Even though I’m not planning on physically doing any of these procedures myself, I found your video quite educational as well as easy to follow. I’m a seventy-one year old senior having ABS/VSA/BRAKE dash warning icons show up on a FWD 2006 Honda Pilot EX-L. My brakes feel totally fine, diagnostic code unfortunately reads 81.1 ABS Control Unit Failure on a vehicle that merely has 62,000 miles. Research shows very rare ABS module would go bad as usually last the lifetime of vehicle. Honda dealership performed diagnostic test and immediately wanted to sell me a new ABS unit which I believe was quoted at $2600 just for the part. I asked if he attempted to clear (or recalibrate the system) the code removing dash warning signs of which he had not at that point…dah 😳. Mechanic stated there is a neutralization procedure he could perform at which point I sat back down awaiting the results. Walla…cleared code & dash icons gone however he said all might return hence replacement necessary. Drove car for two days then unfortunately dash warning signs returned. Interestingly a mobile mechanic tried this procedure: turn key to on/off position rapidly 3x’s then start car and dash icons go off. 🚨 Does anyone know why this is? My mobile mechanic thinks it might have to do with starter/voltage draws/electrical causing erroneous tripping of VSA/ABS/BRAKE dash warnings. His diagnostic test only listed code 81.1 as above, no wheel sensor codes, etc. Could there be a wiring harness issue as well? I’d surely appreciate anyone’s thoughts before possibly paying for an expensive OEM Honda module. 🚙
@ - Honda Dealership can not order ABS Module due to age of vehicle. I recently readdressed this issue questioning possibility of wiring harness being tested, if a wire leading to ABS Module might be damaged or loose. Mechanic said it could take several hours of labor fees to check. Not sure what to do at this point. 🤷🏻♀️
@@lindagolden9892I used a multimeter to check to see if the TCS relay was good and the TCS module that is located on the ABS module and the ABS module were both good so it's a wiring issue mine. It looks like the main fuse box was overloaded somehow because it looks a little fried I'm trying to figure out how I can find someone to diagnose which wire sections are bad or if it's just the fuse box I don't think it's the computer but it could be. For now I have to retrain myself to pump the brakes when I am stopping . The TCS does not matter for safe driving, but the ABS not working is important. With older cars without ABS, we pump the brakes so you don't lock up the wheels and skid. With abs you stomp and steer stop and steer. You're not supposed to pump the brakes on an ABS because it will disengage it, but if it's already disengaged you must pump the brakes
I feel one thumb up is nowhere near enough for how helpful this video is. Here are 20 more thumbs up. I take it you are placing the jumper cable clip on the part of the cable where the insulation has rubbed off and exposed the wire
Thank you for sharing your videos. I got a problem with one car and this is helping me a lot to check ithe way. Do you teach the way that you show in channel? Thank you and God bless you. My friend
Thanks 😊 very helpful video. I have the rear rigth abs light...changed the sensor and reset and still appears 🤔. I'm going to try your method before the conclusion of the abs module. Thanks again
Me gusta tu informacion,gracias. I like your info . Thank. I hope help me up,before there was not the problem but I replace all the brake lines,metal and rubber,front huds with sensors and harness ABS LIGHTS IS ON
Very helpful! How can I test to make sure the abs module is putting out through the entire harness to the plug? Do I just probe across the ends while it's unplugged? What voltage should I be getting?
Very useful video !!! I have a speed sensor open or short circuit 😢 Hoping this vid and direction will help troubleshoot and find the issue. One Q , when you tested with the meter for voltage, does the car ignition need to be ON ?
Good question. When you're testing for a short to ground the ignition does not need to be on but testing for a short to power the ignition should be on. That way power is being supplied to whatever it's shorted to.
Great job Robert! I'm really impressed with your explanation. I would like to know whether or not, the speed sensor receptacle on the hub could be a possible cause of the ABS light ON?
Good question! Yes, the tone ring can cause an abs light. The easiest way to spot this is with a scan tool that can graph 📈 data. At slow speeds you will see the signal coming in and out like a pattern every time the bad spot runs across the sensor. Metal tone rings may also be visually inspected through the abs sensor whole but magnetic tone rings are different and may appear good to the eyes but be still be faulty, so a scan tool is best with magnetic tone rings.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Good explanation sir. The tone ring is in good condition and the harness was replaced, but the ABS stays ON. Can the bearing hub which carries the sensor receptacle be responsible for this fault?
Nice video. I had both abs and the exclamation light screaming all of a sudden few days ago as I was about to leave the house. I found food crumbs and stuff near the wheel. I'm almost 100% certain rats did this. I found no wires cut. The scanner says no communication with abs module. Unfortunately, a stubborn screw, idk if it was always there or the local mechanic accidentally put it there, it just refuses to come out. So, I'm unable to remove the air filter housing to access the abs module. Will try and do something about it but I do not have the wiring diagrams of the vehicle. Where could I find the wiring diagrams for the polo 6r model?
I have 3 wheel speed sensor codes and a c0131...i really dont understand the c0131 but im assuming it has somethint to do with the brake pressure readings....if so, i would have to troubleshoot and test everything that could cause bad pressure OR bad pressure READINGS...So electrical issues as well as failing components (which i dont believe is the case because i have no issue with brakes except one single time for 5 minutes my brakes stuck)
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I just wish I had more information about the system and how this code is set...then I can use my own common sense as far as what to test/how to test it etc... If brake pressure discrepancies cause this then I would imagine anything that causes a brake pressure issue could trip this code such as brake booster, master cylinder, etc
When testing for a short to ground, you’ve got the black lead on the short, is that correct? If so, where do i put the black wire without knowing if there is a short to ground? Thanks
The black lead on the short is not part of the test. Just part of the experiment set up. On your voltmeter you want it set to ohms. With the harness unplugged on both ends one lead goes to a good body ground (or negative battery post). The other lead probes the harness/connector pin. Any number on the meter means there is a short, you want it to say OL. When checking ohms (continuity) the harness needs to be unplugged on both ends. And it doesn't matter if your probes are flipped/swapped, it works either way. Hope that helps 👍
@@GMRS4Both methods work. I'll have to look at my video again I forget which way I showed. Ohms will show continuity or "contact" with a ground or power source. If you are using volts for a short to ground you want the red on the positive battery post and the black probing the connector (unplugged). In this case you are looking for 0v. Anything above zero is a short. With everything unplugged the wire should neither have voltage nor continuity to power or ground. Two ways to peel the avocado 👍. Good question
The multimeter will only read how many volts are present. So even if your negative lead is hooked to battery negative if the power you are measuring is 5 volts then your multimeter will read up to 5 volts. It won't hurt the circuit. When both sides of the harness are disconnected there shouldn't be any voltage on the connector. If there is voltage then you have a short somewhere. Running 12 volts through the wires with everything unplugged won't hurt the circuit because there's very little current flowing through it. But both sides of the harness need to be disconnected that's important.
Purchasing a good shop manual isn't a bad idea. Especially if you will be doing other repairs as well. Usually there will be diagrams in the back. The best of the best for reliable wiring diagrams is to go to the manufacturer's website and pay for a short subscription. For Volkswagen the official site is: erwin.vw.com You'll find it under "Service Information"
i want photo of map abs chrysler voyager model 2000 because lamp abs on front right weel sinsor i change the sinsor twice but the lamb abs still on please help
Question: At the 5:30 mark, the ground was placed on the negative battery terminal and the yellow wire. How can a solid ground be formed if the wire is insulated? I'm not much of an electrician lol
I peeled back the insulation to simulate a compromised wire. For example if the wire has been rubbing on the frame eventually the insulation will rub away and now the bare wire is being grounded to the frame. But you are correct, if the insulation is in tact then the wire inside is protected 👍
The next step is a strong visual inspection of all areas that have the potential for the short. Any location where the sensor wiring is bundled with other wires. I've also seen harness connectors corrode and bridge two pins together causing a short. Finding the location of the short is not easy and the wiring harness will need to be opened up at some point. You can also try pulling fuses until the short goes away. Then look at a wiring diagram and figure out where the two circuits share the same path.
Reading comments i think confusion with red goes where.. and black to where. I think i picked up the theory...and is it this? At 6:00 minutes the jumper for checking shorts comes down to this. A short to ground is NOT hooking up a ground. The wire harness is providing the ground. All you are doing is sending volts from the Battery via RED LEAD on Volt Meter thru meter and into the harness by black lead. The connector is disconnected where it normally would complete the ground, thus ZERO VOLTS, unless harness defect is making the ground, Short To Ground If harness is disconected at the wheel for testing... then no volts will make it back to battery ground unless it is SHORTING TO GROUND. to complete circuit through volt meter.
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Even though I’m not planning on physically doing any of these procedures myself, I found your video quite educational as well as easy to follow. I’m a seventy-one year old senior having ABS/VSA/BRAKE dash warning icons show up on a FWD 2006 Honda Pilot EX-L. My brakes feel totally fine, diagnostic code unfortunately reads 81.1 ABS Control Unit Failure on a vehicle that merely has 62,000 miles. Research shows very rare ABS module would go bad as usually last the lifetime of vehicle. Honda dealership performed diagnostic test and immediately wanted to sell me a new ABS unit which I believe was quoted at $2600 just for the part. I asked if he attempted to clear (or recalibrate the system) the code removing dash warning signs of which he had not at that point…dah 😳. Mechanic stated there is a neutralization procedure he could perform at which point I sat back down awaiting the results. Walla…cleared code & dash icons gone however he said all might return hence replacement necessary. Drove car for two days then unfortunately dash warning signs returned. Interestingly a mobile mechanic tried this procedure: turn key to on/off position rapidly 3x’s then start car and dash icons go off. 🚨 Does anyone know why this is? My mobile mechanic thinks it might have to do with starter/voltage draws/electrical causing erroneous tripping of VSA/ABS/BRAKE dash warnings. His diagnostic test only listed code 81.1 as above, no wheel sensor codes, etc. Could there be a wiring harness issue as well? I’d surely appreciate anyone’s thoughts before possibly paying for an expensive OEM Honda module. 🚙
I would love to know the answer to your question. Did you ever get it fixed?
@ - Honda Dealership can not order ABS Module due to age of vehicle. I recently readdressed this issue questioning possibility of wiring harness being tested, if a wire leading to ABS Module might be damaged or loose. Mechanic said it could take several hours of labor fees to check. Not sure what to do at this point. 🤷🏻♀️
@@lindagolden9892I used a multimeter to check to see if the TCS relay was good and the TCS module that is located on the ABS module and the ABS module were both good so it's a wiring issue mine.
It looks like the main fuse box was overloaded somehow because it looks a little fried I'm trying to figure out how I can find someone to diagnose which wire sections are bad or if it's just the fuse box I don't think it's the computer but it could be.
For now I have to retrain myself to pump the brakes when I am stopping . The TCS does not matter for safe driving, but the ABS not working is important. With older cars without ABS, we pump the brakes so you don't lock up the wheels and skid. With abs you stomp and steer stop and steer.
You're not supposed to pump the brakes on an ABS because it will disengage it, but if it's already disengaged you must pump the brakes
I feel one thumb up is nowhere near enough for how helpful this video is. Here are 20 more thumbs up. I take it you are placing the jumper cable clip on the part of the cable where the insulation has rubbed off and exposed the wire
Thanks Joe 👍. Yep, the clip was to simulate a rub through wire causing short to power or short to ground.
Fantastic job bro you actually helped me understand what i was having a hard time with
Great video, just what I was looking for.
Thank you for sharing your videos. I got a problem with one car and this is helping me a lot to check ithe way. Do you teach the way that you show in channel?
Thank you and God bless you. My friend
Very well done ! Thankyou for your time ..
This is so helpful. Thank you bro!
Thanks 😊 very helpful video. I have the rear rigth abs light...changed the sensor and reset and still appears 🤔. I'm going to try your method before the conclusion of the abs module. Thanks again
Me gusta tu informacion,gracias. I like your info . Thank. I hope help me up,before there was not the problem but I replace all the brake lines,metal and rubber,front huds with sensors and harness
ABS LIGHTS IS ON
This is a super helpful video. Thank you!
Very helpful! How can I test to make sure the abs module is putting out through the entire harness to the plug? Do I just probe across the ends while it's unplugged? What voltage should I be getting?
I need to know the voltage as well
Very useful video !!! I have a speed sensor open or short circuit 😢
Hoping this vid and direction will help troubleshoot and find the issue.
One Q , when you tested with the meter for voltage, does the car ignition need to be ON ?
Good question. When you're testing for a short to ground the ignition does not need to be on but testing for a short to power the ignition should be on. That way power is being supplied to whatever it's shorted to.
Great video Robert, I'm new in your channel, and I like very much,cheers from Ontario ca
Do you know if the codes come directly from the ABS module or from the computer on a 2004 Honda Accord?
Simple and clear. Thanks
You're welcome 👍
Great job Robert! I'm really impressed with your explanation. I would like to know whether or not, the speed sensor receptacle on the hub could be a possible cause of the ABS light ON?
Good question! Yes, the tone ring can cause an abs light. The easiest way to spot this is with a scan tool that can graph 📈 data. At slow speeds you will see the signal coming in and out like a pattern every time the bad spot runs across the sensor. Metal tone rings may also be visually inspected through the abs sensor whole but magnetic tone rings are different and may appear good to the eyes but be still be faulty, so a scan tool is best with magnetic tone rings.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Good explanation sir. The tone ring is in good condition and the harness was replaced, but the ABS stays ON. Can the bearing hub which carries the sensor receptacle be responsible for this fault?
@@reaganekoh3082 What kind of car are you working on? What code comes up with a scan tool?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive 2009 Toyota Camry LE (Code reads C1333)
Very nice tutorial, thank you.
You're welcome 👍
very clear explanation
awesome...
Good job sharing
Nice video. I had both abs and the exclamation light screaming all of a sudden few days ago as I was about to leave the house. I found food crumbs and stuff near the wheel. I'm almost 100% certain rats did this. I found no wires cut. The scanner says no communication with abs module.
Unfortunately, a stubborn screw, idk if it was always there or the local mechanic accidentally put it there, it just refuses to come out. So, I'm unable to remove the air filter housing to access the abs module. Will try and do something about it but I do not have the wiring diagrams of the vehicle. Where could I find the wiring diagrams for the polo 6r model?
Thanks advice guys
Tanks bro🎉
I have 3 wheel speed sensor codes and a c0131...i really dont understand the c0131 but im assuming it has somethint to do with the brake pressure readings....if so, i would have to troubleshoot and test everything that could cause bad pressure OR bad pressure READINGS...So electrical issues as well as failing components (which i dont believe is the case because i have no issue with brakes except one single time for 5 minutes my brakes stuck)
What car is it?
@ValleyMobileAutomotive 2008 chevy trailblazer 4x4
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I just wish I had more information about the system and how this code is set...then I can use my own common sense as far as what to test/how to test it etc...
If brake pressure discrepancies cause this then I would imagine anything that causes a brake pressure issue could trip this code such as brake booster, master cylinder, etc
When testing for a short to ground, you’ve got the black lead on the short, is that correct? If so, where do i put the black wire without knowing if there is a short to ground? Thanks
The black lead on the short is not part of the test. Just part of the experiment set up. On your voltmeter you want it set to ohms. With the harness unplugged on both ends one lead goes to a good body ground (or negative battery post). The other lead probes the harness/connector pin. Any number on the meter means there is a short, you want it to say OL. When checking ohms (continuity) the harness needs to be unplugged on both ends. And it doesn't matter if your probes are flipped/swapped, it works either way. Hope that helps 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive helps massively! Fully appreciate the reply! Thanks!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive actually for checking short to ground, do I not want multimeter set to volts (dc)?
One lead , black, in com port and the other in v and ohms port, but reader set to volts? Make sense? 🤣
@@GMRS4Both methods work. I'll have to look at my video again I forget which way I showed. Ohms will show continuity or "contact" with a ground or power source. If you are using volts for a short to ground you want the red on the positive battery post and the black probing the connector (unplugged). In this case you are looking for 0v. Anything above zero is a short. With everything unplugged the wire should neither have voltage nor continuity to power or ground. Two ways to peel the avocado 👍. Good question
2007 Buick LaCrosse C0095 code. Right rear selinoid.
How to check the. Positive and negative..panel...I check mine only have ground...
Can test the wire using 12v on a 5v circuit? Cause I have that problem, but it uses 5v reference.
The multimeter will only read how many volts are present. So even if your negative lead is hooked to battery negative if the power you are measuring is 5 volts then your multimeter will read up to 5 volts. It won't hurt the circuit. When both sides of the harness are disconnected there shouldn't be any voltage on the connector. If there is voltage then you have a short somewhere. Running 12 volts through the wires with everything unplugged won't hurt the circuit because there's very little current flowing through it. But both sides of the harness need to be disconnected that's important.
Hello. Please tell me, for vw golf 6 1.4 tsi 2009, where can I find the diagram module abs?.. Thanks and just subbed to your channel
Purchasing a good shop manual isn't a bad idea. Especially if you will be doing other repairs as well. Usually there will be diagrams in the back. The best of the best for reliable wiring diagrams is to go to the manufacturer's website and pay for a short subscription. For Volkswagen the official site is:
erwin.vw.com
You'll find it under "Service Information"
nice video
Hey thanks Jacob 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I have toyota rush with ABS on, code C1272, low output voltage left handside abs, whats should i do
@@jacobndunguru5584 It looks like the Rush is the same as Toyota Rav4 here in the states. What year is it?
I HAVE PROBLEM PLEASE WRITTE.12 v on black wire to esp hidraulik pump and on red wire no voltage...tottaly opposite what is problem?
i want photo of map abs chrysler voyager model 2000 because lamp abs on front right weel sinsor
i change the sinsor twice but the lamb abs still on
please help
Question: At the 5:30 mark, the ground was placed on the negative battery terminal and the yellow wire. How can a solid ground be formed if the wire is insulated? I'm not much of an electrician lol
I peeled back the insulation to simulate a compromised wire. For example if the wire has been rubbing on the frame eventually the insulation will rub away and now the bare wire is being grounded to the frame. But you are correct, if the insulation is in tact then the wire inside is protected 👍
How do u find the location on the wire for short to power?
The next step is a strong visual inspection of all areas that have the potential for the short. Any location where the sensor wiring is bundled with other wires. I've also seen harness connectors corrode and bridge two pins together causing a short. Finding the location of the short is not easy and the wiring harness will need to be opened up at some point. You can also try pulling fuses until the short goes away. Then look at a wiring diagram and figure out where the two circuits share the same path.
Reading comments i think confusion with red goes where.. and black to where.
I think i picked up the theory...and is it this?
At 6:00 minutes the jumper for checking shorts comes down to this.
A short to ground is NOT hooking up a ground. The wire harness is providing the ground.
All you are doing is sending volts from the Battery via RED LEAD on Volt Meter thru meter and into the harness by black lead.
The connector is disconnected where it normally would complete the ground, thus ZERO VOLTS, unless harness defect is making the ground, Short To Ground
If harness is disconected at the wheel for testing... then no volts will make it back to battery ground unless it is SHORTING TO GROUND. to complete circuit through volt meter.