Useful video! The connector seems to be the “Furukawa FW-C-2F”. Wonder if it could be used to complete a non-destructive “free power mod”. I assume yes but doesn’t seem to have been done.
good detective work Matt , The multimeter is my best friend, I use it for electronics and automotive and about anywhere there is power .. I like the Amp clamp as well in some applications.. 👍👍
I have a 2021e model in Australia now with 13500km. I had the EXACT same plug shit itself. Almost left me stranded in the forest, luckily I was able to roll start it down a hill. Water must have got into it and eroded it. I just soldered new plugs, job done! I wish I found this video prior to troubleshooting it. At least the stator is all good!
Any links on where to purchase the black connector that heats up and fails? (the one on the regulator/rectifier and the one it mates to on the bike). Some quick troubleshooting this morning and I've found the one on my bike has done the same thing your has done - it melted. I suspect the regulator/rectifier has failed too. There doesn't seem to be any output from it. The stator windings still check good with an ohm meter.
It’s your own choice to make, of course, but, personally speaking, I definitely would have chosen to instead, cut off, both of the connectors on that Regulator to Battery wiring harness, because they definitely do have a long and well proven track record of, causing, lots, of charging problems on the DRZ, because of, as you discovered yourself, the corrosion issues that always, develop inside of them, whenever moisture gets into those connectors. And then, after cutting off the connectors, I would have then pushed over one end of each of the cut off, positive, and negative wires, a suitable length, say 2” of heat-shrink tubing, matched to suit the diameter of each of those wires in that charging harness, before stripping off about a 1/2” of the insulation from each of the ends of the wires, and then, either twisting the bared wires together and then soldering them, OR, instead, used a couple of suitable sized tubular, crimp-on wire jointing-sleeves to join the wires together again, before then pushing the heat-shrink insulation along and over the joins, in the wires, and heating it to shrink-fit it tightly, over the twisted/soldered, or, sleeved, joints. That way, you have then permanently, eliminated, those very, corrosion, and trouble-prone connectors, out, of you bikes Alternator/Regulator and Battery charging circuit forever. And should you ever then need to replace your bike’s Regulator, at some point in future, then it’s really no big deal, to simply cut those wires again, and then re-join them again, after the new Regulator is fitted. If, you really, do, still want to retain those trouble-prone connectors on your bike, then it really is a very good idea, to pull them apart, as early on, in the life of your bike as possible, and give them all, a good squirt of a good, heavy duty waterproofing product, like LanoTec, which will then exclude, water, from entering, the connector housings, and thus prevent the metal connectors inside of them, from corroding, for as long as possible.
hey greata video! im gonna go check mine out and see if its the same situation going on, im glad you found the problem quickly, but part of me was kinda hoping to see some other points that could have been possible issues incase im not so lucky to have the same issue, great video though none the less!
Ok so i have measured the following: Big Pin with 3 yellow wires where you measured: 12,9V Idle 25-29V Choke The small pin with red and black wire: 0,4V Choke/Idle That means its not the stator but this small charge controller is bad?
@@MattVerley thank you for your fast reply! But are you sure about that stator? I now found on Google that it should have 30 in idle and up to 70-80 whith more rpm:(
@wnjxtz8498 yes, I'm certain about the stator being good. Those expected voltages vary a lot. If you're making any more than about 20v at idle and it goes up as you Rev the engine, then the stator is working properly. There is a little nuance to that...but for the purposes of troubleshooting a zero output from the regulator, you can consider your stator good.
My voltage bottomed out at 7.8 volts on a ride today. It will stay running, but if I shut it off, it won't start unless I push it. Maybe I should push it off a cliff. :-0
got a 2008 SM here that kept dying, that exact connector turned out to be my problem too. Thanks mate, saved me ££
Fixed my DRZ charging issue with the help of your video.
Nice to see some on TH-cam who has some mechanical/electrical knowledge and can communicate as well. Nicely done, as I would hope to see.
Useful video! The connector seems to be the “Furukawa FW-C-2F”. Wonder if it could be used to complete a non-destructive “free power mod”. I assume yes but doesn’t seem to have been done.
Thanks for the detective work on this connector.
U mean make it run off just gas vapor instead of gas or simply run it off hydrogen(water) like those beamers
good detective work Matt , The multimeter is my best friend, I use it for electronics and automotive and about anywhere there is power .. I like the Amp clamp as well in some applications.. 👍👍
I have a 2021e model in Australia now with 13500km. I had the EXACT same plug shit itself. Almost left me stranded in the forest, luckily I was able to roll start it down a hill. Water must have got into it and eroded it. I just soldered new plugs, job done! I wish I found this video prior to troubleshooting it. At least the stator is all good!
Great video. This is why I put dielectric grease on when doing anything electric
Exactly what happen to my 08 great vid
Where did you get those current/phone chargers at? I see a lot of cylinder style ones but none like yours.
Any luck on this?? 😂😂
Hey would be nice of showing were the rectifier is rather than the magic shot of it appearing on your bench.
Any links on where to purchase the black connector that heats up and fails? (the one on the regulator/rectifier and the one it mates to on the bike).
Some quick troubleshooting this morning and I've found the one on my bike has done the same thing your has done - it melted.
I suspect the regulator/rectifier has failed too. There doesn't seem to be any output from it. The stator windings still check good with an ohm meter.
My bike wont rev up since fitting a new stator and pick up. Any ideas please?
I would have used the new plug case since they were identical...
I like to keep the stock plugs whenever possible as well.
It’s your own choice to make, of course, but, personally speaking, I definitely would have chosen to instead, cut off, both of the connectors on that Regulator to Battery wiring harness, because they definitely do have a long and well proven track record of, causing, lots, of charging problems on the DRZ, because of, as you discovered yourself, the corrosion issues that always, develop inside of them, whenever moisture gets into those connectors.
And then, after cutting off the connectors, I would have then pushed over one end of each of the cut off, positive, and negative wires, a suitable length, say 2” of heat-shrink tubing, matched to suit the diameter of each of those wires in that charging harness, before stripping off about a 1/2” of the insulation from each of the ends of the wires, and then, either twisting the bared wires together and then soldering them, OR, instead, used a couple of suitable sized tubular, crimp-on wire jointing-sleeves to join the wires together again, before then pushing the heat-shrink insulation along and over the joins, in the wires, and heating it to shrink-fit it tightly, over the twisted/soldered, or, sleeved, joints.
That way, you have then permanently, eliminated, those very, corrosion, and trouble-prone connectors, out, of you bikes Alternator/Regulator and Battery charging circuit forever.
And should you ever then need to replace your bike’s Regulator, at some point in future, then it’s really no big deal, to simply cut those wires again, and then re-join them again, after the new Regulator is fitted.
If, you really, do, still want to retain those trouble-prone connectors on your bike, then it really is a very good idea, to pull them apart, as early on, in the life of your bike as possible, and give them all, a good squirt of a good, heavy duty waterproofing product, like LanoTec, which will then exclude, water, from entering, the connector housings, and thus prevent the metal connectors inside of them, from corroding, for as long as possible.
hey greata video! im gonna go check mine out and see if its the same situation going on, im glad you found the problem quickly, but part of me was kinda hoping to see some other points that could have been possible issues incase im not so lucky to have the same issue, great video though none the less!
Ok so i have measured the following:
Big Pin with 3 yellow wires where you measured:
12,9V Idle
25-29V Choke
The small pin with red and black wire:
0,4V Choke/Idle
That means its not the stator but this small charge controller is bad?
Yes, that means that the stator is good, and the regulator/rectifier is bad (or you have a bad connection like I did)
@@MattVerley thank you for your fast reply!
But are you sure about that stator?
I now found on Google that it should have 30 in idle and up to 70-80 whith more rpm:(
@wnjxtz8498 yes, I'm certain about the stator being good. Those expected voltages vary a lot. If you're making any more than about 20v at idle and it goes up as you Rev the engine, then the stator is working properly. There is a little nuance to that...but for the purposes of troubleshooting a zero output from the regulator, you can consider your stator good.
@@MattVerley ok that sounds good 😊
Thank you man!
yo what is that little blue volt meter you have there I wanna install one!
It’s a usb/PD charger. I designed and 3D printed a mount for it. This is the one I used:
amzn.to/3RJzI5c
This is the video I did on the install:
th-cam.com/video/VrPDZCcAzm4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=As-hpOGaqK6WLujS
Great video
My voltage bottomed out at 7.8 volts on a ride today. It will stay running, but if I shut it off, it won't start unless I push it. Maybe I should push it off a cliff. :-0
Add a kick starter problem solved kick it be a man ….
ありがとう！