I'm glad you watched the video before your install.
Not sure why you would emphasize cleaning all the organic material the apply landscape fabric which can contain organic. Once you screw down the subfloor the noise should be eliminated.
Very nicely done
Thanks!
Hey man, thanks for this video, I'm going with this technique with the added 1" rigid foam insulation on top of the Delta FL. I have a question for you, I've had some moisture issues in my basement and aside from digging around the house and installing a better drain system and gravel, a contractor told me I should also seal all the basement floors with redguard to keep moisture out. That's like an extra $1K and am wondering if that wouldn't only create more problems down the line with the concrete not being able to breathe.
Zak Dylan Wass Zak Dylan Wass thanks Zak! I would recommend that you address any moisture problems and waterproof your foundation prior to installing the subfloor. Excavating around the perimeter of your home, fixing any cracks, installing new weepers and foundation wrap is the best way to address the problem. A cheaper alternative is to do an interior French drain system but addressing the problem from the outside is the best. The only time I have heard of waterproofing products being used on the concrete pad is due to hydrostatic water pressure. Any cracks in the concrete surface were chipped clean and K7 Waterplug was applied. It has a compressive strength of 5,500 psi after 28 days. Then a coat of Terraco Weathercoat 571 was applied. It's a waterproof coating suitable for concrete, masonry and plaster. I believe Redguard is designed for waterproofing wet areas such as a shower. You would have to check the product specs to see if it's rated for reducing hydrostatic water pressure. I don't think it's design for foundation repair. Once again, if possible you want to address any moisture problems from the outside.
Could you install tile on this?
I have a three season room I'm looking at putting ceramic tile on I have the Ditr product I'm looking at putting rigid foam over it and tile board over that would this work or would you recommend another route? Appreciate the detail in your video.
Hello guys, looks like this method is very simple and I love the landscaping fabric idea, I will definitely try this in our basement...
Peter Olejar that's great to hear! Let me know how your install goes.
Thanks for the great video! We just finished 730 sqft basement and built the entire subfloor the same way your video describes. Our basement is very dry and the sump pump rarely ever runs. Only difference is that we are going to do our framing on top of the subfloor and we taped the Delta FL to our rigid foam installation instead of the walls. We will frame next and add Roxul R14 batts for total of R20 insulation. Took your advice with the little bit of silicone in the holes as well.
All 230 Tapcons we used went in easier than expected! I recommend buying the Bosch bits, in a longer length than the ones that come with the Tapcons so its easier to get the depth that you need since you need to go in deeper than the length of the tapcon. One thing, in your description, the 1/4" tapcons require 3/16" bits, not an actual 1/4" bit.
Also thanks for the landscape fabric tip. Worked like a charm and only added $50 to the project!
Thomas Lowry thanks for the feed back I really appreciate it. I will update the bit size in the description. I ended up using an SDS drill as well. It was much faster. I'm currently building my families dream home and documenting the entire build. I will be shooting an updated version of this as installation as well. Good luck with the rest of your project!
I'm doing something very similar, but I was going to hold off on rigid foaming the walls until I decide when I want to frame the walls. For now it will just be the floating floor in the basement. Question: can I tape the edges of the plastic right to the concrete walls as my vapor barrier or will the tape not hold well enough? Thank you!
@@simpsonpropertiesltd : Agreed! SDS driils are the best! Driils like butter! 👍
I just removed laminate as there was mold smell coming from foam film that was put directly on concrete. I like Delta-FL idea but not sure about landscape fabric. Can it spread mold grows?
The landscape fabric is designed to be buried in soil and not break down from exposure to the elements. You won't have any issues with the landscape fabric growing mold. You can skip that step and not use it but then there is a chance of hearing that hallow sound.
Great men. Excellent explanations. I understood every step. Thanks a lot. Good luck in every project.
Thanks Juan!
Landscape fabric under the Delta FL. Brilliant!
Simple ideas are always the best ones 💡
Great video man! That is a good looking room.
Thanks!
Thank you. Smarts with budget saving tips. Good video.
Thanks 🙏🏽
If you strip one just insert a piece of insulated wire about 6” long and run the screw back in same hole.
It works so well you can use wood screws.
No joke...try it....you’ll be blown away how good it works.
Speaker wire, automotive wire, as long as its stranded wire it will grab like mad.
That’s a great tip! I have heard of people using pieces of solder as well. Thanks for sharing that.
Very good idea I was going to install those panel at $8 a piece Thank You
No problem. I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Gee, you made it look easy! Thanks!!
No problem 👍🏽
Nice video and explanation. Only thing is the proper tape to use is the blue tape since it's waterproof.
Thanks.
Yeah, excellent video. Well done. I will use this system on a basement I am doing right now. Great notes in the title section as well.
1UTUBEUSERNAME thanks ✌🏽
Great video. I used the same technique as you. I went with DMX (yes I agree with you, all the same). The only difference technique I used I didn't drilling with screws into concrete. I used Mending plates to join and lock all the OSB floors. Using the Mending plates makes the job easier and less time to drill in screw. (yes drill the screws if there is a bounce in the floor). Therefore, your Delta is floating and so is your OSB floor. thanks for the video. Yes it is cheaper then dry-core.
Ang ipp thanks for you comments! I'll have to check out those mending plates.
Very helpful video!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dude! So nice to see how its done and done right! BEAUTIFUL JOB!
Thanks!! I really appreciate it.
Question: Thougts on mending plates instead of tapcons? I want to avoid drilling into the concrete, am on a budget, & will be sealing the OSB to use a “finished” floor until I’m ready to lay down plywood planks. I’ve taken copious notes on this video as I am doing a DIY remodel (with zero expertise) on my little house. So far, this video +comments has been the most helpful. I would love to follow your recommendations....EXCEPT, it would incredible for me if I could use mending plates rather than tapcons (both of which I had to look up, since I had no idea what they were!). Last year, I prepped, I sealed & painted the concrete thinking that it would fine, as I am in a warm, dry climate - but, it’s cold in the winter....so, now I’m committed to an insulating sub-floor. I know about dricore, but cost is a factor & it doesn’t look like rocket science...especially if I don’t have to drill. Thoughts & advice much appreciated!
Thanks for your comments and questions! I have never heard of mending plates as well until you mentioned them. I looked them up and I could see them people a possible issue for your finished floor. Now your subfloor surface will not be perfectly smooth due to the mending plates. I would contact the manufacture and ask them if its recommended using the mending plates rather than tapcons. Here is a link to the companies contact page:
contact:www.deltams.ca/contact_deltams.htm
if you use the gun for the foam, it actually controls it pretty well. Does not make a mess at all and the bead is very controlled. I have one and probably would do it that way
Good to know. Thanks for your input!
Great video. Great detail. The last one wants is to find out after the floor is done is they put the membrane down the wrong way. :-)
Thanks! Image installing all the uncoupling membrane upside down haha. That would suck.
Excellent video and advice....I am currently in the process of finishing a basement floor with the 2'x2' panels...there's a lot of work pounding them together....I will be using your method on my next project
Thanks!
Wow awesome great job
Mark Pyles Thanks!
Great vid. It really affirmed a lot of the things that I've been thinking about in my head while weighing my basement flooring options. New subscriber here!
That's great to hear! I will be uploading more content soon. I appreciate that you hit the sub button. If you ever have any questions let me know.
Hi Simpson, Great job on the video, and all the information you provided. I have a question about the sub floor? I have a townhouse which is on a slab guess, and right now it has Ceramic Tile on it but I want to put down wood flooring thought out, and my question is can I just lay the padding that you have in your video on the cement floor and then lay the wood down? Any help you can provide would be great. Again, awesome job, and the Fireplace looks awesome as well!
Thanks Linda! If it were my home I would demo the ceramic floor first the install the new sub floor. If you want don't want to remove the ceramic tile you could install landscape fabric then Delta-FL. I wouldn't recommend installing OSB in top. Just install an under pad and floating floor over the Delta-FL.
The holes on the top side of the Delta FL could act as cups and could hold water if the basement were to flood. You would have to take up all the osb. I recommend dry barrier subfloor. Has dimples on the bottom side and the top is flat.
If that much water is in the basement the entire floor would have to be removed anyway. The slab would have to be exposed and air movers would have to properly dry the space.
I will be doing subfloor on the second floor at home. I was wondering, the concrete is poured about 3 years ago, should I install vapor barrier ?
If you’re using a membrane such as Delta-FL that acts as a vapor barrier.
Great video, very informative. Thank you!
Thanks 👍🏽
Thanks for the video
No problem! Best of luck on your project.
Interesting video but you have to gap OSB about 1/8th inch around all sides. If you don't, you risk cupping when the OSB expands. Also, tongue and groove would be a better choice for floors.
Finally, code requires far more fasteners than 8 per sheet of plywood.
Thanks for your input it’s much appreciated! I agree that a 1/8” gap should be left around the perimeter of the OSB for expansion and contraction. Unless, an OSB like AdvanTech is being used because it has the gap incorporated in its T & G.
T & G laminate floors were used. In this case the concrete slab is the structural floor. The subfloor was installed as per manufacturers recommendations in regards to the amount of screws that were used.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd Not to be argumentative, but building codes (which vary) usually require fasteners every 6"-8". They will govern, not the manufacturer's instructions. It is difficult to know what code is, because this is such an unusual application. Typically subfloors require fastenets 4" OC on seams and 8" OC in the field.
FL FL it’s all good I appreciate the input. I agree with with in regards to code with typical floor sheathing installed on top of floor joists.
In this videos application it’s a sub floor over a structural concrete slab.
Looks like a great idea, should use some rigid insulation as well.
That would be beneficial as well but unfortunately we did not have the appropriate ceiling height to allow for that.
Great tutorial/video but a couple things. In your video you called the subfloor "OSB Plywood" - It's either OSB or plywood, not both. Also, when installing subfloor never slam the tounge and groove tight together. There should be a 1/16 to 1/8th inch gap between joints to allow for expansion of the wood. I'm not sure if you did this in the vid but it looked tight. Thank you.
That is a Freudian slip calling OSB, plywood but thanks for pointing that out.
Further on this method of using osb sheets and butting them together (tightly) as shown in the video.... In theory I can see where Pete's logic makes sense; as wood is a natural material prone to expansion/contracting. Especially if they're not tongue and groove sheets too, I could foresee butt ends rubbing and squeaking over time. But at the same time, a very popular subfloor product like dricore panels are installed together with tongue and grove with no consideration of expansion... So what is the correct school of thought here?
Great and informative video. I am going to be using this system on a pole building slab floor. New construction, cold climate here in Michigan. I have plenty of height and my entry doors are 3.5 inches above cement grade, so no clearance issues. I would like to use 1 inch ridgid foam board for added R value. My concern is could the TapCon screws compress the foam board at that thickness, making my OSB appear wavy? Should I step down to 1/2 inch foam board to be safe?
Thanks and keep up the great video work. People like you make TH-cam great!
Thanks for your kind comments. I would recommend you give the Cosella Dorken tech support a call with that question: 1 (888) 433-5824. They are the manufacturer and will be able to steer you in the right direction.
I also want to add some insulation foam board to my cement floor to add R-value and help make the floor feel 'warmer' What did you end up using thickness wise and how did it workout, would you do anything differently?
In the end, I decided to use no foam board at all. I rolled out DMX 1 step in the entire building, except for a 1 car garage area that I left bare. About 1000 SQ ft of area with DMX. I framed interior walls directly on the DMX, using tapcons to secure to the floor. (1 tapcon about every 2 feet along the framing) Most of the DMX had LifeProof vinyl plank flooring installed directly over it. It's worked great and the floor is quite comfortable, even now with outdoor temps in the teens. The exterior walls have 3 inch thick foam in addition to fiberglass loose fill blown in using roll out mesh to hold in place before drywall. ( I ran the lower 4 feet of drywall first on exterior walls and stapled mesh to the studs in the upper parts, cutting a slit where needed to insert the hose for fill. I also put 24 inches of fiberglass blown in the ceiling.
Great video very informative, I learned something knew today. Thank you for making this.
No problem Justin! I love hearing comments like this. Make sure to subscribe to my channel to stay connected.
GOOD JOB BRO..
Thanks!
Thank you for posting this great video. You have saved me $$. Your presentation style is excellent. I’m wondering if you have any videos pertaining to installing ceiling in a basement. I want to use drop but I’m concerned about losing precious headroom. I don’t want to go drywall, I want full access to plumbing, electric, etc
Russ DeVita thanks for the feedback I really appreciate it! Sorry I don’t have any videos on installing dropped ceilings.
Fantastic job well done I don't know if you are a professional or not but I know professionals that would not do a job that well done but I always like to do a nice base molding all the way around and a lot of times I will make my own base molding
Thanks!
I do construction and I'm at the point where me and a partner are able to buy and flip houses and everybody wants a basement that's basically finished or done to the point where they can do a few things and make a rental apartment so when it comes to doing the floor I use tar paper for roofing from my vapor barrier because are basement it's extremely very extremely important to have that for stay dry because you will have mold growing under your floor plus taping it off is just important as that vapor barrier but I will put down on top of that ceramic flooring it looks like wood very adorable does not scratch and they just snap together so easily you could use a razor knife to cut the flooring I just use my chop box just because it's faster but people if I'm going over a wooden floor then I'll just use a staple gun but this was a good video
Thanks for sharing.
I have had this system in my basement for 16 years now, great as far as warmth, no hollow sound anywhere, they did not use landscape cloth underneath, I would suggest against that personally. At some point, you will get water coming in, anywhere water has gotten to the basement floor the worst spots are at the fasteners, they act as a wick for water and also you are puncturing the protective membrane. It's like going for a canoe ride and poking holes in your canoe. Overall a good cost-effective solution but can you not leave the OSB without the fasteners? Still looking for a better solution!
Unfortunately, the OSB has to be fastened the concrete floor. Otherwise there would be to much movement and the finished flooring surface would reflect that movement.
Thanks been researching doing the same thing. Great video
No problem. Thanks for watching 👍🏽
Your videos seem to always be worth while watching , including this one I
have a question pertaing to this type of installation . I have a sun room that may have been an ( add on with a concrete floor , there is no basement in this area of the house )at one point those linoleum square were put down and has stayed for decades it's still there cracks and all then a carpet had been over that for too long as well , I ve taken that up and would like to continue the wood flooring that in the rest of the house , I'm hearing I can put hard wood over this concrete ( hopefully ) use ing the pre method you just showed on this clip , and then I hear others saying it's not a good idea .Whats YOUR OPINION on the subject ?
Bruce Beamon if that sun Room is not a condition space and humidity levels are not within the manufacturers specs you may run into problems. Warping and gaps may form between the planks.
You could install a subfloor and then the hardwood if you have concerns with the slab.
You could also install directly on top of the slab using a glue down method. There are specific glues you can use for this application such as Tite Bond 771- Step. It’s an advanced polymer adhesive, moisture and sound control system. It provides moisture control protection which is critical for installations over a concrete slab in basements or slab on grade applications. It’s critical that the concrete is dry to the touch and fully cured to bond properly. It can be used to secure engineered hardwood, solid wood, bamboo and cork flooring.
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks Orlando I appreciate it!
Going to give this a go this weekend. We just pulled up shag carpet to discover concrete. Not a basement, just an office. Anything you'd do differently for a room on a slab?
Nope. Best of luck on your project!
thank you . that's what I'm going to do tomorrow.
Thanks for leaving a comment. You're install should go smoothly tomorrow and good choice on your subfloor materials. To keep updated with my new videos in the future make sure to subscribe to my channel.
Hey!! Thank you so much for. The video!! It’s Clean cut and easy to follow. I just pulled Up carpet, and it’s. Not in the basement so would you recommend doing anything differently? Will I still need the Poly product or could I just put the vapor barrier ? I’m in SC so chances Of flooding are Slim. I’m just wondering if there are any advantages to using it outside of a basement/ flood prone area.
Thanks! My apologies for the late reply. Having a good under-pad is money well spent. If your budget allows for a subfloor on top of the concrete it will be better than not having one.
Awesome job man i really liked how it came out. Hopefully it ll be my next project in my basement
Thanks! Best of luck with your project.
Nice and very well said about Drycore! :D Great job, did my research and this i a way to go as for me.
Also nice access panel on the left side on the floor. Is it for sewage cleanout? I have mine in the middle of the room for some reason on new property and looking the way to make it look good.
Thanks! That access cover is for a back water valve. It prevents a sewage back up if there is ever an issue with the City sewer.
Great video. Very helpful. One question about OSB, should I keep a gap between the OSB for expansion/contraction?
It’s a good idea to leave at least an 1/8” gap between the OSB sheets for expansion and contraction. I forgot to mention that point in the video. Some OSB brands such as AdvanTech have that gap built in to their tongue and groove.
Great vid and thanks for the awesome info. Would the same principles apply if putting in flooring in a garage? (building a home office in the corner of the garage)
+Spartan 419 thanks! Yes, the same principals apply installing this subfloor system on a garage slab.
We have a difficult flooring situation...our basement floor experienced either heaving across the middle of our basment floor near the footers, or, settling around the perimeter of our basement floor. Either way, structural engineer evaluated and gave us the all clear as far as no water issues or foundation wall issues to worry about. However, we have 1/2" cracks that run down the middle of our basement floor. We sealed them, and have never had water issues. Now that we are wanting to finish the basement we realized that our floor is not level and is off by as much as 2.5 inches in some spots--so the floor near the exterior walls sit lower than the middle of our basement floor. We put 33 bags of floor leveler down to fix the worst parts, but we have a 12X12 section that is still unlevel...and so we have what feels like a hill or a peak in the middle of the room. My question for you is would this subfloor work for our floor since it's still quite unlevel? My fear is we would still get quite a bit of "rocking" sensation under the OSB. We looked at Dri Core and we are completely out of spec for using that product. Basically we are working with a floor that isn't flat. So, will this subfloor type work or not?
This is directly from the manufacturers spec sheet:
"The floor should be as level as possible. Remove any bumps or ridges. In areas with
depressions greater than ¼”, self-leveling compound should be used."
Unfortunately you will have to do some more prep work most likely before you can install your subfloor.
Very clear and well structured tutorial! I do have a question for you. I have an enclosed patio addition that has tile on concrete. The patio floor level is lower than the house floor and would like to raise it to the same level. Would you recommend installing this subfloor directly on tile?
Septimiu Sarca thanks! It's always a best practice to remove the old material then install your new flooring. It's going to be tough to properly secure your subfloor with tile underneath. Usually your sub floor is installed on top of wood joist and fastened with wood screws or installed on top of concrete using concrete screws to fasten it to the concrete slab.
Nice video and good looking room also. Good job.
Thanks!
Great Video! 2 questions I have...
1) I didn’t caulk the tap cons before drilling them in. Is that a problem?
2) I tuck taped my outside edges up to bare block wall. Should I leave those open for air flow underneath? I have never had moisture problems and I was thinking the DMX AirGap would keep any moisture issues at bay. Worried I may be creating a bigger problem by not having any airflow available.
1)no
2)no
You’re good to go 👍🏽