Also was just now reading the other comments and obviously you are very good at it making the videos and the work on that you show on them. Keep up the good work thanks!
I always add a very thin coating of neverseize to the hub, and the lug side of the rotor. Keeps the rotor and wheel from sticking, no hammer required next time. Just a little bit, wiped on with a paper towel goes a long way. I also coat the slide surfaces with that black only brake caliper pin grease. Seems to last a bit better than the neverseize long term. Otherwise great video!
I know this is old but why the T45 instead of 7mm brake socket? if it was to tight couldn't that T45 cause slipping and round out the caliber screw? I guess one could just use old pad and big C clamp like I've done for years? I like that tool though! I been wondering if changing rotors and pads can mess up ABS Sensor?
My rear driverside squeeks a little some times. It's just that one. All the rest are fine. I changed the pads and rotors all the way around with the most expensive ones I could get. It's been a few weeks like that. I took everything apart again today to literally triple check and everything looks perfect. The wear on the pads and rotors look like it should. I really don't get it. I been changing my own breaks for like 15 years. Anyone got any ideas? Only thing I can think of is maybe the rotor came bad from the factory. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I do have lifetime warranty on rotor and pads so I'm prolly just gona pull it all apart and return it
I'm no expert, but if they are ceramic pads, sometimes the ceramic lays in pad at a strange angle when they are manufactured and cause an unusual sequel. Had it happen on my durango, changed the pads, problem went away. Frined of mine who is a GM mechanic told me that is a problem sometimes if the ceramic chunk is large or laying weird.
You should not have to bleed the system, as the piston distance increases the fluid level in the master cylinder will lower slightly, this fluid is then moved back into the master cylinder by compressing the piston. Typically the only time a bleed is required if you are disconnecting the brake hose for caliper replacement.
no need to bleed brakes. just take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around it to catch the small amount that will overflow when pistons are compressed
Where did you buy the special tool to compress at 2:20 ? I borrowed one from OReilys and it did not quite fit. I used one from a neighbor but he does not remember where his came from.
I found myself in a bind today when I went by work on a sunday to do my wifes 2014 escape. I used some sort of puller I found at work that Ive never used and a pair of small channel locks. The puller was a threaded rod with a nut welded on the end that went through a piece of steel block that was threaded. I then spun the block until it would fit in between the piston and caliper and tightened until it stopped and turned the piston with the channels locks and then tightned at tad and turned some more and kept repeating until it was pushed back all the way. Worked great. Lol
I was wondering the same thing but would have to say yes because the piston compression tool only threads one way. There are no left hand threaded and right hand threaded main screw rods with the compression tool kit, only right hand threads.
Thank you for simplifying the process. You explain it to where anyone can understand what to do . Good job!
Also was just now reading the other comments and obviously you are very good at it making the videos and the work on that you show on them. Keep up the good work thanks!
Thanks. I am doing this tomorrow and you give me hope that I can actually do it!!!! Thanks. :)
Thanks for this video man! This helped for my wife’s 2015 escape, you saved my bacon, cheers
the closeup view really helps
I always add a very thin coating of neverseize to the hub, and the lug side of the rotor. Keeps the rotor and wheel from sticking, no hammer required next time. Just a little bit, wiped on with a paper towel goes a long way. I also coat the slide surfaces with that black only brake caliper pin grease. Seems to last a bit better than the neverseize long term. Otherwise great video!
7mm instead of t45 btw. Great video!
Thanks, had to get one for this job! Luckily I knew what to do for the rest of it. :)
I know this is old but why the T45 instead of 7mm brake socket? if it was to tight couldn't that T45 cause slipping and round out the caliber screw? I guess one could just use old pad and big C clamp like I've done for years? I like that tool though! I been wondering if changing rotors and pads can mess up ABS Sensor?
Excellent video, thanks for the valuable information. Blessings
If I painted the centers like these were painted with rustoleum, would this be as good as these factory painted ones?
Enjoyed this video. Thanks.
Thanks. What i have to do is very clear.
Do you have to replace the rotor every time you change your brake pads?
Did this step by step. The caliper moves back in forth. Is this normal until I drive it???
Very informative video.
Thank you
Three different garages? I bet you can never find your tools when you need them. I have trouble enough with just one garage and one work van.
My rear driverside squeeks a little some times. It's just that one. All the rest are fine. I changed the pads and rotors all the way around with the most expensive ones I could get. It's been a few weeks like that. I took everything apart again today to literally triple check and everything looks perfect. The wear on the pads and rotors look like it should. I really don't get it. I been changing my own breaks for like 15 years. Anyone got any ideas?
Only thing I can think of is maybe the rotor came bad from the factory. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I do have lifetime warranty on rotor and pads so I'm prolly just gona pull it all apart and return it
Also if ur reading this Chad I really appreciate the video. It's by far the best instructional video for changing breaks for this vehicle by far
I'm no expert, but if they are ceramic pads, sometimes the ceramic lays in pad at a strange angle when they are manufactured and cause an unusual sequel. Had it happen on my durango, changed the pads, problem went away. Frined of mine who is a GM mechanic told me that is a problem sometimes if the ceramic chunk is large or laying weird.
Do you have to bleed the brakes at all? Or just bolt everything on and go?
You should not have to bleed the system, as the piston distance increases the fluid level in the master cylinder will lower slightly, this fluid is then moved back into the master cylinder by compressing the piston. Typically the only time a bleed is required if you are disconnecting the brake hose for caliper replacement.
no need to bleed brakes. just take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around it to catch the small amount that will overflow when pistons are compressed
Where did you buy the special tool to compress at 2:20 ? I borrowed one from OReilys and it did not quite fit. I used one from a neighbor but he does not remember where his came from.
Did you ever find out where to get the tool? Or what the name of it is?
The car mechanic also works in the oilfields and currently out. I will let you know when he comes back home.
I found myself in a bind today when I went by work on a sunday to do my wifes 2014 escape. I used some sort of puller I found at work that Ive never used and a pair of small channel locks. The puller was a threaded rod with a nut welded on the end that went through a piece of steel block that was threaded. I then spun the block until it would fit in between the piston and caliper and tightened until it stopped and turned the piston with the channels locks and then tightned at tad and turned some more and kept repeating until it was pushed back all the way. Worked great. Lol
If it worked, it works!
I used a needle nose pliers, in the holes and rotate.
How do you change a wheel bearing
Don't know, didn't have to do that this vehicle. Check out South Main Auto, here on youtube.
For the left side. Does the piston turn clockwise as well?
I was wondering the same thing but would have to say yes because the piston compression tool only threads one way. There are no left hand threaded and right hand threaded main screw rods with the compression tool kit, only right hand threads.
Was this an AWD?
Ford escale 2017 frein arrière
Looking pretty rusty for a three year old car!
Thank you