They were always called jig saws in the Uk I remember my dad obtaining a jig saw attachment to fit on his Bridges drill back in 59 or 60. He cut me out a gun shape from a plank of wood which I promptly broke attacking the orange tree in the back garden.Paul who ever taught you glass work should have shown you how to trim grp with a sharp knife once it reaches the putty stage, so much easier than glass dust every where, also facilitates release.
Thanks David. Great childhood story. Yes, I do know about cutting the excess at a certain stage. No one ever showed me. I just haven't done it. I do fibreglass maybe once a year? I do sand outside and the wind blows the dust away.
I was thinking the same about trimming the glass when it's 'green', it's what I was taught to do. Ian was the only one allowed to use the diamond disc on disc cutter but as it was his company we didn't argue.(around 1980 when diamond discs were REALLY expensive around £30~£50.00)
Big issue is getting the thing *symmetrical.* I think the struggle I saw here was why I went to a thin coating of softened beeswax (toilet gasket) as a mold-coating to make for easier separation.
Yep , they were saber saws at my house, too(Sabre trademark name?). Jigsaws were mounted to a table in a fixed position in my mind (cutting jigsaw puzzles anyone?)... The seat on the desert sled photo looks like a BSA Lightning seat. The seat base looks like an old Bultaco fiberglass seat base I have in the garage. Thanks for the very instructive and entertaining vid!
Zip disks work fine to cut. Vacuum bagging is remarkably easy check out the model aircraft guys. Less resin is good, peel ply helps reduce resin excess. Woven cloth conforms well and is neater to use. Thinner carbon in multiple layers would conform better. But your system produced a nice seat.
That’s the beginning of a Ferrari, Paul. Also, we’ve always called the aforementioned machine a Jigsaw here too but I’m sure it’s a hand held reciprocating detail cutter or some such - like that particulate suit, paper based breathing apparatus, ear defenders, nylon hammer, centimetres, litres, kilometres, phalanges protectors, protruding concentration tongue….
Like My FATHER, when I work around guys I can always tell when they call things by the old Timey-name (I'm 53yrs old myself) But guys now call them ZIP TIES, old guys call them Tye-Wraps? Same as Jig Saw/Sabre Saw I suppose? Dad always called it Sabre saw, and so do I ..... I typically De-mold parts like that with compressed air- Youre fighting that seat pan so much because it has NO pattern-draft, in fact, it has the opposite of that as the sides curl around - very tough to de-mold THAT SHAPE of seat is known as a "Bum Stop" because the bump at the back stops your BUM from sliding off the back when you gas it! Hahaha
Yes, jigsaw. A sabresaw has a long free floating reciprocating blade?? Seat looks a little thick/high in the middle, but maybe it will be more comfortable like that. Thanks guys.
Sheesh, mate. You've got to be real careful where you place the seat when you're belting away with the hammer. There's some delicate pieces of anatomy just waiting to be mangled by one errant hammer swing!!!!
Your use of hot glue is to my use of duct tape. That looks great. Haven't even thought about Mitch's camera work because it's always spot on and in focus. Your both professional on both sides of the camera, which makes watching your videos enjoyable as instructional. Keep up the great videos.
Hi Paul, my first encounter that saw was in early 80's as a handyman in South East Asia, we all call it Jig saw , I don't know if it has any other name in my region. : )
The jig is up. I grew up knowing it as a saber saw. Today, I call it both names. I have always thought of a bench mounted say with a small table that uses a scroll type of blade is a jig saw. I blame the people in marketing for the confusion.
You had a good workout then Paul lol It was good to leave in the difficulties you had removing the Mould it just shows that the pros have problems too, good Video 👍
Wow Paul, that was finicky work! And yes, Mitch does a great job, and editing video so it flows organically is also a finicky job - you are both well matched for the project!
Anyone else out there notice at 15:05 how that first arched wire to form seat hump is the exact radius to match the front rim of the Aermacchi on the lift behind him? Yes folks, he is that good.
I prefer to lever the cast and mold apart with a flat tool. As I go I drop in small coins and place popsicle sticks to act as wedges to keep the sections under a separating tension,you can use flat washers. Far easier than bashing away with a mallet. Small moldings like this are ideal for vacuum bagging. I vacuum bag everything these days,using garbage bags. You get no air bubbles ,the lay up follows the contours perfectly and the resin is kept to a minimum. You lay the wetted composite on the mold, put an oversize sheet of plastic film over it ,a thick (2~3mm) layer of paper towels next with the vacuum line on it and then put it in the bag and seal it with tape and connect to a vacuum pump. I put the whole thing in my car on a sunny day and it is cured to the point where it can be removed from the bag , in 3 to 4 hours. If you want to, all the vacuum bagging materials can be bought from composite suppliers.
when cuttting fiberglass, esp. in situ, I use mostly an "alternating saw" , which also makes much less dust compared to a rotating saw (Fein is a top quality brand around here, but intermediate brands such as Bosch work just as well for laminated)
Commonly known as an occilating tool on this side of the pond. Fein is the originator and still the finest. (I bought one c. 1990) Thankfully their patent expired and I don't pay $45 for one blade anymore. Diamond blades are available inexpensively from other brands.
I always used compressed air to separate the part from the mold. Hitting it can cause star fractures. What do I know,, I left the business after 20 years before CF was commonly available.
I don't make a lot of comments, but... Sabersaw is like Skilsaw, or Sawzall (now known as circular saws and reciprocating saw, respectively), they all have other names when made by someone else, but they were so significant of an improvement to tools that the name of the original was used for those that came after it - which is a great segue into a tool you really need, which was made by Porter Cable alone for many years though without a catchy name the Oscillating Tool (Mitch, being a woodworker, may have one). Its a much better tool than your angle grinder, to cut pieces from their moulds (*and a million other precision jobs). I also rarely ever give "how to" advice, to a content creator, but I do have a fair bit of experience with almost everything done in this episode... there are a few things I'd have done differently, so that I struggled much less than you did, here. One, the BIG one, polyvinyl-acetate (PVA) mould release agent. You spray it over the final wax coat, it dries pretty quickly, and it makes the mould let go of the part so much more easily *I wouldn't even pretend consider casting a body panel without it! Two, I'd make the mould much stouter, with some bracing inside to hold its shape while thermo-cycling, and to provide a way to pull on it ...the two moved around, together, as you pulled and hit it *I'd also have considered skirting to mould to keep the part from closing over the edge of the mould ...but that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish, and wasn't conducive to the way you mocked up the form. And lastly, given the mould had no skirts, I'd have used an oscillating tool to trim the part all the way around, save for a tab at the back to push/pull on (*coinciding with a good handle on the mould). I don't regularly hammer small parts out of a mould. :P
The lines on the Cub have to 'flow'??? I've always tried to trim the excess glass off with a cheap pair of Lister bandage scissors when it reaches a leather hard state. But I always use epoxy. It doesn't go off as quickly as polyester. Beautiful work Paul! Thank you (and Mitch!) for having us along.
I"m really impressed that you stayed cheerful the whole time you were wrestling the pan off the mold. If I was doing that, it would have been a whole pile of yelling and cursing. 😂 That's a really interesting and amazingly straightforward process for getting the pan and seat contours right. That saddle's going to look great. Mitch gets props too, absolutely - editing a bunch of raw video together into something that's interesting, engaging, and maintains pace, is a serious skill.
great teamwork, just like the dynamic duo, now i can`t wait for the next exciting instalment! Paul, the side stand on my tiger cub broke the other day, I`d stopped to fill up, and it just keeled over but I caught it , part of the braze had come away from the tube, I can weld it,, I hope.
@@jimurrata6785 THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT DAMHIK ! it has to be welded ,and any mess is inevitable, it will be then pinned and re-flowed to render a secure joint ,and suitably re-finished prior to painting!
@@MegaTubescreamer Brazing is _not_ welding. (as I'm sure any fussy frame builder will attest) Welding is _fusion_ of the two pieces of base metal. I hope your side stand repair goes well! 🙂
@@paulbrodie thanks Paul, its fixed ,someone had tried to mend it before by the look of it, so i had to clean off the previous attempt ,it should last another sixty years!
Didn’t realize you’d have that much trouble de-molding your part. Wish I’d have said something the other day. In my boat factory days we used air to de-mold our parts. We had a satellite air tank that stood about 16 feet tall with a dump valve attached to a 4 or 5 inch rubber hose. Using Delrin wedges like you we’d separate the edge and push in the flattened end of the rubber hose. It took two guys to hold the hose and someone to control the dump valve. It was always a good time when new guys would hire in because we’d get to watch as the hose would blow out and put them on their asses. Back to your seat pan,you need some 3/8,1/2 and 3/4 inch flexible plastic air line depending upon the area of the part you’re de-molding. Along with the line a ball valve and compression fittings for whatever size hose you’re using.. I’ve made a couple of portable units for my buddies that have chopper guns and work on parts outside. They were nothing more than a portable air tank and one inch brass ball valve,empty propane tanks work just as well with a handle welded on. Also excellent for blowing tires onto the bead when you’re working with tubeless stuff. As far as the plastic line I mentioned,most auto supplies have it in stock as it’s used for tractor trailer brakes and air ride systems. Again great video and great camera work from Mitch. 👍
Jigsaw puzzles were so named because they were made by the forerunner of the electric jig saw. I've never heard of a Sabre saw before, so I'm guessing that's a N.American term.
Mine is a "Junk saw " I got it at KMart in 76. It is KMart brand and the original cord is about 10 inches long , a California safety features " supposed to keep you from sawing through the cord .I know makes no sense because you can't use it without a extensions cord . Ok I got up and looked at my saw it is labeled Saber saw. I have also seen Scrolling saws, similar designs except they have a knob on top above the blade that rotates the blade so you can turn the cut without swinging the entire saw body . Used one at work .
To de mold - if the bottom edge I’d the finish shape for the pan cut the excess off flush w/the edge of the pan (a air hack saw w/a metal blade works great) then get some plastic wedges (mold tools) start putting them around the edge , be patient & the part should pop off . Also next time spray the mold w/PVA. You can also use air to help it come off the mold. I think every time I do composites I learn something ( or what not to do real fast 😎). The pan turned out nice !
Fiberglass is my least favorite material to work with, i have a lot of respect for the insulation guys and anyone who works with that itchy mess all day. I’ve tried paper suits, baby powder, you name it and I always manage to come out itching all over and feeling like I have microscopic pieces of glass fiber in my skin. Great work.
Thanks Glen. I only built one nice balsa wood plane with a .35 motor. We went for a holiday and when we got back found out that our dog had eaten my plane. Still have the motor.
Thanks Paul and Mitch. My favourite videos are the ones where I think "pfft that'll never work". The very best ones are where I think that a couple of times. This was one of the good ones, I thought "that'll never work" a couple of times.
I love what you eye see's! This is a great example of solidifying your vision in wire form. We always called that type of saw a saber saw, but we're old. Great video and great choice of music to go with it.
My dad called it a saber saw sometimes, but back to the video, you are the most even tempered fellow to not totally lose your cool while trying to pop your seat off that mold.
As we're about the same age, perhaps it's a generational thing although I've always called it a Sabre Saw. Great video although you had me grimacing when removing the mold from the pan. I thought It would break before it popped out. I'm use to working with Epoxy/FG work which seems less rigid than Polyester Resin/Fiberglass. I look forward to the finished product. :-)
Jigsaws had a table and were stationary and the little blade was attached to a spring and guide on one end. That blade was small enough to make... a jig saw puzzle. The sabre saw was the hand held deal and the blade was too thick and not supported on both ends so it tended to whip. A scroll saw was the hand held deal with a blade that could be rotated independent of the body.
Michael, I think you are talking about the Closed Caption that sometimes appears at the bottom. That can be switched off below the screen if you look for "CC". Thanks for watching.
Aspirin and Heroin were trademark drugs for Bayer Drug company... I had a native Russian-speaking person ask me if I had a Zerox machine. It took me about 5 times before I finally understood what they were asking.
As always, thanks Paul & Mitch. I think for this project, it should be a Saber-Toothed Tiger Cub Saw. Mitch says "It complains about the music? It puts the bass solo on its skin or it gets the hose again."
It's at the upholsterer. We will see what it looks like when he gets back from Mexico. Also the camera angle might be fooling you. I spent many hours being fussy with the shape.
On a new mould, its always a good idea to use PVA as well as wax for the first few pulls. Without PVA the first pulls can be very difficult and mean part or mould gets damaged.
@@paulbrodie Looked a real pain! Using PVA makes release from green moulds much easier, but obviously dulls the surface finish a bit. You got a very good finish, and few air bubbles, which are a common issue on wet lay carbon.
Hi Paul & Mitch, Great episode! The wire form should really help your upholsterer. Looking good! I was happy to see you wearing the safety equipment today - especially cutting on fiberglass. I always called it a sabersaw, too. Mine was a hand-me-down, with no speed control-just On/Off.
nice vid, ! but a tip: im NO pro, but ive found that food wrap ( saran wrap ) works VERY well as a release agent for f'glas.wheres part 2 where you make a pad?
I've always called it a jigsaw but in all fairness I'm 26 years old so I'm not exactly worldly.
They were always called jig saws in the Uk I remember my dad obtaining a jig saw attachment to fit on his Bridges drill back in 59 or 60. He cut me out a gun shape from a plank of wood which I promptly broke attacking the orange tree in the back garden.Paul who ever taught you glass work should have shown you how to trim grp with a sharp knife once it reaches the putty stage, so much easier than glass dust every where, also facilitates release.
Thanks David. Great childhood story. Yes, I do know about cutting the excess at a certain stage. No one ever showed me. I just haven't done it. I do fibreglass maybe once a year? I do sand outside and the wind blows the dust away.
I was thinking the same about trimming the glass when it's 'green', it's what I was taught to do. Ian was the only one allowed to use the diamond disc on disc cutter but as it was his company we didn't argue.(around 1980 when diamond discs were REALLY expensive around £30~£50.00)
Big issue is getting the thing *symmetrical.*
I think the struggle I saw here was why I went to a thin coating of softened beeswax (toilet gasket) as a mold-coating to make for easier separation.
Yep , they were saber saws at my house, too(Sabre trademark name?). Jigsaws were mounted to a table in a fixed position in my mind (cutting jigsaw puzzles anyone?)... The seat on the desert sled photo looks like a BSA Lightning seat. The seat base looks like an old Bultaco fiberglass seat base I have in the garage. Thanks for the very instructive and entertaining vid!
Tom, thank you for watching and commenting.
Zip disks work fine to cut. Vacuum bagging is remarkably easy check out the model aircraft guys. Less resin is good, peel ply helps reduce resin excess. Woven cloth conforms well and is neater to use. Thinner carbon in multiple layers would conform better. But your system produced a nice seat.
Thanks Charlie. Good tips.
The bass guitar background music was making me anxious. Good video though
Thanks Andy.
I've seen guys use compressed air to separate the mold/plug.
Yes, I should have, but had never heard of that technique...
Jeeeesss, i,m itching just watching you, lol
The seat shown in the desert sled photo was a Bates Cross Country saddle, or clone thereof. Seemed to be the choice on most of the desert rigs.
I think you are correct!
Uses polyvinyl alcohol as a release agent. You just spray a little water in between and it releases automatically.
That's what I've used too, PVA and water afterwards. A nice looking part just the same!
That’s the beginning of a Ferrari, Paul. Also, we’ve always called the aforementioned machine a Jigsaw here too but I’m sure it’s a hand held reciprocating detail cutter or some such - like that particulate suit, paper based breathing apparatus, ear defenders, nylon hammer, centimetres, litres, kilometres, phalanges protectors, protruding concentration tongue….
I think I know where you've been hanging out :)
Like My FATHER, when I work around guys I can always tell when they call things by the old Timey-name (I'm 53yrs old myself) But guys now call them ZIP TIES, old guys call them Tye-Wraps? Same as Jig Saw/Sabre Saw I suppose? Dad always called it Sabre saw, and so do I .....
I typically De-mold parts like that with compressed air- Youre fighting that seat pan so much because it has NO pattern-draft, in fact, it has the opposite of that as the sides curl around - very tough to de-mold
THAT SHAPE of seat is known as a "Bum Stop" because the bump at the back stops your BUM from sliding off the back when you gas it! Hahaha
Zip Ties? I've always called them Zap Straps! I will need that Bum Stop because we all know how powerful a Cub can be.
@@paulbrodie Watch out, she's a Powerhouse! Hahaha
Yes, jigsaw. A sabresaw has a long free floating reciprocating blade?? Seat looks a little thick/high in the middle, but maybe it will be more comfortable like that. Thanks guys.
That part put up a fight, think there was a little positive lock going on. I liked the way you got more brutal as time went on, been there done that.
I should have tried some air pressure, as some have suggested..
I call it both, I think Porter cable or Skill called it the saber saw if I remember correctly.
Groovy background music too, reminiscent of the soundtrack for On Any Sunday. A coincidence? Who knows. Who cares. It's perfect.
We can thank Mitch for the music.
Sheesh, mate. You've got to be real careful where you place the seat when you're belting away with the hammer. There's some delicate pieces of anatomy just waiting to be mangled by one errant hammer swing!!!!
All the more reason to be very careful!
When I worked at a fiberglass maufacur before the fiberglass fully kicked off got fully hardened we cut off with a razor blade.
Yes.
Your use of hot glue is to my use of duct tape. That looks great. Haven't even thought about Mitch's camera work because it's always spot on and in focus. Your both professional on both sides of the camera, which makes watching your videos enjoyable as instructional. Keep up the great videos.
Ray, thanks for liking our videos :)
Hi Paul, my first encounter that saw was in early 80's as a handyman in South East Asia, we all call it Jig saw , I don't know if it has any other name in my region. : )
Here is a useful note on hot glue. You can debond it almost instantly and even break it down into mush with isopropyl alcohol (99%).
The jig is up. I grew up knowing it as a saber saw. Today, I call it both names. I have always thought of a bench mounted say with a small table that uses a scroll type of blade is a jig saw. I blame the people in marketing for the confusion.
Yes, this time we will blame Marketing.
My first recollections were a sabre saw...I go with the flow now and call it a jigsaw😅
i use the air compressor and stick the gun between the mould and the "product" toreleasethe part from the mold.
That's a good tip. Thanks.
You had a good workout then Paul lol It was good to leave in the difficulties you had removing the Mould it just shows that the pros have problems too, good Video 👍
Thank you John.
FLOWS... Nicely with The Tank.. TY Sir.('S...Camera Man Also..lol)
Thanks Huck.
Oscillating saws do a real good job of cutting fiberglass or carbon, plus they don´t throw up dust.
Thats going to look fantastic...but working with fibreglass looks like a right pain!
Working with fibreglass is definitely a learning process.
Wow Paul, that was finicky work! And yes, Mitch does a great job, and editing video so it flows organically is also a finicky job - you are both well matched for the project!
Thanks again! Teamwork!
Mitch, Amazing job! , pretty interesting video, I have not seen tho whole process of building a seat before
GAD - Glue Aided Design
The wire frame came out good. Are you going to have front of seat 'lean forwards' over the rear of tank?
Yes, it does lean forward a little bit.
Mould separation was a bit..mmm but the end result is really nice.
Yes, mold separation was a bitch. Thanks.
@15:05 , the way the hoop lines up with the wheel in the background
Brodie Brilliance once again, but am I the only one feeling itchy?
It doesn't bother me so much.
Anyone else out there notice at 15:05 how that first arched wire to form seat hump is the exact radius to match the front rim of the Aermacchi on the lift behind him? Yes folks, he is that good.
Kevin, you have the Eagle Eye!
I remember it as a Sabre saw and slowly being transitioned to Jig saw.
wow Paul you had me sweating to watching you remove that mould!
Yes, it did fight me for sure.
Mitch is not only the operator, but also video editor). Am I right?
Nice work, as always!
Stay safe!
Yes, Mitch is the videographer, the editor, and also a Man of Mystery...
Feels like John Britten building his entire bike with wires.
I was was taught to cut the excess off with a knife when it was “green” so only part set. Very easy if you judge it right
Yes, that has been mentioned more than once..
Love the shape, but front of seats a bit thick IMO
I prefer to lever the cast and mold apart with a flat tool. As I go I drop in small coins and place popsicle sticks to act as wedges to keep the sections under a separating tension,you can use flat washers.
Far easier than bashing away with a mallet.
Small moldings like this are ideal for vacuum bagging. I vacuum bag everything these days,using garbage bags.
You get no air bubbles ,the lay up follows the contours perfectly and the resin is kept to a minimum.
You lay the wetted composite on the mold, put an oversize sheet of plastic film over it ,a thick (2~3mm) layer of paper towels next with the vacuum line on it and then put it in the bag and seal it with tape and connect to a vacuum pump.
I put the whole thing in my car on a sunny day and it is cured to the point where it can be removed from the bag , in 3 to 4 hours.
If you want to, all the vacuum bagging materials can be bought from composite suppliers.
Thanks.
when cuttting fiberglass, esp. in situ, I use mostly an "alternating saw" , which also makes much less dust compared to a rotating saw (Fein is a top quality brand around here, but intermediate brands such as Bosch work just as well for laminated)
Commonly known as an occilating tool on this side of the pond.
Fein is the originator and still the finest. (I bought one c. 1990)
Thankfully their patent expired and I don't pay $45 for one blade anymore.
Diamond blades are available inexpensively from other brands.
Both Paul. Saber saw and Jig saw.
I always used compressed air to separate the part from the mold. Hitting it can cause star fractures. What do I know,, I left the business after 20 years before CF was commonly available.
Yes, I have been told about compressed air and water pressure to part the mold, thanks.
I don't make a lot of comments, but...
Sabersaw is like Skilsaw, or Sawzall (now known as circular saws and reciprocating saw, respectively), they all have other names when made by someone else, but they were so significant of an improvement to tools that the name of the original was used for those that came after it - which is a great segue into a tool you really need, which was made by Porter Cable alone for many years though without a catchy name the Oscillating Tool (Mitch, being a woodworker, may have one). Its a much better tool than your angle grinder, to cut pieces from their moulds (*and a million other precision jobs).
I also rarely ever give "how to" advice, to a content creator, but I do have a fair bit of experience with almost everything done in this episode... there are a few things I'd have done differently, so that I struggled much less than you did, here.
One, the BIG one, polyvinyl-acetate (PVA) mould release agent. You spray it over the final wax coat, it dries pretty quickly, and it makes the mould let go of the part so much more easily *I wouldn't even pretend consider casting a body panel without it!
Two, I'd make the mould much stouter, with some bracing inside to hold its shape while thermo-cycling, and to provide a way to pull on it ...the two moved around, together, as you pulled and hit it *I'd also have considered skirting to mould to keep the part from closing over the edge of the mould ...but that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish, and wasn't conducive to the way you mocked up the form.
And lastly, given the mould had no skirts, I'd have used an oscillating tool to trim the part all the way around, save for a tab at the back to push/pull on (*coinciding with a good handle on the mould).
I don't regularly hammer small parts out of a mould. :P
Yes, I do so little fiberglas work there are sure to be better ways to do some parts of the process. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😉
The lines on the Cub have to 'flow'???
I've always tried to trim the excess glass off with a cheap pair of Lister bandage scissors when it reaches a leather hard state.
But I always use epoxy. It doesn't go off as quickly as polyester.
Beautiful work Paul! Thank you (and Mitch!) for having us along.
Thanks Jim. I hope the lines will flow. I have yet to use epoxy resin.
A part submerged in a bathtub can let go.
I"m really impressed that you stayed cheerful the whole time you were wrestling the pan off the mold. If I was doing that, it would have been a whole pile of yelling and cursing. 😂 That's a really interesting and amazingly straightforward process for getting the pan and seat contours right. That saddle's going to look great. Mitch gets props too, absolutely - editing a bunch of raw video together into something that's interesting, engaging, and maintains pace, is a serious skill.
Fred, thanks for watching and commenting. Mitch and I are a good team :)
Well, Canadians are known to be polite...
@@paulbrodie Does that mean Mitch is a great editor? lol
@@nightster6378 One of the best.
@@paulbrodie Yeah he is!
great teamwork, just like the dynamic duo, now i can`t wait for the
next exciting instalment! Paul, the side stand on my tiger cub broke
the other day, I`d stopped to fill up, and it just keeled over but I caught it ,
part of the braze had come away from the tube, I can weld it,, I hope.
You can't weld near braze.
The brass (or bronze) will just boil off making a horrendous mess.
DAMHIK. 😳
@@jimurrata6785 THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT DAMHIK ! it has to be welded ,and any mess is inevitable, it will be then pinned and re-flowed to render a secure joint ,and suitably re-finished prior to painting!
@@MegaTubescreamer Brazing is _not_ welding. (as I'm sure any fussy frame builder will attest)
Welding is _fusion_ of the two pieces of base metal.
I hope your side stand repair goes well! 🙂
Thanks William. The solution might be brazing, like Jim mentioned.
@@paulbrodie thanks Paul, its fixed ,someone had tried to mend it before by the look of it, so i had to clean off the previous attempt ,it should last another sixty years!
Paul . You shouldn't have that mutch troubles. Try DUPONT TEFLON RELICE AGENT it works
It also depends on the shape of the mold. My end result was ok.
Didn’t realize you’d have that much trouble de-molding your part. Wish I’d have said something the other day. In my boat factory days we used air to de-mold our parts. We had a satellite air tank that stood about 16 feet tall with a dump valve attached to a 4 or 5 inch rubber hose. Using Delrin wedges like you we’d separate the edge and push in the flattened end of the rubber hose. It took two guys to hold the hose and someone to control the dump valve. It was always a good time when new guys would hire in because we’d get to watch as the hose would blow out and put them on their asses. Back to your seat pan,you need some 3/8,1/2 and 3/4 inch flexible plastic air line depending upon the area of the part you’re de-molding. Along with the line a ball valve and compression fittings for whatever size hose you’re using.. I’ve made a couple of portable units for my buddies that have chopper guns and work on parts outside. They were nothing more than a portable air tank and one inch brass ball valve,empty propane tanks work just as well with a handle welded on. Also excellent for blowing tires onto the bead when you’re working with tubeless stuff. As far as the plastic line I mentioned,most auto supplies have it in stock as it’s used for tractor trailer brakes and air ride systems. Again great video and great camera work from Mitch. 👍
Good tips, thanks.
Jigsaw puzzles were so named because they were made by the forerunner of the electric jig saw.
I've never heard of a Sabre saw before, so I'm guessing that's a N.American term.
Apparently, my generation knows them as sabre saws. Whereas, the new generations...
Mine is a "Junk saw " I got it at KMart in 76. It is KMart brand and the original cord is about 10 inches long , a California safety features " supposed to keep you from sawing through the cord .I know makes no sense because you can't use it without a extensions cord .
Ok I got up and looked at my saw it is labeled Saber saw. I have also seen Scrolling saws, similar designs except they have a knob on top above the blade that rotates the blade so you can turn the cut without swinging the entire saw body . Used one at work .
From the comments I think we can conclude that either name works: sabre saw, or jigsaw.
Fun game of whack-a-mold :)
To de mold - if the bottom edge I’d the finish shape for the pan cut the excess off flush w/the edge of the pan (a air hack saw w/a metal blade works great) then get some plastic wedges (mold tools) start putting them around the edge , be patient & the part should pop off . Also next time spray the mold w/PVA. You can also use air to help it come off the mold. I think every time I do composites I learn something ( or what not to do real fast 😎). The pan turned out nice !
Thank you Mark.
Fiberglass is my least favorite material to work with, i have a lot of respect for the insulation guys and anyone who works with that itchy mess all day. I’ve tried paper suits, baby powder, you name it and I always manage to come out itching all over and feeling like I have microscopic pieces of glass fiber in my skin. Great work.
Thanks Andy. Somehow, fibreglass doesn't bother me.
Harmonize, dang it! Harmonize!
I didn't realise just how hot hot-glue was until I got a blob of it on a finger. I said "OUCH" .... or something glike that.
Yes, if you're sleepy it can definitely wake you up!
Gawd, fiberglass, I get itchy just knowing the stuff is in my attic.
Regardless, that seat will look quite smart!
Thank you. Fibreglass doesn't bother me.
The top corners look a little sharp, 90 degrees, a bigger radius might be more comfortable.
Mitch is a pro, looks great.
Would you believe I changed both top corners by using a larger radius? Mitch is good :)
Another awesome episode. Just a hunch here Paul, but did you also build a few Guillows balsa wood airplanes growing up???
Thanks Glen. I only built one nice balsa wood plane with a .35 motor. We went for a holiday and when we got back found out that our dog had eaten my plane. Still have the motor.
Sabre.. was the maker that made the first proper jig saw.. a bit like.. Skill.. saw.. Skil was/is a brand
I think you are correct..
I’ve always known it as a jigsaw in Australia. Hope Mitch and yourself enjoyed your coffees 👍
Thank you.
Thanks Paul and Mitch. My favourite videos are the ones where I think "pfft that'll never work". The very best ones are where I think that a couple of times. This was one of the good ones, I thought "that'll never work" a couple of times.
Thanks Don. As you can see, I just don't give up.
new coffee to hand , here we go.
Nice!, and, I’ve always called it a “Sabre Saw”!
Right on, I even spell it the same as you.
Good job Paul, but wouldn't it have been much easier to get some foam and cut/shape the foam yourself and just give that to the upholsterer to cover?
I would have had to go out and buy some foam. The welding rods were already in my shop. Either way can be effective.
I love what you eye see's! This is a great example of solidifying your vision in wire form. We always called that type of saw a saber saw, but we're old. Great video and great choice of music to go with it.
Millar, thank you. I took it to the upholsterer, and he knew exactly the shape I had in my mind.
My dad called it a saber saw sometimes, but back to the video, you are the most even tempered fellow to not totally lose your cool while trying to pop your seat off that mold.
I've done some fibreglass projects, and losing your cool really does nothing to help the process. One step at a time, and figure it out...
As we're about the same age, perhaps it's a generational thing although I've always called it a Sabre Saw. Great video although you had me grimacing when removing the mold from the pan. I thought It would break before it popped out. I'm use to working with Epoxy/FG work which seems less rigid than Polyester Resin/Fiberglass. I look forward to the finished product. :-)
Thank you Lori.
Jigsaws had a table and were stationary and the little blade was attached to a spring and guide on one end. That blade was small enough to make... a jig saw puzzle. The sabre saw was the hand held deal and the blade was too thick and not supported on both ends so it tended to whip. A scroll saw was the hand held deal with a blade that could be rotated independent of the body.
I still call them saber saws. (Still have my Dad’s all metal one, I won’t use without thick gloves)
Good job filming but the manuscript blocks the view sometimes
Michael, I think you are talking about the Closed Caption that sometimes appears at the bottom. That can be switched off below the screen if you look for "CC". Thanks for watching.
My old boss would call it a saber-saw as well. Sure did take me back when I heard you say it. Excellent work!
Thanks Kenny!
Always been a jigsaw in the Uk
Saber saw is a trademark brand name owned by Craftsman...like Skil saw for circular saw or Kleenex/facial tissue
Zerox for photocopiers?
Reciprocal saw vs. Sawzall
Aspirin and Heroin were trademark drugs for Bayer Drug company... I had a native Russian-speaking person ask me if I had a Zerox machine. It took me about 5 times before I finally understood what they were asking.
As an “olds cool” art student, I couldn’t help but notice the great tangent that was made at 15:07 in this video. Comment if you catch it…
Yes, others have noticed that as well. Thanks for watching.
As always, thanks Paul & Mitch.
I think for this project, it should be a Saber-Toothed Tiger Cub Saw.
Mitch says "It complains about the music? It puts the bass solo on its skin or it gets the hose again."
Thanks Alan.
Dat is gewoon een decoupeerzaag.
👍👍😁😁
It’s still a Sabre saw to me.
About time we met Mitch
Mitch is shy.
My dad, who worked in construction in the 1920s, called it a saber saw. A jig saw is what folks now call a scroll saw.
Really enjoy your videos
I grew up calling it a saber saw we would say jig saw for what I would call a scroll saw today
Thank you Alan.
Speaking of camera work... 15:05 that hoop is perfectly aligned with the rim in the background. Nice!
Nice eye!
That's awesome....
We always drilled a small hole through the mold that we would shoot a blast of air into with a nozzle. Pops them right off.
Yes, it seems air is the way to go
Watching you skin that mold made every part of my skin itch.
It doesn't bother me. I must be lucky.
The seat is at least an inch too tall through the middle maybe even 1.5 inches, otherwise it is OK
It's at the upholsterer. We will see what it looks like when he gets back from Mexico. Also the camera angle might be fooling you. I spent many hours being fussy with the shape.
On a new mould, its always a good idea to use PVA as well as wax for the first few pulls. Without PVA the first pulls can be very difficult and mean part or mould gets damaged.
Yes, that was not easy.
@@paulbrodie Looked a real pain! Using PVA makes release from green moulds much easier, but obviously dulls the surface finish a bit.
You got a very good finish, and few air bubbles, which are a common issue on wet lay carbon.
Jig saw in Australia
Awesome work Mitch
You do ok to Paul 👍
Thanks 👍 Mitch certainly is getting more comments lately.
O there is got to be a better way . Then old school. If it's hard to do it wrong . I re don't know but that looked hard to deal with
Sometimes parts pop off the mold easily, and sometimes they fight you.
Paul u are Legend ✌️
Thanks Wolfgang.
Paul Brodie and Mitchell Nurse you are the best 😁✌️
Thank you very much from both of us :)
Hi Paul & Mitch, Great episode! The wire form should really help your upholsterer. Looking good! I was happy to see you wearing the safety equipment today - especially cutting on fiberglass.
I always called it a sabersaw, too. Mine was a hand-me-down, with no speed control-just On/Off.
Thanks Tom. Yes, the upholsterer was impressed with the wine form. Never seen anything quite like it.
Mayby the pressured air helps to delaminate the mold?
Yes, I have heard of using air / water pressure to separate.
Always a pleasure to be invited into your shop. Thanks. I have always known that tool as a saber saw.
Thanks for hanging out in our shop. Is Sabre spelt Sabre?
That’s a good question. I paused on the spelling when I wrote the comment.
nice vid, ! but a tip: im NO pro, but ive found that food wrap ( saran wrap ) works VERY well as a release agent for f'glas.wheres part 2 where you make a pad?
Would air pressure work blown inbetween the two pieces?
Someone else suggested that. I will try next time.