DR650 Electrical Bits & Pieces
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- G'day guys, this video is about how I wire up my DR650 for accessories like lights, 12 volt power outlets and hand grip warmers. I locate the DR650's factory accessory wire and also show my direct wire to terminals setup. Hope you enjoy! Cheers... Mark
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Electrically it will work because the pos and neg terminals on the switch don't matter, it's just a switch. However, you should always switch the pos and not the neg as in this example it means more of the circuit is always live than is necessary.
Keep the vids coming mate, I love them!
Its great to watch your enthusiasum when making your videos. Being an avid adventure rider mainly in the Middle East in the Oman mountains and deserts.
just to help out with the electrical drawing that you are showing please except my comment that the switch is not positive and negative it is used to break either the positive or negative line so therefore that is why in case of your drawing you are breaking the negitive line.
Normally you would place the switch on the positive line so that if there is a problem there would be no live connection if the switch is off and this means that if the live side contacted the chassis there would be no sparking.
Keep up the good work.
Jerry
Jerry you fking pimp. Why don't you make videos? Sounds like you would help many DR riders
if you are worried about battery charge, then there are cig/usb outlets that also incorporate a voltage meter.
Actually most new cars are negative switched as its more efficient. Mini blade terminal into accessory plug. Seen people go nuts trying to mount spotlights to negative switched car. It can make fault finding harder for amateurs.
Just a short note about the wiring diagram when you run live power stright to the lights if you damage in a wreck or accident and it short out on metal with fuel leaks you may get a fire your better runing all power to the switch then run power from there so if some thing goes wrong no live wires are active when the switch is off ! Keep smiling mate love your videos !
Another tip for electrical connections. I have gone thru my DR and put a dab of di-electric grease around every connector housing and the connector itself. There is nothing worse than water and dirt making its way in to connectors causing corrosion and those goofy connector housings from being stuck together.
The draw is caused by the regulator, converting the voltage to ~5v. One option is just to remove the fuse when you have the bike sitting for long periods. But yeah, i agree with your tender comment.
Found the accessorie wire !! Cheers mark !! Most helpful!!
The reason I recommend DIELECTRIC GREASE is that I live in Canada where we get lots of rain and damp weather which corrodes electrical connections. And dielectric grease helps promote electrical conduction I also drive fairly late into the season and start riding early in the season when there can be salt on the roads . Which sprays in everywhere rotting out the electrics .
James Armstrong An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Florida humidity destroys everything.
We enjoyed the video very much! Whoops, no battery!!! You crack us up! And we see how you operate. Do a little test run before hitting the record button. He he. A little off topic but how do you like your Sargent compared to the stock seat? Does it feel taller? At any rate, thanks as always for the video!
Hey guys, just a video about getting some electrical work done on Max the DR650. Hope you enjoy :-) Cheers... Mark
Yes that's right. Never switch the neutral as it allows the switch to be live all the time. The correct method is switch the active.
Cheers
Paul Granero could you give me diagram for correct way to wire light. I have a dr650 and still tossing up whether to wire to accessories up near headlight or directly to battery. I have an on/off switch to wire in. Only found one other diagram besides Marks however it shows on/off wired only to negative, not sure what to do with + if I did it this way. Thanks
Sure no worries, give me a couple of minutes and i'll do one for you.
Its best to go straight to the battery, main reason is that the accessory has a small fuse which may or may not allow your light to work through it.
if you go straight to the battery its a safer and better way of doing it.
your switch should go in the positive side of the circuit take the neutral wire straight to the
Minus (-) side of the the battery and the active to the positive side (+). get yourself a 10 amp fuse with holder and put that also in the positive side to safe guard both your light and the battery.
Hope that makes sense.
need your email to send it, i can't post it here it won't let me
Paul Granero mirkokaren@bigpond.com. Thanks for this
I just sent it to you.
Cheers
Paul
Just for your information, on my bike I had to add a relay to turn off my USB connector thing, it was drawing 50 mA/h all the time, and in two weeks the battery was so low that the bike would not start. 50 mA/h * 24h * 14 days = 16.8 amps and my battery is only a 12 amps... So I installed this www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=1#board and never had a problem afterward. Hope this can help somebody.
Your wiring diagram shows to put the switch on the negative lead ... WRONG ! . ALWAYS put the switch on the positive lead after your fuse . On my bike I've wired up an auxiliary fuse block which gets it's power direct from the battery and through a main fuse via a relay ... Tripped from the ignition accessory lead . then each accessory I connect gets it's own fuse . That way ALL my accessories get shut off when I turn the ignition switch off . Wiring relays is very simple if you look up a proper diagram and follow it .You should add up how many amps all your accessories draw and see if the bikes accessory circuit can handle all that . This is why I went with the auxiliary fuse block idea .
The dog getting it's bed out at 16:50 was funny. I'm not sure about electrics but that drawing got me thinking.
Electric stuff can be tricky! Thanks for sharing!
Gday Mark
Just thought I'd let you know that the fuse in place is to protect the wire from catching fire from too much current (Amps) passing through the cable. It is always best to use use a fuse that is slightly lower than the cable. The Amp rating of your cable should be written on the cable otherwise you can measure the gauge of the wire using a wire gauge wheel and then have a look at this website to see if it is suitable for your cable Your 10 Amp fuse looks to be suitable for the wire you are using Just thought I'd let you know
Also in your wiring diagram you drew the switch with a positive and negative terminal. That is incorrect it would have an input and a switched output
...thank you very much, I think it is a very interesting and instructive video...
It May be worth investing in something like a Denali Power Hub2 which gives you the option of setting your outputs to on of off when the ignition is off.
If you've got to get the Safari tank on and off and you're alone, and the tank isn't fitting back on easily, try using a couple of ratchet straps to torque and nudge it into place.
Okay, if you are running spotlights they must be linked to your high beam via a relay that doesnt allow them to be turned on without your headlight high beams on, as well as being able to switch them on amd off whilst high beam is on. That is the law for a motor vehicle, so I am assuming it is the same for a road registered motorcycle.
Understand why you have done it like this, just a heads up that you say run I to trouble with a roadworthy down the track - or a narc highway copper.
Get around this by using a separate guarded switch to enable them to be used as camp lights, etc.
Just a heads up.
Happy to help out with any wiring issues you may have.
Would you happen to know which wire controls hi beam on the 2012 Dr? I looked at a diagram and says its yellow but id love others input
Wiring is ass upwards mate. Live should be switched. No + or - on switch as it would create a dead short when thrown unless it's a double pole. Those lights are likely 10 watts each so 20 in total. 20watts / 12 volts is under 2 amps draw so a 3 amp fuse would be ample.
+N K Cool Bananas :-)
one other thing!! you can use Vaseline on the terminals ! yes thats right it works a treat and you would all ready have in the cupboard . cheers
there is a power outlet under the seat also!
+brent neill Cool... thanks! :-)
I added a delphi connector to the accessory wire, so I can quick connect whatever I want. and it shuts off with the key. so I don't accidentally drain the battery. then just run 1 wire from my battery for the gps because it doesn't take much juice, if I forget to unhook it. and I have a pig tail off the back of the battery for the tire pump.
Use longer bolts on the battery terminals???
Problem solved.
My $0.02.
I've always just stuck a doubled over piece of insulated wire under the nut if I didnt have access to longer bolts.
Good vids mate
you might check with dealer to see if that accessory wire will
handle the amps that heated grips draw . that plug might be for
a low amp accessory .
watching this made me realize why im not an electrician. haha great video, very helpful. thanks!!
Reminder to self , don’t get Mark to do any wiring on my bike! 😂, sorry great beginning video for those keen on self electric work, but easier to just take it to a professional, 👍
Hey Mark, do you have any videos of your wiring for those LED auxiliary lights?
About the only Mod left to do is the Pumper Carb to get instant throttle response for technical riding control. Used motocross carb on ebay is about 200 bucks. You are NEVER done Sir!
That wiring for the lights is dangerous. Use a relay, don't just use a switch. Too much power for the switch to handle. Not to mention having it on the ground vs the live connections.
i.imgur.com/SZHLMFW.jpg
10:48 sorry for the late comment, thought I'd do a circuit diagram using the international standard symbols and showing the switch [normally open circuit] NOC on the negative side.
which is like the kill switch on for the engine NOC when the engine is in the Run position and [Normally Closed circuit] NCC when the engine is off. This effectively grounds the coils out stopping a spark at the plug! and if you check out your switches you can usally find NOC and NCC molded on them
As I can't put an image here I posted a link to it.
With Best regards
HarryB
mistakes are great as long as we learn from the first one.
Cool Bananas... Thanks :-)
Hi There Mark,
Just saw this video,noticed it was a while ago but i hope you didn't wire it up this way?
I can send you a much better way which doesn't allow you to switch the neutral wires, your switch should switch the actives , let me know if you would be interested Cheers
So you're saying put the switch into the positive side instead of breaking the negative side?
@@843292 that's exactly what he is saying.
@@hughroughley3363 Thanks! I haven't done any electrical mods to my DR yet, but at some point I'd like to install a tank bag and a charge port to keep the GPS and phone running strong (and maybe a bigger stater coil!)
But I'm curious Hugh, and pardon my lack of experience with this, but what difference does it make if you break the negatives or the positives?
@@843292 because it kills the power and not the earth. As in, if there is a short in the appliance that is being controlled by the switch, if it only controls the negative side then you cant disconnect power via the switch. It will still drain battery etc. Same reason that a battery disconnect switch is on the positive, not the negative.
You want your switching 'upstream' of any loads.
Hope this helps.
@@843292 think of the circuit as water in a hose. That hose is fed by a pump (battery), then it flows to a series of sprinklers that are attached to the hose. Would you put the ball valve to stop the flow of water before or after the sprinklers?
Make more sense now?
I just grab a bit of cardboard or sliver of wood, jamm that between nut and terminal. BlueTac looks prettier tho.
Petroleum jelly is only to stop electrolisis on the terminals (white powder), it will eventually grow and stop contact of terminal to battery.
Lights with no Relay? I know its low voltage, but its kinda safer/better. Your not going to 'suck' heaps of voltage down a 10amp standard wire.
I ran a power lead to front, then have a fuse box there, then off to relay, cig socket, etc. Switch wire for lights is the high beam to relay then lights. Try this fuse box -
www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Components/Circuit-Protection/Other-Circuit-Protection-Products/Automotive-Fuse-Box---6-Blades/p/SZ2002
Thanx for sharing.
>:)
Those LED lights only draw 10watts each. No real need for a relay.
I'm no expert, but my Electr.Eng. mate is allways hassling me...'are you going to Relay that?". Better safe than melted wiring on the main loom.
>:)
I see you're learning about electricity,...Dr. Frankenstein
intresting first coment =)