MAKE: How to make a thumb nut on the lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video, I show you how to make a thumb nut for the Taig lathe. This part has three operations - two lathe ops, and one op at the mill. At the end of the video, I install a 10-32 helical insert into the threads. This is the last part that is needed to finish up the Z axis stop!
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Beautiful work. The finished product looks perfect on that nice little Taig.
nice! good to see more fellow Taig users making vids. I need to fire up the camera again. Subscribed!
Nice technique. I don't have a knurling too, so this will solve a lot of problems
Very good job mate..you do very perfectly opponent..❤🤝
Brilliant!
Hi Joaquín - Thanks for watching!
I love that video. Thank you !! Where did you get the X axis depth stop ? Any plan or how-to video ??
Hi Gerald - I plan to make a video showing how to make the X axis depth stop as well. I am still deciding how to release drawings, weather that would be showing how to draw them in Fusion 360 or just releasing the drawings. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I'm impressed with all of your work on your vids! One question. Why the helical insert? Cheers!
Hi Ron - I used a helical insert because the rod holder part is steel, and the thumb nut is aluminum. As I make adjustments on the on the Z depth stop on the lathe, I would be frequently tightening and loosening the thumb nut. I didn't want to strip out the threads in the aluminum thumb nut over time. I appreciate the question, and thanks for watching!
@@benchtopmachining ,
Please address the dealer/distributor of this mini lathe, in *Indonesia* .
Great work! Did you just "eye up" the finger divot machining, or was there a little more precision involved?
In the video, I used the indicator to find X and Y zero or the center of the part. The center is my X and Y zero of my coordinate system. When I draw my print for the part, I dimension the X and Y dimensions from the center of the part to the center of the tool location at each of the cut outs.
On the mill, each axis handle has marks to indicate .001 of movement. So, one turn of the hand wheel is .050 of travel and for perspective five turns of the hand wheel will move the axis 1/4 inch or .250. When I find X and Y zero on the part, I can zero the dials at the hand wheel as well. This makes it easy - your spindle or tool is at X0 and Y0 over your part and your hand wheels are zeroed out. From this point it is just counting the hand wheel revolutions to move to each new location in the X and Y axis.
Nice work we catch up with ya later stay safe and God bless
It was good talking to you. We'll catch up later!
What does the lower pulley do on the lathe?
Driving the auto feed for z-axis?
Hi Harlequin43 - The lower pulley is for the powerfeed that drives the carriage. It runs off of the main pulley on the headstock with, of all things, a rubber band. When you hold the handwheel on the carriage, it will power the carriage towards the chuck on the Z axis. This allows for a more uniform finish. When you are not holding the handwheel on the carriage, it will just spin, but very slowly. You can still move the carriage by just turning it by hand if you were to back it out of the way. Thanks for watching!
Hello Sir,
Where did you learn your skills as a machinist?
Are you self-taught (like I'm trying to be)?
Thanks for your videos and
please keep making them.
I appreciate the comments! I am no expert. I make lots of mistakes, and still make scrap parts. Practice, practice, practice! It is a satisfying feeling when you have made a part... even with some errors, you can only get better!
Thanks for watching!
Pretty cool without a rotary table.
Hi Bounce - I used the X and Y coordinate dimensions from my print. Thanks for watching!
Where do you get your tool bits from and what type are they?
Thanks for watching! The index lathe tools are from amazon - Anytime tools five piece 1/4 indexable mini lathe tools. They fit the Taig tool holder with no modifications. The insert is a TCMT 1.8 1.5 1
Inscribed circle - 7/32
Thickness - .094
Radius - 1/64
Seems we gain and lose with a Taig vs an eBay chinese one. I see no drip plate, or back board, no gears, less HP, etc... on the Taig. What is the advantage of a Taig over one of those Chinese eBay metal mini lathes?
Thanks for watching!
Before you read below, know that I am NOT associated with Taig in any way. Just a satisfied user of their tools.
That's a tough question. The offshore machines offer a lot of details on paper, but in my perspective leave a lot of details lacking. I do have a harbor freight X2 mini mill, and the Taig manual mill, and the difference in quality is very noticeable between the machines. Out of the box, the Taig machines are tight and square and setup is easy. The X2 mill needs a bit of adjustment to get it Square, the quality just seems lacking, and overall use is sloppy. There will always be "mods" to make it better. In fact, I actually converted my X2 mill to a belt drive.
Sure, the Taig lathe does not have the drip plate, back board, but I really don't think that was necessary for this machine - nice features if they had them though. What matters to me is that the machine will hold size consistently, and the accuracy of the machine which it does well. It is very flexible in how you use it, and has many accessory's available for it. You can really build it how you want it. Don't let the 1/4 HP motor fool you, it is more than sufficient for this lathe...
My perspective on the small offshore machines is they offer more than they are capable of. The gears are typically plastic on lower end machines, the machines do not have enough torque to run the tools that they can accept (on the mill). As far as gears vs. the belt, you still need to stop the machine to change your speed, so to me I think that is a wash. Typically, I run the belt on the Taig in one position. For smaller parts, I run it faster and larger parts I run it slower. It takes seconds to change the belt on the Taig.
Now, some of the higher end import machines have better quality and components but it also comes at a higher price point. So, its all a balance of how much you want to spend vs. the quality of machine vs. the size of parts you anticipate running. I have found the Taig stuff to be sufficient if you work within the size it was designed for, at a decent value. Taig machines are also made in the US which I prefer.
At the end of the day, buy whatever makes you happy. As long as you are making chips and enjoying it, that's all that matters!
How to make a thumb nut on the lathe: Use a mill
Hi Joel - Many ways to make parts! I don't have a knurling tool but that could always be an option! Thanks for watching!
Are you done making videos?
Not at all! I am looking to get more videos out soon! Thanks for watching!
Fantastic! I await in a heightened state of perturbation. I am considering joining you but from a novices aspect of exploration. Definitely won’t be worthy of your content. Thank you! Oop’. The original poster of the query … one and the same. Business/personal accounts.
Have to say i am a little disappointed. I really like the work you did, and the production quality of the video is very good to. But I came to see how you make the thumb nut on the lathe, not the lathe and mill. I wanted to see how you would make the cutout on the side of the thumb nut on the lathe. Offset in a 4 jaw or dividing head maybe?
We would use Taigs milling attachment (1220), and hold the tool in the spindle. Thanks for watching!
I saw this and was hopeful that I could learn how to make this part on a lathe, since it’s in the title. Then you take it to the mill and do the part I was hoping to be able to do on the lathe. Disappointing.
Hi Deanna - To have the cutouts on the thumb nut like I have shown, you will need to put it on the mill. However, the form fit and function of the nut itself does not need the cutouts. Knurling the OD of the part is an option, though I do not have one. Another option is to scribe lines with an indexing head, I don't have one of those either. You could leave it without the cutouts and that would be perfectly fine!
The idea of the video is to show the operations involved in turning this nut. With this part, I cut the material long for chuck stock on the first side. The first side is facing, turning both diameters, drilling, and tapping. And,the second side is simply facing the chuck stock off, and facing the part to length.
By turning both diameters at the same time, or in one operation or one chucking means that both diameters run true to each other - that is has no runout. This also allows us to not need to turn our jaws to get our part concentric between the two diameters.
A Taig mill will really open up the flexibility between the lathe and mill! And, I apologize if that you were disappointed.
@@benchtopmachining I understand. I was just excited when I saw the cutouts and it implied those could be done on the lathe. I really want to be able to do those. But I don’t have a mill. Truth is, I also don’t have a lathe yet (just ordered one). Do you think it would be possible to do the cutouts with a milling attachment on a Taig lathe? I realize that indexing it for the cutouts would need to be done manually, with a lot of luck/patience.
@@deannaatkinson3004 You could absolutely use the milling attachment (PN: 1220) from Taig. I would also recommend the ER16 adapter for the 3/4-16 threads (PN: 1045ER) with the ER collet size of the end mill diameter you are going to use to mill the cutouts. That is, if you ordered the standard head stock lathe from Taig. If you ordered the ER headstock lathe, all you would need is the collet to hold your end mill.
Then, the process is just the same as what I did in the video.
@@benchtopmachining I did order the ER headstock, along with the collet set. And the milling attachment.
On a side note: do you know if a compound bed for the Taig? I haven’t seen one from Taig.
@@deannaatkinson3004 The compound slide would be part number 1200 from Taig - called the "top slide mounts". Its a little clumsy to mount but it works.
So, to iterate what the process would look like on the lathe -
1ST OP - saw - saw aluminum bar plus .200 chuck stock - meaning: (finish part length)+(.06 stock for facing first side)+(.20 for chuck stock) = saw length
2ND OP - lathe - chuck on .19 or less - turn first side - face - turn both diameters - spot - drill - tap - chamfer edges
3RD OP - lathe - turn second side - face to length - chamfer
4TH OP - remove chuck from head stock with part still chucked (do not remove part from chuck) - use milling attachment (1220) and (1221) chuck adapter (mount chuck adapter on the milling attachment and mount assembly to carriage) - find center of part with indicator - mill cutouts (KEEP IN MIND THE TRAVEL OF THE CROSS SLIDE AND MILLING ATTACHMENT TO BE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH TRAVEL TO MAKE THE CUTS)
5TH OP - deburr sharp edges and enjoy!
Take your time, and don't worry about making a scrap part. I have made a lot of scrap parts! Always wear safety glasses and never pull chips from the tool or part when it is running! Always stop the machine first remove the belt or unplug the machine!