Hey Dony. That is a super common problem on those engines. Those are pretty good little mowers though. See a lot of them here near Detroit. Bought one for my nephew a few years ago for $200. Another common problem is the steering gears wearing out. The parts are cheap and easy to get. Those step-through operator stations sure are nice as we get older. Thanks for posting.
this guy knows quite a bit ..i do it just as a hobby but i aslo do alright . i thought fo taking a course on small engines but nobody teaches it around here anymore ..so i get all my info on youtube..he has alot fo helpful videos
I had a problem with my Yard Man tractor not starting, at least not starting reliably. The cause was quite different from this. This is much more involved and an actual mechanical issue. I replaced the starter, battery, solenoid, neutral safety switch, cables, even the ignition switch and it still would refuse to turn over from time to time. I was just about to give up on it when I noticed there is a 20 amp fuse in the circuit. I looked at the fuse and it was fine. However, the fuse holder was badly corroded, probably from years sitting in the winter in a damp shed. The fuse would only make intermittent contact and that was the root cause of all the problems. I replaced the fuse holder, with a different type actually but still using a 20 amp fuse (a smaller fuse just popped right away I found) and now it's been reliable for the past couple years. Lesson learned, check every part in an electrical circuit before you condemn a machine, and look for something with an actual problem before you replace it. My 20 some year old, 13 HP Yard Man is a very reliable machine again.
I'm just your average power equipment owner who knows enough to keep fresh oil in the motor as well as clean oil filter and clean properly gapped spark plug. I would never think that my problem was due to a loose rocker arm bolt. Who buys an engine with that kind of an expectation? Very interesting and informative video. DB 73 is a careful, thorough nechanic.
My sons tractor had the same starting problem. It would start by jumping it, so we changed the battery, but still no luck. It turned out the ground cable was rusty. When we jumped it, the negative clamp was to the frame, so that skipped the rusty negative connection. Problem solved. The old battery was bad too.
Excellent info..after replacing points..condenser..coil. plug.. battery and changed head gasket i adjusted the valves to spec. and this old 74 cub 129.. fires up like it was brand new.
I have an LT3000 if this vintage and had to replace the head gasket and the cover gasket. I had a heck of a time adjusting the valves by the B&S instructions to watch for free bump. Then I find a video detailing the procedure as you did and I h dad hits luck. Still running well 4 years later. Thanks for the course and concise repair video.
So i had a 7.25 briggs engine push mower have a rocker loosen up on me and i fixed the gap and have been using it. Push rods were okay. Makes me think i need to take it apart and make sure that the stud isn’t what loosened up originally. Nice video!
Great video! This has me thinking I may have missed a slightly bent pushrod. My valves were way out of adjustment so I set them both but I never checked the pushrods. The engine seems to have a lot of noisy valve clatter that comes and goes plus it never starts right up when it’s cold. Gonna check those, thank you sir!
Something you can also do first before attacking the valves, take the air filter off put your hand over the intake and see if it cranks over and maybe starts. That also works, when your compression release on your cam has failed. Isn't 5 to 7 Recommended??
I know about starters. I had to put one in my 2016 Honda CRV. Don’t even ask how much it cost! It had a shorted winding and was pulling down the battery each time the car was cranked. It would sometimes crank and on others you had to fidget around with the break pedal and gear shift lever to get it going. It took the Service Manager at my Honda dealer a full five minutes to crank it up. It was fixed and I have had no problem with it, since.
My V-twain Kawasaki is due for valve adjustment according to the manual. I bought the service manual to help me decide if I was going to try it at home. I have not read the manual yet.
Had the same problem on a 917.272432 (20hp)- Craftsman Starter could not turn engine, new battery Thought the float stuck and filled the motor,hydraulic lock. This was after a loud backfire- what the hell? Took out plug- no fuel soak Did the diagnostic to test for ACR failure,and it did. Replaced the cam with OEM, now- cranks good but still no start. Why? The fuel cut off solenoid had failed,which apparently caused the backfire and the blown release pawl. Cam- $109.00 Solenoid $94.00 Dealer (Not Amazon chineseum junk) Quoted $600 to fix with $100 flatbed service (mower 12 years old) Done with Briggs , go with Kawasaki or Kohler $297.00 labor? Back yard at the Dealer has over 50 machines sitting
A common issue on those engines. I will be picking up a Craftsman 25 HP later. First turbo cooled engine I've seen in years. Evidently someone tried to replace the belts, ran into problems and left it. It will need a full service as well.
Fellow dropped off a unit like that last week at our charity dumpster. Ssidengine ran but starter no good. Exactly same. Starter good, valves way off. Never thought to check pushrods
I knew it was a valve lash issue before the video even started. My grandparents had this exact make/model lawn tractor and I had to adjust the valves way more often than anyone should have. Otherwise, it was a pretty solid machine and lasted a long time.
Had a simmilar machine, 15.5 needed a head gasket, smoked BAD till it had about 0 oil. Went to mow for them, topped up the oil, smoked, they never noticed it smoked so. Clearly it burnt all the oil it could and just ran on about nothing. took about an hour and change to fix it (in an old barn) and runs like a dream. No smoke no burning oil. SUPER lucky it didn't burn up the engine.
@@baileyhatfield4273 isn't that quite the story which makes no kind of sense but makes all the sense in the world to some so ty very much for clarifying about the BAD oil and O oil and the mower Smoking and how it took a hr and change and you repaired it (in a old barn) thanks for letting us all know what you do how you do it how much and where you do it. Way to go go speed racer! Nice job fixing grandma's mpwer smoke it up 💨
its a rare thing to find one of these wher ei live as i live in the city so people dont just throw these out on the curb but last year soemoen did...and if i knew then what i know now id probably have gotten it started..i didnt know anything about teh electrical and it turns out thats probabyl wha tit was ; a short along the lines now i have the tools to check the current and just need one to check the switches ..teh engine was said to be ceased but its wasnt ..i eneded up selling ti for 100 bucks and the guy got it started...it was neat to try to work on but seeing it and coming across it i learned i still ahve things to learn about small engines..in this case more about electrical that the engine itself.. id love to find another one or find one cheap just to tinker with...free is much better as theres really no loss if things go sour but usually i get things going
Super interesting and step by step repair procedure is very clear. Thanks! Regrading the push rod, could it be possible to keep old one making it flat again or replacement is mandatory?
If you were working on your own machine you could hammer it straight and hope it keeps working, but if you're working on someone else's it's not worth the comeback or possible collateral damage.
tick, tick, tick great video and I highly doubt that the ticking is related to your repair unless maybe the compression release is starting to fail or a damaged cam lobe. Honestly sounds more like a rod that's been run hard and put away wet at least via this videos sound which may differ from being there in real life. Not ready to blow yet but wouldn't want to bet on it making it through the summer if heavily used. If DIY and had lots of part avaliable for free might pay to pull her down now and open her up....this has to be one the most common engines Briggs ever made.
Q. Is the steel exhaust pushrod the same length as the alloy intake pushrod and what is the advantage of the alloy one ? Re. the decompression device on the camshaft , something I did recently to check was tape a bamboo skewer from the kitchen to the intake rocker and then turn the engine over by hand , it can be hard to see that little movement on the rocker when the decompresser operates but when the rocker has a point of reference a lot further out , it's easier to see ( or confirm that it's not working if that's the case ) Make sense ?
Good video! I would never have thought that the fix was in the valves. I was wondering about the knock. How long had it knocked and was it worth fixing?
Great job. Easy to check this first. Would you use a steel rod in place of an aluminum? I’ve had to take nut off, heat , then oil the locking screw. Take care. Kn
Thank you for the video. It reduces what many folks think would be a major, difficult repair to a homeowner level! Question for you: Would you consider doing a video oh easing the hard steering on these machines? Would roller bearings on the kingpins help? Thanks for your time and consideration!
@@TheOtherBill his videos are always super helpful. He's a busy guy; maybe he'll get a moment or two to get around to it or tell us it's an idea that won't work.
Hey Dony, you are a genius. Your videos are excellent. I kill two birds by watching them. They are really informative and I improve my listening skils. Greeting from Slovakia.
So I’m looking to adjust my valves on my D130 for the first time. Never did it before. I saw some videos that say it must be at top dead center by having both valves loose? I see you didn’t do that. Which way is correct? How do I know if I am at TDC?
That's a bit tight for those valves. The manual specifies .003-.005 for the intake and .005-.007 for the exhaust. .003 is okay for the intake but too tight on the exhaust can result in a burnt valve.
That sure sounded like rod knock. I'm guessing that the bent rod could have happened when the valve cap finally dropped out while running under load & mowing... that could have spelled disaster. Hard to say how long that engine will last now. It would be interesting to get an update if you hear back from the customer.
Thanks for your videos. I have a question for you I have a Briggs & Stratton 18 HP twin model 422707 type 1521 01 code 9302175A I'm having issues that it won't start it looks like there's fuel in the oil. If you already have had a video on this particular engine and issue appreciate it if you could let me know which one it is so I could try to see if I can get it to run. Thanks for all your help Michael
My grandfather partially seized that engine in my uncles John Deere lawnmower that he gave him which caused the starter motor to burn out, I had previously adjusted the valves in it but it overheated perhaps due to a lack of servicing,the local mower Shop said that's what happened. I have also replaced the cylinder head on one of my sisters horse friends Intek powered ride on lawnmowers because it dropped an exhaust valve which dropped into the cylinder. The alloy head was that hot that the valve stem pierced through the cylinder head because the engine drunk oil due to a blown cylinder head gasket. She bought one from the mower shop who sold it to her for $250 AUD !
I didn’t get it. You glued the inner screw with lock tide, but you need it to adjust the rocker arm. I paused the video and zoomet in and it looked like its one part??? Did I miss something? Please answer. Love your videos
HI Donyboy, I have the same machine Craftsman LT1000 20 years old. The transmission will not allow shiftinf when running. It will shift freely when engine is off. It will move in the gear we are in but just can't shift it when running. Any suggestions? Thanks.
How do I submit a question to you? I've a Ariens 42" deck riding mower and when disengaging blades, it takes awhile to kickin and stop. I think it might be the idler spring? It engages fine, but when disengaging...it still has blades spin. Curious...
The symptom, as I understood it, was that the starter did not have enough strength to overcome the compression. How would gas in the oil have caused this symptom?
🔻WATCH NEXT🔻
How to replace the head gasket on the same engine as in video here;
➡th-cam.com/video/T1anxdNWf5Y/w-d-xo.html
Got a free generator because of this problem ... all the best from Arkansas!
Great reminder for those of us who only do this stuff occasionally. Thank you.
Hey Dony. That is a super common problem on those engines. Those are pretty good little mowers though. See a lot of them here near Detroit. Bought one for my nephew a few years ago for $200. Another common problem is the steering gears wearing out. The parts are cheap and easy to get. Those step-through operator stations sure are nice as we get older. Thanks for posting.
this guy knows quite a bit ..i do it just as a hobby but i aslo do alright . i thought fo taking a course on small engines but nobody teaches it around here anymore ..so i get all my info on youtube..he has alot fo helpful videos
Donyboy is a Canadian national treasure!
Thank you sir!
Thanks for the tutorial. I am very picky on how the engine sounds. I was right when I read "it has a small knock".
Yes indeed!
Worthwhile putting Loctite on both the rocker arm bolts saves a problem further down the track.
I had a problem with my Yard Man tractor not starting, at least not starting reliably. The cause was quite different from this. This is much more involved and an actual mechanical issue. I replaced the starter, battery, solenoid, neutral safety switch, cables, even the ignition switch and it still would refuse to turn over from time to time. I was just about to give up on it when I noticed there is a 20 amp fuse in the circuit. I looked at the fuse and it was fine. However, the fuse holder was badly corroded, probably from years sitting in the winter in a damp shed. The fuse would only make intermittent contact and that was the root cause of all the problems. I replaced the fuse holder, with a different type actually but still using a 20 amp fuse (a smaller fuse just popped right away I found) and now it's been reliable for the past couple years. Lesson learned, check every part in an electrical circuit before you condemn a machine, and look for something with an actual problem before you replace it. My 20 some year old, 13 HP Yard Man is a very reliable machine again.
Super video with spot-on information. Good display of business ethics. Sweet little engine when treated right.
Excellent information sir. Thanks for your time,and decent Laguage. Shows your a person of quality.
Textbook. Nicely done Dony. Thanks.
Another great vid from Dony Boy 7+3= 10 out of 10👍
Dony you are awesome and I for one am thankful that you teach us all that you know 🙏
Great video .Nice repair .Customer must have been pretty happy to get the old ride back .👍
I'm just your average power equipment owner who knows enough to keep fresh oil in the motor as well as clean oil filter and clean properly gapped spark plug. I would never think that my problem was due to a loose rocker arm bolt. Who buys an engine with that kind of an expectation? Very interesting and informative video. DB 73 is a careful, thorough nechanic.
My sons tractor had the same starting problem. It would start by jumping it, so we changed the battery, but still no luck. It turned out the ground cable was rusty. When we jumped it, the negative clamp was to the frame, so that skipped the rusty negative connection. Problem solved. The old battery was bad too.
It’s AllWAYS the ground terminal at battery or other end is rusty
I'd bought a used 2012 Ariens rider, same no start, but mine turned out to be a leaking carb had filled the crankcase and hydro lock it...👍
In many cases, I found the decompression release lever to be broken , and sitting in the crankcase, or even worn out and not bumping open the valve
And unlike Honda, B&S won't be fixing it under warranty.
Excellent info..after replacing points..condenser..coil. plug.. battery and changed head gasket i adjusted the valves to spec. and this old 74 cub 129.. fires up like it was brand new.
I have an LT3000 if this vintage and had to replace the head gasket and the cover gasket. I had a heck of a time adjusting the valves by the B&S instructions to watch for free bump. Then I find a video detailing the procedure as you did and I h dad hits luck. Still running well 4 years later. Thanks for the course and concise repair video.
Nice shortcut, thought I had to put piston at TDC, intake valve to .004", and exhaust valve to
006", learn something new everyday, TY.
So i had a 7.25 briggs engine push mower have a rocker loosen up on me and i fixed the gap and have been using it. Push rods were okay. Makes me think i need to take it apart and make sure that the stud isn’t what loosened up originally. Nice video!
Good video very helpful thanks for sharing your advice take care
Thanks Dony for the masterclass repair process and video.
Great video! This has me thinking I may have missed a slightly bent pushrod. My valves were way out of adjustment so I set them both but I never checked the pushrods. The engine seems to have a lot of noisy valve clatter that comes and goes plus it never starts right up when it’s cold. Gonna check those, thank you sir!
I watched your other video on the head gasket-it helped me a lot when I had to do it !
Something you can also do first before attacking the valves, take the air filter off put your hand over the intake and see if it cranks over and maybe starts.
That also works, when your compression release on your cam has failed.
Isn't 5 to 7 Recommended??
Siempre me impresiona con tu profesionalismo .
Gracias por compartir tus Conocimientos Nunca Cambies …
Cam shaft with a bad decompression arm. My first thought.
Great video as always Don.
Thanks from Brantford Ontario. I have learned so much from your detailed videos.
Cheers.
Good job brother 👍
I knew as soon as you turned the key it was a valve issue. One again thank you for sharing. Your awesome
It can sometimes be a broken de-compressor on the camshaft.
I know about starters. I had to put one in my 2016 Honda CRV. Don’t even ask how much it cost! It had a shorted winding and was pulling down the battery each time the car was cranked. It would sometimes crank and on others you had to fidget around with the break pedal and gear shift lever to get it going. It took the Service Manager at my Honda dealer a full five minutes to crank it up. It was fixed and I have had no problem with it, since.
Very good information, another feather in my cap to keep when a mystery issue pops up! TY Dony
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
My V-twain Kawasaki is due for valve adjustment according to the manual. I bought the service manual to help me decide if I was going to try it at home. I have not read the manual yet.
Take your time and do with engine cold.
Great job I’ve done that before that’s for sure👍
Very nice. Thats what years of hands on experience will teach. I would have gone straight to pulling the starter. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thank you I like the way you esplendor
Had the same problem on a 917.272432 (20hp)- Craftsman
Starter could not turn engine, new battery
Thought the float stuck and filled the motor,hydraulic lock.
This was after a loud backfire- what the hell?
Took out plug- no fuel soak
Did the diagnostic to test for ACR failure,and it did.
Replaced the cam with OEM, now- cranks good but still no start.
Why? The fuel cut off solenoid had failed,which apparently caused the backfire
and the blown release pawl.
Cam- $109.00 Solenoid $94.00 Dealer (Not Amazon chineseum junk)
Quoted $600 to fix with $100 flatbed service (mower 12 years old)
Done with Briggs , go with Kawasaki or Kohler
$297.00 labor?
Back yard at the Dealer has over 50 machines sitting
A common issue on those engines. I will be picking up a Craftsman 25 HP later. First turbo cooled engine I've seen in years. Evidently someone tried to replace the belts, ran into problems and left it. It will need a full service as well.
Fellow dropped off a unit like that last week at our charity dumpster. Ssidengine ran but starter no good. Exactly same. Starter good, valves way off. Never thought to check pushrods
Thanks
Nice video .. I wish mine was that easy I've got a Early 90s. Briggs Twin Cylinder, so I don't know where my lifters are.
I knew it was a valve lash issue before the video even started. My grandparents had this exact make/model lawn tractor and I had to adjust the valves way more often than anyone should have.
Otherwise, it was a pretty solid machine and lasted a long time.
Had a simmilar machine, 15.5 needed a head gasket, smoked BAD till it had about 0 oil. Went to mow for them, topped up the oil, smoked, they never noticed it smoked so. Clearly it burnt all the oil it could and just ran on about nothing. took about an hour and change to fix it (in an old barn) and runs like a dream. No smoke no burning oil. SUPER lucky it didn't burn up the engine.
@@baileyhatfield4273 isn't that quite the story which makes no kind of sense but makes all the sense in the world to some so ty very much for clarifying about the BAD oil and O oil and the mower Smoking and how it took a hr and change and you repaired it (in a old barn) thanks for letting us all know what you do how you do it how much and where you do it. Way to go go speed racer! Nice job fixing grandma's mpwer smoke it up 💨
Thanks Donyboy
Learned something new today. Thank you.
Another great video Dony.. I see alot of this on tractors that have never had the proper service for years and years
its a rare thing to find one of these wher ei live as i live in the city so people dont just throw these out on the curb but last year soemoen did...and if i knew then what i know now id probably have gotten it started..i didnt know anything about teh electrical and it turns out thats probabyl wha tit was ; a short along the lines now i have the tools to check the current and just need one to check the switches ..teh engine was said to be ceased but its wasnt ..i eneded up selling ti for 100 bucks and the guy got it started...it was neat to try to work on but seeing it and coming across it i learned i still ahve things to learn about small engines..in this case more about electrical that the engine itself.. id love to find another one or find one cheap just to tinker with...free is much better as theres really no loss if things go sour but usually i get things going
Super interesting and step by step repair procedure is very clear. Thanks!
Regrading the push rod, could it be possible to keep old one making it flat again or replacement is mandatory?
It is risky sending out a machine to a customer with a rod that has been bent back as it could easily fail in no time!
If you were working on your own machine you could hammer it straight and hope it keeps working, but if you're working on someone else's it's not worth the comeback or possible collateral damage.
@@donyboy73 of course I was just considering my private use only.
Great educational video. Nice troubleshooting.
Great video. Thanks.
Another great video. Thank you
tick, tick, tick great video and I highly doubt that the ticking is related to your repair unless maybe the compression release is starting to fail or a damaged cam lobe. Honestly sounds more like a rod that's been run hard and put away wet at least via this videos sound which may differ from being there in real life. Not ready to blow yet but wouldn't want to bet on it making it through the summer if heavily used. If DIY and had lots of part avaliable for free might pay to pull her down now and open her up....this has to be one the most common engines Briggs ever made.
Loved that video! I own that same mower. Feel free to share any other repairs for it! Thanks for your wonderful videos and education.
What a beautiful engine knock it has ....just as my intek from 2017..... it's a damn shame😢
👍👍👍.Thank you
Nice work as always 👍
Q. Is the steel exhaust pushrod the same length as the alloy intake pushrod and what is the advantage of the alloy one ?
Re. the decompression device on the camshaft , something I did recently to check was tape a bamboo skewer from the kitchen to the intake rocker and then turn the engine over by hand , it can be hard to see that little movement on the rocker when the decompresser operates but when the rocker has a point of reference a lot further out , it's easier to see ( or confirm that it's not working if that's the case ) Make sense ?
Thanks for the info
Outstanding! Thank you so much!
Thank you for the video
Love your helpful videos thank you !!
Good day Don Boy interesting video. Good one Thanks
I learned a lot from this one, thanks!
Great works
Good video! I would never have thought that the fix was in the valves. I was wondering about the knock. How long had it knocked and was it worth fixing?
Very interesting video!
Great video Dony as usual, thanks 👍👍
Great job. Easy to check this first. Would you use a steel rod in place of an aluminum? I’ve had to take nut off, heat , then oil the locking screw. Take care. Kn
Thank you for the video. It reduces what many folks think would be a major, difficult repair to a homeowner level! Question for you: Would you consider doing a video oh easing the hard steering on these machines? Would roller bearings on the kingpins help? Thanks for your time and consideration!
👍Same thing I asked for in the last video!
@@TheOtherBill his videos are always super helpful. He's a busy guy; maybe he'll get a moment or two to get around to it or tell us it's an idea that won't work.
Hey Dony, you are a genius. Your videos are excellent. I kill two birds by watching them. They are really informative and I improve my listening skils. Greeting from Slovakia.
Greetings from Canada my friend!
Excellent
What a great video, but hey, I like all your videos.
Good good and good.
Guao thank you
So I’m looking to adjust my valves on my D130 for the first time. Never did it before. I saw some videos that say it must be at top dead center by having both valves loose? I see you didn’t do that. Which way is correct? How do I know if I am at TDC?
They also have problems with valve guides coming loose
Great Job as always Dony! :)
Crazy how that stud loosened. Not surprised the other push rod got bent.
Awesome video
That's a bit tight for those valves. The manual specifies .003-.005 for the intake and .005-.007 for the exhaust. .003 is okay for the intake but too tight on the exhaust can result in a burnt valve.
I set at .003 on older machines as there is wear elsewhere in the engine. It won't be long before the gap is larger.
That sure sounded like rod knock. I'm guessing that the bent rod could have happened when the valve cap finally dropped out while running under load & mowing... that could have spelled disaster. Hard to say how long that engine will last now. It would be interesting to get an update if you hear back from the customer.
Thanks for your videos. I have a question for you I have a Briggs & Stratton 18 HP twin model 422707 type 1521 01 code 9302175A I'm having issues that it won't start it looks like there's fuel in the oil. If you already have had a video on this particular engine and issue appreciate it if you could let me know which one it is so I could try to see if I can get it to run.
Thanks for all your help Michael
Thanks Dony 🏆🤠👍🍩☕
My grandfather partially seized that engine in my uncles John Deere lawnmower that he gave him which caused the starter motor to burn out, I had previously adjusted the valves in it but it overheated perhaps due to a lack of servicing,the local mower Shop said that's what happened.
I have also replaced the cylinder head on one of my sisters horse friends Intek powered ride on lawnmowers because it dropped an exhaust valve which dropped into the cylinder.
The alloy head was that hot that the valve stem pierced through the cylinder head because the engine drunk oil due to a blown cylinder head gasket.
She bought one from the mower shop who sold it to her for $250 AUD !
great video!
How come no repair video's for Clinton , Continental, Waukesha, or Pincor engines !!!!!!!!!! [Bad joke, showing my age] . Good video, as usual !!!!!!
Great informational video. Thanyou Sir.
I didn’t get it. You glued the inner screw with lock tide, but you need it to adjust the rocker arm. I paused the video and zoomet in and it looked like its one part??? Did I miss something? Please answer.
Love your videos
Why did the pushrod bend like that?
HI Donyboy, I have the same machine Craftsman LT1000 20 years old. The transmission will not allow shiftinf when running. It will shift freely when engine is off. It will move in the gear we are in but just can't shift it when running. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Hey don't, if you take the ignition switch apart and the contact disk falls out, how do you realign it for proper operation? Thanks, John.
Don can you straighten a push rod and reuse it? Another great video for us thank you.
I don't do it, but perhaps if you want to chance it for yourself you could.
How do I submit a question to you? I've a Ariens 42" deck riding mower and when disengaging blades, it takes awhile to kickin and stop. I think it might be the idler spring? It engages fine, but when disengaging...it still has blades spin. Curious...
Thanks Dony. Early on in video, you say 4/1000 feeler and later you used 3/1000 feeler. Is one better than the other?
sorry, either is fine, just keep it between 003"-004"
The symptom, as I understood it, was that the starter did not have enough strength to overcome the compression. How would gas in the oil have caused this symptom?
I'm curious what would have made the push rod bend?
So what bent the pushrod?