Hey man great vid/blog have done all l can to my dr now looking to a KTM 890 love your style on you desert sled WA by the looks of wave rock nice work cheers
Man, do you have some SERIOUS riding skills! I was nervous just watching some of that. I guess it's time for me to step up my game. Thanks for the inspiration. Cheers!
90% rider and 10% bike! DR 650 is a great platform for all from stock commuter to harder single track! I rode mine up some of the gnarliest hills in the Rocky Mountains that most ppl wouldn’t take a trials bike on! Point is this bike can be made into a very capable bike for any environment! Keep up the great vids!
It’s definitely 90% rider. But some people need to compensate for their distinct lack of skill and time on bike. I used to ride with an old devil who was on an old xr250. He would leave guys on KTM500excs in his dust. The guy had been riding for 40 years literally it was his only hobby. He used to have his standard xr250 on the back of his Ute and after our job finishes at 4pm, he’d be off to the local paddock 2-3 times every week. I never met anyone so into dirt bikes before and I had no hope in hell of keeping up with him even on my tt600 with ohlins suspension 😂
I'm buying my first DR650 this week and have watched tons of videos on the initial setup work. Your step-by-step "mod tier" approach was by far the clearest to understand. Thank you!
I'm at 2.5 in mods. I did find lower/more rearward pegs made a big difference for my riding and comfort. Learning (attempting at least) to ride trials has been my best non bike upgrade. Like your vids and attitude. Your local terrain looks fun.
i got my DR650 and theres tons of aftermarket stuff for it, and no videos explaining proper gearing/suspension info for me! this video was exactly what I needed to plan my next mods. thanks!
This is probably the best most sensible list of mods I have seen on the DR. I agree with pretty much everything you have to say in this video. I don’t say that very often! While I have my forks and shock revalved and a new rear spring if I were going to do another bike on the cheap I might just try the 10w oil in the rear shock and the extra preload on the front. I think that would be the ultimate $20 fix for the DR suspension.
How do you go about revalving the stock rear fork? If I buy the "Gold valve" from procycle does that include everything I need without having to drill anything out? I looked at the instructions included and now I'm honestly more confused than when I started looking into the revalve.
@@boodasias563 You could make life easier by buying a rebuilt shock with the gold valve already installed. If not, did you buy just the valving part or did you buy the whole racetech shaft and end seal? If you can do fork rebuilds, I think a shock rebuild is only slightly more difficult. it is much more critical that you bleed and get all the air out of the shock. (optional) A vacuum pump. You can just outgas the oil but it makes filling the shock a breeze and produces better results. If filing this way you will need adapters to connect to your shock. *Top tip discovered by me: Where can I get an adapter? Does that clicker thread seem familiar? Have you seen it somewhere before?* Yes, you have. *It's the same threads as the filter screen/nozzle on your bathroom & kitchen sink: 15/16-27 male.* Something like an Ace hardware should have an adapter that converts that to hose or pipe threads (or you can buy a brass one for soldering to). From there, I recommend pushlock/push-to-connect fittings, but use whatever you want for vac lines. The clicker uses seals in the bore. Rather than trying to do that, I opted to seal to the outside face: I put a washer over the faucet fitting, then a thick o-ring, undersized to compress and seal the adapter to the face of the port. I had a rebuilt shock, so the clickers had already been pulled out before. That made things easy (once I figured out what threads that was) Here's the gist: Perhaps you can do it without pulling the clicker: loosen preload spring as much as possible. The ring on the shaft side is recessed (so spring pressure would keep it trapped), so push it toward the spring then slide it off. Off goes the spring. bleed pressure off the bladder (warning: don't just unscrew the stem. 160psi is a lot more than a tire! bleed it off and only remove the stem once it is bled down) (after bladder pressure removed!) remove dust seal and clip holding shaft seal/end cap on. push bladder cap in and remove it's retaining clip. Put a cap on the valve stem and use it to pull the bladder cap (can help by pushing the shock shaft in) With the bladder out, pull the shock shaft to remove it. clean out/de-muck reassembly: Put the shock shaft and end cap with retaining clips back in. Now this is where things diverge: No clicker removal method: fill with oil. pump and pump and pump (15min minimum) to try to get every possible bubble out. Now the next trick needs slight explaining: Ideally, you would have a fill port or the clicker pulled out. Shock fully pulled out/extended, you would put in the bladder and give it a little pressure (setting an air volume, similar to fork oil height). the excess oil would go out the bleeder. seal the bleeder it and pressurize the bladder to full pressure. But if that clicker has never been out and you want to avoid that, then *you must recreate that space for the air bladder to expand,* because the bladder is going to squish down/collapse to too small a volume when it is the plug sealing everything up. Just like an overfilled fork, that will make it harsh. So, you extend the shock, overfill with oil. Then push the shock shaft in a bit. Put the bladder in, with the goal of oil overflow to avoid air bubbles. cap it and retaining ring. Now pressurize the bladder to a low pressure ~5psi. The goal is to recreate a full & extended shock, with ~no pressure built up but ~5psi in the air bladder. Grab the shock shaft, and at full extent, you should just barely feel the pressure as you push it in slightly. Now you can fill to the desired psi (120-160psi), which will affect plushness, bottoming resistance, and rebound (it's air spring after all). Easy version: have bleeder port or the clicker has been out before and you have vacuum adapters & oil chamber in line. Install the shaft and bladder. Put 5-7psi in the bladder. Install vacuum adapters then oil vacuum chamber then vac pump. 1st few seconds will have the oil froth & expand like crazy, so click the vac on/off for a few seconds until it calms down a bit and wont suck oil into your vacuum pump Then vac it for a good while (15+min) until you don't see anymore bubbles coming up through your oil (decide when it's good enough, if you have slight leaks). Turn off the vac (and bleed at vacuum, if yours has a check valve built in). Oil will suck through the tubes into the shock to fill the vacuum currently there. Either apply a small pressure (~2psi) or pull the shock shaft & bladder fully extended by hand. There should be excess oil still in the tube. If it sucked it all up, you used too little oil. Add some more to the chamber and repeat the process (don't need to undo what you've already done) When satisfied, disconnect your adapters. Put the clicker submerged into a container full of the oil. Get close and ready. Transfer quick, to minimize any possible air bubbles. Pressurize air bladder to desired psi. (congrats, you now have a "professional" shock refill) Should you use nitrogen or shop air? short answer: nitrogen is better, but air is fine if you aren't pro MX or supercross. Nitrogen is more temp and long term pressure holding stable. Regular air is mostly nitrogen already, but contains more moisture and more oxidizer (oxygen). Spend money on nitrogen? Or spend money on replacing a bladder slightly more often? Your choice. For testing, I'd go with what's convenient, even if you plan to replace with nitrogen. Don't use CO2, because it's corrosive when combined with water/moisture (except a trailside emergency repair). How to pull the clicker: Since the stock DR shock lacks any bleeding ports, you should need to pull out the valving/clicker insert. From the factory, they peened the metal around the lip to keep it from ever coming out accidentally. You will need to sand that away a little bit (much like shock and fork valving usually needs the nut ground a little to pull off). I recommend an air sander with little sanding disks, but use what you have. Even once ground/sanded, it will be locktighted in there. use leather gloves in a vice and grip the bladder/expansion chamber (don't grip the main shock cylinder).
Jock ({Perth Hills 2023) . Congrats , on your tips/ sensible achievable upgrades . The DR has many fans and not all of us can justify $30 k for a Ducati Dirt Bike or KTM etc . Solid advice , straight to the point and honest, plus good ride clips. As the actress said ( to the Bishop) "Keep It Up"....Ha!! ..I have subscribed...no brainer !!!!
I had a DR. Put 55,000 miles on it. I spent about $2,000 USD on mods to make it more capable. Some mods were worth it others not so much. I really liked the bike. Ended up getting a new KTM690 in 2016 and had to mod the suspension on that too. But in the end I like the KTM690 better, but it’s expensive. However lately I’ve seen several pre-2019 690 used models for sale for not much more than a DR. I can’t understand why people need ride modes on a dual sport bike. I’m fine with just phenomenal horsepower and ABS which is what the pre-2019s offer.
It’s funny seeing some of the comments with different ideas of what mods are essential…I think I’ll trust the guy with videos jumping the DR and hopping logs over the random commenters 😅
Tier 2.5 for me. Larger tank so you can stay in the bush. Cut and weld the pegs for better ergonomic and less leg pump going from sitting to standing.. Also weld on wider grip for the ome pegs. With riding gear and hydro pack I'm sitting at 107kg so for me springs and damping is the go. Love your content 👍
Awesome, practical advice. Thanks for the great video. I've been riding snowmobiles (sleds) for 35 years, had a few bikes over the years but only have 2000 miles on the roads. I have wanted an Enduro bike for 30 years and just picked up a DR a few days after the snow fell. I have past tier 2 done, plus a tank, seat, bar riser, cut/weld/relocate the foot pegs and I have not even ridden it yet. 🙄 I know it's going to be a good bike. The simplicity is amazing, there isn't anything on it that's complex. Just a good reliable design.
Wonderful video Skids! Great way to list out the tiers of mods. The DR is quite capable of doing what one would need but there is always room for improvement. Now, if they just sold that mod that would make me ride like Skids and Stuff, I would be in my happy place! Cheers Mate!!
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Thank You Skids for everything you do! Great points on mods for the Mighty DR650. I just bought another one and I am looking forward to at a lot of the mods you mentioned. Happy Holidays my Friend! Cheers Mate!
Wicked video! You ride that 650 like I ride my yz250. Thanks for the honest advice about upgrades, I am thinking about getting a dr650 for my main means of transport to work. The first 5 miles is un- maintained dirt road , and the rest is a combination of suburban and urban. I have had sportbikes in the past and have been riding dirtbikes for 30+ years. This bike has been calling my name for quite some time. cheers!
Good way of explaining the levels. For better performance I did: 1. Seat 2. Front and rear springs and valves 3. Risers and cables Not go into the tyres bit yet but agree that it needs better tyres.
This video must be why I am still sitting up at 1.30am.... I have done about 47 more mods to mine, still not finished, still cant ride it 🤣😂😅 I may have gotten carried away
Thank you for the video! Great information. This video has already been added to my motorcycle playlist simply so I can reference the information. I have a moderately modded DR650 in which I modded everything within my understanding. I've done things like: windshields, lowering the pegs, swapping out tires, inline fuel filter, bike armor, handlebars, barkbusters, luggage Etc... but I've been nervous to dive into mechanical changes simply because I lack the understanding of what those changes will accomplish. I don't want to put time and money into something that I don't need for me personally. That said, I'd love to see an edit of this video where you go further into depth on the reasons for the modifications for the newbies. For me, understanding what most of these mods even are is the difference between knowing what is right and wrong for me. Anyway, thanks again for the video!
Top video mate I got my DR650 with a lot of mods from the previous owner still learning to ride the pig off road as I mostly ride a rocket 3 enjoying your videos have a merry Christmas and a safe new year 👍
Only a few expensive mods on the DR are really "necessary". Some good mods are free or very inexpensive. - Swap upper chainroller for a setscrew. - Loctite and safetywire NSU screws. - Grease. - Used Suzuki skidplate. - Cyclegear handguards on sale. - Adjustable Australian needle, de-snorkel, and extended idle-mix screw. - 44T rear sprocket. - Front road-legal knobby and rear, long-wearing semi-knob. Something like Mitas E09F and E07R could take a big DR a lot of places. - Used 5gal tank. If you're heavier than 170lb or so, you'll likely want to re-spring the suspension. Better damping is good for hard riding too. Luggage can be as simple as a Nelson-Rigg tankbag and rackless Giant Loop, Green Chile, or Mosko-Moto rear luggage. I like having a flush taillight too. The North American taillight falls apart. Many people like an upgraded seat, but I'm used to the stocker. I've even shaved one 2". I don't seem to need a windscreen either, but some people make their own for cheap. Shaving weight can be good too, like removing helmet lock, removing passenger pegs, tail-tidy, swapping mirrors, swapping fork spacers, swapping signals, swapping reflectors, swapping to titanium/aluminum muff, swapping to lithium battery, etc.
Have done the front spring upgrade and to coin a phrase it's a game changer. Thanks for the heads up on the front tyre, that's been the bane of my existence for so long, I'll consider giving it a try . Cheers 🍻
Solid advice here! Also this guy proves that it's the rider, not the bike. I've had my DR for 7+ years, so it's got substantial mods. Level 3 since I enjoy turning a wrench for a measurable gain. As stated here, getting into the level 2 should keep you happy. Suspension and tires first. Especially if you're a bigger guy.
Man you have that DR650 dialed in. Seriously makes me want one now. I went from riding a drz400 to testing a stock dr650 around the block. I ultimately got a xr650r but it’s tall. I’m 5’7” I wasn’t sold on the DR650 for some reason. Seeing you thrash around on that thing is legit. It’s a different bike. I may have to get one here real soon and add your mods to it.
With some easy tweaks the stock DR could ride well for someone 5' 7 if you're not too stout. Turn in the rear comp, add some fork preload and I'm pretty happy on a stock DR for most regular riding
I’m 5’8” and rode my DR like a dirt bike. It just takes practice. Get a good seat, fix the fueling and exhaust, tune the suspension, replace the stock bars and armor the whole thing. Then set it up with good knobbies and go wring it out on the dirt roads.
0:06 oh lord I'm a relatively new rider. I ride a old nx650 Honda Dominator from 93. If you can do silly jumps like that on your dr650, I can probably do it too on my bike. With a lot of practice. And that both scares me and excites me. These old machines really do everything. I find myself often looking for a newer machine, but I can never justify a purchase when my old bike seem to handle abuse like no new machine.
So changing this mods, in the end I will have your ridding skills levels, right? 😅 Nice... Eheh... Great video man.. it is a joy seeing your channel. Cheer's from Portugal. 🇵🇹
Thanks for the common sense plan. You clearly ride the bike more that you read other people's postings. I pretty much followed the same plan, Racetech shock rebuild, new front springs and Gold Valves, D606 and Scorpion Rally. I know enough about carbs not to cut the stocker, and there's no way to make a DR into a KTM. What I want to know: What pannier rack do you have or recommend?
hey bro! it's a great video! i just got a dr 650 and the way your bike performs is amazing...!!! Could you recommend brands or links where you can get the improvements of T1 and T2. I'm from Mexico and getting the improvements here is a headache! hahaha. I liked your video!!! keep it up bro!
I have done a lot of mods but for me the ProCycle carb kit was the biggest improvement. I'd still like a Pumper carb because I still feel a slight delay in response but I'll probably ignore it since I won't be doing any racing. 😆
One of the most information relevant/pack dr vid ever. You are quite the DrKnight ! So many others are just about buying stuff for the sake of ? I do have a question... I want to swap to a 44 from the 42 rear sprocket. Can I still run the stock chain ? "slam the wheel" ?
Another great mod is to set the bars forward with forward offset riser. This places the bars in line with the forks for better weighting and feel in addition to being much more comfortable for a taller rider, especially when standing. Even Skids seems to have some hunch when riding.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF It's the forward set that matters more than the rise. If u look where the bar clamps are mounted on the triple clamps u can see there is also a rearward angle offset, meaning risers alone will set the bars even closer to the rider making for a cramped position. You need a forward set to compensate for this. For me being 6'2 it is definitely an essential mod and also improved front end feel into the bargain.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF similar conclusion coming from me (an offroad noob) and my skilled MX friend. The raised bars made the stance way too upright. It was more work to get weight forward when needed, and it was causing a lot of arm pump even for my experienced friend. Simply ripping off the riser and going to stock bar height make cornering and taking whoops way easier and less jarring. People should watch Bret Tkacs 2 videos on bar risers for short people and tall rider tips.
Well said, though I'd personally put the airbox mods & _basic_ rejet (no modding) in the next to free improvements section. I've taken all my _street bikes_ offroad and even jumped them on small jumps. Ideal? No. And I've ridden MX and trail bikes of various price ranges. *So the following is coming from a "use what you've got" but also "why settle, when you can make it better cheaply" perspective.* My DR is in the early stage 2 to stage 3 range: some improvements, but also inadequate suspension performance, awaiting a major improvement via front end swap (most of the parts already in hand) Bought the bike from someone with similar weight and height. It came with nicer pegs and bars (raised). TM40 pumper carb (procycle version, already jetted) *It was resprung and had intiminators, "the best suspension you can buy"... right.* (more below, but In reality it was street soft with _really bad_ rebound control) Every spring is just below the softest online recommendations I could find. The rear was also sprung too soft and had a cogent improved shock (stock with rebound and better shim stacks) From testing, he must have asked for street soft, as I can't imagine cogent being so incompetent as making their upgraded shock that inadequately dampened without being requested to do so. (anyone else with want to chime in with their experience?) On the street, it was fine. Well mannered. Not as nice as my cheap ninja 300, but not bad... but I had my suspicions. *Offroad, it was so bad - it quickly beat up me and my MX skilled rider friend.* It pogo'd violently from end to end, each bad response getting thrown into the other misbehaving end. Lack of rebound damping meant neither end gripped well (not a tire fault). Cornering was about planning how much you expected the front end to keep slipping wide. *My streetbike fronts grip better than that!* I've done the next to free mods, including the more skilled tinkering ones: thicker oils both ends (shock rebuild) and increased level in the front. Added a much bigger rear sprocket (so I wouldn't need clutch to make it go less than 10mph offroad). All that made it _drivable_ offroad, but still only just getting there. The front end is only just leaving the excessive rebound and starting to grip. Because the springs are too soft, it is a compromise between _how much_ to reduce collapsing and how harsh can be tolerated for the little bumps. Ridable, capable of some rough offroad, but not ideal. *Those intiminators are not a drop inmod !* Oh, they claim to be - but then *they hose your rebound damping* to pretend they are. This is horrible offroad. Not only do they perform inadequate in compression offroad, but the DR already starts a bit under-damped in rebound. Intiminators require even thinner oil, making that far worse: collapsing + pogo'ing. Having ridden and adjusted my friends MX bikes, I've felt 1st hand how much difference rebound settings make. *Noob or not, it's easy to feel mushy going wide vs cuts a line right where you put it.* I was already looking at needing springs, and needing (proper) emulators. And that would leave me opening shocks to tune rebound. I found an RMZ450 front end for less than $300, which comes with comp & reb clickers and is more responsive to valving changes. I'd consider that a bargain for the massive improvement it's expected to make. I'm an engineer and mechanic. I also have a little cnc router, so I can make some parts at home. This is a more approachable mod for me than for most. I've also got other bikes and friend's bikes I can ride, so I'm not missing much while it's down. *I wouldn't recommend this route for someone new to wrenching or someone who wants a quick drop in solution.*
Awesome video, made some notes for future mods and have my bike booked in to get the front springs done. Any handlebar recommendations? 5ft 10 do I need risers, feel like I’m riding with my fingertips. Cheers.
Same height as me. My DR originally came with risers and I ditched them for stock mounts... much better for me, feel a lot more connected to the front end now. I do run lowered pegs though which I can highly recommend other than have to be really careful in single trail to not smash my feet. I just run the cheapest handlebars I could find after bending the stock bars.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF thanks mate, yeah risers seem quite topical across the forums, left me pretty confused, I’ll give the pegs a go first. Thanks again and Merry Xmas.
Hey Ben, love the vids they've been a massive help. So if your rocking 15/44 with a 525 chain, whats the link count on that? Google reckons OEM is 110 but would I be alright with a 120link with a slammed rear like yours?
stock length chain gives slammed rear with 15/44. but if i was to do it again i would go 14/42 gearing for a slightly longer rear and set-up the bike around that. while i like the responsiveness of the slammed rear end, a longer rear give better action on whoops and sharp hits.
I like the stock gear lever. Some people like to run lower footpegs, mine are lower, but I've never tried stock. I'd think you would atleast need to remove the stock foot pegs rubber mounting system.
What do you think are the best ADV boots as in best ankle protection. Am searching for a DR, there are quite a few about, some with high kilometeres some with low, your opinion on a high kilometre or older DR. Thanks.
I would go with ffrc plex valves for the forks instead of springs, they basically turn it into a modern cartridge fork, I wouldn't bother with fork springs unless you're over 100kg, cutting open the top of the airbox and rejetting the carb give great results for cheap, the pumper carb basically gives it the throttle response of an injected bike.
Yeah mods sargent seat is a must, bar risers and fat bars, storm barbusters ,slim screen ,30 ltr tank full staintune exhaust, rejet stock caby, heavier front springs (no emulators) cut and drilled front guard for more air flow cut at least 50 + mill off front and drilled right back side for oil cooler,force accessories bash plate (the best choice) with over sized holes for cooling ,yz pegs lowered, centre stand for lubing chain and punctures ,racks and soft bags ,15/45 gearing, head light cover ,last but not l fitted a Elka rear shock with external preload adjuster definitely a great investment they don't use the preload adjuster any more l can adjust high and low speed comp on the fly are yes that's while lm riding at speed (open desert)all these mods cost me approximately 5k the bike has 43k on it and lm selling it to buy a KTM 890 as l need more road use
Gonna depend on weather and altitude. i have the screw set at about 2 turns out, in summer the airbox snorkel is out whereas in winter I didnt need it out. I dont experience any off idle stumble this way
My DR650 is a fantastic value adventure bike and a great basic trail bike. That's why I chose it over the rest. You must share genes with superman if you can ride it like in your video. It is far too heavy overall, top heavy, high seated and high geared for me to ride it like that. Also the rear tire is far too small for a bike this size. It is a huge effort to pick it up when I inevitably lose traction, overbalance and topple over, particularly with a full 20L tank. I am 6'1" and 86kg. I have dropped it several times overbalancing just getting on and off of it stationary. My 1981 IT465 is a far more capable and enjoyable bike to ride off road as it is not effected by these problems. My top mod is the seat. There aren't strong enough swear words to describe the standard seat. Next is the riding position. Two inch lowered pegs and moving the bars both up and forward 2 inches transformed the bike for sitting and standing. Dropping a tooth on the counter sprocket is great. Even with mid range after market springs the forks are still soft and comfortable. Fork cartridge emulators soften up high speed compression dampening on rocks and sharp edges but otherwise you don't need them. I agree you should re-valve the rear shock as there is no dampening to speak of. The standard engine is powerful and very quiet. I have modified the airbox and jetting but the benefits are small for the extra induction noise. The close fitting seat and obstructive cabling and pipes limits the amount of intake air so there is not much benefit cutting holes in the top of the airbox.
As been said previously - great vid, thanks! You ve mentioned your weight, but how tall are you? Have had a transalp 700va, would love to have similar power off road with the dr650, but it looks small for 1.85m person, hence constantly looking at drz. Can a higher concept seat, risers or other mods improve the problem?
Hey Ben. Awesome vid as always. I'm on my way to completing tier 1 and 2. I have the Motoz desert front also, it's bloody amazing off-road but I'm finding it wobbles a lot at 100km+. Did you find it was like this also ? I only have a couple of hundred K on them. Keep the vids coming
I don't notice that at all... if you not yet done tier 2 suspension then you will find what you seek there, it will be a front/rear bike balance issue.
Have linked a few videos in the description about parts mentioned in this video. Great to hear these tips helping crew out. Cheers.
Hey man great vid/blog have done all l can to my dr now looking to a KTM 890 love your style on you desert sled WA by the looks of wave rock nice work cheers
Man, do you have some SERIOUS riding skills! I was nervous just watching some of that. I guess it's time for me to step up my game. Thanks for the inspiration.
Cheers!
90% rider and 10% bike!
DR 650 is a great platform for all from stock commuter to harder single track! I rode mine up some of the gnarliest hills in the Rocky Mountains that most ppl wouldn’t take a trials bike on!
Point is this bike can be made into a very capable bike for any environment!
Keep up the great vids!
It's a handy dandy bit a kit for sure. Keep shredding Barry
It’s definitely 90% rider. But some people need to compensate for their distinct lack of skill and time on bike. I used to ride with an old devil who was on an old xr250. He would leave guys on KTM500excs in his dust. The guy had been riding for 40 years literally it was his only hobby. He used to have his standard xr250 on the back of his Ute and after our job finishes at 4pm, he’d be off to the local paddock 2-3 times every week. I never met anyone so into dirt bikes before and I had no hope in hell of keeping up with him even on my tt600 with ohlins suspension 😂
I'm buying my first DR650 this week and have watched tons of videos on the initial setup work. Your step-by-step "mod tier" approach was by far the clearest to understand. Thank you!
I'm also getting one! this video is great
Always a pleasure to watch these vids. Excellent detail.
Loved your blurb on modding a bush pig straight forward and to the point. Am so tired of riders banging on about nothing. Makes me want to buy one.
haha true. KISS!
I'm at 2.5 in mods. I did find lower/more rearward pegs made a big difference for my riding and comfort. Learning (attempting at least) to ride trials has been my best non bike upgrade. Like your vids and attitude. Your local terrain looks fun.
Cheers John yeh lowered pegs are great for sure, I was trying to keep this vid suspension/engine related
i got my DR650 and theres tons of aftermarket stuff for it, and no videos explaining proper gearing/suspension info for me! this video was exactly what I needed to plan my next mods.
thanks!
Glad it could help!
Very helpful video
This is probably the best most sensible list of mods I have seen on the DR. I agree with pretty much everything you have to say in this video. I don’t say that very often! While I have my forks and shock revalved and a new rear spring if I were going to do another bike on the cheap I might just try the 10w oil in the rear shock and the extra preload on the front. I think that would be the ultimate $20 fix for the DR suspension.
Yeh the Dr like a bit of the Keep It Simple Stupid treatment
How do you go about revalving the stock rear fork? If I buy the "Gold valve" from procycle does that include everything I need without having to drill anything out? I looked at the instructions included and now I'm honestly more confused than when I started looking into the revalve.
@@boodasias563 You could make life easier by buying a rebuilt shock with the gold valve already installed.
If not, did you buy just the valving part or did you buy the whole racetech shaft and end seal? If you can do fork rebuilds, I think a shock rebuild is only slightly more difficult. it is much more critical that you bleed and get all the air out of the shock.
(optional) A vacuum pump. You can just outgas the oil but it makes filling the shock a breeze and produces better results. If filing this way you will need adapters to connect to your shock.
*Top tip discovered by me: Where can I get an adapter? Does that clicker thread seem familiar? Have you seen it somewhere before?*
Yes, you have. *It's the same threads as the filter screen/nozzle on your bathroom & kitchen sink: 15/16-27 male.* Something like an Ace hardware should have an adapter that converts that to hose or pipe threads (or you can buy a brass one for soldering to). From there, I recommend pushlock/push-to-connect fittings, but use whatever you want for vac lines. The clicker uses seals in the bore. Rather than trying to do that, I opted to seal to the outside face: I put a washer over the faucet fitting, then a thick o-ring, undersized to compress and seal the adapter to the face of the port.
I had a rebuilt shock, so the clickers had already been pulled out before. That made things easy (once I figured out what threads that was)
Here's the gist:
Perhaps you can do it without pulling the clicker:
loosen preload spring as much as possible. The ring on the shaft side is recessed (so spring pressure would keep it trapped), so push it toward the spring then slide it off. Off goes the spring.
bleed pressure off the bladder (warning: don't just unscrew the stem. 160psi is a lot more than a tire! bleed it off and only remove the stem once it is bled down)
(after bladder pressure removed!) remove dust seal and clip holding shaft seal/end cap on.
push bladder cap in and remove it's retaining clip. Put a cap on the valve stem and use it to pull the bladder cap (can help by pushing the shock shaft in)
With the bladder out, pull the shock shaft to remove it.
clean out/de-muck
reassembly:
Put the shock shaft and end cap with retaining clips back in.
Now this is where things diverge:
No clicker removal method:
fill with oil. pump and pump and pump (15min minimum) to try to get every possible bubble out.
Now the next trick needs slight explaining: Ideally, you would have a fill port or the clicker pulled out. Shock fully pulled out/extended, you would put in the bladder and give it a little pressure (setting an air volume, similar to fork oil height). the excess oil would go out the bleeder. seal the bleeder it and pressurize the bladder to full pressure.
But if that clicker has never been out and you want to avoid that, then *you must recreate that space for the air bladder to expand,* because the bladder is going to squish down/collapse to too small a volume when it is the plug sealing everything up. Just like an overfilled fork, that will make it harsh. So, you extend the shock, overfill with oil. Then push the shock shaft in a bit. Put the bladder in, with the goal of oil overflow to avoid air bubbles. cap it and retaining ring.
Now pressurize the bladder to a low pressure ~5psi. The goal is to recreate a full & extended shock, with ~no pressure built up but ~5psi in the air bladder. Grab the shock shaft, and at full extent, you should just barely feel the pressure as you push it in slightly. Now you can fill to the desired psi (120-160psi), which will affect plushness, bottoming resistance, and rebound (it's air spring after all).
Easy version: have bleeder port or the clicker has been out before and you have vacuum adapters & oil chamber in line.
Install the shaft and bladder. Put 5-7psi in the bladder.
Install vacuum adapters then oil vacuum chamber then vac pump.
1st few seconds will have the oil froth & expand like crazy, so click the vac on/off for a few seconds until it calms down a bit and wont suck oil into your vacuum pump
Then vac it for a good while (15+min) until you don't see anymore bubbles coming up through your oil (decide when it's good enough, if you have slight leaks).
Turn off the vac (and bleed at vacuum, if yours has a check valve built in). Oil will suck through the tubes into the shock to fill the vacuum currently there.
Either apply a small pressure (~2psi) or pull the shock shaft & bladder fully extended by hand.
There should be excess oil still in the tube. If it sucked it all up, you used too little oil. Add some more to the chamber and repeat the process (don't need to undo what you've already done)
When satisfied, disconnect your adapters. Put the clicker submerged into a container full of the oil. Get close and ready. Transfer quick, to minimize any possible air bubbles.
Pressurize air bladder to desired psi.
(congrats, you now have a "professional" shock refill)
Should you use nitrogen or shop air? short answer: nitrogen is better, but air is fine if you aren't pro MX or supercross. Nitrogen is more temp and long term pressure holding stable. Regular air is mostly nitrogen already, but contains more moisture and more oxidizer (oxygen). Spend money on nitrogen? Or spend money on replacing a bladder slightly more often? Your choice.
For testing, I'd go with what's convenient, even if you plan to replace with nitrogen. Don't use CO2, because it's corrosive when combined with water/moisture (except a trailside emergency repair).
How to pull the clicker:
Since the stock DR shock lacks any bleeding ports, you should need to pull out the valving/clicker insert. From the factory, they peened the metal around the lip to keep it from ever coming out accidentally. You will need to sand that away a little bit (much like shock and fork valving usually needs the nut ground a little to pull off). I recommend an air sander with little sanding disks, but use what you have. Even once ground/sanded, it will be locktighted in there. use leather gloves in a vice and grip the bladder/expansion chamber (don't grip the main shock cylinder).
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Definitely helps us new guys.
Welcome Troy hope it helps ya enjoy the ride
Hell yaaa 🤘🤘🤘
Jock ({Perth Hills 2023) . Congrats , on your tips/ sensible achievable upgrades . The DR has many fans and not all of us can justify $30 k for a Ducati Dirt Bike or KTM etc . Solid advice , straight to the point and honest, plus good ride clips. As the actress said ( to the Bishop) "Keep It Up"....Ha!! ..I have subscribed...no brainer !!!!
haha Cheers Jock welcome along
Excellent video and amazing riding shots as usual. Ride safe and have fun !
Another great video.
Cheers!
I had a DR. Put 55,000 miles on it. I spent about $2,000 USD on mods to make it more capable. Some mods were worth it others not so much. I really liked the bike. Ended up getting a new KTM690 in 2016 and had to mod the suspension on that too. But in the end I like the KTM690 better, but it’s expensive. However lately I’ve seen several pre-2019 690 used models for sale for not much more than a DR. I can’t understand why people need ride modes on a dual sport bike. I’m fine with just phenomenal horsepower and ABS which is what the pre-2019s offer.
that sounds like the models to grab it ya hfta go orange for sure
I feel that. But i can't lie, that the T7 is a modern bike that gets alot of my attention.
Very Helpful , thanks buddy !
I would prefer fly by wire, no cables to mess with. Don't need ride modes though.
It’s funny seeing some of the comments with different ideas of what mods are essential…I think I’ll trust the guy with videos jumping the DR and hopping logs over the random commenters 😅
Superb video.
After all these years, the old DR is still the best real world adventure bike, once you do the minor suspension work suggested here.
Absolutely
Most important thing I'd like do..is learn to ride like you!! Great work bud!!
Check out my riding hacks videos, like the donut vid and listen to your feet video. Thanks!
A good watch and..... love your practice areas.
Thanks for the video. I have a brand new DR and I'm hoping to get it up to tier two this winter so I can go have some fun this spring!!!
Spin those wrenches you chose wisely
Tier 2.5 for me.
Larger tank so you can stay in the bush.
Cut and weld the pegs for better ergonomic and less leg pump going from sitting to standing..
Also weld on wider grip for the ome pegs.
With riding gear and hydro pack I'm sitting at 107kg so for me springs and damping is the go.
Love your content 👍
Sounds like a kick ass ride, enjoy
Thanks for your advice....newbie to the trail/adv riding & your videos i find honest, straight to the point & no BS..
great inspiration 👍🏼
Cheers Al im glad the vids are coming across that way, thanks for dropping in
Awesome, practical advice. Thanks for the great video. I've been riding snowmobiles (sleds) for 35 years, had a few bikes over the years but only have 2000 miles on the roads. I have wanted an Enduro bike for 30 years and just picked up a DR a few days after the snow fell. I have past tier 2 done, plus a tank, seat, bar riser, cut/weld/relocate the foot pegs and I have not even ridden it yet. 🙄
I know it's going to be a good bike. The simplicity is amazing, there isn't anything on it that's complex. Just a good reliable design.
Wonderful video Skids! Great way to list out the tiers of mods. The DR is quite capable of doing what one would need but there is always room for improvement. Now, if they just sold that mod that would make me ride like Skids and Stuff, I would be in my happy place!
Cheers Mate!!
Thanks DOC!
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Thank You Skids for everything you do! Great points on mods for the Mighty DR650. I just bought another one and I am looking forward to at a lot of the mods you mentioned. Happy Holidays my Friend!
Cheers Mate!
Great video, thanks! Oh, and thanks for saying "the reason is that..." instead of the more common and incorrect "the reason is because..." :D
Wicked video! You ride that 650 like I ride my yz250. Thanks for the honest advice about upgrades, I am thinking about getting a dr650 for my main means of transport to work. The first 5 miles is un- maintained dirt road , and the rest is a combination of suburban and urban. I have had sportbikes in the past and have been riding dirtbikes for 30+ years. This bike has been calling my name for quite some time. cheers!
Merry Christmas dude!
Enjoy your feast Archer
60 seconds in.... already sayin good job m8.. appreciate it..
agreed, motoz desert ht is also the best front here in Colorado as well
Good way of explaining the levels. For better performance I did:
1. Seat
2. Front and rear springs and valves
3. Risers and cables
Not go into the tyres bit yet but agree that it needs better tyres.
She'll be dancing then!
Excellent! Thanks.
This video must be why I am still sitting up at 1.30am.... I have done about 47 more mods to mine, still not finished, still cant ride it 🤣😂😅 I may have gotten carried away
Never! It that NEXT mod that really does the trick
@@SKIDSnSTUFF I have screen shot this comment to show my wife. She wont take my word for it
Wait, has someone actually "finished" the DR650? LOL!😁😁😁
@@doc650adventures whoa........ that is some deep philosophy right there 🤯
@@doc650adventures 😄
i have a 790cc in mine.....love it.
Great video. I'm in the process of looking at the DR and KLR now.. Trying to figure which one I'll get...
I was in the same boat... really glad i chose the DR
DR 👍 🎉
Great video!
Thanks!
Great Pilot ! Congratulaciones !! Saludos desde Mexico !
Hope you’re all good, Ben!
Man that spot at 10:35 looks amazing!
Mighty man Ben will be following T2 JB
Thank you for the video! Great information.
This video has already been added to my motorcycle playlist simply so I can reference the information. I have a moderately modded DR650 in which I modded everything within my understanding. I've done things like: windshields, lowering the pegs, swapping out tires, inline fuel filter, bike armor, handlebars, barkbusters, luggage Etc... but I've been nervous to dive into mechanical changes simply because I lack the understanding of what those changes will accomplish. I don't want to put time and money into something that I don't need for me personally.
That said, I'd love to see an edit of this video where you go further into depth on the reasons for the modifications for the newbies. For me, understanding what most of these mods even are is the difference between knowing what is right and wrong for me.
Anyway, thanks again for the video!
Good idea I will keep it in mind. Thanks for dropping in
Top video mate I got my DR650 with a lot of mods from the previous owner still learning to ride the pig off road as I mostly ride a rocket 3 enjoying your videos have a merry Christmas and a safe new year 👍
Only a few expensive mods on the DR are really "necessary". Some good mods are free or very inexpensive.
- Swap upper chainroller for a setscrew.
- Loctite and safetywire NSU screws.
- Grease.
- Used Suzuki skidplate.
- Cyclegear handguards on sale.
- Adjustable Australian needle, de-snorkel, and extended idle-mix screw.
- 44T rear sprocket.
- Front road-legal knobby and rear, long-wearing semi-knob. Something like Mitas E09F and E07R could take a big DR a lot of places.
- Used 5gal tank.
If you're heavier than 170lb or so, you'll likely want to re-spring the suspension. Better damping is good for hard riding too.
Luggage can be as simple as a Nelson-Rigg tankbag and rackless Giant Loop, Green Chile, or Mosko-Moto rear luggage.
I like having a flush taillight too. The North American taillight falls apart.
Many people like an upgraded seat, but I'm used to the stocker. I've even shaved one 2". I don't seem to need a windscreen either, but some people make their own for cheap.
Shaving weight can be good too, like removing helmet lock, removing passenger pegs, tail-tidy, swapping mirrors, swapping fork spacers, swapping signals, swapping reflectors, swapping to titanium/aluminum muff, swapping to lithium battery, etc.
I agree 100%. Great info mate! Thanks!
You bet!
Have done the front spring upgrade and to coin a phrase it's a game changer. Thanks for the heads up on the front tyre, that's been the bane of my existence for so long, I'll consider giving it a try . Cheers 🍻
I'm confident you will love the tyre, enjoy
Awesome info.👌🤟
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the summary, great content. I look forward to more of your work.
Thanks Kev, plenty of other vids in our back catalogue that may interest ya
Onya Ben. Cheers and merry Christmas buddy.
Another excellent video, thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it
Great vid mate, cheers! And Happy New Trails to you in 2023 ❤️🔥✌️
Cheers Ade enjoy the shreds
Love the info mate. Thanks for sharing
Excellent video mate! Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
Solid advice here! Also this guy proves that it's the rider, not the bike.
I've had my DR for 7+ years, so it's got substantial mods. Level 3 since I enjoy turning a wrench for a measurable gain.
As stated here, getting into the level 2 should keep you happy.
Suspension and tires first. Especially if you're a bigger guy.
Thanks enjoy the shred sled!
Thanks!
Cheers Rob ya bloody legend, Ill convert that into skids and videos, thanks alot!
Perfect video. Gave me great ideas for my DR. Especially in the suspension parts
Suspension makes a huge difference for sure. The DR is so versatile, it is such a great do all bike!
Cheers!
Great to hear it's helpful, cheers
Side stand safety switch mod done.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Man you have that DR650 dialed in. Seriously makes me want one now. I went from riding a drz400 to testing a stock dr650 around the block. I ultimately got a xr650r but it’s tall. I’m 5’7” I wasn’t sold on the DR650 for some reason. Seeing you thrash around on that thing is legit. It’s a different bike. I may have to get one here real soon and add your mods to it.
With some easy tweaks the stock DR could ride well for someone 5' 7 if you're not too stout. Turn in the rear comp, add some fork preload and I'm pretty happy on a stock DR for most regular riding
I’m 5’8” and rode my DR like a dirt bike. It just takes practice. Get a good seat, fix the fueling and exhaust, tune the suspension, replace the stock bars and armor the whole thing. Then set it up with good knobbies and go wring it out on the dirt roads.
Tier 2 muffler bonus, sheds about 12 pounds which helps that soft rear spring.
Exactly, helps get that weight off the back end!
0:06 oh lord
I'm a relatively new rider. I ride a old nx650 Honda Dominator from 93. If you can do silly jumps like that on your dr650, I can probably do it too on my bike. With a lot of practice. And that both scares me and excites me. These old machines really do everything.
I find myself often looking for a newer machine, but I can never justify a purchase when my old bike seem to handle abuse like no new machine.
So changing this mods, in the end I will have your ridding skills levels, right? 😅
Nice... Eheh...
Great video man.. it is a joy seeing your channel.
Cheer's from Portugal. 🇵🇹
I'm pretty sure it works like that yeh! Enjoy the shred 😀
Great video! I’d suggest pre-tier 1 - bigger fuel tank!
Definitely , but not a Performance mod as such.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF fair point! Greetings from NZ, 100,000km DR owner!🤩
Excellent vid ! Thanks!
Nice video, good riding!
Thanks for the common sense plan. You clearly ride the bike more that you read other people's postings. I pretty much followed the same plan, Racetech shock rebuild, new front springs and Gold Valves, D606 and Scorpion Rally. I know enough about carbs not to cut the stocker, and there's no way to make a DR into a KTM. What I want to know: What pannier rack do you have or recommend?
i believe its the Barrett rack
hey bro! it's a great video! i just got a dr 650 and the way your bike performs is amazing...!!!
Could you recommend brands or links where you can get the improvements of T1 and T2.
I'm from Mexico and getting the improvements here is a headache! hahaha.
I liked your video!!! keep it up bro!
The brand matters very little in most cases. I suggest watching the vid again all the info is there
Great video, thanks for the info. You’ve helped me with understanding what I need to do with my suspension, cheers!
That's awesome cheers for stopping in
I have done a lot of mods but for me the ProCycle carb kit was the biggest improvement. I'd still like a Pumper carb because I still feel a slight delay in response but I'll probably ignore it since I won't be doing any racing. 😆
One of the most information relevant/pack dr vid ever. You are quite the DrKnight ! So many others are just about buying stuff for the sake of ? I do have a question... I want to swap to a 44 from the 42 rear sprocket. Can I still run the stock chain ? "slam the wheel" ?
That's right yep the stock chain length slams the wheel when ya go to 44T I should have made that more clear. Thanks for the kind words 😀
Very good advise men thank you
No worries
Another great mod is to set the bars forward with forward offset riser. This places the bars in line with the forks for better weighting and feel in addition to being much more comfortable for a taller rider, especially when standing. Even Skids seems to have some hunch when riding.
Can work for taller riders. I've tried risers, installed by previous owner, was a Terrible mod for me, feels so disconnected from the bike
@@SKIDSnSTUFF It's the forward set that matters more than the rise. If u look where the bar clamps are mounted on the triple clamps u can see there is also a rearward angle offset, meaning risers alone will set the bars even closer to the rider making for a cramped position. You need a forward set to compensate for this.
For me being 6'2 it is definitely an essential mod and also improved front end feel into the bargain.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF similar conclusion coming from me (an offroad noob) and my skilled MX friend. The raised bars made the stance way too upright. It was more work to get weight forward when needed, and it was causing a lot of arm pump even for my experienced friend.
Simply ripping off the riser and going to stock bar height make cornering and taking whoops way easier and less jarring.
People should watch Bret Tkacs 2 videos on bar risers for short people and tall rider tips.
good advise ben. as usual
Thanks for checking it out Neil
How are the fork preload caps going , would be cool to see an update on them . Merry Christmas mate
Was suppose to be this video, will be the next!
Well said, though I'd personally put the airbox mods & _basic_ rejet (no modding) in the next to free improvements section.
I've taken all my _street bikes_ offroad and even jumped them on small jumps. Ideal? No. And I've ridden MX and trail bikes of various price ranges.
*So the following is coming from a "use what you've got" but also "why settle, when you can make it better cheaply" perspective.*
My DR is in the early stage 2 to stage 3 range: some improvements, but also inadequate suspension performance, awaiting a major improvement via front end swap (most of the parts already in hand)
Bought the bike from someone with similar weight and height.
It came with nicer pegs and bars (raised).
TM40 pumper carb (procycle version, already jetted)
*It was resprung and had intiminators, "the best suspension you can buy"... right.* (more below, but In reality it was street soft with _really bad_ rebound control)
Every spring is just below the softest online recommendations I could find.
The rear was also sprung too soft and had a cogent improved shock (stock with rebound and better shim stacks) From testing, he must have asked for street soft, as I can't imagine cogent being so incompetent as making their upgraded shock that inadequately dampened without being requested to do so. (anyone else with want to chime in with their experience?)
On the street, it was fine. Well mannered. Not as nice as my cheap ninja 300, but not bad... but I had my suspicions.
*Offroad, it was so bad - it quickly beat up me and my MX skilled rider friend.* It pogo'd violently from end to end, each bad response getting thrown into the other misbehaving end. Lack of rebound damping meant neither end gripped well (not a tire fault). Cornering was about planning how much you expected the front end to keep slipping wide. *My streetbike fronts grip better than that!*
I've done the next to free mods, including the more skilled tinkering ones: thicker oils both ends (shock rebuild) and increased level in the front. Added a much bigger rear sprocket (so I wouldn't need clutch to make it go less than 10mph offroad). All that made it _drivable_ offroad, but still only just getting there. The front end is only just leaving the excessive rebound and starting to grip. Because the springs are too soft, it is a compromise between _how much_ to reduce collapsing and how harsh can be tolerated for the little bumps. Ridable, capable of some rough offroad, but not ideal.
*Those intiminators are not a drop inmod !* Oh, they claim to be - but then *they hose your rebound damping* to pretend they are. This is horrible offroad. Not only do they perform inadequate in compression offroad, but the DR already starts a bit under-damped in rebound. Intiminators require even thinner oil, making that far worse: collapsing + pogo'ing.
Having ridden and adjusted my friends MX bikes, I've felt 1st hand how much difference rebound settings make. *Noob or not, it's easy to feel mushy going wide vs cuts a line right where you put it.*
I was already looking at needing springs, and needing (proper) emulators. And that would leave me opening shocks to tune rebound.
I found an RMZ450 front end for less than $300, which comes with comp & reb clickers and is more responsive to valving changes. I'd consider that a bargain for the massive improvement it's expected to make.
I'm an engineer and mechanic. I also have a little cnc router, so I can make some parts at home. This is a more approachable mod for me than for most. I've also got other bikes and friend's bikes I can ride, so I'm not missing much while it's down.
*I wouldn't recommend this route for someone new to wrenching or someone who wants a quick drop in solution.*
Merry Xmas brother.
Thanks Daniel have a good one
WOW
Nice work ‼️
Thanks SKIDS 😎 🎄 💚 🤘🏻
Cheers Scotty!
Awesome, thanks!
Welcome, thanks for watching
Cool thanks.
Well done, Thank You What racks do you have mounted...I'd like something similar to keep my soft saddlebags in place.
Pretty sure they are the Barrett racks, we're on the bike already when I bought it. Plenty of similar options out there
Any tips fpr the older doctors... like my 1985 DR600?
Awesome video, made some notes for future mods and have my bike booked in to get the front springs done. Any handlebar recommendations? 5ft 10 do I need risers, feel like I’m riding with my fingertips. Cheers.
Same height as me. My DR originally came with risers and I ditched them for stock mounts... much better for me, feel a lot more connected to the front end now.
I do run lowered pegs though which I can highly recommend other than have to be really careful in single trail to not smash my feet.
I just run the cheapest handlebars I could find after bending the stock bars.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF thanks mate, yeah risers seem quite topical across the forums, left me pretty confused, I’ll give the pegs a go first. Thanks again and Merry Xmas.
Update- suspension done, 44 tooth sprocket done, feels like a different bike. 🙌
Hi could you recommend a shock valve thanks
@@clivegroos9279 tekniks does a good job if you're in Australia
Hey Ben, love the vids they've been a massive help. So if your rocking 15/44 with a 525 chain, whats the link count on that? Google reckons OEM is 110 but would I be alright with a 120link with a slammed rear like yours?
stock length chain gives slammed rear with 15/44. but if i was to do it again i would go 14/42 gearing for a slightly longer rear and set-up the bike around that. while i like the responsiveness of the slammed rear end, a longer rear give better action on whoops and sharp hits.
Have you tried the motoz dual venture front tire or you still prefer the desert ht?
for my use Desert HT all the way but the Dualventure looks good for more road use
Hey mate vids are 👌 did you do something with your carb slide pin??If your ever in kununurra drop me a line.
Stock carby
I did the modification of the fuel air screw.... the screw fell out. !!! I have a new one ordered. How can I prevent this from happening ?
You must have screwed it out way too far. Screw it all the way on first until it just bottoms out. Then come out 1 3/4 or 2 turns
comment just cause hopefully it helps, good vid
Cheers legend it def helps 🙂
Please advise on what I should do with my stock foot pegs? Also should I change the gear lever from rubberish to steel?
I like the stock gear lever.
Some people like to run lower footpegs, mine are lower, but I've never tried stock. I'd think you would atleast need to remove the stock foot pegs rubber mounting system.
What do you think are the best ADV boots as in best ankle protection. Am searching for a DR, there are quite a few about, some with high kilometeres some with low, your opinion on a high kilometre or older DR. Thanks.
I would go with ffrc plex valves for the forks instead of springs, they basically turn it into a modern cartridge fork, I wouldn't bother with fork springs unless you're over 100kg, cutting open the top of the airbox and rejetting the carb give great results for cheap, the pumper carb basically gives it the throttle response of an injected bike.
Glad that works for ya. It's all in your head though
@@SKIDSnSTUFF What is?
Yeah mods sargent seat is a must, bar risers and fat bars, storm barbusters ,slim screen ,30 ltr tank full staintune exhaust, rejet stock caby, heavier front springs (no emulators) cut and drilled front guard for more air flow cut at least 50 + mill off front and drilled right back side for oil cooler,force accessories bash plate (the best choice) with over sized holes for cooling ,yz pegs lowered, centre stand for lubing chain and punctures ,racks and soft bags ,15/45 gearing, head light cover ,last but not l fitted a Elka rear shock with external preload adjuster definitely a great investment they don't use the preload adjuster any more l can adjust high and low speed comp on the fly are yes that's while lm riding at speed (open desert)all these mods cost me approximately 5k the bike has 43k on it and lm selling it to buy a KTM 890 as l need more road use
Do you still have the plastic skid plate? I’m thinking about buying the one you have. Or is it better a metal one? I think plastic would be lighter?
Yep still doing the job just dandy. Definitely the way to go
@@SKIDSnSTUFF thank you 🤜🤛
What is the tank??? Wicked
Safari. Holds about 35ltrs
So, as far as the carb goes, just turn out the air fuel mixture screw 1 3/4 turns? Does this take out the initial stumble at roll on?
Gonna depend on weather and altitude. i have the screw set at about 2 turns out, in summer the airbox snorkel is out whereas in winter I didnt need it out. I dont experience any off idle stumble this way
What's your opinion on the front brake master cylinder performance?
On my previous DR the front brake needed servicing so it wasnt so flash but on the current bike it work fine for normal riding.
My DR650 is a fantastic value adventure bike and a great basic trail bike. That's why I chose it over the rest. You must share genes with superman if you can ride it like in your video. It is far too heavy overall, top heavy, high seated and high geared for me to ride it like that. Also the rear tire is far too small for a bike this size. It is a huge effort to pick it up when I inevitably lose traction, overbalance and topple over, particularly with a full 20L tank. I am 6'1" and 86kg. I have dropped it several times overbalancing just getting on and off of it stationary. My 1981 IT465 is a far more capable and enjoyable bike to ride off road as it is not effected by these problems. My top mod is the seat. There aren't strong enough swear words to describe the standard seat. Next is the riding position. Two inch lowered pegs and moving the bars both up and forward 2 inches transformed the bike for sitting and standing. Dropping a tooth on the counter sprocket is great. Even with mid range after market springs the forks are still soft and comfortable. Fork cartridge emulators soften up high speed compression dampening on rocks and sharp edges but otherwise you don't need them. I agree you should re-valve the rear shock as there is no dampening to speak of. The standard engine is powerful and very quiet. I have modified the airbox and jetting but the benefits are small for the extra induction noise. The close fitting seat and obstructive cabling and pipes limits the amount of intake air so there is not much benefit cutting holes in the top of the airbox.
You are so lucky this bike is still legal. In Europe the emissions don't allow to buy a new one. We are stucked with the old ones.
Glad I live in America just bought a new one 2 days ago.
@@eugenebarron692 God bless America. I am thinking about buying one and change the VIN number lol
As been said previously - great vid, thanks! You ve mentioned your weight, but how tall are you? Have had a transalp 700va, would love to have similar power off road with the dr650, but it looks small for 1.85m person, hence constantly looking at drz. Can a higher concept seat, risers or other mods improve the problem?
I would think with those mods and some low pegs could open the cockpit up and have ya feeling pretty comfortable.
I'm around 177
Hey Ben. Awesome vid as always. I'm on my way to completing tier 1 and 2. I have the Motoz desert front also, it's bloody amazing off-road but I'm finding it wobbles a lot at 100km+. Did you find it was like this also ? I only have a couple of hundred K on them. Keep the vids coming
I don't notice that at all... if you not yet done tier 2 suspension then you will find what you seek there, it will be a front/rear bike balance issue.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF cool man. I thought that may be the case. Onto the next mod 💪 thanks for the quick reply
@@SKIDSnSTUFF And Merry Christmas ya legend 🎄
No re-jet the carb?
Nar I find it's fine
XR650l vs DR650 for a taller rider's adventure bike build?
Seems fairly obvious. The XR is a taller bike to begin with. At least it was for many years. I have not kept up with recent model changes.
I'd put the tm40 in tier 2 it just responds way faster it's easter to adjust and it doesn't seem to clog as much after it's been sitting
Does the Safari fuel tank allow space for crashbars? Or is it crash resistant?
Don't need crash bars