What a useful video, I was all my life thinking that developing slides would be much more complex but I see that it is not, thanks for this video guys!
developing reversible film or plain color film in the E-6 and C-41 process is simple and straightforward. The only condition ; maintaining temperature , development times and necessarily high quality FD( black and white ) developer chemistry is the basis of success in E-6 and C-41.
I'm going to start developing my own slide film at home and I'm really hoping you end up doing that video on mounting film as slides. I want to do so, not for projection, but more so because it makes them easier to handle and show off semi-safely (and completely safe if mounted within a slide with glass on both sides.) I like the idea of showing them off to my friends on a light table, and one day a projector.
Is there a Linus fan club? I have some rolls of E6 that need processing but there is only one lab in Minnesota that can do it. I’ll be purchasing this to try it at home! Thanks Cinestill for making these kits and videos simple and fun. 👍
This is cool! Never understood the water bath though. I just use the TCS to directly warm up the chems and indeed I adjust for temps. Works like a charm. This makes me wanna shoot Ektachrome which I’ve been wanting to shoot forever but sending it off somewhere is such a drag. Well done Linus. You got me convinced. Will definitely buy this kit.
First developer temp is a lot more critical with E6, so a water bath is a good idea if you can manage it. Of course this mattered more when what you were doing with slides was mounting them and sticking them in a projector… if your developing was off, you were stuck with it, because you were looking at the same piece of film that went through the camera and you couldn't do anything to fix it. Now that most of us are scanning our film, it's possible to correct a bit if your slides are too dark. (Too light and you're still nosed, though… there's no way to get back highlight detail once it's been bleached out of the film…)
The single use D9 1:1 dilution guide for 120 film in a 1000ml tank has a max use of 4 rolls. Such a big difference to the 16 rolls I thought I was going to get. What a bummer.
Unfortunately not all tanks require the same amount of chemistry per roll, especially when processing 120. Jobo tanks allow two rolls of 120 per reel and can be used with rotation method giving you 4x as many rolls with the same chemistry volume vs Paterson. The good thing is that the 1st developer is the only one that cannot be reused (which is why it produces 2L+ of working solution) and it can be purchased on its own for much less than the entire kit, so you could use your current tank with more D9 1st developer and continue to reuse the Color Reversal and Bleaches&Fix but Jobo would be most efficient.
I have a question about mixing up the chemicals. I do not shoot much but want to develop by myself. So I have a JOBO rotation processor. The tank inly need roughly about 300ml of chemicals is it possible that I only mix that much of the first developer an let the powder for the next time in the bag? The same for the orher chemicals. Is it possible to mix only the amount I need and let the rest in rheir original bottles? How long is the storage life of opened but not mixed chemicals for each of the 3 parts?
I was encountering a problem with a CS 6 kit for processing slides. I have mixed first developer and diluted it for processing at 1:3. At a total volume of 240 mL for a rotary process jobo CPE 2 One of the films was a Provia 100F and 2nd one was an expired Porst. Both at ISO 100 After the Color developer, i was opened the tank to see if it's something on the film. At the end of the bleach fix step, on the beginning blank it was remained with a blue base Can you tell me what I was doing wrong? The solution was fresh. Thank you
It simply won't work. Easy as that. They only offer each chemical separately because the amount of film you can develop differs between them, so you can save a bit of money by not having to throw out the whole kit because one chemical is spent. But you always need all of them! (And in the right sequence!)
@@valurautakattila I see. I misunderstood the question. They probably won't be able to answer your question as this is a new product. But I guess it is similar to Tetenal's E-6 kit, which is a proven solution. The colors of older side films had the tendency to fade. The colors of modern slide film are more stable. The weak point of slide film was always the emulsion, not the processing. But it all depends on how you archive your slides. Perhaps we should talk again about this in 50 or 60 years... (haha)
If you already put the water in the DEV at the beginning why did you put water again just before putting it in the tank? (and you didn't do it after for the others)
great tutorial, but what if your Slide film was a 120 roll?, how do you process this?, esp. how to project it to, as most slide 'carriers' are 35 mm single shot frames.
Ok just mixed up our first batch of this developer, but we shoot MF and LF slide sheet film. So the question is, once the developer is mixed and we may be processing say 4 sheets of MF film, we take it that instead of one shot and dispose of the 1:1 mix, we should save for later use in another container? If so is there any need to add developing time on second or third use? BTW 10 shots of MF is equal to one roll of film.
More or less. If you go to Amazon and take a good look at the various models, you won't have much difficulty identifying which makes this item for Cinestill. Either CS or the original maker modify the electrics to focus on the temp range used with photography and to add a feature or two helpful for same. Since a plain jane unit will cost as little as half of the CD unit, you have to decide if the red plastic and extra function(s) are worth the extra money. The idea of using the CS unit to mix raw chemicals for E-6 is just crazy. The video mentions cross-contamination. Also, the chemicals in those solutions are quite unfriendly to the insides of the unit. If you don't want to hand mix the solutions, buy a magnetic mixer off Amazon plus a regular soovee unit. Together they are no more than the CS unit.
I think something went wrong the roll has information but only a few shots are positives what could have happened? My first guess it was a problem with the camera but I processed two rolls from two different cameras anyone has had any problems with it?
I just used this kit and my film came out way too dark. I made sure to keep the chemistry at the required temp, did the recommended inversion cycles, and rinsed between each chemistry. What could I have done wrong? 😢
I had the same issue with my first roll of film. Upon further investigation, I found that you have to overexpose your film by two stops in order to process your slide film with D9.
Hey there! Thanks for your question. We do sell this as a kit, and you can find it on our site here: cinestillfilm.com/collections/laboratory-supplies/products/cs6-creative-slide-3-bath-process-for-color-timing-chrome-reversal-and-e-6-compatible-film We hope this helps!
what does the variation times do in the 2nd developer and the blix? what if I go say... 7 minutes second developer and 8 minutes blix? This is always been a bit of a mystery with me.
Exactly! Otherwise it's a great video. Unfortunately it looks like CineStill is satisfied with only the US market since they use the antiquated measurements. Looks narrow and provincial. I doubt it would be so difficult to overlay the English measurements with the rest-of-the-world metrics in text.
Why not use 240ml of Developer, as the jobo tank say and do rotational movement? This would save a lot. Or does it make a difference in image quality, as we know from some bw developers that don´t like rotation?
Rotation will save you a lot of 1st developer if you are set up to do so. It’s not a problem for Cs6. Inversion method is more universal and easier to start. It wouldn’t affect the Cr6 or Bf6 as those are meant to be recombined and reused.
One thing to keep in mind is that the first developer only lasts 2-6 weeks once mixed, so it's likely that you'll run out of time before you run out of developer no matter how little you use. I did try using the CS chems for rotation development in a Lab-Box and the results seemed fine.
First developers come in concentrate form to be mixed and stored as a 1 Liter “stock solution” but are then diluted 1:1 or further (depending on the working dilution you use for D9) to create 2 Liters or more of “working solution” dilution. Stock solution stores better over time.
@@CineStillFilm Well , I will send my comments . Out of 5 Fuji Provia 100 f films , unfortunately I broke completely 2 films . Disaster . All done with the recommended temeperature and development times . My biggest surprise was that the best films were developed at 1:3 dilution . I think that there is something wrong with your chemistry (formula). I suppose that there is too little hydroquinone .
I know that these companies don't want to address this to avoid liability but what do you do with the one shot developer? Can it go down the drain? If you make 500mL of liquid waste you have to keep around for every 2 rolls I don't see how practical this is so what do you do with it?
We actually do address this, and we have a webpage dedicated to this concern in the main menu of our website. cinestillfilm.com/pages/photo-waste-management The one shot developer is essentially a black and white developer so you treat it the same way you would when processing B&W film. Since we love this analog world that we live in, we do not avoid it in manufacturing or in guidance. In the end, we all have to be responsible for preserving our local environment.
Possibly the Cinestill CS 6 kit is good for developing old Kodak Ektachrome . Most people write that this chemistry is far from the quality of Fuji Hunt Chrome 6 . It even has a funny nickname ''creative chemistry '' . Why someone created a chemistry that does not meet the rigors of the E-6 process ????? How can your chemistry destroy Fuji Chrome Provia /Velvia reversal film ? Why does the slide come out too dark at 105 F and after a development time of as much as 12 minutes in D-9/ T-9 developer . Give the exact amount and chemical composition of D-9/T-9 . Wonders you write that in 2 liters 1:1 you can develop up to 16 rolls . This is complete nonsense and fraud .
Our Cs6 Creative Slide process is designed to give photographers more creative control than conventional E6, giving you options for first developer which determine the color balance and contrast of your slides, and works especially well with the new Kodak Ektachrome. This process has undergone rigorous testing and R&D and meets Kodak E-6 processing standards when processing with the conventional D6 first developer. cinestillfilm.com/blogs/news/no-compromises-cs6-3-bath-process-vs-e-6-6-bath-processing The only difference is 3 baths instead of 6, which is optimized for one-shot/reuse home processing rather than replenishment. Fuji Chrome Provia/Velvia can also be processed in the conventional D6 first developer and match E-6 lab processing. For all E-6 processes you can vary the 1st Dev time between 5 to 7 minutes to produce desired density at a selected temperature (±4°C), which suits your processing conditions and technique. As a starting point use the midpoint of the range, i.e., 6 minutes, with maximum of 8.5 minutes for normal processing. 2 liters of D6 1:1 one-shot working solution can develop up to 16 rolls, since only about 4oz (112ml) is needed in rotary processors like Jobo, but it is dependent on the volume of the tank you are using.
Great video except when you exclusively use US measurements. That means I have to change F to C, etc. Sorry, but it looks very provincial. Maybe overlay the video with metric, for all of the rest of the world who don't live with ancient measurements?
@@CineStillFilm Thanks. I found the instructions with the chemicals and I've written all the instructions on my mirror in my bathroom-darkroom. But it still looks very narrow for a company that sells internationally to not use both measurement scales in all your videos and promotions.
never shot a roll of slide film but still watching it 👍🏽
Get some velvia 100, it's amazing!
What a useful video, I was all my life thinking that developing slides would be much more complex but I see that it is not, thanks for this video guys!
developing reversible film or plain color film in the E-6 and C-41 process is simple and straightforward. The only condition ; maintaining temperature , development times and necessarily high quality FD( black and white ) developer chemistry is the basis of success in E-6 and C-41.
You can develop slide film with any b&w developer, exposing the film to light, and finishing with C-41 chemicals
I'm going to start developing my own slide film at home and I'm really hoping you end up doing that video on mounting film as slides.
I want to do so, not for projection, but more so because it makes them easier to handle and show off semi-safely (and completely safe if mounted within a slide with glass on both sides.)
I like the idea of showing them off to my friends on a light table, and one day a projector.
Good info! Mixed up a kit this evening
@@SteveBrokaw glad we could help! Look forward to seeing the results!
Is there a Linus fan club? I have some rolls of E6 that need processing but there is only one lab in Minnesota that can do it. I’ll be purchasing this to try it at home! Thanks Cinestill for making these kits and videos simple and fun. 👍
I think it's more likely to be in kits Tetenal Colortec E-6 :)
This is cool! Never understood the water bath though. I just use the TCS to directly warm up the chems and indeed I adjust for temps. Works like a charm. This makes me wanna shoot Ektachrome which I’ve been wanting to shoot forever but sending it off somewhere is such a drag. Well done Linus. You got me convinced. Will definitely buy this kit.
First developer temp is a lot more critical with E6, so a water bath is a good idea if you can manage it. Of course this mattered more when what you were doing with slides was mounting them and sticking them in a projector… if your developing was off, you were stuck with it, because you were looking at the same piece of film that went through the camera and you couldn't do anything to fix it. Now that most of us are scanning our film, it's possible to correct a bit if your slides are too dark. (Too light and you're still nosed, though… there's no way to get back highlight detail once it's been bleached out of the film…)
I love slide film so much.
The single use D9 1:1 dilution guide for 120 film in a 1000ml tank has a max use of 4 rolls. Such a big difference to the 16 rolls I thought I was going to get. What a bummer.
Unfortunately not all tanks require the same amount of chemistry per roll, especially when processing 120. Jobo tanks allow two rolls of 120 per reel and can be used with rotation method giving you 4x as many rolls with the same chemistry volume vs Paterson. The good thing is that the 1st developer is the only one that cannot be reused (which is why it produces 2L+ of working solution) and it can be purchased on its own for much less than the entire kit, so you could use your current tank with more D9 1st developer and continue to reuse the Color Reversal and Bleaches&Fix but Jobo would be most efficient.
tried it today (velvia 100) and even if I have images, they came out way darker than they should..
This looks a bit more complicated that cs41 . I think I will this job for a lab lol, but great video.
It is just one more step. And nothing (in photography) beats the joy of taking your freshly developed slide film out of the reel!
I have a question about mixing up the chemicals. I do not shoot much but want to develop by myself. So I have a JOBO rotation processor. The tank inly need roughly about 300ml of chemicals is it possible that I only mix that much of the first developer an let the powder for the next time in the bag? The same for the orher chemicals. Is it possible to mix only the amount I need and let the rest in rheir original bottles? How long is the storage life of opened but not mixed chemicals for each of the 3 parts?
open concentrate only 3 weeks and in Cinestill developers you will develop only 8 rolls of reversible negatives at a dilution of 1;1/1;2/1:3 :)
I was encountering a problem with a CS 6 kit for processing slides.
I have mixed first developer and diluted it for processing at 1:3.
At a total volume of 240 mL for a rotary process jobo CPE 2
One of the films was a Provia 100F and 2nd one was an expired Porst. Both at ISO 100
After the Color developer, i was opened the tank to see if it's something on the film. At the end of the bleach fix step, on the beginning blank it was remained with a blue base
Can you tell me what I was doing wrong?
The solution was fresh. Thank you
Same problem. Were you able to figure them out?
@@5goon_JPG i was resolved this problem by processing the film in the entire batch of 1L solution
@@vaneaauzeac4401 You mean 240ml of stock solution?
Yes
@@vaneaauzeac4401 thank you. What was your time if you recall? That sucke that we can only do them in stock instead of 1:1 or 1:2.
You guys should include the temperature in Celcius as well. It would be easier for the rest of the world.
Or you can convert it by yourself and not be spoon fed for everything
The US is the world.
Use one standard- last time I checked Metric is the standard in chemistry
Changing b/w 250 mL and 8.54 ounces, 20degC and 68degF is ridiculous.
Cinestill is an American company that sells to the American market. Do the conversion, we have to convert metric all the time without whining
of all of the things to complain about, they didn’t even have to do this. I cant ever imagine not using google before being so triggered.
Are there any trade offs with reducing the amount of steps? Would the stability and archivability of slides processed in this be different?
It simply won't work. Easy as that. They only offer each chemical separately because the amount of film you can develop differs between them, so you can save a bit of money by not having to throw out the whole kit because one chemical is spent. But you always need all of them! (And in the right sequence!)
@@buyaport I meant the reduced amount of steps in Cs6 compared to traditional E-6. I was asking how well slides developed in Cs6 last.
@@valurautakattila I see. I misunderstood the question. They probably won't be able to answer your question as this is a new product. But I guess it is similar to Tetenal's E-6 kit, which is a proven solution. The colors of older side films had the tendency to fade. The colors of modern slide film are more stable. The weak point of slide film was always the emulsion, not the processing. But it all depends on how you archive your slides. Perhaps we should talk again about this in 50 or 60 years... (haha)
Hello, I will be mixing the chemistry to make a full 1 litre for super 8mm film processing. Will the developing times be the same? Thanks.
Yes it will
If you already put the water in the DEV at the beginning why did you put water again just before putting it in the tank? (and you didn't do it after for the others)
great tutorial, but what if your Slide film was a 120 roll?, how do you process this?, esp. how to project it to, as most slide 'carriers' are 35 mm single shot frames.
Literally the same way the chemical process doesn't change
Ok just mixed up our first batch of this developer, but we shoot MF and LF slide sheet film. So the question is, once the developer is mixed and we may be processing say 4 sheets of MF film, we take it that instead of one shot and dispose of the 1:1 mix, we should save for later use in another container? If so is there any need to add developing time on second or third use?
BTW 10 shots of MF is equal to one roll of film.
Hey there, we would love to discuss this question in more detail. Please feel free to email us at support@cinestillfilm.com
Is the tcs just a rebranded souvee cooker?
yep exactly sous vide
It is similar, but not exactly… help.cinestillfilm.com/hc/en-us/articles/360029004292-Advantages-of-the-TCS-1000-over-kitchen-appliances
@@CineStillFilm please do a tear down, so we can see for reals.
More or less. If you go to Amazon and take a good look at the various models, you won't have much difficulty identifying which makes this item for Cinestill. Either CS or the original maker modify the electrics to focus on the temp range used with photography and to add a feature or two helpful for same. Since a plain jane unit will cost as little as half of the CD unit, you have to decide if the red plastic and extra function(s) are worth the extra money. The idea of using the CS unit to mix raw chemicals for E-6 is just crazy. The video mentions cross-contamination. Also, the chemicals in those solutions are quite unfriendly to the insides of the unit. If you don't want to hand mix the solutions, buy a magnetic mixer off Amazon plus a regular soovee unit. Together they are no more than the CS unit.
So can you put multiple rolls of slide film in one tank of D9 solution? Or is it per roll?
Yes, you can put multiple rolls of slide film in one tank of D9!
I think something went wrong the roll has information but only a few shots are positives what could have happened? My first guess it was a problem with the camera but I processed two rolls from two different cameras anyone has had any problems with it?
Can I develop Fomapan in Cinestill DF96? I ordered it to do so.
Yes you can! Df96 Developing chart here: cinestillfilm.com/products/df96-developer-fix-b-w-monobath-single-step-solution-for-processing-at-home?variant=7367677247522
How does adding more time to cr6 affect the process?
I just used this kit and my film came out way too dark. I made sure to keep the chemistry at the required temp, did the recommended inversion cycles, and rinsed between each chemistry. What could I have done wrong? 😢
propably underexposed the film. slide film does not have a lot of latitude. Even one stop over/under can leave you with useless results.
I had the same issue with my first roll of film. Upon further investigation, I found that you have to overexpose your film by two stops in order to process your slide film with D9.
Please tell me all of this is sold as a kit? Haha lovely video
Hey there! Thanks for your question. We do sell this as a kit, and you can find it on our site here: cinestillfilm.com/collections/laboratory-supplies/products/cs6-creative-slide-3-bath-process-for-color-timing-chrome-reversal-and-e-6-compatible-film
We hope this helps!
13:11 Don't know why I thought Linus was going in for a lick
what does the variation times do in the 2nd developer and the blix? what if I go say... 7 minutes second developer and 8 minutes blix? This is always been a bit of a mystery with me.
The times for the second developer and blix are the minimum times since these steps are performed to completion. More time won’t hurt.
Which way does it dilute is it one part water three parts developer or three parts water one part developer
Always 1 part developer to 1-3 parts water depending on the dilution you want to use.
Why change the units of measurement halfway through?
Exactly! Otherwise it's a great video. Unfortunately it looks like CineStill is satisfied with only the US market since they use the antiquated measurements. Looks narrow and provincial. I doubt it would be so difficult to overlay the English measurements with the rest-of-the-world metrics in text.
Why not use 240ml of Developer, as the jobo tank say and do rotational movement? This would save a lot. Or does it make a difference in image quality, as we know from some bw developers that don´t like rotation?
Rotation will save you a lot of 1st developer if you are set up to do so. It’s not a problem for Cs6. Inversion method is more universal and easier to start. It wouldn’t affect the Cr6 or Bf6 as those are meant to be recombined and reused.
One thing to keep in mind is that the first developer only lasts 2-6 weeks once mixed, so it's likely that you'll run out of time before you run out of developer no matter how little you use. I did try using the CS chems for rotation development in a Lab-Box and the results seemed fine.
@@jlwilliams 1-er developer D9/T9 or D6 is only for one shot so it will end after 8 rolls
First developers come in concentrate form to be mixed and stored as a 1 Liter “stock solution” but are then diluted 1:1 or further (depending on the working dilution you use for D9) to create 2 Liters or more of “working solution” dilution. Stock solution stores better over time.
@@CineStillFilm Well , I will send my comments . Out of 5 Fuji Provia 100 f films , unfortunately I broke completely 2 films . Disaster . All done with the recommended temeperature and development times . My biggest surprise was that the best films were developed at 1:3 dilution . I think that there is something wrong with your chemistry (formula). I suppose that there is too little hydroquinone .
I know that these companies don't want to address this to avoid liability but what do you do with the one shot developer? Can it go down the drain? If you make 500mL of liquid waste you have to keep around for every 2 rolls I don't see how practical this is so what do you do with it?
We actually do address this, and we have a webpage dedicated to this concern in the main menu of our website.
cinestillfilm.com/pages/photo-waste-management
The one shot developer is essentially a black and white developer so you treat it the same way you would when processing B&W film. Since we love this analog world that we live in, we do not avoid it in manufacturing or in guidance. In the end, we all have to be responsible for preserving our local environment.
homie got his money’s worth shooting on half frame. 72 frames is is better than 36 for the same price am i right?
This is a little bit more work than clicking import in Lightroom. I’ll probably let a lab develop when I decide to bother with film again.
The chemistry is part of the fun. are you taking photos or making art?
We want people to shoot slides
Update: FuguFilm 400 is common soon and so excited
This is terribly wrong! I can’t believe it! That’s not how you are supposed to write down the number 9 3:45 😵😂
let me live!!!! 999999999
@@linusandhiscamera oh man! 😂😂😂😂 keep the good work! Your charisma is unique
And learn to hold the marker correctly
this is way harder than color negative film.
Possibly the Cinestill CS 6 kit is good for developing old Kodak Ektachrome . Most people write that this chemistry is far from the quality of Fuji Hunt Chrome 6 . It even has a funny nickname ''creative chemistry '' . Why someone created a chemistry that does not meet the rigors of the E-6 process ????? How can your chemistry destroy Fuji Chrome Provia /Velvia reversal film ? Why does the slide come out too dark at 105 F and after a development time of as much as 12 minutes in D-9/ T-9 developer . Give the exact amount and chemical composition of D-9/T-9 . Wonders you write that in 2 liters 1:1 you can develop up to 16 rolls . This is complete nonsense and fraud .
Our Cs6 Creative Slide process is designed to give photographers more creative control than conventional E6, giving you options for first developer which determine the color balance and contrast of your slides, and works especially well with the new Kodak Ektachrome. This process has undergone rigorous testing and R&D and meets Kodak E-6 processing standards when processing with the conventional D6 first developer. cinestillfilm.com/blogs/news/no-compromises-cs6-3-bath-process-vs-e-6-6-bath-processing The only difference is 3 baths instead of 6, which is optimized for one-shot/reuse home processing rather than replenishment. Fuji Chrome Provia/Velvia can also be processed in the conventional D6 first developer and match E-6 lab processing.
For all E-6 processes you can vary the 1st Dev time between 5 to 7 minutes to produce desired density at a selected temperature (±4°C), which suits your processing conditions and technique. As a starting point use the midpoint of the range, i.e., 6 minutes, with maximum of 8.5 minutes for normal processing.
2 liters of D6 1:1 one-shot working solution can develop up to 16 rolls, since only about 4oz (112ml) is needed in rotary processors like Jobo, but it is dependent on the volume of the tank you are using.
Great video except when you exclusively use US measurements. That means I have to change F to C, etc. Sorry, but it looks very provincial. Maybe overlay the video with metric, for all of the rest of the world who don't live with ancient measurements?
We provide celsius and metric measurements in the instructions. cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0339/5113/files/e2021_New_Cs6_Instruction.pdf?v=1645830252
@@CineStillFilm Thanks. I found the instructions with the chemicals and I've written all the instructions on my mirror in my bathroom-darkroom. But it still looks very narrow for a company that sells internationally to not use both measurement scales in all your videos and promotions.