Fany enough I had an exact fuel filter failed on me today, it had some spongy stuff in that designated and twice blocked my carb screen on a 051 but still pulled. Great video.
Great m-tronic info👍🏻 one would think all oilers would be left for more right for less! Modded a few stingy stihl oilers over the years. A 660 shouldn't have issues keeping a 28" bar oiled😅
I put air filters in the ultrasonic cleaner with a 70/30 mix of water and simple green. 10 minutes usually does the trick. Gently blow out (from inside out) with air and set the filter in front of a heater or near a wood stove to fully dry. That’s the best way I’ve found to clean them and doesn’t seem to impact longevity as far as I can tell.
Yes, there was a pre-filter for the original HD filter that had a paper type filter media. The newer HD2 filters have a woven synthetic material and don't come with a pre-filter from the factory. Maybe they should. Might help keep the chips and dust out of the pleats.
Nice video. I like my chain soaking with oil. Bar oil is cheap insurance. Any brand will work fine. It’s all 30 wgt napthenic or 20 wgt if winter grades.
Besides bars being $$$$$ nowadays, I was just in my local dealer and he was out of 20" bars, both "E" and "ES". Said they were on back order. Seems the bars have been in tight supply around here for the last 6 months or so.
Richard, I'm sure there's numerous videos, but I'd rather ask you. I have a stihl 170 that if I leave bar oil in the saw it leaks pretty bad. What's the fix for that problem? Thanks for all the great videos.
Just got a quick question for ya Richard. I was cutting yesterday with my 462 and noticed I was missing two of the top cover quarter turn fasteners. Are there any tricks to replacing them or do the replacements just pop back in the metal sleeve in the cover? Never had this issue before, must not have locked them back down. thank you
I know this is going to sound silly, Check the price for a whole new top cover (shroud). The replacement twist lock fasteners are curiously expensive. To answer your question, yes, they snap in when you push down on them.
@@richardflagg3084 Will do, not surprised I ran into the same thing on a F-150 under carriage shield. Two quarter turn screws that failed from corrosion, $50, no thanks Ford. I will check on a new top cover, to bad the saw only has about 10-12 tanks under it's belt. Thanks for the reply and all the great content.
I had an unpleasant exchange with a self proclaimed industry expert who vehemently denied that Stihl ultra had anything to do with my personal experience seeing this glazing on the saws coming across my bench. After enough back and forth I eventually banned him from our page. Stihl is absolutely terrible stuff and I find it cringeworthy that they feel it's ok to push on their customers.
Richard what was the purpose of the roll pin? Why did stihl put the roll pin knowing they don’t allow full range on the bar oil. I done this to my 661 oils a lot better now but I never understood why stihl would do this only for the customer to pound the toll pin in
Am a new subscriber, enjoy all your videos, mainly for educational purposes. I have a Ms 194 Ms 261, two 460's and a new 661 cm, I run all my saws hard full tilt all the time. Very diligent on maintenance, cleaning and the best non ethanol fuel I can get. Not a fan of Stihl ultra, always ran orange bottle hp, never no issues, my question is, is the something better I should be running, don't know enough about Shaffer or amsoil to switch, any input would be helpful. Thanks
Amsoil Saber is the best two stroke oil I've seen in long term heavy use. I don't like it at 80:1 though. It burns super clean at 40 or 50:1 and leaves a great film of oil on everything. Buy it by the quart and it's reasonably priced as well if you can find it local.
After switching to amsoil at 32:1 , the 2 460's like it, with good film on piston, the 193 like the mix, but here's my problem, the m tronic 261 is burning very clean, but no oil residue on the piston at all, dry as bone, I mean no oil left on piston at all, are these moronic saws compensating for a fatter oil mix with more fuel washing the piston off... Stumped, going to try old still hp oil next to see if I can get a film left on piston.
@@fredbuck8800 Keep using the Saber. Hp is a decent oil but not near the oil Saber is. Mtronic tunes by heat and RPM. Try a fresh fuel filter and flush the tank out if there is debris in the tank.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better oil than Saber. Absolutely nothing wrong with any of the Echo oils but Saber at normal ratios (40:1-50:1) is hard to beat.
@@richardflagg3084 awesome! I learned early on I liked the amsoil better. I had problems with pre ignition and spark plug fowling with the ultra and I switched. Especially in my trimmers and blowers. My chainsaws run better with the saber in my opinion. Every now and then I’ll run a mix of 80:1 through them just to help get some carbon out. What are your opinions on ms194t vs ms201t. I have a 261,034,461, and an echo cs-360t. I was hoping to get something lighter and cheaper than the 201t
@@ryanmaitland1230 The 194 with a timing advance and muffler mod is just ok. If you're serious, get a 201TC, muffler mod it and you'll be much happier even with the significant price difference. Better bar and chain, carburetor, and overall construction, ease of service etc.
Yea not turned up .tapped in .you got best videos when I bought my 462 s first thing i did .jack showed me his video on that .these saws don't like to oil. I drill out the light bars with diamond bit on dremel .and realy still don't oil enough truthfully
JuSt BuY tHe bIggEr oiL pUmP! I have been told buy a 462 and buy a 462 west coast oil pump so it will oil enough out of the box. But that puts the saw within spitting distance pricewise of the bigger saws. If echo can shave some weight off the 7310 I won't go stihl on the big saws either, just buy a ported 7310. The 661 oils a 24 ok.
Yea I like not dealing with tuning hear in mountains it's 10 degrees one day and 90 next and elevation of about 4000 ft.up down. I just drill holes out and tap oil pin.was consider ing getting bigger oiler .not sure if u can maybe on 462.i mix my bar oil or believe it or not the lowes bar oil that say s just bat chain oil in white jug oils best beats the expensive bar oil. Or just mix it.i
Richard can I ask you, do you think hp super is better quality than hp ultra? I use the European oil while I know there are some differences between the oil although I don't know what they are. Super is fd rated and ultra is fb. I've had many arguments with stihl about this but they maintain that ultra is their highest quality engine fully synthetic engine oil. I think ultra is being pushed for environmental reasons, emissions and biodegradable etc .. Im genuinely interested in your opinion. Greetings from Ireland.
Yes. Ultra is more environmentally friendly and less toxic to the user. I haven't used Super as it's not available in the US, but it should have a better detergent package than the Ultra and burn cleaner because it carries the FD rating. I don't know why they haven't updated the formula like other brands have. There are a lot of ester based oils that will meet the latest standards. Excellent question.
@@richardflagg3084 there is the other argument then about super being semi synthetic while ultra is fully synthetic .. would the fd rated oil still be better than the fb given its only semi synthetic?
@@6900pilot The JASO rating is blind to the content of the oil. It's only scored on a series of standardized performance tests. The oil must maintain the same high level of lubricity, but must burn cleaner, longer to meet the highest rating of FD. It's a no loose situation to upgrade to a top tier oil regardless of manufacturer.
OK I’m convinced to change from the pond water over to red armor and I guess I should go to 40 to 1 from 50 to 1 for the crankshaft lubrication am I correct in saying this?
I switched over to 42.5:1 some years ago in my various 50:1 “required” equipment. I find I get a bit more smoke at idle but so far it has not caused any apparent problems. I run my stuff a good number of hours. I’ve never used Stihl Ultra so there’s that too.
Here's my opinion from learning from. You gear heads and just experience. The new stihl saws rear handle pro that is ,if your going to buy any of them they NEED ,,suspension upgrade doggs kit.and west coast oil filters and a bark box.plus the oiler tapped out with a punch in I mean.these are a must of you want quality saws.other wise buy different brands because they are not the same without those things .done.ans if you run stihl light bars better dremel thar oiler holes out on bars as well .they don't oil enough. So any saw you buy better becready to spend exctra 250 300 on those after market parts. I wouldn't run a stock stihl saw without the above mention. 462 is 1500 to 1600 bucks so may as well make about 2000 and save future pain.and have run rite..especially if you have big crew no way I would give them that kinda saw to run without those things.thanks Richard for the gas filter trick .I just put new sproket and needle bearing greased it.and plugs. But didn't change gas filter because that orange pre filter doesn't look bad .I did buy one though and will be swapping it ..thanks
Rich nice tips on the recallibration. Great info on the oils and filters. 👍👍
Thanks for the vid. I like your fuel line grabber. I still love these ultra videos hahah, keep ‘em coming
Going back to work u
Lunch time saw your videos pop up.nice out today..thanks
Fany enough I had an exact fuel filter failed on me today, it had some spongy stuff in that designated and twice blocked my carb screen on a 051 but still pulled. Great video.
Thanks, Richard!
Great video, useful information. Thank you.
Great m-tronic info👍🏻 one would think all oilers would be left for more right for less! Modded a few stingy stihl oilers over the years. A 660 shouldn't have issues keeping a 28" bar oiled😅
Thanks for the video! 👍
I run the stokel stack(west coast saw) foam filter's and they work great
And I cut a lot of dead pine and it is really hard on filters
Great Video!
Thank you Tim
Hell yea cool 😎, thanks !
I put air filters in the ultrasonic cleaner with a 70/30 mix of water and simple green. 10 minutes usually does the trick. Gently blow out (from inside out) with air and set the filter in front of a heater or near a wood stove to fully dry. That’s the best way I’ve found to clean them and doesn’t seem to impact longevity as far as I can tell.
Stihl also has a pre filter for these air filters. I have them on my saws that have these types of filters.
Yes, there was a pre-filter for the original HD filter that had a paper type filter media. The newer HD2 filters have a woven synthetic material and don't come with a pre-filter from the factory. Maybe they should. Might help keep the chips and dust out of the pleats.
Nice video. I like my chain soaking with oil. Bar oil is cheap insurance. Any brand will work fine. It’s all 30 wgt napthenic or 20 wgt if winter grades.
Besides bars being $$$$$ nowadays, I was just in my local dealer and he was out of 20" bars, both "E" and "ES". Said they were on back order. Seems the bars have been in tight supply around here for the last 6 months or so.
They know they can sell more bar and chains if theyre stingy on the oil! In reality, I bet it has to do with emissions.
Man that stuff..had me rolling 🤣..
Richard, I'm sure there's numerous videos, but I'd rather ask you. I have a stihl 170 that if I leave bar oil in the saw it leaks pretty bad. What's the fix for that problem? Thanks for all the great videos.
It may be a bad oil pick up line that goes to the oil pump or a failed tank vent. Clean it up really good and track down the leak.
👍👍 bagus
The bar and chain (a little l) also.
Just got a quick question for ya Richard. I was cutting yesterday with my 462 and noticed I was missing two of the top cover quarter turn fasteners. Are there any tricks to replacing them or do the replacements just pop back in the metal sleeve in the cover? Never had this issue before, must not have locked them back down. thank you
I know this is going to sound silly, Check the price for a whole new top cover (shroud). The replacement twist lock fasteners are curiously expensive. To answer your question, yes, they snap in when you push down on them.
@@richardflagg3084 Will do, not surprised I ran into the same thing on a F-150 under carriage shield. Two quarter turn screws that failed from corrosion, $50, no thanks Ford. I will check on a new top cover, to bad the saw only has about 10-12 tanks under it's belt. Thanks for the reply and all the great content.
I had an unpleasant exchange with a self proclaimed industry expert who vehemently denied that Stihl ultra had anything to do with my personal experience seeing this glazing on the saws coming across my bench. After enough back and forth I eventually banned him from our page. Stihl is absolutely terrible stuff and I find it cringeworthy that they feel it's ok to push on their customers.
Richard what was the purpose of the roll pin? Why did stihl put the roll pin knowing they don’t allow full range on the bar oil. I done this to my 661 oils a lot better now but I never understood why stihl would do this only for the customer to pound the toll pin in
In all seriousness, e-p-a emissions.
Am a new subscriber, enjoy all your videos, mainly for educational purposes. I have a Ms 194 Ms 261, two 460's and a new 661 cm, I run all my saws hard full tilt all the time. Very diligent on maintenance, cleaning and the best non ethanol fuel I can get. Not a fan of Stihl ultra, always ran orange bottle hp, never no issues, my question is, is the something better I should be running, don't know enough about Shaffer or amsoil to switch, any input would be helpful. Thanks
Amsoil Saber is the best two stroke oil I've seen in long term heavy use. I don't like it at 80:1 though. It burns super clean at 40 or 50:1 and leaves a great film of oil on everything. Buy it by the quart and it's reasonably priced as well if you can find it local.
After switching to amsoil at 32:1 , the 2 460's like it, with good film on piston, the 193 like the mix, but here's my problem, the m tronic 261 is burning very clean, but no oil residue on the piston at all, dry as bone, I mean no oil left on piston at all, are these moronic saws compensating for a fatter oil mix with more fuel washing the piston off... Stumped, going to try old still hp oil next to see if I can get a film left on piston.
@@fredbuck8800 Keep using the Saber. Hp is a decent oil but not near the oil Saber is. Mtronic tunes by heat and RPM. Try a fresh fuel filter and flush the tank out if there is debris in the tank.
The 261 only has 4 tanks of fuel through it, but I might have found a leaky de-comp valve, oily around the valve, I do like the sabre.
Appreciate your insight on small issues, I seem to get more useful info out of your experience then from my local Stihl dealer. Thank you again.
What are your opinions on saber vs echo oils, I personally run saber and I really like it. At a 45:1
You'd be hard pressed to find a better oil than Saber. Absolutely nothing wrong with any of the Echo oils but Saber at normal ratios (40:1-50:1) is hard to beat.
@@richardflagg3084 awesome! I learned early on I liked the amsoil better. I had problems with pre ignition and spark plug fowling with the ultra and I switched. Especially in my trimmers and blowers. My chainsaws run better with the saber in my opinion. Every now and then I’ll run a mix of 80:1 through them just to help get some carbon out. What are your opinions on ms194t vs ms201t. I have a 261,034,461, and an echo cs-360t. I was hoping to get something lighter and cheaper than the 201t
@@ryanmaitland1230 The 194 with a timing advance and muffler mod is just ok. If you're serious, get a 201TC, muffler mod it and you'll be much happier even with the significant price difference.
Better bar and chain, carburetor, and overall construction, ease of service etc.
Yea not turned up .tapped in .you got best videos when I bought my 462 s first thing i did .jack showed me his video on that .these saws don't like to oil. I drill out the light bars with diamond bit on dremel .and realy still don't oil enough truthfully
JuSt BuY tHe bIggEr oiL pUmP! I have been told buy a 462 and buy a 462 west coast oil pump so it will oil enough out of the box. But that puts the saw within spitting distance pricewise of the bigger saws. If echo can shave some weight off the 7310 I won't go stihl on the big saws either, just buy a ported 7310. The 661 oils a 24 ok.
Yea I like not dealing with tuning hear in mountains it's 10 degrees one day and 90 next and elevation of about 4000 ft.up down. I just drill holes out and tap oil pin.was consider ing getting bigger oiler .not sure if u can maybe on 462.i mix my bar oil or believe it or not the lowes bar oil that say s just bat chain oil in white jug oils best beats the expensive bar oil. Or just mix it.i
That air filter for commercial use should be MONTHLY. Spark plug and fuel filter also!
Richard can I ask you, do you think hp super is better quality than hp ultra? I use the European oil while I know there are some differences between the oil although I don't know what they are. Super is fd rated and ultra is fb. I've had many arguments with stihl about this but they maintain that ultra is their highest quality engine fully synthetic engine oil. I think ultra is being pushed for environmental reasons, emissions and biodegradable etc .. Im genuinely interested in your opinion. Greetings from Ireland.
Yes. Ultra is more environmentally friendly and less toxic to the user. I haven't used Super as it's not available in the US, but it should have a better detergent package than the Ultra and burn cleaner because it carries the FD rating. I don't know why they haven't updated the formula like other brands have. There are a lot of ester based oils that will meet the latest standards. Excellent question.
@Richard Flagg thank you much appreciated liked and subscribed.. whats more, hp super has a fuel stabilizer in it as an extra bonus. 👍🏻
@@richardflagg3084 there is the other argument then about super being semi synthetic while ultra is fully synthetic .. would the fd rated oil still be better than the fb given its only semi synthetic?
@@6900pilot The JASO rating is blind to the content of the oil. It's only scored on a series of standardized performance tests. The oil must maintain the same high level of lubricity, but must burn cleaner, longer to meet the highest rating of FD. It's a no loose situation to upgrade to a top tier oil regardless of manufacturer.
@@6900pilot My Stihl rep told me they removed the fuel stabilizer from the Ultra formula. Why, I have no clue.
OK I’m convinced to change from the pond water over to red armor and I guess I should go to 40 to 1 from 50 to 1 for the crankshaft lubrication am I correct in saying this?
Correct!!
I switched over to 42.5:1 some years ago in my various 50:1 “required” equipment. I find I get a bit more smoke at idle but so far it has not caused any apparent problems. I run my stuff a good number of hours. I’ve never used Stihl Ultra so there’s that too.
Spot on Sir!
I switched from Ultra 50:1 to 40:1 Red Armor this fall and all my saws are running great.
@@danclas5983 Smells better too! 😎
Wait until you get to 70 and get cataracts. I have them on both eyes.
I punch my oiler pins before I cut the 1st piece of wood
That is a well used 462.
Two years of hard commercial work. Some guys take better care of their equipment, some worse. Lol
@@richardflagg3084 I’d say that’s not even too bad for 2 years
@@richardflagg3084 Did you get the hours? Guessing that is a mk1 462
@@TheEtpulsar I did not plug it in.
Here's my opinion from learning from. You gear heads and just experience. The new stihl saws rear handle pro that is ,if your going to buy any of them they NEED ,,suspension upgrade doggs kit.and west coast oil filters and a bark box.plus the oiler tapped out with a punch in I mean.these are a must of you want quality saws.other wise buy different brands because they are not the same without those things .done.ans if you run stihl light bars better dremel thar oiler holes out on bars as well .they don't oil enough. So any saw you buy better becready to spend exctra 250 300 on those after market parts. I wouldn't run a stock stihl saw without the above mention. 462 is 1500 to 1600 bucks so may as well make about 2000 and save future pain.and have run rite..especially if you have big crew no way I would give them that kinda saw to run without those things.thanks Richard for the gas filter trick .I just put new sproket and needle bearing greased it.and plugs. But didn't change gas filter because that orange pre filter doesn't look bad .I did buy one though and will be swapping it ..thanks