I got custom buttons w/ logos and a custom machined plate made to mount the buttons on, all from etsy. Man I'm glad u went into a lotta detail so i could catch that. Cheers boss and thx. 1 last thing, I think that the 2 positive pins on the relay (85&87) should be separated with one being a bigger fused cable to the battery and the second being a smaller wire, maybe from the oem switch that comes on with the ACC to turn the relay on. Like a blue remote wire on an amplifier. I'm thinking it may draw current with the car off otherwise?
So I've been deep diving into this and I would think ur 80s g body would have the same setup as my k5 Blazer. It looks like u used a universal power window kit, so that may be why but one or the other of the 85 & 86 should be positive and the other negative. They're interchangeable for the most part, especially on older cars. So if u have 85 as a positive, then the 86 going to ur NO on ur button switch has to be a ground. Also a common wire is just whichever (either pos. or neg.) that is shared. So 3 of ur 5 pins are switch functions and the other 2 are led. Well the NO and NC both share the common, much like the 87 and 87a both share the 30 pin on a relay. When the circuit is resting the NC is attached to the common then when u push the switch button, it changes and the NO is then connected to the common. So your setup works but you have it wired so that the relays and switches are grounding the circuit vs supplying power. There are a lotta ways to use these. I am still confused about yours here tho because u have the same 2 wire motor that I have, some motors have a 3rd wire that grounds it directly. On the 2 wire motors like ours, the opposite of whichever is powered is ground. So for example the resting or (NC)or(87a) of both relays are ground. When a relay is activated it switches from that 87a to the (NO)or(87), which supplies power to the motor while leaving the other relay resting on (87a); grounding the opposite side. The way you have it wired here is the opposite. The resting state, NC or (87a) of yours is constantly feeding positive current to the motor. The switches must be wired in between the relay and the motor I'm guessing or it would short. The metal window and lock buttons that GM used on everything in the 80s directed current. The way to add relays and these buttons is the run ur own 10 or 12ga power wire to each door and use the existing power window button as an Acc wire; unless you're upgrading from crank windows, then you'll have to run that too. Then as follows, 85 & 86 are interchangeable. Take the og switch or Acc wire and use that as the common and pos. led on your new push button switch, then from the NO of the switch to either 85 or 86 of the relay. The NC or resting state of the switch is not used, the NC of the switch is connected to the switch common while resting; so that (NC) wire is hot and needs capped. When you push the button it switches the connection of the common from NC to NO. Anyway, the NO goes to 85 or 86. Whichever one u have left grounds the switch. 87a or NC is ground, 87 or NO of the relay is the new 10 or 12ga wire you ran and 30 goes to the motor. If you have one of the motors that have a 3rd ground wire, you can use a 4 pin SPST relay; although you could still use a 5 pin SPDT and just cut and cap the 87a, leaving that pin open.
Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/2-Door-Window-Roll-Up-Conversion-Power-Electric-Universal-Kit-w-4-Switches-Car-/274535989541?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
I got custom buttons w/ logos and a custom machined plate made to mount the buttons on, all from etsy. Man I'm glad u went into a lotta detail so i could catch that. Cheers boss and thx. 1 last thing, I think that the 2 positive pins on the relay (85&87) should be separated with one being a bigger fused cable to the battery and the second being a smaller wire, maybe from the oem switch that comes on with the ACC to turn the relay on. Like a blue remote wire on an amplifier. I'm thinking it may draw current with the car off otherwise?
So I've been deep diving into this and I would think ur 80s g body would have the same setup as my k5 Blazer. It looks like u used a universal power window kit, so that may be why but one or the other of the 85 & 86 should be positive and the other negative. They're interchangeable for the most part, especially on older cars. So if u have 85 as a positive, then the 86 going to ur NO on ur button switch has to be a ground. Also a common wire is just whichever (either pos. or neg.) that is shared. So 3 of ur 5 pins are switch functions and the other 2 are led. Well the NO and NC both share the common, much like the 87 and 87a both share the 30 pin on a relay. When the circuit is resting the NC is attached to the common then when u push the switch button, it changes and the NO is then connected to the common. So your setup works but you have it wired so that the relays and switches are grounding the circuit vs supplying power. There are a lotta ways to use these. I am still confused about yours here tho because u have the same 2 wire motor that I have, some motors have a 3rd wire that grounds it directly. On the 2 wire motors like ours, the opposite of whichever is powered is ground. So for example the resting or (NC)or(87a) of both relays are ground. When a relay is activated it switches from that 87a to the (NO)or(87), which supplies power to the motor while leaving the other relay resting on (87a); grounding the opposite side. The way you have it wired here is the opposite. The resting state, NC or (87a) of yours is constantly feeding positive current to the motor. The switches must be wired in between the relay and the motor I'm guessing or it would short. The metal window and lock buttons that GM used on everything in the 80s directed current. The way to add relays and these buttons is the run ur own 10 or 12ga power wire to each door and use the existing power window button as an Acc wire; unless you're upgrading from crank windows, then you'll have to run that too. Then as follows, 85 & 86 are interchangeable. Take the og switch or Acc wire and use that as the common and pos. led on your new push button switch, then from the NO of the switch to either 85 or 86 of the relay. The NC or resting state of the switch is not used, the NC of the switch is connected to the switch common while resting; so that (NC) wire is hot and needs capped. When you push the button it switches the connection of the common from NC to NO. Anyway, the NO goes to 85 or 86. Whichever one u have left grounds the switch. 87a or NC is ground, 87 or NO of the relay is the new 10 or 12ga wire you ran and 30 goes to the motor. If you have one of the motors that have a 3rd ground wire, you can use a 4 pin SPST relay; although you could still use a 5 pin SPDT and just cut and cap the 87a, leaving that pin open.
Yo thanks for making this video,this really helped me out
No problem 😎
U had to have patients to learn how to do this great work tho!
Yeah took a minute to figure it out but it's over now💣💥💥💥💥💥💥
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Thanks
Do you use two for each window
@@M33LTicket yea up/down
@@wjdiv1 appreciate it I just finished my relay panel based off yo video 🫡
@M33LTicket bet , I appreciate you build and expand fam💯🫡
Got a link to the kit you ordered?
Look at this on eBay
www.ebay.com/itm/2-Door-Window-Roll-Up-Conversion-Power-Electric-Universal-Kit-w-4-Switches-Car-/274535989541?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Link to identical kit, switches came from Ebay and or Amazon as well
About time ⏲️ 2 mouths later a good video