Hello Daniel Thank you for the replay. Well you made it super clear i have the same thing like you efficiency below but the funny thing is it poops up after 900 km i scannend it twice and i have the same code but what i think its just some dirt around the oxygen sensor so what i did was i bought an oxygen sensor catalyic cleaner from a auto parts shop and i gave it a try so far no engine management light turned on if it will be again on i might change the sensor.
Great video very helpful do you happen to remember the part numbers for the top o2 sensor as i have the same car and getting a p0172 code running rich and i think it could be the pre cat o2 sensor is faulty
Hello, many thanks for your comment. To be completely honest I can not remember the exact fault code, looking it up quickly it does sound familiar. The problem is that the code is not very specific. It states that the Catalytic converter is working below its optimal efficiency. We had to do some more research and using a temperature gun the cat itself seemed to be fine and we used some other diagnostic software to find out it was the first oxygen sensor that was at fault. This code can be rather annoying and on older cars, they can keep popping up, my warning light is back on so I may need to replace the other sensor. I would suggest getting hold of some good diagnostic software if you can to see if that can tell you more or if not take it to a garage to be diagnosed if they say the sensor is at fault you should be able to replace that yourself by watching the video. But before you try anything clear the code and take it on a long motorway drive this always helps and the code may not come back. Thanks Daniel
Hello many thanks for your comment. When I replaced the sensor I did not use any anti-seize as I simply did not have any at the time. But using a small amount of anti-seize on the threads would help with removal in the future. If I were to do the job again I would smear a small amount of Copper grease into the threads of the sensor. I know that with some sensors you buy they can come with a small packet of anti-seize if that is the case use that. There are questions about Copper grease being the correct anti-seize but I have never had any problems or heard anything bad about its use in this application. If you do use Copper grease just get it on the threads do not get it on or in the sensor as this can damage it. Once you have applied it wash your hands or change your gloves to avoid smearing it elsewhere when working on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
CarDIYWithDan Thanks for the reply i was looking up copper grease and will probably get some when replacing i got the code today and reset it and it has not come back should i replace sensor or wait till it comes up again my engine light wasnt oni just plugged in the code reader as i have been getting codes but this one is new. Also would a shiftin spanner remove the sensor if i do need to change as i dont have a socket like the one you used ? thanks for the reply
The engine warning light usually takes a while to come back on. Mine took a week or so and some longer motorway driving. It seems that with this make and model of car that the engine warning light is a common problem. My engine warning light is currently on now, but on diagnostics both sensors are reading fine and I also had my catalytic converter checked to and found no problems with that. So not sure why my light is on could be a vacuum leak but really not that sure the car is driving fine and it recently passed its emissions at MOT time. Personally, I would wait for the light to come back on a check the codes again. If you are confident that it is the sensor at fault then go ahead and replace it make sure that it is the correct sensor that you are replacing and that it is not the other sensor on the underside of the car on the exhaust, although the process is exactly the same it will just require you to jack up the car. It is hard to say about using a shifting spanner. To get my sensor off it required a lot of strength even with a large ratchet. I can also imagine that access would be great when using a shifting spanner, but if you can get access then give it a go. If you have no luck with the shifting spanner then I would suggest to go and get a sensor socket (they are not too expensive) or see if you can borrow one of someone this should work great as they are designed specifically for the job. Many Thanks Dan
CarDIYWithDan Thanks i have recently passed emissions test aswel but car was smokey but somehow passed that code wasnt on at the time and my mechanic said it may be because oil was getting passed the piston rings. I will wait for the light to come back on it said it was bank 1 so i think it is the same one you changed. Thanks for video it will be helpful if i do need to change it.
I believe the EPC light is usually something to do with inlet manifold pressure. This could be a fault with the inlet manifold pressure switch or possibly even the throttle body perhaps. I have looked on forums and it seems like quite a common fault and sometimes it can be intermittent. I would advise trying to clear the warning light if you have the hardware to do so and see if it pops back up. If it does or you can not get rid of the code might be worth taking it to a garage for diagnostics just in case. But if the care is running fine I would not think it is a massive issue. Hope this helps thanks for the question.
Hello Daniel
Thank you for the replay.
Well you made it super clear
i have the same thing like you efficiency below
but the funny thing is it poops up after 900 km
i scannend it twice and i have the same code
but what i think its just some dirt around the oxygen sensor
so what i did was i bought an oxygen sensor catalyic cleaner
from a auto parts shop and i gave it a try
so far no engine management light turned on
if it will be again on i might change the sensor.
Great video very helpful do you happen to remember the part numbers for the top o2 sensor as i have the same car and getting a p0172 code running rich and i think it could be the pre cat o2 sensor is faulty
How to find this user manual pdf?
Thanks.Helpful
hello
lovely video.
did you had the code P0420?
Hello, many thanks for your comment. To be completely honest I can not remember the exact fault code, looking it up quickly it does sound familiar. The problem is that the code is not very specific. It states that the Catalytic converter is working below its optimal efficiency. We had to do some more research and using a temperature gun the cat itself seemed to be fine and we used some other diagnostic software to find out it was the first oxygen sensor that was at fault. This code can be rather annoying and on older cars, they can keep popping up, my warning light is back on so I may need to replace the other sensor. I would suggest getting hold of some good diagnostic software if you can to see if that can tell you more or if not take it to a garage to be diagnosed if they say the sensor is at fault you should be able to replace that yourself by watching the video. But before you try anything clear the code and take it on a long motorway drive this always helps and the code may not come back. Thanks Daniel
Did you add any sort of anti seize grease to it like it says in haynes and if so what would it be ?
Hello many thanks for your comment. When I replaced the sensor I did not use any anti-seize as I simply did not have any at the time. But using a small amount of anti-seize on the threads would help with removal in the future. If I were to do the job again I would smear a small amount of Copper grease into the threads of the sensor. I know that with some sensors you buy they can come with a small packet of anti-seize if that is the case use that. There are questions about Copper grease being the correct anti-seize but I have never had any problems or heard anything bad about its use in this application. If you do use Copper grease just get it on the threads do not get it on or in the sensor as this can damage it. Once you have applied it wash your hands or change your gloves to avoid smearing it elsewhere when working on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
CarDIYWithDan Thanks for the reply i was looking up copper grease and will probably get some when replacing i got the code today and reset it and it has not come back should i replace sensor or wait till it comes up again my engine light wasnt oni just plugged in the code reader as i have been getting codes but this one is new. Also would a shiftin spanner remove the sensor if i do need to change as i dont have a socket like the one you used ? thanks for the reply
sorry the reply came off my other channel
The engine warning light usually takes a while to come back on. Mine took a week or so and some longer motorway driving. It seems that with this make and model of car that the engine warning light is a common problem. My engine warning light is currently on now, but on diagnostics both sensors are reading fine and I also had my catalytic converter checked to and found no problems with that. So not sure why my light is on could be a vacuum leak but really not that sure the car is driving fine and it recently passed its emissions at MOT time. Personally, I would wait for the light to come back on a check the codes again. If you are confident that it is the sensor at fault then go ahead and replace it make sure that it is the correct sensor that you are replacing and that it is not the other sensor on the underside of the car on the exhaust, although the process is exactly the same it will just require you to jack up the car. It is hard to say about using a shifting spanner. To get my sensor off it required a lot of strength even with a large ratchet. I can also imagine that access would be great when using a shifting spanner, but if you can get access then give it a go. If you have no luck with the shifting spanner then I would suggest to go and get a sensor socket (they are not too expensive) or see if you can borrow one of someone this should work great as they are designed specifically for the job. Many Thanks Dan
CarDIYWithDan Thanks i have recently passed emissions test aswel but car was smokey but somehow passed that code wasnt on at the time and my mechanic said it may be because oil was getting passed the piston rings. I will wait for the light to come back on it said it was bank 1 so i think it is the same one you changed. Thanks for video it will be helpful if i do need to change it.
Do someone know about the code P0118 ?
I have switched on only EPC light...is for oxygen sensor?
I believe the EPC light is usually something to do with inlet manifold pressure. This could be a fault with the inlet manifold pressure switch or possibly even the throttle body perhaps. I have looked on forums and it seems like quite a common fault and sometimes it can be intermittent. I would advise trying to clear the warning light if you have the hardware to do so and see if it pops back up. If it does or you can not get rid of the code might be worth taking it to a garage for diagnostics just in case. But if the care is running fine I would not think it is a massive issue. Hope this helps thanks for the question.
I have try to switch off one....have swiched on again. The second oxygen sensor I've changed, possibly should changed the first sensor
both of you no
0:59
P
Hiç ayrıntılı değil, neyin nerde olduğu belli değil.
Thank you!