Except there are different type rear brakes cylinders. On my 2013 ford edge you can't use a C-Clamp. You must screw the cylinder back in using a brake piston tool.
I wouldn't say so. I mean the shoots are gr8, but the wheel hub wasn't clean from rust, the caliper bracket wasn't clean from rust (places where brake pads slides at), when a brake caliper cylinder was pushed back, the old worn out brake fluid was pushed back to ABS module, which can damage it - before you start working on brakes 1st thing you do it to losen brake bleeder screw! Beside that the video was ok
You can't use a clamp on rear breaks... I have a 2013 escape and you need a special tool to fit into the 2 holes on master cylinder and turn it clock wise, it screws in... I just use a pair of needle nose and screwed the master cylinder in...
You have to screw clockwise and press at the same time you are screwing it in. It takes a good amount of pressure while you are turning. Don't open the bleeder valve! It's aluminum and will strip/cross thread easily and you will have to replace the whole caliper.
Charlie Smith you're 100% correct. You cant just compress the rear caliper piston, you need special tool that rotates and compresses the piston. The video is misleading.
This video is misleading ppl say fuck me his pads are on backwards the spring on the top of the pad is for the outside the two lil pins on the other pad are for the inside @5:50 u can see
I used this as a basic guide to do the brakes on my C-MAX hybrid. I did need to rent a brake piston tool to push the piston back in. Judging by other comments it looks like a lot of others had to do it as well. Not sure how you got yours pushed in with just a c-clamp.
Exactly. I was just writing that about the rear piston. Theres a special tool for that. I couldn't get mine in with a C Clamp either so I had to purchase the tool set made for that.
When compressing the caliper piston, take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir. Take a paper towel and sort of crumple it and place it into the reservoir to absorb the fluid as the piston pushes fluid back into the system -- helps avoid an overflow.
Theres a special tool for the rear piston. Thats why there are those 2 holes in the piston. A C Clamp is really not the right tool to use on the rear piston.
First unscrew the master cylinder cap to release pressure. I Did not try the C clamp on the rear calipers but I did use a set of needle nose pliers and pressure behind them to rotate the slavr cylinder back down. Worked great. I found out to remove the caliper it’s a Allen tip #6 a T-45 didn’t work with mine. 2013 Ford Escape AWD 2.5L SE.
Nice video. Appreciate the clarity of view AND the tip about the caliper screws falling into that abyss. LOL After reading comments, let me add the following observations: 1) ALWAYS have any parts store use your VIN to identify the correct parts for your vehicle. I have one of the first 2013 Ford Escape SE 1.6L 4-Cyl Turbo to come off the line. At that time, according to Ford, this was the only model set up for towing; hence the Turbo. I believe the tow capacity is around 3,600 pounds, which mine handles easily since it's flat, mostly straight and has long distance visibility allowing me to drive with the gas instead of the brakes. When putting in the exact information, including engine, instead of the VIN, every place I checked prices and Auto Zone, where I had to go locally, gave me the WRONG brake pads for the front! ONLY the VIN number forced each system to point to the LARGER brake pads needed for towing. The same larger front pads are used on the 2.0L and AWD models for 2013-2016/19, according to various sites and DIY videos, including O'Reilly Auto Parts. The VIN pulled up the exact same engine setup as input via the options for Make, Model, etc, but clearly the VIN is necessary to ensure the exact right parts, as I discovered when I went to hang the new pads. Why? Maybe after 2013 Ford offered the same setup but NOT for towing, so they came with the smaller caliper and pads. All I know is that in 2012, my setup was the only model listed as Tow-capable and all of the 1.6L Turbo models were setup the same way. After that, well, I suppose it must have made sense to Ford to offer the engine setup without the larger brakes. I would think that a few other differences should exist for towing, so that might have made it a cost/profit point for Ford. Regardless... ALWAYS take your VIN with you. With USAA, my vehicles' VINs are listed on my insurance card, which you're supposed to have with you; I keep mine in my wallet and a digital copy on my cell phone... so there's an easy way so that you don't have to copy it onto a scrap of paper or your hand, etc., when you get to the store. 2) The #6 Allen vs T45 Torx Mine uses the T45 Torx, so it will depend on your model and probably location of manufacturing. I suggest having a short extension available when using sockets so that you avoid accidentally bashing any brake lines... AND having BOTH an Allen AND a Torx set available. You'll use them for everything under the sun and I keep both the short sets and the extended sets on hand. 3) Rear Brake Piston I picked up a dual set of brake piston compression tools on Amazon for around $30; made by Orion Mechanical Tools (OMT) as I recall. Two separate tool boxes arrived; one for Disc and one for Drum. They work like a charm. The rear brake piston does in fact screw in, but that's not to say that you can't force it with a C-clamp which exerts greater force than the resistance of a lightly threaded piston meant to glide effortlessly for braking. I'm not sure about the design difference from the front but it seems to be fairly consistent across all manufacturers since the Disc Kit contains various sizes for nearly every manufacturer. One comment mentioned the Emergency Brake mechanism, so it makes sense that a screw-style piston is used. I recommend that regardless of method, that you do NOT have the Emergency Brake engaged while working on the rear brakes. I'm certain that if that's part of the reason for the screw system, that you risk even greater damage trying to screw or push that piston back while it's technically "locked" in the extended position. 4) When retaining the caliper, clean with Brakeleen or similar brake parts cleaner and then apply brake silicone gel to the hanger ends of both the caliper and the pads so that they slide. Before pushing the piston in, it's recommended to clean the extended portion and lube with the brake silicone gel all of the way around in order to help protect that expandable outer boot. Apply the same silicone lubricant/protector to the area around the rose clips on the front piston pads AND to the back of all other pads. This will help prevent rust, allow smooth movement and prevent noise. This is NOT the same as applying Anti-Squeal, which might still be necessary these days. 5) Based on Professional videos, you need a Torque wrench. As I recall, 31 FOOT-Pounds torque on the Caliper screws, whether #6 Allen or T45 Torx. AND the Tire Lugs get torqued to 129 FOOT-Pounds. Again, double check those numbers before torquing. AND I suggest having a 1/2-to-3/8 socket adapter for torquing. Larger torque means a 1/2" drive, however, most Allen and Torx sets seem to be the 3/8 socket variety... thus the need for an adapter. Auto Zone had a 4-adapter pack which includes everything you'll probably ever need, including that 1/2-to-3/8 adapter, for $12.99; probably not much cheaper on Amazon AND it was right there. 6) Support the caliper. Wire Brake Hanger or stout Velcro strap or 550 cord.... Or, since Auto Zone was out of hangers, I turned my front brake pad box on its tall end and placed the caliper on that. Worked perfectly. Avoid strain on the brake lines... ESPECIALLY when pushing the piston back in! If you choose not to open the bleeder valve, then SLOWLY compress the piston to avoid creating too much pressure by compressing faster than the system can handle the forced back flow. 7) ALWAYS pump up the brakes after any brake work. 8) FINAL STEP: ALWAYS check the brake fluid after any brake work and pump-up on the brakes to make sure that the level is correct. 9) Break-in your new Brakes It is recommended to break in new pads by driving and REPEATEDLY decelerating from 50 MPH to 30 MPH, allowing the brakes time to cool between each braking. This is NOT hard braking! AVOID hard braking during the first 500 miles on your new pads. Advice: don't do this during rush hour or use a winding road. An empty highway late night or early early morning is the safest. If the police pull you over, calmly explain what you are doing and that this is recommended by Professionals as the best way to ensure your brakes function with peak performance when needed. You might even be educating the officer who might even appreciate the tip... which he or she can Google to verify that you're not spinning some bizarre yarn. Be Safe.
Thank you for making this video, Great job! The Ford 2012 Focus looks almost identical to this and my rotors were stuck on like yours and seeing you remove yours help me remove mine.
When you squeeze the piston on the caliper, you might want to open the cap on the brake resivor to relive the pressure, pack some rags around the resivor to catch any fluid that may leak out.
You would be advised to clean the slides for the brake pads so they do not stick and cause the pads to wear prematurely and also turn the piston in to reset the emergency brake .
You need a square brake tool for that style caliper which twists in clock wise otherwise you will break the caliper. By using that C-clamp you literally broke the calipers
Hmm wrong about the C clamp. You need a special tool to fit into the two holes on caliper slide holes, Then you Screw them in otherwise you break the caliper. Second you didnt clean the area around the rotor hub, ensuring rust buildup for next rotor replacement. Also you didnt wire brush and then lube the brake pad grooves. Its also a good idea to clean and lube the caliper slider pins for smooth operation. Do it right or dont do it at all a wise man said once :)
Be Sure !. If over time ....You added break fluid as the breaks wore !. Be sure to take a look at the oil revisor !.. Or you will overfill it !. As you compress the break Caliber !..
Putting the car vehicle brake maintenance mode does not require the piston to be rotated back in. Also, did you buy new brake caliper bracket bolts? Do they have loctite on the threads?
DO NOT use the C Clamp, it will ruin the caliper. These must be wound back in with the tool to do it with. Also, T45 is not the correct tool, it is 7mm allen head.
Is that rusty area on outside of the old rotor an indication of a bad caliper or bad slide pins, I keep having this issue with my 14’ Focus st rear brake rotors, I’ve changed them twice and I’ve followed the process 100% and one side is perfect and now I’m getting a small 1/4” area on the outside of the rotor where I’m getting rust build up and I know the pad is contacting that area but not enough to take the rust off when I drive in salt or it rains a lot, my new rear brakes were perfect till the salt hit, I greased the sliders really good and I cleaned the slide brakes of debris And rust Is this a caliper issue? Only 37k on the car and back brakes have been on maybe 1-2k
I came here for a tools list before I start. I’ll probably rent the caliper tool from the parts store. Nothing worse than being in the middle of a job and your transportation is on jack stands! 😂
Nice Rush shirt, though you shouldn’t wear such fine threads for grunt work. I guess that’s why they call you the working man. As others have mentioned, there’s a number of notable mistakes/issues with this video. Good overview of the general process, but off on some important details.
Really should have cleaned the hub and added a bit of graphite grease before place the new rotor on. Also, everyone should know rear calipers need their pistons to be rotated for compression and DO NOT OPEN THE BLEED SCREW TO COMPRESS THE PISTON!
Alwayzsmilin ,,, you're wrong,, you do open the bleeder and turn the piston in,, you do not want to push dirty fluid into the master cylinder that's what blows the seal in them,,, you want to bleed the system completely new fluid,,, there's moisture in water behind that piston,,, there's water in that brake fluid that rust the brake lines out blows the master cylinder out freezes up the Piston the caliper,, !!! I take that piston out and clean it and the boar,,,
Im baffled to how the caliper pistons went back in without screwing them in. The emergency brake is in the caliper. Its made to lock outward and they have to be screwed inward. So there must be something totally wrong with that caliper to fail like that. And though your video was well done You should always clean off the points where the pads sit on the bracket. and if you really need to use a bigger hammer ..lol
@dachicagoan I can verify it is a 7 mm Allen head if you're using the original Ford Motorcraft part A T45 Torx just happens to fit if you look at the actual screw itself you will notice it is not star-shaped it has Allen slot to it I have a 2013 Ford Escape all wheel drive identical brake system and parts to what this gentleman is using and I also recommend do not use a clamp to clamp the piston in you can strip the emergency brake threads in the piston
Used a 7mm on my mother in laws car today but i couldnt get the caliper to compress by turning so im having her pick up a new one to see if that one is just broken
when you sped up video beating wonder how long that was! I have used PB Blaster and lil wd40 been beating for long time!! Bought to get small sledge hammer out! The say use a rubber sledge or wooden? But mine rotors on back been on since 2014, still had brake pads that said Ford on them Ha Ha!
Someone told me about this video...PEOPLE LOOK AT YOUR BRAKE PADS!!! The pad with the SPRING goes on the FRONT of the rotor.... There is a 2 holes on the piston... And there are 2 tabs on the back of the one pad... The 2 tabs go in the 2 holes in the piston...Soooooooooooo the one one that goes on the BACK of the rotor, is NOT the one with the spring.... The Spring on the OUTSIDE of the rotor, is what holds tension of the spring that goes threw the caliper its self...
Don't use the C-clamp for compressing the piston for the rear break. You must use the compression tool that turns the piston clockwise to compress. Suggestion to use the bleeding outlet is very wrong! I suggest you watch other video how to do it right. They are many missing steps in this video.
+Carrie G .... Hi. When you buy brakes at an auto parts store, you will see that they have like 3 grades-- (cheap, middle, expensive). I don't recommend the cheap ones as they usually squeal and leave a lot of brake dust all over your wheels. I have never had a problem with the middle brakes, but if you are a stickler for high price, thinking the more expensive the better, then buy the high end brakes or get OEM brakes at the dealership. Just make sure u avoid the cheap ones.
Good video , but you did not say any thing about winding the piston back into the caliper! I bent my big c-clamp trying to push that piston in! My neighbor came over and he told me about rewinding the piston.
,,, you always open the bleeder first,,, you do not want to push that moisture water and contaminants up to the master cylinder,,,,. His brakes were dragging to start with they'll be dragging and burnt up within 6 months again,,, slide pins should have been wire brushed in high heat grease put on them,,,, anti seize on the bolts,,,,. Each and every step he done was totally wrong,,,,. !!! Brake fluid should have been flushed and drained,,,. !!!!
Rick simpson its easy to say open the bleeder first and flush all the fluid out but up here in northern ny u dont touch bleeder s unless u have to. With the salt and corrosion 90% of the time they end up breaking off and turning into a mess and costomers dont wanna pay for a new caliper if the bleeder breaks. Nor do they want to pay for a brake flush. I agree he skiped alot of crucial steps when it comes to clean up and lubing and properly spinning pistons with the tool but i have done 1000s of break jobs and have never had one issue with compressing s piston without opening a bleeder. If the boot on the caliper is good and theres no leaks then there is no moisture in there to push back into the master. The fluid may be dark but it all mixes together anyways. Its a sealed sytem there is no moisture in it. If there is theres a problem. I take the caliper slides out and grease them and i also sand blast and lube the brakets in the spots where the pads sit and slide. Up here in ny u dont touch bleeders unless u have to. Watch eric o from south main auto do a brake job. Hes up here in the rust belt and he does them exactly like i do. Never had an issue.
Theres a special tool for the rear piston. Thats why there are those 2 holes in the piston. A C Clamp is really not the right tool to use on the rear piston. And NUCKLEHEAD??
As there were problems with uneven wear of pads, so they will remain. No cleaning, no female. The piston of the support is not pressed, but is screwed. I wouldn 't take this man 's example of replacement pads. Work in the empty.
Yep. That was probably the last time that some of us lucky people will ever see RUSH. With any luck, maybe in 5 years we will see one last farewell tour, but the way they were talking, its unlikely. It's the end of an era we are experiencing, my friend....
Geddy seemed positive, but Alex's health, and Neil's desire to stop I think have brought them to an end. I'm grateful to have been able to introduce my boys to them, sharing several shows, including R40. The backwards evolving show was outstanding.
Same here. I introduced my son to it and he became a pretty big fan. We drove up to Tampa from Ft. Lauderdale to see R40. Check this other video out that we made... th-cam.com/video/W99cgOahF5E/w-d-xo.html
BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the c clamp DOES NOT work for the 2014 model... beware!!!!!! you need a brake caliper tool or needle nose pliers to twist the cylinder back in...
True. Don't use a clamp. You will break the cylinder. Use a brake piston tool. It's well worth the $10 and you will be able to use it on multiple cars because they fit different size cylinders.
First of all the t-45 just happens to fit the 7 mm Allen head slider Bolt second of all do not and I repeat do not compress the Piston with a C-clamp use the correct tool which you can easily do at any Advance Auto under rental tool program the Piston needs to be screwed in not clampton you can do damage to the piston and ruin your emergency brakes not only that but ruined the caliper
THIS VIDEO IS NOT RIGHT YOU DO NOT SQUEEZE IN THE REAR CALIPER DO NOT DO THIS AT ALL. YOU HAFT TO TURN CLOCKWISE AS YOU ARE PUSHING IN EITHER WITH A SPECIAL TOOL OR YOU CAN USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO PERFORM THIS OPERATION. AGAIN DO NOT SQUEEZE NOTHING YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING. PLEASE IF YOU ARE GOING TO PUT OUT WRONG INFO PLEASE DON'T... GIVE THE RIGHT INFO OR NOT AT ALL. BY THE WAY I AM A ASE MECHANIC IN BREAKS.
You do realize you installed the pads on the wrong sides. The pad with the spring goes on the outside of the rotor. The one with the 2 pegs goes against the Piston. Which is why the Piston has 2 holes.
I'm afraid that's incorrect and could very well prove disastrous. You see, the only reason the piston head has two holes is for the purpose of re-seating it when installing new pads. These holes are only used with the specialized compression tool (needed/used for most modern rear disc brakes) which has two pins itself which fit like a key in order to turn the piston clockwise while it compresses back into the cylinder housing. This rotational movement of the piston is critical to the function for auto adjusting the emergency brake...Furthermore, the pad with the spring "does in fact" face the inside surface of the rotor......Be careful!
Daren Howard, excellent explanation. In addition, if this is the first time they’ve been replaced (as is the case with ours) you’ll notice that the factory has the spring on the inside, just to support your point.
@@mrich242424 Thank you sir. You know, some folks really have no business messing around with vehicle braking systems or any other mechanical components for that matter. In fact, when it comes to automobile mechanics, the majority shouldn't stray any further than topping off their washer fluid reservoirs.
+Donald Coleman --> if u r referring to the master cylinder under the hood, there is a little plastic cap on it which is where you fill it with break fluid. That cap is nothing more than a cover for the master cylinder. It is not made to hold back pressure. It won't do you much good to loosen the cap.
jakeguitar01 ,,, you never push that dirty fluid moisture and water back up into the master cylinder,,,, you open the bleeder and push that shit out,,,. Then you should bleed and drain all fluid out of the system and replace it,,,. Bat moisture and water gets hot it expands it puts the brakes on for you your brakes drag you burn your brakes up you use more gas,, you warp your rotors,,,
No mention made of using the proper tool for compressing the piston. Doing rear brakes doesn't work like front disc brakes. Google "disc brake wind back tool" which actually screws the piston in while compressing it, or, trash a caliper taking this dipshit for his word. See the 2 "dots" in the piston face? The tool fits in those to turn it.
I wouldn't let you work on my car Got so many things wrong hope you Don't work in a garage😱... Just some people should stay away from making videos Otter crap...
Wtf this is all total shit. Is not a Torx bit, it’s a 7mm and you’re supposed to turn a special bit on the piston and press at the same time. You’re gonna get air in the brakes when you open the bleeder! Don’t listen to this dude.
You also forgot to open the lid on your master cylinder, you cant just compress the piston on an abs car without doing so. You likely damaged seals in your master cylinder, lol indian pads are even worse than the Chinese ones and are nowhere near a halfway decent pad, they are junk, along with the aimco rotors, garbage, that brake job you did was horrible, you didn't even clean then add anti seize to the caliper sliders, if you don't know how to do brakes then don't. You will need to do it again soon and replace everything again.
Gooseworks Labs ,,, you are 100% right,,, but there ain't enough room to list all the things he done wrong,,, all the moisture and Water behind the piston and in the brake fluid,,,. The brakes were dragging before he took them off,,, they will be dragging,,, and burn up the pads and rotors in 6 months,,,, his fuel mileage will be shit,,, slide off the road in rain snow and ice,,,
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One of the best TH-cam how-to videos i have seen. Straight and to the point. All was very clear
De México bien
Except there are different type rear brakes cylinders. On my 2013 ford edge you can't use a C-Clamp. You must screw the cylinder back in using a brake piston tool.
I wouldn't say so. I mean the shoots are gr8, but the wheel hub wasn't clean from rust, the caliper bracket wasn't clean from rust (places where brake pads slides at), when a brake caliper cylinder was pushed back, the old worn out brake fluid was pushed back to ABS module, which can damage it - before you start working on brakes 1st thing you do it to losen brake bleeder screw!
Beside that the video was ok
And Most of it was WRONG!
You can't use a clamp on rear breaks... I have a 2013 escape and you need a special tool to fit into the 2 holes on master cylinder and turn it clock wise, it screws in... I just use a pair of needle nose and screwed the master cylinder in...
Mine isn’t screwing in when I turn it
You have to screw clockwise and press at the same time you are screwing it in. It takes a good amount of pressure while you are turning. Don't open the bleeder valve! It's aluminum and will strip/cross thread easily and you will have to replace the whole caliper.
plesase charlie showme how you made it.
Charlie Smith you're 100% correct. You cant just compress the rear caliper piston, you need special tool that rotates and compresses the piston. The video is misleading.
This video is misleading ppl say fuck me his pads are on backwards the spring on the top of the pad is for the outside the two lil pins on the other pad are for the inside @5:50 u can see
My favorite about all videos I have seen regarding this, no one mentions the issues with the factory lug nuts.
I used this as a basic guide to do the brakes on my C-MAX hybrid. I did need to rent a brake piston tool to push the piston back in. Judging by other comments it looks like a lot of others had to do it as well. Not sure how you got yours pushed in with just a c-clamp.
Exactly. I was just writing that about the rear piston. Theres a special tool for that. I couldn't get mine in with a C Clamp either so I had to purchase the tool set made for that.
When compressing the caliper piston, take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir. Take a paper towel and sort of crumple it and place it into the reservoir to absorb the fluid as the piston pushes fluid back into the system -- helps avoid an overflow.
Exactly 💯 % correct
Like how you did your video listing tools needed. Also the fact you actually show what it is you are doing
Thank you, I hope this video helped you out!
Caliper is a turn cylinder piston, need rear brake kit for that to compress smoothly, but good video👍
I’m surprised he didn’t know that!
Theres a special tool for the rear piston. Thats why there are those 2 holes in the piston. A C Clamp is really not the right tool to use on the rear piston.
First unscrew the master cylinder cap to release pressure. I Did not try the C clamp on the rear calipers but I did use a set of needle nose pliers and pressure behind them to rotate the slavr cylinder back down. Worked great. I found out to remove the caliper it’s a Allen tip #6 a T-45 didn’t work with mine. 2013 Ford Escape AWD 2.5L SE.
Nice video. Appreciate the clarity of view AND the tip about the caliper screws falling into that abyss. LOL
After reading comments, let me add the following observations:
1) ALWAYS have any parts store use your VIN to identify the correct parts for your vehicle.
I have one of the first 2013 Ford Escape SE 1.6L 4-Cyl Turbo to come off the line. At that time, according to Ford, this was the only model set up for towing; hence the Turbo. I believe the tow capacity is around 3,600 pounds, which mine handles easily since it's flat, mostly straight and has long distance visibility allowing me to drive with the gas instead of the brakes.
When putting in the exact information, including engine, instead of the VIN, every place I checked prices and Auto Zone, where I had to go locally, gave me the WRONG brake pads for the front!
ONLY the VIN number forced each system to point to the LARGER brake pads needed for towing. The same larger front pads are used on the 2.0L and AWD models for 2013-2016/19, according to various sites and DIY videos, including O'Reilly Auto Parts.
The VIN pulled up the exact same engine setup as input via the options for Make, Model, etc, but clearly the VIN is necessary to ensure the exact right parts, as I discovered when I went to hang the new pads.
Why? Maybe after 2013 Ford offered the same setup but NOT for towing, so they came with the smaller caliper and pads.
All I know is that in 2012, my setup was the only model listed as Tow-capable and all of the 1.6L Turbo models were setup the same way. After that, well, I suppose it must have made sense to Ford to offer the engine setup without the larger brakes. I would think that a few other differences should exist for towing, so that might have made it a cost/profit point for Ford.
Regardless... ALWAYS take your VIN with you. With USAA, my vehicles' VINs are listed on my insurance card, which you're supposed to have with you; I keep mine in my wallet and a digital copy on my cell phone... so there's an easy way so that you don't have to copy it onto a scrap of paper or your hand, etc., when you get to the store.
2) The #6 Allen vs T45 Torx
Mine uses the T45 Torx, so it will depend on your model and probably location of manufacturing.
I suggest having a short extension available when using sockets so that you avoid accidentally bashing any brake lines... AND having BOTH an Allen AND a Torx set available.
You'll use them for everything under the sun and I keep both the short sets and the extended sets on hand.
3) Rear Brake Piston
I picked up a dual set of brake piston compression tools on Amazon for around $30; made by Orion Mechanical Tools (OMT) as I recall. Two separate tool boxes arrived; one for Disc and one for Drum. They work like a charm.
The rear brake piston does in fact screw in, but that's not to say that you can't force it with a C-clamp which exerts greater force than the resistance of a lightly threaded piston meant to glide effortlessly for braking.
I'm not sure about the design difference from the front but it seems to be fairly consistent across all manufacturers since the Disc Kit contains various sizes for nearly every manufacturer.
One comment mentioned the Emergency Brake mechanism, so it makes sense that a screw-style piston is used.
I recommend that regardless of method, that you do NOT have the Emergency Brake engaged while working on the rear brakes. I'm certain that if that's part of the reason for the screw system, that you risk even greater damage trying to screw or push that piston back while it's technically "locked" in the extended position.
4) When retaining the caliper, clean with Brakeleen or similar brake parts cleaner and then apply brake silicone gel to the hanger ends of both the caliper and the pads so that they slide.
Before pushing the piston in, it's recommended to clean the extended portion and lube with the brake silicone gel all of the way around in order to help protect that expandable outer boot.
Apply the same silicone lubricant/protector to the area around the rose clips on the front piston pads AND to the back of all other pads. This will help prevent rust, allow smooth movement and prevent noise.
This is NOT the same as applying Anti-Squeal, which might still be necessary these days.
5) Based on Professional videos, you need a Torque wrench.
As I recall, 31 FOOT-Pounds torque on the Caliper screws, whether #6 Allen or T45 Torx.
AND the Tire Lugs get torqued to 129 FOOT-Pounds.
Again, double check those numbers before torquing.
AND I suggest having a 1/2-to-3/8 socket adapter for torquing.
Larger torque means a 1/2" drive, however, most Allen and Torx sets seem to be the 3/8 socket variety... thus the need for an adapter.
Auto Zone had a 4-adapter pack which includes everything you'll probably ever need, including that 1/2-to-3/8 adapter, for $12.99; probably not much cheaper on Amazon AND it was right there.
6) Support the caliper.
Wire Brake Hanger or stout Velcro strap or 550 cord....
Or, since Auto Zone was out of hangers, I turned my front brake pad box on its tall end and placed the caliper on that.
Worked perfectly.
Avoid strain on the brake lines... ESPECIALLY when pushing the piston back in!
If you choose not to open the bleeder valve, then SLOWLY compress the piston to avoid creating too much pressure by compressing faster than the system can handle the forced back flow.
7) ALWAYS pump up the brakes after any brake work.
8) FINAL STEP: ALWAYS check the brake fluid after any brake work and pump-up on the brakes to make sure that the level is correct.
9) Break-in your new Brakes
It is recommended to break in new pads by driving and REPEATEDLY decelerating from 50 MPH to 30 MPH, allowing the brakes time to cool between each braking.
This is NOT hard braking!
AVOID hard braking during the first 500 miles on your new pads.
Advice: don't do this during rush hour or use a winding road. An empty highway late night or early early morning is the safest.
If the police pull you over, calmly explain what you are doing and that this is recommended by Professionals as the best way to ensure your brakes function with peak performance when needed.
You might even be educating the officer who might even appreciate the tip... which he or she can Google to verify that you're not spinning some bizarre yarn.
Be Safe.
For anyone doing these brakes that caliper can be spun clockwise with a needle nose pliers placed in two divots no need to compress with a c clamp
Thank you for making this video, Great job! The Ford 2012 Focus looks almost identical to this and my rotors were stuck on like yours and seeing you remove yours help me remove mine.
When you squeeze the piston on the caliper, you might want to open the cap on the brake resivor to relive the pressure, pack some rags around the resivor to catch any fluid that may leak out.
You would be advised to clean the slides for the brake pads so they do not stick and cause the pads to wear prematurely and also turn the piston in to reset the emergency brake .
super important
Except that on this case the rear brake caliper is a twist or turn in piston the fronts you use the c clamp.
Great help! Thanks for the excellent video.
Thanks! Great video, helped me a lot
You need a square brake tool for that style caliper which twists in clock wise otherwise you will break the caliper. By using that C-clamp you literally broke the calipers
You don't use a C - clamp to spread the calaper , you need a calaper kit to twist it down.
Excellent demonstration, thank you very much!
Hmm wrong about the C clamp. You need a special tool to fit into the two holes on caliper slide holes, Then you Screw them in otherwise you break the caliper. Second you didnt clean the area around the rotor hub, ensuring rust buildup for next rotor replacement. Also you didnt wire brush and then lube the brake pad grooves. Its also a good idea to clean and lube the caliper slider pins for smooth operation. Do it right or dont do it at all a wise man said once :)
Be Sure !. If over time ....You added break fluid as the breaks wore !. Be sure to take a look at the oil revisor !.. Or you will overfill it !. As you compress the break Caliber !..
I have always taken the cap off before compressing the pistons.
Putting the car vehicle brake maintenance mode does not require the piston to be rotated back in. Also, did you buy new brake caliper bracket bolts? Do they have loctite on the threads?
Thanks for taking the time to make and edit this. As usual, community effort FTW!
You should use the correct piston compressing tool hence the 2 holes in your caliper piston for that tool
Your helper is a great asset and not as you say , a knuckle head. thanks
You can't use a C Clamp to compress the piston. It has to be turned with that special piston compress tool.
DO NOT use the C Clamp, it will ruin the caliper. These must be wound back in with the tool to do it with. Also, T45 is not the correct tool, it is 7mm allen head.
Thank you. A lot less ppl with broken T45's now. Lol... maybe 😆
Really good instructional video.
Tonmoy Kabiraj ,,, no it's not,,, everything he did was totally wrong,,, he's a total jackass,,,. Not one correct thing,,,. !!!
Nice job. Well dove. Keep it up. Very good.
+HELLO ---> thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped...
Nice video
Thanks
you saved me man thanks👏👏
Is that rusty area on outside of the old rotor an indication of a bad caliper or bad slide pins, I keep having this issue with my 14’ Focus st rear brake rotors, I’ve changed them twice and I’ve followed the process 100% and one side is perfect and now I’m getting a small 1/4” area on the outside of the rotor where I’m getting rust build up and I know the pad is contacting that area but not enough to take the rust off when I drive in salt or it rains a lot, my new rear brakes were perfect till the salt hit, I greased the sliders really good and I cleaned the slide brakes of debris And rust
Is this a caliper issue?
Only 37k on the car and back brakes have been on maybe 1-2k
I came here for a tools list before I start. I’ll probably rent the caliper tool from the parts store.
Nothing worse than being in the middle of a job and your transportation is on jack stands! 😂
Good video
Nice Rush shirt, though you shouldn’t wear such fine threads for grunt work. I guess that’s why they call you the working man. As others have mentioned, there’s a number of notable mistakes/issues with this video. Good overview of the general process, but off on some important details.
Really should have cleaned the hub and added a bit of graphite grease before place the new rotor on. Also, everyone should know rear calipers need their pistons to be rotated for compression and DO NOT OPEN THE BLEED SCREW TO COMPRESS THE PISTON!
Alwayzsmilin ,,, you're wrong,, you do open the bleeder and turn the piston in,, you do not want to push dirty fluid into the master cylinder that's what blows the seal in them,,, you want to bleed the system completely new fluid,,, there's moisture in water behind that piston,,, there's water in that brake fluid that rust the brake lines out blows the master cylinder out freezes up the Piston the caliper,, !!! I take that piston out and clean it and the boar,,,
Super helpful, thank you!
Im baffled to how the caliper pistons went back in without screwing them in. The emergency brake is in the caliper. Its made to lock outward and they have to be screwed inward. So there must be something totally wrong with that caliper to fail like that. And though your video was well done You should always clean off the points where the pads sit on the bracket. and if you really need to use a bigger hammer ..lol
they didn't you missed the jump cut when they put the caliper back in. they had to figure a way to jurry-rig it.
It's NOT a T-45 torx on 2013-2016 Ford Escape! Use a 7 mm allen head.
dachicagoan my 2013 escape isn’t torx either so you obviously don’t know everything like you think you do
@dachicagoan can confirm, its a 7mm allen head.
@dachicagoan I can verify it is a 7 mm Allen head if you're using the original Ford Motorcraft part A T45 Torx just happens to fit if you look at the actual screw itself you will notice it is not star-shaped it has Allen slot to it I have a 2013 Ford Escape all wheel drive identical brake system and parts to what this gentleman is using and I also recommend do not use a clamp to clamp the piston in you can strip the emergency brake threads in the piston
Maybe good ol Ford used what ever they had on hand that day or changed it...? Would that superuser anyone? Mine used a Torx45. Ford Suck!
Used a 7mm on my mother in laws car today but i couldnt get the caliper to compress by turning so im having her pick up a new one to see if that one is just broken
You never open the bleeder to push in the piston you turn and push on the piston is well go back in the booster the way it should.
when you sped up video beating wonder how long that was! I have used PB Blaster and lil wd40 been beating for long time!! Bought to get small sledge hammer out! The say use a rubber sledge or wooden? But mine rotors on back been on since 2014, still had brake pads that said Ford on them Ha Ha!
It took a while, more than I'd like to admit.
Why don’t you show us the compressing of your piston and the brake bleed method on your 2013 Escape
Was you having issues I'm having that very issue right now
There are some steps in this video that are wrong and some missing. Good video for the most part but please read comments for other tidbits
Open the master cylinder and as you compress, do so slowly.
Someone told me about this video...PEOPLE LOOK AT YOUR BRAKE PADS!!! The pad with the SPRING goes on the FRONT of the rotor.... There is a 2 holes on the piston... And there are 2 tabs on the back of the one pad... The 2 tabs go in the 2 holes in the piston...Soooooooooooo the one one that goes on the BACK of the rotor, is NOT the one with the spring....
The Spring on the OUTSIDE of the rotor, is what holds tension of the spring that goes threw the caliper its self...
Don't use the C-clamp for compressing the piston for the rear break. You must use the compression tool that turns the piston clockwise to compress. Suggestion to use the bleeding outlet is very wrong! I suggest you watch other video how to do it right. They are many missing steps in this video.
It's a 19mm not a frigging 3/4! and don't say it don't matter cuz it does!
Thanks for the video.
Thats a 7mm Allen. Not a 45T. You can use a T45 in a pinch but otherwise you could ruin the T45 and the pin itself.
Thanks for the tip
My caliber is not closing back it's not compressing it's not I can't put it back on when I add the new brakes pads
c clamp nooooo they twist in .... look here... Rear Brakes 2013 Ford Escape Turn in Caliper don't miss up your car..
what brakes are good for the front
+Carrie G .... Hi. When you buy brakes at an auto parts store, you will see that they have like 3 grades-- (cheap, middle, expensive). I don't recommend the cheap ones as they usually squeal and leave a lot of brake dust all over your wheels. I have never had a problem with the middle brakes, but if you are a stickler for high price, thinking the more expensive the better, then buy the high end brakes or get OEM brakes at the dealership. Just make sure u avoid the cheap ones.
jakeguitar01 thanks
Instead of opening bleeder you should unscrew the lid on master cylinder when compressing the caliper.
+Kortnie Foll Hi. I actually tried that first and it didn't work.
Good video , but you did not say any thing about winding the piston back into the caliper! I bent my big c-clamp trying to push that piston in! My neighbor came over and he told me about rewinding the piston.
You are right. This was an oversight. I am going to annotate the video so people don't get confused at that point..
,,, you always open the bleeder first,,, you do not want to push that moisture water and contaminants up to the master cylinder,,,,. His brakes were dragging to start with they'll be dragging and burnt up within 6 months again,,, slide pins should have been wire brushed in high heat grease put on them,,,, anti seize on the bolts,,,,. Each and every step he done was totally wrong,,,,. !!! Brake fluid should have been flushed and drained,,,. !!!!
Rick simpson its easy to say open the bleeder first and flush all the fluid out but up here in northern ny u dont touch bleeder s unless u have to. With the salt and corrosion 90% of the time they end up breaking off and turning into a mess and costomers dont wanna pay for a new caliper if the bleeder breaks. Nor do they want to pay for a brake flush. I agree he skiped alot of crucial steps when it comes to clean up and lubing and properly spinning pistons with the tool but i have done 1000s of break jobs and have never had one issue with compressing s piston without opening a bleeder. If the boot on the caliper is good and theres no leaks then there is no moisture in there to push back into the master. The fluid may be dark but it all mixes together anyways. Its a sealed sytem there is no moisture in it. If there is theres a problem. I take the caliper slides out and grease them and i also sand blast and lube the brakets in the spots where the pads sit and slide. Up here in ny u dont touch bleeders unless u have to. Watch eric o from south main auto do a brake job. Hes up here in the rust belt and he does them exactly like i do. Never had an issue.
Theres a special tool for the rear piston. Thats why there are those 2 holes in the piston. A C Clamp is really not the right tool to use on the rear piston. And NUCKLEHEAD??
The C clamp method is so much better than buying a compression tool
For sure! Glad you enjoyed the video!
As there were problems with uneven wear of pads, so they will remain. No cleaning, no female. The piston of the support is not pressed, but is screwed. I wouldn 't take this man 's example of replacement pads. Work in the empty.
Nice R40 shirt.
Yep. That was probably the last time that some of us lucky people will ever see RUSH. With any luck, maybe in 5 years we will see one last farewell tour, but the way they were talking, its unlikely. It's the end of an era we are experiencing, my friend....
Geddy seemed positive, but Alex's health, and Neil's desire to stop I think have brought them to an end. I'm grateful to have been able to introduce my boys to them, sharing several shows, including R40. The backwards evolving show was outstanding.
Same here. I introduced my son to it and he became a pretty big fan. We drove up to Tampa from Ft. Lauderdale to see R40. Check this other video out that we made... th-cam.com/video/W99cgOahF5E/w-d-xo.html
This guy doesn' know what he's doing!
BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the c clamp DOES NOT work for the 2014 model... beware!!!!!! you need a brake caliper tool or needle nose pliers to twist the cylinder back in...
True. Don't use a clamp. You will break the cylinder. Use a brake piston tool. It's well worth the $10 and you will be able to use it on multiple cars because they fit different size cylinders.
You can rent them from auto parts stores as well.
jakeguitar01, well, you can rent one. Free of cost, if you returned in same condition. Any Auto Zone ir Advance Auto parts stores.
Needle nose pliers? Wtf. You need to turn and put pressure, needle nose pliers will get you no where.
My 2015 is a 7mm Allen bolt not torx.
First of all the t-45 just happens to fit the 7 mm Allen head slider Bolt second of all do not and I repeat do not compress the Piston with a C-clamp use the correct tool which you can easily do at any Advance Auto under rental tool program the Piston needs to be screwed in not clampton you can do damage to the piston and ruin your emergency brakes not only that but ruined the caliper
THIS VIDEO IS NOT RIGHT YOU DO NOT SQUEEZE IN THE REAR CALIPER DO NOT DO THIS AT ALL. YOU HAFT TO TURN CLOCKWISE AS YOU ARE PUSHING IN EITHER WITH A SPECIAL TOOL OR YOU CAN USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO PERFORM THIS OPERATION. AGAIN DO NOT SQUEEZE NOTHING YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING. PLEASE IF YOU ARE GOING TO PUT OUT WRONG INFO PLEASE DON'T... GIVE THE RIGHT INFO OR NOT AT ALL. BY THE WAY I AM A ASE MECHANIC IN BREAKS.
You do realize you installed the pads on the wrong sides. The pad with the spring goes on the outside of the rotor. The one with the 2 pegs goes against the Piston. Which is why the Piston has 2 holes.
I'm afraid that's incorrect and could very well prove disastrous. You see, the only reason the piston head has two holes is for the purpose of re-seating it when installing new pads. These holes are only used with the specialized compression tool (needed/used for most modern rear disc brakes) which has two pins itself which fit like a key in order to turn the piston clockwise while it compresses back into the cylinder housing. This rotational movement of the piston is critical to the function for auto adjusting the emergency brake...Furthermore, the pad with the spring "does in fact" face the inside surface of the rotor......Be careful!
Daren Howard, excellent explanation. In addition, if this is the first time they’ve been replaced (as is the case with ours) you’ll notice that the factory has the spring on the inside, just to support your point.
@@mrich242424 Thank you sir. You know, some folks really have no business messing around with vehicle braking systems or any other mechanical components for that matter. In fact, when it comes to automobile mechanics, the majority shouldn't stray any further than topping off their washer fluid reservoirs.
Why not just relieve the fluid pressure
+Donald Coleman --> if u r referring to the master cylinder under the hood, there is a little plastic cap on it which is where you fill it with break fluid. That cap is nothing more than a cover for the master cylinder. It is not made to hold back pressure. It won't do you much good to loosen the cap.
jakeguitar01 ,,, you never push that dirty fluid moisture and water back up into the master cylinder,,,, you open the bleeder and push that shit out,,,. Then you should bleed and drain all fluid out of the system and replace it,,,. Bat moisture and water gets hot it expands it puts the brakes on for you your brakes drag you burn your brakes up you use more gas,, you warp your rotors,,,
This guy don’t know what he’s doing at all
I would turn the piston in couse if you dont youre gonna need a new piston!!!!!!
Thank you. You are right. Next time around, I will turn the piston in, using the tool.
Don’t use a C Clamp on that
No mention made of using the proper tool for compressing the piston. Doing rear brakes doesn't work like front disc brakes. Google "disc brake wind back tool" which actually screws the piston in while compressing it, or, trash a caliper taking this dipshit for his word. See the 2 "dots" in the piston face? The tool fits in those to turn it.
Open the break fluid resovior knuckle head
My question is for ford. Why are the bleeder valves the lowest part of the caliper.? Wtf is wrong with yal.???
You should honestly delete this how to. You got every single step wrong I’m honestly surprised that your rear brakes even worked after this....
Do not follow this video, it is totally wrong. This video should be taken down.
I wouldn't let you work on my car Got so many things wrong hope you Don't work in a garage😱... Just some people should stay away from making videos Otter crap...
I cant wait for him to make a video on removing coil spring.
Wtf this is all total shit. Is not a Torx bit, it’s a 7mm and you’re supposed to turn a special bit on the piston and press at the same time. You’re gonna get air in the brakes when you open the bleeder! Don’t listen to this dude.
Terrible video this guy needs to stay away from fixing cars
Totally wrong,,, every step of the way,,, watch about 10 videos from somebody that knows what they're doing,,,
You also forgot to open the lid on your master cylinder, you cant just compress the piston on an abs car without doing so. You likely damaged seals in your master cylinder, lol indian pads are even worse than the Chinese ones and are nowhere near a halfway decent pad, they are junk, along with the aimco rotors, garbage, that brake job you did was horrible, you didn't even clean then add anti seize to the caliper sliders, if you don't know how to do brakes then don't. You will need to do it again soon and replace everything again.
Gooseworks Labs ,,, you are 100% right,,, but there ain't enough room to list all the things he done wrong,,, all the moisture and Water behind the piston and in the brake fluid,,,. The brakes were dragging before he took them off,,, they will be dragging,,, and burn up the pads and rotors in 6 months,,,, his fuel mileage will be shit,,, slide off the road in rain snow and ice,,,
You didn't do any drum brakes on this video just rotors smh
My 2015 is a 7mm Allen bolt not torx.